Thora Hands
DR IN K I NG
in VICTORI A N
& E DWAR DI A N
BR ITA I N
Beyond the Spectre
of the Drunkard
Drinking in Victorian and Edwardian Britain
Thora Hands
Drinking in Victorian
and Edwardian Britain
Beyond the Spectre of the Drunkard
Thora Hands
Social Sciences
City of Glasgow College
Glasgow, UK
ISBN 978-3-319-92963-7
ISBN 978-3-319-92964-4
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-92964-4
(eBook)
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For Corky
PREFACE
It is not a dark secret, nor is it difficult to perceive, that the established
intellectual research disciplines … when they turned their attention to
alcohol, man and society focused upon the painful aspects. They studied
‘drinks’ not drinkers; intoxication rather than drinking; the awful sequels
of alcohol ingestion, not the usual. Studies of the causes of alcoholism for
example, are legion, but studies of the causes of drinking are rare’1
My background is in social sciences and next to history, sociology is my
second great interest. So before embarking on historical research for
my thesis, my Ph.D. supervisor Jim Mills drew my attention to a collection of sociological and anthropological studies on alcohol and drinking
behaviour. The quote above is from Selden Bacon, an American sociologist writing in the 1970s on the limitations of the problem framework
within alcohol studies. Bacon and other sociologists, such as Harry
Levine, were critical of scientific approaches that focused primarily on
the issue of pathology because they felt that these studies simply miss
the point of alcohol consumption.2 Put simply, most people who drink
alcohol are not alcoholics and therefore it seems illogical to focus almost
exclusively on that aspect of drinking behaviour.
Levine links the emergence of the pathological framework to a ‘temperance culture’ in which alcohol is viewed as a problem or social evil. In
countries like Britain, this sort of attitude has prevailed for a long time—
right back to the nineteenth century in fact.3 More recently, the idea
of a temperance culture has a particular resonance because my country,
vii
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PrEfACE
Scotland, passed a law that will introduce minimum unit pricing on alcoholic drinks. This is a population-wide measure to tackle the health and
social problems associated with alcohol consumption. Whether it will
make any kind of decisive impact on drinking behaviour is yet to be seen,
but it is a measure that affects all alcohol consumers in Scotland and it is
based upon the premise that alcohol is a social problem.
The sociologist in me questions the limitations of the problem
framework because it fails to account for human agency or for the
complexities of alcohol production and consumption. This not only
limits our understanding of drinking behaviour but it also impacts
upon the majority of alcohol consumers. I’m not only talking about
present-day drinkers in Scotland but also those in the past for whom
alcohol was not a problem but a substance that held pleasure and meaning. As Bacon said, the ordinary aspects of alcohol have never really
grabbed the limelight and that also applies to the historical record. The
Victorian period was the original temperance culture, where alcohol
and drunkenness were constructed as social and moral problems and
that is why it offered the perfect place to start digging around for a different side to the story.
Thora Hands
NOTES
1. Bacon S. 1979. ‘Alcohol research Policy: The Need for an Independent
Phenomenologically Oriented field of Studies’: Journal of Studies of
Alcohol: Volume 8:2: p. 26
2. Levine H. 1991. ‘The Promise and Problems of Alcohol Sociology’, in
(ed.) roman P. M. Alcohol: The Development of Sociological Perspectives on
Use and Abuse: New Jersey: rutgers Centre of Alcohol Studies.
3. Ibid.: p. 106.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
This book marks a journey that began ten years ago when I frantically
scribbled a one-page essay to gain entry to a social sciences college
course and ended when I received my doctorate in history. I hope that
the journey is not yet over but for that stage at least, I have to thank the
many people who helped me along the way.
In my new role as a college lecturer, I now know just how committed and inspiring my own lecturers were and without the help and support of Lynn Dickie, Iain MacPherson and Jennifer Gemmell of the
former Langside College, I would not have made it on to the degree
programme at Glasgow Caledonian University. The jump from degree to
Masters involved a mix of good luck in finding the Girgenti records at
the Mitchell library (so thank you drunken Edwardian women!) and further good fortune in having a wonderful supervisor, Dr. Janet Greenlees,
who showed no end of patience and encouragement in guiding me on to
the Ph.D. This book is based on my doctoral thesis and for that, I have
to thank my Ph.D. supervisors Professor Jim Mills and Professor Matt
Smith of Strathclyde University for their help and support. I would also
like to thank the faculty of Education and Society at City of Glasgow
College for supporting the publication of this book.
I owe a great debt of gratitude to The Wellcome Trust for funding
my Doctoral research project titled ‘reframing Drink and the Victorians:
The Consumption of Alcohol in Britain 1869–1914’ (reference no.
099357/Z/12/Z). This allowed me to visit wonderful archives that
contained fascinating material. I was awed by the sheer volume and
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
diversity of the Diageo archive near Stirling and I have to thank the generosity and patience of the archivists there. I also owe many thanks to
the archivists at The Athenaeum and The reform Clubs in London for
showing such interest in my research and allowing me to sift through
their club records to uncover a wealth of material. I spent many happy
days in the National Brewing Archive in Burton-upon-Trent and thank
the archivists for their knowledge and guidance.
Some of the best moments of my Ph.D. were at the conferences
hosted by The Alcohol and Drug History Society. I have rarely spent
time with a bunch of academics who are as supportive and generous with
their time and knowledge and are generally just good fun to be around. I
owe particular thanks to Dr. Iain Smith for being such a good travelling
companion; to David fahey for sharing his mighty knowledge of British
alcohol history and to Dan Malleck for being an all-round good guy.
My biggest thanks go to my mum Kathy and to my partner Andy for
their support and most importantly, for pouring wine or mixing margaritas as and when necessary. My kids—Dan, Lewi, Peter and Beth have
been with me throughout this journey. They have grown up with a mum
often chained to a desk piled high with books, or packing a case to go
off on research and they just rolled with it, as kids do, but they should
know that I appreciate the time they gave me and that they have my
love, always.
CONTENTS
1
Introduction: Reframing Drink and the Victorians
Part I
1
Drinkers
2
The Spectre of the Drunkard
13
3
The Great Army of Drinkers
25
4
The Secret Army of Drinkers
41
5
Testing the ‘Character of Drink’
49
Part II
Drinks
6
Selling ‘the Drink of the Empire’: Bass & Co. Ltd
59
7
Making Scotch Respectable: Buchanan and Walker
69
8
Selling the ‘Illusion’ of the Brand: W & A Gilbey
85
xi
xii
CONTENTS
Part III
9
Drinking in Victorian and Edwardian Britain
Doctor’s Orders: A Prescription to Drink
95
10 Drinking for Health: Proprietary Tonic Wines
113
11 Neither Carnival nor Lent: Everyday Working Class
Drinking
129
12 The Drinking Cultures of the Higher Classes
145
13 Conclusions
159
Appendix
165
Bibliography
185
Index
189
LIST OF FIGURES
fig. 7.1
fig. 7.2
fig. 7.3
fig. 7.4
fig. 7.5
fig. 10.1
fig. 10.2
fig. 10.3
fig. 10.4
fig. 10.5
fig. 10.6
fig. 10.7
fig. 11.1
Diageo Archive (DA): Buchanan’s whisky bottle c. 1905,
Courtesy of Diageo PLC
DA: Buchanan’s bottles featuring ‘The royal Household’
labels c. 1910, Courtesy of Diageo PLC
DA: Buchanan’s black and white whisky bottle c. 1910
labeled ‘by warrant of appointment distillers to H. M.
The King’, Courtesy of Diageo PLC
DA: Buchanan’s Black and White advert: 1909, Courtesy
of Diageo PLC
DA: Buchanan’s Black and White advert: 1909, Courtesy
of Diageo PLC
Wincarnis advertisement in The Penny Illustrated Paper,
London, 1905
Wincarnis advertisement, Illustrated London News, March
1909
Wincarnis advertisement, The Penny Illustrated Paper,
London, 1911
Advertisement for Wincarnis, The Penny Illustrated Paper,
1906
Chemical analysis of tonic wines: The British Medical
Journal, March 1909
Advert for hall’s wine: The Graphic: 6 January 1900
Advert for hall’s wine: The Graphic: 2 September 1899
Bass & Co. advertisement c. 1900–1910, Courtesy
of The National Brewery Centre
72
73
74
78
79
116
117
118
119
120
123
124
138
xiii
xiv
LIST Of fIGUrES
fig. 11.2
Graph 9.1
Graph 9.2
Graph 9.3
Graph 9.4
Graph 9.5
Graph 12.1
Bass & Co. advertisement c. 1900–1910, Courtesy
of The National Brewery Centre
Glasgow royal Infirmary alcohol expenditure from 1871
to 1914. The dates shown are those in which expenditure
on alcohol was listed in the annual reports
Gartnavel royal Asylum alcohol expenditure from 1875
to 1885. The dates shown are those in which alcohol
expenditure was listed in the annual reports
Western Infirmary alcohol expenditure from 1880 to
1905. The dates were selected at five-year intervals
Alcohol expenditure in Hawkhead Asylum 1907–1913.
The dates shown are those in which expenditure on
alcohol was listed in the annual reports
Types of alcohol purchased by Glasgow royal Infirmary
1871–1891
Income and expenditure on wines, beers and spirits
in The Athenaeum 1894–1900
139
102
103
104
104
107
152
CHAPTEr 1
Introduction: reframing Drink
and the Victorians
The Victorians liked to drink and they lived in a society geared towards
alcohol consumption. In the great industrial cities of Britain, there was
almost no escaping the beer houses; gin palaces; refreshment rooms; restaurants; theatres; music halls; vaults; dram shops; oyster bars; private
clubs and public houses that served a dizzying array of alcoholic drinks
to suit people from all walks of life. Drinking went on from dawn till
dusk and on into the wee small hours so we know that many people liked
to drink. Yet we know very little about their reasons for doing so because
the issue of drunkenness has cast a long shadow over the majority of
alcohol consumers. In reframing drink and the Victorians, this book
looks deeper than the problems of alcohol, to investigate the reasons
why people drank it in the first place. It picks up where Brian Harrison’s
study of the Victorian temperance movement ended and surveys the
period from 1869, when the state began to take more control of alcohol
regulation and licensing, up until 1914 when wartime regulations were
imposed on alcohol sale and consumption.1 Harrison’s study ended just
at the point when the expansion and consolidation of the alcohol industry gave consumers more choice than ever in the types of alcoholic drinks
they consumed and in the types of drinking places they frequented.
Alcohol became a mass-produced commodity available to an expanding
consumer market and this led to heightened political, moral and medical
concerns about the problems associated with drinking and drunkenness
across towns and cities in Britain.
© The Author(s) 2018
T. Hands, Drinking in Victorian and Edwardian Britain,
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-92964-4_1
1
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T. HANDS
Many questions about drink and the Victorians remain unanswered
but the most pressing relate to how and why the majority of people
carried on drinking through a period when it was increasingly difficult
to do so in a socially acceptable way. The clues to answering this question lie partly in the substance itself. Alcohol is and was a legal intoxicant that derives its usage and meaning from the social and cultural
context in which it is consumed. People share a complex relationship
with alcohol that spans time and place but importantly, it is a relationship that involves the agency of consumers. This is why the story of
drink in late Victorian and Edwardian Britain resonates today. We live in
the consumer society that emerged from late nineteenth century industrial capitalism. The technological advances, production and advertising
techniques developed during this time not only turned alcohol into a
mass-produced commodity but also gave life to the idea of the consumer.
People’s drinking behaviour may have been shaped and constrained
within a political, medical and moral framework but legislation and public health initiatives only went so far to control drinking behaviour within
a political and economic system geared up for mass production and consumption. This is our current dilemma with alcohol and it stems from
the late Victorian period. History has shown that it does not matter how
often or to what extent alcohol consumption has been problematised or
prohibited—people still continue to drink. Therefore, the key to understanding drinking behaviour is to try and understand why people drink.
In this regard, the late Victorian period offers the perfect place to start.
ronald Weir argues that the biggest demon facing the government
and the drink trade in Victorian Britain was the ‘spectre of the drunkard’ which drove the political campaigns of the Temperance movement,
shaped legislation and pushed the drink trade into a defensive position.2
Early in the century, medical interest in the issue of drunkenness led to
the development of the disease concept of inebriety which gained popularity in the 1870s as a means of diagnosing and medically treating heavy
drinking and drug use. The British Society for the Study of Inebriety was
formed in 1884 by a group of doctors and politicians who campaigned
for legislation to legally detain and medically treat inebriates. This
resulted in the passing of The Inebriates Act in 1898.3
Moral and medical concerns about drunkenness drove political
campaigns to reform the licensing system in Britain and in the 1860s
the ‘drink question’ topped party political agendas as a means to win
over the electorate. The Liberal Party was broadly aligned with the
1
INTrODUCTION: rEfrAMING DrINK AND THE VICTOrIANS
3
pro-temperance campaigns that sought radical reforms of the licensing
system. While in contrast, the Conservative Party sided more with the
drink trade in aiming to maintain the status quo and protect the rights
of alcohol producers, retailers and consumers.4 In response to the tighter
alcohol regulations imposed by the 1869 and 1872 Licensing Acts, the
drink trade consolidated its efforts to mount political opposition that
would challenge legislation and defend the right to buy and consume
alcoholic drinks.5 At the turn of the century, the stakes were high in the
political ‘battle’ between the state and the drink trade, with the trade facing the prospect of a slow demise and the government facing the wrath
of the drinking, pub-going electorate. The main source of debate was
over the extent to which the state could legitimately interfere in a private enterprise. The trade was incensed by proposals to directly limit the
numbers of pubs; grant more powers to local authorities to limit pub
licenses within their districts and remove the profit from selling alcohol
by establishing state and local authority run pubs. The 1904 Licensing
Act passed by the Conservative government allowed for a reduction in
licenses and compensation for the trade. However, as James Nicholls
notes, the perceived weakness of this act fundamentally shifted the
debate to one of direct state control over the drink trade which seemed
unlikely until the outbreak of war in 1914 when the government was
forced to take more direct action.6
Despite the problems of alcohol, it remained a legal intoxicant and
in a recent study, Virginia Berridge considered the reasons why alcohol,
unlike other narcotic substances remained legal in Britain. She argues
that during the nineteenth century, temperance ideology and the economics of alcohol production were crucial in altering social, cultural and
political attitudes towards alcohol.7 The consolidation and expansion of
the drink trade not only meant that alcohol became a standardised commodity produced for a mass market but it also increased the political
influence of the drink trade. In short, the revenue generated from alcohol sales held its own political value.8 Therein lies the issue with alcohol:
moral and medical concerns about drinking fit uneasily within a capitalist
system geared up to cater to an expanding consumer market. Attitudes
towards alcohol may have changed but its commodity value remained
solid.
Yet this commodity value was largely dependent upon the ability of
the drink trade to generate and expand the market for alcohol. This was
achieved through the invention of new technology that revolutionised
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T. HANDS
the practices of brewers and distillers and allowed for the mass production of beers and spirits. Mid-century improvements in shipping and the
expansion of the railways meant that alcohol producers could build the
domestic and foreign markets for their products. British imperialism also
provided a back-bone for trade by creating military and colonial outlets
for alcoholic products. The retail trade expanded after the passing of The
1860 Wine and refreshment Houses Act which was intended to promote the more ‘civilised’ habit of wine drinking by allowing the sale of
wine and spirits within a wider range of premises. This stimulated the
retail trade and led to the growth of refreshment rooms and licensed
grocers. It also led to the success of businesses such as The Victoria
Wine Company, a retail chain that catered to the more affluent urban
middle classes.9 This all added up to more choice in what people could
drink and where they could drink. Most importantly, Victorians continued to step through the pub door even when the moral, political and
medical tide began to turn against alcohol. We know that there was
widespread concern about public drunkenness and that efforts were
made to tackle this problem. We also know that drunkenness was constructed in religious, political and medical discourse as a moral failing; a
medical problem; a source of social and financial ruin; the root of crime
and deviance. Yet people still drank alcohol and we really know very little
about their reasons for doing so.
BEYOND THE SPECTRE OF THE DRUNKARD
One of the ways of looking deeper than the problems of drink is to consider the agency of alcohol consumers. This type of analysis has been
used in a number of social and cultural histories of alcohol and other
intoxicants.10 In a study of Mexican drinking culture, Tim Mitchell views
drinkers as rational actors and not ‘mere pawns somehow incapable of
noticing alcohol’s dark side’. He believes that the clues to uncovering people’s motivations and drinking behaviour lie at the deeper cultural level.11 In a study of cigarette smoking in America, richard Klein
claims that the ‘dark, dangerous and sublime’ qualities of cigarettes have
been erased in a climate of demonization. He argues that cigarettes and
smoking have a rich and diverse cultural history that can be explored
and understood through a variety of cultural texts without reference to
health risks, harm or addiction.12 This is a useful methodology for looking at evidence of drinking behaviour because it negates the constant
1
INTrODUCTION: rEfrAMING DrINK AND THE VICTOrIANS
5
need to moralise drinking in the past. for the majority of alcohol consumers, drinking and getting drunk were choices—wilful acts involving the consumption of an intoxicant that held pleasure and meaning.
This cannot be ignored or sidestepped by a moralising analysis. To do so
would be to deny agency to consumers and disregard the social and cultural significance of a popular legal intoxicant.13
Looking beyond the problem framework also requires an understanding of the motives of alcohol producers and consumers. Sociological
theories of consumption provide insights into how certain social groups
cultivated tastes for particular drinks and how and why needs and desires
for specific drinks were generated. Thorstein Veblen’s ideas about conspicuous consumption prove useful in considering the drinking behaviour of the middle and upper classes. Veblen argues that the overt display
of wealth was one way that the Victorian upper classes could redefine
their social class status in a world where consumer goods were becoming
more affordable to the masses.14 Pierre Bourdieu also considers the links
between social class and the practices of consumption but argues that
wealth is not enough to define social class status. He uses the concept
of cultural capital to explain the ways in which higher levels of education
and social etiquette are used by the middle and upper classes to differentiate and reject ‘popular’ or obvious forms of consumption.15
Alcohol consumption must also be considered within the context of
the expanding capitalist system. Jean Baudrillard considers the question
of how needs for commodities are generated and argues that needs are
not somehow ‘magically’ present within consumer objects.16 Instead, the
practices of marketing and advertising go further than creating the need
to buy specific objects to create the need to buy almost any object.17 In
order to circumvent temperance ideology and reach consumers, alcohol
producers had to invent reasons to buy alcohol and promote drinking
as a desirable activity that symbolised cultural ideals. Michel de Certeau
goes further to argue that consumers actively produce rather than consume meanings in objects.18 De Certeau is concerned with ordinary people’s engagement with consumption which he believes operates in a way
that circumvents and subverts the dominant social order.19 Building on
Michel foucault’s concepts of power and discipline, he proposes that
within the grid of discipline that exists to maintain the dominant social
order, the ‘consumer grid’ operates as both a means of social control
and political resistance.20 In terms of alcohol consumption the relationship between drinkers and drinks may be guided by dominant social and
6
T. HANDS
cultural norms and values. However, the act of drinking creates a space
that holds power for consumers and thus has meaning. The idea of a
consumer grid allows agency for consumers to engage with alcohol in
different ways for different reasons—sometimes challenging or resisting
dominant cultural values.
This book engages with a range of perspectives in order to provide
an analysis of alcohol production and consumption between 1872 and
1914. The problems of alcohol were evident during this time but there
is another side to the story of drinking in late Victorian and Edwardian
Britain. The book is thematically divided into three Parts which deal with
different aspects of alcohol production and consumption. Part I explores
the ways in which alcohol consumers were imagined and represented in
political discourse. Chapter 2 considers the complexities of the drink question in the nineteenth century with an overview of the political responses
to the issues of alcohol sale and consumption which resulted in stricter
licensing laws later in the century. It then examines the impact this legislation had on alcohol producers and retailers who formed local and national
trade defence organisations. One of the ways to promote and protect
business interests was through the publication of weekly or monthly
trade journals. The main purpose of these journals was to harness interest and support in trade defence activities and to promote and advertise
local and national businesses. The chapter examines the ways in which the
drink trade endeavoured to ‘reinvent’ their business as a respectable and
vital part of British society. Chapter 3 investigates ideas about the ‘great
army of drinkers’ that continued to drink alcohol despite moral pressure
and political control of alcohol sale and consumption. One of the richest sources of information on alcohol consumers lies within the reports
of parliamentary enquiries on alcohol held during the second half of the
nineteenth century. During these enquiries, witnesses from across Britain
gave detailed accounts of drinking within their towns, cities and districts.
This provides insights into different types of drinking behaviour and also
into the ways in which alcohol consumers were imagined and portrayed.
Chapter 4 continues the analysis of alcohol consumers but shifts the
focus on to women drinkers. If men can be defined as a ‘great army’ of
drinkers then women were the ‘secret army’ whose drinking behaviour
was often shrouded by the constraints of gender norms and values or
encased in ideas about deviancy and immorality. The chapter considers
the division between women’s public and private drinking and shows
that women’s drinking behaviour challenged patriarchal control and the
1
INTrODUCTION: rEfrAMING DrINK AND THE VICTOrIANS
7
ideals of femininity. Chapter 5 examines the issues that surrounded the
types of alcoholic drinks sold to the public. It was widely believed that
the types and qualities of alcohol sold and consumed within pubs and
other drinking places influenced drinking behaviour. The quality of beer,
wine and spirits varied enormously and some brewers and publicans used
adulterants to enhance the quality, taste or strength of the liquor sold.
Strong alcoholic drinks and those adulterated with other intoxicants were
believed to have adverse effects on the behaviour of alcohol consumers.
Part II has three case studies of the nineteenth century drink trade.
Chapter 6 considers the tactics of the brewing industry by focusing on
one of the largest and most successful brewers in Britain, Bass & Co.
Ltd. In order to compete in a growing domestic and foreign market for
beer, Bass began to use advertising as a means of reaching larger groups
of consumers. By appealing to notions of Britishness and Empire, Bass
secured a market for their products and established a strong brand image.
The company also used ideas about the supposed health giving properties of beer in order to boost dwindling sales towards the end of the
century. Chapter 7 examines the motives of distillers with case studies of
two whisky producers, Buchanan and Walker who successfully cultivated
a market for Scotch whisky in England. James Buchanan ensured that his
company’s brands of blended whisky were conspicuously consumed by the
British elites through the contract to supply to the Houses of Parliament
and by securing royal warrants. Chapter 8 considers the alcohol retail
trade with a case study of one of the leading wine and spirit merchants in
the Victorian period, W & A Gilbey, which restructured its business model
due to pressure from customers to supply branded products. In the late
Victorian period, particular brands of wine, champagne and spirits became
more popular because they were associated with ideas about quality and
taste. The company realised that in an emerging consumer culture, the
power or ‘illusion’ of the brand held great commercial profit.
Part III considers the way in which alcohol was used and the different drinking cultures that emerged in the Victorian and Edwardian periods. Chapter 9 considers the use of alcohol by the medical profession in
the last quarter of the nineteenth century. This was a time when doctors began to debate the efficacy of alcohol as a therapeutic drug and
the moral implications of prescribing alcohol to patients. Alcohol was
still used to treat a wide range of psychological and physiological illnesses
but debates existed over the issue of therapeutic nihilism—whether alcohol did more harm than good and while some doctors held faith in its
8
T. HANDS
therapeutic qualities, others disagreed. An analysis of hospital records
which show that alcohol use gradually declined in the period leading
up to the first World War when the financial and moral cost of alcohol
began to impact upon its popularity as a prescribed medicine. Chapter 10
examines the practice of drinking alcohol for health reasons. This was
driven in part by the use of alcohol in medical practice but also by commercial factors, which played a significant role in promoting ideas about
the health giving benefits of consuming certain alcoholic drinks. The
chapter explores the ideas and controversies that surrounded the medicinal use of alcohol through a case study of Wincarnis Tonic Wine, which
was one of the leading brands of tonic wine in the late nineteenth century. Political and medical debates existed about the therapeutic value
of proprietary tonic wines which were sold and purchased as a means of
self-medication for a range of psychological and physiological ailments.
Chapter 11 explores the drinking cultures of the working classes
through analysis of oral history interviews conducted in the 1970s on
surviving Victorians and Edwardians. These interviews reveal another
side to working class drinking, where alcohol consumption revolved
around family life, work and leisure. This stands in contrast to the way
in which working class drinking was often portrayed as either ‘carnivalesque’ or ‘teetotal’ in political discourse. In fact, everyday working class drinking was much more humdrum and routine. In contrast,
Chapter 12 considers drinking cultures of the middle and upper classes
where there was a desire to consume alcohol in a conspicuous manner in
order to reflect and promote social status. One of the key ways of achieving this was to consume the ‘right’ sorts of drinks in the ‘right’ kind of
places. The chapter considers the way that men and women consumed
alcohol within private spaces: in the home and within gentlemen’s clubs.
The domestic context of alcohol consumption was governed by rules of
social etiquette, which both demonstrated and reinforced social class and
gender values. The chapter provides a case study of alcohol consumption within two of London’s top gentlemen’s clubs: The Athenaeum
and The reform Club. The wine committees within gentlemen’s clubs
were tasked with cultivating and upholding particular standards of taste
in alcoholic drinks. The men who drank in the clubs had the freedom
and finances that allowed them to do so and therefore they expected to
be served only the finest quality alcoholic drinks. As guardians of taste,
the wine committees ensured that the alcohol consumed in gentlemen’s
clubs reflected the class and gender status of club members.
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9
NOTES
1. Harrison B. 1971. Drink and the Victorians: The Temperance Question in
England 1815–1872: London: faber & faber.
2. Weir r. B. 1984. ‘Obsessed with Moderation: The Drink Trades and the
Drink Question 1870–1930’: British Journal of Addiction: Volume 79:
pp. 93–107.
3. May C. 1997. ‘Habitual Drunkards and the Invention of Alcoholism
1800–1850’: Addiction Research: Volume 5:2.
4. Greenaway J. 2003. Drink and British Politics Since 1830: A Study in
Policy Making: Basingstoke: Palgrave MacMillan.
5. Gutzke D. 1989. Protecting the Pub: Brewers and Publicans Against
Temperance: Suffolk: The Boydell Press; Weir r. B. 1984. ‘Obsessed with
Moderation’.
6. Nicholls J. 2011. The Politics of Alcohol: A History of the Drink Question in
England: Manchester: Manchester University Press.
7. Berridge V. 2013. Demons: Our Changing Attitudes to Alcohol, Tobacco
and Drugs. Oxford: Oxford University Press.
8. Berridge V. 2013: location 1673.
9. Briggs A. 1985. Wine For Sale: Victoria Wine and the Liquor Trade 1860–
1984: London: B.T. Batsford Ltd.
10. Duis P. 1998. The Saloon: Public Drinking in Chicago and Boston, 1880–
1920: Chicago: University of Illinois Press; Powers M. 1998. Faces
Along the Bar: Lore and Order in the Workingmen’s Saloon, 1870–1920:
Chicago: University of Chicago Press; Dikotter f., Laarmann L., and
Xun Z. 2004. Narcotic Culture: A History of Drugs in China: Chicago,
Chicago University Press; Zheng Y. 2005. The Social Life of Opium in
China: Cambridge: Cambridge University Press; Heron C. 2003. Booze:
A Distilled History: Toronto: Between The Lines; Gately I. 2009. Drink:
A Cultural History of Alcohol: New York: Gotham Books.
11. Mitchell T. 2004. Intoxicated Identities: Alcohol Power in Mexican History
and Culture: London: routledge: p. 6.
12. Klein r. 1993. Cigarettes Are Sublime: London: Duke University Press.
13. Klein r. 1993: p. 2.
14. Veblen T. 1889/1994. The Theory of the Leisure Class: New York: Dover
Publications Inc.
15. Bourdieu P. 1984/2010. Distinction: A Social Critique of the Judgment of
Taste: London: routledge.
16. Baudrillard J. 2003. ‘The Ideological Genesis of Needs’, in (eds.) Clarke
D. B., Doel M., and Housiaux K. The Consumption Reader: London:
routledge: pp. 255–259.
17. Baudrillard J. 2003: p. 256.
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18. de Certeau M. 2003. ‘The Practice of Everyday Life’, in (eds.) Clarke
D. B., Doel M., and Housiaux K. The Consumption Reader: London:
routledge: pp. 259–267.
19. de Certeau M. 2003: p. 259.
20. de Certeau M. 2003: p. 260.
Open Access This chapter is licensed under the terms of the Creative Commons
Attribution 4.0 International License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/
by/4.0/), which permits use, sharing, adaptation, distribution and reproduction
in any medium or format, as long as you give appropriate credit to the original
author(s) and the source, provide a link to the Creative Commons license and
indicate if changes were made.
The images or other third party material in this chapter are included in the
chapter’s Creative Commons license, unless indicated otherwise in a credit line
to the material. If material is not included in the chapter’s Creative Commons
license and your intended use is not permitted by statutory regulation or exceeds
the permitted use, you will need to obtain permission directly from the copyright
holder.
PArT I
Drinkers
This part contains four chapters that consider the way that Victorian
alcohol consumers were imagined and represented in political discourse.
The chapters draw upon the rich, qualitative and quantitative data found
in the various parliamentary enquiries on alcohol that took place in the
second half of the nineteenth century. At these enquiries, expert witnesses offered testimonies and opinions on the causes and consequences
of alcohol consumption, often revealing the fears and prejudices that surrounded issues of drunkenness. Yet the witnesses also described the many
different types of drinking behaviour that ranged across social class, gender, occupation, ethnicity and regional location.
CHAPTEr 2
The Spectre of the Drunkard
The issue of drunkenness cast a long shadow over the Victorian period
and effectively masked ideas about the social benefits or pleasures to
be gained from alcohol consumption. Ideas about the drunkard fuelled
political and moral debates about the extent of liquor controls in Britain
and drunkenness was the bane of the drink trade; leading to political organisation and the formation of trade defence leagues later in the
period. As ideas about the causes and extent of drunkenness changed, so
too did the proposed solutions and in the last quarter of the nineteenth
century, the parliamentary enquiries came thick and fast as the drink
question topped political agendas.
This chapter provides an overview of the political responses to the
issues of drunkenness in the Victorian period. The common enemy
of both the state and the drink trade was the drunkard—a figure that
emerged from public fears and moral concern about the drinking culture of the urban working classes which was constantly on public show—
spilling onto the streets of industrial cities and towns, threatening public
order and obstructing social and moral progress. By the late nineteenth
century, the drunkard was believed to dwell not only on city streets, prisons and workhouses but also in asylums and hospitals. Although thought
to exist mainly among the labouring population, the drunkard did not
respect other social boundaries and breached gender, region, age, religion and ethnicity. The drunkard was viewed as a social pest and a danger to civilised and progressive society but perhaps most notably, the
drunkard posed a very real threat to the majority of moderate drinkers
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https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-92964-4_2
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because the political measures taken to thwart intemperance affected
everyone. Towards the end of the century, as the grip of tighter licensing
laws took hold, the drink trade made efforts to legitimise their existence
as a vital and respectable part of British society.
THE LEGISLATIVE JIGSAW
The 1899 report of the royal Commission on Liquor Licensing Laws
contained a summary of the various parliamentary commissions on
alcohol held during the nineteenth century.1 The summary report was
commissioned by Lord Peel (1829–1912) who chaired the enquiry for
most of its duration from 1897 to 1899. David fahey notes that Peel’s
appointment was mainly due to his reputation for impartiality but during the course of the enquiry, for some unknown reason, he underwent ‘a drastic conversion to temperance principles.’2 Peel’s conversion
split the committee who then produced two reports that differed over
their recommendations for reducing the numbers of public houses and
granting compensation for loss of licenses. By the end of the nineteenth
century, the drink question must have seemed like a legislative jigsaw
puzzle composed of a succession of ill-fitting political strategies. Peel
perhaps regarded it as his task to make a decisive impact upon the confusion of liquor licensing and in order to do so, he enlisted the skills of
Mr r. A. Smith, an archaeologist at the British Museum. Exactly why he
chose an archaeologist for this job is unclear. However, Smith’s task was
to review the various parliamentary enquiries on alcohol sale, licensing
and intemperance which spanned the course of the century.
Smith’s survey began in 1817 with the Select committee on the State
of Metropolitan Police and the Licensing of Victuallers and ended in
1888 with the Select Committee on Sunday Closing Acts. During that
time, there were 28 parliamentary enquiries into the issues surrounding
alcohol sale and consumption in England, Wales, Scotland and Northern
Ireland.3 Each major enquiry was subjected to a meticulous analysis,
which formed part of a concise overview of the political process relating to alcohol throughout most of the nineteenth century. The report
showed that by the end of the century, intemperance remained a pressing political issue despite numerous enquiries and legislative attempts to
control the drink trade and limit alcohol consumption. Yet Peel did not
believe that this marked any kind of failure in the political process. On
2 THE SPECTrE Of THE DrUNKArD
15
the contrary, he believed that Smith’s report highlighted the important
work done by parliamentary enquires
It is commonly asserted that such enquiries never result in anything.
Anyone at all familiar with the liquor laws and their history, who will
glance at these pages, will see how wide of the truth these assertions are;
even from the point of view of those who regard immediate legislation as
the only test, and forget the work done, sometimes constructive, sometimes beneficially destructive, in the formation and education of opinion.4
Peel had faith in the political process and the summary report was perhaps intended as a testament to the complexity and thoroughness of the
parliamentary investigations into the issues that surrounded the sale and
consumption of alcohol. from a historical perspective, Smith’s report
is not only useful in providing a concise chronological summary of the
main parliamentary enquiries but also as a means of identifying and situating the issues that surrounded the drink question and the various solutions proposed over the course of the century (see Appendix for the full
table of enquiries).
The report began in 1818 when it was felt that the major brewers
held a monopoly of tied (brewery owned) public houses in England and
Wales and as a consequence, the public were forced to buy poor quality, over-priced beer and spirits. The solution was The 1830 Beer Act
which was intended to weaken the position of the major brewers, discourage spirit drinking and promote the sale and consumption of better quality beer. However, this was a tall order considering the tempting
and plentiful supply of cheap beer and spirits available to the burgeoning working classes within industrial towns and cities. The failure of the
Beer Act to tackle intemperance was a constant theme during The 1834
Select Committee on Intoxication Among the Labouring Classes. It
was believed that working-class drunkenness was the result of ingrained
and problematic drinking customs; this belief essentially placed excessive drinking as a central feature of working-class life. The Beer Act was
thought to have exacerbated drunkenness because it led to the proliferation of pubs and cheaper drinks. Therefore, the solutions proposed
by the 1834 Committee were to limit access to alcohol by reducing pub
numbers, regulating licensing and promoting alternative drinks such as
tea and coffee. These were fairly radical recommendations for the time
as they ran counter to laissez-faire principles and the rights of ‘free men’
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T. HANDS
to drink whatever and whenever they chose. However, the recommendations were, in Peel’s opinion at least, the result of a thorough investigation of the drink problem, which he believed some of the later
committees had failed to achieve. The parliamentary committees of the
1850s and 1860s had to deal with different aspects of the drink question
and if their investigations and recommendations appeared weak to Peel,
it was perhaps because they were in a sense dealing with a new set of
problems that came in the wake of The 1830 Beer Act.
By mid-century, it was no longer a case of blaming drunkenness
on the customs of the working classes or on the practices of brewers.
Instead, drunkenness was explicitly linked to increases in poverty, crime
and disorder among the working classes. Industrialisation and urbanisation had created new drinking cultures, and the Beer Act was instrumental in this process. It was believed that since the 1830s, there were
more pubs of poorer quality and more ‘bad characters’ drinking than
ever before.5 The Beer Act had forged a distinction between beerhouses
and pubs selling beer and spirits, which in turn fuelled competition to
sell even more cheap spirits and beer to working-class populations. The
solutions proposed were to tighten and simplify the licensing system
and to also promote counter attractions for the working classes to steer
them away from drunkenness and point them towards the sober pastimes
offered by rational recreation.
The mid-century climate of moral improvement was evident in the
1850s and 1860s parliamentary commissions that examined the licensing system. By this time, the temperance movement was at its peak and
drunkenness was encased within a moral framework but this was a framework still supported by laissez-faire ideology which favoured freedom
of commerce. In effect, people had the absolute right to sell and consume alcohol but getting drunk was viewed as an individual moral failing. The type of alcohol consumed by the industrial working classes was
also a cause of concern and spirit drinking in particular was singled out
as a pernicious cause of intemperance. Therefore, one of the aims of The
1860 Wine and refreshment Houses Act was to promote the sale and
consumption of wine, which was not only less intoxicating than spirits
but was also believed to promote more ‘civilised’ drinking habits.
However, by the 1870s drunkenness among the urban working classes
was thought to prevail and it was no longer just a moral failing or a cause
of crime and poverty but it was also believed to cause physical and mental illness.6 With the weight of this added problem, the drink question
2 THE SPECTrE Of THE DrUNKArD
17
sank beneath the buoyancy of laissez faire. At a political level there was
a pressing need to reform the licensing system, rein in the power of the
drink trade and ‘rescue’ the working classes from the moral and physical ravages of intemperance. As Harrison notes, The 1872 Licensing Act
may have marked a minor victory for the temperance movement but it
did not erase the issue of intemperance, which carried on regardless until
the tighter licensing restrictions brought in during the first World War.7
However, the parliamentary enquiries after 1872 were no longer constrained to the same extent by laissez faire—the state had already taken
its first major step towards tighter control of alcohol sale and consumption. The main question driving the parliamentary enquiries after 1872
was the extent to which those controls should impinge upon the rights
to sell and consume alcohol.
By the time that Peel chaired the 1897 commission, there was a vast
array of proposed reforms to the licensing system ranging across a spectrum of direct state control of the alcohol trade to stepping up local
powers to control licensing. As James Nicholls notes, the sheer number
of proposed schemes was staggering but it was indicative of the general
push towards restricting the trade in alcohol.8 The drunkard had not
exactly disappeared but was instead reimagined as the undesirable and
often detestable product of a morally questionable profit-driven industry.
Therefore, increasingly, the drink trade fell under the spotlight of public
and political scrutiny for its culpability in creating the social problems
associated with drunkenness. This was evident in another parliamentary enquiry held at the end of the century. In 1895 The Departmental
Committee on Habitual Offenders (Scotland) dealt extensively with
issues related to drunkenness in towns and cities across Scotland. Police
statistics showed higher levels of drink-related crime in Scotland as compared to England and one of the committee’s tasks was to investigate
the causes of drink-related crime. There was the suggestion that policing
tactics varied, and that in England, the lower number of arrests could
be due to more lax procedures for dealing with drunkenness.9 However
some witnesses pointed the finger of blame towards publicans who continued to supply alcohol to drunken people
There are some publicans—perhaps we can hardly say a majority or
minority—who are very conscientious but there are others that are not
so. There is no doubt that publicans know drunkards who go in and get
drunk week after week. They are known to the police, to their neighbours,
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T. HANDS
and to the publicans to be drunkards and yet they are supplied in these
houses till they are drunk.10
Throughout that enquiry, Scottish publicans constantly came under
scrutiny as a potential source of drink-related crime and public disorder.
