201
RAW MATERIALS AND URBAN COMB
MANUFACTURING IN MEDIEVAL SCANDINAVIA
Maria VRETEMARK*
Summary
Résumé
Zusammenfassung
Large quantities of waste reveal
where the workshops of comb makers
were located in medieval towns. Fragments of bone and antler tell us from
what species the raw materials came
and how the supply was organized. ln
the J J'h and J2'h centuries, antler was
the dominant raw material for combs,
usually from local populations of elk or
red deer. However, there is at least one
example where reindeer antler, transported from afar, was clearly preferred
over local resources. During the 13th
century there was a general change in
the nature of the raw material to more
bones [rom domestic animais, especially
cattle and horses.
Matières premières et fabrication de
peignes en Scandinavie médiévale.
De grandes quantités de déchets
révèlent l'emplacement des ateliers de
fabrication de peignes dans les villes
médiévales. Les fragments d'os et de
bois nous indiquent de quelles espèces
animales venait la matière première et
comment l'approvisionnement était
organisé. Aux XI' et XII' siècles, le bois
était la matière première principale. Le
bois d'élan ou de cerf venant de la
population locale de gibier constituait la
majeure partie de la matière première.
Il y a cependant au moins un exemple où
l'on a préféré aux ressources locales des
bois de renne venus de loin. Au
XIIIe siècle, la qualité de la matière première a changé de façon générale. On a
préféré des os d'animaux domestiques,
surtout de bovins et de chevaux.
Rohmaterial und stiidtische Kammherstellung im mittelalterlichen Skandinavien.
GrojJe Mengen von Abfallmaterialien
zeigen, wo die Kammhersteller in den
Stiidten ihre Werkstiitten hatten. Die
Knochen- und Geweihfragmente zeigen
uns, von welchen Tierarten der Rohstoff
stammt und wie die Rohstoffversorg1111g
organisiert war. lm 11. und 12. Jahrhundert war Geweih aus ortliclzen
Hirsch- und Elclzpopulationen das wiclztigste Materia/ zur Kammherstellung. Es
gibt aber auclz ein Beispiel dafür, dajJ
man importiertes Rentiergeweih den
lokal verfügbaren Rolzstofjen vorgezogen hat. lm 13. Jahrhundert hat sich der
Charakter der Rohstoffe geiindert. Zu
dieser Zeit hat man vermehrt die Knochen von Haustieren, bevorzugt von
Rind und Pferd, verwendet.
Key Words
Mots clés
Schlüsselworte
Scandinavia, Middle Ages, Comb
manufacturing, Raw materials.
Scandinavie, Moyen Âge, Fabrication de peignes, Matières premières.
Skandinavien, Mi1te/alter, Kammherstellung, Rohstoffe.
Meat, milk, wool, skins and labour - this is the usual
way of considering the uses man had for animais in early
times. However, one of the most important raw materials
used in the manufacture of a number of everyday objects is
taken from the animal world. This is not least apparent
when carrying out archaeological excavations in the cultural layers in medieval towns where combs, pins, knife handles, dice, playing pieces and spindle whorls made of bones
from domesticated animais or antler from wild animais are
the most common finds. Traces left from manufacturing
activities, mainly of combs, are also found (fig. 1). Dis-
carded remnants, half-finished products and unsatisfactorally made objects show where the towns' workshops
were located. Through osteological analysis of the thousands of pieces of waste from the rubbish heaps, it is possible to determine the raw materials used by the comb makers. Unfortunately, today, there are only a few comprehensive collections of material from comb making from a few
medieval towns in Sweden that have been totally analysed
osteologically. However, from these towns - Skara, Kungahiilla and Lund (fig. 2) - there is detailed and comparable
information on the nature and composition of the raw mate-
* Skaraborgs Liinsmuseum, P. O. Box 253, 532 23 Skara, Sweden.
ANTHROPOZOOl.OGICA. 1997. N' 25, 26
202
Fig.1: Thousands ofbone and antler shavings and splinters are often found in the
rubbish heaps from the comb makers workshops.
rials from a total of 10 workshops (Christophersen, 1980;
Vretemark, 1989 and 1990).
