Videos by Silvia Blas Riesgo
Combining three focus groups and an online survey, this research, exploratory in nature, delves i... more Combining three focus groups and an online survey, this research, exploratory in nature, delves into consumers' perception and consumption of sustainable fashion in Spain. We try to identify and profile the under-researched segment of sustainable consumers, contrast their behavior with the average consumers, and determine the drivers and barriers for sustainable fashion consumption. 152 views
Papers by Silvia Blas Riesgo
Routledge eBooks, Apr 9, 2024
Indumenta Revista del Museo del Traje , 2023
English
Despite the growing legislation and adoption of sustainable strategies by fashion compani... more English
Despite the growing legislation and adoption of sustainable strategies by fashion companies, sustainable fashion remains a niche sector. Consumers declare increasing concern and interest in the topic, but there has not been a corresponding increase in sales, which is known as the attitude-behavior gap. In this regard, collections and museums of sustainable fashion can play a key role in dissemination, education, and awareness, helping to bridge this gap. This research provides a succinct overview of national and international sustainable fashion collections, focusing on the FashionFor Good museum as a case study. It is the only museum in the world dedicated exclusively to sustainable fashion. Methodologically, to address this case study, primary and secondary sources are examined, and lastly, an analysis of the reception of the museum by the public is presented.
Spanish
A pesar de la creciente legislación y adopción deestrategias sostenibles por parte de las empresas, la moda sosteniblesigue siendo un sector de nicho. Los consumidores declaran unacreciente preocupación e interés por el tema, pero no ha habidoun incremento en ventas correspondiente, lo que se conoce comola brecha entre actitud y comportamiento. En este sentido, lascolecciones y museos de moda sostenible pueden jugar un triple rolclave, divulgativo, educativo y de concienciación, con lo que se ayudaa subsanar dicha brecha.La presente investigación aborda de forma sucinta coleccionesde moda sostenible a nivel nacional e internacional, centrándose através de un estudio de caso en el museo Fashion For Good, el únicomuseo dedicado exclusivamente a la moda sostenible en el mundo.Metodológicamente, para abordar este estudio de caso, se examinanfuentes primarias y secundarias y se presenta un análisis de larecepción por parte del público
International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 2022
This research identifies and portrays the under-researched segment of sustainable fashion consume... more This research identifies and portrays the under-researched segment of sustainable fashion consumers, drawing a comparison with the average consumers in Spain, and defines the drivers and barriers for sustainable fashion consumption, further contributing to the attitude-behaviour gap literature. Based on a sample of 1,063 respondents and 23 focus group participants, and following the Theory of Planned Behaviour, the results indicate that lack of trust in fashion companies and their sustainable statements is the main reason preventing consumers from buying sustainable products or doing it more often, followed by higher prices. It appears that the more sustainably conscious consumers are, the less they buy brand-new, preferring alternatives such as secondhand (mainly) and renting. Sustainable fashion consumers demonstrate greater fashion consciousness, environmental concern, perceived consumer effectiveness, and a higher subjective norm than average consumers. Conversely, price is still a critical purchasing driver for the average consumer.
Fashion Practice, 2022
Using choice-based conjoint analysis, this research explores consumer behavior for sustainable fa... more Using choice-based conjoint analysis, this research explores consumer behavior for sustainable fashion in Spain. We confronted consumers through an online survey with a real marketplace situation in which they had to make trade-offs between different attributes and where the importance of the price factor was explicitly considered. Specifically, the information available for consumers on clothing hangtags – price, country of origin, material composition, and (with/without) fair-trade label – was used to study consumer preferences for sustainable fashion products. Furthermore, we examined how consumers ponder the five dimensions of sustainable fashion – functionality, authenticity, exclusivity, localism and equity. Based on a sample of 1,063 respondents, the results indicate that price is still the critical purchasing driver for the average consumer. 31.9% of the sample always chose the lowest price-tag independently of the other attributes. Combining the conjoint results, the attitude towards the five dimensions of slow fashion, and demographics, we identified four clusters of consumers: Sustainability Rejecters, Sustainability Neutrals, Sustainability Believers, and Sustainability Enthusiasts. Ninety-two consumers, 8.65% of the sample, appear to buy sustainable fashion regularly. This endorses and significantly adds to the literature on sustainable fashion consumer behavior in a flourishing market and to the attitude-behavior gap research.
Miguel Hernández Communication Journal, 2019
In contemporary democratic society, Twitter can promote a
genuine public debate where the discuss... more In contemporary democratic society, Twitter can promote a
genuine public debate where the discussion is not limited to
established social actors. The goal is studying how media outlets,
journalists, political parties, candidates, and citizens behave
on Twitter while following the 2015 election night in Spain. A
quantitative analysis has been used, specifically focused on the
activity generated on Twitter during the period of vote counting
(n=201,661 tweets). The data was captured with Tweet Binder,
a web tool that allows the live monitoring of the flow of tweets
related to an event using specific hashtags and keywords. The
results reveal that media outlets are at the center of Twitter activity (representation), but citizens gain high
visibility by using humor in the conversation (participation). Founded on the distinctive characteristics of the
Spanish context, this article contributes to the understanding of the role of Twitter during a live political event.
Conference Presentations by Silvia Blas Riesgo
Jornadas moda y museos: "La moda en museos y colecciones", 2023
A pesar del creciente corpus legislativo para dirigir la industria de la moda hacia metas más sos... more A pesar del creciente corpus legislativo para dirigir la industria de la moda hacia metas más sostenibles y la progresiva adopción por parte de las empresas de moda de estrategias sostenibles, la moda sostenible se puede considerar todavía como un sector de nicho. Los consumidores declaran una creciente preocupación e interés por el tema, pero no ha habido un incremento en ventas correspondiente, lo que se conoce como ‘la brecha entre actitud y comportamiento’. En este sentido, las colecciones y museos de moda sostenible pueden jugar un triple rol clave divulgativo, educativo y de concienciación, ayudando a subsanar la brecha entre actitud y comportamiento en el consumo de moda sostenible.
