Papers by Diego Semerene
International Journal of Fashion Studies, 2024
Aiming to disrupt the way fashion studies is developed-often from a Eurocentric approach and with... more Aiming to disrupt the way fashion studies is developed-often from a Eurocentric approach and within rigid disciplinary, methodological and social boundaries-this Special Issue invites different scholars to present their own way of studying and exploring fashion, but also to make their familiar methods strange, reassessing what fashion means and what it means to do fashion research in the first place. Promoting an interdisciplinary dialogue, the articles in this Special Issue show how fashion studies would benefit from 'bending' existing methodological boundaries and blending cross-disciplinary methodologies, conceptual orientations, objects, ideas, forms, subjects and questions in their epistemological approach. We hope that the curation, organization and general assemblage of the texts give rise to the intellectual alchemy of unpredictable encounters: conversations, clashes and contradictions. From article to article, readers will encounter different ways of doing research on and through fashion and be inspired to imagine more divergent epistemologies of fashion.
International journal of fashion studies, Apr 1, 2024
International Journal of Fashion Studies, 2024
The T-girl is a trans feminine subject whose trans-ness is embodied sartorially in controlled env... more The T-girl is a trans feminine subject whose trans-ness is embodied sartorially in controlled environments for a short amount of time. Her trans-ness is not socially visible, her existential possibilities have accompanied the imbrication of digitality in everyday life and she escapes well-acknowledged trans feminine categories such as the Latin American travesti or the trans woman writ large. The T-girl is yet to be rigorously theorized. In this auto-theoretical psychoanalytic inquiry I propose to theorize her alongside her lovers by placing the sartorial as the de facto object of desire between them. The methodology involves culling from personal sartorial- sexual experience as well as the language around clothes found in private messages sent by trans-attracted and straight-identified men to the author, a T-girl. What does such an intimate archive tell us about the way the trans subject negotiates her desire with and through the other? Their sartorial exchanges serve as unprec- edented insight into the intrapsychic mechanisms a trans subject deploys to forge a position for herself where the sartorial all but replaces the anatomical as the slip- pery guarantor of gender. I articulate the function of clothing in conjuring a trans- ness addressed to a ‘other’ interpellated to ratify the (trans-)gendering process. This turns out to be a rather primary dynamic that founds the speaking subject as such. And yet, the T-girl and her lovers may end up getting more than what they bargained for from their sartorial-sexual encounter. What becomes clear is the fundamental function of clothes not just to render the T-girl girl, but as exhilarat- ing signifiers in the written and oral exchanges between the T-girl and her lovers. Particularly for the lovers themselves, who can be quick to slip from the position of the subject who enjoys feminine clothing in the other to that of the subject who enjoys wearing such clothing themselves.
Research Center for Material Culture, 2024
Reflections on objects different straight-identified and trans-attracted lovers have left behind,... more Reflections on objects different straight-identified and trans-attracted lovers have left behind, and which I kept in a shoebox. There is nothing special about these objects per se but they illuminate the “potential for condensing entire sexual histories”(Dean 2009, 125). I call them embarrassing because they are uncomfortable. They fit nowhere and no one wants them. Their
owners never cared to get them back. Their stories could never
be corroborated because their stories are unsayable, unwritten,
unfathomable. These objects are embarrassing because displaying
them would cause the T-girl mortification, as she is, by design,
undisplayable herself. Unless she wants to be the object of laughter
and other kinds of brutality. Unless she wants to be exposed or
sacrificed. Whereas what the T-girl wants is to be fucked—because
she cannot be loved.
Psychoanalysis, Culture & Society , 2021
This article reframes the kinship between all liquids (from the mother’s milk to a lover’s sperm)... more This article reframes the kinship between all liquids (from the mother’s milk to a lover’s sperm) as a source of queer dissidence that becomes particularly relevant in times of normative data-flows, the necro-politicization of the ocean, and social media’s injunction of permanent availability. Following Gaston Bachelard’s general theory of material imagination, liquidness appears as the only matter antithetical to digitality, hardware’s most threatening substance, and a reparative metaphor for contemporary anxieties. Through a queer psychoanalytic understanding of matter that harks back to the subject’s earliest experiences, the argument ultimately anchors itself in the figure of the creampie, the ejaculate excess that oozes out of a subject’s orifices after coitus, providing liquid evidence of a fantasy of fulfillment that is otherwise perpetually deferred by the digital economy.
