Oz Clarke Wine A–Z

VINTAGE CHARTS

For selected older vintages, refer to the charts here.

Grand old Grenache vines, their leaves just turning autumnal gold, caught at sunset in the Barossa Valley, South Australia.

CONTENTS

Introduction

Some of My Favourites

Today’s Wine Styles

How to Use This Book

A–Z OF WINES, PRODUCERS, GRAPES & WINE REGIONS

Good Matches: Food and Wine

Matching Wine and Food

Making the Most of Wine

Glossary of Wine Terms

Who Owns What

Index of Producers

Acknowledgments

INTRODUCTION

Now, please don’t say you haven’t noticed it. I’m talking about the weather. Wherever you live, whatever you do, you must have noticed the weather is changing. And if you’re a wine producer, you must be scratching your head and thinking: how can I plan ahead, how can I calculate risks and benefits, how can I invest, and what must I invest in? – what grape varieties, which areas of the planet, what styles of wine will I be able to make? – does it all have to change, will it change for good?

What do you do if you’re a Californian wine producer? The weather is getting warmer, but there’s less and less water available to irrigate your crops. The snow in the Sierra Nevada mountains is crucial in supplying the river flow that feeds your irrigation pumps. Yet you’re down to 20% of the historic snow pack. The last three years have been the driest on record. If you water your garden, you can be fined $500. And if Los Angeles is running out of water – they’ve just banned restaurants from offering the usual free glass of water with meals unless you request it – how long are they going to let you irrigate your vines before the sheriff knocks on your door with a summons? Some vineyards don’t need to be told. Their irrigation dams are already dry – and that’s Napa and Sonoma I’m talking about. Not the blistering Central Valley.

It’s not just California. Some of Chile’s most exciting wines have come from northern vineyards planted in the arid but wind-cooled river valleys up toward the Atacama Desert. Limarí has established itself as one of Chile’s leading regions. But it’s bone dry. If the river flow fails, the vineyards fail, and the snowmelt in the Andes is dwindling. And that means there is less and less of the water that makes vineyards possible in places like Elqui, Huasco and Limarí. And if Argentina thinks it will be any luckier – it won’t be. Australia is regularly struggling with 40°C days during the ripening season. A few days of that heat, and the grapes on the vine can never fully recover their poise and balance. The great mining centre of Broken Hill, New South Wales, is literally running out of water as its expertly managed system of water conservation has quite simply failed. Reservoirs emptying in Broken Hill might not seem to be relevant to Australian wine. Tell that to worried growers in the Riverina and the Riverland, where most of Australia’s commercial grapes are grown.

Wine producers in many parts of the world are worried by the lack of rainfall in their vineyards, none more so than those in northern Chile. This is a dry lake, high in the Elqui Valley, which would normally be full of meltwater from the Andes.

And the New Zealanders can’t snigger behind their hands at the Aussie’s misfortune either. New Zealand got hit by drought in 2015. New Zealand! Cool, green, showery New Zealand! They had to turn the irrigation systems off in Marlborough because the usually powerful Wairau River aquifer was running out of puff and they, literally, had no idea what to do – they’d never had a drought before. At least there it just means that everybody had a bit of a panic but then produced a much reduced crop, bringing supply shortages rather than devastation – but what if it happens next year? And next?

So has Europe been any luckier? Depends where you live. South-east Spain was roasted by drought and heatwaves in 2014. Don’t expect too much joy from their wines. France had its warmest year ever. It was on the front pages of all its newspapers – except that the heat came in great swathes, but not always when it was wanted, like in the summer – August was pretty dismal. Then a record-dry September and most of October saved an awful lot of growers, but that’s if their grapes weren’t attacked by a new pest – a Japanese fruit fly called Drosophila suzukii – you couldn’t make it up! – and they produced some pretty decent wine. But the further north you went, the better it got. Britain had its driest September for 100 years. It needed it. August had been Britain’s eighth wettest on record. It’s encouraging to note that seven of Britain’s warmest ever years have been since 2000. But so have four of the five wettest ever years. 2014 had what the Met Office called the most ‘exceptional’ rainfall in 248 years. A warmer atmosphere holds more water. A warmer world, they said, will lead to ‘more intense daily and hourly events’. They rate weather events as severe, extreme and exceptional. The UK had ‘exceptional’ in 2014 and, on the bright side, when southern England basks in what would be regarded as good high summer temperatures of over 26°C during mid-April 2015, what’s not to like? Wait till July and August. Or maybe ask the growers in Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune villages who revelled in their earliest ever rising of the sap in their vines, then saw hail destroy as much as 100% of some of their vineyards for the third year in a row. Growers in the Languedoc watched helplessly as 10,000 hectares of vines were savaged by hail. Global warming isn’t all fun. No one, except growers in Yorkshire and Scotland, ever said it was.

The Elqui River as it traditionally appears – fast-flowing and copious. Snowmelt in the Andes is dwindling and if the river flows fail, the vineyards in both Chile and Argentina will struggle to survive.

All wine producers fear summer hail, which can decimate a crop in only a few minutes. There won’t be any wine from these grapes here in Bordeaux.

And in Europe beyond the Alps, in Austria, Hungary, Croatia and the rest, unprecedented September rains swamped their crops and made quality wine a rarity. Croatia hadn’t seen autumn rains like that for 50 years. Climate change brings torrential rain along with the heat. And it brings cold. North-east America suffered some of its coldest ever winter weather, and in Michigan, the town of Hell froze over (I couldn’t resist that).

‘Global warming isn’t all fun. No one, except growers in Yorkshire and Scotland, ever said it was.’

So are we all doomed? Will we have a wine world to enjoy in a generation’s time? And if so, how? Well, despite the threat of climate Armageddon that seems to hang in the air nowadays like the threat of thunder on a sultry summer’s afternoon, the wine world is reacting. Indeed, it is embarking on one of its great leaps forward, when change comes tumbling in … idols fall and reputations shake, new blood will be given its head, new flavours will appear, even as older ones will reappear. At certain times you feel that it is the worst in wine that waxes and the finest that wanes. But not now. The wine world has been through a tough period. Global financial confusion and, in particular, cliff-hanging survival tactics in the Eurozone seem to have had the effect of concentrating the mind wonderfully. And as the world struggles out of a deeply worrying phase, one that has certainly tested the nerve of many wine producers and, indeed, seen some of them go to the wall, we seem to have sliced off much of the slack flesh that we tolerate in easy times and have emerged with a leaner, more honest and much more challenging and exciting world of wine.

‘So are we all doomed?’

So when did this realization hit me? It’s been hitting me all year. I went to a Californian tasting and was faced, not with a wall of Cabernet and Merlot, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but with offerings of Counoise, Grenache, Carignan, Nero d’Avola, Cinsault, Roussanne and Fiano. Warm-climate grapes from a warm country. And mostly old vines too. Glory Be! At last, California’s past is beginning to be reflected and recognized. Later that week in New York, surveying the bar scene (why do we always say ‘surveying’? we’re not fooling anybody), the demand for ‘new’ grapes, wine styles and flavours was so strong it was almost religious. Be careful. You can overdo demand for the new. There’s usually a reason people liked the old. Perhaps it was really nice to drink.

But that was what was encouraging about California – a lot of the wines were from vines planted long ago, the right vines, vines suited to the climate, not dictated by marketing men. I found the same in South Africa. The most exciting part of the country right now is Swartland – a swathe of hills and farmland running up the west coast. Its produce had been swallowed for blending or brandy by co-operatives for generations as places like Stellenbosch and then the cooler coastal strips forged their reputations. Yet crucially, nobody bothered to rip out the grapes. Led by visionaries like Eben Sadie and Rosa Kruger there’s now a missionary zeal to preserve what’s left – old bush vines of varieties like Cinsault, Carignan, Clairette and Chenin Blanc, once discarded as junk, but perfectly suited to the conditions, and at last being accorded respect. Chile is undergoing a similar revolution in its appreciation of its past. Maule is the country’s largest vineyard region, and has been a supplier of bulk wine for a hundred years. But it’s packed with old, precious vines that now, instead of being bundled into the blending vat, are prized and pampered for their own gloriously gritty selves. That hasn’t stopped Chile becoming thrillingly ambitious in developing new areas for vines: far north into the Atacama Desert, and way south – eventually further south than any other vineyards in the world. But the new is respecting the old. Argentina is adopting the same attitude. And in places like Australia, where they pride themselves on being gamechangers, but have also nurtured a healthy respect for some of their past – old-vine Barossa Shiraz being the obvious example – the desire to seek out and protect their heritage vines, regardless of what grape varieties they are, is enthusing a new generation.

Workers pruning hillside bush vines in winter at Darling, in South Africa’s trendy Swartland district. Great efforts are now being made to preserve South Africa’s remaining old bush vines.

