3 Indigenous Fermented Foods

13 Indigenous Fermented Foods LARRY R. BEUCHAT Griffin, GA 30223-1797, USA 1 Introduction 507 2 Fermented Foods of the Orient 507 2.1 Soy Sauce 507 2.1.1 Preparation of Soybeans 513 2.1.2 Preparation of Wheat 515 2.1.3 Koji Process 515 2.1.4 Mash (Moromi) Stage 516 2.1.5 Pasteurization 517 2.2 Miso 518 2.2.1 Preparation of Koji 518 2.2.2 Preparation of Soybeans 520 2.2.3 Fermentation and Aging 520 2.2.4 Modified Indigenous Procedures 521 2.3 Fermented Whole Soybeans (Natto Products) 522 2.4 Sufu 523 2.5 Meitauza 525 2.6 Lao-chao 525 2.7 Ang-kak 525 2.8 Puto 527 2.9 Ragi 528 2.10 Tape 528 2.11 Tempeh 529 2.11.1 Preparation of Soybeans and Fermentation 529 2.11.2 Biochemical Changes 531 2.11.3 Nutritional Characteristics 533 2.12 Oncom 533 2.12.1 Preparation of Peanuts and Fermentation 534 2.12.2 Biochemical Changes 535 2.13 Fish Products 536 2.13.1 Nuoc-mam 536 2.13.2 Bagoong 537 506 3 4 5 6 7 13 Indigenous Fermented Foods 2.13.3 Prahoc 537 2.13.4 Phaak 537 2.13.5 Katsuobushi 537 2.14 Kimchi 537 Fermented Foods of India 538 3.1 Idli 538 3.2 Waries 540 3.3 Papadam 540 3.4 Dhokla 540 3.5 Khaman 540 3.6 Kenima 540 3.7 Jalebies 541 3.8 Kurdi 541 3.9 Kanji 541 Fermented Foods of Africa 542 4.1 Dawadawa 542 4.2 Gari 543 4.3 Banku 544 4.4 Ogi 545 4.5 Injera 546 4.6 Kaffir Beer 546 4.7 Merissa 547 Other Fermented Products 547 5.1 Milk/Grain Products 547 5.1.1 Kushik 547 5.1.2 Tarhana 547 5.1.3 Kishk 547 5.2 Kaanga-kopuwai 548 5.3 Poi 548 5.4 Chicha 548 5.5 Pozol 549 5.6 Legume-Based Milk Products 549 Nutritional and Public Health Aspects 551 References 552 2 Fermented Foods of the Orient 1 Introduction Fermented foods, whether from plant or animal origin, are an intricate part of the diet of people in all parts of the world. It is the diversity of raw materials used as substrates, methods of preparation and sensory qualities of finished products that are so astounding as one begins to learn more about the eating habits of various cultures. The preparation of many indigenous or “traditional” fermented foods and beverages remains today as a household art. The preparation of others, e.g., soy sauce, has evolved to a biotechnological state and is carried out on a large commercial scale. It will not be the objective of this chapter to review in detail or even to introduce the reader to the many hundreds of indigenous fermented foods eaten daily. Space does not permit a detailed account and, besides, we know very little or nothing about the biochemistry and microbiology of many of these foods. Fermented vegetables, dairy products and beverages will be covered in considerable detail in other chapters in this volume. Tab. 1 lists some of the more common indigenous fermented foods consumed in various parts of the world. Many of these are discussedin the following text which, out of need for some degree of organized approach, has been divided according to the areas of the world in which they are most likely to be prepared and consumed. Several books (HESSELTINE and WANG, 1986; REDDY etal.,1986; STEINKRAUS,1983; WOOD, 1985) and reviews (BEUCHAT, 1987; CAMPBELL-PLATT and COOK, 1989; CHAVAN and KADAM, 1989; NOUT and ROMBOUTS, 1990; SANNI, 1993) have been published on the subject of indigenous fermented foods. A book describing applications of biotechnology to traditional fermented foods was published by the U.S. National Research Council (RUSKIN, 1992). A dictionary and guide to fermented foods of the world (CAMPBELL-PLATT, 1987) and a glossary of indigenous fermented foods (WANG and HESSELTINE,1986) provide excellent descriptions of known biochemical and microbiological processesassociatedwith indigenous food 507 fermentations. The reader is encouraged to consult these and other publications cited in the following text for more detailed descriptions of fermented foods. 