La presente investigación aborda de forma sucinta colecciones de moda sostenible nacionales e internacionales y se centra en el museo Fashion For Good, que es, hasta la fecha, el único museo enteramente dedicado a la moda sostenible en el mundo. Metodológicamente para abordar este estudio de caso se analizan fuentes primarias – visita al museo, su página web y redes sociales, y los comunicados de prensa del museo – así como fuentes secundarias. Finalmente, se presenta un análisis de la recepción por parte del público. Para ello se analizan 217 recensiones de visitantes al museo redactadas en Google (207) y en TripAdvisor (10). Se realiza un análisis descriptivo: lengua de la reseña, fecha de la visita y calificación del museo; así como un análisis del contenido.
Factum19 - Digital Fashion Communication Conference 2019, 2019
Sustainable fashion has gained significant interest among both scholars and society in recent yea... more Sustainable fashion has gained significant interest among both scholars and society in recent years. Several studies have pointed out that consumers have a positive attitude towards sustainable fashion but fail to translate this attitude into behaviour. This has been called as the Fashion Paradox. Thus, the currently ongoing research aims to understand to what extent do Spanish consumers care about sustainable fashion, deep into the causes of the attitude-behaviour gap among the Spanish consumers and to profile the different kinds of socially responsible consumers considering demographics, attitudes, and motivations. Even though, in recent years, sustainable fashion brands have flourished in the Spanish market and no researches have been conducted to understand the fashion consumers' behaviour in Spain. To reach our purpose, we will conduct several focus groups and a survey in which we will apply a conjoint analysis to simulate real marketplace situations and to minimize the social desirability bias. We will use a cluster analysis to profile the different kinds of potential sustainable fashion consumers, and we will compare the results to previous researches from other markets.
Responsible Fashion Series Antwerp, 2021
In recent years, alternative business models – such as slow fashion and collaborative fashion con... more In recent years, alternative business models – such as slow fashion and collaborative fashion consumption - have surged with the aim of the fashion industry to become more sustainable. At the same time, it has been stated that there is an increasing demand for sustainable fashion; however, it seems that consumers fail to translate that interest or intention for sustainable fashion into purchasing behavior. To this date, consumer attitudes, values, drivers, and barriers regarding sustainable fashion remain relatively under-researched. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to identify the enabling and disabling factors that influence consumer behavior and to identify and profile the sustainable consumers, contrasting their behavior with the average consumers.
As a methodology, we implemented a mix-method approach consisting of three focus groups (n=25) followed up by a survey with 1’063 respondents to investigate and compare the attitudes, values, and perceptions of risks to engage with slow fashion and/or collaborative fashion consumption among non-sustainable fashion consumers (NSFC) and sustainable fashion consumers (SFC) in Spain. The data gathered from the focus groups was evaluated following a means-end chain (MEC) analysis, which links product attributes with consumers’ personal values. The survey was designed under the Theory of Planned Behavior principles and analyzed through Structural Equation Modelling (SEM) to identify the most influential factors in consumers' fashion purchasing behavioral intention (BI).
The results show that consumer perceptions of sustainable fashion differ considerably among sustainable fashion consumers and non-sustainable fashion consumers. For the average consumer, price is still a critical purchasing driver, and, therefore, the perception of sustainable garments as 'expensive' prevents them from engaging in SF. On the other hand, the more sustainably conscious consumers are, the less they buy brand-new, preferring alternatives as second-hand (mainly) or renting. The results of the SEM indicate that for SFC, personal norms, that is, their moral values, have the strongest influence on their behavioral intention to buy SF. Conversely, for NSFC, attitude is the primary indicator of BI; whereas, social norms, that is, perceived pressure from society and peers, exert a negligible influence in their intended behavior, which may indicate that Spain still lacks a strong sustainability culture. These findings endorse and significantly add to the literature on sustainable fashion consumer choice behavior and may help retailers and marketers to create more tailored retailing and communication strategies.
Global Fashion Conference Proceedings , 2020
Statement of the issue/problem, and the relevant background:
The fashion industry has undergone s... more Statement of the issue/problem, and the relevant background:
The fashion industry has undergone several waves of 'sustainability' awareness since the 1960s. In 1996, James A. Roberts wrote, "Once again there is renewed sensitivity toward the environment and toward social consciousness", and, since 2013, after the Rana Plaza disaster in Bangladesh in which over 1'130 fashion workers were killed, we can say again that the global concern about fashion and sustainability has reemerged. Furthermore, as Roberts (1996) assessed, the current sustainability sensitivity focuses on consumer purchase behavior, in contrast to the 1960s and 1970s, when the emphasis went mainly to political solutions.
However, within the literature, limited research investigates the motivations driving consumers of sustainable fashion (Wiederhold and Martinez 2018). Davies et al. (2016) note there is minimal research observing actual buying behavior in sustainable consumption literature, questioning how much we genuinely know about sustainable consumption practice. A better understanding of why and how consumers engage in a particular behavior is needed. To do so, we have opted for a mix-method approach: three focus groups – one focalized on sustainable fashion consumers and the other two dedicated to a broader range of consumers to contrast the purchase behavior between both groups - and a survey with 1'063 respondents to validate the results with a statistically relevant sample. Note that, in the present research, clothing consumption refers to an individual’s clothing acquisition decisions, use and its end of life. It encompasses acquiring, storing, using, maintaining, and discarding clothing products (Winakor 1969). Under the Theory of Planned Behavior (Azjen 1991), we explore the differences in Environmental Concern (EC), Subjective Norm (SN), Perceived Consumer Effectiveness (PCE), and Purchase Intention of sustainable consumers, drawing a comparison with the average consumer through descriptive statistics.
Finally, culture and the social environment play a crucial role in a person's decision making. A cross-national study conducted by Bucic, Harris, and Aril (2012) showed that country of residence shapes decision making on sustainable products. For the present research, we have focused on Spanish consumers and the Spanish fashion market.
In this context, this research aims for the following objectives: 1) To explore consumers' perception and consumption of sustainable fashion in Spain; 2) To identify and portray the sustainable fashion consumers and their purchasing process, drawing a comparison with the average consumer; and 3) To define the barriers and drivers for sustainable consumption, further contributing to the attitude-behavior gap literature and providing guidance for practitioners and decision-makers.
Description of how the issue/problem is approached, methodology:
Combining three focus groups and an online survey, this research, exploratory in nature, delves into consumers' perception and consumption of sustainable fashion in Spain. We try to identify and profile the under-researched segment of sustainable consumers, contrast their behavior with the average consumers, and determine the drivers and barriers for sustainable fashion consumption.
