BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology

Submitted to Submitted by
Taslima Ahmed Tamanna
Name ID
Lecturer of
BGMEA University of Fashion and
Technology
WOOL
FIBER
 Introduction:

Name: Ismam Noor Sezan

ID: 181-238-801
 What is WOOL?

Wool is animal fibrous protein fiber. It comes from

fibrous covering of the sheep, goat, camel etc.
For thousands of year wool has been used for clothing
around the world. Till today wool fiber has great
importance because of its unique natural properties
that are absent in other natural and synthetic fibers.
 Wool and Hair:

Wool and hair both are protein fiber comes from

fibrous covering of sheep, goat, and camel. But wool
fibers have some special characteristics that are absent
in hair. Wool are short, fine, curly, elastic but hair are
long, coarse, less elastic, no scale and stiffer than wool.
 Wool Producing Countries:
2% 2% 2%
2%
2%
2% 29%

3%
13%

20% 21%

Australia  China United States  New Zealand  Argentina  Turkey  Iran

 United Kingdom Sudan South Africa  India
 Introduction:

Name: Jutirmoy Roy

ID: 181-236-801
 Physical Structure:
 Polymer System:

The wool polymer is linear keratin polymer, with some

very short side groups and it normally has a helical
configuration. The repeating unit of the wool polymer
is the amino acid which has the general formula shown
in fig.
 Introduction:

Name: Md. Arefin

ID: 181-239-801
 Different Bond in Wool Polymer:

1. Hydrogen bond(H-bond)
2. Salt linkage or ionic bonds.
3. Cross-linkage and cystine linkage
4. Vander walls forces.

The polymer system of wool is extremely amorphous.

It is about 25-30% crystalline and 70-75% amorphous.
 Chemical Composition of Wool:
Approximate composition of raw  wool
Component %
Wool keratin 45
Wool wax 18
Suint 12
Water 12
Debris 15
 Keratin:
Elements %
Carbon 50
Oxygen 22-25
Nitrogen 16-17
Hydrogen 7
Sulfur 3-4
 Introduction:

Name: Md. Asif Mia

ID: 181-233-801
 Manufacturing Process:
 Manufacturing Process:

Triming: By this process farmers collect wool from

sheep. It’s also called sheering. The sheep is sheared
by early spring.
Sorting: Wool sorting is done by good skilled workers
who shorts according to fineness length and sometimes
strength of fiber.
Scouring: It involves washing in warm soapy water
several times to remove the natural grease or gum from
the fiber and the saint dirt and dust.
 Manufacturing Process:

Oiling: The wool fiber is treated by various oil

including animal vegetable and mineral because
unmanageable.
Garneting: The picking and shredding process of
recycled and unused wool is called garneting.
Carbonizing: After garneting the wool fibers are put
through a dilute solution of HCl or H 2 SO 4 Which
destroys any vegetable fibers is called carbonizing.
 Introduction:

Name: Mahbub Alam Bhuiyan

ID: 181-231-801
 Physical Properties:
1.Length and fineness :- Merino wool fibers are very
fine (17-25 micro meters) but not very long(60-100 mm)
whereas Lincoln wool is coarser ( around 40 micro meters)
diameter but much on length. ( 75- 250 mm).

2.Crimp :- The crimp of wool fibers is most pronounced in

the fine wool fibers. For example , the best merino wools
will have 12 waves to the cm ( 30 per inch) in a fiber.
The elasticity of wool fiber is due to it's crimp .
Due to the crimp , wool yarn trap air and when used in
garments .
Physical Properties:
3.Luster :- Wool fiber have natural luster. Luster
depends very largely on the nature of the fiber surface.
4.Color :- Most of the wool from modern sheep is
white or near -white in color.
5.Tenacity :- The low tensile strength of wool is due
to the relativity few hydrogen bonds that are formed.
Wool has a tenacity of 8.8-15 CN/Tex in dry state and
7-14 CN/Tex in wet state.
Physical Properties:
7. Elastic property :- Wool fibers are highly elastic
and resilient because of it's crimped configuration and
partly to the alpha-keratin configuration of wool
polymers. The elastic recovery of wool fibers is 99% at
2% extensions.
8. Effect of moisture and water :- Under Ordinary
atmospheric conditions, Wool will hold 16-18% of it's
weight of moisture.
9.Specific gravity :- Wool is a light-weight fibre of
specific gravity 1.32
 Introduction:

Name: Md. Tasin Ahmed

ID: 181-237-801
 CHEMICAL PROPERTIES
1.Effect of acid :- Wool is decomposes completely by
hot concentrated H2SO4 but general resistant to other
mineral acids.
2.Effect of alkalis :- Caustic soda, Ammonium
carbonate, Borax and Sodium phosphate have minimum
effect of wool because the chemical nature of wool fibre
is keratin.
3.Effect of bleaching:- Hypochlorite bleaching
damage the wool fibre. Normally hydrogen peroxide is
used for bleaching.
 CHEMICAL PROPERTIES
4.Effect of organic solvents:- Wool has a good resistance to
dry-cleaning and other common solvents.
5.Insects:- Wool is attacked by moth-grubs and other insects.
6.Micro Organism:- Wool has a poor resistance to mildews and
bacteria and it is not advisable to leave wool for too long in a damp
condition.
7.Dye ability:- Easy to dye. Acid , mordant, reactive dye is
suitable.
8.Effect of heat:- Wool becomes weak loses its softness when
heated at the temperature of boiling water for long periods of time.
At 130○C ,it is decomposes and turns yellow,and it chars at 300○c.
 Introduction:

