By Simha Bode
Basic Sourdough Science
Most bacteria found in sourdough are lactobacilli, cousins of the bacteria
that turn milk into yogurt and cheese. These lactobacilli out number the
yeasts in sourdough by as many as 100 to 1. Lactobacilli make acetic and
lactic acids by converting sugars, this is what gives sourdough its tang.
These acids also deteriorate gluten, which is one reason sourdough
bread is more digestible. The lactobacilli also create aromatic compounds
that infuse bread with flavors and smells. The pH of a well fermented
sourdough is around 3.8. Most microorganisms drop out of competition
at this point, but the wild yeasts in sourdough can tolerate the acids and
convert sugars into carbon dioxide and ethanol making the bread rise.
Our digestive system works because of the good bacteria living therein,
without them, there wouldn’t be any digestion. Our entire existence
directly depends on these friendly bacteria, which help us convert the
foods we eat into usable, absorbable nutrients. Everything we eat is
broken down into its individual makeup of amino acids (proteins),
vitamins, carbohydrates (simple and complex), fats, and more.
Sourdough and other foods, using probiotics and fermentation are using
nature’s design for predigesting foods our body could use some help to
breakdown.
This is using living organisms to process your food, so you must get to
know them... have patience, pay attention, be observant, experiment and
have fun!
It is Alive!
Yes, sourdough is living, breathing, eating and converting. This requires
you to bring awareness to another aspect of food preparation; using a
living organism. This is a disclaimer. Sourdough requires a relationship
with this living culture, feeding, watching, observing, messing up and
trying variations (keeping notes helps).
Just realize the culture is alive and everything from air temperature to
humidity, handling, breeze and time, effect the culture and the breads out
come. If you are the type of person that can’t take failure, don’t even
attempt to use sourdough... this isn’t to say with some experience you
wont be able to get consistent results to a high degree, you can! Most
likely it will take composting some of your attempts, each time you will
learn something, this is where observation and note taking can be very
helpful.
Not only will you be rewarded with great tasting breads and
pancakes but it is a boon that provides a very healthy way to eat grains.
Grains are are actually very difficult for us to digest when they are
uncultured. Many of
the allergies people experience with wheat
consumption, is actually the inability to digest the grain, for some people
sourdough has been found to be a ‘cure’ for this reaction. Spelt is a grain
that is very low in gluten which is a good option for a more digestible
bread, sprouting your grains increases the digestibility even more..
Basic Sourdough Culture
Also known as The Mother or Starter. These wild yeast exist everywhere!
It is only a matter of attracting them, so, you create their ideal
environment by fermenting sugars.
Recipe:
Add 1/2 cup flour to 1 cup water in a bowl and mix well. Be
sure your water is not chlorinated, if it is, let water sit for 24 hours before
using. Add a table spoon of flour and stir the batter once a day. In 3-5
days you should start to smell the fermentation happening. I
recommended
using whole grain flour because, it has all the various
components of the grain, though you can use white. It should now be
bubbly, if its not keep waiting. You can store your starter in the fridge,
this slows the bacteria down. You only need to refresh it every 2 weeks,
with no fridge you must refresh daily.
When using the starter to make bread replace the culture you took to
make the bread with
fresh water and flour. AlWAYS KEEP SOME
CULTURE SET ASIDE or you will start from the beginning again!
When your not refreshing your starter from using it, you should still
refresh it every 2 weeks. Remove half and replace it with fresh water and
flour, Freezing it, is also possible. To use, thaw and refresh.
Sourdough Recipe
Sourdough
The night before you will bake mix the sponge:
1/2cup starter
4 cups flour - of your choice
4 cups water (add slowly)
mix well
• Let sit over night minimum 8 hours Next morning add:
1 TBS salt with NO iodine
Stir well - add
Add 5 1/2 - 6 cups flour - of your choice
Mix and kneed in ingredients well let rest 2 hours
Split bread into 3 well oiled bread pans let rest for 2 hours
Preheat oven to 475 f put a pan in the bottom of oven with some ice or water.
Score the surface of breads 1/4 inch deep with a sharp and wet knife before putting
in preheated oven
Bake at 450 f - 40 min
All the variables; temperature, moisture, handling and time are factors to
consider. Take notes, and try again, tweaking as you feel.