Scotland seemed to have a more widespread problem with drunkenness
and the drink trade was held to account. It therefore became necessary
for the trade to mount a defence against further political and legislative
‘attacks’ and promote its business as both vital and respectable. Above all
it had to distance itself from the drunkard.
A
THE PROBLEMS OF PROMOTING
‘HAPPINESS INDUCING BUSINESS’
In the late Victorian period, Scottish alcohol producers and retailers
formed local and national trade defence organisations. One of the ways
to promote and protect business interests was through the publication
of weekly or monthly trade journals. In Scotland three of the prominent
trade journals were The Scottish Wine, Beer and Spirits Trades Review,
The Victualing Trades Review and The National Guardian, all of which
circulated from around the 1880s onwards. The main purpose of these
journals was to harness interest and support in trade defence activities
and to promote and advertise local and national businesses. The journals
also reported on national drink issues such as parliamentary enquiries
on alcohol, legislation and temperance campaigning. What really stands
out from the journals is the absolute conviction that the drink trade was
unfairly targeted because it was a legitimate and respectable business
which served the public and generated substantial revenue for the nation.
There was however no escaping the fact that it was a business that dealt
in the somewhat controversial realm of intoxication. An article on ‘why
people drink’ in The National Guardian in 1913 described the act of
consuming alcohol as ‘a happiness inducing business’ and this in essence
captures the way the drink trade aimed to be perceived both internally
and externally.11
One of the themes that arose constantly within the journals was the
allegedly ‘ludicrous’ and ‘fanatical’ standpoint of the temperance movement, particularly the teetotal faction. Articles that reported on temperance meetings or rallies did so with a mercilessly scathing and hostile
2 THE SPECTrE Of THE DrUNKArD
19
tone. An article on the Scottish temperance societies in The National
Guardian in 1904 launched an attack on the perceived failings of the
temperance movement. After sixty years of campaigning, drunkenness
prevailed and it was felt that the movement had achieved little more
than to ‘denounce the publican and pass the drunkard by.’12 The 1902
Licensing Act had, of course, ramped up the restrictive nature of alcohol
sale and control. Most importantly, the act put the onus on publicans
and retailers to control the sale of drink and stem drunkenness within
their establishments. It was felt that this singled out publicans as the purveyors of social evils
Outside of fanaticism, every-one knows that licenses in the hands of
respectable men, who respect the law and are respected by it, are legitimate
and necessary, and their holding a respectable and necessary vocation.13
The counter-argument to the teetotal view was that the sale of drink
was a legitimate and necessary vocation and a respectable one at that.
The trade journals were therefore driven to promote and advertise the
positive side of the liquor trade. An article in The Scottish Wine, Beer
and Spirits Trades Review in 1895 reported on the annual festival of
the Glasgow Wine, Beer and Spirits Trades Employees Benevolent
Association. The main speech, given by Mr George MacLauchlan, the
Vice President of the Association, focused on the ‘slander of temperance
extremists’
A Trade the capital embarked in which exceeds 2 million Sterling; a Trade
contributing to the revenue of the country to an extent of 40 million; a
Trade funding employment for about 2 million of our population cannot
be ignored and which commands imperative public recognition. What
other trade in Glasgow contributes to any such extent? None … It is with
sobriety, education and intelligence that out Trade prospers and can only
prosper. The curse of our Trade is the drunkard, the friend - the sober
(applause). I admit there are men so constituted that they cannot, without
serious consequences, taste alcohol at all. These are the small and numerically trifling exception, although it is the example furnished by them that
is seized upon by our opponents as warranting an attack upon our Trade
thereby falsifying alike logic and reason.14
MacLauchlan gave a rousing speech which delivered a strong argument and raised some key questions: if the local and national economy
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T. HANDS
benefitted from the sale of alcohol, why the lack of gratitude? And if
the majority of consumers drank in a moderate and respectable fashion,
why attribute drunkenness to the liquor trade? Surely that was evidence
enough that the trade served the public in a responsible way. Yet the one
damning thing that made all that irrelevant was the very thing that kept
the liquor trade afloat: alcohol. There simply was no way to guarantee
that an intoxicant that came in so many varieties and strengths could
always be consumed in a moderate and respectable fashion—the spectre
of the drunkard was proof of that.
It was also difficult for ‘respectable’ members of the liquor trade to
avoid the shadow cast by the disreputable side of the business. Therefore,
many articles in the trade journals, particularly after 1900, dealt with the
issues of unlicensed shebeens and bogus drinking clubs. One article in
The Victualing Trades Review in 1904 offered an expose on a bogus club
in Glasgow’s East End. It claimed that there were around 200 bogus
drinking clubs operating in Glasgow and that most sold cheap ‘raw’
whisky and poor quality beer. The clubs opened after the pubs closed
on Saturdays and Sundays and remained open until the small hours of
the morning. The article reported on a club known as The Literary and
Social Institution in which it claimed there was:
… no literature, and the social intercourse of the members lay principally in discussions as to what would win the ‘back-end’ handicap at
Newmarket, forthcoming prize fights and the like. If heavy drinking
counts as social intercourse, then the club really fulfilled to the hilt one of
its missions for I have seen more liquor put away here in a couple of hours
than would be sold over the bar in a small public house in a day.15
As a consequence of increasingly restrictive licensing and forced reductions in pub numbers, the trade knew that in order to survive, it had to
be seen to operate in a respectable manner. It was therefore important
to differentiate and distance themselves from disreputable vendors and
drunken customers. Another article in The National Guardian in 1908
explored the issue of publicans and intemperance
The publican alone, among merchants, habitually refuses undesirable business and he necessarily regards his drunken customer with aversion. He
does not wish such to enter his shop … respectable people will not frequent a bar patronized by the vicious and disorderly and in order to keep
2 THE SPECTrE Of THE DrUNKArD
21
his respectable customers pleased and content, the proprietor discourages
traffic with obnoxious characters.16
A well-run establishment serving respectable, moderate-drinking customers was the trade ideal and this was precisely the image that publicans
and licensed victuallers endeavoured to cultivate and promote both publicly and within their own ranks. Still, there was no escaping the ‘threat’
of drunkenness posed by the substance they dealt in. So, it was also
important that alcohol itself was regarded not as a dangerous intoxicant
but rather as a benign social lubricant. The trade journals carried many
articles that promoted the social side of drinking by reporting on different pubs, drinking occasions and drinking customs in different countries.
A piece in The Victualing Trades Review from 1900 listed the ‘drinks
of great men’ and included Otto von Bismarck the German Chancellor
who, as a ‘staunch patriot’ was known to drink mainly German beer and
German wine. Gladstone drank claret and port and used a mix of sherry
and egg yolk as a ‘vocal lubricant’ before public speaking, and Balfour
preferred port.17 The light-hearted tone of the piece did not disguise its
intent to promote alcohol consumption as an intrinsic attribute found
among ‘great men’. There were few teetotallers listed and much use was
made of the term ‘moderate drinking’.
A constant theme throughout the years leading up to 1914 was the
issue of why people consumed alcohol at all and it was vital that the trade
devised reasons for drinking other than getting drunk. This was particularly the case in Scotland with the passing of The Temperance (Scotland)
Act in 1913, which gave local voters the right to withhold licenses to
sell alcohol in their districts. The looming threat of local veto meant
that there had to be good reasons for drinking alcohol. An article in The
National Guardian in 1913 written by ‘a medical man’ explored the
psychological effects of alcohol
What the vast majority of persons who drink alcohol drink do it for is not
because they like the taste of it, nor because they are thirsty, but for what
is sometimes called its physiological effect, but what ought to be called its
psychological effect—that is to say, in plain terms, because it makes them
feel jolly. It raises their spirits. It confers happiness. It gives them a good
conceit of themselves. Is it any wonder that it is so much valued by the
English, who are so wanting in this useful sentiment? … if it is taken regularly and always with the same moderation, although the full euphoric
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T. HANDS
effect is not produced, some effect is produced; and the regular imbiber
of moderate doses of alcohol is so much better off than the abstainer that
though he does not attain the hilarious exhilaration of his first dose, he yet
reaches a placid contentment, a good natured geniality.18
It was important for the trade to identify and promote the positive
aspects of alcohol consumption. These could be social uses in dining
and conviviality or drinking healths and toasts. Or as this quote demonstrates, alcohol could have the psychological effect of ‘lifting the spirits’
or making people ‘feel jolly.’ However, the key to securing the continued fortunes of the trade in alcohol lay in the direction of moderate
drinking. This was known to the trade and also to alcohol consumers,
as demonstrated by the formation of The National Temperate Society in
Manchester in 1907. The society was formed to ‘combat the uncalled
for interference with the liberties of citizens who choose to indulge to a
moderate extent in alcoholic liquors.’19 The Manchester Courier reported
on the activities of the society, which by 1907 had 700 members who
embarked on ‘missionary work’ in local pubs to try and induce customers to form branches
That class of the community known as ‘moderate drinkers’, men who after
a day’s work enjoy an hour or two’s social intercourse on licensed premises, have discovered that their rights were being menaced, and in one part
of Manchester have banded themselves together under the title of The
National Temperate Society with the object of resisting any unreasonable
interference with the liberty of pleasing themselves.20
In the shadow cast by the spectre of the drunkard, drink became a political issue and by the turn of the century, the principles of laissez faire no
longer supported an industry that dealt in intoxication. Increased state
control over alcohol sale and consumption impacted not only upon the
livelihoods and reputation of the drink trade but also on alcohol consumers and as the quote above demonstrates, some were prepared
to campaign for the freedom to drink. The members of the National
Temperate Society argued that not all paths led to rome—in other
words, not every drinker was a drunkard. There were many reasons why
people across Britain consumed alcohol and many different types of
drinking behaviour, other than drunkenness.
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23
NOTES
1. House of Commons Parliamentary Papers (HCPP). 1899: c. 9076: royal
Commission on Liquor Licensing Laws: Volume XI: Précis of Minutes
of Evidence: Appendix 5: Summary reports from royal, Select and
Departmental Committees on the liquor traffic in Great Britain and
Ireland.
2. fahey D. 1971. ‘Temperance and the Liberal Party—Lord Peel’s report,
1899’: Journal of British Studies: Volume 10:2: p. 135.
3. HCPP. 1899: c. 9076: royal Commission on Liquor Licensing Laws:
Volume XI: Précis of Minutes of Evidence: Appendix 5.
4. HCPP. 1899: c. 9076: royal Commission on Liquor Licensing Laws:
Volume XI: Précis of Minutes of Evidence: Appendix 5.
5. HCPP. 1899: c. 9076: royal Commission on Liquor Licensing Laws:
Volume XI: Précis of Minutes of Evidence: Appendix 5.
6. HCPP. 1899: c. 9076: royal Commission on Liquor Licensing Laws:
Volume XI: Précis of Minutes of Evidence: Appendix 5.
7. Harrison B. 1971. Drink and the Victorians: The Temperance Question in
England 1815–1872: London: faber & faber: p. 12.
8. Nicholls J. 2011. The Politics of Alcohol: A History of the Drink Question in
England: Manchester: Manchester University Press: pp. 130–131.
9. HCCP. 1897. The Departmental Commission on Habitual Offenders
(Scotland): p. vi.
10. HCCP. 1897. The Departmental Commission on Habitual Offenders
(Scotland): Testimony of father John McMillan: p. 74.
11. ‘Why Do People Take Alcohol?’ The National Guardian: January 1913.
12. ‘Why Do People Take Alcohol?’ The National Guardian: January 1913.
13. ‘Why Do People Take Alcohol?’ The National Guardian: January 1913.
14. ‘Wine, Spirits and Beer Trades Employees festival’: The Scottish Wine,
Spirit and Beer Trades Review: 1895.
15. ‘Sunday in a Drinking Club: The Unlicensed Pub’: The Victualing Trades
Review: 1904.
16. ‘Publicans and Intemperance’: The National Guardian: April 1908.
17. ‘The Drinks of Great Men’: The Victualing Trades Review: 1900.
18. ‘Drunkenness and the Physiological Effect of Alcohol’: The National
Guardian: January 1913.
19. ‘Moderate Drinkers: To Combat Teetotal Intolerance’: The Manchester
Courier and Lancashire General Advertiser: 11 April 1907.
20. ‘Moderate Drinkers: To Combat Teetotal Intolerance’: The Manchester
Courier and Lancashire General Advertiser: 11 April 1907.
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T. HANDS
Open Access This chapter is licensed under the terms of the Creative Commons
Attribution 4.0 International License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/
by/4.0/), which permits use, sharing, adaptation, distribution and reproduction
in any medium or format, as long as you give appropriate credit to the original
author(s) and the source, provide a link to the Creative Commons license and
indicate if changes were made.
The images or other third party material in this chapter are included in the
chapter’s Creative Commons license, unless indicated otherwise in a credit line
to the material. If material is not included in the chapter’s Creative Commons
license and your intended use is not permitted by statutory regulation or exceeds
the permitted use, you will need to obtain permission directly from the copyright
holder.
CHAPTEr 3
The Great Army of Drinkers
There can be no doubt that the great majority of those who purchase and
consume liquor are not guilty of intoxication, nor are the places where it
is sold by any means so universally the scenes of drunkenness and disorder as to call for their universal suppression on that ground alone. It does
not seem therefore either just or expedient that the perfectly moderate and
harmless purchase and use of liquor by the majority of persons should be
prevented because there are some who abuse the purchase and use of it to
their own hurt and that of others.1
The Licensing Acts of 1869 and 1872 marked a turning point in British
alcohol history. Laissez-faire policies were to some extent set aside
because a greater degree of state control was considered necessary to
prevent drunkenness and public disorder. Yet as the quote above shows,
it was the nature and extent of alcohol controls that fuelled political
debates and parliamentary enquiries in the late nineteenth century. The
quote comes from the report of The Select Committee on Intemperance,
which was appointed in 1877 to review the effects of the restrictive
measures imposed by the Licensing Acts. Although the committee heard
evidence of drunkenness across towns and cities in Britain, it rejected
calls from temperance campaigners for strict licensing restrictions or for
outright prohibition. The committee believed there were no grounds for
such extreme measures because the majority of people drank moderately.
In an analysis of the political manoeuvres of temperance campaigners,
James Nicholls states that ‘standing between radical teetotallers and the
© The Author(s) 2018
T. Hands, Drinking in Victorian and Edwardian Britain,
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-92964-4_3
25
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T. HANDS
sober millennium was an enormous army of moderate drinkers for whom
teetotal reclamation meant nothing.’2 In other words, moral suasion and
legislative controls did little to deter the majority of people from consuming alcohol. A great army of drinkers was a force to be reckoned
with—not only for temperance campaigners and politicians but also for
the drink trade. In a political battle between government and commerce
over alcohol control, consumers were not mere pawns of war. Instead,
they were the agents of victory for either side. Therefore, gaining knowledge of this army of drinkers held enormous political value.
This chapter examines the efforts made at a political level to investigate the majority of drinkers in the late Victorian period. One of
the richest sources of information on alcohol consumers lies within the
reports of various parliamentary enquiries on alcohol held during the
second half of the nineteenth century. During these enquiries, witnesses
from across Britain gave detailed accounts of drinking within their towns,
cities and districts. A close reading of the minutes of evidence reveals
that alcohol consumers were imagined and represented in different ways
at different times, often reflecting the changing social and cultural context of alcohol sale and consumption. The chapter draws upon evidence
from four major parliamentary enquiries on alcohol in the latter half of
the nineteenth century: The 1853 Select Committee on Public Houses
(1853 enquiry), which was appointed to investigate the regulation of
drinking establishments created in the wake of The 1830 Beer Act; The
1872 Select Committee on Habitual Drunkards (1872 enquiry) which
examined the existing laws on the control of drunkenness; The 1877
Select Committee on Intemperance (1877 enquiry) which was appointed
to investigate the causes and extent of intemperance across Britain and
The 1897 royal Commission on Liquor Licensing (1897 enquiry) which
examined the laws relating to the sale and consumption of alcohol.
Another important enquiry on alcohol was The 1890 Select Committee
on British and foreign Spirits (1890 enquiry), which was appointed in
the interests of public health to examine the system for the manufacture
and sale of spirits.
These enquires provide rich sources of qualitative and quantitative
information on alcohol consumers. This evidence must however be
weighed against the political nature of the enquiries. The reports could
to some extent be regarded as discourses of alcohol consumption, which
provide a distorted ‘top-down’ account of alcohol consumers framed
by political motives and moral concerns about intemperance. Yet it is
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27
important to consider that many committee members were themselves
alcohol consumers and often the line of questioning reveals as much
about their ideas as the evidence given by witnesses. A close reading of
the minutes of evidence reveals insights into ideas about the majority of
alcohol consumers—who they were, what they drank and where they
drank and how ideas about moderate drinking and drunkenness changed
over time. This chapter considers the extent to which these ideas about
drinkers, drinks and drinking places shaped impressions of alcohol
consumers.
‘IS THERE ANYTHING AMONG
THE WORKING CLASSES LIKE A MODERATE DRINKER’?
The parliamentary enquiries on alcohol in the last half of the nineteenth
century largely focused on investigating issues of intemperance primarily
but not exclusively among the working classes. During the 1877 enquiry,
one of the committee members asked Joseph Chamberlain, then an
MP for Birmingham ‘We hear a great deal about moderate drinkers; is
there anything among the working classes like a moderate drinker; that
is to say, is there anything as a rule in the way of a medium between a
teetotaller and a man going utterly into drink?’3 In reply to the question, Chamberlain stated that in his opinion there were many cases of
‘occasional drunkards’ and that habitual drunkards were a small minority in any social class. Yet he went on to provide evidence from a study
on Saturday night drinking in Birmingham conducted by The UK
Alliance, a prominent temperance organisation. The study showed that
on one Saturday night alone, 14,165 people came out of 35 pubs during the three hours of observation and that 838 of those were deemed
drunk. Chamberlain argued that the study highlighted the weakness in
police statistics which under-represented the extent of drunkenness in
larger cities. He stated that the drunkenness observed on that Saturday
night was 1500 times greater than the drunken arrests recorded on the
same night.4 It was perhaps Chamberlain’s aim to present evidence of
widespread drinking among the working classes and therefore it did not
matter if the Saturday night pub goers in Birmingham were moderate
drinkers or habitual drunkards. Nor did the fact that 14,165 people were
drinking on a Saturday night yet only 838 were deemed drunk which
meant that over 13,000 pub goers remained relatively sober. Temperance
advocates recorded the numbers of what they believed to be drunk
28
T. HANDS
people leaving pubs. The committee cross-examined Chamberlain on the
reliability of a study conducted by temperance campaigners who were
unlikely to be impartial when classifying drunkenness. Just how they classified drunkenness is unclear but it is likely to have been along the lines
of ‘falling down drunk’ and since most people leaving the pubs were not
showing visible signs of falling-down drunkenness, it could have reasonably been argued that most drank moderately. Yet this appeared to be less
important than the sheer numbers of drinkers.
The 1877 enquiry heard evidence from a range of witnesses from
urban and rural regions of Britain who described different types of drinking and drunkenness. The Chief Constable of Newcastle-upon-Tyne,
Captain Samuel James Nicholls gave evidence of drinking patterns in the
Newcastle area. Nicholls described the character of the Newcastle population as manufacturing and industrial—chiefly mechanical engineering, shipbuilding, coal mining and the chemical industries. He noted
that although Newcastle was a thriving industrial city, it was also prone
to frequent trade depressions. Nicholls described the pattern of working men’s drinking which centred on their working lives and hours of
employment. He believed that drinking was more of a ‘nuisance’ at the
weekend when men finished work at 1 p.m. on a Saturday then went
to the pub and drank away their wages until closing time. The drinking continued on a Sunday evening and all-day Monday, as many men
in Newcastle still observed the unofficial day-off work known as Saint
Monday. Nicholls described how miners in the region around Newcastle
would ‘come into the moor’ (which was a large section of common
ground on the outskirts of Newcastle) on Saturdays for sporting events
and then carry on to the local pubs in the evening. The miners would
take part in rabbit coursing which Nicholls described as ‘a very great nuisance to the respectable community, on account of the disgusting language used by competitors and their backers.’5 Although Nicholls found
the weekend leisure pursuits of Newcastle’s miners somewhat distasteful,
he linked their drinking habits to their type of employment. These were
men employed in heavy industries and although many of them drank
heavily at weekends, Nicholls believed that drunkenness was a problem
mainly confined to poorer sections of the working classes and that the
‘respectable classes’ were becoming more sober. It is not clear from his
evidence whether Nicholls’ considered the miners to be ‘respectable’ but
he did draw a distinction between heavy weekend drinking and the type
of drunkenness that resulted in crime or public disorder.
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29
The dichotomy thought to exist between the drinking habits of the
‘respectable’ and ‘rough’ working classes was also highlighted in the evidence given to the committee by a Preston magistrate Charles roger
Jackson. In the late nineteenth century, Preston was a manufacturing
and mining town with a large Irish population. Jackson’s evidence of the
drinking habits of the working-class population mirrored that of Nicholls
in that he believed most men drank at the weekends. The key difference
was that the mill workers did not observe Saint Monday and therefore
most drinking took place on the half-day Saturday holiday and Sunday
evening. Jackson presented evidence from the Preston Savings Bank
which detailed the employment status of depositors to make the point
that not all men’s wages were drunk away at the weekend. Most were
mill workers, followed by plasterers, railwaymen, policemen, labourers,
shopwomen, workwomen, milliners, book keepers, clerks, shopkeepers,
tradesmen, farmers, gardeners, spinsters, widows and married women.6
When asked for the point in presenting this evidence, Jackson replied
that it was to show that money was being saved and not spent on drink
and that not all of the working classes were frittering their wages away
on drink every week but that some, arguably the more ‘respectable’ sections, were either abstaining or drinking moderately.
The witness testimonies of the 1877 enquiry showed that drinking
was often an integral part of working men’s lives, particularly in heavy
industries, manufacturing and also in the armed services. The 1877
committee was keen to investigate the relationship that existed between
working life and drinking habits in order to assess how the numbers of
pubs and pub opening hours impacted upon the extent of intemperance.
Some witnesses believed that working-class men drank away their wages
at the weekend and that heavy drinking was the main reason for observing Saint Monday. However, there seemed to be a distinction drawn
between heavy drinking and drunkenness and although both were considered problematic, some witnesses implied that the worst problems of
drunkenness existed mainly among the lowest classes of society. In this
sense, heavy weekend drinking and indeed drinking during working
hours rested somewhere on a spectrum between moderate drinking and
drunkenness. The witnesses seemed to acknowledge that heavy drinking
was a part of working-class masculinity and therefore it was not viewed as
particularly deviant or immoral—unless it led to or involved other ‘social
evils’ such as gambling, domestic violence or prostitution. It appeared
that some men drank heavily but still held down jobs and supported
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families. A sober industrial workforce may have been the moral and political ideal, but the 1877 enquiry was dealing with the realities of working-class life and it is clear that on a political level it was understood that
working-class men’s drinking habits varied.
It seemed to be difficult to pin down one definition or type of drunkenness. One witness at the 1877 enquiry, John Matthias Weylland of
the London City Mission, reported on his observations of working-class
drinking from visiting pubs, gin palaces and dram shops in London
and from speaking with barmen, barwomen and customers. Weylland
had previously given evidence before the 1853 enquiry on his observations of pubs in and around the Marylebone area of London. for the
purposes of the 1877 enquiry, he revisited these pubs and noted any
changes. Weylland claimed that there was a marked increase in spirit
drinking among men and women, which he believed caused a ‘great deal
of drunkenness.’7 When asked by the committee to define drunkenness,
Weylland replied that he considered a man to be drunk when he had
lost his reason and was not capable of receiving instruction. He believed
that there was still a great deal of drinking among what he termed the
‘roughs’ or the ‘drinking class’ of London but that most ‘other’ working-class people were moderate drinkers.8 Another witness, Major John
Grieg who was the Chief Constable of Liverpool, was questioned about
the extent of drunkenness in the city. He presented statistics which
showed an overall increase in drunken arrests in the city from 11,439
in 1857 to 20,551 in 1876.9 However, there were fluctuations in the
numbers of arrests during this period. When asked to account for these
fluctuations Grieg pointed towards the maritime population of Liverpool
The floating population are, upon average, 20,000 seamen, increased by
a west wind and decreased by an east wind. The docks are at our doors
and the sailors come home, frequently with large arrears of pay to receive,
which they spend thoughtlessly and most wickedly, I should say.10
Grieg argued that the west wind brought in more ships and sailors who
had money to spend on leisure activities that mainly involved alcohol
and prostitutes. The pubs, beer houses and brothels situated around
the Liverpool docks area made their livelihoods from catering to the
demands and desires of the maritime population. A west wind may have
blown in more drunkenness but Grieg seemed aware that it was a transient and in some ways an inevitable consequence of Liverpool’s status as
3 THE GrEAT ArMY Of DrINKErS
31
a major port. This perhaps required a more pragmatic approach to policing drunkenness. When cross-examined on the types of drunken arrests,
Grieg was asked to explain the category of ‘semi-drunkenness’ which
appeared in the police statistics. He defined ‘semi drunkenness’ as being
drunk but not sufficiently drunk to be locked up and explained that in
some cases, people were apprehended and taken to the station where
they would either sober up en route and go home or they would sober
up in the police station. In either case they would be released without
charge. This practice was not confined to Liverpool alone and witnesses
from other parts of Britain gave evidence of cases of ‘simple’ drunkenness that were not considered to be criminal and therefore not a matter
for the police. Indeed, Grieg stated that any officer who was found to
have locked up a person unnecessarily was dealt with ‘severely’.11 The
Chief Constable of Birmingham, Major Edwin Bond went further and
argued that legislation and over-policing of drunkenness could in fact
worsen the problem
If instead of letting people have their natural refreshment in the way of
their beer and their wine, we are constantly to be legislating upon the
subject and damming it up into narrower limits, it will lead to very much
worse troubles. I believe we should have secret drinking all round.12
Major Bond also believed that there was a difference between ‘quietly
drunk’ and ‘drunk and disorderly’ and when asked what measures were
taken by his constables to deal with a drunken man he stated that ‘we do
not say anything to him if he does not say anything to anybody else.’13
Another witness at the 1877 enquiry, Superintendent George Turner of
the London Constabulary was asked to tell the committee what he called
‘really drunk’ and Turner replied
There are so many degrees of drunkenness, that I can hardly define it; but
if a man is staggering and he can go home, we let him go. I should say that
man was drunk, but if he could walk straight and reasonable, I should say
he was ‘influenced’ but not drunk.14
Turner was told reproachfully by the committee that he held ‘a very high
standard of drunkenness.’15 However this kind of pragmatic approach to
policing drunkenness perhaps saved police time and resources. The evidence from the police also highlights the difficulties that people had in
32
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pinning down one universal definition of drunkenness. There was a sense
that ideas about drunkenness varied regionally and that different constabularies had their own methods for dealing with drunkards. It seemed important to allow men to go about their business if they were not deemed to be
a public nuisance. In a sense, this seemed to be protecting the rights of the
majority of men to go out and have a drink without fear of being locked up.
This issue of police interference in drinking habits was, of course,
part of the larger debate about the liberty to drink versus state control.
Although the parliamentary committees were established primarily to
investigate issues of intemperance, any legislation enacted would affect
the majority of drinkers. It sometimes fell to committee members to represent the views of the majority of drinkers by cross-examining pro-temperance witnesses. One example of this was the question and answer
exchange that occurred during the 1877 enquiry when the reverend
D Burns of The UK Alliance (a national temperance association) was
questioned by the Bishop of Peterborough, William Magee, who held
anti-temperance views.16 When asked by Magee if he would interfere with the liberty of a man to drink alcohol in his own house, Burns
replied that he would not. Magee seemed dissatisfied with this response
and prodded him further
Magee: You would not pass a law that he should only drink at certain hours
in his own house?
Burns: No.
Magee: And you would not send a policeman to see whether he drank
more than was good for him, or drank at improper hours?
Burns: No.
Magee: Why would you not do so; I presume the reason would be that you
respect the liberty of the individual?
Burns: Yes I would.
Magee: You would prefer that he should be free in his own house than be
sober?
Burns: I should prefer him being both.
Magee: Supposing that you could make or keep a man sober by sending a
policeman in and preventing his drinking, you would not do so because
that would be an interference with the liberty of the subject?
Burns: It would be utterly impractical to do so.
Magee: I am not asking whether it would be impracticable to do so, but
would you do it?
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33
Burns: I would not.
Magee: Therefore if the choice were between a man being drunk in his
own house and being kept sober by a visit from a policeman, you would
not send in your policeman to make him sober or keep him so; in other
words being compelled to choose, in that case you would rather leave
him free than force him to be sober; is that not so?
Burns: That would depend upon the circumstances. I do not think that
you can lay down any broad principle to that effect. If the people of this
country were so abusing this freedom of which your Lordship speaks,
and they were systematically getting drunk in their own houses and
thus destroying the State, I think measures of a very strong kind might
be desirable; and even that interference with personal liberty might be
desirable.
Magee: But there is no doubt that many persons do abuse their personal
liberty at this moment by getting drunk; do you propose that all persons sober as well as drunken, shall be put under the restraint of a
policeman, because of the conduct of these people in their own house?
Burns: Our Bill17 does not propose to do that.
Magee: But your Bill does propose to deprive sober people of their drink,
because of the abuse of drunken persons; do you propose to carry that
out or not?
Burns: We propose only to interfere as far as the law has the right to
interfere.18
This exchange highlights the extent to which ideas about the freedom to
drink were grounded in the division between public and private drinking.
One consequence of the reduced pub opening hours imposed by The
1869 and 1872 Licensing Acts, was the increased popularity of working
men’s clubs which were run by private members. These places were not
regulated by the licensing acts and for this reason, private members clubs
attracted the scorn of the drink trade and the wrath of temperance campaigners who viewed such establishments as stealing trade while promoting drunkenness among working men.19 Throughout the 1877 and 1897
enquiries, witnesses were asked for their opinions or experiences of working
men’s clubs and whether they considered these to be genuine and beneficial or ‘bogus’ establishments that operated as unlicensed pubs. Views were
mixed and some witnesses like Joseph Chamberlain argued that the working men’s clubs in Birmingham were respectably run places that provided
refreshments for men who worked late hours.20 Others witnesses at the
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1877 enquiry disagreed but the recommendations of the committee were
that no change in the law regarding private clubs was deemed necessary.21
By 1897 the issue of working men’s clubs lingered on. Witnesses such
as Sir John Bridge, a senior London magistrate, argued that bogus clubs
were a source of much illicit drinking.22 However one of the committee
members pointed out that the issue of private clubs was directed mainly
at the working classes yet these clubs permeated the class system.23 One
witness at the 1897 enquiry was Algernon Bourke who the manager
of Whites Club in London’s West End. In the late nineteenth century,
the London club scene was thriving and many gentlemen’s clubs situated around Pall Mall and St James’s were frequented by men in prominent positions such as the landed elites, politicians, businessmen and the
intelligentsia. Bourke was asked if the London clubs generated substantial amounts of income from the sale of liquor. He replied that this was
not the case and that clubs made most of their money from membership
fees.24 He claimed that although there was a large amount of alcohol
sold within clubs, the prices charged were moderate because clubs did
not pay any excise duties or license fees. He was then asked for his opinions on licensing private clubs and replied that a license would be unfair
to the men who used the London clubs ‘like a home’ because this would
restrict the hours of sale of alcohol. Bourke stated that in theory, Whites
could sell liquor all day and night but in practice this did not happen and
instead the club usually closed between 2 a.m. and 10 a.m. and any alcohol sold within these hours was by special arrangement only.25 He was
also asked if ‘intoxication’ had increased or decreased in the West End of
London (the word drunkenness was never used) and replied that in his
opinion there was a great decrease in drinking among the upper classes.
The issue of regulating private clubs was controversial because it was
a further infringement upon the personal liberty of men to drink alcohol
in private whenever they chose to do so. Working men’s clubs and gentlemen’s clubs were created through male alliances and as such they represented masculine spaces where men could escape from the public world
to socialise and drink alcohol in private. In essence, all the men-only private clubs delivered the same social goals. Political and moral concerns
about working-class drunkenness cast a shadow over the idea of working
men’s clubs. Yet it was never suggested that any of the London clubs
could ever be ‘bogus’ and merely operate as unlicensed pubs and gambling dens. Implicit in the evidence about working men’s and gentlemen’s clubs was the assumption that ‘genuine’ clubs fostered moderate
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35
and respectable drinking habits. In a highly patriarchal culture, all men—
including working-class men, had the right to socialise and drink in
private. Even when the Licensing Act of 1902 made it compulsory for
private clubs to be registered with local licensing authorities, this did not
bring men’s clubs into line with other licensed premises and therefore
meant that to some extent, private drinking was still protected by law.
The issue of genuine and bogus private members clubs was one of
many instances where the committee’s sought to investigate the differences between respectably run and disreputable drinking places. During
the 1897 enquiry, Sir John Bridge, a senior London Magistrate was
asked if he could single out the worst types of pubs and beer shops.
Bridge replied that he could not attach drunkenness to any particular
drinking place, either licensed or illicit. However, another London magistrate, Alfred de rutzen, believed that certain types of pubs encouraged more drunkenness. To illustrate his point, he gave an example of a
London pub which by its design encouraged anonymous and sometimes
illicit drinking
I went down to see it and I saw this state of things, which rather astonished me. The particular bar or compartment in which this man had been
served was shut off from the bar by high sides, and between the bar and
the compartment was an erection of dark glass through which nobody
could see, and the consequence was that the people who were being served
in the compartment could not see over it, and the only way you could see
under it was through a little opening which was exactly the height of a
quart pot through which any drink might be handed out and the money
taken. As a matter of fact, nobody could see any single person who was in
the bar and therefore almost any offence might have been committed, such
as serving children or serving a policeman, serving spirits to young people under 16, and almost every single offence of that sort could have been
committed without any human being who was serving in the bar seeing
anybody.26
Many late Victorian pubs were designed with compartments or separate
bars that offered some degree of privacy for customers. for example,
public bars sometimes contained compartments for the sale of liquor to
be consumed off the premises and women sometimes drank in private
closed-off bars.27 Gin palaces, gin shops, vaults and dram shops were
designed with less seating to attract high turnovers of customers, who
drank quickly and left. Some witnesses regarded the profusion of pubs in
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cities and towns not as forming an integral and ‘normal’ part of daily life
but rather as providing an escape from it.
A common theme running through the various parliamentary enquiries was that the working classes and particularly the poor were driven to
drink through poor housing, poverty and a generally miserable existence.
In the 1877 enquiry, John Bremner, a Manchester magistrate stated that
in his opinion, the greatest numbers of pubs in Manchester were situated in the poorest areas with the worst types of housing.28 Another witness at that enquiry, William Sproston Caine went further and argued
that there was a direct link between the numbers of pubs and the death
rates in certain areas of Liverpool.29 Caine was a Liberal MP and fervent
pro-temperance campaigner who held radical views on prohibition. He
presented a map to the committee detailing the numbers of pubs and
death rates in certain areas. When cross-examined by a somewhat sceptical sounding committee member who pointed out that death rates in
poor areas may be linked to wider socio-economic factors, Caine stuck
to his guns and argued that drinking, and particularly the trade in drink,
caused death among the working classes.30 The pro-temperance witnesses tended to give the most radical and in some cases, sensationalist
accounts of the ‘evils’ of the drink trade. One witness, Alfred Eccles,
a cotton mill owner from Salford, claimed that his village of White
Coppice which in 1877 had no pubs or beer shops, was a prime example
of the tragedies that could result from the trade in liquor. He stated that
It is a singular fact that the people who have sold liquor in our district have
been particularly liable to being burnt to death, and to accidents upon the
railway and to having their children drowned etc. We had one beer seller
who had his little child drowned within twelve months of his brother, who
also kept a beer shop, having his child burnt to death; another brother
was run over on the railway while in a state of intoxication and killed on
the spot, and another beer shop keeper in our district had his little child
drowned. The other beer shopkeeper committed suicide after being unsuccessful in two previous attempts at self-destruction.31
Given all this tragedy it was hardly surprising that White Coppice had
no beer shops. Eccles held up his village as a model of temperance and
sobriety but the committee seemed sceptical and asked if there was any
shebeening (illegal drinking in unlicensed premises) in the village or if
the locals went to nearby pubs in other villages. Eccles replied that
3 THE GrEAT ArMY Of DrINKErS
37
there were no cases of shebeening and that he had ‘never seen anyone’
bring back beer from the nearest pub which was three quarters of a mile
away.32 One committee member then asked what people drank with their
supper if they had no beer available locally. Eccles replied that they drank
tea, water or milk.33 He claimed that his village was a ‘moral place’ due
to the absence of a pub and he could prove it because the local register
of births showed no illegitimate conceptions. Yet the committee seemed
to find it very difficult to believe that the people of White Coppice were
entirely teetotal. Drinking table beer with dinner or supper was an integral part of the day for working-class people and there was a sense that
the committee not only knew that but felt that working-class people
were perhaps entitled to beer with their evening meal.
Other witnesses at the 1877 enquiry such as Professor Leoni Levi, a
barrister and statistician, presented less moralistic evidence. Levi offered
statistics to corroborate his theory that any increase in drunkenness was
directly linked to an increase in trade which was a consequence of better
wages among the working classes.34 In this sense, the drink trade followed the money or vice versa and the result was intemperance. Some
witnesses, and not just the pro-temperance ones seemed to find it hard
to accept that the working classes even the more prosperous ones, went
to pubs and other drinking places for reasons other than escapism or that
the results of drinking were anything less than drunkenness. There was
little discussion of the ways in which people drank for enjoyment and
pleasure or to socialise or conduct business because the focus was always
on intemperance and excess rather than on ‘normal’ or everyday drinking. for this reason, it was easier for some to view the drink trade as a
‘great evil’ that put profits before health, morality or social order. Ideas
about municipal control of pubs, disinterested management schemes and
counter-attractions for the working classes all stemmed from the belief
that alcohol was something that the drink trade could not sell responsibly and the working classes could not consume moderately. Yet witnesses
also gave evidence of a spectrum of working-class drinking that ranged
from moderate consumption to ‘falling down drunk’. Implicit in this
type of evidence was the knowledge that not all working-class men were
drunkards and that not all types of drinking were problematic and had to
be policed. This highlights the larger debate that fuelled the drink question in the nineteenth century—that of the freedom to drink versus state
control. Legislation that impacted upon men’s rights to drink alcohol in
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public and in private had to be considered carefully since it was not only
working-class men who were affected. Although this debate extended
across class lines it did not cross the gender divide. Victorian society was
highly patriarchal and, as the next chapter shows, this was reflected in attitudes towards all women’s drinking behaviour, regardless of class status.
NOTES
1. House of Commons Parliamentary Papers (HCPP). 1878–1879: c.
113: 4th report of The Select Committee of the House of Lords on
Intemperance.
2. Nicholls J. 2011. The Politics of Alcohol: A History of the Drink Question in
England: Manchester: Manchester University Press: p. 112.
3. HCPP. 1877: c. 171: first report of the Select Committee of the House
of Lords on Intemperance.