2 Fermented Foods of the Orient 2.1 Soy Sauce The written records of the Chinese show that they have been using soy saucefor over three thousand years (YONG and WOOD, 1974). Production of soy saucein Japan probably was a result of the introduction of Buddhism from China and the consequent change to a vegetable diet in 552 A.D. (HESSELTINE, 1965). SMITH (1961) published a report on various methods of using soybeans as foods, including soy sauce, in China, Japan, and Korea. YOKOTSUKA (1960), YONG and WOOD (1974) and HESSELTINE (1983) have subsequently reviewed soy sauce fermentation in considerable detail. The technology of soy saucepreparation was at one time a closely guarded family art passedon from one generation to the next. While there are still unique formulae used on a domestic level, the major steps involved in the manufacture of soy sauce are no longer a secret. There is, however, much to be learned about the biochemical changeswhich occur during fermentation and lead to desirable as well asundesirable sensory qualities in the finished product. Two distinct basic processescan be used to prepare soy sauce (BEUCHAT, 1984). The first involves fermentation with microorganisms and the second, i.e., chemical method, involves the use of acids to promote hydrolysis of ingredient constituents. The latter method will not be discussedhere mainly because it cannot be considered as traditional or indigenous, but also because there are many who consider the end product to be inferior and not in a class deserving of recognition as a substitute for the fermented product. Further- Tab. 1. Indigenous Fermented Foodsa Product Geography Substrate Microorganism(s) Nature of Product Product Use Ang-kak (anka, red rice) Bagoong Bagni Banku China, Southeast Asia, Syria Philippines Caucasus Ghana Rice Monascus Dry red powder Colorant Fish Millet Maize, cassava Unknown Unknown Lactic acid bacteria, yeasts Paste Liquid Dough Seasoning agent Drink Staple Bonkrek Central Java (Indonesia) Coconut press cake Rhizopus Solid Egypt Wheat Millet Sorghum and cassava Roasted or fried in oil, used as a meat substitute Thick acidic Drink Creamy drink with suspended solids Bouza Braga Burukutu Romania Savannah regions of Nigeria Chee-fan Tartars of Krim, Turkestan, Egypt China Soybean wheat curd Chicha Peru Maize Chichwangue Chinese yeast Congo China Cassava roots Soybeans Darassum Dawadawa (daddowa, uri, kpalugu, kinda) Mongolia West Africa, Nigeria Millet African Dhokla India Dosai (doza) India Bengal gram and wheat Black gram and rice Busa Rice or millet, sugar locust bean purpureus oligosporus Unknown Unknown Lactic acid bacteria, Candida spp., Saccharomyces cerevisiae Lactobacillus and Saccharomyces Mucor sp., Aspergillus glaucus Aspergillus, Penicillium spp., yeasts, bacteria Bacteria Mucoraceous molds and yeasts Liquid Liquid Liquid Liquid Drink Solid Eaten fresh, cheeselike Eaten with vegetables