Vegan Sourdough Pancakes
Sourdough Crepes
3-4 hours before your ready to cook, mix:
1/2 cup starter
1 1/2 cup wheat flour
1 cup water
Let sit 3-4 hours
Add
1/3 cup soy milk
2 Tbs sunflower oil
Pinch of salt
1/4 tsp Baking soda
Sweeten and embellish as you like
Heat a lightly oiled pan (olive, corn, sunflower), clay non-tick is the best,
on med-high once the pan is hot scoop 1/3 cup of your batter into the
center of pan, tilt the pan around in a circle which will spread the batter
into a bigger circle. Keep spinning to spread the batter into an even
thickness. wait until the entire top surface dries, then flip. You shouldn’t
have to oil your pan again if it is HOT.
Serve them hot with jam or maple syrup or refrigerate them and use them
for savory wraps for lunch! Experiment!
Ovens in a Rising Culture
Why are ovens important in this ‘Rising Culture’?
Ovens are a temple where Fire is enshrined. In praise of its beauty the
harvest is offered unto its sustaining qualities. The Fire receiving our
honest offering then transmutes the ‘raw’ harvest into ‘Manna’ BREAD,
blessed food to sustain and nourish us.
In both the building of the oven and the making of bread we must
recognize the Five Elements. Either, is the good intention and Love that
goes into building the oven and the mixing the bread. Fire, is not just the
fire of the oven, but the Sun, to dry the cob, and the fire of digestion that
the culture uses to transform the flour into a sourdough bread. Air, is the
breathability of the cob building material, the movement of hands and
feet, and is sustaining the living culture in the bread. Water, is an
essential ingredient of life and in both cob and bread for mixing and
moisture. Earth, is the clay, cob, straw, rock and bricks used in building
the oven and the grains in the bread.
Ovens are a gathering place and a place of abundance and magic.
Traditionally in Europe, they were in the central town-square or in the
church where all the residents would bring their dough to be baked by
the village baker. Now, as a new culture emerges with community and
food being central to its expression, earth ovens have just as important a
role to play.
Firing and Baking
in your Earhen Oven
Getting to know your oven will take time and patience. Once you have
made several small drying fires and your oven is cured you are ready for
your first bake!
Tools and Fire safety: It is important to have tools with long enough
handles so you don’t need to reach inside the oven. The tools you need;
a peel, a rake, a mop, a poker stick, and a metal container for coals.
You should also always have a 5 gallon bucket of water and a water
source near by. Wear close toed shoes and have leather gloves on hand
Each oven is unique in the amount of time it takes to get up to
temperature and how long it will hold the heat. Some variables; oven
size, amount of thermal mass, efficiency of insulation and quality of
wood. The more thermal mass your oven has the longer it will take it to
get up to temp. (using more fuel) and the longer it will hold heat with the
variable of insulation efficiency. Depending on what your baking your
firing time will also vary.
From my experience the basic baking thermometers are not of use in
these ovens. Typically if a thermal mass oven has a temp gauge it has a
minimum of three; one that reads the hearth (floor) temperature, one for
the dome and one for the air. I have a more basic low/tech way to check
the temperature
Staring your oven
To start the fire you should have some paper or birch bark, some small
kindling and some medium size wood. build a small lincoln-log style fire
in the door way. This allows the fire to get sufficient air when starting to
create the draft. Once the draft is established you can use your rake to
push the fire to the middle of the of the hearth.
In this style oven whether you have a chimney or not, the door is both the
intake and exhaust. This means there is a stratification of air, the cool air
is being drawn in the bottom half of the door and the hot exhaust of the
fire is exiting the top half of the door. This is important to be aware of
because the air exiting the top of the door can burn you quickly, whether
you are leaning to close to look in or trying to put another log on the
fire.
Managing he Fire
You will get your oven up to temperature, which means it will be too hot
at first. For these smaller home size ovens it will be anywhere from 1.5 to
3 hours of fire. When firing it is good to have a long stick that you can
use to arrange the wood. Always dip your tools in the 5 gallon bucket
after using to make sure there are no embers on your tools. The air is
being drawn in along the hearth so you want you fire to be as open to
receive this air intake as possible, create a tunnel when possible so the
air can pass along the bottom of the fire. A lincoln log approach works
good, keeping the sides and back of the oven clear so the air can reach
all points of the fuel.