But then, ‘back to the future’ is one of the defining traits of today’s wine world. It’s the young guns – urged on by a few game old blunderbusses – who now lead the charge. And this charge is not merely among wine producers. It’s among us, the wine drinkers. And it’s among the wine writers – or communicators, as they increasingly call themselves – too. Just come with me on a tangential stroll for a moment. Have you noticed how, all of a sudden, the supermarkets, the shops, the pubs and bars are awash with craft beers? Beers of every strength and colour and style – frequently boasting flavours and flavourings beer has never used before? Have you picked up on the revival in so-called ‘hard cider’ – the real thing, made by horny-handed country men and women from real apples grown on real trees in real places on the map? Have you been in any one of the thousands of trendy bars across Europe and America and been gobsmacked by the originality, the sheer exuberant inventiveness of the cocktails, blending ingredients I’d never have dreamt of seeing in the same glass – probably not in the same refrigerator? Flavours, novelty, excitement, supreme self-confidence. The drinks world is a thrilling place to be right now – never been better. Note I said ‘drinks’ not ‘wine’. But bear with me. Because it feeds right back to what I was saying about the young guns. This drinks revolution is being led by the millennials – those 20 to 30-something drinkers who lead this ‘instant gratification’ generation, easily bored but easily inspired, where opinion can be formulated and spread in minutes around the globe on the fevered wings of social media. Where you may not even know someone has tried and raved about your beer or cider, hand-crafted gin or cocktail, till a fresh-faced crowd are banging on your door waving their smartphones.

Some of the oldest wine vines in the world are in South Australia. This 140-year-old Shiraz vine in Henschke’s Hill of Grace vineyard in the Eden Valley is still producing a tiny crop of supremely tasty grapes.

And it’s happening in the world of wine. It’s the younger growers who fear for the land their children may inherit. They’re the ones seeking out every ancient vine, so many of which are well suited to this warming world and, in any case, they’ve survived famine and flood before, in a way that modern, expertly-bred clones – usually based on cool-climate classics like Cabernet and Merlot, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay – will find it increasingly difficult to do. They’re also the ones at last looking for vine varieties whose names the markets don’t yet know, but whose ability to keep their acidity, not overripen in the heat, and not demand much water, will make them staples of the future. Australians, Africans and Americans planting Assyrtiko, Fiano, Picpoul, Agiorgitiko, Nero d’Avola, Graciano and Touriga Nacional are wresting what good they can from the challenging conditions to come. Vine breeders who have spent generations creating clones that ripen fast and build sugar quickly in cool conditions are now turning their talents to developing clones that ripen slower and keep their acid longer in the heat. Scientists who have spent their lives breeding ever more efficient yeasts to maximize the creation of alcohol are now being superseded by a generation bent on producing lazier yeasts that are less efficient and produce less alcohol.

And there is a whole movement that disregards clones and cultured yeasts, indeed manipulation of any sort. The ‘natural’ wine movement tries to grow grapes without chemicals and make wines without chemicals – not even the age-old antioxidant sulphur. Derided as swivel-eyed and deluded producers of turbid, sour liquids only a few years ago, so many talented, committed, young – and not so young – producers are now coming up with wines that are unquestionably different, unquestionably less massaged and smoothed, challenging, unnerving, yet unquestionably delicious, that a whole new level of experience has been added to wine. At the most extreme limit is the growing band of ‘orange’ wines – ‘natural’ white wines fermented like reds, skins and all – acrid, rasping, unforgettable. Do I like them all? No. Do I like all the craft beers and wacky cocktails? No. Am I delighted they all exist and do they inspire hope and pride in my breast for the future? Absolutely yes.

SOME OF MY FAVOURITES

The following are some of the wines I’ve enjoyed most this year. They’re not definitive lists of ‘best wines’, but all the wines, regions and producers mentioned here are on an exciting roll in terms of quality. Some are easy to find; others are very rare or expensive – but if you get the chance to try them, grab it! You can find out more about them in the A–Z here: the cross-references in small capitals will guide you to the relevant entries.

WORLD-CLASS WINES THAT DON’T COST THE EARTH

• Quinta do CRASTO, Reserva Old Vines, Portugal

• CVNE, Rioja Imperial Reserva, Spain

• Hatzidakis, VINSANTO, Santorini, Greece

• JAMSHEED, Garden Gully Shiraz, Victoria, Australia

• Dom. de Marcoux, CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE, France

• Moreau-Naudet, CHABLIS, France

• MUGA, Rioja Reserva, Spain

• Muhr-van der Niepoort, Spitzerberg Blaufränkisch, CARNUNTUM, Austria

• Ossian, RUEDA, Spain

• F X PICHLER, Smaragd ‘M’, WACHAU, Austria

• Giovanni ROSSO, Barolo, Italy

• Eben SADIE, single-vineyard releases, South Africa

• Le Soula, CÔTES CATALANES, France

• Te Whare Ra, Gewurztraminer, MARLBOROUGH, New Zealand

• Dom. Tempier, BANDOL, France

• TORRES, Priorat Salmos, Spain

• Viñalba Gran Reservado/Bodegas FABRE, Argentina

BEST LOOKALIKES TO THE CLASSICS

Bordeaux-style red wines

• CATENA, Alta Cabernet Sauvignon, Argentina

• Le Riche, Cabernet Sauvignon, STELLENBOSCH, South Africa

• OPUS ONE, California

• Southbrook Vineyards, Poetica Red, NIAGARA PENINSULA, Canada

Burgundy-style white wines

• CULLEN, Kevin John, Australia

• HAMILTON RUSSELL, Chardonnay, South Africa

• Norman Hardie, County Chardonnay Unfiltered, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY, Canada

• LEEUWIN ESTATE, Art Series Chardonnay, Australia

• LITTORAI, Charles Heintz Vineyard, Sonoma Coast, California

• TE MATA, Elston, New Zealand

Champagne-style wines

• Jansz (Vintage)/YALUMBA, Australia

• NYETIMBER, Classic Cuvée, England

• ROEDERER ESTATE, L’Ermitage, California

• SCHRAMSBERG Blanc de Blancs, California

TOP-VALUE WINES

• ALENTEJO and VINHO VERDE, Portugal

• CAMPANIA and SICILY whites, Italy

• CORBIÈRES, France

• CÔTES DE GASCOGNE whites, France

• ENTRE-DEUX-MERS and GRAVES whites, France

• Old-vines Garnacha reds, CALATAYUD, CAMPO DE BORJA and CARIÑENA, Spain

• Hungarian whites

• Leyda whites and reds, SAN ANTONIO, Chile

• White RIOJA, Spain

• Romanian reds and whites

• SICILY reds, Italy

REGIONS TO WATCH

• ACONCAGUA Costa, Chile

• Brazil, for sparkling wine

• DOURO, Portugal

• Dorset, Hampshire, Kent, Sussex, England

• ELIM and SWARTLAND, South Africa

• Istria, Croatia

• LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON, for whites such as PICPOUL DE PINET, France

• Leithaberg/Neusiedlersee-Hügelland, BURGENLAND, Austria

• LODI, California, USA

• MAULE (in particular, Cauquenes), Chile

• OKANAGAN VALLEY and Similkameen Valley, Canada

• Ribeiro and Valdeorras, GALICIA, Spain

• TASMANIA, Australia

• Tupungato and Gualtallary, UCO VALLEY, Argentina

• VIRGINIA, USA

PRODUCERS TO WATCH

• Alheit, HEMEL-EN-AARDE, South Africa

• Andeluna, UCO VALLEY, Argentina

• ASTROLABE, Marlborough, New Zealand

• BARBOURSVILLE, Virginia, USA

• BENEGAS, Mendoza, Argentina

• Bressia, MENDOZA, Argentina

• CHAMONIX, Franschhoek, South Africa

• Collector, CANBERRA, Australia

• DE MARTINO, Maipo, Chile

• EDEN ROAD, Canberra, Australia

• ELEPHANT HILL, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand

• FURLEIGH ESTATE, Dorset, England

• K Vintners/Charles SMITH, Walla Walla Valley, Washington State, USA

• LOMA LARGA, Casablanca, Chile

• Maycas del LIMARÍ, Chile

• MONTES (Outer Limits), Aconcagua, Chile

• Quinta da PELLADA, Dão, Portugal

• Tolpuddle/SHAW & SMITH, Tasmania, Australia

• WISTON, West Sussex, England

AUSTRALIA

• BROKENWOOD, Semillon and Graveyard Vineyard Shiraz, Hunter Valley

• CLONAKILLA, Shiraz-Viognier, Canberra

• EDEN ROAD, The Long Road Chardonnay, Tumbarumba, New South Wales

• HENSCHKE, Hill of Grace Shiraz and Louis Semillon, Eden Valley

• Peter LEHMANN, Wigan Riesling, Eden Valley

• McLean’s Farm, barr-Eden red, Eden Valley (BAROSSA)