SPOWY Paste Solid Unknown Lactic acid bacteria, yeasts Liquid Solid, sun-dried Unknown SPOWY Staple Eaten fresh or canned, used as a side dish with rice Drink Eaten fresh, supplement to soups, stews Condiment Yeasts, Leuconostoc Spongy, pancake-like Breakfast food Liquid Seasoning agent mesenteroides Fish sauce (nuocmam, patis, mampla, ngam-pya-ye) Southeast Asia Fish Bacteria 3 $ R R 2 s Gari West Africa Cassava root Hamanatto Japan Whole soybeans, wheat flour Idli Southern Injera Ethiopia Jalebies India, Nepal, Pakistan Teff, or maize wheat, barley, sorghum Wheat flour Jamin-bang Kaanga-kopuwai Kanji Brazil New Zealand India Maize Maize Rice and carrots Katsuobushi Kecap Japan Indonesia Whole fish Soybeans, wheat Kenim Kenkey Nepal, Sikkim, Darjeeling district of India Ghana Ketjap Khaman Kimchi (kim-thee) Indonesia India Korea Kishk (kushuk, kushik) Lafun Lao-chao Egypt, Syria, Arab world West Africa, Nigeria China, Indonesia India and vicinity Beans retain individual form, raisin-like, soft Spongy, moist Eaten fresh as staple with stews, vegetables Flavoring agent for meat and fish, eaten as snack Bread substitute Bread-like. Bread substitute Corynebacterium manihot, Geotrichum candidum Aspergillus oryzae, Streptococcus, Pediococcus Lactic bacteria (Leuconostoc mesenteroides), Torulopsis candida and Trichosporon pullulans Candida guilliermondii Saccharomyces bayanus Yeasts and bacteria Bacteria and yeasts Hansenula anomala Wet paste Solid, dry Liquid Soybeans Aspergillus glaucus Aspergillus oryzae, Lactobacillus, Hansenula, Saccharomyces Unknown Solid Snack Maize Unknown Mush Black soybeans Bengal gram Vegetables, sometimes seafoods, nuts Wheat, milk Aspergillus oryzae Unknown Lactic acid bacteria Syrup Solid, cake-like Solid and liquid Steamed, eaten with vegetables Seasoning agent Breakfast food Condiment Lactic acid bacteria, Bacillus spp. Bacteria Rhizopus oryzae, R. chinensis, Chlamydomucor oryzae, Saccharomycopsis SP. Solid Rice and black gram Cassava root Rice moist Pretzel-like, syrup filled Bread or cake-like Soft, slimy Liquid Paste Soft, juicy, glutinous Confection Bread substitute Eaten as vegetable Sour, added to vegetables Seasoning agent Condiment, seasoning agent Dried balls dispersed rapidly in water Staple food Eaten as such as dessert or combined with eggs, seafood Tab. 1. Indigenous Fermented Product Mahewu (Magou) wl z: Foodsa (Continued) Geography Substrate Microorganism(s) Nature of Product Product Use South Africa Maize Lactic acid bacteria (Lactobacillus delbrueckii) Actinomucor elegans Liquid Drink, sour and nonalcoholic Aspergillus oryzae, Rhizopus spp. Saccharomyces sp. Paecilomyces, Aspergillus, Cladosporium, Fusarium, Syncephalastum, Penicillium, Tricothecium spp. Aspergillus oryzae, Torulopsis etchellsii, Lactobacillus Unknown Paste Fried in oil or cooked with vegetables Seasoning agent Liquid Solid Drink Condiment Paste Soup base, seasoning Liquid Drink Unknown Solid Snack Bacillus natto Solid Lactic bacteria (Cephalosporium, Fusarium, Aspergillus, Penicillium spp., Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Candida mycoderma (C. valida or C. vini) Neurospora intermedia, less often Rhizopus oligosporus Saccharomyces spp. Unknown Paste Cake, as a meat substitute Staple, eaten for breakfast, weaning babies Meitauza China, Taiwan Soybean cake Meju Korea Soybeans Merissa Minchin