Summary of findings, conclusions and implications for theory and practice:
Based on a sample of 1’063 respondents and 23 focus group participants, the results indicate that sustainable fashion consumers demonstrate greater fashion consciousness, environmental concern, perceived consumer effectiveness, and a higher subjective norm. However, the perception of 'pressure' to buy sustainably comes more from within their moral values than from their inner circle or society overall. This may indicate that Spain still lacks a strong 'sustainable culture'. It also appears that the more sustainably conscious consumers are, the less they buy brand-new, preferring alternatives as second-hand (mainly), and renting. For the average consumers, price is still a critical purchasing driver, giving preference to fast-fashion stores. Respondents indicate that lack of trust in companies and their sustainable statements is the main reason preventing them from buying sustainable products or doing it more often, an issue that asks for further analysis.
IAMCR Conference in Madrid, 2019
The impact of the human being on the environment is a source of concern and debate. The increase ... more The impact of the human being on the environment is a source of concern and debate. The increase of pollution, the decline of natural resources, and the visible risks for human health and well-being have made the environmental issues and the sustainable development a global concern for individuals, industries, and institutions. The implications are not only environmental but moreover economic, social, and cultural (Klein, 2014).
The fashion industry has been pointed out as one of the most environmental pollutants, due to their extensive use of water, chemicals, and CO2 emissions, and it has also been accounted among the sectors with worst working conditions (Rinaldi & Testa, 2015; Farley & Hill, 2014). Hence, sustainable fashion has gained significant interest among marketers, society, and scholars in recent years (Henninger et al., 2016; Joergerns, 2006). The purpose of this research is to analyze how native sustainable fashion brands differentiate themselves from the already established actors in the market. Native brands communicate their commitment to the environment and society holistically, they embrace sustainability in all their actions, from their business model to their interactions with the consumers (Rudrajeet & Gander, 2018; Baldassarre & Campo, 2016; Bocken et al., 2014). Thus, sustainability is its DNA and its main value proposition.
To further understand how native sustainable fashion brands communicate, in this paper we will expose the case of Latitude. Latitude was first born in 2014 as a pioneer project of sustainable fashion in Spain, working as a provider and advisor for other brands. In 2018 it was launched as an independent fashion brand. Their aim is to reshape the fashion market, currently dominated by the so-called Fast Fashion, which implies high volumes of garments consumption and discards. To do so, they have developed a sustainable production chain that begins with sustainable raw materials, 70% natural fibers and the rest recycled materials, and ends with fully transparent communication, to the point that they encourage the consumers to only buy what they need and no more.
Furthermore, Latitude has collaborated in the creation of a social atelier called “Ellas lo bordan”. In this atelier women at risk of exclusion, that is, women who have been victims of all kinds of abuses and have children to raise on their own, are part of the sewing process of garments. The aim is to help further these women to feel empowered and regain a role in society through their work.
Books by Silvia Blas Riesgo
DADUN, 2023
This research aims to understand the attitude-behavior gap in sustainable fashion consumption amo... more This research aims to understand the attitude-behavior gap in sustainable fashion consumption among Spanish consumers, that is, revealing the reasons behind the conundrum between positive attitude and apparent lack of corresponding behavior. In doing so, this research has, on the one hand, approached holistically sustainable fashion consumption by not only considering the acquisition of sustainable fashion products, but also the engagement in new circular models, specifically Collaborative Fashion Consumption, and the participation in the Slow Fashion philosophy. On the
other hand, it has as well approached holistically the attitude-behavior gap by
analyzing not only the influence of psychological traits, but also products attributes and situational variables.
Methodologically, this thesis implemented a mixed-method approach combining qualitative and quantitative techniques. The research was undertaken in three phases. Phase one consisted of a systematic literature review of studies regarding the attitude-behavior gap in sustainable fashion consumption. It served to map past and current trends and delineate the research gap. The second phase was carried out by three focus groups (n=23) combining already sustainable fashion consumers and average consumers, ranging from different ages in order to understand the differences between both kinds of consumers and among generations. Focus-groups data was analyzed through Content Analysis and Means-Ends Chain Analysis, which served to reveal the underlying link between product attributes and consumers' personal values. The last phase consisted of an online survey (n=1,063) to triangulate the data collected in the previous phase and acquire representativeness through a larger sample. In order to reveal the drivers and barriers contributing to the attitude-behavior
gap, the data was analyzed through descriptive statistics, Structural
Equation Modelling (SEM) under the premises of the Theory of Reasoned Action, Choice-Based Conjoint Analysis and Cluster Analysis. Through the Choice-Based Conjoint Analysis, it was possible to understand which attributes are more important for Spanish consumers in the fashion purchase decision-making, while the Cluster Analysis served to identify and profile four different types of consumers.
The output of this thesis assists in filling in the research gap on understanding sustainable fashion consumption and consumers. Precisely the attitude-behavior gap, by considering not only psychological variables, such as attitudes or values, but also external factors (product attributes and situational variables), and by using applied research (choice-based conjoint analysis) with actual market parameters which offers a better approximation of consumer behavior in the under-researched market of Spanish consumers.
Springer, 2019
International Conference on Fashion communication: between tradition and future digital developme... more International Conference on Fashion communication: between tradition and future digital developments FACTUM 2019: Fashion Communication in the Digital Age pp 111-117 | Cite as: Riesgo S.B. (2019) The Consumption Side of Sustainable Fashion: Understanding the Attitude-Behavior Gap Among the Spanish Consumers. In: Kalbaska N., Sádaba T., Cominelli F., Cantoni L. (eds) Fashion Communication in the Digital Age. FACTUM 2019. Springer, Cham
Abstract: Sustainable fashion has gained significant interest among both scholars and society in recent years. Several studies have pointed out that consumers have a positive attitude towards sustainable fashion but fail to translate this attitude into behavior. This has been called the Fashion Paradox. Thus, the currently ongoing research aims to understand to what extent do Spanish consumers care about sustainable fashion, deep into the causes of the attitude-behavior gap among the Spanish consumers and to profile the different kinds of socially responsible consumers considering demographics, attitudes, and motivations. Even though, in recent years, sustainable fashion brands have flourished in the Spanish market and no researches have been conducted to understand the fashion consumers' behavior in Spain. To reach our purpose, we will conduct several focus groups and a survey in which we will apply a conjoint analysis to simulate real marketplace situations and to minimize the social desirability bias. We will use a cluster analysis to profile the different kinds of potential sustainable fashion consumers, and we will compare the results to previous researches from other markets.
