Modernism in Art and Fashion

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Modernism in

Art and
Fashion
Felicia Sukoputri
Belinda Poetri Dhanti
Agatha Nainggolan
Bennedictus Gilang Bagaskara Putra
Table of Contents

01 02 03

PABLO HENRI SALVADOR


PICASSO MATISSE DALÌ
PABLO PICASSO

Pablo Ruiz Picasso (25 October 1881 – 8 April


1973) was a Spanish painter, sculptor, 
printmaker, ceramicist and theatre designer
 who spent most of his adult life in France.
Regarded as one of the most influential artists
of the 20th century, he is known for co-
founding the Cubist movement, the invention
of constructed sculpture, the co-invention of 
collage, and for the wide variety of styles that
he helped develop and explore. Among his
most famous works are the proto-Cubist 
Les Demoiselles d'Avignon (1907), and 
Guernica (1937), a dramatic portrayal of the 
bombing of Guernica by German and Italian air
forces during the Spanish Civil War.
Pablo Picasso unique art style
 
Pablo Picasso pioneered the Cubism movement, a revolutionary style of modern art that Picasso
formed in response to the rapidly changing modern world. Picasso did not feel that art should copy
nature. He felt no obligation to remain tied to the more traditional artistic techniques of perspective,
modelling, and foreshortening and felt two-dimensional object. Picasso wanted to emphasize the
difference between a painting and reality. Cubism involves different ways of seeing, or perceiving, the
world around us. Picasso believed in the concept of relativity he took into account both his
observations and his memories when creating a Cubist image.

While the majority of Picasso’s works of Cubism are paintings, he also created stunning prints;
etchings, lithographs and linocuts in the style of Cubism. Such Cubist prints are exceedingly rare and
are often created after the image of renowned Picasso Cubist paintings such as Still Life with a Bottle
of Rum (1911).
How Pablo Picasso Influence Fashion?

The Cubist movement is very special but methodical in its conduct. Cubism consumes
fashion in the most divine sense of the word and it is an inevitable success, mainly
because of the agile nature of art and the possibilities that come from it. Pablo Picasso,
let Cubism gain momentum as a movement and then flow to designers who do not copy
their approach, but only use it as inspiration for their own interpretations.The
relationship between art and fashion is somewhat symbiotic: artists have and still do
draw inspiration from fashions of the past and present while designers embrace art as a
cultural statement to keep their designs relevant and alluring. It’s easy to appreciate that
art history isn’t defined solely by the contemporary, and fashion is by no means limited
strictly to clothing; but it’s difficult to realise that the condensing of these significant
cultural elements into one.
01
PABLO PICASSO

Moschino’s spring 2020


A flesh-toned palette inspired by Picasso’s Les Demoiselles
Milan Runway Show
d’Avignon (1907)

Jeremy Scott was thinking along these lines


when developing the concept for his Spring 2020
collection for Moschino. He looked to iconic
cubist Pablo Picasso, using forms and colours
from the artist's immense pictorial production in
hopes of recreating and reimagining the
Picasso’s Guitar (1912–14) inspired a wild and stunning painter's visceral relationships with the many
dress women in his life.
Stripes a la Picasso’s
nautical portrait
Le Marin (1943),
complete with a
bulbous hand
Passion, torment, love, and betrayal
came to sartorial life in the
veritable runway show, where a
colourful palette and past artistic
masterpieces defined shapes and
mouldings.

A fractured green and-


black outfit
recalls Picasso’s
Homme et
femme nus
(1968)
Picasso’s obsession
with minotaur's,
as in King of the
Minotaur's, were
translated into The angular lines of Cubism
various define the silhouettes,
accessories. alternating with splendid
volumes of seemingly two-
dimensional boleros, a tribute to
the Andalusian vestimenta
tradition. Even the accessories
did not escape the collection's
Bella Hadid wears a pictorial fury, featuring bulls'
harlequin heads, violins, and a fun bucket
ensemble, a lot
bag that perfectly resembles the
like Picasso’s
Arlequin Assis tin can where brushes are put
(1901). away.
HENRI MATISSE

