Showing posts with label sewing_coat. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sewing_coat. Show all posts

Monday, November 3, 2014

Vogue 8930

I sewed a coat. It is a simple single layer coat. The pattern was Vogue 8930. I made it reversible too.

For almost a month, what I wrote in my blog hop has kept me thinking about malaise kind of conflict between my standpoint on sewing written in the post and the rest of my self. I've been particularly trapped in one subject (it is so silly to be trapped in what oneself wrote, I wouldn't be able to stop laughing cynically if I am cheerful enough now...) it is about the thought on my sewing skill. I had noticed that I had some inconsistency within myself on this issue for several years. After all, writing blog hop post broke my balloon of concealed problems and I couldn't restore as it was before.

This coat was born after my introspection on the issue. This following long muttering is completely personal and contains nothing useful as a sewing reference. Please scroll down to the second three stars(***) if you simply like to check the link to the pattern and some other small info about the coat. That would help you!



***
In the blog hop post, I wrote "If my stitches are straighter than ZARA's, I pass the test", and it was not a lie. By the sentence, it must have seemed to the readers that I didn't care about immaculate sewing at all, but I have to say it was not the case either. Actually I always do care to sew 'well' a lot. Not completely, but I have been a bit dishonest about it in public for years. I wrote it in that way presumably because I wanted to avoid making the readers think that I was one of those who would believe in the predominance of neatest stitches when evaluating garments. I didn't make further explanations in the post though. I had a mixed emotion on having neat seams in my garments, as you will hopefully know below.

There are some people who are fascinated by the garments with neatest stitches, most complicated constructions and most sophisticated techniques. I completely agree with them that beautiful executions give garments a class and the best garments will never be accomplished without them. But unfortunately I've regularly witnessed that there are people who believe in neat stitch supremacy and they tend to look down on other garments because of wonky stitches, boring constructions and other unsatisfactory sewing elements to their standard, too. There I feel unnecessary assumptions of superiority of something, and it makes me uncomfortable. My opinion is that making own garments is not a competition. Everything can be successful including imperfect projects as long as talking about hobby sewing. Better technique is nice but trying to master neat stitches doesn't include shaming others' stitches. I think comparing excellence of executions is too easy, or too simple, to appreciate/depreciate any garment. I don't know how much high level we have to reach before feeling 100% proud of our techniques and who drew the standard line between bad and good, anyway.

Feeling weirdly sensitive to this issue for so long, I became pretending to have no problem with zero improvement in my sewing as if I wished to prove that garments that were made by a less skilled person could be reasonably fine and she could live in them without embarrassed too much. As if I wished to prove there could be many more factors to make garments lovely other than swing techniques. It is difficult for me to explain this silly logic even in my mother tongue, and I'm sorry if you get confused, it's all my fault to have buttons buttoned up incorrectly. I'd say I kinda wished to stay amateur to defend imperfectly stitched self-made beloved garments from being ridiculed by imaginary someone, by setting my personal example, if I was possible. Ah, and finally, the blog hop gave me a chance to understand my logic was way too silly and I had to reconsider. I have unconsciously wished neatness in my sewing but couldn't admit it. I guess it was a little period of rebelliousness in my sewing life. It was childish to feel too uncomfortable with other's opinion. It was silly to be dishonest about motivation to learn.

So I grew a bit, and regretted my laziness and sins about being pretentious on this matter. I reconsidered many things, became a new human, and decided to make a fresh start with sincerer attitude to my hobby. I will try hard to improve my sewing skill openly, like everybody else does. I will try to choose projects that would be particularly good for mastering skills too. I won't laugh at others' stitches but I will do at mine when they're wonky and also when they look brilliant. In the end (or maybe in the first place), skills and experiences are very important factors to make a lovely garment, that's for sure. I still don't believe in supremacy of stitches too much, but I think it's OK as much as everybody else thinks differently.



***
So I made Vogue 8930 in a double-faced plain wool fabric. For the first step as a reborn hobby sewist, I deliberately chose it to learn how to sew double-faced fabrics that was one of completely new techniques to me. I have to say it was so hard to get cleaner seams! I confirmed that I needed many more experiences and practices to be better at sewing, and I felt that it was exciting. And I felt I was honest about it, finally.