Sudan China Sorghum Wheat gluten Miso (chiang, jang, doenjang, tauco, tao chieo) Munkoyo Japan, China Nan (khab-z) Natto India, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Iran Northern Japan Rice and soybeans or rice and other cereals such as barley Millet, maize or kaffir corn plus roots of munkoyo Unbleached wheat flour Soybeans Ogi Nigeria, West Africa Maize Oncom (ontjom, lont jam> Indonesia Peanut press cake Papadam Peujeum India Java Black gram Banana, plantain Africa Solid Solid Solid, crisp Solid Roasted or fried in oil, used as meat substitute Condiment Eaten fresh or fried 2 2 % % g 5 Guineacorn or maize or both Taro corms Pit0 Nigeria Poi Hawaii PO201 Southeastern Prahoc Put0 Cambodia Philippines Fish Rice Rabdi India Maize and buttermilk Sierra rice Ecuador Unhusked Sorghum beer (Ibantu beer, kaffir beer, leting, joala, utshivala, mqomboti, igwelel) Soybean milk Soy sauce (Chaing-yu, shoyu, toyo, kanjang, kecap, seeieu) South Africa Sorghum, maize China, Japan Japan, China, Philippines, other parts of Orient Soybeans Soybeans and wheat Sufu (tahur, taokaoan, tao-hu-yi) China, Taiwan Soybean whey curd Tao-si Philippines Taotjo East Indies Soybeans plus wheat flour Soybeans plus roasted wheat meal or glutinous rice Mexico Maize rice Unknown Liquid Drink Lactobacillus bacteria, Candida vini (Mycoderma vini), Geotrichum candidum Molds, yeasts, bacteria Unknown Lactic acid bacteria, Saccharomyces cerevisiae Unknown Semi-solid Side dish with fish, meat Dough, spongy Diluted with water, drunk as basic food Seasoning agent Snack Aspergillus flavus, A. candidus, Bacillus subtilis Lactic acid bacteria, yeasts Solid Paste Solid Semi-solid Liquid Lactic acid bacteria Aspergillus oryzae or A. soyae, Lactobacillus bacteria, Zygosaccharomyces rouxii Actinomucor elegans, Mucor hiemalis, M. silvaticus, M. subtilissimus Aspergillus oryzae Liquid Liquid Aspergillus oryzae Mush, eaten with vegetables Brownish-yellow, seasoning Drink, acidic and weakly alcoholic Drink Seasoning for meat, fish, cereals, vegetables to 2 3 2 ifi Solid Soybean cheese, condiment ? 5. % 2 Semi-solid Seasoning agent 9 s Semi-solid Condiment Tab. 1. Indigenous Fermented VI G Foods” (Continued) Product Geography Substrate Microorganism(s) Nature of Product Product Use Tape Indonesia and vicinity Cassava or rice Soft solid Eaten fresh as staple Tarhana Turkey Solid powder Tauco West Java (Indonesia) Parboiled wheat meal and yoghurt (2 : 1) Soybeans, cereals Saccharomyces cerevisae, Hansenula anomala, Rhizopus oryzae, Chlamydomucor oryzae, Mucar sp., Endomycopsis fibuliger (Saccharomycopsis sP*) Lactic acid bacteria Liquid Tempeh (tempe kedeke) Indonesia and vicinity, Surinam Soybeans Rhizopus oligosporus, Aspergillus oryzae Rhizopus spp., principally R. oligosporus Dried seasoning for soups Drink Thumba West Bengal Millet Liquid Torani India Rice Waries India Black gram flour Endomycopsis fibuliger Hansenula anomala, Candida guilliermondii, C. tropicalis, Geotrichum candidum Candida spp., Saccharomyces spp. (bojah) a Compiled from BEUCHAT (1983, 1987) CAMPBELL-PLATT (1986) and STANTON and WALLBRIDGE (1969) Solid Liquid Spongy Fried in oil, roasted, or used as meat substitute in soup Drink, mildly alcoholic Seasoning for vegetables Spicy condiment eaten with vegetables, legumes, rice (1987) HESSELTINE (1979) HESSELTINE and WANG (1980, 1986), REDDY et al.