4. HCPP. 1877: c. 171: first report of the Select Committee of the House
of Lords on Intemperance: Evidence of Joseph Chamberlain.
5. HCPP. 1877: c. 271: Second report of the Select Committee of the
House of Lords on Intemperance: Evidence of Captain Nicholls.
6. HCPP. 1877: c. 271: Second report of the Select Committee of the
House of Lords on Intemperance: Evidence of Captain Nicholls.
7. HCPP. 1877: c. 418: Third report from the Select Committee of the
House of Lords on Intemperance: Evidence of John Matthias Weylland.
8. HCPP. 1877: c. 418: Evidence of John Matthias Weylland.
9. HCPP. 1877: c. 171: first report from the Select Committee of the
House of Lords on Intemperance: Evidence of Major John James Grieg,
Chief Constable of Liverpool.
10. HCPP. 1877: c. 171: Evidence of Major John James Grieg.
11. HCPP. 1977. c. 171: first report from the Select Committee of the
House of Lords on Intemperance: Evidence of Major John James Grieg.
12. HCPP. 1877: c. 171: first report from the Select Committee of the
House of Lords on Intemperance: Evidence of Major Edwin Bond, Chief
Constable of Birmingham.
13. HCPP. 1877: c. 171: first report from the Select Committee of the
House of Lords on Intemperance: Evidence of Major Edwin Bond, Chief
Constable of Birmingham.
14. HCPP. 1877: c. 271: Second report from the Select Committee of the
House of Lords on Intemperance: Evidence of Superintendent George
Turner, London Constabulary.
15. HCPP. 1877: c. 271: Evidence of Superintendent George Turner.
16. Brief biography of William Magee: https://en.wikisource.org/wiki/
Magee,_William_Connor_%28DNB00%29: accessed 10/3/2016.
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39
17. The bill that the reverend referred to was The Permissive Bill submitted to parliament by Sir Wilfred Lawson in 1869. The Bill proposed that
local ratepayers should be given power to decide on numbers of licensed
premises within their districts.
18. HCPP. 1878: No. 338: fourth report of the Select Committee of the
House of Lords on Intemperance: Evidence of reverend D. Burns.
19. Gutzke D. 1989. Protecting the Pub: Brewers and Publicans Against
Temperance: New Hampshire: The Boydell Press: pp. 192–194.
20. HCPP. 1877: c. 171: first report of the Select Committee of the House
of Lords on Intemperance: Evidence of Joseph Chamberlain.
21. HCPP. 1899: c. 9076: royal Commission on Liquor Licensing Laws:
Summary report.
22. HCPP. 1897: c. 8355: first report of the royal Commission on Liquor
Licensing Laws: Evidence of Sir John Bridge.
23. HCCP. 1897: c. 8355: Evidence of Sir John Bridge.
24. HCPP. 1877: c. 171: first report of the Select Committee of the House
of Lords on Intemperance: Evidence of Algernon Bourke.
25. HCPP. 1877: c. 171: first report of the Select Committee of the House
of Lords on Intemperance: Evidence of Algernon Bourke.
26. HCPP. 1897: c. 8355: first report of the royal Commission on Liquor
Licensing Laws: Evidence of Albert de rutzen.
27. Girourard M. 1990. Victorian Pubs. Unites States: Yale University Press:
pp. 2–7.
28. HCPP. 1877: c. 171: first report of the Select Committee of the House
of Lords on Intemperance: Evidence of John Alexander Bremner.
29. HCPP. 1877: c. 171: first report of the Select Committee of the House
of Lords on Intemperance: Evidence of William Sproston Caine.
30. HCPP. 1877: c. 171: Evidence of William Sproston Caine.
31. HCPP. 1877: c. 171: first report of the Select Committee of the House
of Lords on Intemperance: Evidence of Alfred Eccles.
32. HCPP. 1877: c. 171: Evidence of Alfred Eccles.
33. HCPP. 1877: c. 171.
34. HCPP. 1877: c. 171: first report of the Select Committee of the House
of Lords on Intemperance: Evidence of Professor Leone Levi.
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Attribution 4.0 International License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/
by/4.0/), which permits use, sharing, adaptation, distribution and reproduction
in any medium or format, as long as you give appropriate credit to the original
author(s) and the source, provide a link to the Creative Commons license and
indicate if changes were made.
The images or other third party material in this chapter are included in the
chapter’s Creative Commons license, unless indicated otherwise in a credit line
to the material. If material is not included in the chapter’s Creative Commons
license and your intended use is not permitted by statutory regulation or exceeds
the permitted use, you will need to obtain permission directly from the copyright
holder.
CHAPTEr 4
The Secret Army of Drinkers
Of every-one hundred women who are drunk, it is probable that a larger
number would commit disorderly acts, being of a more excitable temperament, and also because women when they take to evil courses are often
more shameless than men?1
There was another group of drinkers in Victorian Britain for whom temperance and teetotalism held little weight. If working-class men can be
defined as the ‘great army’ of drinkers then women can be regarded as
the secret army, although as the quote above demonstrates, some were
more secret about their drinking habits than others. The 1877 Select
Committee of the House of Lords on Intemperance (1877 enquiry)
investigated two main aspects of women’s drinking: one was middle-class
drinking linked to licensed grocers and the other was working-class
drinking linked to vice and crime. The division in attitudes between
public and private drinking was significant. There were many facts and
figures presented regarding criminal drunkenness among poor women
because they often drank publicly on the city streets and in pubs. Yet the
private-drinking habits of higher-class women buying alcohol from grocers remained more elusive and often the evidence presented amounted
to little more than conjecture. The standpoint of the investigation was
that all women were, by their very nature, more susceptible to the effects
of alcohol than men and were therefore worse drunks than men.
In the 1877 enquiry, the Chief Constable of Sheffield, John Jackson,
stated that drunken arrests among women had increased from 15.7%
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T. HANDS
in 1847 to 24.3% in 1876.2 When asked to account for this increase he
stated that there were a higher proportion of women working in factories
in Sheffield and he believed these women were adopting men’s drinking
habits.3 This idea of women ‘mirroring’ male behaviour was a common
argument put forward by many witnesses and while it did not appear to
excuse women’s drinking behaviour, it did locate it within the boundaries of male control. The idea that women simply mimicked men was
perhaps easier to comprehend than the alternative of women actively
consuming alcohol for their own purposes. Jackson argued that lowerclass women more generally were more prone to drunkenness and he
cited hawkers, peddlers, petty traders and factory workers as the worst
drunken offenders.4 Some committee members and witnesses seemed to
share the opinion that drunken women were more of a public nuisance
than drunken men and were therefore more likely to be arrested. The
minister for Liverpool Prison, reverend James Nugent, stated that in
1876 there were 4212 male prisoners and 5098 female prisoners within
the gaol.5 Moreover he stated that the majority of women were imprisoned for drink related crime and some were repeat offenders having been
convicted fifty, sixty or seventy times.6 He believed that the prison was
overcrowded with women of Irish descent who lived and worked in and
around the Liverpool docks making their living through prostitution.7
Nugent described these women as ruthless in their pursuit of sailors who
would provide them with shelter, clothing and drink.8 The increase in
drunken arrests among women in cities and large manufacturing towns
was attributed mainly to prostitution and petty crime and often the Irish
were singled out as the worst offenders.
John Bremner, a Manchester magistrate, presented statistics relating
to the numbers of arrests for drunkenness among the Irish population.
He stated that in 1876, the total number of drunken arrests among the
Irish was 2466 and that 789 of these were women.9 Bremner did not
provide any comparative figures for previous years but did state that in
1876 the total number of drunken arrests for all women was 2743.10
This meant that the overwhelming majority of drunken arrests were for
non-Irish women. Yet this fact evaded scrutiny and instead the figures
for drunken arrests among Irish women were set within the context of
Bremner’s views on the changing drinking habits of the Manchester
working classes. He believed that a recent influx of Irish immigrants from
Liverpool to Manchester to work in the cotton mills had encouraged
the popularity and spread of dram shops and dancing saloons. Bremner
4
THE SECrET ArMY Of DrINKErS
43
argued that the pubs in Manchester had ‘degenerated’ from being
houses of refreshment which served food and drink to ‘simple dram
shops’ which encouraged female drunkenness.11
Many witnesses expressed the belief that women were worse drunks
than men because they were more of a nuisance and more shameful. Yet
it was not only witnesses who held this belief. One member of the 1877
committee, the Bishop of Carlisle commented ‘I suppose the effect of
liquor upon a woman is greater than upon a man; that they are more
likely to be disorderly than a man would be on the same amount of liquor.’12 This idea that women simply could not ‘hold their drink’ in the
same way as men were put to witnesses such as general practitioners,
police, prison officials and asylum doctors. Mr William Smith, Governor
of ripon Prison in Yorkshire, stated that in his experience women were
prone to more frequent habits of intoxication than men.13 He cited
the example of a female prisoner who had been repeatedly convicted
for drunkenness and had spent several years in and out of prison. The
woman was released from prison and given a home and employment on
the condition that she sign the pledge and give up drinking. The woman
worked for a few weeks then she got drunk and left her job, claiming
that she could not live on charity.14 In the 1872 Select Committee
on Habitual Drunkards (1872 enquiry), Dr Alexander Peddie, an
Edinburgh physician noted for his professional interest in treating inebriety, recounted his experience of treating women with dipsomania
I have had the most solemn assertions that not a drop of liquor has crossed
their lips for many hours, when they could not have walked across the
floor; that not a drop of liquor was within their power; when I would find
bottles of liquor wrapped up in stockings and other articles of clothing …
and on a late occasion, in the case of a lady, after all means had failed in
discovering where the drink came from, on making a strict personal examination, found a bottle of brandy concealed in the armpit, hung around
the neck with an elastic cord so that she might help herself as she pleased.
Next morning seeing that the drunkenness still continued, and that something more was to be got at, there was actually found a bottle of brandy
tied in some way, round the loins, and placed between her thighs.15
Perhaps it was Peddie’s intention to provide a shocking tale of drinking that transgressed the boundaries of ‘decent’ and ‘respectable’ femininity but the idea of alcohol as a temptation that some women simply
could not resist was one of the reasons why the 1877 enquiry constantly
44
T. HANDS
returned to the question of women and licensed grocers. The 1860
Wine and refreshment Houses Act had led to the expansion of the offlicense trade and consequently the numbers of licensed grocers selling
wine, beer and spirits had increased. The 1860 Act marked Gladstone’s
attempts as Chancellor of the Exchequer, to overhaul the system of
duties on alcohol. This involved lowering the duties on imported wine
and allowing alcohol to be sold for consumption off the premises in a
wider range of shops and restaurants. These measures were hoped to
encourage the British population to consume wine instead of beer and
spirits, which in turn was intended to promote more ‘civilised’ and moderate drinking habits.16 Allowing the sale of small quantities of wine and
spirits in shops and restaurants meant that alcohol could be bought from
places other than pubs. Consequently, women who did not or could not
visit pubs were able to buy alcohol from an increased number of retail
outlets.
Many witnesses were asked about an increase in drunkenness among
women that could be directly attributed to the expansion of licensed
grocers. The general consensus among witnesses seemed to be that it
was mainly middle-class women who purchased alcohol from grocers and
that women of the lower classes were more likely to buy alcohol from
pubs. Obtaining alcohol from licensed grocers was regarded as perfectly
acceptable if women were buying wine and spirits for household use in
dining, cooking and entertaining. However, there were concerns that
some women were purchasing alcohol for their own personal use and
in the 1877 enquiry, the rector of Wrexham, reverend David Howell
stated that he knew of several instances where respectable women were
led to drinking through licensed grocers. He felt that licensed grocers
made it easier for women to buy liquor because they could purchase it
along with their groceries, thus escaping shame and detection by their
husbands.17 Captain James Nicholls, the Chief Constable of Newcastle
believed that women ‘of a higher station’ were inclined to purchase alcohol from grocers because they would be too ashamed to go to public
houses and that grocer’s licenses were directly responsible for an increase
in drinking among middle and upper class women. However, when asked
if he had any evidence to support his views, he stated that it was just
a general opinion.18 Witnesses often resorted to vague conjecture when
asked about the links between women’s drinking and licensed grocers.
However, some of the evidence given during The 1878 Grocers Licenses
(Scotland) Commission provided more persuasive accounts of women’s
4
THE SECrET ArMY Of DrINKErS
45
drinking. The evidence from this enquiry was widely reported in the
Scottish and national newspapers, providing sensationalist accounts of
women’s drinking. One witness, Duncan McLaren an Edinburgh MP,
read an extract from the medical journal The Lancet that reported on
a meeting of the Brewster Sessions in West riding. Brewster sessions
were the annual meetings of licensing justices to deal with the granting, renewal, and transfer of licenses to sell intoxicating liquor. The
report stated that there was evidence to suggest that women who visited
licensed grocers to purchase groceries were tempted to procure a bottle
of wine or spirits for their own private consumption.19 During 1877 The
Lancet ran a series of articles relating to licensed grocers because a group
of physicians, surgeons and general practitioners had signed a petition
calling for parliament to look at the issue of secret drinking. In a statement published in The Lancet the group of 920 doctors claimed that
We believe women, servants and children of respectable households, who
could not, or would not, procure intoxicating drinks at public houses are
encouraged to purchase and use these liquors by the opportunity offered
when visiting grocers shops for other purposes. female domestic servants
are often enabled to obtain bottles of spirits, wine and beer at a small cost
on credit, or as ‘commission’ on the household bills. This trade is wholly
removed from police supervision and is a direct incentive to ‘secret drinking’ – a practice more injurious to the health and morals and social prosperity of the community than ordinary trade in intoxicating liquors.20
The ‘evil of secret drinking’ that the doctors outlined in their petition went beyond a purely medical matter because it was embroiled
with ideas about respectable femininity. One witness from the Grocers
Licenses (Scotland) Commission, reverend William Turner of the
Edinburgh City Mission, read a statement from one of his informers who
worked for the Mission. The informer was acquainted with the daughter of a ‘respectable’ married woman who claimed that her mother was
‘given to drink’ and had purchased alcohol ‘hundreds of times’ from
Edinburgh grocers that concealed the purchases by falsifying the customer accounts.21 The statement continued that father of the family,
described as ‘a hardworking and worthy man’ had checked the grocer’s
account books to discover that the records had been falsified to conceal
his wife’s purchases of whisky. The conclusion was that the grocer and
the ‘foolish’ wife had colluded in this deceit.22 The main dilemma facing
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T. HANDS
the parliamentary enquiries and the doctors who signed the petition
was deciding if licensed grocers actively encouraged, either by their very
existence or in collusion with women, the practice of secret domestic
drinking. This type of drinking not only challenged feminine ideals but
more importantly, it defied patriarchal authority—in other words ‘worthy’ and ‘hard working’ men were being duped into paying for liquor by
unscrupulous grocers and ‘foolish’ wives.
Yet not all the witnesses agreed that licensed grocers actively encouraged women to drink and some still felt that men largely kept women’s drinking in check. One newspaper that reported on the Grocers
Licenses (Scotland) Commission cited the testimony of Provost King
of rutherglen, a textile manufacturer who employed 250 women in his
factory. King stated that he had no knowledge of wives drinking ‘without the consent’ of their husbands and therefore in this regard licensed
grocers did not present any kind of temptation.23 However it seemed
that not all women sought permission from their husbands to drink. The
real issue with licensed grocers was that they enabled women to drink ‘in
secret’ beyond the male gaze. In contrast, working-class women drank
publicly under the glare of moral scrutiny.
This builds a picture of female drinking that ranged across social
classes and occurred in both public and private settings. Although many
witnesses believed alcohol presented a temptation to women, it could be
argued that it also presented a means of resisting patriarchal authority.
If the great army of male drinkers stood strong against temperance and
sobriety, then perhaps the women’s secret army made their own stand
against patriarchy and feminine ideals through the consumption of alcohol. This fits with de Certeau’s ideas of a consumer grid of resistance
Many everyday practices (talking, reading, moving about, shopping, cooking etc.) are tactical in character. And so are, more generally, many ‘ways of
operating’: victories of the ‘weak’ over the ‘strong’ (whether the strength
be that of powerful people or the violence of things or of an imposed
order, etc.).24
Public drunkenness and secret drinking were constructed as deviant and
immoral precisely because they were defiant acts that involved the agency
of women as alcohol consumers. This agency held power and therefore
it was difficult to grasp the concept that women could actively choose to
buy and consume alcohol for their own purposes of intoxication. It was
4
THE SECrET ArMY Of DrINKErS
47
easier to locate women’s drinking within the framework of patriarchy
and argue that women were simply mimicking male behaviour, or shift
the blame on to licensed grocers for supplying women with alcohol. The
idea that women were worse drunks than men cast them as the weaker
sex in terms of alcohol consumption and intoxication more broadly. Put
simply, it was believed that men could handle their drink and women
could not and to some extent this dictated the social rules of public and
private drinking. Therefore the women who chose to drink alcohol, in
spite of the social rules, were in some ways resisting the status quo.
NOTES
1. House of Commons Parliamentary Papers (HCPP). 1877: c. 171: first
report of the Select Committee of the House of Lords on Intemperance:
Question from Lord Aberdaire to John Jackson, Chief Constable of
Sheffield.
2. HCPP. 1877: c. 171: first report from the Select Committee of the
House of Lords on Intemperance: Evidence of John Jackson, Chief
Constable of Sheffield.
3. HCPP. 1877: c. 171: first report from the Select Committee of the
House of Lords on Intemperance: Evidence of John Jackson, Chief
Constable of Sheffield.
4. HCPP. 1877: c. 171: first report from the Select Committee of the
House of Lords on Intemperance: Evidence of John Jackson, Chief
Constable of Sheffield.
5. HCPP. 1877: c. 418: Third report of the Select Committee of the House
of Lords on Intemperance: Evidence of reverend James Nugent.
6. HCPP. 1877: c. 418: Third report of the Select Committee of the House
of Lords on Intemperance: Evidence of reverend James Nugent.
7. HCPP. 1877: c. 418: Third report of the Select Committee of the House
of Lords on Intemperance: Evidence of reverend James Nugent.
8. HCPP. 1877: c. 418: Evidence of reverend James Nugent.
9. HCPP. 1877: c. 271: Second report of the Select Committee of the
House of Lords on Intemperance: Evidence of John Alexander Bremner.
10. HCPP. 1877: c. 271: Evidence of John Alexander Bremner.
11. HCPP. 1877: c. 271: Evidence of John Alexander Bremner.
12. HCPP. 1877: c. 418: Third report of the Select Committee of the
House of Lords on Intemperance: Evidence of reverend James Nugent:
Question from the Bishop of Carlisle to reverend Nugent.
13. HCPP. 1877: c. 271: Second report of the Select Committee of the
House of Lords on Intemperance: Evidence of Mr William Smith.
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T. HANDS
14. HCPP. 1877: c. 271: Evidence of Mr William Smith.
15. HCPP. 1872: c. 242: Select Committee on Habitual Drunkards: Evidence
of Dr Alexander Peddie.
16. Briggs A. 1985. Wine for Sale: Victoria Wine and the Liquor Trade 1860–
1914: Chicago: University of Chicago Press: pp. 9–18.
17. HCPP. 1877: c. 418: Third report of the Select Committee of the House
of Lords on Intemperance: Evidence of reverend David Howell.
18. HCPP. 1877: c. 271: Second report of the Select Committee of the
House of Lords on Intemperance: Evidence of Captain James Nicholls.
19. HCPP. 1878: c. 1941: Grocers Licenses (Scotland) Commission:
Evidence of Duncan McLaren MP.
20. ‘The Grocers License’, The Lancet: Volume 110:2810: 7 July 1877:
pp. 27–18.
21. HCPP. 1878: c. 1941: Grocers Licenses (Scotland) Commission:
Evidence of reverend William Turner.
22. HCPP. 1878: c. 1941: Grocers Licenses (Scotland) Commission:
Evidence of reverend William Turner.
23. ‘royal Commission on Licensed Grocers’: The Glasgow Herald: 25
October 1877.
24. de Certeau M. 1984. The Practice of Everyday Life: Berkeley: University of
California Press: p. xix.
Open Access This chapter is licensed under the terms of the Creative Commons
Attribution 4.0 International License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/
by/4.0/), which permits use, sharing, adaptation, distribution and reproduction
in any medium or format, as long as you give appropriate credit to the original
author(s) and the source, provide a link to the Creative Commons license and
indicate if changes were made.
The images or other third party material in this chapter are included in the
chapter’s Creative Commons license, unless indicated otherwise in a credit line
to the material. If material is not included in the chapter’s Creative Commons
license and your intended use is not permitted by statutory regulation or exceeds
the permitted use, you will need to obtain permission directly from the copyright
holder.
CHAPTEr 5
Testing the ‘Character of Drink’
There were many references made throughout the parliamentary enquiries to the type of alcohol sold and consumed within pubs and other
drinking places because different types and qualities of alcohol were
believed to influence drinking behaviour. The quality of beer, wine and
spirits varied enormously and some brewers and publicans used adulterants to enhance the quality, taste or strength of the liquor sold.1 Joseph
Chamberlain read a statement from a Birmingham chemical analyst who
had been commissioned to examine the beer sold in certain ‘low class’
public houses
The samples are all very dark in colour, of a harsh disagreeable taste, and
unusually bitter. The character of the bitter, which clung persistently to the
palate, is altogether unlike the pleasant, transient, aromatic flavour of the
hop, of which I believe all, or nearly all, the samples to be entirely innocent. I drank some of each sample and found them all heady in their effects
and seemed to dispose of diarrhoea. I have however been unable, by either
chemical or other tests to prove the presence of coccolus indicus.2
Chamberlain stated that in his opinion, many of the problems of drunkenness could be eradicated by changing ‘the character of the drink which
the population consumes.’3 Moreover, he believed that the poorer
working classes were so used to consuming poor quality beer that they
offered ‘Bass’s best beer’ they would refuse it because the strength of
the beer sold in lower-class pubs matched that of spirits such as brandy.4
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Chamberlain and other witnesses believed that the problems of intemperance extended beyond the types of drinkers or amounts of alcohol
consumed to encompass the type and quality of alcohol that was sold to
the population.
In the late nineteenth century alcohol was produced on an industrial
scale in Britain and those involved in the drink trade benefitted from
advances in science and technology that increased productivity and maximised profits. Although this meant wider choice and cheaper prices for
alcohol consumers, there were concerns at a political level regarding the
quality of alcohol that was sold to the public. Chamberlain stated that
the Birmingham analyst strongly suspected the presence of the drug cocculus indicus (an intoxicant added to boost the strength of weak beer)
and that in his opinion, certain lower-class pubs were selling beer that
was ‘unduly intoxicating and unwholesome and quite different from genuine ales.5 As Burns notes there was a ‘general climate of adulteration’
in the late nineteenth century and it was common practice for manufacturers and publicans to add a range of additives to food and drink to
either improve the taste or to extract more profit.6 Some of these additives were legal and fairly benign in nature but others were potentially
toxic and posed a risk to health. The main reasons that manufacturers
and publicans had for adulterating alcohol were to improve the taste,
appearance and strength of watered down or poor quality beer and spirits or to enhance the taste of ‘silent’ or ‘foreign’ spirits that were sold to
the public as ‘genuine’ spirits. Although the 1872 Licensing Act made it
an offence to keep or sell adulterated liquor, the practice was still widespread because detection and prosecution were difficult and some publicans were intent on boosting profits with the help of water and chemical
additives.7
The adulteration of beer by publicans was one concern that featured throughout the parliamentary enquiries. However there was often
more attention given to adulterated spirits because of the higher levels
of alcohol and intoxication. The 1890 Select Committee on British and
foreign spirits looked at the issue of adulteration and heard evidence
from witnesses such as Inland revenue officials and chemical analysts.
The enquiry was concerned with investigating three key issues regarding
the production, sale and consumption of spirits in Britain: first was the
bonding of spirits for maturity and whether this practice should be made
compulsory to ensure the sale of better quality spirits. Second was the
blending of spirits produced by patent and pot still distillation derived
5
TESTING THE ‘CHArACTEr Of DrINK’
51
from different countries of origin and whether this practice was in the
best interests of alcohol consumers. There were questions about the
possible health implications of blending spirits and also over the labelling of blended spirits that were composed of different substances. The
third issue under investigation was the consumption of intoxicants such
as ether, methylated spirits and ‘new’ spirits that had not been matured
and what impact these substances had on public health. The enquiry was
conducted with a scientific rigour and chemical analysts were summoned
to provide evidence on the distillation process and chemical composition
of spirits. The subject of fusel oil featured prominently throughout the
enquiry. fusel oil was a generic name given to a range of chemical constituents sometimes referred to as ‘impurities’ which were produced by
spirit distillation and included amyl-alcohol and other oily compounds.
fusel oil was believed to be present in different amounts and compositions in many alcoholic drinks. It was the amount of fusel oil present that
mattered because it was believed to affect the quality and taste of spirits
and also the health and behaviour of consumers.
The enquiry heard evidence from two analytical chemists employed
by the Inland revenue and the Board of Customs. These men tested
various samples of spirits obtained from distilleries and pubs in order
to assess the extent to which methods of distillation and the process
of blending and bonding spirits affected the quality, purity, strength
and taste of spirits sold to the public. Dr Bell, Principal Chemist of the
Inland revenue Laboratory obtained 51 samples of spirits from working-class pubs situated in the ‘lowest parts’ of towns in England, Ireland
and Scotland. Bell subjected the samples to a chemical analysis and a
taste test, which he concluded was ‘satisfactory’.8 He reported that
the spirits sold in public houses were highly rectified (distilled) and of
good quality and strength which was indicative of patent still distillation
methods. This produced cheap, commercially viable spirits such as gin
and whisky but also produced a ‘silent spirit’ or ‘German spirit’9 that
could be mixed with other alcoholic drinks such as brandy, whisky and
sherry to produce ‘fake’ spirits. Bell argued that from his perspective as
a chemist cheap patent still spirits and ‘fake’ spirits were of a sufficient
quality, strength and purity to pose no hazard to public health. However
the Committee were not satisfied with his conclusions and pressed him
to state for the record if he believed that ‘fake’ french brandy, Scotch
whisky or West Indian rum were better than the genuine articles.10 Bell
stated that the preference for ‘fake’ or ‘real’ spirits was purely a matter
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T. HANDS
of consumer taste and that in his opinion the public preferred less highly
flavoured spirits produced by patent still production and by blending
cheap ‘silent’ spirit with more expensive ‘real’ spirits.11 Bell gave the
impression that he did not think the public were being duped either
in terms of taste or quality by cheap, mass produced blended spirits.
However, the persistent line of questioning from the Committee suggested that they thought otherwise.
At one point the committee presented Bell with a glass of Scotch
and a glass of Irish whisky purchased from the House of Commons
bar. Bell was asked to test the whiskies in order to establish their point
of origin—i.e. patent or pot still distillation and to test the quality and
purity of the drinks. In 1890 James Buchanan & Co. had the contract to
sell blended Scotch whisky in the Houses of Parliament so presumably
the glass of Scotch was Buchanan’s blended whisky and the glass of Irish
whisky was most likely a single malt whisky produced by traditional pot
still methods. This whisky test was seemingly conducted in order to aid
the committee’s deliberations over the correct labelling of spirits and to
establish if labels should state the country of origin. However, the line
of questioning leading up to the whisky test constantly pressed Bell for
his opinions on which types of alcohol were ‘better’—British or foreign,
patent or pot still, blended or single malt whiskies, bonded or ‘new’ spirits.12 There was a sense that the committee members were approaching
the subject not only from a political standpoint but also as alcohol consumers. They were either reluctant to accept Bell’s view that there was
little difference in the quality of single malt or blended whisky or perhaps
they just wanted to know exactly what they were drinking.
The second analytical chemist that gave evidence to the 1890
enquiry was Mr Cobden Samuel, the principal analyst of the Customs
Laboratory. Cobden Samuel conducted experiments on himself using
samples of spirits containing different levels of fusel oils in order to
investigate the physical effects of drinking spirits produced by different distillation and blending methods. Over a period of days he regularly consumed quantities of ‘genuine’ 15-year-old brandy to which he
added commercial fusel oil. He reported no ill effects and stated that his
appetite and urine were normal. He then consumed quantities of ‘pure’
spirits with little or no fusel oil or ‘impurities’ present and reported that
after a few days he began to feel unwell and suffered frequent headaches,
tightness in the chest and acute attacks of indigestion.13 He, therefore,
concluded that ‘plain’ or ‘silent’ spirits were in fact injurious to health
5
TESTING THE ‘CHArACTEr Of DrINK’
53
in their pure form and that the presence of ‘impurities’ or fusels oil in
spirits was beneficial not only in terms of health but also in terms of the
quality and taste of spirits. Cobden Samuel essentially refuted Bell’s evidence by arguing that ‘genuine’ spirits containing fusel oil and impurities produced by traditional methods, were better for health than ‘fake’
or ‘silent’ spirits produced by commercial patent still methods. Cobden
Samuel attributed the headaches he experienced after drinking silent spirits to the ‘maddening’ effects of new spirits which were believed to produce erratic, volatile and sometimes violent behaviour.14
The links between alcohol consumption and behaviour was a common
theme throughout the parliamentary enquiries. Many witnesses believed
that the cheap alcohol sold and consumed in lower working class areas
was either adulterated beer or mass produced poor quality spirits and the
effects of consumption were drunken and sometimes violent or criminal behaviour. The committees often returned to questions about certain types of alcohol inducing more or less drunkenness and whether
there were any medical benefits to be gained from moderate drinking.
At the 1877 enquiry, Thomas Lauder Brunton, a doctor and lecturer in
Materia Medica at St Bartholomew’s Hospital in London was asked if
he believed that a glass of wine or spirits taken in moderation might be
useful in the case of impaired digestion. He agreed that it was very useful and that: ‘a man working hard all day has an exhausted stomach that
is slow to digest food and a glass of wine speeds digestion’.15 Brunton
also stated that alcohol was a useful medicine in treating fevers and as
an aid to insomnia. When asked about the types of alcohol used by doctors Brunton stated that he prescribed only ‘good wine’ or ‘pure wine’
because these left no bad effects afterwards.16 Another doctor that gave
evidence was Sir William Gull who was consulting physician at Guy’s
Hospital in London. Gull was asked if he would recommend that men
working outdoors in hard physical labour should consume small amounts
of ‘nutritious light beer.’ and replied
I think some stomachs have more power to consume common food, while
others want food more highly prepared. I do not think at present, from
our knowledge, we should be prepared to say that everybody could go
without beer. It is a food of a light kind.17
Although Gull believed that working-class labourers benefitted from
consuming moderate amounts of beer, he disagreed with one committee
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T. HANDS
member’s suggestion that intellectual work also required alcohol and
stated that in his opinion moderate consumption harmed the nervous
systems and brains of the higher classes.18 Like the 1890 enquiry, the line
of questioning often veered from impartiality and exposed the concerns
of committee members as alcohol consumers. It is reasonable to assume
that most committee members drank alcohol for various reasons—either
to relax and socialise, for health reasons or to combat fatigue and ‘stimulate’ intellectual output. It is also likely that aside from the fervent
pro-temperance supporters, many witnesses were regular drinkers and
their opinions on their own drinking habits and those of others were
coloured by their experiences as alcohol consumers. In this sense, professionalism and impartiality often gave way to the personal opinions and
anecdotal evidence of alcohol consumers.
NOTES
1. Burns E. 1995. Bad Whisky: Glasgow: Balvag Books: p. 10.
2. House of Commons Parliamentary Papers (HCPP). c. 171: first report
of the Select Committee of the House of Lords on Intemperance:
Evidence of Joseph Chamberlain.
3. Ibid.
4. Ibid.
5. HCPP. c. 171: first report of the Select Committee of the House of
Lords on Intemperance: Evidence of Joseph Chamberlain.
6. Burns: p. 13.
7. Ibid.: p. 32.
8. HCPP. c. 316: first report of the Select Committee on British and
foreign Spirits: Evidence of Dr Bell.
9. Patent still spirit was often imported from abroad and the name ‘German
spirit’ was applied to any imported spirit although most were imported
from russia.
10. HCPP. c. 316: first report of the Select Committee on British and
foreign Spirits: Evidence of Dr Bell.
11. Ibid.
12. HCPP. c. 316: first report of the Select Committee on British and
foreign Spirits: Evidence of Dr Bell.
13. HCPP. c. 316: first report of the Select Committee on British and
foreign Spirits: Evidence of Mr Cobden Samuel.
14. HCPP. c. 316: first report of the Select Committee on British and
foreign Spirits: Evidence of Mr Cobden Samuel.
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TESTING THE ‘CHArACTEr Of DrINK’
55
15. HCPP. c. 418: Third report of the Select Committee on Intemperance:
Evidence of Thomas Lauder Brunton.
16. Ibid.
17. HCPP. c. 418: Third report of the Select Committee on Intemperance:
Evidence of Sir William Gull.
18. Ibid.
Open Access This chapter is licensed under the terms of the Creative
Commons Attribution 4.0 International License (http://creativecommons.
org/licenses/by/4.0/), which permits use, sharing, adaptation, distribution and
reproduction in any medium or format, as long as you give appropriate credit to
the original author(s) and the source, provide a link to the Creative Commons
license and indicate if changes were made.
The images or other third party material in this chapter are included in the
chapter’s Creative Commons license, unless indicated otherwise in a credit line
to the material. If material is not included in the chapter’s Creative Commons
license and your intended use is not permitted by statutory regulation or exceeds
the permitted use, you will need to obtain permission directly from the copyright
holder.
PArT II
Drinks
This part provides three case studies of Victorian alcohol producers
and retailers: Bass & Co, a major brewer based in Burton-upon-Trent;
whisky producers James Buchanan and John Walker whose companies
expanded the market for Scotch whisky in England and W & A Gilbey,
one of the leading wine and spirit merchants in the late nineteenth century. Each of these companies operated in an increasingly competitive
market for alcoholic drinks. It was therefore necessary to adapt business
models and commercial practices to secure profits from the sale of wines,
beers and spirits. Although each case study tells a different story, they
share some commonalities. Each company realised that selling alcohol in
late Victorian Britain required a degree of cunning, ingenuity and a leap
of imagination in order to circumvent temperance ideology and reach an
expanding consumer market. People did not need to be given reasons to
drink—despite decades of the Temperance Movement, many continued
to do so. However there was profit to be made in marketing alcohol as
a socially acceptable (and sometimes desirable) drink that not only had
health-giving properties but also embodied British cultural ideals.
CHAPTEr 6
Selling ‘the Drink of the Empire’:
Bass & Co. Ltd
It is easy to see why pale, bitter ale made great headway in the 1840-1900
period, the golden age of British beer drinking. It was novel, bright, fresh
and pale; it looked good in the new glassware; it was the high fashion of
beer of the railway age. Perfected in Burton, it was, by the 1870s, produced everywhere.1
Tastes in beer changed during the nineteenth century and this was driven
in part by the expansion of the brewing industry and also by changing
social attitudes and leisure pursuits.2 Although regional breweries continued to produce a variety of beers that catered to local markets, one of the
key national changes was a general shift in tastes from strong dark beers
and porter to light sparkling beers and ales. This is largely attributed
to the expansion of the brewing industry in Burton upon Trent in the
1840s which was driven by the development of India Pale Ale (IPA).3
Burton brewers, Allsopp and Bass began developing a heavily hopped,
pale bitter beer for the Indian export market in the 1820s. IPA was
developed to survive long sea voyages and hot climates and was therefore
a successful export commodity to India and the colonies. foster attributes the commercial success of IPA not only to its robust qualities, which
made it a safe and pleasant alternative to local drinking water but also
because for colonists, it evoked ideas about Britishness.4
The development of IPA and can be traced to the October ales which
were produced in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Beer production was closely aligned with the agricultural seasons and the beers
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brewed at the beginning of the season used the freshest hops and malt
right after the autumn harvest. The practice of using exclusively pale
malt was expensive and was therefore usually found among country
estate brewers who catered to the wealthiest country gentry.5 By the
mid-eighteenth century, commercial brewers in London were also producing pale beers alongside darker beers and porter. However, pale beer
was more expensive and was therefore viewed as a status drink which
was popular among the upper classes, many of who became colonists in
India. The market for pale ales was closely linked to the expansion of
the British Empire and also to the spread of imperial ideology. This was
one of the key reasons for the commercial success of Bass & Co. which
produced and exported the largest volume of IPA in the late nineteenth
century.
following the railway expansion in the 1840s, the Burton brewers began to develop variants of IPA for the domestic market. Up until
that point IPA had not been sold in Britain and although it is likely
that the Burton brewers seized upon a commercial opportunity to cultivate domestic tastes for pale ale, a more exciting story circulating at
the time claimed that a ship carrying a cargo of IPA destined for India
was shipwrecked in the Irish Sea and the cargo was salvaged and sold
off in Liverpool where local drinkers sampled it and liked the taste.6 As
Jonathan reinarz notes, ‘shipwreck theory’ provides an attractive explanation for the commercial success of IPA because it supports the prevalent historical view that nineteenth-century brewers spent very little time
or resources on marketing and advertising.7 The Bass records support
the idea that there was more to the commercial success of pale ale than
simply ‘success by chance.’ In fact, the larger Burton brewers such as
Bass & Co., spent considerable amounts of money on advertising pale ale
and expanding the domestic market for its products.
Bass brewery was a family business established in Burton upon Trent
in the 1770s. The company initially supplied local pubs and inns in the
surrounding areas. Then in the late eighteenth century, it merged with
another local brewer, Samuel ratcliff and together they built a strong
export trade to the Baltic region. When the Baltic trade began to fail
after 1800, the company again merged with another local brewer John
Gretton and trading as ‘Bass, ratcliff and Gretton’ turned its attention
to cultivating trade links to India and the colonies by developing and
exporting IPA.8 The company also extended its reach into the domestic market. Between 1850 and 1880 25% of beer and ale sales went to
6
SELLING ‘THE DrINK Of THE EMPIrE’: BASS & CO. LTD
61
the London market; 18% were exported; 22% were distributed locally
and 35% were sold by other agencies.9 By the 1880s, Bass was producing
approximately 850,000 barrels per year with the production of pale ale
accounting for 56% of total output.10 The company also secured its share
of the domestic market through the tied house system and by buying
licensed premises in Burton and surrounding areas and in London.11
When Alfred Barnard visited Bass & Co. in 1889, he described the
brewery as a major part of Burton’s ‘beer metropolis.’12 Barnard was
a journalist with a particular interest in the drink trade. He published
detailed accounts of his tours around various breweries in Britain and
Ireland and seemed to be particularly impressed with the production site
at Bass & Co. where he found that ‘a steady and undeviating perseverance of uniformity, order and regularity, is discernible in all the buildings
and breweries connected with Bass & Co.’s establishment.’13 The detail
in Barnard’s account conveys the sheer enormity of the Bass production
site which included 12 miles of railway track connecting all the buildings
in the company grounds. Barnard was clearly impressed with the production process which used modern brewing equipment and employed
analytical chemists to test and enhance the quality of products. This was
brewing on a truly modern and industrial scale. However, the volume of
output was not enough to maintain and promote the company’s share of
the market. It was, therefore, important to create a distinct brand identity that would be associated with all Bass products. During his tour,
Barnard visited the bottle-labelling department, which he described as
… a large and important one in this establishment. [It] is conducted by
a Superintendent and several clerks. The well-known red triangle or pyramid, in the centre of the oval label, used for Bass & Co.’s bottled pale
ale is one of their numerous trademarks and has been in use by them for
upwards of fifty years.14
The red triangle or ‘pyramid’ and the red diamond were in fact the first
British company trademarks to be registered under the Trade Marks
registration Act in 1842. Bass was aware of the need to protect the
brand identity and the company kept a label book which contained various Bass labels and those used by rival companies. This book contained
labels from c. 1870 to 1924 which appear to have been used as a means
of keeping a record of the development of new product labelling and
also of any attempts by rival companies to copy Bass product branding.