Combs of antler and bone
Generally speaking, in medieval towns, the use of
bone and antler as raw materials in crafting can be divided
into different phases. In the earliest phase (1000 to the rnid
1 lOOs) the nearly dominating raw material was antler from
wild animals. The local fauna determined the dominating
deer species (tab. 1). Consequently, in Denmark, antler
from red deer was mainly used, while in Sweden, elk antler
was the main raw materiaL In the following phase (late
1 lOOs to mid 1200s) bones from cattle and horses
increased in use to such a degree that it became the completely dominating raw material towards the late 1200s.
Fig. 2: Through the centuries, the national boundries in
Scandinavia changed several times. During the medieval
period, Lund belonged to the Danish Crown and Kungahiilla
to the Norwegian. On the other hand, throughout history,
Skara was and always has been Swedish. The map shows the
medieval boundries of Sweden, Denmark and Norway.
ANTHROPOZOOLOGICA. 1997. N' 25-26
Section/: lvlethods
203
During the 1300s evidence of the use of antler as raw material is normally only sporadically seen (tab. 2).
Different cooperating factors contributed to this development. Both the elk and red deer populations decreased in
size during the medieval period which, for example, is
reflected in the hunting restrictions placed on wild animais
(elk red deer and roe deer) which began during the 13th and
14th centuries. This kind of hunting came to be principally
restricted to the king and his closest circle. At the same time,
an increasing trade in food in the growing towns resulted in a
good supply of cheap raw materials available through the
butchers and tanners. The transition to working with bone
from butchered animais from deer antler became the natural
solution to the problem of the availability of raw materials.
There are at Ieast two clear disadvantages involved
making combs of bone instead of antler. In the first place, it
Table 1: Relative distribution of the number of antler
fragments in the comb debris from the period ca 1000-1150
shown according to species.
Table 2: Relative distribution of antler from wild animais and
bone from domesticated animais in the debris from comb
maker's workshop in the three different chronological layers
in Skara. The calculations have been made on the number of
fragments per category.
Lund
Skara
Kungahiilla
Red deer
97.7
<0.1
3.7
Elk
0.6
99.8
2.7
Reindeer
1.7
<0.1
Roe deer
< 0.1
Total number
6297
Chronological
lay ers
Domesticated
animais
bon es
Wild
arum ais
antler
Total
number
93.6
AD 1100-1150
11.8
88.2
69
<0.1
0.0
AD 1180-1250
29.6
70.4
2767
2026
8046
AD 1290-1320
1.7
3.3
478
3
3
lijlllljlll jllli jlllillllillilljlllljlllljlilljllll/lllljlllljlllljlllljlllljllllllllljlllljlllljlllljlllljlllljlllljlllljllli1lllljlllljllllllllljlllljlllljlllljllll\lllljlllljllll\lllljlllljlllljlllljlllljllll\llll\lllljlllljlllljlliljlllljll1ljll
1.
5
6
7
8
9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28
Fig. 3: Medieval combs can be divided into three main types. The earliest was the single comb (enkelkam, Sw; 1).
During the 1lOOs even the double one-piece comb (dubbelhelkam, Sw) is known (2). A new type appeared in the
1200s, the composite double comb (sammansatt dubbe/kam, Sw; 3), which combined the advantages of both the earlier
types, namely teeth with varying density and composed of several pieces.
,\NTHROPOZOOLOG/ CA. 1997. N° 25, 26
204
Fig. 4: In the Norwegian town of Kungahalla, reindeer antler was the primary raw material used for making combs.
Discarded pieces of scrap antler are partly poorly utilized which implies that a good suppl y of antler was available.
is not possible to extract pieces from bone that are as large
as the ones that can be extracted from a deer antler. Therefore, combs sawed out in one single piece (one-piece
combs dubbelhe/kammar, Sw.) were unusual. Instead,
combs made of many smaller pieces (composite double
combs, sammansatta dubbelkammar, Sw.) quickly became
increasingly common during the 1200s (fig. 3). The second
disadvantage was that bone combs were Jess durable than
antler combs. This implies of course that the demand for
combs increased, a situation which favoured the comb
makers as handicraftsmen.
