I was working on a paper pieced project this weekend and thought I'd show my method. After taking classes from some of the nationally well-known teachers and a few locals, I put together a scheme that works well for me. My tale is how I do it and not meant as beginning instruction or a tutorial. Yes, it's my story and I'm sticking to it.
First off, I take the patterns, perhaps 3-6 (depending on the paper and pattern) and pin them together. Make sure they are stacked well--hold up to the light and double check. Then pin the stack together.
Using a Jeans or larger needle in your sewing machine without thread and bobbin, stitch on the lines--it doesn't need to be exact. This is where I use a long stitch. Below you can see the holes poked in the paper. This works as a guide on both sides of the paper and for a simple pattern, it takes a few seconds.
The perforations are not only a guide but make the paper fold back easier. Below you can see how I have used the "holes" for a guide for placing my first fabrics. They rest right sides together one quarter inch over the line. You should be able to feel the holes made by the needle through the fabric. Pin, change your needle to whatever you usually use and stitch. When sewing on the line, use a small stitch. I set my machine at 1.80.
As with most quilt blocks when there are many, chain piecing speeds things along and saves thread. However, I do like Peggy Martin's method of strip piecing as well.
Open the fabrics and press. Then fold back the paper on the perforations and trim one quarter inch beyond the fold.
Now the next piece of fabric can be added.
There are several different papers that can be used. If the pattern is not too detailed, plain copy paper is fine for me. When tiny pieces are involved, I prefer Carol Doak's paper for easy removal. I've not tried vellum but understand having some visibility is worthy. There are lots of papers on the market. You just have to try and see what works best for you.
Marcy
First off, I take the patterns, perhaps 3-6 (depending on the paper and pattern) and pin them together. Make sure they are stacked well--hold up to the light and double check. Then pin the stack together.
Using a Jeans or larger needle in your sewing machine without thread and bobbin, stitch on the lines--it doesn't need to be exact. This is where I use a long stitch. Below you can see the holes poked in the paper. This works as a guide on both sides of the paper and for a simple pattern, it takes a few seconds.
The perforations are not only a guide but make the paper fold back easier. Below you can see how I have used the "holes" for a guide for placing my first fabrics. They rest right sides together one quarter inch over the line. You should be able to feel the holes made by the needle through the fabric. Pin, change your needle to whatever you usually use and stitch. When sewing on the line, use a small stitch. I set my machine at 1.80.
As with most quilt blocks when there are many, chain piecing speeds things along and saves thread. However, I do like Peggy Martin's method of strip piecing as well.
Open the fabrics and press. Then fold back the paper on the perforations and trim one quarter inch beyond the fold.
Now the next piece of fabric can be added.
There are several different papers that can be used. If the pattern is not too detailed, plain copy paper is fine for me. When tiny pieces are involved, I prefer Carol Doak's paper for easy removal. I've not tried vellum but understand having some visibility is worthy. There are lots of papers on the market. You just have to try and see what works best for you.
Thanks for stopping by.
Marcy