Henri Émile Benoît Matisse (31 December


1869 – 3 November 1954) was a French artist,
known for both his use of colour and his fluid
and original draughtsmanship. He was a 
draughtsman, printmaker, and sculptor, but is
known primarily as a painter.[1] Matisse is
commonly regarded, along with Pablo Picasso,
as one of the artists who best helped to define
the revolutionary developments in the 
visual arts throughout the opening decades of
the twentieth century, responsible for
significant developments in painting and
sculpture
Henry Matisse was a French artist who is widely known for his paintings
and cut-out art. Though he was a draughtsman, sculptor, and printmaker,
he is most remembered for his work on paintings. In his early creation,
Matisse's work was a fauvist art which means paintings that used bold
colour, non-naturalistic colour, spontaneous lines, and the shape of the
drawing was simplified, making the final results appear abstract.

Besides paintings, Matisse was also a sculptor, and half of his creation
was finished between 1900-1910. Matisse also liked to travel to various
parts of the world to study, including Algeria where he learned about
African art and primitivism, then Spanish to learn about Moorish art, and
Morocco.
In the early 40s, Matisse was diagnosed with abdominal cancer and had a
successful surgery. However, he had serious complications that lead him to
chair and bed-bound. In this time Matisse developed the new art using
paper and scissors. With the help of his assistant, he started to do cut-out
and collages. He would cut sheets of paper and pre-painted with the help of
his assistant into various shapes, colours, and sizes then finally arranging
them into vibrant compositions. These kinds of arts make Matisse became
unique and remembered by many people. His work in vibrant colour and his
cut-out technique of art become unique. 

Matisse’s work of art has influenced many fashion designers such as Yves
Saint Laurent, Vivienne Westwood, Valentino, and many more for their
collection. Some of the inspirations are from Matisse models' way of
dressing, his cut-out arts, paintings, and even women that closed to Henri
become their inspirations for their fashion collection
02
HENRI MATISSE
Yves Saint Laurent’s
fashion week of AW14

Yves Saint Laurent’s old working house, Dior, also got inspired by the great
artist that Matisse is. In a different way, they used the painting « The fall of
Icarus » (1943) to create this blue dress presented during the fashion week of
AW14.The colours and the shape of the dress reminds us almost instantly of
this Matisse painting. The red from the collar is the same as the figure and the
blue is obviously the highlight of the dress. The details of the brooch’s bring
back the yellow details of the painting.
HENRI MATISSE
Duro Olowu 

Nigerian-born fashion designer Duro Olowu impressed with his vibrant prints on


view at his show at Salon 94 More Material. “The paintings and collages of Henri
Matisse have been and continue to be a great source of inspiration in the way I
execute my fabric prints for my women’s wear
collections,” he says. “In particular, Ivy in Flower. The work is a full-scale
maquette for a stained-glass window. The juxtaposition of turquoise-blue, azure-
blue, fuchsia, pink, and green on a sunflower-yellow background is astounding. It
exudes a freedom and joie de vivre that I always strive for in my designs. It simply
never fails to excite me."
HENRI MATISSE
2009 CFDA/Vogue Fashion
Fund winner Sophie
Theallet

French fashion designer and 2009 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner


Sophie Theallet has also found inspiration in Matisse’s work. “Matisse
was such a multitalented artist—everything he touched was magic,” she
says. “I particularly love the Chapelle du Rosaire de Vence; his artistic
touch on the religious is mesmerizing. The light and clean lines convey
the spiritual feeling with such a refreshingly new approach.”
HENRI MATISSE
fall/winter 1980 haute
couture collection

Fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent looked to Matisse’s cut outs for his
fall/winter 1980 haute couture collection. His black velvet and moiré faille
evening dress with multicolour satin appliqué leaves was inspired by
The Sheaf (shown).
HENRI MATISSE
Ostwald Helgason
Spring 2013 Ready-
to-Wear

a wealthy philanthropist who commissioned Matisse to make a mural for


her mansion's courtyard. "She [Brody] told Matisse to redo it," Helgason
said in a preview the night before the presentation. "That is the kind of
strong, adventurous woman that we were thinking about." A graphic
color-blocked dress—whose fabric comes from the same house as
Dior's—was layered over a preppy collared shirt
HENRI MATISSE
Versace Resort 2012