Thesis Chapters by Silvia Blas Riesgo
Tesis Doctoral - Universidad de Navarra, 2022
Esta investigación tiene como objetivo comprender las razones que motivan la brecha existente ent... more Esta investigación tiene como objetivo comprender las razones que motivan la brecha existente entre la actitud favorable hacia la moda sostenible y la falta de comportamiento correspondiente por parte del consumidor en España. Para ello, esta investigación ha abordado de manera holística, por un lado, el consumo de moda sostenible, considerando no solo la adquisición de productos de moda sostenible, sino también la apuesta por parte de los consumidores por nuevos modelos circulares, concretamente el Consumo Colaborativo de Moda, y la participación en la filosofía Slow Fashion. Por otro lado, también se ha abordado de forma holística la brecha
actitud-comportamiento al analizar, no solo la influencia de rasgos psicológicos del consumidor, sino también de atributos de los productos y variables situacionales.
Metodológicamente esta tesis adopta un enfoque mixto en el que se combinan técnicas de investigación cualitativas y cuantitativas. La investigación se llevó a cabo en tres fases. La primera fase consistió en una revisión sistemática de la literatura concerniente a la brecha actitud-comportamiento en el consumo de moda sostenible. La segunda fase se llevó a cabo a través de tres grupos focales (n=23) en los que participaron consumidores de moda sostenible y consumidores comunes de diferentes edades con el objetivo de comprender las diferencias entre ambos tipos de
consumidores y entre generaciones. Los resultados se analizaron a través de Análisis de Contenido y Means-Ends Chain Analysis, lo que sirvió para revelar el vínculo subyacente entre los atributos de los productos y los valores personales de los consumidores.
La última fase consistió en una encuesta online (n=1'063) con el objetivo de
triangular los datos recogidos en la fase anterior y adquirir representatividad. Para determinar las motivaciones y las barreras que contribuyen a la brecha entre actitud-comportamiento del consumidor, el análisis de datos se llevó a cabo a través de estadística descriptiva, Structural Equation Modeling (SEM) bajo las premisas de la Teoría de la Acción Razonada, Choice-Based Conjoint Analysis y Cluster Analysis.
Los resultados del Choice-Based Conjoint Analysis revelaron qué atributos son más importantes para los consumidores españoles en la toma de decisiones de compra de moda, mientras que el Cluster Analysis sirvió para identificar y perfilar cuatro tipos diferentes de consumidores.
El resultado de esta tesis contribuye a la comprensión de la brecha entre la actitud y el comportamiento y del consumo y los consumidores de moda sostenible en España. Especialmente, mediante el uso de investigación aplicada (Choice-Based Conjoint Analysis) con parámetros reales de mercado, ofrece una mejor aproximación al comportamiento real de los consumidores en el marco, poco investigado, del mercado de la moda en España.
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Videos by Silvia Blas Riesgo
Papers by Silvia Blas Riesgo
Despite the growing legislation and adoption of sustainable strategies by fashion companies, sustainable fashion remains a niche sector. Consumers declare increasing concern and interest in the topic, but there has not been a corresponding increase in sales, which is known as the attitude-behavior gap. In this regard, collections and museums of sustainable fashion can play a key role in dissemination, education, and awareness, helping to bridge this gap. This research provides a succinct overview of national and international sustainable fashion collections, focusing on the FashionFor Good museum as a case study. It is the only museum in the world dedicated exclusively to sustainable fashion. Methodologically, to address this case study, primary and secondary sources are examined, and lastly, an analysis of the reception of the museum by the public is presented.
Spanish
A pesar de la creciente legislación y adopción deestrategias sostenibles por parte de las empresas, la moda sosteniblesigue siendo un sector de nicho. Los consumidores declaran unacreciente preocupación e interés por el tema, pero no ha habidoun incremento en ventas correspondiente, lo que se conoce comola brecha entre actitud y comportamiento. En este sentido, lascolecciones y museos de moda sostenible pueden jugar un triple rolclave, divulgativo, educativo y de concienciación, con lo que se ayudaa subsanar dicha brecha.La presente investigación aborda de forma sucinta coleccionesde moda sostenible a nivel nacional e internacional, centrándose através de un estudio de caso en el museo Fashion For Good, el únicomuseo dedicado exclusivamente a la moda sostenible en el mundo.Metodológicamente, para abordar este estudio de caso, se examinanfuentes primarias y secundarias y se presenta un análisis de larecepción por parte del público
genuine public debate where the discussion is not limited to
established social actors. The goal is studying how media outlets,
journalists, political parties, candidates, and citizens behave
on Twitter while following the 2015 election night in Spain. A
quantitative analysis has been used, specifically focused on the
activity generated on Twitter during the period of vote counting
(n=201,661 tweets). The data was captured with Tweet Binder,
a web tool that allows the live monitoring of the flow of tweets
related to an event using specific hashtags and keywords. The
results reveal that media outlets are at the center of Twitter activity (representation), but citizens gain high
visibility by using humor in the conversation (participation). Founded on the distinctive characteristics of the
Spanish context, this article contributes to the understanding of the role of Twitter during a live political event.
Conference Presentations by Silvia Blas Riesgo
La presente investigación aborda de forma sucinta colecciones de moda sostenible nacionales e internacionales y se centra en el museo Fashion For Good, que es, hasta la fecha, el único museo enteramente dedicado a la moda sostenible en el mundo. Metodológicamente para abordar este estudio de caso se analizan fuentes primarias – visita al museo, su página web y redes sociales, y los comunicados de prensa del museo – así como fuentes secundarias. Finalmente, se presenta un análisis de la recepción por parte del público. Para ello se analizan 217 recensiones de visitantes al museo redactadas en Google (207) y en TripAdvisor (10). Se realiza un análisis descriptivo: lengua de la reseña, fecha de la visita y calificación del museo; así como un análisis del contenido.