The essay culls from classical texts and personal experiences of libertine intimacy with stranger... more The essay culls from classical texts and personal experiences of libertine intimacy with strangers to address age-old academic blind spots regarding group sex as a recurring fantasy and sexual practice. What is brought forth is a Freudian and Lacan-ian analysis of the relationship between contemporary desire and digitality through " the gangbang " as articulated on digital platforms. The focus is on digitally-assisted gang-bangs involving a transvestite and several heterosexually identified males, and what such events reveal about digital media's and heterosexuality's demands. The author argues that this sexual configuration is a re-enactment of " the great misdeed " , which Freud recounts in Totem and Taboo as the mythic primordial killing of the Father by the band of brothers. This symbolic occasion is described as the genesis of social organization and re-emerges as a form of mourning the disappearance of the fleshly body as new media turn it into digital code. Such a codification of the body awakens anxieties around the fictitious conflation between penis and phallus. In the face of the digital, man outsources his phallic power, which is suddenly required to be represented corporally at all times, to a virtually organized multitude that is willing to sacrifice freedom in the name of the group, and the legitimation of hetero-masculinity that it can presumably grant. The gangbang also appears as a digitally mediated opportunity for old fantasies of aggression and expiation to articulate themselves without putting the white male heterosexual body on the line.
Abstract: This essay explores digital technology 's enabling so-called "gay men " to make contact... more Abstract: This essay explores digital technology 's enabling so-called "gay men " to make contact (sexual and otherwise) with heterosexually identified males through cross-dressing. This phenomenon, which the digital exacerbates, exposes a loophole in heterosexual logic, where the object is revealed to be a semblance, not a finite and neatly gendered materiality. The essay deploys " trans, " then, not as a bounded identity category one might transition into like a final destination, but as a technology for pleasure to where one can transit back and forth through digital mediation. The rise and ubiquity of cruising digital platforms (Craigslist's Casual Encounters, Plenty of Fish, Fetlife, and OkCupid) has enabled " transgender " to be appropriated as a pleasure-making tool that circumvents social doxa regarding the supposed stability of gender, sexuality, sexual practices and the prescribed objects of desire associated with them. As presumably gay men increasingly dress up as women for sexual purposes, posting hookup ads seeking straight men, and presumably heterosexual men catch themselves seduced by them, the limits of sexual identities and their related practices get tested, expanded, trespassed, and rendered porous. The essay weaves together queer theory, psychoanalysis, and autobiographical accounts to investigate the very porosities between identity categories that the digital makes visible and available for play, and to experiment with the urgent role psychoanalysis may have to play in understanding new sexual/existential practices.
Lacuna: uma revista de psicanálise, 2022
Nesse artigo sobreponho o fenômeno Xuxa às novas utilizações da figura, e do corpo, da criança na... more Nesse artigo sobreponho o fenômeno Xuxa às novas utilizações da figura, e do corpo, da criança nas redes sociais. Ao contraste da terra plana e achatada da estética TikTok, argumento que Xuxa forneceu um espaço multi-dimensional, polifônico e seguro, uma lacuna orgásmica, para certas crianças se desidentificarem com o universo masculino num contexto onde fazê-lo em público, fora de seu planeta, seria letal.
Social Text online, 2020
Text on Brazil’s “necropolitical melodrama” for Social Text online: Society for Sick Societies. ... more Text on Brazil’s “necropolitical melodrama” for Social Text online: Society for Sick Societies. That is, the vertical and horizontal architecture of the country’s deadly class system, which preemptively scripted the path of the coronavirus to use the superrich as vectors and the superpoor as targets that don’t matter and don’t count. The argument is built around the death of Miguel, a five-year-old black Brazilian boy who fell from the top of the luxury building where his mother, a maid, worked, due to the negligence of her white employers.