62
T. HANDS
Bass also kept an Infringement Book which contained evidence of any
fraudulent attempts to copy or use Bass product branding. One undated
entry in the book titled ‘Bass & Co.’s advertisements—case to advise’
stated
Bass, ratcliff and Gretton Ltd are the owners of a trademark in the form
of a triangle which is coloured red. Certain public houses where their beer
is to be obtained have painted on the window adjoining the public house
the triangle and in some cases there is the addition of ‘Bass & Co.’s Ales’
too … Strangers seeing the mark on the windows are drawn into the house
under the impression that they can obtain Bass & Co. ale. We have no
evidence as to whether they ask for Bass & Co. ale and are supplied in
draught or in bottle with ale either by no remark being made as to whether
it is Bass & Co. or not, but there is no doubt that keeping up the mark
attracts customers.15
The company invested considerable time and resources in order to
protect the brand from fraudulent use. An online search of the British
Newspaper Archive for ‘Bass Pale Ale labels’ (1850–1900) generated
numerous reports of prosecutions for false labelling of products. for
example, in 1859 The Belfast Morning News reported the case of a local
wine and spirit merchant charged with purchasing quantities of pale ale
and falsely labelling the bottles with an imitation Bass logo.16 Another
similar case reported in The Manchester Courier in 1886 was of a local
ale and porter merchant charged with putting false Bass labels on his
products.17 In each of these cases Bass & Co. successfully pursued legal
action against the individuals that had attempted to use the Bass logo.
The company also placed adverts in newspapers warning customers to be
wary of false labelling on products claiming to be Bass Pale Ale and recommended that customers deface the labels on empty bottles to prevent
them from being refilled with ‘inferior’ ale.18 By making such a public
spectacle of protecting the brand image, the company not only dissuaded
fraudulent activity but more importantly, it sent out a clear message to
consumers that Bass was a reputable company selling high-quality products that were worth protecting. Although tracking down and prosecuting fraudsters may have been time-consuming and expensive, ultimately
it enhanced the company image which in turn made the Bass brand even
more exclusive and desirable.
Although the origins of the red triangle design are somewhat unclear,
it grew to symbolise quality and authenticity. Some historical accounts
6
SELLING ‘THE DrINK Of THE EMPIrE’: BASS & CO. LTD
63
state that a clerk at Bass & Co. created the red triangle design in 1855.19
The reasoning behind the design is less clear. The Bass company scrapbook contained an amusing clip from The Westminster Gazette in
1894, which claimed that
Everybody knows the red pyramid pale ale label surrounded by a
Staffordshire knot. It was the design of Mr George Curzon, one of the
employees in the London agency and was first used in 1855. Some years
ago an ingenious writer in one of the Sheffield papers wittily invented a
classical legend about this label … the pyramid builders worshipped a great
power called by some Tammuz, by others Bassareus, the son of the goddess Ops. He was termed Bassareus the fortifier …20
It is perhaps more likely that the triangle design represented the three
key elements in Bass & Co.—namely, Bass, ratcliff and Gretton or that
the company realized the potential to reach consumers by using a simple
bold geometric design on product labelling. In any case, a distinct brand
image ensured that Bass products were visible during a period of intense
competition in the foreign and domestic markets for beer. As Table 6.1
shows, the company spent increasing amounts on product labelling and
advertising around the turn of the century
By 1904, the advertising budget had grown in line with the company
profit from sales, which increased from £3,102,479 in 1895 to £3,642,377
in 1904.21 At this time the company had an extensive system of agencies
in various cities around the UK and the world. Between 1902 and 1903,
sales increases were reported in Bristol, Nottingham, Glasgow, Belfast,
Plymouth, Exeter, New York and Paris.22 Indeed, by the late nineteenth
century, Bass Pale Ale had even penetrated Parisian bohemian culture.
Table 6.1 Bass & Co.
balance sheets 1896–
1904.23
Show cards, labels & stationery
1896
1897
1898
1899
1900
1901
1902
1903
1904
Expenses
£13,939 7s 8d
£17,762 18s 2d
£23,086 13s 2d
£26,284 10s 2d
£22,373 1s 11d
£24,232 9s 9d
£20,945 3s 4d
£27,779 8s 4d
£39,321 4s 6d
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T. HANDS
Edouard Manet’s impressionist painting from 1882 features bottles of
Bass No. 1 Pale Ale on prominent display on the bar of the folies-Bergere,
which was one of Paris’ top music hall venues frequented by Manet and
other artists.
Although Bass had cultivated a market for its products in Paris, the
sales book for 1902–1903 also noted a marked decrease in sales in
London and Newcastle. Between 1903 and 1905 profits from sales also
dropped from £3,866,320 to £3,481,131.24 This decline in domestic
sales followed the passing of The 1902 Licensing Act which imposed
restrictions on the granting of new pub licenses. Since Bass had an extensive network of tied houses and had paid loans to many pubs, hotels and
railway hotels across England, the decline in domestic sales and profits
could be partly attributed to the change in legislation. It would, therefore, have been important to generate new sales and a key way to reach
consumers was through advertising.
Bass had already established a strong brand image through product
labelling and by the turn of the century, the company had built a reputation for selling high-quality beers and ales. Dwindling sales meant that
in order to reach more consumers it was necessary to ‘invent’ new reasons for drinking Bass products and to sell these ideas to consumers—
in essence, give people more reasons to drink Bass products. In order
to be commercially successful, these reasons had to reflect cultural values
and ideally reinforce them. One example was an advert from 1911 which
depicted Bass’s ‘world-famed’ pale ale as ‘The Drink of the Empire’ with
its path to success from 1778 to 1911 closely mirroring the expansion
and dominance of the British empire. Whether intentional or not, there
certainly seemed to be some truth in this advert. In the eighteenth century, pale (or October) ale was the drink favoured by the landed gentry,
colonists and military elites. It was a socially desirable drink before it was
exported to the colonies and became IPA. The conflation of ideas about
social class and British imperialism was already part of the appeal of the
drink. All Bass had to do was market those ideas.
Bass advertising also drew upon on other aspects of British culture
such as the practice of ‘having a nip’ of alcohol to keep out the cold winter weather or to ‘ward off chills’. Bass ale was promoted as ‘the best
winter drink’ because it contained ‘nourishing’ qualities which were not
found in spirits. These adverts had a twofold purpose: to promote the
idea that beer had health-giving properties and to persuade consumers
that more expensive beers, like Bass, were especially therapeutic. It was
6
SELLING ‘THE DrINK Of THE EMPIrE’: BASS & CO. LTD
65
important that consumers viewed beer as a viable alternative to the ‘pickme-up’ offered by tonic wines and cheap spirits. Bass ales, although more
expensive, had a reputation as medicinal alcoholic drinks that were prescribed by the medical profession.
In 1852, several articles on the chemical composition of Burton
ales appeared in The Lancet. These followed reports from a chemist in
france, that British bitter ales contained quantities of strychnine. As the
reports were circulated in the British press, Allsopp and Bass grew concerned and asked The Lancet to conduct chemical analyses of their beers
and to publish the results in the journal. It is clear from the extract of
the report shown below that The Lancet undertook the task of analysing
the beers not only because the medical profession prescribed (and perhaps drank) Burton ales but also because the french dared to attack the
British national drink.
In all those countries in which the vine tree is extensively cultivated, wine
is the ordinary beverage of the population; while in England the climate
being unsuited to the growth of the vine, beer is the national beverage and
enters into daily consumption of all classes of persons, from the richest to
the poorest. It is therefore not extraordinary that any statement calculated
to throw a suspicion on the genuine character of beer, should be viewed
with alarm by the public and with the utmost concern by those engaged in
the manufacture, whose pecuniary interests are of course largely involved.25
The reports provided very favourable analyses of Bass pale ale and IPA
and refuted any claims that ‘British beers’ contained strychnine. Indeed,
the reports also did a very good job of advertising the therapeutic qualities of Bass products
from the pure and wholesome nature of the ingredients employed, the
moderate proportion of alcohol present and the very considerable quantity of aromatic anodyne bitter derived from the hops contained in these
beers, they tend to preserve the tone and rigour of the stomach and conduce the restoration of the health of that organ when in a state of weakness
or debility … it is very satisfactory to find that a beverage of such general
consumption is entirely free from any kind of impurity.26
Although these reports appeared before the height of medical temperance later in the century when the medical profession shied away from
such unreserved endorsements of the medicinal qualities of alcohol, they
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T. HANDS
do highlight one of the key ways in which Bass ales came to be regarded
as ‘wholesome’ national drinks. Half a century later, Bass marketed
‘barley wine’ (which was in fact a high gravity heavily malted beer) as
a ‘wholesome’ medicinal winter drink. One advert for barley wine used
another report from The Lancet which once again analysed the chemical composition of a Bass product and found that it possessed ‘a decidedly nourishing value’ compared to other strong beers and stouts.27 This
medical endorsement would undoubtedly have helped Bass to market a
higher alcohol beer as a viable alternative to other popular ‘medicinal’
drinks like invalid stouts, tonic wines and of course spirits like brandy and
whisky.
By the turn of the century, Bass was one of many companies competing in the growing domestic market for alcoholic ‘health’ drinks and
many of the adverts from the 1890–1910 period drew upon concepts
of beer as a nutritious medicinal drink that could be used in a variety of
situations for an array of health complaints. One advertising campaign
used the miseries of the daily grind to convince consumers that Bass ale
could help cure their ills. These adverts posed questions such as: ‘Can’t
eat? Can’t sleep?’ and ‘Too tired to sleep?’ or ‘Tired or run down?’—and
in every case the answer to the problem was to be found in a ‘nutritious’
glass of Bass ale. Another way to reach consumers was to market products for home consumption. This was undoubtedly a wise move during
a period when restrictive licensing, limited pub opening hours and moral
judgments made the trip to the local pub difficult or impossible for certain groups, most notably women.
By the early twentieth century, dwindling sales meant that it was
important to reach and indeed create new groups of consumers whose
custom and loyalty demanded more than a strong brand image. Creating
and securing this market meant giving people ‘good reasons’ to drink
Bass products—for health; to combat the daily grind of work or to cope
with the worst of the British weather. Perhaps, people already drank beer
for these reasons and all that Bass had to do was market these uses and
sell the idea that Bass products were a cure-all for illness or an antidote
to the stresses and strains of modern life. Intoxication was not marketed as a ‘good reason’ to drink Bass beer; in fact, the advertising was
designed to draw consumers away from the very notion of intoxication—
why drink to get drunk when there were so many other reasons to drink
beer? Jean Baudrillard considers the manufacturing of needs and desires
through the practices of marketing and advertising and argues that ideas
6
SELLING ‘THE DrINK Of THE EMPIrE’: BASS & CO. LTD
67
about commodities are often unrelated to their primary function.28 In
this sense, commodities communicate particular ideas about a society
by creating and reinforcing cultural values. Alcohol acts as an intoxicant
but the state of intoxication (drunkenness) was socially undesirable and
therefore, it was necessary to market alcohol as a sign of something else:
health; wellbeing; sociability; Britishness—or perhaps wealth, status and
privilege. When King Edward VII visited the Bass site in 1902, the company seized upon the opportunity to publicise the event by marketing
a special brew called ‘King’s Ale’ which was also known as ‘Bass No. 1
Strong Ale’. This kind of elite endorsement was something that drove
the fortunes of another major alcohol producer in the late Victorian
period, James Buchanan & Co. Ltd.
NOTES
1. Wilson r. G. 1988. ‘The Changing Taste for Beer in Victorian Britain’, in
(eds.) Wilson r. G. and Gourvish T. r. The Dynamics of the International
Brewing Industry Since 1800: London: routledge: p. 99.
2. Ibid.: pp. 93–105.
3. Ibid.
4. foster T. 1990. Pale Ale, U.S.: Brewers Publications: p. 11.
5. Houghland J. E. 2014. ‘The Origins and Diaspora of the IPA’, in (eds.)
Patterson M. and Hoalst-Pullen N. The Geography of Beer: Regions,
Environment & Societies: New York: Springer: pp. 119–131.
6. Ibid.
7. reinarz J. 2007. ‘Promoting the Pint: Ale and Advertising in Late
Victorian and Edwardian England’: Social History of Alcohol and Drugs:
Volume 22:1: p. 26.
8. Owen C. 1992. The Greatest Brewery in the World: A History of Bass,
Ratcliff and Gretton: Chesterfield: Derbyshire record Society.
9. Ibid.: pp. 77–78.
10. Ibid.
11. Ibid.: p. 27.
12. Barnard A. 1889. Noted Breweries of Great Britain and Ireland Volume 1:
London: Joseph Carlson & Sons: p. 46.
13. Ibid.: p. 49.
14. Ibid.: p. 117.
15. National Brewery Archive (NBA), Bass & Co. Infringement Book
1870–1925.
16. The Belfast Morning News: 3 March 1859.
17. The Manchester Courier: 23 May 1886.
68
T. HANDS
18. Northern Whig: ‘Bass’s Pale Ale: Caution Notice’: 21 March 1863.
19. Owen C. 1992. The Greatest Brewery in the World: A History of Bass,
Ratcliff and Gretton: Chesterfield: Derbyshire record Society; Barnard
A. 1889. Noted Breweries of Great Britain and Ireland Volume 1:
London: Joseph Carlson & Sons.
20. NBA: M/5/33: Bass Scrapbook: The Westminster Gazette: 31 January
1894.
21. NBA: Bass, ratcliff & Gretton Ltd Balance Sheets: 1895–1904: Income
from sales of ale, stout and sundry products.
22. NBA: B1/18: Bass & Co. Ltd Comparative Agency Sales Book:
1902–1903.
23. NBA: A/100: Bass, ratcliff & Gretton Ltd, Balance Sheets: 1896–1904.
24. NBA: Bass, ratcliff & Gretton Ltd Balance Sheets: 1895–1914: Income
from sales of ale, stout and sundry products.
25. ‘records of the results of the Microscopical and Chemical Analyses of the
Solids and fluids Consumed by all Classes of the Public: The Bitter Beer,
Pale Ale and India Pale Ale of Messrs Allsopp & Sons and Messrs Bass &
Co of Burton Upon Trent’: The Lancet: Volume 59:1498: 15 May 1852:
pp. 473–477.
26. ‘Analyses of the Bitter Beer and Indian Pale Ales Brewed by Messrs Bass
& Co.’: The Lancet: Volume 1:1498: 15 May 1852: pp. 478–479.
27. An extract of the 1909 article is shown below on the product label.
28. Baudrillard J. 1988. ‘Consumer Society’, in (ed.) Poster M. Selected
Writings: Cambridge: Polity Press: pp. 29–56.
Open Access This chapter is licensed under the terms of the Creative Commons
Attribution 4.0 International License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/
by/4.0/), which permits use, sharing, adaptation, distribution and reproduction
in any medium or format, as long as you give appropriate credit to the original
author(s) and the source, provide a link to the Creative Commons license and
indicate if changes were made.
The images or other third party material in this chapter are included in the
chapter’s Creative Commons license, unless indicated otherwise in a credit line
to the material. If material is not included in the chapter’s Creative Commons
license and your intended use is not permitted by statutory regulation or exceeds
the permitted use, you will need to obtain permission directly from the copyright
holder.
CHAPTEr 7
Making Scotch respectable:
Buchanan and Walker
Many were aware of whisky’s shortcomings and idiosyncrasies. Grain whiskies were smooth but dull. Malts had flavour and charisma, but varied
from batch to batch. The solution was blended whisky which combined
grain and malt and ironed out their inconsistencies to give a consistently
good drink.1
The trade in blended whisky expanded in the second half of the nineteenth century. This was the period of the so-called ‘whisky tide’ when
Scotch whisky became a popular drink south of the border. Spiller
believes that the popularity of Scotch whisky is linked to Walter Scott
romanticism, the growth in Highland tourism and the grouse season
attracting high society.2 The idea of a good Scotch was appealing but
as the quote above suggests, the quality and taste of single malt or grain
whiskies varied. Several key events led to the growth and development
of the trade in blended whisky in the second half of the nineteenth century. The spread of the railway system in the 1850s had opened up the
English market to Scottish products more generally.3 The trade in whisky
expanded after the passing of The 1860 Spirits Act which allowed the
blending of spirits in bonded warehouses without the payment of duty.
The initial purpose of whisky blending was to reduce the cost of pure
malt by mixing it with cheaper grain spirit made using the patent still
method. In 1865, The Scotch Distillers Association was formed through
an amalgamation of six major distillers looking to secure the future of
their businesses by regulating the price and output of grain whisky.4
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As ronald Weir notes, between 1870 and 1914, distillers operated in a
highly competitive free trade environment.5 In 1870, the total output
of home-produced spirits was 24.4 million proof gallons (mpg) and this
rose in 1900 to a total output of 42.8 mpg.6
These events occurred around the same time as the Phylloxera plant
disease wiped out an estimated one-third to a half of french vineyards.
This impacted upon the availability of brandy in England and thus created a niche in the market for the sale of whisky. Brandy was the preferred drink of the middle-and upper-classes and therefore in order to
fill the gap in the brandy market, whisky had to be marketed as a suitable replacement and had to appeal to the tastes of English consumers.
Spanish sherry was another popular drink in the nineteenth century and
it was common for empty sherry barrels to be used by distillers to mature
whisky. Consequently, the whisky matured in sherry barrels tasted like
brandy.7 By the 1890s, there was large-scale production of blended whiskies in Scotland which led to increased competition in both the domestic and foreign markets for whisky. Successful companies like Buchanan,
Dewar and Walker (known as ‘the big three’) made their fortunes from
the production and sale of blended whiskies that were developed primarily for the English market. The success of these products rested in part
on the skill of blenders to create Scotch that suited the English palate
and also on the ability of companies to market scotch as a viable alternative to brandy that would appeal to the middle-and upper-classes.
The transformation of an ordinary commodity like blended whisky
into Scotch, which became a status drink among the social elites, involved
targeting specific groups of consumers and selling them particular ideas
about the substance and James Buchanan did this very successfully.
When Buchanan (who became Lord Woolavington) died in 1935, the
Daily Express ran his obituary with the headline: ‘The secret that made
Lord Woolavington: He found the formula for making England like
Scotch Whisky.’ The article went on to report that Lord Woolavington
had the reputation of being the wealthiest of the great whisky distillers
of modern times. He started work as a clerk and the secret of his success was he found a formula for making Scotch whisky that was palatable to Englishmen.8 James Buchanan (1849–1935) began life as the
son of a Scottish farmer and ended it as Baron Woolavington—businessman, entrepreneur, philanthropist and multimillionaire. Buchanan was
an astute businessman, an opportunist and a risk taker—some of the key
characteristics that defined the ideals of British imperial masculinity.
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MAKING SCOTCH rESPECTABLE: BUCHANAN AND WALKEr
71
In 1879, Buchanan left his employment in the grain trade in Glasgow
and moved to London to work for a whisky firm. By 1884, he had accumulated enough knowledge and contacts in the whisky trade to start his
own business.9 As the retail side of the business grew, Buchanan began
a process of backward integration to control the entire whisky manufacturing process through the purchase and control of distillers and bottling
plants and in 1903 the company was registered as a limited company.10
ronald Weir believes that the success of Buchanan’s early business strategy was down to his determination to climb the social ladder and seek
prestigious clients and outlets for his products.11 Buchanan was adept at
selling his whisky in desirable places and to influential people. He doggedly pursued contracts and quickly managed to get his blend of whisky
sold in London hotels, theatres and other prominent drinking venues. As
Spiller notes, the House of Commons contract in 1885 was a significant
coup that highlights two key features of Buchanan’s sales strategy: one
was exploiting opportunities and the second was promoting the brand.12
The 1890 Select Committee on British and foreign Spirits asked
an analytical chemist, Dr Bell, to test the whisky sold in the Houses of
Parliament which was, of course, Buchanan’s blend (see Appendix for
more detail on Dr Bell’s whisky test). This whisky test was seemingly
conducted in order to aid the committee’s deliberations over the correct labelling of spirits and to establish if products should state the country of origin. The Committee was particularly keen to gather scientific
data and opinions on the differences between blended whiskies and malt
whiskies, and on the purity and strength of whisky and other spirits. The
House of Commons whisky brand fared well from Dr Bell’s chemical
analysis and Buchanan wasted no time in promoting the Committee’s
findings through bottle labelling (see figs. 7.1, 7.2, and 7.3) Buchanan
used bottle labelling as the chief way to cultivate an elite status for his
brands of whisky and no opportunity was missed to convince people that
Buchanan’s whisky was the favoured drink of the social elites.
Buchanan secured royal warrants from Queen Victoria in 1898 and
further royal warrants followed in 1901 from Edward VII and in 1910
from George V. This led to the marketing of the ‘royal Household’
brand of whiskies which filled the gap left when the decision was taken
in 1904 to officially change the ‘House of Commons’ brand to ‘Black
and White’. Although the supply to the House of Commons still appeared
on labelling after this date, it was less blatant until it was finally removed
in 1915. In most historical accounts the reason given for this change is
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T. HANDS
Fig. 7.1 Diageo Archive (DA): Buchanan’s whisky bottle c. 1905, Courtesy of
Diageo PLC13
that due to the design of the bottle customers began asking for ‘that black
and white whisky’ (see fig. 7.1). This suggests that the company were
responsive to consumer feedback and demands and were therefore willing to cast aside social emulation in favour of more straightforward marketing tactics. This may have been true but it is not the only reason why
the House of Commons branding was eventually withdrawn. The records
of the House of Commons Kitchen Committee in conjunction with
Buchanan’s personal correspondence reveal the controversial nature of the
company’s marketing strategy and the determination to pursue it.
When Buchanan secured the contract to supply the Houses of
Parliament in 1885 he saw the advertising potential of this deal. The
words ‘as specially selected for the House of Commons’ appeared along
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MAKING SCOTCH rESPECTABLE: BUCHANAN AND WALKEr
73
Fig. 7.2 DA: Buchanan’s bottles featuring ‘The royal Household’ labels c.
1910, Courtesy of Diageo PLC
with pictures of the Houses of Parliament on the labels of Buchanan’s
blended whiskies. Companies that supplied goods to the royal family also used this style of advertising on their products and therefore it
must have seemed logical to promote the contract with the Houses of
Parliament. However, the House of Commons Kitchen Committee
which was responsible for the purchase and sale of alcoholic drinks
within Parliament appeared to take exception to Buchanan’s marketing
tactics and in 1895 the order to supply whisky went to another firm. In
November 1895 Buchanan wrote a letter to W. Tudor Howell MP, an
acquaintance who had recently been elected to parliament, complaining
that his contract to supply whisky to the House of Commons had not
been renewed
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T. HANDS
Fig. 7.3 DA: Buchanan’s black and white whisky bottle c. 1910 labeled ‘by
warrant of appointment distillers to H. M. The King’, Courtesy of Diageo PLC
I supplied Messrs.’ Alexander Gordon & Co. refreshment Contractors
to the House of Commons with Scotch whisky, from December 1885
until the time when the House took the refreshment Department under
its own control. After this I continued to supply Scotch Whisky to the
House and in December 1886, I was officially notified by the Kitchen
Committee, that I was appointed supplier of Scotch Whisky to the Kitchen
Department. Indeed, up to April 1893, I had practically the entire supply in my hands. Never at any time was there complaint … At the opening of the House in february 1893, I did not receive the customary order
to supply. I called upon Mr Saunders, the Caterer, to ascertain the cause
of this, as there had not been one word of complaint and no communication of any kind from the Committee. Mr Saunders informed me that
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MAKING SCOTCH rESPECTABLE: BUCHANAN AND WALKEr
75
the Committee had expressed displeasure at my making use, as an advertisement, of the fact that I supplied the House of Commons with Scotch
Whisky.14
The letter went on to say that Buchanan believed that he had ‘only done
what any other firm would do’ and used the examples of firms advertising the supply of goods to the royal household. He also pointed out that
his replacement (another whisky supplier Messrs.’ Denman & Co.) were
now using the House of Commons supply as a form of advertisement on
bottles and business cards and he, therefore, felt that he had been particularly targeted
But the great injustice to me is this. My whisky, which has all along been
associated with the House of Commons, is understood by the public
generally, and asked for as ‘The House of Commons Blend’. The Trade
now know that I do not supply the House, and this cessation of custom
is doing me harm, as it is naturally assumed that my whisky has been
dropped for good cause.15
Although there was no further correspondence to or from Mr Howell
about this matter, presumably the letter had some effect because by
1901 Buchanan was once again supplying the Houses of Parliament with
whisky. Labels on Buchanan Blend whisky from 1896 featured an extract
from a letter sent by the manager of the refreshment Department in the
House of Commons, which confirmed that Buchanan had secured the
order to supply whisky to the department ‘until further notice.’16 Other
labels stated ‘The Buchanan Blend, Special quality fine old Scotch whisky
as supplied to The House of Commons’ or ‘As supplied to The House
of Lords.’17 So despite losing and then regaining the contract, Buchanan
calculated that the benefits of advertising outweighed the risks. The success of Buchanan Blend rested upon its reputation as an elite drink and
it was, therefore, vital to ensure continued consumer confidence in the
product.
The records of the Kitchen Committee reveal that they remained displeased with the use of the contract as a form of advertising. In the committee meetings of June 1901, there were discussions of sourcing other
whisky firms to fill the newly installed whisky vat.18 However, in July, it
was resolved that the whisky vat should be filled ‘on this occasion’ with
Buchanan’s blend and that Mr Buchanan should be informed that filling
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T. HANDS
the vat in the House of Commons should not be used as an advertisement.19 Once again Buchanan chose to ignore this warning and carried on using the contract for advertising purposes. In 1905, the newly
launched Black and White Blend labels included the statement ‘Black
and White specially selected for the House of Commons.’20 Interestingly
the Kitchen Committee, although clearly unhappy with the unwanted
advertising, continued to order Buchanan’s whisky. In March 1909, the
committee once again discussed changing whisky suppliers but agreed
to go with Buchanan. It is not clear from the records whether this was
a financial decision or one based upon a preference for the whisky. In
March 1912, it was again resolved to order Buchanan’s whisky but noted
that Mr Buchanan ‘should be told to stop using this contract for advertising and trading purposes.’21 However it took three years for Buchanan
to take any notice and in 1915 all reference to the House of Commons
was removed from labelling and from then on—until the 1990s in fact,
the House of Commons brand was not sold to the general public but
only within parliament. The timing of the move may have had something
to do with the wartime restrictions on alcohol and it may have seemed
inappropriate to draw attention to alcohol consumption within parliament. Yet Buchanan’s reluctance to bend to the will of the Kitchen
Committee any sooner is understandable: The company had staked its
reputation on the supply of products to the highest institutions in the
country and used advertising as a means of cultivating and promoting
the idea that Scotch was a respectable drink. By 1915, these objectives
had been achieved and therefore removing the House of Commons
branding but maintaining the supply was a logical concession.
Buchanan & Co. invested time and money in formulating and implementing many other advertising strategies besides bottle labelling. By
the turn of the century, the company was already a visible presence in
London due to its delivery horse and carts, which were distinctive
because all the horses were of the same breed, and were well trained and
groomed. The drivers were smartly dressed and the vans were highly polished and clearly showed the Buchanan company name. By this time the
company had developed a range of different whisky brands which varied
in terms of price, age and strength. In 1897 Buchanan wrote to an old
acquaintance in Kilmarnock, who was a master blender, to ask for advice
on developing a cheaper brand of whisky ‘I am anxious to get as successful a result as I can, and I am very desirous of getting the order, which
will be large; but unfortunately it will be principally entirely a matter of
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MAKING SCOTCH rESPECTABLE: BUCHANAN AND WALKEr
77
price.’22 In the 1890s when alcohol sales were falling, it was important to
promote cheaper products in order to broaden and develop the domestic market. The company began using the trade press for advertising and
between 1897 and 1898 adverts appeared in periodicals with a picture
of Buchanan Blend along with a quote from The Lancet which stated
‘Our analysis shows this to be a remarkably pure spirit and therefore
well adapted for medicinally dietetic purposes’. The main advert heading stated ‘Ordered by MPs and Doctors’. Adverts also appeared in illustrated weekly newspapers and provincial newspapers.23
Between 1904 and 1910 the subject of advertising was a constant
theme raised at company board meetings. Buchanan sought to expand
the business in England and Scotland and one of the most promising ways to do so was through the use of railway advertising and the
sale of whisky in railway refreshment rooms, buffet cars and hotels. In
September 1906, it was agreed that advertising show cards should be
placed in North Eastern railway refreshment rooms. It was resolved to
increase advertising costs to one pound per show card per annum for not
more than 30 show cards.24 Over the next few years, the committee also
agreed to place posters and show cards in the Midland, Great Northern
railway, London and South Western railway, G&r and Bakerloo railway
lines. It was proposed that the posters displayed in refreshment rooms
and stations featured ‘Morning Nip’ advertisements, presumably encouraging consumers to drink Buchanan’s whisky on the morning commute
to work. Between 1908 and 1909 there were discussions of expanding
advertising to the Eastern counties and Scotland and it was decided to
place posters in the principle railway stations in Scotland and to accept
advertising space at Glasgow Central Station for £100 per year. It was
also agreed to place posters at various other Scottish railway stations and
to pay 12 guineas to Highland railway for stocking Buchanan’s whisky
for sale in buffet cars and in hotels. In addition, the committee agreed
to advertise in Liverpool and surrounding stations to the total of 100
posters.25
Other advertising strategies were discussed such as theatre and hotel
advertising but only certain ‘high class’ venues such as The ritz hotel
and The Lyric Theatre were deemed suitable. At one board meeting in
february 1908, the subject of playing cards cropped up. The company
had received letters from customers and others suggesting playing card
advertising for the home trade but the suggestion was unanimously dismissed. This seems strange because the company had been reaching out
78
T. HANDS
to a broader range of consumers through newspaper and railway advertising, which suggests a strategy of selling products to consumers of all
social classes but perhaps the association of playing cards with gambling
was viewed as undesirable.
After 1910, the company developed the Black and White brand advertising which used the concept of ‘black and white’ to symbolise the ideals of British imperialism. The adverts initially featured two dogs: one a
West Highland terrier and the other a Scottish terrier—one black and
one white. The dogs had ‘character’ and breeding and they were distinctive because of their colours, which were contrasting and oppositional.
Yet despite their differences the dogs always stood together, side by
side, sometimes fighting a common enemy. for example, an advert from
1909 (fig. 7.4) showed the two dogs sitting side by side with the caption ‘Still Watchers’ while another advert from 1910 featured the black
and white dogs chained together chasing a rat and a cat.26 The advertising also drew upon other ‘black and white’ themes such as the black
and white women advert from 1909 (fig. 7.5), which showed a ‘black’
woman walking behind a young ‘white’ woman in a manner suggesting
a colonial mistress and maid relationship. Like the dog adverts, the concept of black and white represented a contrasting but seemingly complimentary relationship—there could not be one without the other; the
white needed the black and vice versa; the colours represented a ‘good
blend’ like the Scotch.
Fig. 7.4 DA: Buchanan’s Black and White advert: 1909, Courtesy of Diageo PLC
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MAKING SCOTCH rESPECTABLE: BUCHANAN AND WALKEr
79
Fig. 7.5 DA: Buchanan’s Black and White advert: 1909, Courtesy of Diageo PLC
Of course, Buchanan was not the only company to commodify British
imperialism. An advert for four Crown Scotch Whisky that appeared in
the trade journal The National Guardian in September 1900 ran with
the caption ‘A Powerful Peacemaker’ and showed a sketch of soldiers
and prisoners in an army camp during the Boer War, sharing glasses of
whisky. Beneath this scene the advert claimed
While a prisoner of war in Pretoria, The Earl of rosslyn, in a letter to the
London Daily Mail of 11th July 1900 shows, how as soon as the news of
Lord roberts’ approach reached the town almost everyone went wild with
excitement. He says – “Hollander and Britisher, soldier and Boer peasant,
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T. HANDS
prisoner and warder, joined in a mutual expression of esteem and a glass of
robert Brown’s four Crown Scotch Whisky.
By 1900 Scotch was an imperial drink. Companies like Buchanan, Dewar
and Walker had built up large export markets using imperial trade links.
By this time Buchanan sold products in Australia, New Zealand, India,
South Africa, Jamaica, South America, North Africa, Canada and the
United States. An advert for Walker’s whisky from 1910 showed an
image of the famous ‘Johnnie Walker striding man’ with the caption
Born in 1820 and still going strong – so when someone out in Calcutta
or Borneo or Cape Town or Sydney or Valparaiso or any other little jaunt
from ‘home’ laments that he cannot get the good old Scotch they have at
‘home’, call for Johnnie Walker, let him taste it, and tell him about the vast
ageing reserve stock and the ninety years experience that make possible the
guarantee.27
By 1910, Walker had developed the ‘Johnnie Walker striding man’ character, which was distinctive and resembled a rather (by that time) antiquated nineteenth-century upper-class dandy. In the adverts, the striding
man was ‘going strong since 1820’ because this was the year when the
company first began trading as a licensed grocer in Kilmarnock, Scotland.
Like Buchanan, Walker also believed in the power of advertising and of
creating a brand image that both promoted and reflected the ideals of
British culture and imperialism. In the 1911 ‘fashions come and go’
campaign, the striding man was inserted into a variety of settings which
depicted him as a gentlemanly protector. The adverts showed scenes of
Johnnie Walker helping well-to-do ladies step over puddles; shielding
them from rain and high winds and ‘helping’ ladies play a game of croquet.28 These adverts drew upon concepts of class and gender in order
to sell ideas about whisky to middle-class women who were the group
most likely to buy Scotch from licensed grocers. The adverts promoted
the idea that Johnnie Walker’s whisky embodied the ideals of respectable
masculinity—and therefore Scotch was a man’s drink but it would certainly ‘help’ if ladies knew which brand to choose.
The success of companies like Buchanan and Walker lay in the ability
to cultivate and expand the domestic and foreign markets for blended
Scotch whisky. In Scotland, blended whisky was commonly drunk by
the working classes because it was cheap and often bad—either watered
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MAKING SCOTCH rESPECTABLE: BUCHANAN AND WALKEr
81
down or adulterated with other intoxicants. The better quality blended
‘Highland’ whiskies were often produced in or around the central belt
near Glasgow or Edinburgh and were subject to ‘Scotch myths’ marketing in order to boost sales. James Buchanan went further to completely reinvent blended whisky as a desirable and respectable drink of
the British elites. His dogged pursuit of advertising via product labelling
ensured that Buchanan whisky became firmly associated with ideas about
quality, taste and privilege. The Johnnie Walker striding man is another
example of product marketing designed to elevate the status of whisky
and to Anglicise it—making it conceptually palatable for the English
market. Both companies knew that the use value of whisky as an intoxicant held little currency compared to its cultural value and more specifically, it’s potential as a source of cultural capital. Advertising played a
key role in this process because it was vital to generate and maintain consumer interest, confidence and loyalty. The economic value of alcohol—
in terms of expanding the drink trade and generating tax revenue—was
largely dependent upon maintaining and developing the cultural value of
the substance. If the cultural value evaporated amid a climate of temperance campaigning and legislative controls then there could be no market for alcohol. Therefore, the best way to keep people drinking was to
sell them ideas about drinks that veered away from alcohol’s primary
effect of intoxication and instead promoted contemporary social values.
However, as the Gilbey records show, by the turn of the century, maintaining the market for alcohol became more complex as consumers were
increasingly drawn towards particular brands of alcoholic drinks that they
associated with ideas about quality and taste.
NOTES
1. Townsend B. 2011. Scotch Missed: Scotland’s Lost Distilleries: Glasgow:
Neil Wilson Publishing Ltd: p. 31.
2. Spiller B. 1984. The Chameleon’s Eye: James Buchanan & Company
Limited 1884–1984: London and Glasgow: James Buchanan & Co. Ltd:
p. 8.
3. Ibid.: p. 9.
4. Weir r. B. 1982. ‘Distilling and Agriculture’ in Agricultural History
Review: pp. 49–62: www.bahs.org.uk/AGHr/ArTICLES/32nla4.pdf:
accessed 4/11/2014.
5. Ibid.
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T. HANDS
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
Ibid.: p. 50.
Townsend B. 2011: p. 30.
‘James Buchanan’s Obituary’: The Daily Express: 27 August 1935.
Atherton f. W. 1931. History of House Buchanan: No Other Publication
Details.
Weir r. B. 1974. ‘The Distilling Industry in Scotland in the Nineteenth
and Early Twentieth Centuries’: PhD Dissertation: Edinburgh University:
pp. 552–560.
Ibid.
Spiller B. 1984: p. 12.
The label on the bottle states: At the British and foreign Spirits Select
Committee appointed by the government in 1890, under the presidency
of Lord Playfair, Dr Bell, CB, the chief analytical chemist of the government spoke in terms of high appreciation of a sample of our Scotch
whisky saying ‘from the general fine character of the sample there is reason to believe that it has been warehoused for many years etc.’ fifteen
years later the Medical Magazine (October 1905) says the statement
made by Dr Bell is as true today as it was then.
DA: Acc1033671: Buchanan’s Letter Book: 1888–1897: Letter to W.
Tudor Howell Esq MP: Dated 9 November 1895.
DA: Acc1033671: Buchanan’s Letter Book: 1888–1897: Letter to W.
Tudor Howell Esq MP: Dated 9 November 1895.
DA: Acc 125/3: Buchanan’s Label Book: 1896.
DA: Acc 125/3: Buchanan’s Label Book: 1896.
UK Parliamentary Archives (PA): House of Commons Kitchen
Committee
records:
HC/CL/CO/EA/2/2:
Minute
Books:
1901–1905.
Ibid.
DA: Acc 125/3: Buchanan’s Label Book: 1905.
PA: House of Commons Kitchen Committee records: HC/CL/CO/
EA/2/3: 1906–1912.
DA: Letter Book: Acc103367/(1/2): 1897–1902: Letter from James
Buchanan to David Sneddon: Dated 28 December 1897.
Spiller B. 1984: p. 34.
DA: Acc 100045/1: Buchanan Minute Books: 1906.
DA: Acc 100045/1: Buchanan Minute Books: 1906–1910.
DA: 884/43: Buchanan Black and White Adverts: 1910–1911.
DA: John Walker ‘Striding Man’ Advertising: 1908–1911.