As a methodology, we implemented a mix-method approach consisting of three focus groups (n=25) followed up by a survey with 1’063 respondents to investigate and compare the attitudes, values, and perceptions of risks to engage with slow fashion and/or collaborative fashion consumption among non-sustainable fashion consumers (NSFC) and sustainable fashion consumers (SFC) in Spain. The data gathered from the focus groups was evaluated following a means-end chain (MEC) analysis, which links product attributes with consumers’ personal values. The survey was designed under the Theory of Planned Behavior principles and analyzed through Structural Equation Modelling (SEM) to identify the most influential factors in consumers' fashion purchasing behavioral intention (BI).
The results show that consumer perceptions of sustainable fashion differ considerably among sustainable fashion consumers and non-sustainable fashion consumers. For the average consumer, price is still a critical purchasing driver, and, therefore, the perception of sustainable garments as 'expensive' prevents them from engaging in SF. On the other hand, the more sustainably conscious consumers are, the less they buy brand-new, preferring alternatives as second-hand (mainly) or renting. The results of the SEM indicate that for SFC, personal norms, that is, their moral values, have the strongest influence on their behavioral intention to buy SF. Conversely, for NSFC, attitude is the primary indicator of BI; whereas, social norms, that is, perceived pressure from society and peers, exert a negligible influence in their intended behavior, which may indicate that Spain still lacks a strong sustainability culture. These findings endorse and significantly add to the literature on sustainable fashion consumer choice behavior and may help retailers and marketers to create more tailored retailing and communication strategies.
The fashion industry has undergone several waves of 'sustainability' awareness since the 1960s. In 1996, James A. Roberts wrote, "Once again there is renewed sensitivity toward the environment and toward social consciousness", and, since 2013, after the Rana Plaza disaster in Bangladesh in which over 1'130 fashion workers were killed, we can say again that the global concern about fashion and sustainability has reemerged. Furthermore, as Roberts (1996) assessed, the current sustainability sensitivity focuses on consumer purchase behavior, in contrast to the 1960s and 1970s, when the emphasis went mainly to political solutions.
However, within the literature, limited research investigates the motivations driving consumers of sustainable fashion (Wiederhold and Martinez 2018). Davies et al. (2016) note there is minimal research observing actual buying behavior in sustainable consumption literature, questioning how much we genuinely know about sustainable consumption practice. A better understanding of why and how consumers engage in a particular behavior is needed. To do so, we have opted for a mix-method approach: three focus groups – one focalized on sustainable fashion consumers and the other two dedicated to a broader range of consumers to contrast the purchase behavior between both groups - and a survey with 1'063 respondents to validate the results with a statistically relevant sample. Note that, in the present research, clothing consumption refers to an individual’s clothing acquisition decisions, use and its end of life. It encompasses acquiring, storing, using, maintaining, and discarding clothing products (Winakor 1969). Under the Theory of Planned Behavior (Azjen 1991), we explore the differences in Environmental Concern (EC), Subjective Norm (SN), Perceived Consumer Effectiveness (PCE), and Purchase Intention of sustainable consumers, drawing a comparison with the average consumer through descriptive statistics.
Finally, culture and the social environment play a crucial role in a person's decision making. A cross-national study conducted by Bucic, Harris, and Aril (2012) showed that country of residence shapes decision making on sustainable products. For the present research, we have focused on Spanish consumers and the Spanish fashion market.
In this context, this research aims for the following objectives: 1) To explore consumers' perception and consumption of sustainable fashion in Spain; 2) To identify and portray the sustainable fashion consumers and their purchasing process, drawing a comparison with the average consumer; and 3) To define the barriers and drivers for sustainable consumption, further contributing to the attitude-behavior gap literature and providing guidance for practitioners and decision-makers.
Description of how the issue/problem is approached, methodology:
Combining three focus groups and an online survey, this research, exploratory in nature, delves into consumers' perception and consumption of sustainable fashion in Spain. We try to identify and profile the under-researched segment of sustainable consumers, contrast their behavior with the average consumers, and determine the drivers and barriers for sustainable fashion consumption.
Summary of findings, conclusions and implications for theory and practice:
Based on a sample of 1’063 respondents and 23 focus group participants, the results indicate that sustainable fashion consumers demonstrate greater fashion consciousness, environmental concern, perceived consumer effectiveness, and a higher subjective norm. However, the perception of 'pressure' to buy sustainably comes more from within their moral values than from their inner circle or society overall. This may indicate that Spain still lacks a strong 'sustainable culture'. It also appears that the more sustainably conscious consumers are, the less they buy brand-new, preferring alternatives as second-hand (mainly), and renting. For the average consumers, price is still a critical purchasing driver, giving preference to fast-fashion stores. Respondents indicate that lack of trust in companies and their sustainable statements is the main reason preventing them from buying sustainable products or doing it more often, an issue that asks for further analysis.
The fashion industry has been pointed out as one of the most environmental pollutants, due to their extensive use of water, chemicals, and CO2 emissions, and it has also been accounted among the sectors with worst working conditions (Rinaldi & Testa, 2015; Farley & Hill, 2014). Hence, sustainable fashion has gained significant interest among marketers, society, and scholars in recent years (Henninger et al., 2016; Joergerns, 2006). The purpose of this research is to analyze how native sustainable fashion brands differentiate themselves from the already established actors in the market. Native brands communicate their commitment to the environment and society holistically, they embrace sustainability in all their actions, from their business model to their interactions with the consumers (Rudrajeet & Gander, 2018; Baldassarre & Campo, 2016; Bocken et al., 2014). Thus, sustainability is its DNA and its main value proposition.
To further understand how native sustainable fashion brands communicate, in this paper we will expose the case of Latitude. Latitude was first born in 2014 as a pioneer project of sustainable fashion in Spain, working as a provider and advisor for other brands. In 2018 it was launched as an independent fashion brand. Their aim is to reshape the fashion market, currently dominated by the so-called Fast Fashion, which implies high volumes of garments consumption and discards. To do so, they have developed a sustainable production chain that begins with sustainable raw materials, 70% natural fibers and the rest recycled materials, and ends with fully transparent communication, to the point that they encourage the consumers to only buy what they need and no more.
Furthermore, Latitude has collaborated in the creation of a social atelier called “Ellas lo bordan”. In this atelier women at risk of exclusion, that is, women who have been victims of all kinds of abuses and have children to raise on their own, are part of the sewing process of garments. The aim is to help further these women to feel empowered and regain a role in society through their work.