It is a dance that takes practice to have your bread ready at the same
time the oven is ready.
Oven Prep
Once it is up to temp you will let the wood burn down to coals and
spread them evenly across the heart and wait 20-30 min for the floor
temperature to even out. Now you will need your tools, removing the
coals can be the most dangerous part of the firing, so be sure you have
plenty of water on hand and all combustibles are far away. You will need
a metal container to rake the coals into and dowse with water. It is a
good idea to use leather gloves and watch for steam it can burn. It also
helps to work with wet tools so they don’t catch fire (if they are wood).
Once the majority of coals are out, you will use a mop or drape a towel
over your rake (as I do) and mop out the majority of coals and ash that
are left over. Don’t worry about getting it completely clean, you don’t
want to loose too much heat and you will be mopping it again.
Now that your oven is empty you want to close it up. If you are using a
plug door, sufficiently wet a towel, double it and drape it across the back
(inside) of the door, push the plug in sealing the oven closed. Typically
you should wet the towel again in 15-20 min. (or it will burn through)
After 30min to 1 hour of being empty the heat should have evened out
and you are ready to check the oven temperature. Take a small handful
of white flour, open the door carefully and place the flour in a pile near
the middle of the oven hearth and close the door. Count 20 seconds and
look at the pile. If it is only browned you oven is ready to bake. If the top
of the pile is burned (black) the air temp is too hot, mop the oven out
again, close wait 20-40 min and test again. if the edges touching the
hearth are burned then the hearth is too hot, mop the oven out
thoroughly, close wait 20-40 min and test again. Repeat until the flour
only browns in 20 seconds. Your ready to bake!
he Bake
Now your perfectly proofed loaves are ready to bake. You can bake in
bread pans they have their advantages, though there is nothing like a
hearth kissed loaf. Typically sourdough loaves are either proofed (left to
rise) in baskets or cradled in the folds of a linen canvas, though cotton
works. In both cases you flour the surface of the basket and the canvas
before putting your loaves in. the linen you should heavily flour on the
first use (white flour, the bran is too large) pushing it into the fibers, and
after you only need a light dusting, whole grain works best. you can use
a sifter to apply the flour in a thin even coat. Sticky sourdough is
something that takes trial and error to learn to work with.
You should have a table or shelf set up to the side of the oven door (your
dominant side). If you are using canvas you will need to transport the
loaves to the oven with the surface they are proofing on, use a board or
table top that fits through your door without tilting. Baskets and pans can
simply be carried out. Now you need your peel, a razor blade and some
flour.
Flour the peel, and transfer the loaf from its proofing place onto the peel
(with bread pans you just slide them in). If you used canvas, place the
peel next to the loaf on top of the canvas, place your hand on the other
side of the loaf under the canvas, lift the canvas and roll the loaf onto the
peel. I put 2-3 loaves on the peel to save time and heat by loading the
oven faster. Leave some room in between you loaves or they will
combine into one. You are finished loading the oven, which should be a
quick and smooth operation.
You want it to be quick so you have an even bake, the first loaf has
already baked the amount of time it took to load the oven. Depending on
your oven the bread could be done in 20 minutes. Check your loaves by
peeking if they are risen and look baked, pull one out and tap on it, if it
sounds hollow its done. If you do a second or third bake leave the oven
empty 30 minutes for the air temp to recharge in between bakes. As the
oven temp drops you can use it to bake different things pies and cookies
then leave a stew in for a couple hours or through some root vegetables
in, be creative! After you are all done with food, you can load your oven
with your next load of wood to get it kiln dried for a really great burn
next time.
Baking Pizza
Baking pizza is totally different, as I am sure you know from seeing it
done. In baking pizza you keep the fire in the oven and you don’t use a
door. This is to have a very high air temperature to cook the toppings.
Fire your oven 1-2 hours get a good coal base spread the coals across
the floor wait 20 min and push the coals to one side or the back of the
oven (I like the side its easier to see as it bakes). You should have some
small hardwood pieces to keep feeding to the coals to maintain a flame.
mop the hearth out and put you pizza in, you will need to rotate the
pizza quite soon. Keep a close eye on the side of the pizza facing the
fire. Pull it out with your peel when that side is golden, rotate and put
back, typically a pizza only takes a few minutes.