It could've been the easy, breezy cut of vacation dresses in a tropical


print inspired by Matisse. Or maybe it was the couture-level
workmanship on a cropped-below-the-bust jacket handmade from
stamped leather, knit, and raffia. But we tend to think it has something to
do with how right Versace's unapologetically sexy vision feels in a
season that's been dominated by sport.
Tata Naka
Autumn
Winter
2014/15
Pre
Collection
Salvador dalì

Salvador Domingo Felipe Jacinto Dalí I


Domènech (11 May 1904 – 23 January 1989)
was a Spanish surrealist artist renowned for his
technical skill, precise draftsman ship and the
striking and bizarre images in his work.
Salvador Dalí
 
Salvador Domingo Felipe Jacinto Dalí i Domènech, 1st Marquess of Dalí de Púbol, was a Spanish surrealist
 artist renowned for his technical skill, precise draftsmanship and the striking and bizarre images in his work. Born
in Figueres, Catalonia, Dalí received his formal education in fine arts in Madrid. Influenced by Impressionism and
the Renaissance masters from a young age, he became increasingly attracted to Cubism and avant-garde
movements. He moved closer to Surrealism in the late 1920s and joined the Surrealist group in 1929, soon
becoming one of its leading exponents. His best-known work, The Persistence of Memory, was completed in
August 1931, and is one of the most famous Surrealist paintings.
Dalí said to always have been interested in fashion, so when he met Coco, Coco Chanel inspired him
to design clothing, such as the costumes the theatrical piece, Bacchanale, and for the opera, Tristan Fou. He also
made The Lobster Dress from 1937 from his collaboration between Schiaparelli and himself. He painted the red
lobster, an immense blood-red lobster on a plain white organdy evening gown, that was highly symbolic of his
obsession with sex.
Dalí also designed “Ruby Lips”, which is a ruby and cultured pearl brooch, which ending up inspiring
many designers such as Victoria Beckham and Prada in which they sell shirts covered in free-floating lips.
Salvador dalì
Maison margiela SS 2001
collection

American poet, filmmaker and artist Charles Henri Ford, in this


picture from 1937 by Cecil Beaton for Vogue [left]́,  is wearing a
weird glove costume designed by Salvador Dalí. Maybe this image
has been an inspiration to Belgian fashion designer Martin Margiela
while creating this wonderful glove patchwork top for his SS||2001
collection [right].
Salvador dalì
Elsa Schiaparelli

While a lobster is seemingly harmless, it actually is steeped in


controversy. Dalí used lobsters as a recurring theme in his work and
was interested in the lobster’s anatomy. It’s shell acts as a skeleton
on the outside, and it has a soft interior on the inside, the reverse of
humans. The lobster in Dalí’s work has sexual tones as well,
stemming from female-male dynamics.
03
Salvador dalì
Walter Van Beirendonck,
Fall 2017 Menswear

the garment was inspired by the art work of Salvador dalì


“Bacchanale” which it took the art literally to fashion, the look was
trying to imitate the big hand or glove on the artwork and transform
it to the more modern look.
Salvador dalì
Prada Fall 2009

 Designer Agatha Ruiz de la Prada has staged some truly


surrealist fashion shows.  This dress of drawers from her
Fall 2009 show clearly has its roots in Salvador Dali’s The
Burning Giraffe, how it inspired her by the silhouette, colour
and the painting that show how the girl has drawers on the
dress.
Salvador dalì
Elsa Schiaparelli

His painting, The Dream Places A Hand on a Man's


Shoulder and Three Young Surrealist Women Holding in Their Arms
the Skins of an Orchestra depicts female figures, much like fashion
mannequins adorned with rips and tears.  A trompe l’oeil print of
tears is combined with actual torn fabric in the artist’s collaboration
with Schiaparelli for a dress that imitates art in 1938.
Salvador dalì
Elsa Schiaparelli

The Skeleton Dress was the first of its kind because of its subject matter, but also because of its
technique. Schiaparelli used a technique called trapunto where two layers of fabric are sewn
together creating an outline. Wadding is inserted into the outline, creating a raised effect. This
technique creates a textured surface on the flat fabric giving the illusion that human bones are
protruding through the dress. It caused a scandal because the dress was made of a clingy material
that stuck to the skin. The imaginations of Dali’s paintings and drawings were realized in the
physical three-dimensional world by Schiaparelli’s garments. Dali, as mentioned earlier, was
interested in anatomy, and this translates into his work as well.

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