DA: John Walker ‘Striding Man’ Advertising: 1908–1911.
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MAKING SCOTCH rESPECTABLE: BUCHANAN AND WALKEr
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the permitted use, you will need to obtain permission directly from the copyright
holder.
CHAPTEr 8
Selling the ‘Illusion’ of the Brand:
W & A Gilbey
There are indeed many people who want to buy limited quantities of the
best brandy than of the best champagne, as it is looked upon somewhat
as a medicine that must be kept in the house, and it is just as difficult to
get them to believe this can be obtained without the brand of Hennessey
or Moet, as the finest champagne can be obtained under W&A Gilbey’s
Castle 4a or Castle 5a. We shall therefore, make just as large a profit on
any goods we sell under these brands as if we sold them under the brand
of W&A Gilbey, and shall thereby meet the wants and prejudices of two
classes of consumers, and at the same time reap equal advantages both
present and future out of either.1
W & A Gilbey began business in the wine and spirit trade in the 1850s as
a family company run by three brothers, Walter, Alfred and Henry along
with other male family members. The business expanded after the 1860
Licensing Act which led to the growth in the off-licence trade. The company appointed sales agents in most principle cities in Britain in order to
stimulate and secure business with licensed grocers. Gilbey’s interests lay
principally in the retail side of the trade and the company bought wines
and spirits which they either sold directly on to customers or bottled and
labelled as their own brand of goods. However, as the quote above indicates, the demand for branded goods increased towards the end of the
century and the company was forced to restructure its business model in
order to meet customer demand and secure the market for its products.
© The Author(s) 2018
T. Hands, Drinking in Victorian and Edwardian Britain,
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-92964-4_8
85
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T. HANDS
The company produced a price list in 1896 that was designed to promote its market position as the leading retailer of wines and spirits. It
claimed that during 1895 every 14th bottle of wine and every 35th bottle of spirits consumed in Britain had been sold by W & A Gilbey.2 The
price lists from 1870 to 1896 featured a broad range of wines, spirits and
beers that were purchased and then rebranded under Gilbey’s ‘Castle’
brand name. The Castle branding was given to a range of drinks, such as
brandy, gin, whisky, sherry, port, liqueurs, champagnes and wines. The
price lists were extensive and contained detailed information on the types
of drinks, their origin, strength, qualities and uses. Although the Castle
brand dominated the price lists, by 1890, sales agents reported complaints from customers who wanted particular brands of wine and spirits
that Gilbey did not supply. The company was therefore forced to rethink
its position on the supply of branded goods.
There was a realisation that in order to compete in a changing market for alcohol, the company would have to give customers what they
wanted—which was the ‘illusion’ cast by particular brand names which
conferred ideas about quality, taste and status. The committee agreed to
expand the sale of branded goods and decided to deal with five prominent wine houses: Croft & Co., Silva & Cosens (Dow), Gonzales Byass
& Co., Ingham Whitaker and Cossart Gordon & Co.3 It was also agreed
to provisionally deal with Burgoyne & Co. for the supply of Australian
wines because it was noted that ‘the introduction of Australian Wines has
afforded us an insight of the power of certain brands over the public, and
the additional customers that our agents have secured for them.’4 The
committee also discussed the purchase of wine that had been rebranded
under the Castle label which simply listed the type of wine, for example
sauvignon etc. It was noted that
It is a very fortunate thing for us that a knowledge of brands on the part
of the public have only gone as far as champagne and brandy, which has
naturally been owing to their having been bottled abroad, when the shippers have been enabled to place their name before the public rather than
the wine merchant on this side. The reputation of champagne is entirely
owing to the fact that the wine must be bottled in the place of production
… It would however be impossible to make one name famous alike for
ports, sherries, whiskies, brandies and W&A Gilbey never can hope to do
so. They can, however, easily make themselves famous for supplying the
finest brands of every country and it is important that they should lose no
8
SELLING THE ‘ILLUSION’ Of THE BrAND: W & A GILBEY
87
time in endeavouring to make the names of the Houses they have allied
themselves with equally famous to the public as they now are to the trade
before attempts are made to supply the public with other.5
By selling brands that would in essence compete with their own brand of
goods, the company believed it would secure its position in the market
because it could promote its own goods alongside others. In the 1860s,
the company had entered into a contract with John Jameson & Sons to
purchase large quantities of whisky from Jameson’s Irish distillery. The
whisky was held in bonded warehouses in Dublin and then marketed
under the Gilbey brand name ‘Castle Grand JJ’. This branding partnership had been successful in securing sales of Jameson’s whisky until the
1890s when Scotch whisky captured the market position previously held
by Irish whisky. By 1890, it was felt that rebranding Jameson’s whisky
would help boost sales and therefore all reference to W & A Gilbey was
removed from the labelling. However, this clearly did not remedy the situation and in 1897 the committee produced a report, which included an
interview with Jameson himself. The report stated that
He [Jameson] referred to the decline in England in the consumption of
Irish, compared with the great strides made in Scotch whisky. He remarked
in a jocular way “we are not going to give up the game yet, but want to do
all we can to popularise Dublin whisky in England, and we think you can
help us.”6
Jameson suggested that Gilbey’s sales agents ask grocers to display show
cards for JJ whisky alongside any adverts for Scotch. Jameson did not
want to advertise his products in any other way and refused advertising in railway stations but preferred adverts in grocers at the point of
sale. He was told that it was not within the company’s power to compel customers to advertise Jameson’s whisky. Jameson pointed out that
their mutual arrangement and success depended on the continued trade
in Irish whisky in England and that in Ireland he could ‘run alone’ but
needed help to sell his goods in England.7 However, the committee felt
that they could only go so far in promoting Jameson’s whisky and if
sales in Irish whisky in England were declining then the company’s focus
should instead be placed on the marketing of Scotch.
rebranding Castle Grand JJ had not halted declining sales in Irish
whisky but the committee still believed that removing the W & A Gilbey
88
T. HANDS
name from Jameson’s whisky and their own Glen Spey Scotch would
improve brand confidence. The 1897 committee report effectively recommended the removal of the Gilbey name from all but the cheapest
brands.8 The logic for this was based on an analysis of sales which identified four types of consumers: first, there were those who wanted to buy
the cheapest products if they were known to be genuine; Second were
those who wanted a ‘fair medium price article.’; Third were consumers
who wanted the finest quality products regardless of name or brand;
fourth were those who wanted the best brand regardless of quality. The
report went on to state that
The public cannot be brought to feel that W&A Gilbey with all their
advantages of wealth and commercial knowledge which they give them
credit for, possess the same opportunities of buying ports and sherries
or Marsala and Madeiras as Croft and Dow or Gonzales, Crossart and
Ingham. They imagine these brands are connected with the production of
certain favoured vineyards and form monopolies of these Houses … If during the last few years we have increased our reputation for selling pure but
cheap wine, we have also considerably increased our commercial reputation
and the public are disposed to place unbounded confidence in us when
we state that Croft’s Port and Gonzales Sherry are the finest, but are very
loathe to believe us when we endeavour to crack open our own goods such
as Castle J Port and Castle A Sherry, no matter what the quality may be.
… The whole of our success is to be traced to names, brands, vintages etc.
which by degrees we have added to our price list.9
from the analysis of consumers and based on the information from
sales agents, the company had decided that the Castle label could only
fill a certain niche in the market. By the turn of the century, consumers wanted branded goods and therefore the company focus had to shift
accordingly. When the business had taken off in the 1860s, Gilbey’s customers were less ‘brand driven’ and were content to buy many products
from reputable wine and spirit merchants. By the turn of the century
however, the company name and reputation could no longer be relied
upon to generate sufficient alcohol sales because unbranded products
could not be consumed conspicuously. Brand names of particular types
of alcoholic drinks were well known—even the more expensive ones and
sometimes the form of advertising was particularly innovative.
A good example of this was found in the music halls which emerged
in the second half of the nineteenth century from pubs that offered
8
SELLING THE ‘ILLUSION’ Of THE BrAND: W & A GILBEY
89
entertainments.10 These places ranged from small ‘penny gaffs’ located
in pubs to large venues such as theatres.11 By the turn of the century,
music halls had grown in popularity by offering cheap entertainment to
the urban working classes in cities across Britain.12 One of the most popular acts in the late Victorian period was a musical pastiche of upper-class
men known as the ‘swell song’. Bailey describes a swell as ‘a lordly figure
of resplendent dress and confident air whose exploits centered on drink
and women.’13 The most famous (or indeed infamous) performer of the
swell song was George Leybourne with his act ‘Champagne Charlie’.
Leybourne’s theatrical success was built upon his sharp observations of
the drinking habits of the rich, which was wrung out for a laugh to the
appreciation of the music hall crowds. Leybourne wrote the lyrics for
Champagne Charlie
The way I gained my title’s
By a hobby which I’ve got
Of never letting others pay
However long the shot
Whoever drinks at my expense
Are treated all the same
from Dukes to Lords to cabmen down
I make them drink champagne
from coffee and from supper rooms
from Poplar to Pall Mall
The girls on seeing me exclaim
“Oh what a champagne swell”!
The notion ‘tis of everyone
If ‘twere not for my name
And causing so much to be drunk
They’d never make champagne
Some epicures like Burgundy,
Hock, Claret and Moselle,
But Moet’ s vintage only
Satisfies this champagne swell
What matters if to bed I go
Dull head and muddled thick
A bottle in the morning
Sets me right then very quick
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Chorus
for Champagne Charlie is my name
Champagne Charlie is my game
Good for any game at night, my boys
Good for any game at night, my boys
for Champagne Charlie is my name
Champagne Charlie is my game
Good for any game at night, my boys
Who’ll come and join me in the spree?14
The idea that Champagne Charlie kept the champagne industry in business through his prolific drinking bore some reality to the free supply
of champagne gifted to Leybourne from London wine merchants in
return for publicity.15 So it would seem that the reference to Moet was
perhaps intentional. Although there is no evidence to suggest that Gilbey
& Co. supplied champagne to Leybourne or any other music hall performer, the Champagne Charlie act demonstrates the ways in which ideas
about particular brands of alcoholic drinks were propagated.
In the consumer society that emerged in the late nineteenth century,
Veblen’s ideas about conspicuous consumption were evident. The Gilbey
records show that customers were increasingly brand-driven, demanding particular types of wines, spirits and champagnes that could be consumed as markers of wealth, status or taste. The company knew that it
was impossible to convince customers that its own-brand products were
of an equal quality and therefore relegated only the cheapest products to
the company branding. This in turn elevated the status of branded goods
to those which were more expensive and therefore all the more exclusive
and desirable. In this sense, the ‘illusion’ of the brand was a powerful
and persuasive way to secure the market for alcohol.
NOTES
1. Diageo Archives (DA): 100433/1: W & A Gilbey Committee Minutes:
1890.
2. DA: 100422/190: W & A Gilbey Price Lists: 1870–1896.
3. Ibid.
4. DA: 100433/1: W & A Gilbey Committee Minutes: 1890.
5. DA: 100433/1: W & A Gilbey Committee Minutes: 1890.
6. DA: 100433/1: W & A Gilbey Committee Minutes: 1897.
7. DA: 100433/1: W & A Gilbey Committee Minutes: 1897.
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SELLING THE ‘ILLUSION’ Of THE BrAND: W & A GILBEY
91
8. DA: 100433/1: W & A Gilbey Committee Minutes: 1897.
9. DA: 100433/1: W & A Gilbey Committee Minutes: 1897.
10. Maloney P. 1993. Scotland and the Music Hall 1850–1914: Manchester:
Manchester University Press: pp. 24–57.
11. Bailey P. 2003. Popular Culture and Performance in the Victorian City:
Cambridge: Cambridge University Press: p. 100.
12. Maloney: pp. 24–57.
13. Bailey: p. 101.
14. Ibid.: pp. 109–110.
15. Ibid.
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PArT III
Drinking in Victorian and Edwardian Britain
The final part contains four chapters that offer different and sometimes
contrasting perspectives on the reasons why alcohol was consumed
and on the drinking cultures that emerged from the Victorian period.
Alcohol played a key role in the everyday lives of men and women
across Britain. It was not only consumed in pubs, restaurants, theatres,
refreshment rooms and many other public places but also in the privacy
of people’s homes or in private members clubs. People drank for many
different reasons and these reasons ranged across social class, gender
and region. In the nineteenth century, alcohol still held a vital place in
medical practice and was prescribed for a range of physiological and psychological illnesses. Even when its use in therapeutics began to fall out
of fashion, late Victorian consumers relied upon alcohol as a tonic that
could be used for the purposes of self-medication.
CHAPTEr 9
Doctor’s Orders: A Prescription to Drink
During the last few years there has been a decided boom in certain sophisticated wines – ‘dietetic’ or ‘tonic’ or ‘restorative’ beverages. Undoubtedly
the public imagination has been captured by the ingenious methods pursued in pushing these productions … [Of] those most puffed in the newspapers and advertised in the press and on public boardings, it may be safely
affirmed that they have no appreciable therapeutic influence other than
that possessed by any of the ordinary wines on the market.1
Throughout the Victorian and Edwardian periods, people consumed
alcohol for health reasons. This was driven in part by the use of alcohol in medical practice and also by commercial factors, which played a
significant role in promoting ideas about the health benefits of consuming certain alcoholic drinks. The quote above is from an article on the
sale of tonic wines in the British Journal of Inebriety in 1910. The article
offered a scathing attack on what the writer referred to as the ‘ingenious’ and ‘aggressive’ marketing of tonic wines which were accused of
holding little therapeutic value and could potentially lead to alcoholism.2
The writer, a doctor and magistrate, noted the popularity of tonic wines
which were one of many types of proprietary remedies widely available in
the late Victorian period. This chapter explores the issue of drinking for
health in the late Victorian and early Edwardian periods by examining
the controversy that surrounded the medicinal use of alcohol. Debates
about the efficacy of alcohol as a therapeutic agent circulated in medical
journals towards the end of the century. An analysis of hospital records
© The Author(s) 2018
T. Hands, Drinking in Victorian and Edwardian Britain,
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-92964-4_9
95
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T. HANDS
shows that although its usage diminished in the period leading up to the
first World War, doctors still relied upon it to treat a range of physiological and psychological illnesses. Alcohol had been used as a staple drug in
medical practice since the seventeenth century.3 Its usage within medicine continued throughout the nineteenth and twentieth centuries and
the general public therefore had good reason to believe in its medicinal
power. Prescriptions for alcohol became increasingly popular in the nineteenth century when more heroic methods of treatment such as cupping
and bloodletting fell out of use. However, doctors came under attack
from temperance campaigners both inside and outside of the medical
profession because a prescription to drink had moral and medical implications and by the end of the century, its usage within hospitals and asylums had declined.
By the late nineteenth century, debates existed on the therapeutic value of alcohol and despite its enduring status as a staple medicine, some doctors avoided prescribing it altogether. At the core of
these debates was the issue of therapeutic nihilism—whether prescribing alcohol actually did more harm than good. The effects of alcohol
on health were poorly understood and medical opinions were not only
based on scientific evidence but sometimes on moral grounds. In a presidential address given to the British Society for the Study of Inebriety
in July 1907, Dr Harry Campbell scrutinised the contents of a recently
published medical manifesto on the influence of alcohol on health. He
focused on a section of the manifesto which claimed that in the opinion
of the medical signatories moderate drinking was beneficial to health
It is [according to the manifesto] the “moderate” use of alcoholic beverages that is held to be “usually beneficial.” Now, what are we to understand by moderate? The signatories make no attempt to define the word.
They should have told us what they regard as the limits of moderation how much, i.e., a person may drink daily without forfeiting the claim to be
considered a moderate drinker. Is moderate indulgence the equivalent of
one, two, three, or four glasses of whisky per diem? Are we to take as the
standard of moderation, the smallest or the largest quantity of alcohol daily
consumed by any one of the signatories, or the mean of their respective
total daily consumption? We need explicit information on this head. The
term “moderate” is in truth a highly elastic one, possessing very different
meanings for different individuals. I recently asked a casual acquaintance
what he understood by moderate and he gave as answer “half a bottle of
whisky a day.” And I told him that I was going to suggest two glasses, or
9
DOCTOr’S OrDErS: A PrESCrIPTION TO DrINK
97
their equivalent to which he replied that a man who limited himself to so
small a quantity was to all intents and purposes a teetotaller!4
Campbell went further to suggest that the failure to quantify moderate
drinking was matched by a failure to stipulate which types of alcohol
should be considered ‘moderate drinks’ that were beneficial to health.
He believed that the quality and type of alcohol were key factors in
determining its effects on human health. Campbell concluded that
The mouthpiece of the British medical profession, would have you to
understand that nine-tenths of you will be benefited in health by the moderate use of alcoholic beverages, but we leave it to you to decide what a
moderate quantity is, and you may choose any kind of alcoholic drink your
fancy prompts.5
Doctors could not agree on ‘healthy’ amounts of alcohol consumption
or if alcohol was beneficial in therapeutics. In a presidential address to
The British Medical Association in 1905, Dr James Barr gave a speech
on the use of alcohol as a therapeutic agent in which he argued that less
alcohol was prescribed because of ‘fashion’ rather than from any scientific
reasoning on its usefulness as a medicine
There is no other drug in the pharmacopeia that has such an accommodating action to circumstances. It would seem as if in any particular case we
could never predicate as to whether alcohol is going to do good or harm.
Surely some indications could be laid down for its use so that we should
know beforehand what effect it is going to produce.6
Barr called for more scientific research on the uses and effects of alcohol as a therapeutic drug because he believed that it remained useful in medicine and more importantly, despite the controversy over its
use, many doctors still prescribed it anyway. To illustrate this point Barr
set out the principal therapeutic uses of alcohol in treating a range of
illnesses: In the treatment of pneumonia he personally recommended the
use of a ‘light draught beer’ as a sedative and in typhoid fever a ‘pint of
good bitter’ was given in small doses over twenty-four hours. Cases of
vomiting were treated with small doses of champagne and brandy was
administered in cases of collapse or shock. for palliative care, he noted
that diluted brandy was often given freely in the last days of life and for
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T. HANDS
invalids it was common to prescribe ‘a good port’ during periods of convalescence.7 In the treatment of nervous diseases, alcohol was used as a
sedative and an analgesic. Cases of neuralgia were treated with a ‘glass
of good stout’ and for cases of angina, hot whisky or brandy were recommended.8 Barr described alcohol as a versatile drug that was available in a variety of forms that could be used to treat a range of illnesses.
He believed that this made it a valuable medicine that should not be
swept aside by fashion or moral concerns. Yet some doctors were critical of what they believed to be the morally questionable practice of prescribing alcohol. In 1885, Dr Norman Kerr, the prominent temperance
campaigner and founder of the British Society for the Study of Inebriety,
urged caution when prescribing any alcohol
We can never forget that intoxicating drinks cannot be ordered without
some risk of a taste for them being acquired, and the remedy itself proving worse than the original disease. This risk was exemplified in the case
of a favourite dog of two maiden ladies of my acquaintance. This animal
was seized with an attack of acute pneumonia. The veterinary surgeon gave
the dog brandy; and the dog recovered, whether because of or in spite of
the stimulant, I cannot tell. Ever since, if he hears anyone speak of brandy,
he is up in a moment on his hind legs, begging for the seductive physic.
Though I believe the cases of what may be called ‘medical drunkenness’
are not nearly as numerous as is popularly asserted, I have known instances
where the medical prescription of strong drinks has been the beginning of
a career of excess.9
Kerr’s opinion was based on his belief that for some individuals (and
dogs), alcohol was a dangerously addictive substance. He, therefore,
believed that the continued use of alcohol in therapeutics could lead to
an increase in cases of ‘medical drunkenness’ which could in turn damage the reputation of the profession. In a speech given two decades later
to the Lancashire and Cheshire branch of the British Medical Profession,
Dr Charles Macfie echoed Kerr’s views regarding the use of alcohol in
medicine.10 Macfie believed that doctors had a duty to promote and
support temperance reform, particularly when increasing scientific evidence and medical opinions suggested that alcohol was not conducive to
good health. Like Kerr, he also believed that by continuing to prescribe
alcohol, the medical profession risked damaging its reputation. Macfie
gave the example of recent accusations by some temperance groups that
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DOCTOr’S OrDErS: A PrESCrIPTION TO DrINK
99
increasing amounts of inebriety were due to taking alcohol ‘under doctor’s orders’
This insinuation is a glaring economy of the truth and before such insinuations are published to the world, one would expect any fair minded society
or individual to first probe the truth about ‘doctor’s orders.’ There are two
sides to a ladder. No drunkard ever takes the blame for his or her degraded
condition as the profession so well knows. According to them, their own
family circle and nearest friends are their direst enemies; and how often has
a chimerical ‘doctor’s order’ been given as an excuse! I could understand
our being urgently requested to avoid prescribing alcohol in any form, on
account of the moderate use of it becoming a habit and ultimately developing into a craving. The medical profession is as anxious that alcohol
should not be abused and that human beings should not suffer in mind
and body from its effects, as any teetotaller can possibly be.11
Although he had reservations about the validity of the claims made by
the temperance groups, Macfie remained concerned that prescribing
alcohol could bring the profession into disrepute because a prescription
to drink could be risky—not only in terms of ethics but also in the damage it might do to professional reputation. Yet others were concerned
about the implications of reducing or stopping the use of alcohol in
medicine. In an article in the British Medical Journal in 1890, one doctor (who remained anonymous) highlighted the differences in alcohol
use between workhouses and general hospitals
The general hospitals throughout the country have very materially reduced
their expenditure on alcohol in all its forms, but the general hospitals have
not abandoned its use in toto … The class of cases in the union infirmaries [where no alcohol was prescribed] are exactly identical with those in
the general hospitals. The workhouse medical officer has to treat pneumonia and other acute diseases and grave surgical operations are performed
in many union hospitals. At the Leeds General Infirmary alcohol is used.
Must we conclude that the staff of Leeds General Infirmary are wrong in
continuing this agent?12
Evidently, this doctor was concerned that the welfare of patients was
put at risk by a distinction based on moral rather than medical grounds.
Alcohol still held value within therapeutics and in surgical procedures
and therefore to deny it to patients within workhouse hospitals must
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have seemed ethically questionable. However, temperance debates aside,
by the early twentieth century there was growing scientific evidence for
restricting the use of alcohol in medicine. Macfie referred to several studies that challenged the prevailing view that alcohol provided stimulation
in cases of disease and debility.13 These studies showed that alcohol also
had an irritant or depressive action on nerves and body tissues. Macfie
also pointed out that there were alternatives to alcoholic stimulation in
therapeutics
In turning to our Pharmacopeia and our Extra Pharmacopeia for substitutes for alcohol, we are at once impressed with the fact that most drugs
have more or less stimulant properties, either local or general, for example,
phosphorus, arsenic and iron, chloroform and the ethers, and the various
alkaloids – all stimulant in medicinal doses.14
By the early twentieth century, there were pharmaceutical alternatives
to alcohol that challenged its efficacy as a drug. Yet some doctors still
believed that alcohol had an important place within therapeutics. In a
speech given in 1909 to the Border Counties Branch of the British
Medical Profession, Dr James MacDonald set out a convincing argument
in favour of the continued, judicious use of alcohol in the treatment of
illness and disease.15 He argued that advances in medical knowledge
were not sufficient to dismiss the role of alcohol as a valuable medicine
There are of course habits and fashions in therapeutics as in everything
else. fashions in the past have sometimes been regulated by the prevailing theory of the origin of disease. In the days, for example, when diseases
were set down to inflammation, bloodletting was all the vogue, and the
use of alcohol was looked on as a perilous enormity. Then came the period
when our bodily ills were ascribed to lowered vitality, and the stimulants
were administered to therapeutic excess. At the present day, the bacterial
origin of disease does not materially affect the employment of alcohol,
which is generally given with judgment and discretion.16
In other words, the advent of germ theory did not radically change
the role of alcohol in therapeutics. MacDonald believed that increased
knowledge of the aetiology of disease meant that alcohol was prescribed
more accurately and only when absolutely necessary. He argued that this
change was not enough for the medical advocates of temperance reform
who warned the profession to stop prescribing alcohol or face ‘the high
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DOCTOr’S OrDErS: A PrESCrIPTION TO DrINK
101
road to therapeutic nihilism.’17 Which meant that by continuing to prescribe alcohol the medical profession risked doing more harm than good.
MacDonald questioned the professional integrity of medical men who
put their ‘extreme’ personal beliefs about temperance above their duty to
patients. He cited an article published in The Lancet in 1908 written by a
group of ‘well-known medical experts’ who expressed the view that alcohol was a ‘rapid and trustworthy restorative’ that in some cases could be
a ‘life saving drug.’18 MacDonald believed that the majority of doctors
shared these views
The manifesto discharges a kindly service as a protest against the uncompromising opposition of a body of extremists to the rational use of alcohol.
It does more – it applies a spur to the indifference displayed by many medical men with regard to an eminently practical question. It is true that on
minor points a divergence of opinion exists, but on fundamental principles
there is common agreement.19
This ‘common agreement’ was evident in hospital records which show
that up until the first World War alcohol was still used in large urban
voluntary hospitals and asylums. Although its use may have courted controversy among medical men and temperance organisations, the continued use of alcohol indicates that it was still widely regarded as a reliable
therapeutic drug. There were very few prescription drugs that offered
the same degree of versatility to treat fevers, disease, debility and provide
a degree of comfort for patients during the course of illness. Alcohol was
the rational drug of choice because it was relatively cheap, widely available and came in a variety of different forms that suited the needs of a
wide range of patients.
ALCOHOL USE IN HOSPITALS AND ASYLUMS
The value of alcohol was evident in hospital records which show that various types of alcoholic drinks were used in the treatment of patients suffering from a range of psychological and physiological conditions. The
records of four Glasgow hospitals show that between 1870 and 1914,
alcohol was still used in the treatment of patients. During this period,
Glasgow was one of the largest industrial cities in Britain and rapid population growth meant increasing problems associated with ill health and
disease.20 The city therefore makes a good case study for the therapeutic
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T. HANDS
Graph 9.1 Glasgow royal Infirmary alcohol expenditure from 1871 to 1914.
The dates shown are those in which expenditure on alcohol was listed in the
annual reports21
use of alcohol in the treatment of illness. The records of Glasgow royal
Infirmary; Gartnavel royal Lunatic Asylum; The Western Infirmary
and Hawkhead Asylum show increasing numbers of admissions in the
late Victorian and Edwardian periods. Hospital expenditure on alcohol
sometimes correlated with the number of admissions either increasing or
decreasing according to the numbers of patients admitted and treated.
Yet as the graphs show, between 1875 and 1914 there was a general
trend towards growing numbers of admissions and decreasing expenditure on alcohol (Graph 9.1).
The graph shows that until 1895 alcohol use fluctuated. In 1891
there was a sharp increase in expenditure on alcohol but it is unclear
from the records why more was spent in that year. It could be that particular types of admissions required treatment with alcohol. According to
the 1891 records of the registrar General for Scotland the highest numbers of deaths in Glasgow in that year were from bronchitis and pneumonia, which were predominantly secondary infections. The highest
numbers of deaths from contagious diseases in 1891 related to measles,
whooping cough and phthisis (tuberculosis).22 It may be that these types
of illnesses required therapeutic treatment with alcoholic stimulants. The
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DOCTOr’S OrDErS: A PrESCrIPTION TO DrINK
103
Graph 9.2 Gartnavel royal Asylum alcohol expenditure from 1875 to 1885.
The dates shown are those in which alcohol expenditure was listed in the annual
reports23
graph shows that by 1914, despite a large amount of civilian and military
admissions, the use of alcohol had declined. The wartime restrictions on
alcohol may account in part for this decrease (Graph 9.2).
The graph shows fluctuating levels of expenditure on alcohol until
1879 when there was a marked trend towards higher admissions and less
spent on alcohol. There is no evidence in the annual reports of decisions
taken to restrict the medicinal use of alcohol but the increased numbers
of admissions in 1885 coupled with the decreased expenditure on alcohol suggest a shift in hospital policy (Graph 9.3).
The data from the Western Infirmary shows a negative correlation
between increasing numbers of admissions from 1895 onwards and
decreasing expenditure on alcohol. By 1905, alcohol expenditure had
fallen significantly despite a sharp increase in admissions in the same year.
This is a similar pattern to that found in Glasgow royal Infirmary and
may be indicative of the financial constraints posed by larger numbers
of admissions. This contrasts with the data shown below from a smaller
institution, Hawkhead asylum where expenditure on alcohol remained
fairly consistent until 1912 when it began to decline (Graph 9.4).
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T. HANDS
Graph 9.3 Western Infirmary alcohol expenditure from 1880 to 1905. The
dates were selected at five-year intervals24
Graph 9.4 Alcohol expenditure in Hawkhead Asylum 1907–1913. The
dates shown are those in which expenditure on alcohol was listed in the annual
reports25
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DOCTOr’S OrDErS: A PrESCrIPTION TO DrINK
105
The data from the Glasgow hospitals suggests that overall expenditure
on alcohol varied across different types of institutions and changed over
time. It also shows a general trend towards restricting expenditure on
alcohol. It is however difficult to ascertain exactly how the alcohol purchased was used in the treatment of patients and why this changed over
time. In each of the institutions, the ward casebooks and patient notes
lacked detailed information on treatment regimes and more specifically,
on any alcohol prescribed. There was a case in Gartnavel royal Asylum
of a male patient admitted in 1888 suffering from ‘low mood’ exacerbated by bronchitis, who was prescribed 4 grams of whisky daily plus an
expectorant mixture.26 In the annual report for 1871, the medical superintendent of Gartnavel discussed the use of alcohol and stated that
There are a number of weak, helpless bed-rid patients, especially in the
East House, suffering from various diseases of long standing, many of
whom were organically affected on admission … While all the patients
require to be well nourished and supported and are so, these patients,
in consequence of their greater want of vitality, often require food to be
expressly prepared for them and with stimulants to be administered both
night and day with a large amount of kind and considerate treatment.27
It would therefore appear that alcohol played an important role in the
treatment of chronic diseases and palliative care. In another Scottish asylum, The Chrichton royal, alcohol was sometimes used in the treatment
of private patients—even those with existing alcohol problems. One
patient admitted in 1886 suffering from eccentric and delusional behaviour was allowed generous amounts of alcohol. His case notes stated that
Mr H has resided at Kirkmichael House all winter and has had shooting all
the season. He has been fairly contented as long as he had unlimited meal
and drink. His appetite was enormous and at a meal he has been known
to eat a leg of mutton with the usual accessories…and finish off with half
a dozen eggs…he has been allowed three glasses of whisky daily and as
much beer as he chose to drink. He usually took the whisky undiluted.28
This case highlights the differences in treatment with alcohol among private and pauper patients. Even if viewed as a necessary therapeutic agent,
alcohol was an additional expense in the course of treatment and perhaps
one that hospitals with larger numbers of pauper patients could ill afford.
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T. HANDS
In addition to the asylums, alcohol was also used in the treatment of
infectious diseases in Belvedere (fever) Hospital in Glasgow. In the 1866
annual report the medical superintendent of Belvedere noted that during the typhus epidemic of 1861 and 1862, the hospital admitted 1837
patients and of these, 1289 were typhus cases.29 The alcohol consumed
during this period was: 62,754 ounces of wine, 8440 ounces of whisky
and 2611 ounces of brandy.30 The Medical Superintendent, Dr russell
believed that it was important to weigh up the therapeutic benefits of
‘alcoholic stimulation’ with the economic considerations. He stated that
during the typhus epidemic, Belvedere Hospital and Glasgow royal
Infirmary had admitted similar numbers of typhus cases and that both
hospitals had used alcohol in the treatment of patients. Yet Belvedere had
successfully treated patients with a more judicious use of alcoholic stimulants than the royal Infirmary. In fact, Dr russell claimed that there
were fewer deaths from typhus in Belvedere than in the royal Infirmary
and that the average length of stay was considerably less in the former.31
The use of alcohol in treating fevers and other illnesses was reported
in medical journals. Aside from the financial implications of alcohol
use, some doctors believed that it only held therapeutic value in certain cases and in particular stages of illness and disease. In an article in
the British Medical Journal in 1880, Dr H. McNaughton a physician in
The fever Hospital Cork, provided evidence to support his claim that
alcohol should be prescribed carefully in fever cases.32 He kept records
of his patients from January 1873 to June 1879, a period in which he
treated 889 fever cases mainly typhus, typhoid and simple fever. On average 30% of patients were treated with alcohol during this period.33 Most
fever cases were treated using brandy, claret and wine. He provided a
patient case study of a girl he described as being one of the worst cases of
typhoid fever he had ever treated. In the early stages of her illness he prescribed no alcohol but instead treated her using milk, beef extract, foulbroth, digitalis, ipecacuanha (an expectorant sometimes used to treat
dysentery), Dover’s Powders, quinine and opium. In the later stages of
illness, he prescribed a mixture of brandy and milk every four hours and
one ounce of claret every two hours. The girl recovered completely.34
The type of alcohol used in the treatment of illness and disease varied. This was reflected in the Glasgow hospital data. The most popular
types of alcohol purchased during the 1870–1914 period were wines
and champagne, brandy, whisky, porter and beer. Most hospitals held
9
Graph 9.5 Types
1871–189135
of
DOCTOr’S OrDErS: A PrESCrIPTION TO DrINK
alcohol
purchased
by
Glasgow
royal
107
Infirmary
accounts with local wine and spirit merchants and the royal Infirmary
bought alcohol from two Glasgow firms: Samuel Dow and Thomas
Anderson. The quantities and types of drinks purchased changed from
year to year, sometimes reflecting the numbers of patients treated but at
other times it seemed that certain drinks became more popular or fell
out of use. Graph 9.5 shows the changing types and quantities of alcohol
purchased by Glasgow royal Infirmary over a 30-year period.
Certain types of drinks like porter and port wine remained popular over the 30-year period. Sherry fell out of use but champagne and
claret were in more demand towards the end of the century. Coleman’s
Wincarnis Tonic Wine was purchased for the first time in 1891 with a
sizeable order totalling £61 3s 12d, which in today’s money equates to
an annual spend of around £3665 on tonic wine.36 The data from the
Glasgow hospitals suggests that between 1870 and 1914, the types of
alcohol purchased by hospitals changed, and that although there was an
overall trend towards spending less on alcohol, its usage continued.
As many doctors still prescribed alcohol, it fell to the medical profession to investigate its role in the treatment of illness and disease.
108
T. HANDS
Between 1880 and 1914 there were articles in The British Medical
Journal and The Lancet that investigated the use of alcohol in medical
practice. Some of these articles provided chemical analyses of various
alcoholic drinks because it was considered important that doctors were
informed of the best types and quality of wines and spirits to prescribe
to patients. following the reduction in duties on imported wines from
france, two articles appeared in The Lancet in June and July 1880. The
articles were titled ‘The Lancet Commission on the Medical Use of
Wines’ and each instalment dealt with different varieties of french wines.
The first article in June 1880 stated
We cannot believe that any wines whatever are necessary for a healthy adult
in good physical strength, taking a fair amount of daily exercise and with no
excessive mental strain. Most light wines taken sparingly with meals do no
harm to a person under the same conditions and are quite as consistent as
the consumption of tea, coffee etc. which generally take their place. Indeed,
strong tea, strong coffee and (we would add strong tobacco) have much
to answer for in the production of indigestion and nervous palpitation …
To the invalid, the wines are frequently of great value and in some of the
acute fevers the most powerful alcoholic beverages have sometimes to be
prescribed … [However] the patient’s daily question “what shall I drink?”
requires more consideration than is usually devoted to it before the medical
advisor gives the stereotyped reply “Oh you can take a little claret”.37
Both articles aimed to educate doctors on the composition and therapeutic value of various types of french wines. This was achieved by providing chemical analyses of the four basic constituents of wines, namely
alcohol, sugar, acid and tannin. The articles claimed that differing levels
of each of these constituents not only altered the taste and quality of the
wine but also its therapeutic value.38 In the case of claret it was noted
that there were huge differences in the quality and chemical composition
of this particular type of wine but it was still believed to have medicinal
applications
In cases of anaemia, ordinary debility from overwork, feeble digestion etc.,
a sound red claret is almost as good a prescription as most of the tonic
drugs in the Pharmacopeia and is always an advantageous adjunct to this
class of remedies. Of course, it must only be taken with the meals and in
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109
no case should more than half a bottle be permitted with the meal. In this
quantity, the amount of alcohol is very small.39
Although the articles aimed to give a scientific analysis of the therapeutic value of wine, each instalment also provided information on sourcing
the best vintages and brands. for example, an analysis of white Bordeaux
wines used ‘an excellent Sauterne 1870 from The Cafe royale’ to highlight the therapeutic qualities of that particular type of wine.40 Another
article in The Lancet in 1894 looked at the medical value of ‘tonic’ champagnes such as Laurent-Perrier Grand Vin Brut Champagne Sans Sucre
and Coca Tonic Champagne Sans Sucre which were recommended for use
in treating diabetic patients. Chemical analyses of both drinks concluded
that they were palatable and of a similar quality to other ‘high class’ champagnes.41 Although there was no medical consensus on the therapeutic
value of alcohol as a generic drug there did seem to be some agreement
that if alcohol were to be used, it should be of the best quality and type.
This is hardly surprising, given that most doctors were middle-class men
and many of their fee-paying patients were also middle and upper class.
The range of illnesses that were financially treatable with a ‘sound claret’,
coca champagne or a good quality brandy were therefore likely to be middle or upper-class illnesses such as fatigue, neurasthenia, exhaustion from
overwork and digestive complaints. In this sense, doctors were only prescribing the types of alcoholic drinks that their patients would normally
drink anyway, so in effect it was a prescription to drink well.
The financial aspect of prescribing alcohol was perhaps more of a concern for public hospitals and asylums that had to justify expenditure on
the poorer working classes. The Glasgow hospital and asylum records
show a general decrease in spending on alcohol during a period when it’s
continued use within medicine courted controversy. Although some doctors wanted to distance the profession from the moral taint of intemperance, many were prepared to carry on prescribing alcohol because they
had faith in its therapeutic value. One important point to consider is that
alcohol was still being bought and used within hospitals and this suggests
a lack of viable alternatives at that time. In other words, doctors simply
had no other choice but to prescribe alcohol and perhaps the real pressure
was to do so judiciously. This could certainly account for the decrease in
the use of alcohol in the decades leading up to the first World War.
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NOTES
1. Boothroyde J. S. ‘Medicated Wines and Alcohol Addiction’: British
Journal of Inebriety: Volume 7:3: 3 January 1910: p. 146.
2. Ibid.
3. Curth L. H. 2003. ‘The Medicinal Value of Wine in Early Modern
England’: Social History of Alcohol and Drugs: Volume 18.
4. ‘The Call to Drink’: British Journal of Inebriety: Volume 5:1: July 1907.
5. Ibid.
6. Barr J. ‘Alcohol as a Therapeutic Agent’: British Medical Journal: 1 July
1905.
7. Ibid.
8. Ibid.
9. Kerr N. ‘Ought We to Prescribe Alcohol and How?’: The British Medical
Journal: 5 September 1885.