Books by Silvia Blas Riesgo
other hand, it has as well approached holistically the attitude-behavior gap by
analyzing not only the influence of psychological traits, but also products attributes and situational variables.
Methodologically, this thesis implemented a mixed-method approach combining qualitative and quantitative techniques. The research was undertaken in three phases. Phase one consisted of a systematic literature review of studies regarding the attitude-behavior gap in sustainable fashion consumption. It served to map past and current trends and delineate the research gap. The second phase was carried out by three focus groups (n=23) combining already sustainable fashion consumers and average consumers, ranging from different ages in order to understand the differences between both kinds of consumers and among generations. Focus-groups data was analyzed through Content Analysis and Means-Ends Chain Analysis, which served to reveal the underlying link between product attributes and consumers' personal values. The last phase consisted of an online survey (n=1,063) to triangulate the data collected in the previous phase and acquire representativeness through a larger sample. In order to reveal the drivers and barriers contributing to the attitude-behavior
gap, the data was analyzed through descriptive statistics, Structural
Equation Modelling (SEM) under the premises of the Theory of Reasoned Action, Choice-Based Conjoint Analysis and Cluster Analysis. Through the Choice-Based Conjoint Analysis, it was possible to understand which attributes are more important for Spanish consumers in the fashion purchase decision-making, while the Cluster Analysis served to identify and profile four different types of consumers.
The output of this thesis assists in filling in the research gap on understanding sustainable fashion consumption and consumers. Precisely the attitude-behavior gap, by considering not only psychological variables, such as attitudes or values, but also external factors (product attributes and situational variables), and by using applied research (choice-based conjoint analysis) with actual market parameters which offers a better approximation of consumer behavior in the under-researched market of Spanish consumers.
Abstract: Sustainable fashion has gained significant interest among both scholars and society in recent years. Several studies have pointed out that consumers have a positive attitude towards sustainable fashion but fail to translate this attitude into behavior. This has been called the Fashion Paradox. Thus, the currently ongoing research aims to understand to what extent do Spanish consumers care about sustainable fashion, deep into the causes of the attitude-behavior gap among the Spanish consumers and to profile the different kinds of socially responsible consumers considering demographics, attitudes, and motivations. Even though, in recent years, sustainable fashion brands have flourished in the Spanish market and no researches have been conducted to understand the fashion consumers' behavior in Spain. To reach our purpose, we will conduct several focus groups and a survey in which we will apply a conjoint analysis to simulate real marketplace situations and to minimize the social desirability bias. We will use a cluster analysis to profile the different kinds of potential sustainable fashion consumers, and we will compare the results to previous researches from other markets.
Thesis Chapters by Silvia Blas Riesgo
actitud-comportamiento al analizar, no solo la influencia de rasgos psicológicos del consumidor, sino también de atributos de los productos y variables situacionales.
Metodológicamente esta tesis adopta un enfoque mixto en el que se combinan técnicas de investigación cualitativas y cuantitativas. La investigación se llevó a cabo en tres fases. La primera fase consistió en una revisión sistemática de la literatura concerniente a la brecha actitud-comportamiento en el consumo de moda sostenible. La segunda fase se llevó a cabo a través de tres grupos focales (n=23) en los que participaron consumidores de moda sostenible y consumidores comunes de diferentes edades con el objetivo de comprender las diferencias entre ambos tipos de
consumidores y entre generaciones. Los resultados se analizaron a través de Análisis de Contenido y Means-Ends Chain Analysis, lo que sirvió para revelar el vínculo subyacente entre los atributos de los productos y los valores personales de los consumidores.
La última fase consistió en una encuesta online (n=1'063) con el objetivo de
triangular los datos recogidos en la fase anterior y adquirir representatividad. Para determinar las motivaciones y las barreras que contribuyen a la brecha entre actitud-comportamiento del consumidor, el análisis de datos se llevó a cabo a través de estadística descriptiva, Structural Equation Modeling (SEM) bajo las premisas de la Teoría de la Acción Razonada, Choice-Based Conjoint Analysis y Cluster Analysis.
Los resultados del Choice-Based Conjoint Analysis revelaron qué atributos son más importantes para los consumidores españoles en la toma de decisiones de compra de moda, mientras que el Cluster Analysis sirvió para identificar y perfilar cuatro tipos diferentes de consumidores.
El resultado de esta tesis contribuye a la comprensión de la brecha entre la actitud y el comportamiento y del consumo y los consumidores de moda sostenible en España. Especialmente, mediante el uso de investigación aplicada (Choice-Based Conjoint Analysis) con parámetros reales de mercado, ofrece una mejor aproximación al comportamiento real de los consumidores en el marco, poco investigado, del mercado de la moda en España.
Despite the growing legislation and adoption of sustainable strategies by fashion companies, sustainable fashion remains a niche sector. Consumers declare increasing concern and interest in the topic, but there has not been a corresponding increase in sales, which is known as the attitude-behavior gap. In this regard, collections and museums of sustainable fashion can play a key role in dissemination, education, and awareness, helping to bridge this gap. This research provides a succinct overview of national and international sustainable fashion collections, focusing on the FashionFor Good museum as a case study. It is the only museum in the world dedicated exclusively to sustainable fashion. Methodologically, to address this case study, primary and secondary sources are examined, and lastly, an analysis of the reception of the museum by the public is presented.
Spanish
A pesar de la creciente legislación y adopción deestrategias sostenibles por parte de las empresas, la moda sosteniblesigue siendo un sector de nicho. Los consumidores declaran unacreciente preocupación e interés por el tema, pero no ha habidoun incremento en ventas correspondiente, lo que se conoce comola brecha entre actitud y comportamiento. En este sentido, lascolecciones y museos de moda sostenible pueden jugar un triple rolclave, divulgativo, educativo y de concienciación, con lo que se ayudaa subsanar dicha brecha.La presente investigación aborda de forma sucinta coleccionesde moda sostenible a nivel nacional e internacional, centrándose através de un estudio de caso en el museo Fashion For Good, el únicomuseo dedicado exclusivamente a la moda sostenible en el mundo.Metodológicamente, para abordar este estudio de caso, se examinanfuentes primarias y secundarias y se presenta un análisis de larecepción por parte del público
genuine public debate where the discussion is not limited to
established social actors. The goal is studying how media outlets,
journalists, political parties, candidates, and citizens behave
on Twitter while following the 2015 election night in Spain. A
quantitative analysis has been used, specifically focused on the
activity generated on Twitter during the period of vote counting
(n=201,661 tweets). The data was captured with Tweet Binder,
a web tool that allows the live monitoring of the flow of tweets
related to an event using specific hashtags and keywords. The
results reveal that media outlets are at the center of Twitter activity (representation), but citizens gain high
visibility by using humor in the conversation (participation). Founded on the distinctive characteristics of the
Spanish context, this article contributes to the understanding of the role of Twitter during a live political event.