The essay stages its argument at a Brazilian parking lot utilized for what Tim Dean calls "aimles... more The essay stages its argument at a Brazilian parking lot utilized for what Tim Dean calls "aimless" cruising, which we may presume erased by the ubiquitous pragmatism of digital technologies. The site becomes a blueprint for understanding what the digital does to desire, and what desire does to the digital.
Drawing from classic psychoanalytic texts (Freud, Lacan, Pontalis) and recent Queer Theory work (... more Drawing from classic psychoanalytic texts (Freud, Lacan, Pontalis) and recent Queer Theory work (Butler, Love, Halberstam), this essay attempts to recover the queerness inherent to psychoanalytic theory as a way to resolve the fundamentally American resistance to methodologies that place the unconscious at their forefront.
This paper explores the relationship between the digital desiring subject of our time and his/her... more This paper explores the relationship between the digital desiring subject of our time and his/her digital (sexual) gadgets as a fundamentally infantile and ritualized way of managing the death drive. The paper recognizes the 21st century as a post-cinematic era in which the subject's relationship to media coincides with his/her relationship to desire: perennially excessive, marred by anxiety, and difficult to articulate. It also suggests, through a close reading of the movement of images in online sexual economies that despite the widely available technology of moving images, the digital subject chooses the still image as a mode of representation over the too-revealing movement of the moving image in his/her transactions of desire-which may or may not amount to a physical encounter, though it certainly produces endless, and endlessly deferred, impressions of its possibility. Like a masturbatory prosthesis capable of turning the supposed continuity of time (in which each instant dies to give way to the next) into the circular repetition of the neurotic (in which each time feels like the first time), the digital serves as world-making device for the subject to stage old modes of being that feel very new, and newer at each repetition. The still image traps or seizes that which the moving image lets out or leaks much in the same way the notion of the category contains, or maims, the chaotic/oceanic/excessive queerness of Desire.
Un grand nombre d’hommes jusqu’ici nommés « gais » se travestissent dans la sphère privée pour po... more Un grand nombre d’hommes jusqu’ici nommés « gais » se travestissent dans la sphère privée pour poster des annonces sexuelles sur Internet en cherchant les hommes « hétéros . » Par cette recherche, les limites des identités sexuelles, ainsi que des objets liées à elles, sont testées, étirées, re-signifiées et même ridiculisées. Grâce au numérique, une rencontre « trans-orientationnelle » se produit, ce qui ouvre la porte à une nouvelle façon de penser et de pratiquer la différence sexuelle. C’est un rapport fondé sur le semblant, sur la multiplicité, sur l’objet de désir comme ses alentours. La matérialité du corps apparaît comme toile, comme voile, comme écran – pas comme substance. Ce phénomène révèle aussi une faille dans la logique hétérosexuelle. Lorsque l'objet se dénonce comme un semblant potentiellement divorcé de son référent matériel, ces deux figures (la travesti bâtie par le numérique et cet homme hétéro éveillé par le numérique qui la désire) se mettent en contact, se touchent, se baisent, se découvrent, s’utilisent, s’aiment. Qu’est-ce que la jouissance de la travesti peut dire d’un système symbolique et social qui dénie son existence et sa valeur?
CM: Communication and Media, 2016
This is the first-ever special issue of a media and communication journal that addresses question... more This is the first-ever special issue of a media and communication journal that addresses questions of subjectivity, digital media and the Internet with a focus on psychoanalytic theory.
The contributing authors seek to reassess and reinvigorate psychoanalytic thinking in media and communication studies. They undertake this reassessment with a particular focus on the question of what psychoanalytic concepts, theories and modes of inquiry can contribute to the study of contemporary digital media.