10. Macfie C. ‘On the Duty of the Profession with regard to Alcohol’: The
British Medical Journal: 22 September 1899.
11. Ibid.
12. ‘Alcohol in Workhouses and General Infirmaries’: The British Medical
Journal: 24 May 1890.
13. Macfie C. ‘On the Duty of the Profession with regard to Alcohol’: The
British Medical Journal: 22 September 1899.
14. Ibid.
15. MacDonald J. ‘An Address on the remedial Use of Alcohol’: The British
Medical Journal: 30 July 1909.
16. Ibid.
17. Ibid.
18. Ibid.
19. Ibid.
20. Cage r. A. 1987. ‘Health in Glasgow’, in (ed.) Cage r. A. The Working
Class in Glasgow 1750–1914: Kent: Croom Helm: pp. 56–77.
21. NHS Archives (NHS): HB142/8: Glasgow royal Infirmary Annual
reports: 1871–1914.
22. Thirty-Seventh Annual report of the registrar General for Scotland:
http://www.histpop.org/ohpr/servlet/PageBrowser?path=Browse/
registrar%20General%20%28by%20date%29&active= yes&mno=660&tocstate=expandnew&display=sections&display=tables&display=pagetitles&pageseq=38&zoom=5: accessed 1/2/2016.
23. NHS: HB13/51-80: Gartnavel royal Asylum Annual reports:
1875–1885.
24. NHS: HB6/3/2: Western Infirmary Annual reports: 1880–1905.
25. NHS: HB24/3/2: Hawkhead Asylum Annual reports: 1907–1913.
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DOCTOr’S OrDErS: A PrESCrIPTION TO DrINK
111
26. NHS: HB13/5/125: Gartnavel royal Asylum: Patient Case Notes: James
Mackay: January 1888.
27. NHS: HB/3: Gartnavel royal Asylum Annual report: 1871.
28. Chrichton royal Infirmary Archives: CrI 1989.139: Case of Thomas
Hoare admitted August 1886, single gentleman, age unknown.
29. NHS: HB65/11: Annual report of Belvedere Hospital: Medical
Superintendent’s report: 1866.
30. Ibid.
31. NHS: HB65/11: Annual report of Belvedere Hospital: Medical
Superintendents report: 1866.
32. ‘Alcohol in fever’: The British Medical Journal: Volume 1:8 May 1880:
p. 687.
33. Ibid.
34. Ibid.
35. NHS: HB14/2/8: Glasgow royal Infirmary Annual reports:
1871–1891.
36. Calculated Using The National Archives Currency Converter: http://www.
nationalarchives.gov.uk/currency/results.asp#mid: accessed 12/12/2015.
37. ‘The Lancet Commission on the Medical Use of Wines’: The Lancet:
26 June 1880.
38. Ibid.
39. ‘The Lancet Commission on the Medical Use of Wines’: The Lancet:
24 July 1880.
40. Ibid.
41. ‘Analytical records form the Lancet Laboratory’: The Lancet:
13 January 1894.
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Open Access This chapter is licensed under the terms of the Creative Commons
Attribution 4.0 International License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/
by/4.0/), which permits use, sharing, adaptation, distribution and reproduction
in any medium or format, as long as you give appropriate credit to the original
author(s) and the source, provide a link to the Creative Commons license and
indicate if changes were made.
The images or other third party material in this chapter are included in the
chapter’s Creative Commons license, unless indicated otherwise in a credit line
to the material. If material is not included in the chapter’s Creative Commons
license and your intended use is not permitted by statutory regulation or exceeds
the permitted use, you will need to obtain permission directly from the copyright
holder.
CHAPTEr 10
Drinking for Health:
Proprietary Tonic Wines
To the medically uneducated public [meat and malt wines] undoubtedly
seem a most promising combination: extract of meat for food, extract of
malt to aid digestion, port wine to make blood - surely the very thing to
strengthen all who are weak and to hasten the restoration of convalescents.
Unfortunately, what the advertisements say – that this stuff is largely prescribed by medical men – is not wholly true.1
In an article in The British Medical Journal in 1898, Dr f. C. Coley
argued that doctors should warn patients and the general population
to be wary when buying meat and malt wines. The problem with tonic
wines was that they made bold therapeutic claims about the healthgiving properties of alcohol based on flimsy medical evidence. Although
the therapeutic use of alcohol was generally supported and propagated
by doctors who wrote prescriptions for alcohol, it was important that
its therapeutic use remains within the boundaries of medical control
and not be thrown open to ‘the medically uneducated public.’ In other
words, alcohol still had a place in medicine but the general public could
not be trusted to use it wisely or responsibly. Yet despite the reservations
of the medical profession, tonic wines were a commercial success and the
idea of drinking for health was popular among alcohol consumers.
foley’s argument highlights one of the main concerns about the marketing of tonic wines expressed by the 1914 Commission on Patent
Medicines, which investigated the supposed endorsement of these
© The Author(s) 2018
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https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-92964-4_10
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products by the medical profession. The committee was acting upon ethical and moral concerns about the promotion of alcohol consumption
for medical reasons. Dr Mary Sturge was called as an expert witness with
professional experience on the effects of medicated wines. She was asked
her opinion on why people buy tonic wine
I think one of the answers is that the advertisements are most extremely
attractive and alluring. I have brought a group of advertisements here …
One advertisement states that ‘Wincarnis is a natural nerve and brain food’
… I do not consider that anything which contains twenty percent of alcohol, which is a nerve depressant and a nerve irritant, has any claim to be
called a brain food. Then there is the advertisement: ‘Nurse? One moment
please. Wincarnis gives a strength that is lasting because in each wineglassful of Wincarnis there is a standardized amount of nutriment.’ That is calculated to make people think that it is really a nutritious mixture and when
it comes to the analysis, we find that the little amount of meat extract is
nothing approaching the amount of an ordinary cup of beef tea. My point
is the misleading influence of the advertisements.2
Dr Sturge believed that the general public was duped into buying and
consuming tonic wine because they were either unaware of the alcohol
content or believed that alcohol acted as a medium for the delivery of
medicinal agents in the drink. There was no legal compulsion for manufacturers to disclose the alcohol content or ingredients in tonic wine on
product labelling or advertising and these products fell into the category
of ‘secret remedies’, which the committee defined as proprietary medicines where the labelling contained very little information on the contents and the product advertising made false or misleading claims. It was
known that companies like Coleman and Hall made huge profits from
the sale of their tonic wines and the issue that the committee had to consider was whether the public would continue to buy these products if
they displayed accurate information on the alcohol content and added
ingredients. The manufacturers claimed that by disclosing this information, their products would face increased competition, which would
in turn harm their businesses. The key question for the committee was
whether product labelling was in the best interests of consumers and
this rested on establishing the reasons why people bought tonic wines
in the first place. Dr Sturge shared the opinion that the general public
viewed these products as medicines rather than alcoholic drinks. She
also believed that some people simply did not care to know the alcohol
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115
content or believed that the alcohol content was minimal. She gave the
example of her senior nurse
I asked my out-patient superintending nurse what she thought was in
Wincarnis and she said “I think it is a nice mixture with perhaps a little
alcohol in it.” The word win did not mean wine to her, although she is
an intelligent woman.3
The example of a senior nurse’s ignorance over the product labelling was
perhaps intended to point the finger of blame towards the manufacturer’s misleading advertising (see figs. 10.1, 10.2, 10.3, and 10.4).
The committee heard evidence from Mr William rudderham, who
was the general manager of Coleman & Co. Ltd., the manufacturer of
Wincarnis. The company spent £50,000 annually on advertising the
product and rudderham admitted that the success of Wincarnis was
largely due to the ambitious marketing campaign.4 Coleman’s advertised
the product in many of the London newspapers such as The Times, The
Star, The Illustrated London News and The Penny Illustrated Paper. The
adverts shown are typical examples of those that appeared in national
and regional newspapers in England and Scotland. These adverts were
themed around the medical uses of Wincarnis as an alleged treatment
or cure for a range of physiological and psychological illnesses such as
fatigue, brain exhaustion, worry, nervousness, influenza and pneumonia.
All of the adverts shown were reliant upon two main strategies to sell
the product: one was the use of testimonials from customers and from
doctors and the other was the offer of a free sample for the price of a
stamp—also known as the coupon system.
figure 10.1 is typical of adverts that played on concepts of class and
gender roles. In the advert, a man is pictured sitting working at his desk
while a woman (presumably his wife) brings him a glass of Wincarnis
‘by doctor’s orders.’ The caption claimed that: ‘a man who spends his
energies recklessly will quickly overdraw his account at the Bank of
Health. A man as he manages himself may die old at thirty or young at
eighty; brain fag is the foster parent of disease.’ In other words, overwork meant an early demise for professional middle-class men and an
early widowhood for their wives, unless it was kept in check by a glass
or two of Wincarnis. The medical claims of Wincarnis are more obvious
in fig. 10.2, which shows a nurse holding a tray containing an overly
large bottle of the product beneath the caption ‘The famous winter
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T. HANDS
Fig. 10.1 Wincarnis advertisement in The Penny Illustrated Paper, London,
1905
wine tonic.’ This advert ran in March, perhaps to target people suffering
from winter respiratory infections. It claimed that Wincarnis could not
only treat winter illnesses but could also be used to prevent them. The
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117
Fig. 10.2 Wincarnis advertisement, Illustrated London News, March 1909
medicinal qualities of Wincarnis were further supported by claims that
it was used in nursing homes, hospitals and by the royal Army Medical
Corps. This apparent of the product by the medical profession was one
of the advertising claims that the committee took issue with. On some
Wincarnis labelling it was stated that the product was ‘recommended by
10,000 medical men.’ When asked by the committee if this claim was
based on fact, rudderham replied that the company had letters from
doctors requesting free samples and that these counted as endorsements
of the product. In fact, the ‘recommendations’ of 10,000 medical men
were the return coupons for free samples.
Coleman was not the only company using this marketing technique.
The committee also heard evidence from Mr Henry James Hall, managing director of Stephen Smith & Co., producers of Hall’s Tonic Wine,
which differed from Wincarnis in that it contained quantities of coca
extract, which was essentially cocaine. Both products were marketed in
a similar way, as medicinal wines recommended by the medical profession. Hall stated that: ‘Apart from our advertising, the sale of Hall’s wine
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Fig. 10.3 Wincarnis advertisement, The Penny Illustrated Paper, London, 1911
is largely influenced by the recommendations of doctors.’5 To support
his statement, he produced letters from doctors and gave these to the
committee as proof that doctors who had tried his product had voluntarily given the recommendations. On examining the letters, the committee found that some simply thanked the company for the receipt of free
samples. Hall was asked if any of the letters came from doctors who had
associations with the company because it was known that a large number
of doctors held shares in Stephen Smith & Co. and two doctors were
members of the board of directors. Hall dodged this question by reiterating that he had letters from doctors who were not associated with
the company. Medical endorsement was the main line of defence used by
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DrINKING fOr HEALTH: PrOPrIETArY TONIC WINES
119
Fig. 10.4 Advertisement for Wincarnis, The Penny Illustrated Paper, 1906
both Hall and rudderham to counter the committee’s accusations that
they were in fact knowingly selling alcohol under the guise of a medicine
and worse still, that their products were recommended for use by women
and children. Some of the Wincarnis advertising did specifically target
women, mainly for obstetric and gynaecological complaints but also for
psychological problems. for example, an advert for ‘Coleman’s Delicious
Wincarnis’ that appeared in the Penny Illustrated Paper in May 1908
stated: ‘for the housewife: When mother’s patience is taxed to the uttermost by domestic worries and she is almost ready to faint, Wincarnis is
comforting and sustaining.’6 When asked if he considered it to be morally questionable and physically harmful to encourage women and children to drink alcohol, Hall stated that
This (his product) is recommended as a tonic and a restorative and when it
has effected its purpose, these people do not continue to take it. They are
not going to give three shillings and sixpence for a bottle of wine which
does not do them any good. I say that in the case of these people who
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T. HANDS
require the wine, who have been recommended to take the wine by medical men or have been directed to take it by our advertisements, after it
does what we state, they leave off taking it.7
When questioning both Hall and rudderham, the committee referred
to analyses of their products, which appeared in articles in The British
Medical Journal in March and May 1909. The articles published the
results of chemical tests carried out on some of the most popular brands
of proprietary tonic wines, as shown in fig. 10.5.
Although not pitched as exposés, the articles revealed that most
brands of tonic wines contained high levels of alcohol and very little
else. rudderham was asked if he believed that people, and particularly
women, bought Wincarnis in the belief that it was a medicine that did
not contain any alcohol. rudderham replied that it clearly stated on the
bottle that it was a wine and that ‘three small wineglassfuls should be
taken daily’ and therefore he found it hard to believe that there could
Fig. 10.5 Chemical analysis of tonic wines: The British Medical Journal, March
19098
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be any confusion over the alcohol content of the product. However,
Dr Sturge provided statements from doctors and temperance groups
which suggested that people were buying and consuming tonic wine in
the belief that it was non-alcoholic. In one case, a women’s temperance
group known as The White ribboners, complained that ‘many’ of their
members had drank tonic wine but were entirely oblivious to the alcohol content. In another case, a doctor from Leeds reported that one of
his female patients began drinking Wincarnis when she was ‘run down’
after her second pregnancy. The woman continued to drink it in increasingly large amounts before moving on to drink spirits instead. At which
point she reportedly became ‘hopelessly insane.’9 Dr Sturge argued that
women drank medicated wine on a daily basis because they believed that
the products provided strength and nourishment during and after pregnancy and childbirth. She essentially implied that women would only
drink for health reasons and not for the purposes of pleasure or intoxication. Another witness, Mr John Charles Umney, managing director
of the firm that produced Marza Tonic Wine, made the point that the
word ‘wine’ in tonic wine indicated an alcohol content. Moreover, anyone who drank tonic wine would know that it produced a physiological
effect. In other words, they would feel slightly drunk.
The issue of intoxication was central to the committee’s deliberations
on the labelling and advertising of tonic wines. Despite evidence to the
contrary, it must have seemed unlikely that men and women who purchased bottles of Hall’s Tonic Wine or Wincarnis were completely unaware of any alcohol content. It may have seemed more likely that people
did not know of the relatively high alcohol content or the very small
amounts of ‘medicinal’ ingredients contained in the drinks. Depending
on the reasons for drinking, intoxication was either the intended primary
effect or simply a side effect of the drink. In any case, the commercial
success of tonic wine was unlikely to have been based on the belief that
it was a non-alcoholic medicine. Most people would have known it was
wine and because it was sold as a medicinal drink, people could consume
alcohol for health reasons. In the case of women of all social classes,
tonic wine provided a socially acceptable way to purchase and consume
alcohol in private, for their own purposes and beyond the male gaze. for
middle-class men and women, tonic wine perhaps offered an intoxicating
relief from the pressures of work or domesticity. In this sense, Wincarnis
and other tonic wines created a viable means of intoxication by promoting the idea of drinking for health reasons.
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Tonic wine also provided a means of self-medication for people who
could not afford to see a doctor or would not see a doctor for trivial
ailments. In the last half of the nineteenth century, people were bombarded with adverts for various brands of tonic wines. An Internet search
of the British Newspaper Archive for ‘tonic wine’ generated the highest number of results in the period from 1850 to 1899.10 Most of these
results were for advertisements that appeared in national and regional
newspapers across Britain. Alcohol producers, wine and spirit merchants,
licensed grocers and chemists were most likely to place adverts. for
example, there was an advert in The Burnley Express in february 1892
for ‘Wilkinson’s Orange Quinine Tonic Wine’, which was described as
‘pure genuine wine of the Seville orange’ and was recommended for
use in treating influenza, debility and loss of appetite. The wine was
sold in all Co-operative stores in Burnley ‘at very low prices’.11 Quinine
was a popular additive to tonic wine, not only because of its supposed
health-giving qualities but also because of its flavour, which was often
described as pleasantly bitter or refreshing. Another advertisement
for quinine wine appeared in The Pall Mall Gazette in July 1899. The
advert was for ‘Quinquina Dubonnet’ which was described as an ‘appetizing, stimulating and strengthening tonic wine of the most delicious
flavour made solely from Old Muscat wine and Mexican Quinquina.’12
Dubonnet Tonic Wine was developed by a french chemist during
the french conquest of North Africa in the 1830s. It was designed to
encourage the legionnaires to take quinine in a palatable form in order
to combat malaria.13 Another popular ingredient in tonic wine was coca
extract, which was sometimes coupled with quinine. An advert for ‘Coca
and Cinchona (quinine) Wine’ appeared in The Bath Chronicle in January
1889. The wine was intended for use in treating cases of neuralgia and
was available from a local chemist in Bath.14 Chemists often advertised
various brands of tonic wines. One advert that appeared in The Arbroath
Herald in June 1898 promoted the sale of ‘wines for invalids’ and listed
various brands of meat and malt wines, invalid port and coca wine.15
Some of the most widely advertised tonic wines were Hall’s Tonic Wine
and Mariani Wine. The adverts provide examples (figs. 10.6 and 10.7).
There was profit in selling alcohol as a tonic and companies such
as Hall were not the only ones to use this tactic. In the late Victorian
period, W & A Gilbey, one of the leading wine and spirit merchants
in Britain, stated in its 1897 company report that inserting the word
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Fig. 10.6 Advert for hall’s wine: The Graphic: 6 January 1900
123
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Fig. 10.7 Advert for hall’s wine: The Graphic: 2 September 1899
‘invalid’ onto the labelling of various ports, wines and champagnes, had
greatly increased sales of these products.16 Gilbey had used this marketing strategy for a number of years and the 1885 price list included a large
section on ‘special wines for the use of invalids’ which contained invalid
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125
champagnes, meat and malt tonic port, quinine sherry, coca wines and
invalid port—all sold under the company Castle brand name. One advert
for Castle Invalid Port contained an extract from an 1885 article in The
Times which claimed
Dr Hood says: “there is no more wholesome wine than genuine port when
it is well matured. Two or three glasses daily of such wine will act as a
grateful stimulant to the stomach and will assist digestion. Dr. Mortimer
Granville states: “stimulants are almost always, I believe, necessary in cases
of gout tendency and during the intervals of these attacks. I impose no
restrictions except that all alcoholic beverages shall be taken with food and
that new or imperfectly fermented wines shall be avoided.17
An 1892 sales report stated that in a recent influenza epidemic, more
than 200,000 bottles of invalid wines and champagnes had been sold.
This gives some sense of the popularity and reliance upon alcoholic substances as medicinal tonics. Doctors still prescribed alcohol as a medicine and consumers also used it as a means of self-medication. It is hardly
surprising that the drink trade capitalised on this and marketed products
accordingly. As a tonic, alcohol could be drunk moderately and respectably to alleviate a myriad of psychological and physiological problems.
This was an attractive idea—particularly for certain groups of consumers who could not otherwise drink without incurring social and moral
disapproval. Yet the idea that alcohol was a tonic divided the opinions
of the medical profession, and the claim that Wincarnis was endorsed by
‘thousands of medical men’ was based on very thin evidence. The company could, however, have legitimately claimed that the medical profession still relied upon wine in the treatment of disease and illness. The
use of alcohol in medicine not only held commercial value but it also
shaped public opinion on the substance and thus partly influenced consumer choices. from a consumers’ perspective—if doctors were prescribing alcohol and companies were selling it as a preventative and cure-all
for virtually all forms of ill health, then it must have been very tempting
to turn to alcohol for comfort and relief. The tonic wine boom is perhaps proof of that.
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NOTES
1. Dr f. C. foley: ‘Medicated Wines’: The British Medical Journal: Volume
2:715: 10 September 1898.
2. House of Commons Parliamentary Papers (HCPP). 1914: 414: report of
the Select Committee on Patent Medicines: Evidence of Dr Mary Sturge.
3. HCPP. 1914: 414: report of the Select Committee on Patent Medicines:
Evidence of Dr Mary Sturge.
4. HCPP. 1914: 414: report of the Select Committee on Patent Medicines:
Evidence of Mr William rudderham.
5. HCPP. 1914: 414: report of the Select Committee on Patent Medicines:
Evidence of Mr Henry James Hall.
6. ‘Coleman’s Delicious Wincarnis’: Penny Illustrated Paper: London:
23 May 1909.
7. HCPP. 1914: 414: report of the Select Committee on Patent Medicines:
Evidence of Mr Henry James Hall.
8. ‘The Composition of Some Proprietary Dietetic Preparations’: The British
Medical Journal: Volume 1:795: 27 May 1909.
9. HCPP. 1914: 414: report of the Select Committee on Patent Medicines:
Evidence of Dr Mary Sturge.
10. The British Newspaper Archive: http://www.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk: accessed 1/3/2016: The search results were: 1800–
1849 = 12,661; 1850–1899 = 274, 952; 1900–1949 = 58.
11. The British Newspaper Archive: The Burnley Express: 10 february 1892.
12. The British Newspaper Archive: The Pall Mall Gazette: 7 July 1899.
13. ‘Who Still Drinks Dubonnet?’: http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/8159201.
stm: accessed 1/3/2016.
14. The British Newspaper Archive: The Bath Chronicle: 24 January 1889.
15. The British Newspaper Archive.
16. Diageo Archives: 100433/1: W & A Gilbey Committee Minutes: 1897.
17. Diageo Archives: 100422/190: Gilbey Price List: 1870.
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Open Access This chapter is licensed under the terms of the Creative Commons
Attribution 4.0 International License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/
by/4.0/), which permits use, sharing, adaptation, distribution and reproduction
in any medium or format, as long as you give appropriate credit to the original
author(s) and the source, provide a link to the Creative Commons license and
indicate if changes were made.
The images or other third party material in this chapter are included in the
chapter’s Creative Commons license, unless indicated otherwise in a credit line
to the material. If material is not included in the chapter’s Creative Commons
license and your intended use is not permitted by statutory regulation or exceeds
the permitted use, you will need to obtain permission directly from the copyright
holder.
CHAPTEr 11
Neither Carnival nor Lent:
Everyday Working Class Drinking
The true role of drinking in Edwardian Britain was much more humdrum.
Beer was the basis of leisure. It took the place which later became filled
with cigarettes and television. Children would fetch jugs from the pubs for
tired parents to relax at home at the end of the day. At funerals, at weddings, at harvest, at the initiation of apprentices, at ordinary work breaks, a
glass of beer would be exchanged.1
for most of the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, moral and
political concerns about alcohol consumption rested on the types of
working-class drinking behaviour constantly on show in pubs and on
the streets. Yet as the quote above suggests, there was another side
to working-class drinking where alcohol formed an ordinary part of
everyday life. The quote is from Paul Thompson, a sociologist who conducted an oral history study of Edwardian family life.2 By stepping into
the private world of the family, Thompson’s study revealed a culture of
‘everyday’ drinking among ordinary people. Accounts of excessive drinking were widely documented in the press and in official reports, yet the
more humdrum, routine and private drinking habits that existed across
the social spectrum largely escaped public scrutiny.
The chapter draws upon an analysis of oral history transcripts which
offer glimpses of the ways in which working-class men and women consumed alcohol and their reasons for doing so. This is not a ‘top down’
vision of working-class drinking skewed by political motives or temperance ideology. Instead, it offers first-hand accounts of drinking
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based upon the experiences and memories of surviving Victorians and
Edwardians. Many contemporaries (and some historians) looked no further than the publicly drunken aspects of Victorian working-class drinking culture that seemed to be evident on city streets or in pubs, theatres
and dance halls. Joseph Gusfield argues that this type of ‘carnival and
lent’ analysis of working-class drinking can be traced to the process of
industrialisation and the consequent separation between daily work and
leisure.3 As alcohol consumption was less acceptable in the workplace,
it became a marker of leisure time—a symbol of free time spent away
from work. The drinking culture of the working classes was viewed as
‘carnivalesque’ precisely because it ran counter to the sobriety, efficiency and self-control demanded by industrial capitalism. Yet for many
working-class families, free time was spent at home, where alcohol
formed an integral part of the daily routine that signalled the end of the
working day.
Leisure time was one of the many aspects explored in Thompson’s
study of Edwardian work and family life. The research was conducted in
the 1970s when it was still possible to interview surviving Victorians and
Edwardians in Britain. The study comprised 444 interviews with men
and women all born between 1872 and 1906.4 Thompson endeavoured
to provide a representative sample of the Edwardian population based
upon the 1911 census. The interviewees consisted of men and women
from all social classes and occupational groups who were living in urban
and rural regions of England, Scotland and Wales. The interview schedule consisted of a list of questions that included the roles and work of
family members, for example cooking, dining, domestic routines and
family values. The interviews were open-ended and some of the questions concerned alcohol consumption. The main questions relating to
alcohol were
1. Did your mother or father brew their own beer or make wine? (this
question was only directed at working-class interviewees).
2. Did your mother or father go to the pub? (this question was put to
all the interviewees).
The interviews lasted between one and six hours and therefore the
original transcripts are lengthy (a full extract of data from the original
transcripts can be found in the Appendix).5 The questions on alcohol
were mostly asked in a set order but a close reading of the interview
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transcripts revealed that the interviewees sometimes provided additional
anecdotal information about alcohol in other sections of the interviews.
Both working-class and middle-class people were interviewed and asked
questions that related to alcohol consumption and drinking behaviour.
The middle-class interviews will be dealt with in the next chapter which
considers the private drinking culture of the higher classes.
The Edwardians study is relevant because it goes beyond the ‘carnivalesque’ drinking culture of the streets to examine drinking in the
context of everyday family life where alcohol formed a part of the daily
routine. This offers insights into how working-class people thought
about drinking and also into the ways in which alcohol was produced
and consumed. There is rich qualitative data on attitudes towards alcohol consumption, which sometimes reflect the social and cultural values
of different groups of working-class people. Yet the use of oral history
transcripts can have potential pitfalls: These were old men and women
recollecting events from their childhoods and they may have forgotten or
exaggerated details. However, this was a large representative study that
interviewed a wide range of people and it is possible to see patterns in
the responses, which suggests some accuracy of detail. But accuracy was
not the main reason for using the oral history transcripts. The study provides a unique opportunity to ‘listen’ to what Victorians and Edwardians
had to say about alcohol consumption and to set their discussions and
views within the social and cultural context of the time. It was not
intended to use The Edwardians study to uncover any ‘truths’ about
alcohol consumption but instead to gain deeper insights into different
types of drinking.
Another relevant sociological study is The Pub and the People,
which was a Mass Observation Study conducted in ‘Worktown’ in the
1930s.6 Worktown was in fact Bolton, an industrial town in the north
of England which had a population of 180,000 people and 300 pubs.
The study was conducted over four years between 1938 and 1942 and
involved qualitative interviews, observation and the collection of data
and statistics. Although the study offers a snapshot of drinking behaviour in the interwar years, some of the interviewees had been alive in
the Victorian and Edwardian periods and therefore they brought with
them some ingrained drinking habits and attitudes towards alcohol
consumption. The interviewees shared their reasons for drinking particular types of alcohol and these reasons offer insights into the ways
in which working-class consumers justified their drinking behaviour.
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The Worktown study provides a contrast to The Edwardians study
because it focuses on the public drinking culture of the pub whereas The
Edwardians drinking is largely situated in the home. When combined,
these studies provide insights into working-class drinking within different
social, spatial and temporal contexts.
for Victorian and Edwardian working-class families, patterns of drinking largely revolved around family life and home consumption of alcohol
was as popular as visiting local pubs. Some of the interviewees recalled
the daily trip to the local pub to buy dinner beer
I remember some of the older boys going round to fetch the supper beer –
which was a pint of beer for tuppence, you see they [parents] had a glass each
out of that for their supper. But none of us were ever allowed to taste it. But
the older boys were allowed to go round with the jug in those days – there
wasn’t bottled stuff and things you see. And it was considered dreadful for
a younger person to be in a pub you see – so that it was only the older ones
who were allowed to fetch the supper beer – or perhaps my mother or father
would fetch it themselves you know.’7
Drinking beer with the evening meal seems to have been a common feature of working-class life for both men and women but it was mainly
men who went to the pub regularly in the evenings. One interviewee, a
man from Essex, was asked if his mother and father drank beer with their
evening meal. He only recalled his mother having a half pint of porter
every evening with supper and instead his father would visit the local pub
in the evenings. When asked if his mother and father ever went to the
pub together, he replied that in his town women did not enter pubs and
instead were more likely to consume alcohol at home.8
In a study of pubs in York in 1900, Seebohm rowntree observed the
gender differences of customers who frequented different pubs in the
town.9 He noted marked variations in the numbers of men and women
who went to different pubs located in working-class districts. In the
slums and in poorer working-class areas, women drinkers were a more
visible presence within pubs. Yet in more affluent working-class areas,
women still visited pubs but many went only to fetch the dinner beer.
rowntree noted that these women were ‘all respectably dressed and
of cleanly appearance’ and that within the pubs under observation ‘no
cases of extreme drunkenness occurred’.10 rowntree drew a distinction
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133
in terms of respectability between women who drank in pubs and those
who drank at home. In those terms, it was not the act of drinking alcohol that challenged feminine norms but rather the location of alcohol
consumption. This mattered less for men’s drinking behaviour which
was governed by different social rules. Working class fathers’ drinking
revolved around family life and daily routines. Drinking beer with dinner seems to have been common, as was visiting local pubs in the evenings. Interviewees from urban and rural regions of Britain recalled their
fathers’ regularly going to local pubs and working men’s clubs to socialise and to conduct business
Interviewee (JF): He’d [father] go out and have a drink because at those
times—they used to do a lot of business in the pubs, you see, he’d meet
different people in these pubs and they’d say, all right Bill, will you make
me a suit you see and he’d meet them in these places … And they’d come
into this boozer and just pay him a shilling or two shillings—whatever they
could afford [for the suit].
Interviewer: Did he stick to the same boozer?
JF: Oh no he went to several and then some evenings he went to whist
drives and they were held at these public houses you know. And he’s
probably go there perhaps one night or two nights a week.11
The Pubs and the People study focused on the pub as a social institution.
The study listed the types of activities that people (mostly men) did in
pubs. These included: drinking; smoking; playing cards; dominoes;
darts and quoits; singing and listening to the piano; betting and talking
about—sport, work, people, drinking, the weather, politics and ‘dirt’
(scandal). The pub was also a venue for a range of other activities such
as weddings and funerals, trades union meetings, secret societies, finding work, crime and prostitution, sex and gambling.12 The study found
that for most people in Bolton, ‘drink’ meant beer (usually the local beer
known as ‘mild’) and that most drinkers’ preferences were motivated by
price rather than quality, taste or fashion but again there were gender differences in consumption
Men are guided by price [of beer] first. Women, who often have men pay
for them, go more for taste and the externals. It is more ‘respectable’ for
women to drink bottled beer, mostly bottled stout or Guinness, seldom
mild.13
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T. HANDS
In order to find out the reasons why people mainly drank beer, the
researchers ran a questionnaire competition that offered financial incentives for consumer participation. The top reasons given for drinking beer
were ‘social reasons’ followed by ‘health’. The health reasons were broken down into sub-categories
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
General health-giving properties—24%
Beneficial effects connected to work—17%
Good effect on appetite—14%
Laxative effect—10%
Nourishing—6%
Tonic—8%
Valuable properties in malt and hops—6%
Vitamins—6%
Diuretic—2%
The researchers believed that many of the health reasons given by
respondents were a direct result of brewers’ advertising and marketing
tactics
Many people use the phrase ‘beer is best’. This is a clue to the large number of references to its health-giving properties; phrases like ‘it is body
building’ – ‘picks a man up’ – are a direct reflection of brewers’ advertising. In the days before mass beer propaganda people drank considerably
more than they do now. The history of the last hundred years of drinking
in England is a history of decline. These [questionnaire responses] definitely show how advertising phrases intended to keep up consumption
have become a part of pub-goers mental attitude to their beer. Beer more
than anything else has to overcome guilt feelings. That is why advertising
is simple, insistent, fond of superlatives, visual and often showing other
people drinking the stuff, radiant with good cheer or good looks.14
The researchers concluded that consumers were caught in a trap between
temperance and brewers’ propaganda, which sought to convince people
that drinking was either harmful and sinful or healthy and good. Since
the pub was such a central aspect of social life, people either consciously
or subconsciously chose to believe the brewers hype. The notion that
‘beer is best’ had become a deeply ingrained and almost unconscious justification for consuming alcohol. Some of the respondents offered their
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135
personal reasons for drinking beer. One man aged 66 gave his reasons for
drinking beer
… because it is a food, drink and medicine to me. My bowels work regular
as clockwork and I think that is the key to health. Also lightening affects
me a lot, I get such a thirst from lightening and full of pins and needles, if
I drink water from a tap its worse.15
Aside from health reasons, the study also considered why men in particular drank beer and found that many of these reasons related to concepts
of masculinity and heterosexuality. Some men stated that beer ‘put lead
in their pencil’ or alluded to their drinking habits having a positive effect
on their sex lives and even improving their marriages. When asked why
he went to the pub and drank beer, one man aged 25, described as a
‘shop assistant type’ replied ‘What else can a chap do in a one-eyed hole
like this, he’d go off his chump if there were no ale, pictures and tarts.’16
This explanation perhaps comes closest to situating beer as an escape or
a distraction from the monotony of men’s daily lives. The idea that beer
consumption somehow boosted masculinity and aided sexual function is
not something that could be directly attributed to the effects of brewers’
marketing tactics. It could have arisen from the masculine environment
of the pub and from the ways in which beer was consumed. Most working-class men drank the local draught beer (‘mild’ or ‘best’) in either
pints or gills (quarter of a pint) and this distinguished them from women
who drank stout, Guinness or bottled beers. It also made ‘mild’ a ‘man’s
drink’ that was therefore imbued with masculine qualities. Add to this
the largely male environment of the pub—particularly during weeknight
evenings when men would ‘escape’ the home for a couple of pints—and
it is hardly surprising that the consumption of beer became associated
with an idealised view of male heterosexuality. Many of the male drinkers
in the Worktown study were undoubtedly husbands who ‘went home to
the wife’ at night and therefore it still fell within the scope of ‘respectable’ drinking if beer consumption was viewed as enhancing rather than
diminishing their conjugal roles.
The masculine aspect of beer drinking is also evident in The
Edwardians study. Most interviewees stated that their fathers drank moderately—one or two pints at most, and few recalled their fathers being
drunk. Some also stated that their father would only visit local pubs at
the weekends or in the evenings when finances permitted and instead
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T. HANDS
much of their father’s drinking was confined to the home. In a study of
late Victorian working-class life, Meacham argues that working-class men
were divided between teetotallers who stayed at home in the evenings
and beer drinkers that went to the pub for a pint or two in the evening.17
Meacham also believes that working-class men preferred to spend their
leisure time in the company of other men and highlights the importance
of working men’s clubs, which grew in popularity in the late nineteenth
century as places where working men could meet, socialise and drink
There can be little doubt that a working man of moderation, who spent his
leisure hours in a well-managed and generally reputable club, was contributing not only to his personal enjoyment but to his neighbourhood image
as a respectable and responsible member of the community.18
Although this acknowledges the importance of sociable drinking within
working men’s clubs and pubs in terms of cultivating and reinforcing
ideas about masculinity the analysis misses the significance of domestic drinking where men and women drank together. Some of The
Edwardians interviewees recalled their parents drinking at home, particularly in regions where it was considered socially unacceptable for women
to drink in pubs
Interviewer (I): What about your mother, did she like a drink?
Interviewee (A): No.
I: She never went with him [father] to the pub?
A: Oh, good gracious me, not in those days!
I: respectable women didn’t?
A: No.
I: Do you think that none of your mother’s friends ever went, either, the
people she knew, they wouldn’t have gone along?
A: I think that the people my mother associated with would not have gone
to a public house.
I: If they wanted a drink anywhere, how do you think they got one?
A: We wouldn’t have gone, but father might have gone down to what is
commonly known as The rats Hole—it was known as The rats Hole
always has been—and he would have taken a jug down and brought a
jug of beer back home.
I: And they’d have a drink together?
A: Yes.19
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In some regions women were not as constrained by gender norms.
One of the interviewees recalled how her mother and other local
women met every Monday and had a drink together. The interviewee
was born in 1898 and grew up as part of a large working-class family in
London
Well on the Monday – she had a few coppers so her and a lot of women
used to go out – mother’s day they used to call Monday. And they’d dance
down in the ground in the building, you know. They’d enjoy themselves.
My mother used to play a mouth organ. And we always knew – Monday,
oh my mother’d always have a sweet for me when I came home from
school but we always knew when Monday came what to expect. No arguments – people’d be happy, all the neighbours, you know, but my mother
didn’t mix up with them a lot but it was Monday [and] they seemed to go
out and have a drink together. They’d put all their coppers together and
they’d have this drink between them and – they never used to get drunk,
never had that money. But they’d have perhaps one or two drinks, come
back and start dancing. Enjoying themselves.20
‘Mother’s day’ was a weekly gathering of local women, which involved a
trip to the pub followed by music and dancing in the streets. few of the
other interviewees talked of their mothers drinking publicly in this way.
Yet this woman made it clear that in her community, it was customary for
the local women to get together once a week and have a drink. Perhaps
in some working-class areas of London this type of celebratory drinking was considered normal for women. Yet the majority of interviews
described working-class women either drinking at home or to going to
the pub in the company of husbands or other male family members
Interviewer (I): You told me your mum and dad used to go out for a
drink?
Interviewee (LB): Oh yes. Yes. That was their treat—yes.
I: In those days were women allowed to go in pubs?
LB: Oh yes. Yes. Yes. The first place—there was—it’s a little place—I don’t
know whether it’s still there—It was called The Money up Hodge Lane
and—they used to have a sing-song of a Saturday night.
I: There was no prejudice against women going?
LB: Oh no—none at all. And—they used to have a sing-song of a Saturday
night.21
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T. HANDS
In some working-class communities, it was considered socially
acceptable for women and children to go to local pubs to obtain alcohol for home consumption. One interviewee born in Dorset in 1904
remembered her grandmother’s drinking habits and how she used to
regularly visit the local pub to get beer to take home and drink with
friends
Now my grandma – I tell you – when I was – how old was I – about
twelve or thirteen I suppose – oh she must have been – must have been
going on a long time before that, but I can particularly remember – you
know they used to wear the capes, the old ladies, and a little bonnet with
a – rose in the – or something in the front, and tied under the chin?
Well she used to put her cloak on, take her little jug, go down to what
used to be The Prince of Wales. Go down there and get a – half pint of
stout. Go home, take her bit of cheese, and she used to go down to a
friend’s called Mrs Tizzard – Emma we called her. And she used to take
her bread and cheese and her half pint of stout down there and have that
there with Emma. I can see her now. With her cloak and her little jug,
you know.22
Stout was a popular drink among women, particularly during pregnancy
and after childbirth. This popularity could have stemmed from advertising which promoted the health-giving and nutritious properties of beers
and stout (see figs. 11.1 and 11.2).