Reindeer antler in Ku:ngahalla
It is clear that the comb makers in the Norwegian town
of Kungahalla did not follow the same development in their
craft that otherwise took place in Sweden and Denmark. In
contrast to the comb makers in the other towns, in Kungahalla antler from the local resources of wild animais was
ANTHROPOZOOLOGICA. 1997. N° 25-26
used only extremely marginally. Kungahalla Jay in the
southermost perifery of the medieval Norwegian kingdom
in the modem Swedish province Bohuslan only about 110
km directly south southwest of Skara. The local deer population ought to have been about the same as in Skara, that is
mainly elk with a certain appearance of red deer. However,
the comb makers in Kungahalla have preferred to use reindeer antler which is evidenced in the fact that more than
90% of the waste material cornes from reindeer (fig. 4).
What was the origin of the reindeer? In Sweden, and
above ail in Norway, there was a surplus of wild reindeer
rather far south during the Medieval period. This is seen in
the archaeological excavations of seulement sites, for
example, in the high mountain massif Hardangervidda in
southern Norway (Kjos-Hanssen, 1973). The reindeer
antler found in Kungahalla probably originated from just
that area. The shortest distance between the southem part
of Hardangervidda and Kungahalla is 300-400 km. If the
Section!: Methods
205
antler was transported by boat, the transport itself ought not
to have been the greatest obstacle. The first phase in this
process of supply, namely the task of obtaining the antler in
Norway surely must have been the most difficult.
Collecting shed antlers
There are two methods for obtaining reindeer antler either cutting the antlers off a butchered animal or collecting antlers that have been shed. The majority of the rose
wreaths from Kungahalla corne from antlers that had been
shed which shows that crafting in antler was based on the
collection of shed antlers. In this respect the result from
Kungahalla agree with the results from both Skara and
Lund where the amount of shed antlers clearly dominates
over the amount of antler obtained from hunting elks and
red deer respectively (tab. 3).
Table 3: Relative distribution of shed antler and antlers taken
from butchered animais found in the comb material.
Town/species
Shed antlers
Antlers from
butchered
animais
Total
number
Skara/elk
75.0
25.0
16
Lund/red deer
71.0
29.0
314
Kungahalla/
reindeer
97.7
8.3
84
Regarding the question of the use of shed antlers, there
are certain advantages in using antlers from reindeer instead
of elk or red deer antlers. Greater amounts of antlers cou Id be
found in the same area, because both reindeer cows and bulls
have antlers, and because of the fact that reindeer live in
flocks. Regardless of species, however, very good knowledge of the animais' patterns of movements during the shedding period is necessary. As a rule, bulls shed their antlers
during the period January-March. The considerably smaller
antlers of the cows are shed first after giving birth to their
calves in May. The reindeer antlers from Kungahalla are
well-developed and robust and therefore they can nearly
exclusively be supposed to have corne from bulls.
Consequently, collecting antlers sufficient for a whole
year's production, took place during the late winter/very
early spring. It was important to find the shed antlers
before they spoiled. At least in the case of reindeer, we
know that the animal itself eats the antlers, probably
because they contain large amounts of calcium. It is apparent that the collection of shed antlers worked and was sufficient as long as the production of antler objects was kept at
a reasonable Jevel in relation to the suppl y of raw materials.
When the demand for combs increased in the successively
growing populations in the 131h century towns, a graduai
change was made to the greater use of boncs from domcsticated animais. This is true except for Kungahillla whcrc
unlimited transports of rcindccr antlcr continucd. This
implies that the supply of reindccr antlcr was considcrably
greater than the suppl y of antler from clk and rcd dccr.
:Bones f:rom domesticatecl animaJs
There is no doubt that when the comb makcrs movcd
to using bonc instead of antlcr, the dominating bone type
was metacarpal and mctatarsal from cattle (fig. 5). The rcason for this, of course, was the supply. These bones were
located in the animal's lower cxtremitics which wcre
scarce in meat and which were eut off at the ti me of
butchering. Each butchered animal yielded a total of four
such bones. The radius and tibia, which aclually are more
favorable with larger fiat areas, are on the contrary to the
former, located in the more meaty parts of the extremities.