• MCWILLIAM’S, Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon, Hunter Valley

• Charles MELTON, Nine Popes, Barossa

• MOSS WOOD, Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River

• S C PANNELL, Nebbiolo, Adelaide Hills

• PENFOLDS, St Henri Shiraz, Barossa

• PRIMO ESTATE, Moda Cabernet-Merlot, McLaren Vale

• ROCKFORD, Basket Press Shiraz, Barossa

• ROSEMOUNT, Graciano-Mataro-Grenache, McLaren Vale

• Tolpuddle/SHAW & SMITH, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Tasmania

• TYRRELL’S, Vat 1 Semillon, Hunter Valley

• YABBY LAKE, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula

• YALUMBA, Bush Vine Grenache, Barossa

ENGLISH FIZZ

• BLUEBELL, Hindleap Blanc de Blancs

• BREAKY BOTTOM, Cuvée Réservée

• CAMEL VALLEY, White Pinot

• COATES & SEELY, Blanc de Blancs

• FURLEIGH ESTATE, Blanc de Blancs

• GUSBOURNE, Brut Reserve

• HATTINGLEY VALLEY, Rosé

• Hush Heath, BALFOUR Brut Rosé

• Meonhill, Chardonnay

• NYETIMBER, Classic Cuvée

• RIDGEVIEW, Blanc de Blancs

• WISTON, Rosé

• WYFOLD, Brut

FRANCE: RED BORDEAUX

• Ch. ANGÉLUS

• Ch. AUSONE

• Ch. BRANAIRE-DUCRU

• Ch. CANON-LA-GAFFELIÈRE

• Dom. de CHEVALIER

• Ch. COS LABORY

• Ch. Feytit-Clinet, POMEROL

• Ch. FIGEAC

• Les Forts de LATOUR

• Ch. GRAND-PUY-LACOSTE

• Ch. LÉOVILLE-BARTON

• Ch. LÉOVILLE-POYFERRÉ

• Ch. LYNCH-BAGES

• Ch. la MISSION-HAUT-BRION

• Ch. MONTROSE

• Ch. PETIT-VILLAGE

• Ch. PICHON-BARON

• Ch. PICHON-LONGUEVILLE-LALANDE

• Ch. PONTET-CANET

• Ch. du TERTRE

• TERTRE-RÔTEBOEUF

FRANCE: BURGUNDY

• Blain-Gagnard, PULIGNY-MONTRACHET (white)

• Jean-Claude BOISSET, Clos de la Roche (red)

• Sylvain CATHIARD, Nuits-St-Georges Aux Murgers (red)

• CHEVILLON, Nuits-St-Georges Les Pruliers (red)

• CLOS DES LAMBRAYS, Grand Cru, Morey-St-Denis (red)

• Confuron-Cotetidot, VOSNE-ROMANÉE Les Suchots (red)

• B Dugat-Py, Charmes-CHAMBERTIN (red)

• Duroché, Latricières-CHAMBERTIN (red)

• William FÈVRE, Chablis Grand Cru (white)

• Ch. Gris, NUITS-ST-GEORGES (red and white)

• Comte LIGER-BELAIR, Échezeaux (red)

• MÉO-CAMUZET, Clos de Vougeot (red)

• de MONTILLE, Beaune Les Grèves (red)

• J-F MUGNIER, Nuits-St-Georges Clos de la Maréchale (red)

• Pernot-Belicard, MEURSAULT Les Perrières (white)

• Chantal Remy, CHAMBERTIN (red)

• de Villaine, La Digoine BOURGOGNE-CÔTE CHALONNAISE (red)

• de VOGÜÉ, Bonnes-Mares (red)

• La VOUGERAIE, Clos Blanc de Vougeot (white)

FRANCE: RHÔNE VALLEY

• Gilles Barge, CÔTE-RÔTIE

• Jean-Louis CHAVE, Hermitage (white)

• A CLAPE, Cornas

• Clos du Caillou, CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE

• Dom. du Colombier, CROZES-HERMITAGE and HERMITAGE (red and white)

• Combier, CROZES-HERMITAGE

• CUILLERON, Condrieu and St-Joseph

• DELAS FRÈRES, Grignan-les-Adhémar (red)

• JAMET, Côte-Rotie

• Dom. de Marcoux, CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE (red and white)

• Dom. de la Mordorée, CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU PAPE

• Dom. du Mortier, ST-JOSEPH Soulane

• Niéro, CONDRIEU

• André PERRET, Condrieu and St-Joseph

• Raspail-Ay, GIGONDAS

• Gilles Robin, CROZES-HERMITAGE

• Santa Duc, GIGONDAS

• Marc Sorrel, HERMITAGE (red and white)

• Cave de TAIN, Hermitage (white) and Vin de Paille

ITALY

• ALLEGRINI, Amarone della Valpolicella and La Poja

• BELLAVISTA, Vigna Convento SS Annunciata, Curtefranca Bianco

• Benanti, Rovittello, ETNA

• Marco DE BARTOLI, Passito di Pantelleria

• Fenocchio, BAROLO

• GIACOSA, Barolo Falletto

• Nunzio Ghiraldi, Il Gruccione, LUGANA

• Illuminati, Zanna, MONTEPULCIANO d’Abruzzo

• ISOLE E OLENA, Cepparello

• Luigi Maffini, Kleos Aglianico, CAMPANIA

• Masseto/ORNELLAIA

• Giovanni Montisci, Barrosu, Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva Franzisca, SARDINIA

• Musella, AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA

• Quintodecimo, CAMPANIA

• Riecine, CHIANTI CLASSICO

• Francesco Rinaldi, BAROLO

• Luigi TECCE, Poliphemo, Taurasi

• Tedeschi, La Fabriseria, AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA

• Terre Nere, ETNA, Sicily

• G D Vajra, DOLCETTO and BARBERA

• Viviani, AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA

NEW ZEALAND

• ASTROLABE, Chenin Blanc, Marlborough

• Bilancia, Syrah, HAWKES BAY

• Dog Point, Sauvignon Blanc, MARLBOROUGH

• ELEPHANT HILL, Syrah, Hawkes Bay

• Escarpment, Kupe Pinot Noir, MARTINBOROUGH

• Esk Valley/VILLA MARIA, The Terraces, Hawkes Bay

• FELTON ROAD, Block 2 Chardonnay, Central Otago

• FRAMINGHAM, Gewurztraminer, Marlborough

• GIESEN, The Fuder Clayvin Chardonnay, Marlborough

• Greywacke, Wild Sauvignon, MARLBOROUGH

• KUMEU RIVER, Maté’s Chardonnay, Auckland

• Kusuda, Pinot Noir, MARTINBOROUGH

• NEUDORF, Home Vineyard Pinot Noir, Nelson

• Ostler, Caroline’s Pinot Noir, WAITAKI, Otago

• PEGASUS BAY, Prima Donna Pinot Noir, Waipara

• QUARTZ REEF, Méthode Traditionelle, Central Otago

• Rippon, Emma’s Block Pinot Noir, CENTRAL OTAGO

• TE KAIRANGA, John Martin Pinot Noir, Martinborough

• TerraVin, Te Ahu Sauvignon Blanc, MARLBOROUGH

PORTUGAL

• Altano, DOURO (red)

• ESPORÃO, Quinta dos Murças Red Reserve, Douro

• Casa Ferreirinha/FERREIRA, Reserve Especial, Douro (red)

• Quinta da Manoella, Vinhas Velhas, DOURO

• Anselmo Mendes, Muros Antigos Escolha, Loureiro, VINHO VERDE

• NIEPOORT, Redoma Reserva Branco, Douro

• Luís PATO, White Vinhas Velhas, Beiras

• Quinta da Romaneira, Syrah, Vinho Regional Duriense (DOURO)

• Quinta dos ROQUES, Reserva, Dão

• Quinta Vale Doña Maria, Vinha do Rio, DOURO

SOUTH AFRICA

• Alheit Vineyards, Cartology, Western Cape

• The Apprentice, Chenin-Grenache, Western Cape

• Ataraxia, Chardonnay, HEMEL-EN-AARDE Ridge

• A A BADENHORST, White, Coastal Region

• CRYSTALLUM, Bona Fide Pinot Noir, Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge

• DeMorgenzon, Maestro White, STELLENBOSCH

• The Foundry, Roussanne, STELLENBOSCH

• JORDAN, Nine Yards Chardonnay, Stellenbosch

• KANONKOP, Pinotage, Stellenbosch

• Keermont, Syrah, STELLENBOSCH

• MULLINEUX & LEEU, White Blend, Swartland

• Raats, Chenin Old Vines, STELLENBOSCH

• Rall, Grenache Noir, SWARTLAND

• REYNEKE, Syrah, Stellenbosch

• RUSTENBERG, Peter Barlow, Stellenbosch

• SADIE FAMILY, ‘T Voetpad white, Swartland

• VERGELEGEN, V, Stellenbosch

SOUTH AMERICA

• ALTOS LAS HORMIGAS, Malbec Terroir, Uco Valley, Argentina

• Andeluna, Cabernet Franc, UCO VALLEY, Argentina

• BENEGAS, Lynch Malbec, Uco Valley, Argentina

• Viña CARMEN, Gold Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Alto Maipo Valley, Chile