Fig. 11.1 Bass & Co. advertisement c. 1900–1910, Courtesy of The National
Brewery Centre23
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NEITHEr CArNIVAL NOr LENT: EVErYDAY WOrKING CLASS DrINKING
139
Fig. 11.2 Bass & Co. advertisement c. 1900–1910, Courtesy of The National
Brewery Centre24
One interviewee who was born in Essex in 1881 recalled his mother
drinking stout during pregnancy, even though his father was a teetotaller.25 Another interviewee who grew up in London had similar memories
of her mother drinking small quantities of stout on a regular basis
I remember mother used to have a bottle – a quart bottle of stout – very
reasonable in those days – used to last her a week. She used to have a little
drop in a glass like that – and then of course we’d all say to her can we
have a little drop.26
Bottles of stout and jugs of beer from pubs were not the only ways that
working-class women obtained alcohol. It also seemed to be common to
brew beer and herbal wines for home consumption. Most of the working-class interviewees were asked if either of their parents brewed or fermented their own homemade beer or wine
140
T. HANDS
She [mother] used to make beer. Homemade beer in a big yellow mug and
bottle. And have nettles or whatever it was drying on the line. Drying on
the line, nettles and herbs ready for her beer and sometimes she used to
tell me before I was born she used to sell it on a Sunday morning to people who came knocking at the door. They loved it. That’s when we lived in
Manchester before they came up to Salford.27
Brewing and selling beer for home consumption may also have been
a way to supplement income. Despite regional differences, working-class women from urban and rural areas, made their own beer and
wine. In some cases, women made non-alcoholic ‘botanic’ or herb beer
and wine that was drunk by the whole family as a ‘tonic’ or as a ‘treat’
but many brewed and fermented alcoholic drinks that were consumed
regularly
Interviewer (I): Do you remember your family brewing beer at all?
Interviewee (EP): Herb beer. Everybody brewed herb beer in them days.
That was all made of stinging nettles and various seed cones and you
had to tie the cork down with wire else it’d blow off. That was always
for Sunday dinner.
I: What was it like?
EP: Very good. Wish I had some of it now.28
By producing alcoholic drinks that could be consumed at home, working-class women could overcome some of the barriers to drinking posed
by gender values. It was perhaps also cheaper to make beer and wine
than to buy it from local pubs or licensed grocers. Aside from thrift,
there was more privacy in making and consuming alcohol at home and
therefore this could have been an attractive option for women who
wanted to drink. Yet there was a certain degree of skill involved in making home brew and the cost of equipment and ingredients would have
mattered. In A Plain Cookery Book for the Working Classes, published
in 1854, there were instructions for making elder wine and homemade
beer.29 Successful fermenting and brewing were dependent upon a fresh
supply of clean water, adequate equipment with the space to house it and
of course suitable ingredients. Making homemade beer and wine also
took time so given these factors and the constraints of money, space and
time faced by many working-class families it is surprising that so many
of the interviewees recalled their mothers’ making alcoholic drinks. As
Mitchell notes, for many working-class families, ‘dinner beer’ was a staple
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141
feature of the teatime meal, especially for men coming home from work
in the evenings.30 It may be that the production of homemade alcohol
supplemented the beer bought from pubs and if home brew was sold, it
added to the household income.
Many of the working-class families seemed to share the same tastes in
the types of alcohol consumed and also made similar choices in terms of
drinking venues. Beer, ale and stout were all popular drinks. The interviewees were asked about both their parent’s drinking habits and it was
clear that men and women’s access to alcohol and drinking behaviour
varied in terms of gender and region. Some stated that one or both of
their parents were teetotallers and never drank any alcohol and a few
described problem drinking and alcoholism in the family. Yet the majority recalled their parents’ drinking habits as being moderate and governed by concepts of respectability and by financial constraints. In some
regions it was socially acceptable for women to drink in pubs, in public and in the company of other women but most interviewees described
their mothers drinking at home in the company of husbands or other
male relatives. The pub was described largely as a masculine space and
this was perhaps most evident in the Worktown study where concepts of
masculinity governed drinking preferences and behaviour. The majority of interviewees recalled drinking behaviour that revolved around
‘normal’ and ‘everyday’ family life. Some spoke of enduring periods of
poverty and hardship during their childhoods, yet few attributed their
family’s economic circumstances to their parents drinking habits. The
interviews painted pictures of hard-working fathers and thrifty, capable
mothers for whom drinking alcohol was a small but significant part of
their daily lives. In these terms, drinking seemed like a banal activity that
was guided by the daily routine of family life and governed by financial
constraints. There was nothing carnivalesque about this type of drinking;
it was not excessive, nor was it pathological. It was simply another humdrum aspect of working-class family life.
NOTES
1. Thompson P. and Lummis T. 1970/2009. Family Life and Work
Experience Before 1918 (1870–1973): 7th Edition, Colchester: Essex: UK
Data Archive, accessed May 2009: SN: 2000: https://doi.org/10.5255/
UKDA-SN-2000-1: pp. 170–171.
2. Ibid.
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T. HANDS
3. Gusfield J. 1992. ‘Benevolent repression: Popular Culture, Social
Structure and the Control of Drinking’, in (eds.) Barrows S. and
room r. Drinking Behaviour and Belief in Modern Society: California:
University of California Press: pp. 76–91.
4. Thompson P. and Lummis T. 1970/2009.
5. See Appendix B for the full list of data extracted from the study.
6. The Pub and the People: A Worktown Study by Mass Observation. 1943:
London: Victor Gollancz.
7. Thompson P. and Lummis T.: Interview No. 39, female born 1891 in
London.
8. Thompson P. and Lummis T.: Interview No. 93, male born 1886 in
Essex.
9. rowntree S. 1908/2016. Poverty: A Study of Town Life: London:
Macmillan: https://ia800304.us.archive.org/28/items/povertyastudyto00rowngoog/povertyastudyto00rowngoog.pdf: accessed 16/2/16.
10. rowntree S.: pp. 325–326.
11. Thompson P. and Lummis T.: Interview No. 321, male born in 1899
from Nottingham.
12. The Pub and the People: A Worktown Study by Mass Observation (London:
Victor Gollancz, 1943): pp. 10–12.
13. The Pub and the People: pp. 10–12.
14. The Pub and the People: p. 27.
15. Ibid.: p. 43.
16. The Pub and the People: p. 47.
17. Meacham S. 1977. A Life Apart: The English Working Class 1890–1914:
London: Thames & Hudson Ltd.: p. 29.
18. Ibid.: p. 123.
19. Thompson P. and Lummis T.: Interview No. 23, female from Oxford,
born 1905.
20. Thompson P. and Lummis T.: Interview 298, Jane Willsher (born 1898),
Housewife from London.
21. Thompson P. and Lummis T.: Interview No. 81.
22. Thompson P. and Lummis T.: Interview No. 382.
23. National Brewing Archive (NBA): Bass Advertising records: c.
1900–1910.
24. NBA: Bass records: c. 1900–1910.
25. Thompson P. and Lummis T.: Interview No. 96.
26. Thompson P. and Lummis T.: Interview No. 53, female born 1894 in
London.
27. Thompson P. and Lummis T.: Interview No. 47, male, born 1902 from
Salford.
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28. Thompson P. and Lummis T.: Interview No. 113, male born in London,
1887.
29. francatelli C. E. 1853/1977. A Plain Cookery Book for the Working
Classes: London: routledge: Beer making: pp. 64–67; Wine making: pp.
57–57.
30. Mitchell S. 1991. Daily Life in Victorian England: Westport: Greenwood
Press: p. 127.
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CHAPTEr 12
The Drinking Cultures
of the Higher Classes
On the guests being seated at the table: It is not unusual, where taking
wine is en regle [customary], for a gentleman to ask a lady to take wine
until the fish or soup is finished, and then the gentleman honoured by sitting on the right of the hostess, may politely inquire if she will do him the
honour of taking wine with him. This will act as a signal for the rest of the
company … at many tables, however, the custom or fashion of drinking
wine in this manner is abolished, and the servants fill the glasses of the
guests with various wines suited to the course which is in progress.1
If working-class drinking can be described as humdrum and routine then
in contrast, the drinking culture of the higher classes involved a bit more
show and spectacle. There was a desire to consume alcohol in a conspicuous manner in order to reflect and promote social status and the key
ways of doing so were to consume the ‘right’ sorts of drinks in the ‘right’
kind of places. The quote above from Mrs Beeton’s Book of Household
Management describes the protocol for serving alcohol at dinner parties.2 for many middle- and upper-class men and women, drinking wine
with meals formed an intrinsic part of the daily routine—much like the
dinner beer of the working classes. Davidoff argues that imperial notions
of civility and social duty governed dining and entertaining, which were
the central aspects of Victorian middle- and upper-class social life.3 The
domestic context of alcohol consumption was governed by rules of social
etiquette, which both demonstrated and reinforced social class and gender values. Within middle- and upper-class homes purchasing, serving
© The Author(s) 2018
T. Hands, Drinking in Victorian and Edwardian Britain,
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-92964-4_12
145
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T. HANDS
and consuming good quality wines and spirits were key ways to demonstrate levels of cultural capital and good taste. Writing in 1853, Charles
Dickens observed that
Nothing in domestic economy tells more of home comfort and consequently of home happiness, than the quality and condition of the wine
and the manner in which it is served … without a good wine, a dinner is
worthless.4
Dickens wrote an article in Household Words that offered advice on
purchasing, keeping and consuming wines and spirits. He argued that
despite the glut of domestic cookery manuals, few had tackled the issue
of buying and serving wines to be consumed within the home.5 Dickens
believed that good quality wines and spirits were a necessary accompaniment to dinner and that bad wine was ‘abhorrent’ to good hospitality.6 He therefore instructed his readers on how to serve good quality
wines for dining and entertaining. The main wines consumed with dinner were port, sherry, Burgundy, Claret and Hock and when entertaining at evening parties, good quality champagne was served to guests.7
Dickens emphasised the importance of sourcing only the best quality
wines and spirits from reputable wine merchants but there were other
retail options.
In the wake of The 1860 Wine and refreshment Houses Act, the
wine retail market flourished and businesses like the Victoria Wine
Company built a reputation and success through establishing a nationwide chain of shops selling good quality wines and spirits.8 In addition,
the 1860 Act also stimulated the growth of the off-license trade which
lead to the expansion of licensed grocers. Therefore in the second half
of the nineteenth century, good quality wines, beers and spirits could
be purchased in a range of retail outlets. Many middle- and upper-class
homes held accounts with local wine merchants and licensed grocers,
and in most cases, women managed the purchase of alcohol. In The Book
of Household Management, Mrs Beeton described wine as an essential
household commodity. Her domestic guide outlined strict rules regarding the use and consumption of alcohol—from wine use in entertaining to paying the servants their beer allowance. for Mrs Beeton and her
middle-class female readership, knowledge of the correct and desirable
use and consumption of wine was essential because domestic dining was
the domain of women and as such it was governed by gendered rules.
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THE DrINKING CULTUrES Of THE HIGHEr CLASSES
147
for middle- and upper-class women, domestic dining, entertaining
and social engagements were some of the few occasions in which it was
considered permissible for women to drink alcohol and as with working class women, respectable drinking had to fall under the male gaze—
hence the moral panic in the late nineteenth century regarding women’s
access to alcohol through medical prescriptions and licensed grocers
which were both believed to have led to the reported rise in ‘secret
drinking’ among women of the higher classes. Although it was morally
permissible for women to drink at some social occasions, there were concerns that they somehow craved alcoholic intoxication more than men
and consequently were unable to govern their passions. following the
publication of an article on ‘drawing room alcoholism’ in The Saturday
Review in 1871, there was much debate in the press regarding middleand upper-class women’s drinking habits. Many of the regional papers
ran opinion pieces speculating on the causes and consequences of the
perceived rise in women’s drinking
Women seldom drink for gratification of their palate and the pitiable dram
drinker sometimes loathes the spirit she gulps down. Good or bad wine,
potato brandy, curacao or gin will satisfy her if only her nervous organisation be sufficiently saturated. The volume of light wine or beer sometimes
taken is almost incredible … The test of safety in the modern use of alcoholic drinks seems to be the power in the persons of fair health to leave
off their accustomed beer or sherry without inconvenience or moral effort.
This test might be occasionally applied by rational women to themselves or
insisted by their mankind.9
Dinner parties were some of the few social occasions where middle- and
upper-class women could drink for gratification and do so in a manner
that was deemed respectable. The same degree of moral scrutiny and
control did not apply to the drinking habits of middle- and upper-class
men, for whom dinner parties in the home were only one potential site
of alcohol consumption. Some of the interviewees in The Edwardians
study recalled their fathers drinking and dining in the gentlemen’s clubs
that were situated in and around Pall Mall and St James’s in London
Interviewer (I): Did he [father] belong to any clubs?
Interviewee (LP): Yes.
I: What were they?
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T. HANDS
LP: He belonged to the Oxford and Cambridge and he belonged to the
Carlton and he belonged to the Marlborough. King Edward put him
up for The Marlborough and I think he belonged to of course a lot of
Conservative Clubs and sort of country clubs and things, those were the
London Clubs he belonged to.
I: Did he go to them a lot?
LP: Yes. Oxford and Cambridge he went a lot.
I: On what occasions did he go there? To eat or when they were having a
debate?
LP: Oh he went there to eat and very often lunched there and usually went
in there in the evening.10
for men of the higher classes, gentlemen’s clubs offered an alternative
to the domestic sphere by providing private spaces for socialising, networking, dining, drinking and entertaining. In a study of late nineteenthcentury London Clubs, Amy Milne-Smith describes gentlemen’s clubs as
places where middle- and upper-class men forged their class and gender
identities.11 The London Clubs flourished in the nineteenth century and
between 1880 and 1914 there were 75 clubs located in the West End of
London and all were exclusively for men.12 regional gentlemen’s clubs
also gained popularity in the late Victorian period. for example, The
Western Club in Glasgow which was founded in 1825 for the purposes
of providing its members with ‘cheap and well-cooked dinners’ and
‘wine free of death in the bottle’.13 The Western Club was established
to cater for the needs of middle- and upper-class men living in Glasgow
and the surrounding areas by providing overnight accommodation and a
private space for dining and entertaining. Gentlemen’s clubs were run as
either commercial ventures or more commonly as members-only clubs,
which were formed through mutual interests and associations. The most
popular clubs with the largest numbers of members were political and
military clubs but other clubs were formed through mutual interests in
art, literature, sport, travel and school or university affiliation.
Some of the upper-class interviewees in the Edwardians study referred
to their fathers as ‘club men’ meaning that they spent a good deal of
their leisure time dining and socialising in one or several of the West End
Clubs. Club men were composed of politicians; landed gentry; doctors;
businessmen; militarymen; clergymen; and writers and artists. These
were men from different social backgrounds who shared a similar desire
to socialise privately but also conspicuously within clubs that offered
12
THE DrINKING CULTUrES Of THE HIGHEr CLASSES
149
both a means of social escape and a way to cultivate and display social
status. Milne-Smith believes that ‘clubs were relevant to a much broader
spectrum of the population than their members alone and the Club is
an entry point into issues of class, gender and social life in Britain.’14
Gentlemen’s clubs are also an entry point into issues surrounding alcohol
consumption and the drinking cultures of the upper classes which often
escaped public scrutiny.
GUARDIANS OF TASTE: THE DRINKING CULTURE
OF VICTORIAN GENTLEMEN’S CLUBS
Most of the private members clubs had organising committees and subcommittees charged with various tasks that contributed to the running
of the club. As dining and drinking were central and important aspects
of club life, many of the London Clubs had wine committees that
were responsible for sourcing, selecting and purchasing the alcoholic
drinks sold within Clubs. The archival records of two London Clubs,
The Athenaeum and The reform Club, offer insights into the ways in
which the wine committees operated in the late nineteenth century. The
Athenaeum was founded in 1824 for the purpose of providing a social
venue for gentlemen with shared interests in the arts, literature and science. The reform Club was established in 1836 and started out initially
as a political club for members associated with the Liberal party. By the
last quarter of the nineteenth century, both clubs, although founded for
different purposes, were attracting men who moved in similar circles.15
Sir Arthur Conan Doyle was a member of both the Athenaeum and the
reform Clubs and indeed many men held membership of several West
End Clubs where they dined and drank regularly.16 In a history of The
Athenaeum Club, written by one of its members Mr f. r. Cowell, the
author praised the work of the Club’s successive wine committees
Such a tribute is more necessary because histories of Clubs do not usually have much to say about wine, which matters less because memories of
vanished vintages and long-forgotten wine lists can be merely tantalising
irrelevancies to those with no hope of profiting from either. That many
members of the Athenaeum can recall Cockburn’s ’27 port and other
splendid wines is small consolation to them or anyone else now that stocks
are exhausted.17
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T. HANDS
Cowell applauded the ‘vigilance and skill’ of wine committees in ensuring that ‘splendid’ and memorable wines were served within The
Athenaeum. The club members who served on wine committees were
expected to liaise with wine merchants, select and sample various wines,
beers and spirits and ensure that the Club was stocked with the best
quality alcoholic drinks. In this sense the wine committees acted as
guardians of taste within gentlemen’s clubs. Bourdieu argues that the
consumption of goods is one way in which the concept of taste can be
used to define and demonstrate social class status.18 Bourdieu uses the
example of art to show that art appreciation is a decoding operation in
which the consumer possesses and uses the ability or education to unlock
and understand the meaning or cultural code in a work of art. In a similar way, wine appreciation is also a decoding operation in which the consumer must possess the necessary skills and education in order to make
informed judgements on the quality of wine. Educated judgements and
appreciation of art or wine require a certain degree of cultural capital
that was most evident in people from higher social class backgrounds.
Being able to crack the cultural code in objects and consumer goods was
a key way to cultivate and display social status and to delineate concepts
of good taste.
Bourdieu argues that the taste of the working classes is the taste of
necessity and function, whereas the taste of the higher classes is one of
liberty or luxury.19 The wine committees within Victorian gentlemen’s
clubs were tasked with cultivating and upholding particular standards of
taste in alcoholic drinks which mirrored the social status of club members. Although The Athenaeum and The reform Clubs were formed
through mutual interest and associations, the club members were drawn
from different social circles and therefore brought with them differing
levels of cultural capital which would have either enhanced or diminished
their knowledge and appreciation of alcoholic drinks. However, the clubs
had certain standards of taste to uphold and adhere to and these tastes
did indeed reflect concepts of liberty and luxury. The men who drank
in the clubs had the freedom and finances that allowed them to do so
and they expected to be served only the finest quality alcoholic drinks.
As guardians of taste, the wine committees did indeed exert considerable ‘vigilance and skill’ in ensuring that the alcohol consumed in The
Athenaeum and The reform Clubs reflected the class and gender status
of club members.
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THE DrINKING CULTUrES Of THE HIGHEr CLASSES
151
The wine committees of both clubs spent a good deal of time and
money choosing the ‘right’ wines, spirits, liqueurs, beers, cigars and
cigarettes. Both clubs dealt with several local wine and spirit merchants
and purchased various types of drinks from different suppliers. The
reform Club’s wine and cigar committee records from 1889 to 1904
contain detailed information on the selection and purchase of alcohol.20
Committee meetings were held regularly and consisted of dealing with
wine merchants, reaching decisions on sample tastings, placing or rejecting orders and managing accounts. The committee sampled different
types of wines, spirits, champagnes and liqueurs and orders were based
upon the tasting sessions. Effectively this meant that the types of alcoholic drinks sold within the Club were constantly changing. Between
1889 and 1904 The reform Club dealt with four wine and spirit merchants: Claridge, Cockburn, Alnutt and Campbell. The Club also held
accounts with major English brewers such as Ind Coope, Whitbread
and Alsopp. The wine list for 1891 detailed the types of alcoholic drinks
sold within the Club. The list was organised into categories of drinks,
for example: port; sherry and madeira; champagne; claret; Moselle;
Burgundy; Chablis and Sauterns; Australian; Hungarian; Italian; Greek;
liqueurs; spirits; mineral waters. In each category there were 14 types
of port; 14 types of sherry; 37 types of champagne; 10 types of Hock;
35 types of Claret; 5 types of Moselle; 13 types of Burgundy; 2 types
of Chablis; 6 types of Sauterne; 6 types of Australian wine; 2 types of
Hungarian wine; 5 types of Italian wine and 3 types of Greek wine. The
liqueurs and spirits section included: Absinthe; Benedictine; Angostura;
Vermouth; brandy liqueurs; Curacoa; brandy; rum; gin; Hollands and
whisky—Irish and Scotch. The beers and ales sold were Allsopp; Bass;
Burton; Scotch; Whitbreads extra stout; Stout; Guinness; Pilsner Lager
Beer; Bass’s Ale; Ind Coope’s table beer and cider. The wine list also
contained information on the vintage, date of purchase and price of the
drinks.21 Another wine list from 1899 contained 2 sections: Club wine
and Merchants wine. The Merchants’ Wines were marginally more
expensive than the Club Wines which were sold to Club members without a significant markup on the retail price—for example, Giesler Extra
Super Dry Champagne bought for 6s 7d per bottle was sold in the Club
for 7s 9d.22
The sale of wines and spirits generated modest profits but greater
profits could also be made by investing in stocks of wines that would
152
T. HANDS
potentially increase in value and therefore contribute to the assets of the
Club. In a history of The reform Club, Woodbridge states that wine and
spirits have always made the largest contributions to the profits from the
sale of provisions and claims that the Club’s leading assets between 1840
and 1910 were its stocks of wines and spirits.23 The Athenaeum wine
committee operated in a similar way to that of The reform Club and
as Graph 12.1 shows, wise investment in wine generated income for the
Club.
The graph shows a fluctuating profit margin from sales of alcohol because periodically, stocks of wine would be put up for sale to
Athenaeum Club members. for example in 1900, stocks of 1868
Madeira and 1874 Claret were released for sale and this may have
accounted for the larger profits generated from the sale of alcohol in that
year. Private clubs were not required to pay excise duties or license fees
for the sale of alcohol. In effect this meant that clubs could sell alcohol
at any time of day and because there was no payment of excise duties,
the alcohol sold within clubs was modestly priced. The absence of excise
duties also allowed private clubs to invest in stocks of wine that could
then be sold to generate more substantial profits for the club. However,
investment in stocks of wine was not without risk. In a contemporary
Graph 12.1 Income and expenditure on wines, beers and spirits in The
Athenaeum 1894–190024
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THE DrINKING CULTUrES Of THE HIGHEr CLASSES
153
account of London Clubs, Major Griffiths outlined the importance of
wise investments
If the [wine] committee elects to depend upon the wine merchants, and
buy in small quantities from time to time, it is called upworthy of the traditions of a great club; if the club keeps up a cellar facing the risk of deterioration in a large stock, or a change in taste that makes a particular wine
so much dead money, no excuse is accepted for the inevitable loss entailed.
One famous establishment not long since disposed of some hundreds
of dozens of vintage clarets – high class Clos Vougeot, Lafitte, Mouton
rothschild, and the rest – for a mere song, because they were no longer in
demand for after-dinner drinking, on account of the hunger so universally
displayed for tobacco. Yet again, when a certain brand of champagne failed
for some occult reason to win popularity, it was offered for removal at the
price of ginger beer, and the fortunate purchasers obtained a wine which
presently so improved by keeping as to rack with the best. No amende
was made to the sagacious members of the wine sub-committee who had
bought it originally.25
The wine committees were not only expected to purchase types of alcohol that reflected particular standards of taste but they were also tasked
with the risky business of stocking wine cellars that could a generate
fairly substantial incomes. Within gentlemen’s clubs, the purchase and
sale of alcohol were governed by a different set of social and legal rules.
The licensing of private clubs was dependent upon the club being either
a proprietary or private members club. In proprietary clubs, stocks of
alcohol belonged to the club owner who then sold alcohol at a profit
to club members—these clubs operated in much the same way as public
houses or hotels. Whereas in private members clubs, stocks of alcohol
belonged to all the club members who were viewed as being supplied
with alcohol rather than being sold alcohol at a profit.26 This was a legal
technicality which allowed private members clubs to escape the licensing
laws. It was not until the Licensing Act of 1902 that private clubs were
brought under any kind of legal jurisdiction. The legislation required
that all private members clubs selling alcohol were registered with
local justices but this did not mean that private clubs were regarded as
licensed premises and therefore the sale of alcohol within clubs remained
unregulated.
Clubland was viewed as a distinctly private sphere where dining,
drinking and conviviality could exist without any external interference.
154
T. HANDS
Legal definitions aside, this was also because Clubmen were drawn from
the social and intellectual elites. In this sense, the alcohol bought and
sold within gentlemen’s clubs was viewed as a respectable commodity
that was consumed for reasons other than mere intoxication. Arguably,
the real value of alcohol was not as an intoxicant or as a social lubricant but as a marker of education and civility. As guardians of taste, the
wine committees had their work cut out because the members of The
Athenaeum and The reform Clubs had high expectations of the drinks
that they consumed. Major Griffiths believed that Club habitués craved
comfort, conviviality and companionship and that they were drawn to
gentlemen’s clubs because
The best of everything is at their disposal; material comforts and intellectual delights of the sort that appeal to them. The pleasures of the table
are within easy reach; choice fare prepared by a chef who, with a more
or less violent stretch of the imagination, is supposed to pass as a cordon
bleu; wines of the finest vintages, if they are content to accept the committee’s selection, have been laid down for them, offering the widest choice of
drinks, and their perpetual absorption, if that way inclined.27
The Athenaeum and The reform Club sold a similar range of alcoholic drinks and indeed both clubs dealt with the same wine merchants:
Claridge and Alnutt. However club members did not always appreciate the selection of wines available and it was a common practice within
The Athenaeum to write complaints on the reverse side of dinner bills.
In 1893, one Club member, Mr Waldegrave Leslie, dined alone at the
Athenaeum and drank half a bottle of Pommery Vin Brut and a glass of
sherry. However the wine gave him cause for complaint
I have the honour of being a member of the Athenaeum for a great many
years. The wines of the Athenaeum used to be obtained from first rate
wine merchants. Why are some of these not now employed? I am not a
partner in any wine merchants ‘firms’ – I am not connected with the wine
trade in any way whatever. I protest against the liquor called wine supplied
by Claridge. Who is Claridge? The so-called Pommery Vin Brut on the
other side [of the bill] has never been made in the Champagne region. All
Claridge’s champagnes are as bad. They are not champagnes.28
Mr Waldegrave Leslie was a frequent diner who often wrote scathing
remarks on the reverse of his dinner bills regarding the quality of food
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THE DrINKING CULTUrES Of THE HIGHEr CLASSES
155
and drink sold within the Club. The marked dinner bills were kept and
passed on to the Executive Committee who dealt with any complaints.
The Athenaeum archive holds marked dinner bills from 1888 to 1910
and these provide insights into the type and volume of drinks that upperclass men consumed in the late Victorian period. When dining alone
most men drank moderately, perhaps having a glass of sherry, a half
bottle of champagne or wine and a glass of brandy and soda. However
there were exceptions: one diner in 1891 had a four-course meal
washed down with a pint of East India Pale Sherry, a bottle of Perrier
Jouet Champagne and a glass of Chateau Leoville wine.29 Club members of both the Athenaeum and the reform Clubs sometimes hosted
dinner parties where guests or ‘strangers’ were invited into the Club for
the evening. These dinner parties were usually accompanied with fairly
lavish amounts of alcohol. In 1901, Arthur Conan Doyle invited eleven
guests to dinner in the Athenaeum where they consumed 2 bottles of
Pale East India Sherry; 2 bottles of rudenheimer; 1 bottle of Chateau
Palmer; 8 bottles of Moet Chandon; 2 bottles of Port; glasses of brandy
and whisky; and cigars and cigarettes.31 More formal dinners included
a printed invitation which contained the dinner menu, including drinks
and toasts. The reform Club with its affiliation to the Liberal Party
hosted prominent dinners where members celebrated political victories.
At these sorts of events, the type and quality of food and drink consumed was of paramount importance and only the finest selection of
champagnes and wines were served. for example on 8 January 1924,
the reform Club hosted a dinner for members who were successful in
the 1923 General Election. The drinks menu included bottles of 1815
Olorosa Sherry; Mumm Cordon rouge Champagne; Cockburn’s 1896
Port; brandy and ‘fine Champagne 1865’.30
Within the London Clubs, the social status of alcohol consumers
went without question—club membership was a badge of honour and
an endorsement of elite status. Clubland not only escaped the licensing
laws because of the social status of its drinkers and drinking venues; the
alcohol consumed within the London Clubs also held an elevated status
as a respectable commodity that was consumed for reasons other than
mere intoxication. The private drinking culture of gentlemen’s clubs
was dependent upon more than a legal loophole—it was also very much
dependent upon a show of respectability. One key way to achieve this
was to select and consume alcohol that was imagined to be the preserve
of those with the financial means to afford it and the ‘right’ amount of
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T. HANDS
cultural capital to be able to fully appreciate it. In a similar way, middleand upper-class dinner parties also provided social opportunities to display wealth and social status. Knowledge of how to select and serve the
best types of alcoholic drinks was important and in this way, alcohol
served an important function. Although the drinking habits of the middle and upper classes evaded public scrutiny, the privacy and protection
afforded by the home and by gentlemen’s clubs did not diminish the
conspicuous consumption of alcohol but it did largely evade the spectre
of the drunkard.
NOTES
1. Beeton I. 1861. The Book of Household Management: London: S. O.
Beeton: p. 8.
2. Ibid.
3. Davidoff L. 1986. The Best Circles: London: Croom Helm Ltd.: p. 39.
4. Dickens C. 1853. Household Words, Volume VIII: www.djo.org.uk/household-words/volume-viii-p: accessed 15/09/2014.
5. Ibid.
6. Ibid.
7. Ibid.: p. 405.
8. Briggs A. 1965. Wine for Sale: Victorian Wine and the Liquor Trade,
1860–1984: Chicago: University of Chicago Press: pp. 18–19.
9. ‘Drawing room Alcoholism’: The Ashton Weekly Reporter: Manchester: 28
January 1871.
10. Thompson P. and Lummis T. Family Life and Work Experience Before
1918: Interview No. 2012, Male born 1882 in London. The interviewee
was Lord Parmor.
11. Milne-Smith A. 2011. London Clubland: A Cultural History of Gender
and Class in Late Victorian Britain: London: Palgrave Macmillan: p. 2.
12. Ibid.: p. 28.
13. The Western Club Archives: Wilkinson f. A. The Story of the Western Club:
From Its Inception in 1825 to the Year 1900: booklet written by a Club
member: no date.
14. Ibid.
15. Milne-Smith A.: pp. 12–15.
16. Cowell f. r. 1974. The Athenaeum: Club and Social Life in London 1824–
1974: London: Heinemann Education Books Ltd.: p. 55.
17. Cowell f. r.: p. 100.
18. Bourdieu P. 1984. Distinction: A Social Critique of the Judgement of Taste:
London: routledge: p. xxv.
12
THE DrINKING CULTUrES Of THE HIGHEr CLASSES
157
19. Bourdieu P.: p. xxix.
20. reform Club Archives (rCA): Wine and Cigar Committee Minutes:
1889–1904.
21. rCA: Wine and Cigar Committee Minutes: Wine List: 1891.
22. rCA: Wine and Cigar Committee Minutes: List of Wines requiring
Selling Price: 1895.
23. Woodbridge G. 1978. The Reform Club, 1836–1974: A History of the
Club’s Records: published by The reform Club: p. 73.
24. The Athenaeum Archives (AA): Executive Committee Minutes:
1899–1901.
25. Griffiths A. G. f. 1907. Clubs and Clubmen: London, Hutchinson & Co.:
p. 197.
26. Manchester C. 2008. Alcohol and Entertainment Licensing Laws: London:
routledge-Cavendish: p. 334.
27. Griffiths A. G. f.: p. 203.
28. AA: Cat 1/10: Marked Bills: 1891–1897: Complaint of Mr Waldergrave
Leslie.
29. AA: Cat 1/10: Marked Bills: 1891–1897.
30. AA: Cat 1/12: Marked Bills: 1901–1903.
31. rCA: Dinner Invitation: 1924.
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CHAPTEr 13
Conclusions
Drunkenness was only one of many outcomes or reasons that Victorian
and Edwardian consumers had for drinking. The desire for intoxication,
the multitude of ways to seek intoxication and the range of intoxicated
behaviour was infinitely more complex because it was deeply entangled
within the social and cultural context in which alcohol was produced and
consumed. When Brian Harrison wrote Drink and the Victorians he was
not particularly concerned with the motives of alcohol consumers and
many subsequent historical studies followed suit. The Victorians were
however concerned with the motives of alcohol consumers. Questions
about alcohol consumption drove parliamentary enquiries, shaped the
commercial practices of alcohol producers and sparked debates within
the medical profession. The Victorians knew that the problems of alcohol co-existed with the pleasures of drinking and that if alcohol remained
a legal intoxicant then the freedom to drink ultimately rested with consumers. While consumer agency existed, people’s reasons for drinking
alcohol varied and were influenced by broader political, commercial,
medical and cultural factors.
The ‘great army’ of drinkers signalled the beginnings of a consumer
society and a mass market for alcohol. Industrial scale brewing and distilling coupled with the rapid expansion of the alcohol retail trade generated more choice for consumers but also fuelled political concerns about
widespread drunkenness in towns and cities across Britain. If large sections of the population consumed large volumes of alcohol then it must
have seemed logical to expect large amounts of drunkenness. Yet the
© The Author(s) 2018
T. Hands, Drinking in Victorian and Edwardian Britain,
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-92964-4_13
159
160
T. HANDS
evidence given at the parliamentary commissions on alcohol suggested
that people found it difficult to pin down one universal definition of
drunkenness since ideas about drunkenness varied regionally and were
largely dependent upon the ‘three Ds’—the drinker, the type of drink
consumed and the drinking location. Alcohol was certainly a route to
intoxication but the witness testimonies at the parliamentary enquiries
suggest that drunkenness was not the only outcome. This was most evident in the accounts of working-class men’s drinking behaviour linked
to occupations in the heavy industries and manufacturing. These men
were thought to work hard and drink hard and this type of drinking
was largely accepted. The public drinking habits of the urban working
classes were subjected to moral scrutiny and witnesses gave evidence of
large numbers of drinkers frequenting pubs. Working-class Victorians
had a vibrant drinking culture with a wide choice of venues and types
of drinks. Implicit in the evidence given by police officials was the idea
that some public drinking was harmless and that a degree of pragmatism
was needed in policing drunkenness. Although less attention was given
to the private drinking habits of the working-class men it was largely
accepted that some alcohol consumption was normal, for example drinking dinner beer with the evening meal. The Edwardians study offered
greater insights into working-class men’s drinking that revolved around
family life and daily routines. Working-class fathers sometimes visited
the pub in the evenings or stayed at home and drank with their wives.
The Worktown study focused on working-class pubs and explored some
of the reasons men had for consuming alcohol. It showed that drinking behaviour was to some extent shaped by ideas about working-class
masculinity.
The parliamentary enquiries were much less concerned with the drinking habits of middle and upper-class men and often the only insights
came from the committee members who were alcohol consumers. The
heated exchange between the Bishop of Peterborough and reverend
Burns of the UK Alliance during the 1877 enquiry, cut to the core of
the debate about the extent of alcohol controls. The very idea of alcohol prohibition was an assault on masculinity because it infringed upon
the rights of men (all men and not just working-class men) to consume
alcohol. Controlling and restricting the sale of alcohol was one thing
but stopping men from drinking in the privacy of their own homes or
clubs was, to men like the Bishop, simply absurd. When examining the
records of the London Clubs it was clear that alcohol consumption was
13
CONCLUSIONS
161
imagined in a very different way where the status of alcohol was elevated
to that of a valued cultural commodity. Bourdieu’s ideas about the links
between consumption and social class were most evident within the
London Clubs where purchasing and consuming particular types of alcoholic drinks demonstrated levels of cultural capital.1 Victorian men of all
social classes were free to drink alcohol because ideas about male drinking and drunkenness were framed by larger debates about liberty versus
state control and in a highly patriarchal society the biological and moral
freedom to drink alcohol resided with men.
Yet men were not the only alcohol consumers. Women of all social
classes drank alcohol. The political enquiries dwelt upon women’s
drinking—whether it was working-class women drinking out in public
or middle and upper-class women drinking ‘secretly’ in private, it did
not seem matter because all women’s drinking was deemed problematic.
Some witnesses and committee members simply believed that women
were worse drunks than men. Yet the interviewees in The Edwardians
study gave a different account of women’s drinking that was viewed as
a part of everyday life. Working-class women made and sometimes sold
their own home-brewed alcohol. They drank to socialise or celebrate
or sometimes for health during pregnancy and after childbirth. In some
regions women drank in pubs or drank at home with their husbands.
Middle and upper-class women also drank alcohol as part of everyday
life. Dining and entertaining were occasions when it was socially acceptable for higher-class women to consume alcohol for pleasure. The issue
of the male gaze—or male power and control exerted over women, may
have influenced attitudes towards drinking but it did not curtail women’s
alcohol consumption. The political and medical concern about grocer’s
licences demonstrates that some women seized upon the opportunity to
buy and consume alcohol for their own private purposes. Working-class
women employed in factories and poorer working-class women etching
out a living on the margins of society drank alcohol publicly and blatantly. If viewed within the context of women’s oppression or conversely
women’s emancipation, alcohol consumption fits within de Certeau’s
ideas about a consumer grid of resistance.2 In this sense, alcohol presented a way for some women to challenge or escape male authority.
The Victorians and Edwardians drank for pleasure but they also drank
for pain. The use of alcohol as a treatment in medical practice continued throughout the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. It was
prescribed for a range of physiological and psychological illnesses and
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T. HANDS
Victorians admitted to hospitals sometimes received treatment with certain types of alcoholic drinks. Debates existed within the medical profession about the efficacy and ethics of prescribing alcohol and there
were concerns about therapeutic nihilism—that alcohol did more harm
than good, not only to patients but also to professional reputation. Yet it
remained an orthodox medical treatment and people held faith in alcohol as a medicine. Some interviewees in The Edwardians study described
their mothers drinking stout during pregnancy or after childbirth
because they believed it was nourishing and acted as a tonic. The idea
of self-medicating with alcohol may have alarmed the medical profession
but it was popular among alcohol consumers and this meant that the
health benefits of alcohol held enormous commercial value to the drink
trade. Marketing alcohol as a tonic was one way to reach consumers and
boost sales during a period when the drink trade faced moral and political hostility. By simply rebranding products to include the word ‘tonic’
on labels, alcohol producers boosted the market and ensured increased
sales. The boom in tonic wine sales at the end of the century could not
have happened without a receptive consumer market. People had faith in
alcohol as a therapeutic drug so all that companies had to do was market
products that could treat and prevent a wide range of illnesses. Drinking
alcohol for health was not the same as drinking it for pleasure or for
intoxication. Consumers could, therefore, drink alcohol ‘for health’ in a
socially acceptable way and the drink trade could sell an intoxicant under
the guise of a tonic.