 

I referred some tutorials for executing seams and edges in this coat. You can see better explanations here and here, for instances. Please have visits at those links to get an idea for what I did, and you will know that it needs much effort and neat hand sewing to get a single garment done. It took very long for me, and it was great to have such a meditative session after the rebelliousness period.

Apart from special executions for double-faced fabric, I followed the instructions except the pockets. Since the fabric was double-faced, I wanted to check how it would look on me from both sides and check if I could use it as a reversible garment. I wanted to have pockets in it, definitely, but was yet to know which kind of pockets would be good until the garment was done. I once completed the coat without pockets, and applied them on the whole coat. It wasn't a great idea after all (of course not), because this garment was particularly huge and heavy to move under the sewing machine. But it was a laughable experience and I somehow made it done. It has four patch pockets altogether, two in each side in a completely reversible manner with least top stitches in both sides.

The coat is very warm because of the huge collar. It is also great since this can be worn over bulky sweaters and dolman sleeves without any jam-packing of sleeves. My color choice may have been a bit unusual, but I take it funky.

I reconsidered many other things as well. I wish that they will influence on my future projects and on my blog(s) in a good way, eventually.

can be worn with smaller collar.
this way it is particularly useful to hide away. pretty much invisible.


=====
pattern: vogue 8930
reversible garment. alterations in pockets.
I sewed view B in size S (I am 166cm/5'5")

fabric: double faced wool fabric, plain, warm, slightly heavy.
148cm wide x 2.6m long
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Wishing you happy moments!

Love,
yoshimi








hey, it's reversible!



Thursday, September 19, 2013

season's transition

Hi!
I recently sewed a coat and a pair of knit pants for autumn. Yay for the cooler weather!


The coat.
The fabric I used for the coat is something very special, as well as somewhat peculiar, I describe. It was basically a double layered fabric which had a slightly sparkling nylon organza covered (totally and throughly glued) over a base fabric of blue-ish plaid stiff polyester that would remind you of parachutes. The fabric is meant to be soaked in the water after sewing, for the purpose of washing away the glue, and then is expected to have separate layers of organza and plaid in its end products.


Though it was very stiff like a cardboard before washing(no exaggerations), I thought it would make a pretty jacket/coat that I can use as a windbreaker. A pretty plaid coat fully covered with sheer organza for windbreaking-purpose! It sounded pretty exciting to me.


The construction of the coat was not so difficult and done quite smoothly despite of the cardboard quality. I used my usual pattern for very plain boxy half coat, and just omitted the collar and lining to make it even simpler. I think I could have those sleeves shortened by about 10cm/4inch, design-wise. Having said that, I'm wearing it with rolling up the sleeve hems as in the pictures and will be doing so whole this autumn anyway. I'd leave the sleeves as they are, since the contrasting piping in my rolled-up sleeve hems may amuse people's eyes by the whiteness.

My previous coats from the same pattern can be also seen in this post.

The pants.

I sewed Anita pant from Tessuti for the first time. These were a wearable muslin, like all my first makes are. I wanted to know how they would fit on me, and I think I know it now. Though I have a couple of small issues to remember, I'm pretty happy with this pair, which I made in a heavy denim jersey in indigo blue. (It was difficult for me to find the correct length of the elastic band for waistline. I had to try three times before finding my snug fit, and I'd write down the number for the next time so that I don't have to cry any more. And also I had a minor problem with the balance of front and back crotches.I'd take some 5cm/2in from front crotch and leave the back crotch as the pattern is, next time.)

I really like the pattern, because these pants are quite pants, but not leggings! Some are really good at pulling off leggings, but I usually prefer pants on me and I'm so loving this pattern from this point of view. I hope you can see that they are pants but not very leggings in this photo below.


It was very difficult for me to take the pictures that could show their texture and such. Failed, I think. (But I'm not so unhappy. Because you have inexhaustible imagination to see what you would like to see, don't you.)


That's all for now.
Have a great day!!

love,
yoshimi

=====
The coat.
pattern: 3023(boxy half coat: discontinued) from anneecotton*, size 40(down graded to 38)
collar and lining were omitted.
most hems were executed with contrasting bias piping.

fabric: polyester/nylon blend. very synthetic. stiff. mid bodied, not very flexible, light, fairly creaseless. consists of a plaid polyester plain woven fabric and a silver-white sheer nylon organza.