• CASA SILVA, Edición Limitada Petit Verdot, Colchagua, Chile

• Chakana, Ayni Malbec, UCO VALLEY, Argentina

• Cheval des Andes/TERRAZAS DE LOS ANDES, Mendoza, Argentina

• COLOMÉ, Torrontés, Salta, Argentina

• Domaine Bousquet, Gaia Red Blend, UCO VALLEY, Argentina

• DOÑA PAULA, Parcel Alluvia Malbec, Uco Valley, Argentina

• Viña Lauca, R Old Vineyard Selection Carignan, MAULE, Chile

• Viña LEYDA, Reserva Syrah, Leyda, Chile

• Maycas del Limarí, Reserva Especial Pinot Noir, LIMARÍ, Chile

• MONTES, Outer Limits Sauvignon Blanc, Zapallar, Aconcagua, Chile

• Renacer, Punto Final Malbec Reserve, UCO VALLEY, Argentina

• SANTA RITA, Medalla Real Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley, Chile

• SUSANA BALBO, Signature Torrontés, Uco Valley, Argentina

• UNDURRAGA, T. H. Syrah, Leyda, Chile

• VENTISQUERO/Kalfu Sumpai, Sauvignon Blanc, Huasco Valley, Chile

SPAIN

• AALTO, PS (Pagos Seleccionados), Ribera del Duero

• Artazuri, Pasos de San Martín Garnacha, NAVARRA

• Berroja, Aquirrebeko Txakoli, Basque Country

• CVNE, Imperial Gran Reserva, Rioja

• Fernando de Castilla, Antique Oloroso, SHERRY

• Guimaro, Mencía, Ribeira Sacra, GALICIA

• Mas Martinet, Escurçons, PRIORAT

• Ossian, RUEDA, Castilla y León

• Palacio de Fefiñanes, Albariño de Fefiñanes, RÍAS BAIXAS

• Viña Pedrosa, Reserva, RIBERA DEL DUERO

• Dominio de PINGUS, Pingus, Ribera del Duero

• Tocat de L’Ala, Garnataxa Serà, Emporda, CATALUÑA

• TORRES, Fransola, Penedès

USA CALIFORNIA

• BONNY DOON, Kristy & Jesperson Ranch Albariño, Central Coast

• Cline, Bridgehead ZINFANDEL, Contra Costa County

• COPAIN, Les Voisins Syrah, Yorkville Highlands

• Donelan Syrah, Obsidian and Richards Family Vineyard, SONOMA COUNTY

• Lioco, Indica Carignan, MENDOCINO COUNTY

• LITTORAI, Sonoma Coast

• MARIMAR ESTATE, Don Miguel Vineyard Albariño, Russian River Valley

• RAMEY, Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay, Russian River Valley

• Rubissow, MOUNT VEEDER

• Rudd, Samantha’s Cabernet Sauvignon, NAPA VALLEY

• SHAFER, Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley

• SPOTTSWOODE Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley

• TABLAS CREEK, Esprit, Paso Robles

• Sean THACKREY, Sonoma Coast

• VIADER, Napa Valley

• Wilde Farm, Heritage Bedrock Vineyard Zinfandel, SONOMA VALLEY

• WIND GAP, Trousseau Gris, Russian River Valley

USA PACIFIC NORTHWEST AND MID WEST

• Alexandria Nicole, Shepherds Mark White, Horse Heaven Hills, WASHINGTON STATE

• ANDREW WILL, Champoux, Horse Heaven Hills, Washington State

• BERGSTRÖM, Temperance Hill Pinot Noir, Oregon

• BETHEL HEIGHTS, Casteel Chardonnay, Oregon

• Callaghan, Zinfandel, Arizona

• Canyon Wind, Cabernet Sauvignon, COLORADO

• CHEHALEM, Three Vineyard Riesling, Oregon

• Col Solare, RED MOUNTAIN, Washington State

• DOMAINE DROUHIN, Laurène Pinot Noir, Oregon

• HEDGES FAMILY ESTATE, DLD Syrah, Washington State

• L’ECOLE NO 41, Luminesce White, Seven Hills Vineyard, Walla Walla Valley, Washington State

• LONG SHADOWS, Poet’s Leap Riesling, Columbia Valley, Washington State

• OWEN ROE, Chapel Block Syrah, Red Willow Vineyard, Yakima Valley, Washington State

• Stoller Family Estate, Reserve Pinot Noir, DUNDEE HILLS, Oregon

• Tero Estates, Windrow Field Blend, WALLA WALLA VALLEY, Washington State

USA EAST COAST

• BARBOURSVILLE, Malvaxia, Virginia

• BLACK ANKLE, Albariño, Maryland

• BOXWOOD ESTATE, Boxwood, Virginia

• Breaux, Viognier, VIRGINIA

• Chateau Lafayette Reneau, Dry Riesling, NEW YORK STATE

• Grace Estate, Viognier, VIRGINIA

• KING FAMILY, Meritage, Virginia

• Palmer, Albariño, NEW YORK STATE

• Paumanok, Tuthills Lane Cabernet Sauvignon, NEW YORK STATE

• RdV, Lost Mountain, Virginia

• VERITAS, Petit Verdot, Virginia

• WÖLFFER ESTATE, Claletto Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon, New York State

FORTIFIED WINE

• Alvear, Pedro Ximénez 1927 MONTILLA

• Argüeso, Manzanilla Las Medallas SHERRY

• CHAMBERS, Rutherglen Muscat, Australia

• Cossart Gordon, Vintage Bual, MADEIRA WINE COMPANY

• Fernando de Castilla, Antique sherries

• GONZÁLEZ BYASS, Noé Pedro Ximénez

• GRAHAM’S, 20-year-old Tawny Port

• HENRIQUES & HENRIQUES, 15-year-old Madeira

• PENFOLDS, Grandfather Rare Tawny, Australia

• Pla del Fount, MAURY, France

SPARKLING WINE

• ARGYLE, Blanc de Blancs, Oregon, USA

• Baud, CRÉMANT DU JURA, France

• Benjamin Bridge, Brut Reserve, NOVA SCOTIA, Canada

• CA’DEL BOSCO, Franciacorta Cuvée Annamaria Clementi, Italy

• Deviation Road, ADELAIDE HILLS, Australia

• Encry, CHAMPAGNE, France

• Geisse, Brut Rosé, BRAZIL

• Charles HEIDSIECK, Champagne, France

• Legras, CHAMPAGNE, France

• QUARTZ REEF, Vintage, New Zealand

• SYNCLINE, Scintillation Blanc de Blancs, Washington State, USA

SOME OF MY FAVOURITES: BY GRAPE VARIETY

If we have any interest in wine and in flavours, we have to be interested in the grape variety itself. Many of these grape varieties feature in the previous pages, under regional or national entries. But I think that these grape varieties are important enough for me to give you some more examples which show the grape variety shining through at its best.

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

• BALNAVES, Coonawarra, Australia

• CATENA, Alta, Mendoza, Argentina

• Col Solare/CHATEAU STE MICHELLE, Washington State

• CORISON, Kronos Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California

• DIAMOND CREEK, Diamond Mountain, Napa Valley, California

• GROSSET, Gaia, Clare Valley, Australia

• HEDGES FAMILY ESTATE, Red Mountain, Washington State

• Le Riche, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, STELLENBOSCH, South Africa

• RIDGE, Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains, California

• SANTA RITA, Casa Real, Maipo, Chile

• STAG’S LEAP WINE CELLARS, Fay, Stags Leap District, Napa Valley, California

• VASSE FELIX, Margaret River, Australia

• VERGELEGEN, Stellenbosch, South Africa

CHARDONNAY

• BERGSTRÖM, Willamette Valley, Oregon

• Dog Point, MARLBOROUGH, New Zealand

• FELTON ROAD, Central Otago, New Zealand

• FLOWERS, Camp Meeting Ridge, Sonoma Coast, California

• Norman Hardie, PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY, Canada

• HAMILTON RUSSELL, Hemel-en-Aarde, South Africa

• HdV, Carneros, California

• MARIMAR ESTATE, Sonoma County, California

• NEUDORF, Nelson, New Zealand

• NEWTON JOHNSON, Chardonnay, Upper Hemel-en-Aarde, South Africa

• Ocean Eight, MORNINGTON PENINSULA, Australia

• Payten & Jones, Paul’s Range, YARRA VALLEY, Australia

• PENFOLDS, Yattarna, South Australia

• PIERRO, Margaret River, Australia

• RAMEY, Hyde Vineyard, Carneros, California

• Rijckaert, Vignes des Voises, CÔTES DU JURA, France

• YABBY LAKE, Mornington Peninsula, Australia

MERLOT

• Castello di Ama, L’Apparita, Toscana, TUSCANY, Italy

• Buccella, NAPA VALLEY, California

• CONO SUR, 20 Barrels, Chile

• CRAGGY RANGE, Sophia, Gimblett Gravels, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand

• Fermoy Estate, MARGARET RIVER, Australia

• LAPOSTOLLE, Cuvée Alexandre, Chile

• LONG SHADOWS, Pedestal, Washington State

• Le MACCHIOLE, Messorio, Bolgheri, Italy

• Masseto/ORNELLAIA, Toscana, TUSCANY, Italy

• Sacred Hill, Broken Stone, HAWKES BAY, New Zealand

• TAPANAPPA, Whalebone Vineyard, Wrattonbully, South Australia

• WOODWARD CANYON, Walla Walla Valley, Washington State

PINOT NOIR

• ATA RANGI, Martinborough, New Zealand

• BETHEL HEIGHTS, Willamette Valley, Oregon

• Burn Cottage, CENTRAL OTAGO, New Zealand

• CLOUDY BAY, Marlborough, New Zealand

• CRYSTALLUM, Bona Fide, Hemel-en-Aarde, South Africa

• FELTON ROAD, Central Otago, New Zealand

• Viña LEYDA, Cahuil, San Antonio, Chile

• FLOWERS, Camp Meeting Ridge, Sonoma Coast, California

• Moorooduc, MORNINGTON PENINSULA, Australia

• Rippon, Tinker’s Field, CENTRAL OTAGO, New Zealand

• TEN MINUTES BY TRACTOR, Mornington Peninsula, Australia

• Valli, WAITAKI, New Zealand

• WILLIAMS SELYEM, Westside Road Neighbors, Russian River Valley, California

RIESLING

• Tim ADAMS, Clare Valley, Australia

• Ch. Belá/Egon Müller, SLOVAKIA

• Paul Blanck, Furstentum Vieilles Vignes, ALSACE, France

• BRÜNDLMAYER, Zöbinger Heiligenstein, Kamptal, Austria

• Larry CHERUBINO, Western Australia

• DÖNNHOFF, Oberhäuser Brücke, Nahe, Germany

• Fielding Estate, NIAGARA PENINSULA, Canada

• GROSSET, Polish Hill, Clare Valley, Australia

• JACOB’S CREEK, Steingarten, Barossa Valley, Australia

• Toni JOST, Bacharacher Hahn, Mittelrhein, Germany

• LEITZ, Rüdesheimer Rosengarten, Rheingau, Germany

• Dr LOOSEN, Erdener Treppchen, Mosel, Germany

• Horst SAUER, Escherndorfer Lump, Franken, Germany

• WEINBACH, Schlossberg Cuvée Ste Catherine, Alsace, France

SAUVIGNON BLANC

• Alpha Estate, Amyndeon, Greece

• ASTROLABE, Kekerengu Coast, Marlborough, New Zealand

• BRANCOTT, Late Harvest, New Zealand

• CASA MARÍN, Cipreses, San Antonio, Chile

• CEDERBERG, David Nieuwoudt Ghost Corner, Elim, South Africa

• CONCHA Y TORO, Terryuno, Casablanca, Chile

• Ch. Couhins-Lurton, BORDEAUX, France

• Gladstone Vineyard, Sophie’s Choice, MARTINBOROUGH/WAIRARAPA, New Zealand

• Greywacke, MARLBOROUGH, New Zealand

• Ch. MALARTIC-LAGRAVIÈRE, Bordeaux, France

• MONTES, Outer Limits, Aconcagua, Chile

• Ch. SMITH-HAUT-LAFITTE, Bordeaux, France

• TE MATA, Cape Crest, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand

• TerraVin, MARLBOROUGH, New Zealand

SYRAH/SHIRAZ

• Jim BARRY, The Armagh, Clare Valley, Australia

• Bilancia, La Collina, HAWKES BAY, New Zealand

• CLONAKILLA, Canberra, Australia

• FROMM, Marlborough, New Zealand

• JAMSHEED, Garden Gully, Victoria, Australia

• KONGSGAARD, Napa Valley, California

• Viña LEYDA, Reserva, San Antonio, Chile

• MAN O’WAR, Dreadnought, Waiheke Island, New Zealand

• MATETIC EQ, San Antonio, Chile

• Moon Curser, Contraband, OKANAGAN VALLEY, Canada

• MULLINEUX & LEEU, Schist and Granite, Swartland, South Africa

• PENFOLDS, RWT, Barossa Valley, Australia

• Porseleinberg, SWARTLAND, South Africa

• TRINITY HILL, Homage, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand

SOME OF MY FAVOURITES: OZ’S ODDBALLS

My wine-tasting year isn’t just an endless round of Bordeaux and Burgundy, Rioja and Chianti, Cabernet, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and the rest. There’s been such a revolution in the wine world in the last decade or so that I am finding thrilling wines from places I’d never considered special and from grape varieties I hadn’t always even heard of. The willingness of people like the Australians, Californians, New Zealanders and South Africans to experiment more widely with grape varieties is enormously important, but so is the revival of ancient varieties in ancient winelands. It all makes the world of wine a far more fascinating place than before, and these are some of the unexpected delights I’ve unearthed this year.

REDS

• Alpha Estate, Xinomavro Reserve Old Vines, Amyndeon, GREECE

• Castagna, Adam’s Rib, ‘The Red’, BEECHWORTH, Australia

• Château Marsyas, Red, LEBANON

• Filliatreau, SAUMUR-CHAMPIGNY, Loire Valley, France

• Francuska Vinarija, Obecanje, Serbia

• Garzón, Tannat, Maldonado, URUGUAY

• GEMTREE, Luna Roja Tempranillo, McLaren Vale, Australia

• Giroud Vins, Cornalin de Chamoson, VALAIS, Switzerland

• Kozlovic, Teran, Istria, CROATIA

• Dom. des Muses, Humagne Rouge, VALAIS, Switzerland

• Paumanok, Apollo Drive Petit Verdot, LONG ISLAND, New York State

• Prince Stirbey, Negru de Dragasani, Dragasani, ROMANIA

• Rinaldini, Vecchio Moro, LAMBRUSCO, Emilia-Romagna, Italy

• Telmo RODRÍGUEZ, Al-muvedre, Alicante, Valencia, Spain

• Dom. Sérol, Vieilles Vignes, CÔTE ROANNAISE, France

• Suertes del Marqués, La Solana, Tenerife, CANARY ISLANDS

• Tsantali, Cabernet Sauvignon (organic), Halkidiki, GREECE

• Dom. de Viranel, Arômes Sauvages Bouschet Alicante, Languedoc, France

• WÖLFFER ESTATE, Brau Red, Mallorca, Spain

WHITES

• Arba, Sary Arba Rkatsiteli, Almaty, Kazakhstan

• Jim BARRY, Assyrtiko, Clare Valley, Australia

• BOLNEY, Pinot Gris, West Sussex, England

• Ch. Burgozone, Viognier, Danube Plain, BULGARIA

• Camin Larredya, JURANÇON Sec, South-West France

• Château Mercian, Niitsuru Chardonnay, Katsunuma, JAPAN

• COOPERS CREEK, Albariño ‘Bell Ringer’, New Zealand

• Dveri-Pax, 1139 (Furmint-Pinot Gris-Traminer-Riesling), Stajerska-Slovenija, SLOVENIA

• Daniel Dugois, ARBOIS Vin Jaune, Jura, France

• Vignerons d’Estézargues, CÔTES DU RHÔNE Blanc ‘Plein Sud’, France

• Fox Gordon, ‘Princess’ Fiano, ADELAIDE HILLS, Australia

• GEMTREE, Moonstone Savagnin, McLaren Vale, Australia

• Ilocki Podrumi, Graševina, Ilock, CROATIA

• Dom. Jones, Les Perles de Jones, Carignan Gris, CÔTES CATALANES, France

• Leventhorpe, Madeleine Angevine, Yorkshire, England

• Barone Macri, Terre di Gerace Bianco, CALABRIA, Italy

• Edoardo Miroglio, Soli White, Thracian Valley, BULGARIA

• Dom. de Montbourgeau, l’ETOILE Savagnin, Jura, France

• Dom. des Muses, Petite Arvine, VALAIS, Switzerland

• NIEPOORT, Vinho Verde Dócil, Portugal

• Dom. du Prieuré/Jean-Marc Gallou, Arbois Blanc La Pieuse, TOURAINE, Loire Valley, France