Name: Rayhan Islam

ID: 181-232-801
  Classifsication of wool:
The classification by fleece is as follows:
 
Lamb’s Wool: The fleece obtained by
shearing the lamb of six to eight months old
for the first time is known as lamb’s wool.
Hogget Wool: Hogget wool is the one
 obtained from sheep about twelve to
fourteen months old that have not been
previously shorn.These are primarily
used for warp yarns.
Weather Wool: Weather wool is
the one obtained from the sheep older
than fourteen month. These fleeces
contain much soil and dirt.

Pulled Wool: Pulled wool is taken

from animals originally slaughtered for
meat. The wool is pulled from the pelt
of the slaughtered sheep using various
chemicals. The fibers of pulled wool are
of low quality and produce a low-grade
cloth.
Dead Wool: This is the wool obtained
from the sheep that have died of age or
accidentally killed.Dead wool fibre is
decidedly inferior in grade; it is used in
low-grade cloth

Cotty Wool: This type of wool is obtained

from the sheep that are exposed to severe
weather. As discussed; the severe weather
conditions hamper the qualities of the
fleece obtained. The cotty wool is of a poor
grade and is hard and brittle
 Introduction:

Name: SK. Arafat Faisal

ID: 181-234-801
 Classification of Wool(by sheep):
The sheep may be classified into four types

1.Merino Wool:
Merino wool ( obtained from Merino sheep) is
considered as best quality wool. Fiber is strong,
fine and elastic. Merino is used in the best types of
wool clothing
The varieties of merino sheep are chiefly found in
Spain, New Zealand, South America, South Africa
and Australia
Classification(by sheep):

b. Class-Two Wool:
This class of sheep is originated in England,
Scotland, Ireland and Wales. The staple fiber is
relatively longer than Merino ( 50-200 mm). It is
2-8 inches. The fibers are strong, fine and elastic
but not as strong, fine and elastic as merino. It
has scales and crimps but not as more and goods
as merino wool
Classification(by sheep):

c. Class three wools:

This class of sheep originated in the United
Kingdom.
The fiber are about 4 to 18 inches long ( 100455
mm ). These are coarser and have less crimps
and scales.
As a result they are smoother and have more
luster.
Classification(by sheep):

d. Class-four wools: This class of wools are

25-400 mm long (1-16 inch), coarser and hair
like having less scales and little crimp.
Therefore, these wools are smoother and
more lustrous having less strength and
elasticity.
 Introduction:

Name: Najiba Abedin

ID: 181-208-801
 Wool Processing(fleece-fabric):
 Types of Wool Yarn:
Wool is spun into two types of yarn.

Woolen yarn: Woolen yarn is thick,

and fibers in woolen yarn are held loosely
and subjected to only limited twist during
spinning. These yarn are woven into thick
bulkier material
 Types of Wool Yarn:

Worsted yarn: Worsted yarns are

finer, smoother and stronger than
woolen yarns. The fibers in worsted
yarn are twisted strongly to form
fine and strong yarn.These yarns are
woven into fine dresses
 Difference between Wollen and Woested:

Woolen yarn Worsted yarn

Short staple fiber Long staple fiber

Only carded Carded and combed

Slightly twisted Higher twisted

Coarser yarn Finer

Weaker Stronger
 Introduction:

Name: Tanmoy Choudhury

ID: 181-240-801
 Sources of Wool Fiber:
The sources of wool fiber are:

1. Camel hair
2. Mohair ( obtained from Angora goat )
3. Cashmere ( obtained from Cashmere goat )
4. Llama ( obtained from camel like animal )
5. Alpaca ( obtained from domesticated animal that
resembles llama
Sources Fiber Product
Source Fiber Product
 Advantage of Wool Fiber:
• Wool is Natural • Wool is Healthy
 Renewable  Breathable
 Sustainable  Humidity control
 Biodegradable  Low allergy
 Energy efficient  Toxic chemical
absorption
• Wool is Safe  Sound reduction
 Flame resistant
 UV protection
 Static electricity
reduction
 Application of Wool:
Apparel: Suits, jackets, pullovers, coats, sportswear,
skiwear, scarves, gloves, socks, hats, active wear,
children's wear, waterproof fabrics, casual wear, shoes,
formal wear etc.
Interior Textiles: Carpets, duvets, mattresses, pillows,
blankets, upholstery, tapestries, lamps, rugs, futons,
bedspreads, tablecloths, wall coverings etc.
Technical Textiles: Aircraft interiors, thermal
insulation, sound insulation, sound vibration control, roof
insulation, filtration, fire proof wear, police uniforms etc.