The pants.
pattern: Anita ponti pant from Tessuti (PDF)
shortened the crotch height by following the lines that pattern indicates, and shortened the legs by about 3cm as well.

fabric: cotton denim knit fabric. dark indigo blue. stretches moderately. thick. hard. heavy.
=====

Monday, February 21, 2011

Spring coat(s)

It's getting warmer and warmer day by day, but spring seems staying far away from us. I wanted a new spring coat to cheer me up, and sewed two copies in a row. I mean, I sewed two coats from one pattern, and the first one turned out to be a failure and second one successfully became my spring coat.


The first
I sensed that it was going to be very unsuccessful from the beginning. It sounds very silly, but it is true. Though this mint green fabric had a right thickness for spring coat, I knew it was apparently springy (well...I'm not joking or rhyming). I just loved this color too much! What I did was wishing it OK, instead of being clever. I sewed it into a boxy coat, and the result was a disaster. It didn't seem that disastrous on a hanger, but it started barking its true meaning on human. It was like a shape-memorized very boxy container for human torso. I also thought I looked like a mint-green tin robot. (My daughter said that I looked like an astronaut in it, but I suspect she wanted to mention space suits.) I'm laughing at myself seeing that I just couldn't avoid the whole process to make sure of the consequences.

I assume that it is good to share my failure that had caused by a bad choice of fabric. You have to see it to minimize your possibility to look like this, don't you? My suggestion is that if you doubt whether your fabric for coat is soft enough, you'd definitely better stop.


The second
So I came to my stash again, and after a long thought, I picked up this linen for the second attempt. It was a very heavy linen canvas, with generously flowing texture. By then, I became to hate all springy things in my stash, and naturally felt like choosing the softest fabric among all my coat-weight fabrics. It was a small piece of linen with a big pattern, which was a present from my friend Kapo, who is always bringing me one new fabric after her holiday. She is so nice. She is super nice. I can bore you by telling this thousands of times. Maybe now I have to have my own holiday to get her something nice.

Thanks to its softness, this time it made the coat very wearable. It slightly but naturally follows the shape of body and looks more decent as a garment, in my opinion. I couldn't care about the layout of print pattern, because of the size of fabric, but I am quite happy with the result in the end. I also chose a set of pink delicate shell buttons for it from my drawer. They were a part of swapping gifts from Mimosa some years ago. Thanks Mimosa, now they are on my brand-new coat!


=====
spring coat(s)
pattern: 3023(boxy half coat: discontinued) from anneecotton* size 40(down graded to 38)
pockets: modified (narrow double piping pockets to wide single piping pockets)
mint green coat
cotton/polyester blend, light weight, chambray twill, soft but very springy. 2.2cm buttons.
salmon pink organic pattern coat
linen, heavy plain rough canvas, soft, wobbly and flowing texture. 2.5cm buttons.

Both are fully lined. Mint green one has a closed lining.
Lining of linen one hasn't been closed at hem.
Linen coat has a narrower overlapping at front center (by 3cm).

=====


notes
*Always choose softer fabric than what she'd think appropriate.
*Never listen to yoshimi for her favorite.

Have a lovely week!

Much love,
yoshimi

Tuesday, December 23, 2008

coat "poppie"


coat "poppie"


I have made this coat, for my colleague's wedding party. It'll be in next February but it's always good to be ready in advance!
( I will need to make a dress and a shirt for my girl and husband by then, so there is not much time, anyway.)


The fabric is gorgeous indeed, and I really adore its quality. To my eyes, it shines like a golden wheat field in the late summer. Something beautiful, nothing snobbish.

coat "poppie"
coat "poppie"
coat "poppie"



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pattern: anneecotton* "poppie", a short&dolman-sleeved wide coat
fabric: alpaca50/wool50 blended shaggy fabric, the color of double cream
lining: twill cupro, pale gold
2 plastic buttons and fusible interfacings (hard for collar, thick&soft for facing and hem)
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a simple silk skirt (to be)

I have also made a skirt out of this silk satin. After finishing the coat, I realized that one of my handmade scarves suited it very much. I had to make a skirt out of the leftover of the scarf!

a simple silk skirt

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pattern: anneecotton* "A-line skirt 948"
fabric: silk satin
lining: cupro, cream
invisible zipper and interfacing (thick&soft)
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