• Puklavec & Friends, Sauvignon Blanc-Furmint, SLOVENIA

• SCHOFFIT, Chasselas, Alsace, France

• Tatomer, Grüner Veltliner Meeresboden, SANTA BARBARA COUNTY, California

• Tbilvino, Qvevris, Kakheti, GEORGIA

• Tetramythos, Malagousia, Achaia, GREECE

• G D Vajra, Riesling, LANGHE, Italy

FIZZ

• Peter LEHMANN, Black Queen Sparkling Shiraz, Barossa, Australia

• RIDGEVIEW, Pimlico Sparkling Red, West Sussex, England

• ULITHORNE, Flamma Sparkling Shiraz, McLaren Vale, Australia

FORTIFIED

• A A BADENHORST, Caperitivo, South Africa

• GONZALEZ BYASS, Palmas ‘en rama’ Amontillado, Spain

• Pfeiffer, Seriously Nutty Apera, RUTHERGLEN, Australia

• Sánchez Romate, Cayetano del Pino, Palo Cortado, SHERRY, Spain

• SHOBBROOK, Sabia Nebbiolo Amontillado ‘Sherry’, Barossa, Australia

TODAY’S WINE STYLES

Not so long ago, if I were to have outlined the basic wine styles, the list would have been strongly biased towards the classics – Bordeaux, Burgundy, Sancerre, Mosel Riesling, Champagne. But the classics have, over time, become expensive and unreliable – giving other regions the chance to offer us wines that may or may not owe anything to the originals. These are the flavours to which ambitious winemakers the world over now aspire.

WHITE WINES

Ripe, up-front, spicy Chardonnay is the main grape and fruit is the key: apricot, peach, melon, pineapple and tropical fruits, spiced up with the vanilla and butterscotch richness of some new oak to make a delicious, approachable, fruit cocktail of taste. Australia, South Africa and Chile are best at this style, but all, Australia in particular, have begun to tone down the richness. Oak-aged Chenin Blanc from South Africa, Semillon from Australia and Semillon-Sauvignon from South-West France can have similar characteristics.

Green and tangy New Zealand Sauvignon was the originator of this style – zingy lime zest, nettles and asparagus and passionfruit – and coastal South Africa and Chile’s coastal valleys and Casablanca regions now have their own tangy, super-fresh examples. Good, less expensive versions from southern France and Hungary. Bordeaux and the Loire Valley are the original sources of dry Sauvignon wines, and an expanding band of modern producers are matching clean fruit with zippy green tang. Spain’s Rueda is zesty. Riesling in Australia is usually lean and limy; in New Zealand, Chile and Austria it’s a little more scented and full. Austrian Grüner Veltliner is ripe but streaked with green.

Bone-dry, neutral Chablis is the most famous, and most appetizing. Unoaked Chardonnay in cool parts of Australia, New Zealand and the USA does a good, but fruitier, impression. Many Italian and Greek whites from indigenous varieties fit this bill in a minerally way. Southern French wines are often like this, as are basic wines from Bordeaux, South-West France, Muscadet and Anjou. Modern young Spanish whites and dry Portuguese Vinho Verdes are good examples. Cheap South African and California whites can be ‘superneutral’. More interesting are Verdelhos and Chenins from Australia.

White Burgundy By this I mean the nutty, oatmealy-ripe but dry, subtly oaked styles with a whiff of struck matchstick, from villages like Meursault at their best. Few people do it well, even in Burgundy itself, and it’s a difficult style to emulate. California makes the most effort. Washington, Oregon, New York State and British Columbia in Canada have occasional successes, but the best New World producers are in Australia and New Zealand, followed by South Africa.

Perfumy, dry or off-dry Gewurztraminer, Muscat and Pinot Gris from Alsace or Gewürztraminer, Scheurebe, Grau burgunder (Pinot Gris) and occasionally Riesling in southern Germany will give you this style. In New Zealand look for Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer. Irsai Olivér from Hungary and Torrontés from Argentina are both heady and perfumed. Albariño in Spain is leaner but heady with citrus scent; Godello is more perfumed. Viognier is apricotty and scented in southern Europe, Australia, Chile and California. Croatian Malvasia and Greek Malagousia are bright and subtly scented.

Mouthfuls of luscious gold Good sweet wines are difficult to make. Sauternes is the most famous, but Monbazillac, the Loire, and sometimes Alsace, can also come up with rich, intensely sweet wines that can live for decades. Top sweeties from Germany and Austria are stunning. Hungarian Tokaji has a wonderful sweet-sour smoky flavour. Australia, California and New Zealand produce some exciting examples and South Africa, the USA and Croatia have a few excellent sweeties. Romania has some scented, lush examples from indigenous grapes. Canadian Icewines are impressive.

RED WINES

Juicy, fruity Beaujolais – and other wines from the Gamay grape – can be the perfect example, but leafy, raspberryish Loire reds, and simple Grenache and Syrah are also good. Modern Spanish reds from Valdepeñas, Bierzo and La Mancha, and old-vine Garnachas from Campo de Borja and Calatayud, do the trick, as do unoaked Douros from Portugal and young Valpolicella and Teroldego in Italy. Young Chilean Merlots are juicy, and Argentina has some good examples from Bonarda, Tempranillo, Sangiovese and Barbera.

Soft, strawberryish charmers Good Burgundy tops this group. Pinot Noir in California, Oregon, Chile and New Zealand is often delicious, and South Africa and Australia increasingly get it right. German Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) can thrill. Rioja, Navarra and Valdepeñas in Spain sometimes get there. In Bordeaux, St-Émilion, Pomerol and Blaye can do the business, and neighbouring Bergerac can be good.

Spicy, warm-hearted Australia’s Shiraz reds are ripe, almost sweet, sinfully easy to enjoy, though they’re becoming lighter and more scented. France’s southern Rhône Valley and the traditional appellations in the far south of France are looking good. In Italy, Piedmont produces rich, beefy Barbera, Puglia has chocolaty Negroamaro and Sicily has Nero d’Avola. Portugal’s Tejo and Alentejo also deliver the goods, as does Malbec in Argentina. California Zinfandel made in its most powerful style is spicy and rich; Lebanese reds have the succulent scent of the kasbah.

Deep and blackcurranty Chile has climbed back to the top of the Cabernet tree, though good producers in cooler parts of Australia and South Africa produce Cabernets of thrilling blackcurranty intensity. New Zealand Merlot and Cabernet Franc are dense and rich yet dry. California and Argentina too frequently overripen their Cabernet and Merlot, though restrained examples can be terrific, as can the best from Washington and Virginia. Top Bordeaux is on a rich blackcurranty roll, with excellent 2000, 05, 09 and 10, and good 2004, 08, 12 and 14: it’s expensive but exciting – as is top Tuscan Cabernet.

Tough, tannic long-haul boys Bordeaux leads this field, and the best wines are really good after 10 years or so – but minor properties rarely age in the same way. Top wines in Tuscany and Piedmont age well – especially Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, some IGT and Chianti Classico, Barolo and Barbaresco. Portugal has increasingly good Dão and Douro reds, and Spain’s Toro and Ribera del Duero reds need aging. Top Cabernet-and Malbec-based blends from Chile and Argentina are burly and dark and may age well.

Rosé There’s been a surge in rosé’s popularity, probably led by California’s blush Zinfandel and Grenache. But far better, drier rosés are also becoming popular, with Spain, Italy and France leading the way for drier styles and Chile and New Zealand for fuller pinks.

SPARKLING AND FORTIFIED WINES

Fizz White, pink or red, dry or sweet; I sometimes think it doesn’t matter what it tastes like as long as it’s cold enough and plentiful. Champagne can be best, but frequently isn’t – and there are lots of new-wave winemakers making good-value lookalikes. California, Tasmania, England and New Zealand all produce top-quality fizz. Spain can also excel. Prosecco is a lively party fizz. New kid on the block is Brazil.

Fortified wines Spain is unassailable as the master of dry fortifieds with its fino sherries. Ports are the most intense and satisfying rich red wines – but Australia, California and South Africa have their own versions of both these styles. Madeira’s fortifieds have rich, brown, smoky flavours, and luscious Muscats are made all round the Mediterranean and in Rutherglen, Australia.

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK

The A–Z section starts here and includes over 1700 entries on wines, producers, grapes and wine regions from all over the world. The most important countries are followed by a full list of the relevant entries in the A–Z section. Remember that regional A–Z entries guide you to further recommended producers in each region or appellation. It is followed on here by a Glossary of winemaking terms and classifications.

Detailed vintage charts, with information on which of the world’s top wines are ready for drinking now, can be found on the inside front and back covers; the front chart features vintages back to 2004; the back chart highlights some of the best older vintages for premium wines.

Cross references Wine names, producers and regions that have their own entries elsewhere in the A–Z are indicated by SMALL CAPITALS.