The collection features a broad range of psychoanalytic approaches - from Freudian, via Kleinian and relational, to Lacanian and Jungian - and covers a wide range of issues - from the uses (and abuses) of the mobile phone and other digital devices, the circulation of traumatising images and anxiety-inducing tracking apps, via hysteric feminist discourses, digital fetishes and the exploitation of YouTube celebrities, to the meaning of the gangbang in a priapistic media culture and this culture's emptying-out of meaning towards its climax in a cosmic spasm...
Book Chapters by Diego Semerene
The Routledge Companion to Fashion Studies, 2021
Masculinity has historically been associated with agency over objecthood. Through a history of sa... more Masculinity has historically been associated with agency over objecthood. Through a history of sartorial, muscular, and pharmacological manipulation, we see the presumably cisgender white male body “recut” and “recast” (Hollander) as a necessary departure from organic reality and a never-ending denial of its materiality, and penetrability. If such men have experienced a comfortable place of omniscience, largely outside the position of object of visual inspection of feminine bodies and bodies of color, tailoring kinship through sartorial semblance for so many centuries, what strategies do men forge when they must become objects-to-be-updated within digital networks (Chun) much like bodies deemed female? Reaching back into the history of the male suit allows us to see how men’s modus operandi for disavowing the fragility of all human bodies, and naturalizing sexual difference, has stayed consistent for centuries. How does the presumably cis-gender white male body, then, manage to inhabit digital networks and survive yet again when such networks require male bodies to make themselves seen? This chapter argues that social media platforms, particularly Instagram, give rise to a new mode of phallic engineering that helps men not just maintain their claims of white cis-gender heterosexual masculinity but also thrive in an environment that requires the repeated courting of the other’s gaze.
Pandemic Media, 2020
The argument of this chapter is the shift from sex through bodies to sex through words, which the... more The argument of this chapter is the shift from sex through bodies to sex through words, which the first COVID-19 lockdown in the UK triggers. This shift is situated within a context of “autistic sex” which precedes the pandemic crisis, where the human subject doesn’t recognize the subjectivity of the other in their attempt to enjoy sex. The forms that sexual (non-)encounters must take during lockdown reminds us of the role of fantasy, supported and enacted by the apparatus of the signifier, or writing, in bringing forth pleasure for the subject—particularly in sparing them from the inevitably unsatisfactory encounter with the fleshly other. When crises make certain enjoyments impossible, we may thus rediscover the fundamental function of the signifier—whose materiality can be more reliant, and malleable in obeying the shapes dictated by one’s fantasy, than that of the body
In RAW: PReP, Pedagogy, and the Politics of Barebacking. Edited by Ricky Varghese (Regina: University of Regina Press) , 2019
"A Doll Has No Holes: On The Queerness of Brazilian Children in Xuxa" looks tthe Brazilian televi... more "A Doll Has No Holes: On The Queerness of Brazilian Children in Xuxa" looks tthe Brazilian television megastar of Latin America in the 80s and 90s to re-frame the current Brazilian symbolic, socio- political and financial crisis. The little academic work produced around Xuxa has reduced her to the perfect embodiment of the ideals of race, gender, citizenship, class and modernity in post-colonial and post-dictatorship Brazil. Diego Semerene Costa (re-)takes the point of view of a queer child living in Brazil in the 1980s to put forth the concept of “ludic usurpation” and argue that Xuxa’s world actually made room for queerness by masquerading itself as a celebration of all things normative. Originally published In 'Children, Sexuality and Sexualization,' Edited by Emma Renold, Jessica Ringrose, and R. Danielle Egan (London: Palgrave UK, 2015): 259-273.
The paper asks how digital technology can work as a perverse interface for managing difference th... more The paper asks how digital technology can work as a perverse interface for managing difference through fantasies of male blackness in newly "effective" ways. How is phallic labor outsourced to black masculinity in the digital age? How does blackness function as a prosthetic guarantor of the (white heterosexual) Symbolic through the pornographic?