Therefore, as a rule, they were damaged upon primary
butchering in addition to being left in the meat during
preservation and preparation. This impaired the quality of
the bones and made them Jess suitable for further use.
The advantage of using horse bones, however, is
somewhat different. Suitable bones from the meaty body
Mctatarsal
h••••••••••••••
Mctacarpal
tllllmllmlllllllllBIBm••
t--i
Fcmur tlll
Radius+ulna t
:J
T "b'
lia
Humcrus
Costae
Scapula
-
1
r...=:J
0
Horsc
Il
Cattlc
t11
f
M~dfü'I
Horncorc
Number of fragmcnl~
lilllllll
0
25
50
75
100
125
150
Fig. 5: Diagram showing the distribution of number of
fragments of different bone types in the waste material
from a 14•h century comb maker's workshop in Skara.
ANTllROPOZOOl.OGICA. 1997, N'· 25. 26
206
Marine mammals
j111
rrnp ri lfll 1rp111fi111jIn11 lllljllll, lllljllll, lllljlllIl Ill Ifi 1rr11111jllIi1111 ·
24
25
26
27
28
2g
30
31
32
Fig. 6: Small sawed off fragments of killer whale
(Orcinus orca) were found among the waste from the
comb maker's workshop in Kungahfilla. Smaller objects
as, for example, gaming pieces and dice were made from
the teeth.
parts sometimes appear among the spill in equal quantities
as bones from parts of the body that are poor in meat
(fig. 5). This is because horse meat was not eaten during
the Medieval Period. Thus it made no difference where the
bones were located in the body, the large meaty parts were
still not utilized.
Horse bones were probably more desirable as the raw
material for bone crafting because of its more robust structure and, compared to cattle bones, larger fiat areas. The
supply was limited however as not nearly as many horses
were butchered as were cattle. The relationship between
cattle and horse bones in the waste left from crafting is
approximately 7: 3.
Sometimes the comb makers' s heaps of waste contain
pieces from more unusual raw materials as walrus tusks
(Odobenus rosmanis), killer whale teeth (Orcinus orca) and
whale ribs. It was mainly in Kungaha.Ila that the more costly
raw materials were used in making other objects than combs.
Rib bones from whales have a thick compact layer with
large areas of bone suitable for making larger objects as, for
example, weaving knives or cases. Teeth from killer whales
are compact and very suitable for smaller objects as gaming
pieces, dice, handles and buttons (fig. 6). In Kungahfilla,
fragments of teeth from killer whales have been found relatively evenly distributed throughout ail the chronological
layers. This indicates that the use of these teeth was not temporary but was something that continually reappeared in
connection with the production of a small number of more
exclusive objects. The situation was the same for walrus
tusks which were seldom found in larger quantities.
Whaling took place mainly in the waters off of northern Norway, although the majority of the highly valued
walrus tusks corne ail the way from Greenland. The tusks
were the most important ware in the trading exchange
between the Norwegian colony on Greenland and Norway,
via Iceland. The sawed off tusks, together with other valuables as white falcons and polar bear skins, reached buyers
many hundreds of kilometers away. Products from northern
Scandinavia and Greenland were apparently well worth the
enormous risks which sailing the open seas and the dangerous northern waters meant.
Acknowledgements
My participation in this congress and the work on this
article was made possible thanks to contributions from
Svenska Institutet and Kungliga Vitterhets Historie och
Antikvitetsakadernien. The article was translated by Phyllis
Anderson Ambrosiani.
Bibliography
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KJOS-HAl'l'SEN O., 1973.- Reindeer antlers and what they can tell us about the reindeer population. NorWegian Archaeological
Review, 6 : 2.
VRETEMARK M., 1989.- Kammakeriavfallet - en osteologisk analys. In : K. Carlason ed., Arkeologi i Kungahiilla 1989.
Uinsstyrelsen i Gêiteborg och Bohus Jan, p. 57-66.
VRETEMARK M., 1990.- Medeltida kammakerier i Skara - en râvaruanalys. In : Viistergotlands Fornminnesforenings
Tidskrift. Skara: Skaraborgs liinsmuseum, p. 133-144.
ANTHROPOZOOLOGICA. 1997. N° 25-26