Grape varieties are not cross-referred in this way, but more than 70 varieties, from Aglianico to Zinfandel, are included in the A–Z.

Index The Index, starting on here, contains over 4500 recommended producers. Some of the world’s most famous wine brand names are also included.

A–Z

OF WINES, PRODUCERS, GRAPES & WINE REGIONS

Glass symbols These indicate the wines produced.

Illustration Red wine     Illustration Rosé wine     Illustration White wine

The order of the glasses reflects the importance of the wines in terms of volume produced. For example:

Illustration   White followed by rosé wine

Illustration Red followed by rosé, then white wine

Grape symbols These identify entries on grape varieties.

Illustration Red grape     Illustration White grape

Star symbols These indicate wines and producers that are highly rated by the author.

Best years Recommended vintages are listed for many producer and appellation entries. Those listed in bold, e.g. 2013, 05, indicate wines that are ready for drinking now, although they may not necessarily be at their best; those appearing in brackets, e.g. (2013), (09), are preliminary assessments of wines that are not released at the time of going to press.

Illustration AALTO Ribera del Duero DO, Castilla y León, Spain From the outset this winery, created in 1999, has produced dense but elegant reds, Aalto⋆⋆ and old vines cuvée Aalto PS⋆⋆. Best years: (2013) 12 11 10 09 08 07 06 05 04 03 01 00 99.

Illustration ABACELA Umpqua Valley AVA, Oregon, USA Earl and Hilda Jones planted the first Tempranillo vines in the Pacific Northwest, in the Umpqua Valley, southern OREGON, in 1995. Today they grow Tempranillo⋆ (Reserve⋆⋆), Albariño⋆⋆ (surprisingly similar to those of GALICIA), Syrah, Merlot, Dolcetto, Malbec, Grenache and Viognier. Best years: (2014) (13) 12 11 10 09 08.

Illustration ABEJA Walla Walla Valley AVA, Washington State, USA Modern winery located on a century-old farmstead in the foothills of the Blue Mountains. Winemaker John Abbott produces crisp Viognier⋆⋆ in small quantities, rich and concentrated Chardonnay⋆, spicy Syrah⋆, supple Merlot⋆ and fine Cabernet Sauvignon⋆⋆, plus a tiny amount of Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve⋆⋆. Best years: (Cabernet Sauvignon) (2013) 12 11 10 09 08 07.

ABRUZZO-MOLISE Italy Abruzzo, with its neighbour Molise, is part maritime, part mountainous. White Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, dry with elegant hay and white currant characters, can reach great heights of quality, but is increasingly overlooked in favour of more immediately characterful and fashionable local grapes Coccociola, Passerina and Pecorino. The fruity, full-coloured Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC, despite high production, can be a red of real quality, as can its rosato partner, Cerasuolo. The creation of subzone COLLINE TERAMANE DOCG for Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from the 2003 vintage reinforces the region’s potential for quality wine. Best producers: Cirelli⋆, Col del Mondo, Contesa⋆, Faraone⋆, Illuminati⋆, Marramiero⋆, Masciarelli, Nicodemi, Emidio Pepe⋆⋆, Orlandi Contucci Ponno⋆, Tollo⋆, VALENTIN⋆⋆⋆. See also MONTEPULCIANO.

Illustration ACHAVALFE RRER Mendoza, Argentina One of Argentina’s most sought-after labels. 80-year-old vines in the La Consulta area of UCO VALLEY produce Finca Altamira⋆⋆, a dark, rich Malbec. Also very good single-vineyard Malbecs Bella Vista⋆⋆ and Mirador⋆⋆, as well as regular Malbec⋆⋆. High-quality approachable red blend, Quimera⋆⋆. Best years: (2014) (13) 12 11 10 09 08 06 05.

Illustration ACONCAGUA Chile A warm region and home to some of Chile’s best reds, from Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Carmenère. The region is also becoming increasingly known for its cooler Aconcagua Costa vineyards, close to the sea, producing very exciting Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah. Best producers: ERRÁZURIZ⋆⋆, MONTES⋆ (Outer Limits), VON SIEBENTHAL⋆.

Illustration TIM ADAMS Clare Valley, South Australia Important maker of fine, traditional wine, whose need to buy in grapes has disappeared since his bargain purchase of 75ha (185 acres) of vines from Leasingham in 2009. He subsequently snapped up the Leasingham winery (closed by Constellation), which he uses for contract winemaking. Classic dry Riesling⋆⋆⋆, oaky Semillon⋆⋆ and rich, opulent Shiraz⋆⋆ (both often ⋆⋆⋆) and Cabernet-Malbec⋆⋆. Newcomers Tempranillo⋆⋆ and Pinot Gris⋆ are exciting. The Fergus⋆⋆ red blend is based on Grenache and Tempranillo and can be juicily glorious, while minty, peppery Aberfeldy Shiraz⋆⋆ (can be ⋆⋆⋆) is a remarkable, at times unnerving, mouthful of brilliance from 100-year-old vines. The botrytis Riesling⋆ can be super. Protégé⋆ label is used for some of his newly acquired vineyards’ fruit. A wide range of wines under the bargain-priced Mr Mick label is consistently great value. Best years: (Aberfeldy Shiraz) (2014) 13 12 10 09 08 06 05 04 03 02 01 00 99 98 96 94.

Illustration ADELAIDE HILLS South Australia Small, exciting region; high altitude affords a cool, moist climate ideal for superb sparkling wine, consistently good Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, promising Pinot Noir, small amounts of classy Nebbiolo, and increasingly exciting, fleshy Shiraz from warmer southern vineyards. Best producers: Ashton Hills⋆, Barratt, Bird in Hand⋆, Deviation Road⋆, Fox Gordon, HENSCHKE⋆⋆, The Lane⋆, Longview⋆, Nepenthe⋆, PETALUMA⋆, SHAW & SMITH⋆⋆, Geoff Weaver⋆.

Illustration ADELSHEIM Willamette Valley AVA, Oregon, USA Over the past three decades, Adelsheim has established a reputation for excellent, generally unfiltered, Pinot Noir – especially cherry-scented Elizabeth’s Reserve⋆ and Bryan Creek Vineyard⋆ – and for rich Chardonnay Caitlin’s Reserve⋆⋆. Also a bright, minerally Pinot Gris⋆. Best years: (Elizabeth’s Reserve) (2014) (13) 12 11 10 09 08.

Illustration AGLIANICO Arguably southern Italy’s noblest black grape, Aglianico makes fine, ageworthy wines, particularly from Campania’s calcareous/volcanic TAURASI or on the volcanic slopes of Monte Vulture in Basilicata. Puglia’s CASTEL DEL MONTE and Campania’s Cilento make softer versions. RYME makes a serious Aglianico from PASO ROBLES in California. Now planted with great success at Grace Vineyard in Shanxi province, China.

Illustration AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE DOCG Basilicata, Italy Wine from the Aglianico grape grown on the steep slopes of extinct volcano Mt Vulture. Despite the location, the harvest is sometimes later than in BAROLO, 750km (470 miles) to the north-west, because the Aglianico grape ripens very late at altitude. Promoted from DOC to DOCG from the 2011 vintage. The best wines are structured, complex and long-lived. Compared with the elegant TAURASI, Aglianico del Vulture is broader and generous in character. Best producers: Basilium⋆, Bisceglia⋆, D’Angelo, Donato d’Angelo⋆⋆, Carbone⋆, Elena Fucci⋆, Musto Carmelitano⋆, Cantine del Notaio, Le Querce⋆, I Talenti, Consorzio Viticoltori Associati del Vulture (Carpe Diem⋆). Best years: 2012 11 08 07 06 05 04 01.

AHR Germany The Ahr Valley is a small, 560ha (1385-acre), mainly red wine region south of Bonn, best known for Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir). Adeneuer⋆, Deutzerhof⋆, MEYER-NÄKEL⋆⋆ and STODDEN⋆⋆ are the best of a growing band of serious producers.

Illustration AIRÉN Spain’s most planted white grape, Airén is grown all over the centre and south of Spain, especially in La MANCHA, VALDEPEÑAS and ANDALUCIA (where it’s called Lairén). Fresh, generally neutral wines, with some eye-opening exceptions, such as Ercavio’s old-vines white from Toledo and ‘natural’ whites by Patio in La Mancha and Ambiz in MADRID.

Illustration ALBAN VINEYARDS San Luis Obispo County, California, USA Based in the cool Arroyo Grande district of Edna Valley, John Alban is a RHÔNE specialist. He offers two Viogniers⋆⋆, a Roussanne⋆⋆ laden with honey notes, four Syrahs (Reva⋆⋆⋆, Lorraine⋆⋆, Seymour’s Vineyard⋆⋆, Patrina⋆), intense Grenache⋆⋆ and Pandora⋆⋆, a Grenache-Syrah blend. Some of America’s purest expressions of Rhône varietals, though recently a little too ripe. Best years: (Syrah) (2012) 11 10 09 08 07 06 05 04 03 02 01 00.