Selling alcohol was a tricky business in the late nineteenth century
and in order to be successful, companies had to beat the competition,
reach a wide market of consumers and sell them something other than
an intoxicating substance overshadowed by the spectre of the drunkard. fortunately for alcohol producers, the capitalist system supported
such practices. Baudrillard’s analysis of the manufacturing of needs and
desires through advertising and marketing is useful when considering the
position of alcohol in the late nineteenth century.3 If alcohol was only
understood in terms of its basic function then it was a potentially dangerous intoxicant that could cause drunkenness and social ruin. If however, it came to symbolise something else, something desirable, then its
basic function changed. The challenge for alcohol producers and retailers
was to reinvent the substance as something other than a mere intoxicant
and James Buchanan did this very successfully with Scotch whisky, which
became a drink of the elites. By ensuring that those in positions of power
13
CONCLUSIONS
163
and prestige conspicuously consumed his products, it was possible to
turn a common alcoholic drink into a highly desirable cultural commodity. Other alcohol producers such as Bass and Walker also used marketing
strategies that created desires and gave consumers reasons to drink their
products other than for the purposes of intoxication.
for many people in Victorian and Edwardian Britain, consuming alcohol meant more than simply mainlining intoxication. Alcohol was both
an ordinary and an extraordinary substance that constituted an integral
part of everyday life. As dinner beer it was the antidote to the toils of
the working day. As Scotch, fine wine or champagne it was a marker of
social class status. In the hands of the medical profession or indeed commercial interests it was a panacea. In the mouths of women it was a subversive substance. People had many different reasons for drinking other
than the desire for intoxicated oblivion. Yet sometimes this was precisely
the reason for consuming alcohol. Drunkenness prevailed throughout
the Victorian and Edwardian periods just as it does today. The real problem with alcohol is the one alluring quality of the substance—it gets people drunk. Alcohol can therefore be viewed in the same way that Klein
considers cigarettes—as a dark, dangerous and sublime intoxicant.4 The
desire for intoxication drives alcohol production and consumption and
motivates alcohol consumers to drink in many different ways and for
many different reasons.
NOTES
1. Bourdieu P. 1984/2010. Distinction: A Social Critique of the Judgment of
Taste: London: routledge.
2. de Certeau M. 1984. The Practice of Everyday Life: Berkeley: University of
California Press.
3. Baudrillard J. 2003. ‘The Ideological Genesis of Needs’, in (eds.) Clarke
D. B., Doel M., and Housiaux K. The Consumption Reader: London:
routledge: pp. 255–259.
4. Klein r. 1993. Cigarettes Are Sublime: London: Duke University Press.
164
T. HANDS
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holder.
APPENDIX
© The Editor(s) (if applicable) and The Author(s) 2018
T. Hands, Drinking in Victorian and Edwardian Britain,
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-92964-4
165
Q. 2 Parents drinking habits
1
1902
M
Essex
Mother did not drink. father went to pub occasionally
2
1896
M
Horton
3
1892
f
London
4
1897
M
London
5
6
7
8
9
10
1888
1900
1887
1882
1897
1885
M
f
f
M
M
M
London
London
London
London
Essex
Essex
Brewed wine
on special
occasions
Brewed beer
and cider
Brewed beer
and wine
No home brew
(HB)
Not asked
No HB
Not asked
Not asked
Not asked
No HB
11
12
13
14
1905
?
1907
1889
M
M
f
M
Wiltshire
Cambridge
London
Essex
15
1886
f
Essex
Teetotal
Not asked
Teetotal
No HB but
father always
had cask of
‘four and a half
beer’ bought
from local
brewer
Not asked
APPENDIX
Q. 1 Home
brewing (HB)?
166
No. D.O.B. Gender Location
No pub but drank beer and cider at home
father W/M club drank whisky
No pubs/social drinking
Not asked
Parents drank wine at home and went to pub occasionally
Not asked
Not asked
Not asked
Bought beer from local farmer who had a shilling license. Men drank beer
morning, lunch, dinner. Boys given ‘mild beer’ with dinner
Not asked
Not asked about pubs
Not asked
(continued)
Q. 1 Home
brewing (HB)?
16
1882
M
Essex
17
18
19
20
1884
1882
1890
1897
f
M
f
M
Essex
Wiltshire
Essex
Essex
21
1891
f
Essex
Brewed own
beer
Not asked
Not asked
Not asked
Brewed beer
and made wine
No HB
22
1904
M
Essex
23
1905
f
Oxford
24
25
1882
1896
M
M
Staffs
Staffs
Not asked
No HB
26
27
28
1889
1895
1897
M
M
f
Northmub
Newcastle
Staffs
Not asked
Not asked
Not asked
29
30
31
1891
1900
1893
f
f
M
Llandaff
Staffs
Staffs
Not asked
Not asked
Not asked
No alcohol in
house
Mother made
elderberry wine
(alcoholic)
drink regularly
by parents
Q. 2 Parents drinking habits
Not asked
Not asked
Not asked
Brewed beer at harvest time—‘harvest beer’. farmer paid men and boys in beer
also father bought malt and hops with wages to make beer
Well off w/c family. Drank whisky at Xmas and beer with meals. Not asked
about pubs
father went to pub occasionally
I (interviewer): What about your mother, did she like a drink?
A: No
I: She never went with him to the pub?
A: Oh, good gracious me, not in those days!
I: respectable women didn’t?
A: No
father a ‘drunkard’. Spent wages on drink. Sometimes went to pub instead of
work
Not asked about family drinking habits. Was in Band of Hope as child and
signed the pledge
Was in Band of Hope as child and signed the pledge
167
(continued)
APPENDIX
No. D.O.B. Gender Location
168
(continued)
Q. 1 Home
brewing (HB)?
Q. 2 Parents drinking habits
32
33
1898
1984
M
M
Liverpool
Bolton
Parents did not go to pubs
father ‘not a drinker’—only went to pub to do business
34
35
1897
1900
M
M
Oxford
Oxford
36
1896
f
Bolton
37
38
1901
1895
f
f
Oxford
Oxford
No HB
Mother made
ginger wine—
sometimes
alcoholic
Not asked
father ran a
pub—family
lived above it.
Mother made
lots of different
alcoholic wines
Mother made
beetroot wine
Not asked
Mother made
wine
APPENDIX
No. D.O.B. Gender Location
father went to pub occasionally
Not asked
father went to pub regularly
father went to pub after work
Had dinner parties—in a humble rural way. Mother served her wine: ‘He
would serve that. Sometimes she would have, for very special occasions; he
might get a bottle of claret just for the dinner. But he, himself, he couldn’t
normally afford to drink not every day. But all country people, you know, made
wines and sort of beer and those sort of things’
(continued)
No. D.O.B. Gender Location
Q. 1 Home
brewing (HB)?
Q. 2 Parents drinking habits
39
1891
f
Oxford
Not asked
father drank regularly: ‘No, no, he - he didn’t go - perhaps about once a week
you know. No, because, I remember some of the older boys going round to
fetch the supper beer - which was a pint of beer for tuppence you see and they
had a glass each out of that for their supper. But none of us were ever allowed
to taste it. But the older boys they were allowed to go round with the jug in
those days - there wasn’t bottled stuff and things you see. And it was considered dreadful for a - a younger person to be in a pub you see - so that it was
only the older ones who were allowed to fetch the supper beer - or perhaps my
mother or father would fetch it themselves you know, remember a lot about
that’
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
1892
1890
1893
1901
1888
1896
1898
f
M
M
M
f
f
f
Wooton
Durham
Oxford
Liverpool
Liverpool
Salford
Liverpool
47
1902
M
Salford
48
1894
M
Surrey
49
1890
M
Liverpool
50
1891
f
Surrey
Teetotal family
Not asked
Not asked
No HB
No HB
No HB
Mother made
wine—her
‘home brew’
Mother used to
make beer
father brewed
beer sometimes
Parents ran a
pub. They lived
above it
Teetotal family
father went to pub regularly. Mother teetotal
father did not go to pubs
Not asked
Not asked
father went to pub occasionally
father went to pub regularly. Mother never drank
APPENDIX
169
(continued)
170
(continued)
Q. 1 Home
brewing (HB)?
Q. 2 Parents drinking habits
51
52
1891
1897
f
M
Liverpool
Salford
No HB
No HB
53
1894
f
London
54
1895
M
Bolton
55
1892
M
Salford
No HB but
mother used
to have a quart
bottle of that
lasted her a
week
Mother made
herb beer
No HB
father did not go to pub. Was in Band of Hope as a child
I: Did they brew beer for the family?
JL: No he used to go out for it—used to go out. from the top of Ordsell Lane
to where I lived there must have been a dozen pubs. One at every street
corner—I can’t think of all the names now but—one that me father used to
go in was The Liars Arms and it was the corner of where we lived and it’s so
strange that today—I collect a bit of coal money at week end for a gentleman who has opened—got a public house down there called The Albion—
and mother used to go in there at night with about ninepence for a gill and
come out drunk ‘cos everybody treated her
father went to pub occasionally. Mother went to music hall occasionally
56
57
58
59
60
1889
1891
1889
1878
1892
f
f
M
f
M
Surrey
Surrey
London
Essex
Surrey
Not asked
Not asked
Not asked
No HB
No HB
61
1873
f
Salford
No HB
father a ‘temperance man’ active in trades unions but had to go to pubs for
meetings
Mother had friend that ran a pub so she went there regularly. father never went
to pub but drank beer at home. Children had to fetch his beer from pub
Parents never went to pub
Parents never went to pub
father went to pub regularly—‘tuppence a pint’
Not asked
father went to pub regularly. Mother went to pub after she did the weekly
shopping
father went to pub on a Saturday
(continued)
APPENDIX
No. D.O.B. Gender Location
No. D.O.B. Gender Location
1901
1890
1903
M
M
f
65
1879
f
66
67
68
69
1887
1901
1883
1886
f
M
f
f
70
71
72
73
1899
1896
1891
1877
M
M
f
f
74
75
76
77
78
79
1898
1901
1895
1896
1887
1904
M
f
f
M
f
f
Wales
Surrey
London
No HB
No HB
Mother made
ginger wine
London
Mother made
grape wine
Surrey
No HB
Bolton
No HB
Salford
No HB
Swinton
Mother made
crab apple wine
and brewed
herb beer—
bought packets
of herbs
Essex
Not asked
London
No HB
Bolton
Not asked
Lancs
Mother made
redcurrant wine
and herb beer
Liverpool
No HB
Manchester No HB
London
No HB
Liverpool
No HB
Bolton
Not asked
Liverpool
No HB
Q. 2 Parents drinking habits
father went to pub sometimes for ‘a half’
No pubs
Did not mention pubs. Was in Band of Hope as a child
father went to pub occasionally
No pubs—parents ‘couldn’t afford it’
father went to pub
father never went to pub ‘he always had his drink at home’
Not asked
No pubs mentioned
father teetotaler
father went to pub occasionally. Mother went to pub in later life
father went to pub regularly—‘liked his pints’
APPENDIX
62
63
64
Q. 1 Home
brewing (HB)?
No pubs
father liked a drink and went to pub
father and mother drank in pub
Not asked
171
(continued)
172
(continued)
Q. 1 Home
brewing (HB)?
Q. 2 Parents drinking habits
80
81
1894
1897
f
f
Liverpool
Lancs
No HB
father brewed
beer
82
1889
M
Guildford
No HB
83
84
85
86
87
88
1900
1887
1883
1900
1889
1885
M
M
f
M
f
M
Guildford
London
Essex
Liverpool
Bolton
Liverpool
No HB
No HB
No HB
No HB
Not asked
No HB
89
90
1904
1885
M
M
Salford
Salford
No HB
No HB
Not asked
I: You told me your mum and dad used to go out for a drink?
LB: Oh yes. Yes. That was their treat—yes
I: How many evenings a week did your father spend at home?
LB: Well it—he always—was at home. It was just weekend that they went out.
Oh yes, because—they were very methodical—very methodical
I: In those days were women allowed in pubs?
LB: Oh yes. Yes
father went to working men’s club on a Saturday and also went regularly to the
pub
Not asked
Not asked
Parents did not go to pub
Parents were ‘temperate’—went to Band of Hope as a child
father was a ‘lifelong teetotaler’ and was in a temperance band
father did not drink. However step father did drink and this lead to mother
‘enjoying herself’ more and having a drink
Not asked
father always went to the beer house. Mother never drank. first job was in coal
mines—was paid in the pub:
I: This was a pub?
AT: That’s the Britannia. The pub—it was called the Britannia. That
I: You got paid there?
AT: Got paid inside there—with the corty master—used to—at the friday he
used to get all the money from the pits for the coal what we’d turned out
and he used to pay ‘em out you see
(continued)
APPENDIX
No. D.O.B. Gender Location
No. D.O.B. Gender Location
Q. 1 Home
brewing (HB)?
Q. 2 Parents drinking habits
91
1894
M
Guildford
Mother made
wine
92
1897
f
Essex
No HB
Was in temperance club as a child:
I: Did the Church run any temperance club?
TW: I think it did, but we didn’t belong to one. I think they had what was
called the Band of Hope, which was a temperance body, but while we were
lectured in sermons on temperance I don’t recall participating in anything.
But we were not … Drink was not discouraged, although my mother made
wine at home
father did not go to pubs
Mother had an ‘ordinary glass of beer’. father went out in the evening bit did
not specify pub
(continued)
APPENDIX
173
174
(continued)
Q. 1 Home
brewing (HB)?
Q. 2 Parents drinking habits
93
1886
M
Essex
I: Did she or
your father
brew beer
at all?
GR: Yes, home
brewed beer
they used to
have. Home
brewed beer
94
95
1884
1889
M
f
Essex
Liverpool
Not asked
No HB
I: Did you drink beer or did your father and mother ever drink beer with the
meals?
GR: I never remember having—them having beer or drink with their—beer
with their meals. No. Only mother used to have her half pint of porter
every—night for supper. Yes. Half pint of porter
I: That wasn’t brewed by them?
GR: Oh no, no. That used to come from the public house next door
I: Who would fetch it?
GR: Anyone of us. She used to go herself sometimes—only just out and next—
next door
I: Did she ever go and sit there and have it?
GR: I never knew mother to go in a—except this—sit in a pub—in a public—
I: Did women sit in pubs in Thorpe?
GR: Very seldom. Very few
I: It wasn’t considered the right thing?
GR: No, no. Not there, no
I: What about your father, did he go to the pub?
GR: Oh yes. Every night father went to the—every night he went his pub
I: Was that before he came home?
GR: Oh no, after he’d had his supper and done his work and done his gardening and all—summertime. He’d go about say nine o’clock or half past and
just go down there for his pint or two whatever he had and come—
I: Did he always go to the same one?
GR: Same public house, yes
Not asked
Not asked
(continued)
APPENDIX
No. D.O.B. Gender Location
Q. 1 Home
brewing (HB)?
Q. 2 Parents drinking habits
96
No HB
I: Were they both teetotallers or just your father?
WB: Oh well, father was but—of course, mother wasn’t and all the same very,
very little you know for instance if—she was going to have a baby she might
have a little drop of stout occasionally you know, but I mean not—generally
speaking she didn’t. See half a glass—if anybody came in—she’d—half a glass
of beer with ‘em. And talking about beer. If you wanted any beer you—you
took a jug to the pub. See? Bottling—well you see here on the pubs now,
bottle and jug department. You—you’ve seen that probably you see.
But—people never take a jug now do they? I’ve never seen anyone—for
years
I: Did she ever go and have a drink in the pub?
WB: Well—the only time—it’d be—they used to go, two or three of them, they
used to be mother and grandfather and—that little old fellow I showed who
was a slater. A dear old chap. And—perhaps a sister and brother-in-law you
know, they used to—they used to go in the Corner Pin in Strutton ground
and—they’d have a drink you know, perhaps on a Saturday afternoon, done
their shopping, but, you—know, just before they parted but you couldn’t
say they—they had much to drink
I: Would you mother ever go in on her own?
WB: Oh Lord, no
I: Wouldn’t be considered respectable in those days?
WB: No. And even if it was she wouldn’t go in. Any more than—well, you
know. I’m not a teetotaller altogether but I’d go out—I could go out and
step out all day without going into a pub. See? But if I met you or somebody I know—oh well, let’s go and have a drink
I: Companionable?
WB: Exactly
1881
M
Essex
175
(continued)
APPENDIX
No. D.O.B. Gender Location
176
(continued)
Q. 1 Home
brewing (HB)?
Q. 2 Parents drinking habits
97
98
99
1898
1895
1902
f
M
M
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Not asked
Not asked
No HB
100
101
102
103
1904
1898
1898
1882
f
f
M
M
Manchester
Liverpool
Lancs
Lancs
No HB
Not asked
Not asked
No HB
Not asked
Not asked
Mother was a ‘strict rabid teetotaler’ so no alcohol in the house and father did
not go to the pub
Not asked
Not asked
father went to pub
father went to pub when he could afford it
(continued)
APPENDIX
No. D.O.B. Gender Location
Q. 1 Home
brewing (HB)?
Q. 2 Parents drinking habits
104 1890
No HB
father went to pub:
I: Did he ever take you out on your own?
RP: Aye, once took me at Wigan. On—they used to have bird singing, lark
singing in cages. In Wigan. In a pub—in Wigan. And I went—I went with
him. And—used to put a cage—a bird cage down, they used to give it so
long to sing then they used to time it, how long it sung. That would go
away, somebody else would come with one and put it down. They used—
give it so long to sing, time it, put the time down, that away. And that’s way
how they used to do and them as has done the most time were the winner. I
know me dad won a copper kettle with it
I: Who provided the prize?
RP: This—these public houses—publicity—publicity to get custom you see
I: Do you remember what it was like in the pubs as a child?
RP: Oh they were all shankies—they were all shankies. No—no—
I: What are old shankies
RP: Low—low roofs with—with big wooden—wooden whatsits across
I: Do you remember any of the people who used to go in the pubs—what they
were like and what went on?
RP: I only know when me dad went—went in the—when there were bother on—
and—landlord sends across for him. He says, come across, Bill, he says, there’s
two Irish men causing a bit of a disturbance. Aye, he says, I’ll come across
I: He was very big wasn’t he?
RP: So he—he goes across you know and these Irishmen sparring out with one
another ‘ere, what’s the bother—outside, outside. They looked at him but
they didn’t seem to reach ‘em—I said outside. And he gets hold of both of
‘em. Bangs both of their heads together and pushes ‘e, out. He were a big
fellow you know
M
Lancs
177
(continued)
APPENDIX
No. D.O.B. Gender Location
178
(continued)
Q. 1 Home
brewing (HB)?
Q. 2 Parents drinking habits
105 1893
f
London
father went to pub Sunday lunch times when he was not working
106
107
108
109
110
M
M
M
M
M
Lancs
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Essex
Mother made
ginger beer and
rhubarb wine—
drunk by whole
family
No HB
No HB
No HB
No HB
See next
column
f
Liverpool
1887
1893
1904
1889
1889
111 1892
Not asked
APPENDIX
No. D.O.B. Gender Location
Did not say if father went to pub
No pubs
No pubs
father strict teetotaler
I: Did she make wine?
AB: Yes. Parsnip wine. Oh what’s the name of it—sloe—sloe wine—sloe wine,
sloe wine, sloe gin. All of us never drank it, nor did dad. Dad was teetotal
and mother was a teetotaler. And—and—when—when I moved into that
house and when dad died I threw—I threw away about a dozen bottles of
different wine that was made—years and years old. Man’d stood on his head
if he’d have drank it. They didn’t half—the builder didn’t half make a song
about it too—because I threw it away
I: Who’d have drunk it at the time—who did she make it for?
AB: Used to give it away
I: Used to give it to friends?
AB: Yes. Some friends—one thing and another. ‘Cos we never—we were all
teetotalers. We was all teetotalers ‘til we left home anyhow. There was—
there was only two—the oldest girl I think and the—and the brother that
did have a drink but—the oldest brother and myself—I never touched it
I: Never?
AB: No
father went to pub regularly. Mother was a ‘staunch teetotaler’
(continued)
Q. 1 Home
brewing (HB)?
Q. 2 Parents drinking habits
112 1901
113 1887
M
M
Guildford
London
No HB
Brewed herb
beer
114 1892
f
Liverpool
No HB
115 1887
f
Liverpool
No HB
116 1895
117 1893
118 1880
f
f
M
Liverpool
Liverpool
Lancs
No HB
Not asked
No HB
father went to pub occasionally. Mother teetotaler
I: Would he ever go out for a drink or something after he got home from work?
EP: Oh yes, the pubs were open ‘til twelve o’clock midnight then. And the
other side the river they were open ‘til half past twelve?
I: Would he always go out when he came in the evening?
EP: He’d have his supper first. And perhaps I’d be in bed and the—all the children. He might take mam out—just for—wouldn’t be far to go, just round
the corner. Have a bottle of Guinness
I: Did either your granny or your mother have any interests at all outside the
home?
MG: No, nothing at all
I: Did they ever go out to enjoy themselves at all?
MG: No. Only—you know, for a glass of beer. Oh they’d go in—in—oh they’d
enjoy that
I: Never went to a pub or a club or anything like this?
AS: No. No. No
I: Did he drink?
AS: No. He wasn’t a teetotaler but he never—no. The only thing, before
he died he longed for a glass of beer and I went up to Lark Lane to that
place and I was terrified because I’d never been in the place before and I
bought—mother told me to get two bottles of Whitbread’s—and I got this,
three of them. He only took a—just about that much off my—and he never
bothered any more. It was just a fancy he had. Yes, just a fancy and he passed
on just about a week afterwards so—yes. Yes
father went to pub
Not asked
Did not know if father went to pub
179
(continued)
APPENDIX
No. D.O.B. Gender Location
180
(continued)
Q. 1 Home
brewing (HB)?
Q. 2 Parents drinking habits
119
120
121
122
No pubs
No pubs
father went to pub at weekends. Mother went occasionally
Not asked
1884
1904
1903
1895
f
M
M
M
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Lancs
123 1897
f
London
124 1879
M
Essex
No HB
No HB
No HB
Mother made
beer and tried
to make stout
Mother made
herb beer
No HB
125 1878
f
Essex
No HB
126 1895
127 1900
f
M
128 1902
129 1887
130 1901
f
f
M
London
No HB
Manchester Mother made
mead
Yorkshire
Not asked
Colchester Brewed beer
Wales
Mother made
meth which
was a sort of
honey wine or
mead
APPENDIX
No. D.O.B. Gender Location
father strict teetotaler
I: Can you remember anything you did with your mother or father on
Christmas Day?
JT: Well—when we got older—used to buy ‘em something. I generally used to
buy him a bottle of whisky. That’s when we went to work you know. And a
bottle of whisky only cost three bob then. Half a pint of beer was a penny.
Half a pint of what they called porter was three farthings
I: That was cheaper than beer?
JT: Yes, it was a—I don’t know what it was made of, it was a kind of mixture.
You never hear of it now, porter
father went to pub occasionally
Mother kept a four and a half gallon cask of beer for home consumption
Not asked
Jewish family. father member of Jewish working men’s club. Travelled for
business
No pubs
No pubs. Drank at home
Not asked
(continued)
No. D.O.B. Gender Location
Q. 1 Home
brewing (HB)?
Q. 2 Parents drinking habits
362 1885
363 1885
M
f
Edinburgh
Dumfries
father strict teetotaler
father strict teetotaler
367 1886
M
Glasgow
No HB
Made ‘botanic
beer’—non
alcoholic
No HB
377 1890
f
Cardiff
378 1904
f
Edinburgh
Mother made
small beer
Parents drank
beer at
home—not
sure if HB
father was ‘in the spirit line’—managing or working in pubs, unclear which.
However father was a strict teetotaler
father teetotal—presumably ‘small beer’ was non-alcoholic?
I: Did he ever go out to any pubs at all?
MN: Yes
I: Oh his own?
MN: Yes
I: Or did he go with friends?
MN: Well he would go on his own or—or with friends. Occasionally—I
mean—it would—a pint of beer or a half a pint of beer was all that he would
go for, but he went into a pub
I: Did he ever take your mother in with him?
MN: Oh never. Oh—oh no. Oh she wouldn’t have been seen dead in one
(continued)
APPENDIX
181
182
(continued)
Q. 1 Home
brewing (HB)?
Q. 2 Parents drinking habits
382 1904
f
Dorset
No HB
435 1894
f
Dumfries
No HB
EC: father used to have a glass of beer occasionally but he never—used to get
drunk or anything like that
I: Did he go to the pub then?
EC: Oh yes. Yes. Now my grandma—I tell you—when I was—how old was
I—about twelve or thirteen I suppose—oh she must have been—must have
been going on a long time before that, but I can particularly remember—
you know they used to wear the capes, the old ladies, and a little bonnet
with a—rose in the—or something in the front, and tied under the chin?
Well she used to—put her cloak on, take her little jug, go down what is the
St ar now, used to be the Prince of Wales. Go down there and get a—half a
pint of stout. Go home, take her bit of cheese, and she used to go down to a
friend’s called Mrs Tizzard, Emma, we used to call her. And she used to take
her—her bread and cheese and her half a pint of stout down there and have
that there with Emma. And I can see her now. With her cloak and her little
jug you know. No. No
I: Was there any drinking at Christmas or New Year?
AS: Any what?
I: Drinking
AS: Drinking, oh aye, they—they did—they—they could—well, whisky was on
the go you know. But—the—it—it was chiefly tea you know, I mean it was
tea—after that, tea to the dumpling and—and—and that
I: What did your mother and father think about drink?
AS: Oh they—my father—my father took whisky you see, mother didnae drink
(continued)
APPENDIX
No. D.O.B. Gender Location
No. D.O.B. Gender Location
Q. 1 Home
brewing (HB)?
207 1899
M
Shetlands
233 1904
M
Isle Lewis
260 1891
M
Glasgow
I: Did people drink on these occasions?
JL: No, no, no, no, they didn’t drink, no, no, they didn’t—they didn’t. You
mean strong drink?
I: I meant beer or whisky?
JL: No, no, no, they—they—no, not—here again feltar was rather took you a
while to get that you see. There was nobody selled it you see. The merchants
wasn’t licensed to sell liquor, you see, that’s the thing. Except they had a bit
of on the sly about them you know. Yes, yes, yes, yes
Made HB using Not asked about pubs
treacle and
yeast
I: Did your mother ever go down to the pub with your father?
No HB but
RF: Not at all. She never served a customer in her life
father ran
I: Did she ever go for a drink herself?
pubs
RF: Never, she never took drink in her life. She never tasted—whisky in her life.
Without—unless it was a doctor’s order
Q. 2 Parents drinking habits
No HB
Data Extracted from Edwardian family Life Study
Source Thompson P. and Lummis T. Family Life and Work Experience Before 1918, 1870–1973: 7th Edition: Colchester: Essex: UK Data Archive: SN:
2000, 10.5255/UKDA-SN-2000: accessed May 2009
There are 140 samples in total: 1–130 selected as presented in the interview transcripts then 130–140 selected geographically to allow for regional
variations
APPENDIX
183
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INDEX
A
Absinthe, 151
Addiction, 4
Alcohol
adulteration, 49, 65
branding, 87
marketing, 88
medical endorsement, 117
medical uses, 64, 77, 95, 97, 100,
102, 105, 108, 115, 134
sale, 44, 85, 88, 151
Alcohol advertising
Bass, 63, 64, 66
Buchanan, 75, 77
Tonic wine, 115
Walker, 80
Allsopp, 59, 65, 151
Analgesic, 98
Analytical chemist, 52
Anonymous drinking, 35
A Plain Cookery Book for the Working
Classes, 140
Asylums, 105
Athenaeum Club, 149
Australian wines, 86
B
Backward integration, 71
Baltic trade, 60
Barley wine, 66
Barnard, Alfred, 61
Bass brewery, 60
Bass company trademark, 61
Bass Pale Ale, 62
Baudrillard, Jean, 66
Beer, 59
Beer houses, 16
Beer shops, 35, 36
Mrs Beeton, 146
Mrs Beeton’s Book of Household
Management, 145
Belfast Morning News, 62
Belvedere (fever) Hospital Glasgow,
106
Berridge, Virginia, 3
Birmingham, 27, 31, 33, 38
Birmingham drinking, 27
Black and White whisky, 71
Blended whisky, 69
Board of Customs, 51
Boer War, 79
© The Editor(s) (if applicable) and The Author(s) 2018
T. Hands, Drinking in Victorian and Edwardian Britain,
https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-92964-4
189
190
INDEX
Bogus clubs, 20, 34
Bolton. See Worktown
Bond, Edwin, 31
Bordeaux wines, 109
Botanic beer, 140
Bourdieu, Pierre, 5, 150, 161
Bourke, Algernon, 34
Brandy, 70
Bremner, John, 42
British imperialism, 4, 78–80
British Journal of Inebriety, 95, 110
British Medical Association, 97
The British Medical Journal, 99, 108,
110, 113, 120
British Medical Profession, 97, 100
British Museum, 14
British Newspaper Archive, 62
The British Society for the Study of
Inebriety, 2, 96
Brothels, 30
Buchanan, James, 52, 70
Burton upon Trent, 60
C
Capitalism, 5
Chablis, 151
Chamberlain, Joseph, 27, 33, 49
Champagne Charlie, 89
Chateau Leoville, 155
Chemical industries, 28
The Chrichton royal Asylum, 105
Cigarette smoking, 4
Claret, 152
Clubland, 153
Coal mining, 28
Cocaine, 117
Coca Tonic Champagne, 109
Coccolus indicus, 49
Cockburn’s Port, 155
Coleman & Co. Ltd. See Wincarnis
Tonic Wine
Coley, f.C., 113
Conan Doyle, Arthur, 149, 155
Conservative Party, 3
Contagious diseases, 102
Cossart Gordon & Co, 86
Coupon system, 115
Cowell, f.r., 149
Criminal drunkenness, 41
Croft & Co, 86
Curzon, George, 63
D
Daily Express, 70
Dancing saloons, 42
de Certeau, Michel, 46
de rutzen, Alfred, 35
Dickens, Charles, 146
Dinner beer, 132, 140
Dinner parties, 146
Dipsomania, 43
Disease concept of inebriety, 2
Dogs drinking alcohol, 98
Dover’s Powders, 106
Dram shops, 1, 30, 35, 42
Drawing room alcoholism, 147
Drink question, 2, 6, 13, 14, 16, 37
Drink Trade, 19, 20, 37
The drunkard, 13, 19
Drunken arrests, 27, 30, 31, 41, 42
Drunkenness, 15
policing of, 31
threat of, 21
types of, 28–31
Dublin whisky, 87
E
Edinburgh City Mission, 45
England, 23, 67, 70
Excise duties, 34, 152
INDEX
191
F
fahey, David, 14
fake spirits, 51
first World War, 8, 17, 96, 101, 109
folies-Bergere, 64
foucault, Michel, 5
four Crown Scotch Whisky, 79
french wines, 108
fusel oil, 51
Healths and toasts, 22
Heroic medicine, 100
Highland railway, 77
Homemade beer, 140
Household Words, 146
House of Commons Kitchen
Committee, 72
House of Commons whisky, 71
Houses of Parliament, 52, 71, 72
G
Gambling, 29
Gartnavel royal Asylum, 102, 105
Gentlemen’s clubs, 34, 148
German spirit, 51
Gin palaces, 1, 30, 35
Gladstone, William, 44
Glasgow Central Station, 77
Glasgow Hospitals, 101
Glasgow royal Infirmary, 102, 103,
107
Glen Spey Scotch, 88
Gonzales Byass & Co, 86
Government reports
1899 report of the royal
Commission on Liquor
Licensing Laws, 14
Great Northern railway, 77
Greek wine, 151
Gretton, John, 60
Grieg, John, 30
Guinness, 133, 135, 151
Gull, William, 53
Gusfield, Joseph, 130
I
Illicit drinking, 34
Ind Coope, 151
India Pale Ale, 59
Influenza, 125
Ingham Whitaker, 86
Inland revenue, 51
Inland revenue Laboratory, 51
Intemperance, 14–17, 20, 26, 27, 29,
32, 37, 50, 109
Invalid champagne, 124
Invalid Port, 125
Invalid stout, 66
Irish drinking, 29, 42
Irish whisky, 52, 87
H
Habitual drunkards, 27
Hall’s Tonic Wine, 117
Harrison, Brian, 1
Hawkhead Asylum, 102, 103
J
Jackson, Charles roger, 29
Johnnie Walker, 80
K
Kerr, Norman, 98
King Edward VII, 67
King George V, 71
Kitchen Committee, 73–75, 82
Klein, richard, 4
192
INDEX
L
Laissez faire, 15, 16, 22
The Lancet, 45, 65, 66, 77, 101, 108,
109
Lauder Brunton, Thomas, 53
Leeds General Infirmary, 99
Legislation
1830 Beer Act, 15, 16, 26
1898 Inebriates Act, 2
1872 Licensing Act, 17, 50
1902 Licensing Act, 35, 153
1904 Licensing Act, 4
The 1869 and 1872 Licensing Acts,
33
1913 Temperance (Scotland) Act,
21
The 1860 Wine and refreshment
Houses Act, 4, 16, 44, 146
Levi, Leoni, 37
Leybourne, George. See Champagne
Charlie
Liberal Party, 2, 155
Licensed grocers, 4, 41, 44, 46, 47,
80, 85, 122, 140, 146
License fees, 34, 152
Liqueurs, 86, 151
The Literary and Social Institution, 20
Liverpool, 30, 36, 38, 42, 60
London, 9, 34, 38, 60, 64, 67, 116–
118, 126, 137, 142, 148, 156
London and South Western railway,
77
London City Mission, 30
Lord Peel, 14
Lord Woolavington. See Buchanan,
James
MacLauchlan, George, 19
Maddening effect of spirits, 53
Madeira, 152
Magee, William, 32
Manchester, 22, 36, 42, 157
Manchester Courier, 62
Manet, Edouard, 64
Marza Tonic Wine, 121
Mass Observation Study. See The Pub
and the People
McLaren, Duncan, 45
Meat and malt wines, 113, 122
Mechanical engineering, 28
Medical drunkenness, 98
Medical temperance, 100
Men’s drinking
occupation, 28, 29
sexuality, 135
working class, 53, 133
Milne-Smith, Amy, 149
Mitchell, Tim, 4
Moderate drinkers, 13, 22, 26, 27, 30
Moderate drinking, 96
Moet et Chandon, 89
Mumm Cordon rouge Champagne,
155
M
MacDonald, James, 100
Macfie, Charles, 98
O
October ale, 59
Old Muscat wine, 122
N
The National Guardian, 18–21, 79
The National Temperate Society, 22
Nettle and herb beer, 140
Neuralgia, 98, 122
Neurasthenia, 109
Newcastle-upon-Tyne drinking, 28
Nicholls, James, 3, 17, 25, 28, 44
INDEX
Olorosa Sherry, 155
Opium, 106
Otto von Bismarck, 21
P
Pall Mall, 34, 89, 122, 126, 147
Parliamentary enquiries
1834 Select Committee on
Intoxication Among the
Labouring Classes, 15
1853 Select Committee on Public
Houses, 26, 30
1872 Select Committee on Habitual
Drunkards, 26, 43
1877 Select Committee on
Intemperance, 26–32, 34, 36,
37, 41, 43, 44
1878 Grocers Licenses (Scotland)
Commission, 44
1890 Select Committee on British
and foreign Spirits, 26, 50, 71
1895 Departmental Committee on
Habitual Offenders (Scotland),
17
1897 royal Commission on Liquor
Licensing, 26, 34, 35
1914 Commission on Patent
Medicines, 113
Patent still, 50
Patriarchy, 6, 35, 38, 46, 47
Peddie, Alexander, 43
Penny Illustrated Paper, 115, 116,
118, 119, 126
Perrier Jouet Champagne, 155
Pharmacopeia, 100, 108
Phylloxera, 70
Pilsner Lager Beer, 151
Pommery Vin Brut, 154
Porter, 59, 60, 62, 106, 107, 132
Pot still, 50
193
Poverty, 16, 36, 141
Pregnancy, 121, 138, 139, 161, 162
Preston, 29
Private clubs, 34
Prostitution, 29, 42, 133
The Pub and the People, 131
Pub games, 133
Publicans, 17, 19, 21
Public health, 2, 26
Pubs, 20, 28, 35, 51, 133, 137
numbers of drinkers, 27
Q
Queen Victoria, 71
Quinine, 106, 122, 125
Quinquina Dubonnet, 122
R
rabbit coursing, 28
railway refreshment rooms, 77
rational recreation, 16
reform Club, 149
reinarz, Jonathan, 60
reverend D Burns, 32
reverend James Nugent, 42
reverend William Turner, 45
rowntree, Seebohm, 132
royal Army Medical Corps, 117
royal Household Whisky, 71
royal warrants
Buchanan, 71
S
Saint Monday, 28, 29
Salford, 36
Scotch Distillers Association, 69
Scotch myths Marketing, 81
Scotch whisky, 51, 69, 74
194
INDEX
Scotland, 17, 18, 21, 23, 44, 45, 70,
80, 110
The Scottish Wine, Beer and Spirits
Trades Review, 18, 19
Scott, Walter, 69
Secret drinking, 43, 45
Secret remedies, 114
Self-medication, 122
Shebeening, 20, 36
Sheffield, 41
Shipbuilding, 28
Silent spirit, 51
Silva & Cosens (Dow), 86
Sing-song, 137
Smith, r.A., 14
Smith, William, 43
Social etiquette, 145
Sociological theories, 5
Spanish sherry, 70
Sproston Caine, William, 36
Stephen Smith & Co. See Hall’s Tonic
Wine
Still Watchers adverts, 78
Stout, 138, 151
Striding man. See Johnnie Walker
Sturge, Mary, 114
Sunday Closing Acts, 14
Swell song, 89
T
Tannin, 108
Teetotallers, 21, 25, 136, 141
Temperance, 14, 16, 19, 25, 27, 32,
36, 41, 81, 96, 98, 121, 134
Therapeutic nihilism, 96
Thompson, Paul, 129
Tied Houses, 15
Tonic wines, 95, 122
Trade defence, 18
Tudor Howell, W., 73
Turner, George, 31
Typhoid fever, 97
Typhus, 106
U
The UK Alliance, 27, 32
Umney, John Charles, 121
V
Vaults, 1, 35
Veblen, Thorstein, 5, 90
Victorian temperance movement, 1
Victoria Wine Company, 4, 146
Victualing Trades Review, 18, 20, 21
Vin Mariani Tonic Wine, 122
W
W & A Gilbey, 85, 122
Weir, ronald, 2, 70, 71
West End of London, 34
The Western Club, 148
Western Infirmary Glasgow, 102, 103
West Indian rum, 51
Westminster Gazette, 63
Weylland, John Matthias, 30
Whisky tide, 69
Whitbread, 151
White Coppice, 37
The White ribboners, 121
Whites Club, 34
Wilkinson’s Orange Quinine Tonic
Wine, 122
Wincarnis Tonic Wine, 8, 107, 114
Wine and cigar committee, 151
Wine committees, 150
Wine merchants, 90, 146, 150, 151,
153, 154
Women’s drinking
access to alcohol, 35, 133, 136
attitudes towards, 42, 43
INDEX
medical use, 119, 121
middle class, 44, 46, 147
working class, 42, 139
Working class drinking, 30
Working men’s clubs, 33, 34, 133,
136
195
Worktown, 131, 132, 135, 141, 142,
160. See also The Pub and the
People
Y
Yorkshire, 43