La presente investigación aborda de forma sucinta colecciones de moda sostenible nacionales e internacionales y se centra en el museo Fashion For Good, que es, hasta la fecha, el único museo enteramente dedicado a la moda sostenible en el mundo. Metodológicamente para abordar este estudio de caso se analizan fuentes primarias – visita al museo, su página web y redes sociales, y los comunicados de prensa del museo – así como fuentes secundarias. Finalmente, se presenta un análisis de la recepción por parte del público. Para ello se analizan 217 recensiones de visitantes al museo redactadas en Google (207) y en TripAdvisor (10). Se realiza un análisis descriptivo: lengua de la reseña, fecha de la visita y calificación del museo; así como un análisis del contenido.
As a methodology, we implemented a mix-method approach consisting of three focus groups (n=25) followed up by a survey with 1’063 respondents to investigate and compare the attitudes, values, and perceptions of risks to engage with slow fashion and/or collaborative fashion consumption among non-sustainable fashion consumers (NSFC) and sustainable fashion consumers (SFC) in Spain. The data gathered from the focus groups was evaluated following a means-end chain (MEC) analysis, which links product attributes with consumers’ personal values. The survey was designed under the Theory of Planned Behavior principles and analyzed through Structural Equation Modelling (SEM) to identify the most influential factors in consumers' fashion purchasing behavioral intention (BI).
The results show that consumer perceptions of sustainable fashion differ considerably among sustainable fashion consumers and non-sustainable fashion consumers. For the average consumer, price is still a critical purchasing driver, and, therefore, the perception of sustainable garments as 'expensive' prevents them from engaging in SF. On the other hand, the more sustainably conscious consumers are, the less they buy brand-new, preferring alternatives as second-hand (mainly) or renting. The results of the SEM indicate that for SFC, personal norms, that is, their moral values, have the strongest influence on their behavioral intention to buy SF. Conversely, for NSFC, attitude is the primary indicator of BI; whereas, social norms, that is, perceived pressure from society and peers, exert a negligible influence in their intended behavior, which may indicate that Spain still lacks a strong sustainability culture. These findings endorse and significantly add to the literature on sustainable fashion consumer choice behavior and may help retailers and marketers to create more tailored retailing and communication strategies.
The fashion industry has undergone several waves of 'sustainability' awareness since the 1960s. In 1996, James A. Roberts wrote, "Once again there is renewed sensitivity toward the environment and toward social consciousness", and, since 2013, after the Rana Plaza disaster in Bangladesh in which over 1'130 fashion workers were killed, we can say again that the global concern about fashion and sustainability has reemerged. Furthermore, as Roberts (1996) assessed, the current sustainability sensitivity focuses on consumer purchase behavior, in contrast to the 1960s and 1970s, when the emphasis went mainly to political solutions.
However, within the literature, limited research investigates the motivations driving consumers of sustainable fashion (Wiederhold and Martinez 2018). Davies et al. (2016) note there is minimal research observing actual buying behavior in sustainable consumption literature, questioning how much we genuinely know about sustainable consumption practice. A better understanding of why and how consumers engage in a particular behavior is needed. To do so, we have opted for a mix-method approach: three focus groups – one focalized on sustainable fashion consumers and the other two dedicated to a broader range of consumers to contrast the purchase behavior between both groups - and a survey with 1'063 respondents to validate the results with a statistically relevant sample. Note that, in the present research, clothing consumption refers to an individual’s clothing acquisition decisions, use and its end of life. It encompasses acquiring, storing, using, maintaining, and discarding clothing products (Winakor 1969). Under the Theory of Planned Behavior (Azjen 1991), we explore the differences in Environmental Concern (EC), Subjective Norm (SN), Perceived Consumer Effectiveness (PCE), and Purchase Intention of sustainable consumers, drawing a comparison with the average consumer through descriptive statistics.
Finally, culture and the social environment play a crucial role in a person's decision making. A cross-national study conducted by Bucic, Harris, and Aril (2012) showed that country of residence shapes decision making on sustainable products. For the present research, we have focused on Spanish consumers and the Spanish fashion market.
In this context, this research aims for the following objectives: 1) To explore consumers' perception and consumption of sustainable fashion in Spain; 2) To identify and portray the sustainable fashion consumers and their purchasing process, drawing a comparison with the average consumer; and 3) To define the barriers and drivers for sustainable consumption, further contributing to the attitude-behavior gap literature and providing guidance for practitioners and decision-makers.
Description of how the issue/problem is approached, methodology:
Combining three focus groups and an online survey, this research, exploratory in nature, delves into consumers' perception and consumption of sustainable fashion in Spain. We try to identify and profile the under-researched segment of sustainable consumers, contrast their behavior with the average consumers, and determine the drivers and barriers for sustainable fashion consumption.
Summary of findings, conclusions and implications for theory and practice:
Based on a sample of 1’063 respondents and 23 focus group participants, the results indicate that sustainable fashion consumers demonstrate greater fashion consciousness, environmental concern, perceived consumer effectiveness, and a higher subjective norm. However, the perception of 'pressure' to buy sustainably comes more from within their moral values than from their inner circle or society overall. This may indicate that Spain still lacks a strong 'sustainable culture'. It also appears that the more sustainably conscious consumers are, the less they buy brand-new, preferring alternatives as second-hand (mainly), and renting. For the average consumers, price is still a critical purchasing driver, giving preference to fast-fashion stores. Respondents indicate that lack of trust in companies and their sustainable statements is the main reason preventing them from buying sustainable products or doing it more often, an issue that asks for further analysis.