Illustration ALBARIÑO Possibly Spain’s most characterful white grape. A speciality of RIAS BAIXAS in Galicia in Spain’s rainy north-west and, as Alvarinho, in Portugal’s VINHO VERDE region. Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, California, Oregon and the US Mid-Atlantic region are having a go. When well made, Albariño wines have fascinating flavours of apricot, peach and grapefruit, refreshingly high acidity and highish alcohol. The danger to quality is excessive yields.

Illustration ALENQUER DOC Lisboa, Portugal Maritime-influenced hills north of Lisbon, producing wines from local grape varieties such as Castelão (Periquita) and Trincadeira, and from international ones such as Cabernet, Syrah and Chardonnay, often simply labelled LISBOA. Best producers: Quinta de Chocapalha⋆, Quinta da Cortezia⋆, Quinta do Monte d’Oiro⋆⋆, Casa SANTOS LIMA⋆. Best years: (reds) (2014) 13 12 11 09 07 05 04 03.

ALENTEJO Portugal A large chunk of southern Portugal south and east of Lisbon and, along with the DOURO, one of Portugal’s fastest-improving red wine regions. Already some of Portugal’s finest reds come from here; modern winemaking is improving whites. Vinho Regional wines are labelled Alentejano. Best producers: (reds) ALIANCA (Quinta da Terrugem⋆⋆), BACALHOA⋆ (Tinto da Ânfora Grande Escolha⋆⋆), Borba co-op⋆, Cartuxa⋆ (Pera-Manca⋆⋆), Quinta do Centro⋆ (Pedra e Alma⋆⋆), CORTES DE CIMA⋆, Dona Maria⋆, ESPORÃO⋆, Susana Esteban (Procura⋆), Fita Preta⋆, Paulo Laureano⋆, MALHADINHA NOVA⋆⋆, Monte da Penha, Mouchão⋆⋆, Quinta do Mouro⋆, Quinta da Plansel (Plansel Selecta⋆), João Portugal RAMOS⋆, Herdade do Rocim, SOGRAPE⋆, José de Sousa⋆, Terras d’Alter⋆. Best years: (reds) (2014) 13 12 11 09 08 07 05 04 01.

Illustration ALEXANDER VALLEY AVA Sonoma County, California, USA AVA centred on the northern Russian River, which is fairly warm, with only patchy summer fog. Known for Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and old-vine Carignan, though there is some good Sauvignon Blanc, especially from gravelly soils near the river. Best producers: BROC CELLARS, DASHE⋆, JORDAN⋆⋆, Medlock Ames⋆, J Rickards⋆, RIDGE (Geyserville⋆⋆), SEGHESIO⋆⋆, SILVER OAK⋆⋆. See also DRY CREEK VALLEY AVA, RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY AVA, SONOMA COUNTY. Best years: (reds) 2014 13 12 11 10 09 08 07 06 04 03 02 01.

ALGARVE Portugal Holiday region with mostly red wines in four DOCs – Lagoa, Lagos, Portimão and Tavira – but with the tourist market very much in view, most wines simply use the Algarve name. Look out for reds and rosés from Sir Cliff Richard’s Vida Nova, Quinta do Barranco Longo and Morgado da Torre.

ALGERIA With many vines over 40 years old, there should be great potential here, but political uncertainty hinders progress. The western coastal province of Oran produces three-quarters of Algeria’s wine, including the soft but muscular Coteaux de Tlemcen wines and dark, beefy reds of the Coteaux de Mascara.

Illustration ALIANÇA Bairrada DOC, Portugal Crisp, fresh whites and soft, approachable red BAIRRADAs⋆. Also reds from the DÃO (Quinta da Garrida⋆), DOURO (Quinta dos Quatro Ventos⋆) and ALENTEJO (Quinta da Terrugem⋆⋆).

Illustration ALICANTE BOUSCHET French grape, found (illegally) in Provence and in the Languedoc. This workhorse variety was largely grubbed up 20–30 years ago as lacking finesse, but a few growers are now producing robust vins de France from old vines. In Spain it’s known as Garnacha Tintorera and is enjoying a resurgence in popularity. Portugal makes good use of its dark, brooding qualities – as do some producers in South America.

Illustration ALIGOTÉ French grape, found mainly in Burgundy, whose basic characteristic is a lemony tartness. It can make extremely refreshing white wine, sometimes with a mineral, buttermilk undertone, especially from old vines, but is generally rather lean. The best comes from the village of Bouzeron in the CÔTE CHALONNAISE, where Aligoté has its own appellation. Occasionally found in Moldova and Bulgaria. Drink young. Best producers: (Burgundy) COCHE-DURY⋆, A Ente⋆, J-H Goisot⋆, Ponsot⋆, les Temps Perdus, TOLLOT-BEAUT, de Villaine⋆.

Illustration ALLEGRINI Valpolicella DOC, Veneto, Italy High-profile producer in VALPOLICELLA Classico, making singlevineyard IGTs La Grola⋆⋆ (Corvina with a bit of Syrah) and La Poja⋆⋆⋆ (100% Corvina), wines that show the great potential that exists for Veronese red as a table wine. Very good AMARONE⋆⋆ and RECIOTO Giovanni Allegrini⋆⋆. Best years: (Amarone) 2012 11 10 08 07 06 04 03 01.

Illustration THIÉRRY ALLEMAND Cornas AC, Rhône Valley, France Thiérry Allemand has 5ha (12 acres) of prime quality granite hillside vines. He uses little sulphur, in wines that emphasize bold, clear fruit and dashing depth. He produces two unfiltered expressions of CORNAS at its intense and simmering best: Chaillot⋆⋆ has racy, dark berry fruit and crisp, lively tannins; complex, sustained, sometimes floral, long-lived Reynard⋆⋆⋆ is from very old Syrah. Best years: (Reynard) 2014 13 12 11 10 09 08 07 06 05 04 03 01 00 99 98 96 95 94 91 90.

Illustration ALLENDE Rioja DOCa, Rioja, Spain One of the most admired new names in RIOJA, making a mix of single-vineyard (pago) and high-quality blends. Scented, uncompromisingly concentrated reds include Aurus⋆⋆, Calvario⋆⋆ and fresh, vibrant Allende⋆. Also a marvellous, scented white⋆. Best years: (reds) 2011 10 09 08 07 06 05 04 03 02 01 00 99.

Illustration ALMAVIVA⋆⋆⋆ Maipo, Chile State-of-the-art joint venture between CONCHA Y TORO and the Baron Philippe de Rothschild company (see MOUTON-ROTHSCHILD), located in MAIPO Valley’s Tocornal vineyard. A memorably powerful red blend, predominantly from old Cabernet Sauvignon vines planted in alluvial, stony soils; it can be drunk at 5 years but should age for 10. Best years: 2012 11 10 09 07 06 05 03 01.

Illustration ALOXE-CORTON AC Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France Important village at the northern end of the CÔTE DE BEAUNE producing mostly red wines. Its reputation is based on the two Grands Crus, CORTON (mainly red) and CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE (white only). There’s an argument raging that some of the Grand Cru red vineyards should be 1er Cru, and some 1er Crus downgraded to village level. That’s harsh, but there’s some truth in it. On the other hand, some village wines from Boutières and Valozières are worth a second look. Almost all the white wine is classified as Grand Cru. Best producers: d’Ardhuy⋆, CHANDON DE BRIAILLES⋆, M Chapuis⋆, Marius Delarche⋆, Dubreuil-Fontaine⋆, Follin-Arbelet⋆, Camille Giroud⋆, Antonin Guyon⋆, JADOT⋆, Mallard, Rapet⋆, Senard⋆, TOLLOT-BEAUT⋆. Best years: (reds) 2014 12 11 10 09 08 07 06 05 03 02 99.

Illustration DOM. JEAN-MICHEL ALQUIER Faugères AC, Languedoc, France This estate shows how good FAUGÈRES can be, with barrel aging, and low yields for the special cuvées, Les Bastides⋆⋆ and La Maison Jaune⋆. Whites include Les Vignes du Puits (Marsanne-Roussanne-Grenache Blanc) and Pierres Blanches⋆ (Sauvignon Blanc). Best years: (Bastides) (2014) 13 12 11 10 09.

Illustration ALSACE AC Alsace, France Tucked away on France’s border with Germany, Alsace produces some of the most individual white wines of all, rich in aroma and full of ripe, distinctive flavours. Alsace is almost as far north as CHAMPAGNE, but its climate is considerably warmer and drier. Wines from the 51 best vineyard sites can call themselves Alsace Grand Cru AC and account for 4% of production; quality regulations are more stringent and many individual crus have further tightened the rules. Riesling, Muscat, Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris are generally considered the finest varieties. Sylvaner and Pinot Blanc