Book Reviews by Diego Semerene
Psychoanalysis, Culture & Society, 2022
One of the very few contemporary scholars in media studies to engage with psychoanalytic theory p... more One of the very few contemporary scholars in media studies to engage with psychoanalytic theory prolifically and unapologetically, Jacob Johanssen centers his new book, Fantasy, Online Misogyny and the Manosphere: Male Bodies of Dis/ inhibition, on the ways masculinity tries to not just survive the vicissitudes brought to bear by the digital, but benefit from them. Fantasy and violence drive this most masculine of feats. They take the shape of extremist online communities and political configurations built around anti-feminine and anti-feminist discourse, rightwing kinship, sexual disavowal, homoerotic modes of paranoia, and a panoply of vindictive responses to rejection (i.e. incels, or involuntarily celibate men). Johanssen illuminates how the very subjects who spent centuries relegating objects on screens-painted, photographed, filmed, or otherwise-to the domain of otherness for the sake of political and erotic enjoyment, have quickly managed to respond to the demands of digital networks-for the on-screen appearance and ad nauseam circulation of even male bodies-in a way that rigs such systems into a manosphere. Although the occupation of digital networks by an army of viciously infantile soldiers is, by now, a palpable given, Johanssen uses psychoanalysis to do what psychoanalysis does best: providing a language to a malaise that would be even more malignant if left unarticulated, or articulated without the unconscious at its center. The manosphere appears in the book as a domain where the most poisonous brands of subjectivity and nationhood meet. And where the ecstatic encounter between reality-building fantasies-walls, enemies and one's many brothers (''a machine-like totality'')-can be staged (p. 42). We know that man's way of losing more generally, and losing power specifically, often comes in the form of compensation from which he emerges having actually made a profit: financial, symbolic, or imaginary. We have known this since Freud's
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Papers by Diego Semerene
owners never cared to get them back. Their stories could never
be corroborated because their stories are unsayable, unwritten,
unfathomable. These objects are embarrassing because displaying
them would cause the T-girl mortification, as she is, by design,
undisplayable herself. Unless she wants to be the object of laughter
and other kinds of brutality. Unless she wants to be exposed or
sacrificed. Whereas what the T-girl wants is to be fucked—because
she cannot be loved.
The contributing authors seek to reassess and reinvigorate psychoanalytic thinking in media and communication studies. They undertake this reassessment with a particular focus on the question of what psychoanalytic concepts, theories and modes of inquiry can contribute to the study of contemporary digital media.
The collection features a broad range of psychoanalytic approaches - from Freudian, via Kleinian and relational, to Lacanian and Jungian - and covers a wide range of issues - from the uses (and abuses) of the mobile phone and other digital devices, the circulation of traumatising images and anxiety-inducing tracking apps, via hysteric feminist discourses, digital fetishes and the exploitation of YouTube celebrities, to the meaning of the gangbang in a priapistic media culture and this culture's emptying-out of meaning towards its climax in a cosmic spasm...
Book Chapters by Diego Semerene
Book Reviews by Diego Semerene
owners never cared to get them back. Their stories could never
be corroborated because their stories are unsayable, unwritten,
unfathomable. These objects are embarrassing because displaying
them would cause the T-girl mortification, as she is, by design,
undisplayable herself. Unless she wants to be the object of laughter
and other kinds of brutality. Unless she wants to be exposed or
sacrificed. Whereas what the T-girl wants is to be fucked—because
she cannot be loved.
The contributing authors seek to reassess and reinvigorate psychoanalytic thinking in media and communication studies. They undertake this reassessment with a particular focus on the question of what psychoanalytic concepts, theories and modes of inquiry can contribute to the study of contemporary digital media.
The collection features a broad range of psychoanalytic approaches - from Freudian, via Kleinian and relational, to Lacanian and Jungian - and covers a wide range of issues - from the uses (and abuses) of the mobile phone and other digital devices, the circulation of traumatising images and anxiety-inducing tracking apps, via hysteric feminist discourses, digital fetishes and the exploitation of YouTube celebrities, to the meaning of the gangbang in a priapistic media culture and this culture's emptying-out of meaning towards its climax in a cosmic spasm...