The fashion industry has been pointed out as one of the most environmental pollutants, due to their extensive use of water, chemicals, and CO2 emissions, and it has also been accounted among the sectors with worst working conditions (Rinaldi & Testa, 2015; Farley & Hill, 2014). Hence, sustainable fashion has gained significant interest among marketers, society, and scholars in recent years (Henninger et al., 2016; Joergerns, 2006). The purpose of this research is to analyze how native sustainable fashion brands differentiate themselves from the already established actors in the market. Native brands communicate their commitment to the environment and society holistically, they embrace sustainability in all their actions, from their business model to their interactions with the consumers (Rudrajeet & Gander, 2018; Baldassarre & Campo, 2016; Bocken et al., 2014). Thus, sustainability is its DNA and its main value proposition.
To further understand how native sustainable fashion brands communicate, in this paper we will expose the case of Latitude. Latitude was first born in 2014 as a pioneer project of sustainable fashion in Spain, working as a provider and advisor for other brands. In 2018 it was launched as an independent fashion brand. Their aim is to reshape the fashion market, currently dominated by the so-called Fast Fashion, which implies high volumes of garments consumption and discards. To do so, they have developed a sustainable production chain that begins with sustainable raw materials, 70% natural fibers and the rest recycled materials, and ends with fully transparent communication, to the point that they encourage the consumers to only buy what they need and no more.
Furthermore, Latitude has collaborated in the creation of a social atelier called “Ellas lo bordan”. In this atelier women at risk of exclusion, that is, women who have been victims of all kinds of abuses and have children to raise on their own, are part of the sewing process of garments. The aim is to help further these women to feel empowered and regain a role in society through their work.
other hand, it has as well approached holistically the attitude-behavior gap by
analyzing not only the influence of psychological traits, but also products attributes and situational variables.
Methodologically, this thesis implemented a mixed-method approach combining qualitative and quantitative techniques. The research was undertaken in three phases. Phase one consisted of a systematic literature review of studies regarding the attitude-behavior gap in sustainable fashion consumption. It served to map past and current trends and delineate the research gap. The second phase was carried out by three focus groups (n=23) combining already sustainable fashion consumers and average consumers, ranging from different ages in order to understand the differences between both kinds of consumers and among generations. Focus-groups data was analyzed through Content Analysis and Means-Ends Chain Analysis, which served to reveal the underlying link between product attributes and consumers' personal values. The last phase consisted of an online survey (n=1,063) to triangulate the data collected in the previous phase and acquire representativeness through a larger sample. In order to reveal the drivers and barriers contributing to the attitude-behavior
gap, the data was analyzed through descriptive statistics, Structural
Equation Modelling (SEM) under the premises of the Theory of Reasoned Action, Choice-Based Conjoint Analysis and Cluster Analysis. Through the Choice-Based Conjoint Analysis, it was possible to understand which attributes are more important for Spanish consumers in the fashion purchase decision-making, while the Cluster Analysis served to identify and profile four different types of consumers.
The output of this thesis assists in filling in the research gap on understanding sustainable fashion consumption and consumers. Precisely the attitude-behavior gap, by considering not only psychological variables, such as attitudes or values, but also external factors (product attributes and situational variables), and by using applied research (choice-based conjoint analysis) with actual market parameters which offers a better approximation of consumer behavior in the under-researched market of Spanish consumers.
Abstract: Sustainable fashion has gained significant interest among both scholars and society in recent years. Several studies have pointed out that consumers have a positive attitude towards sustainable fashion but fail to translate this attitude into behavior. This has been called the Fashion Paradox. Thus, the currently ongoing research aims to understand to what extent do Spanish consumers care about sustainable fashion, deep into the causes of the attitude-behavior gap among the Spanish consumers and to profile the different kinds of socially responsible consumers considering demographics, attitudes, and motivations. Even though, in recent years, sustainable fashion brands have flourished in the Spanish market and no researches have been conducted to understand the fashion consumers' behavior in Spain. To reach our purpose, we will conduct several focus groups and a survey in which we will apply a conjoint analysis to simulate real marketplace situations and to minimize the social desirability bias. We will use a cluster analysis to profile the different kinds of potential sustainable fashion consumers, and we will compare the results to previous researches from other markets.
actitud-comportamiento al analizar, no solo la influencia de rasgos psicológicos del consumidor, sino también de atributos de los productos y variables situacionales.
Metodológicamente esta tesis adopta un enfoque mixto en el que se combinan técnicas de investigación cualitativas y cuantitativas. La investigación se llevó a cabo en tres fases. La primera fase consistió en una revisión sistemática de la literatura concerniente a la brecha actitud-comportamiento en el consumo de moda sostenible. La segunda fase se llevó a cabo a través de tres grupos focales (n=23) en los que participaron consumidores de moda sostenible y consumidores comunes de diferentes edades con el objetivo de comprender las diferencias entre ambos tipos de
consumidores y entre generaciones. Los resultados se analizaron a través de Análisis de Contenido y Means-Ends Chain Analysis, lo que sirvió para revelar el vínculo subyacente entre los atributos de los productos y los valores personales de los consumidores.
La última fase consistió en una encuesta online (n=1'063) con el objetivo de
triangular los datos recogidos en la fase anterior y adquirir representatividad. Para determinar las motivaciones y las barreras que contribuyen a la brecha entre actitud-comportamiento del consumidor, el análisis de datos se llevó a cabo a través de estadística descriptiva, Structural Equation Modeling (SEM) bajo las premisas de la Teoría de la Acción Razonada, Choice-Based Conjoint Analysis y Cluster Analysis.
Los resultados del Choice-Based Conjoint Analysis revelaron qué atributos son más importantes para los consumidores españoles en la toma de decisiones de compra de moda, mientras que el Cluster Analysis sirvió para identificar y perfilar cuatro tipos diferentes de consumidores.
El resultado de esta tesis contribuye a la comprensión de la brecha entre la actitud y el comportamiento y del consumo y los consumidores de moda sostenible en España. Especialmente, mediante el uso de investigación aplicada (Choice-Based Conjoint Analysis) con parámetros reales de mercado, ofrece una mejor aproximación al comportamiento real de los consumidores en el marco, poco investigado, del mercado de la moda en España.