Production,Properties , and uses of Silk

Dr. Capt. Sandhya Rani Mohanty, HOD

Dept. of Home Science ,
Banki Autonomous College
 Silk
It is also called Queen of
fibers.
It is natural protein fiber of animal origin

It is solidified protein secretion produced by certain caterpillars.

Silk was Sioloc.

History records the Chinese as the first

people who knew how to raise silk
worms and manufacture Silk and make
cloth from the filament which silk worm
spins into a cocoon.
 Silk producing
Countries:
Most historians agree that silk and sericulture (the production of silkworms) had their origin
in china nearly 2500 BC.

Now there are over 40 countries on the world map producing silk.

China is the largest producer and supplier of silk followed by India and then Brazil.

China is the largest producer and supplier of silk followed by India and then Brazil.

About 300 A. D. Japan obtained the formula and today is the chief producer and exporter of
quality silk.
Gradually silk production spread across Asia into India and eventually Persia, Southern Europe, Spain,
Italy, France.
Processing of Silk in Ancient China
 Manufacturing of Silk Fibre

•Cultivated Silk This type of silk is called cultivated Silk. Since the
discovery of the silk filament as well as fabrics,
silkworms have been bred for the sole purpose of
producing silk.

The technique of rearing of silk worms for the

.
productions of cocoons for their filament is called
sericulture

It is produced by species of moth called Bombyx Mori.

These worms are fed only on mulberry leaves.

Steps in Manufacturing Process of Silk Fiber
Life cycle of the silk worms (Sericulture):
 Life cycle of the silk worms (Sericulture):

Silk worm lives for very short time, only about two months

During this period, it passes through four stages of development

i) eggs

ii) worm, (caterpillar),

iii) cocoon and

iv) moth. Under scientific breeding,

Silk Worm
silk worm may be hatched three times a year
Eggs: The female moth lays 350-400 eggs on special cards and die.

Eggs is about the size of pinhead.

•The cards are examined and infected eggs are burned and only healthy eggs are allowed to hatch.

Eggs on special cards

 Worm or Caterpillar or Larvae

The egg develops into larva or caterpillar or Silkworm.

A tiny white worm about one fourth inch long is hatched from each tiny egg.

The larva requires careful nurturing in the controlled atmosphere for

approximately 20 to 30 days
During this period it is fed five times a day on chopped mulberry leaves.

After four sheddings of skin or moltings, the worm reaches full growth.
At this stage it is smooth grayish white caterpillar about 3&1/2 inches long.

At the end of 30 days, the worm shrinks somewhat in size and become pinkinsh and
transparent.
It ceases to eat and attaches itself to a piece of straw and begins to spin cocoon.
 Cocoons

Two filaments are ejected from the mouth of the silkworm.

It secretes a protein like substance and with a bending

motion, the filament is spun around the worm in the form
of figure ‘8”. The worm completes the cocoon in about 3
days.

The filament is in the form of double strand made up of

fibroin, which is held together by a gummy substance Cocoons
called sericin.
The filaments harden when exposed to air.

The worm is caught inside the cocoon and remains there

for a few days.
This is called the ‘Pupa’ stage. Moth

•The Pupa turns into a moth. The female moth then lay eggs and die.

The moths emerge from cocoon by secreting an alkaline liquid that dissolves the
filament and thus piercing the cocoon and breed.
•Their cycle of life is completed.

If moth is permitted to emerge from the cocoon, the silk filament is

broken into short pieces
This process is called as stoving.
Few cocoons are left aside for life cycle to continue.
Therefore, the cocoons are steamed or are subjected to hot air to kill the Pupa inside the
cocoon.
 Filature: Once the cocoons are obtained from the silk worm,
they are sorted out according to colour, size shape
and texture.
In the next step sericin from the silk filament is
softened to permit the unwinding of the filament.

As a single filament of silk is too fine; 3 - 10 cocoons

are carefully unwound together to form a composite
strand of silk.
This process is called as Reeling
During the next operation desired amount of twist is
given to composite strand of silk to make it into a silk
yarn.
Filature Operation This process is called Throwing and the silk is called as Thrown silk.
Difference between Degumming & Weighting
 Properties of Silk Fiber

Microscopic Properties

Cultivated degummed silk viewed longitudinally

under a microscope resembles a smooth transparent
rod. (For Diagram of microscopic appearance of Silk,
refer to practical No. 6)
 Physical Properties
Length: •Silk is the only filament fiber. Silk filaments are very fine and long. They frequently measure about 900 – 1200
meters and can be as long as 2800 meters.

•Silk has high luster, after the sericin has been removed. Because of its exceptional lustre, Silk is
Luster: known as ‘Queen’ of fabrics. Wild silk has less luster than cultivated silk.

Silk is the strongest of the animal fiber. It loses 15 – 25 % of its strength when wet. Due to it’s low wet
Strength: strength it demands special care while laundering.

Elastic recovery and elongation

•: Silk is very elastic fiber, but compared to wool its elasticity is slightly less.

Resiliency
•: Silk is very elastic fiber, but compared to wool its elasticity is slightly less.

Moisture Absorption
•Silk has high moisture regain. Due to this property silk can be dyed and printed in brilliant colors.

Density:
• Silk has high moisture regain. Due to this property silk can be dyed and printed in
brilliant colors.
 Biological Properties

Effect of mildew •Silk being a protein fiber is the least damaged by mildew, but it is attacked if left in a
damp condition for a period of time.

•Being a protein fiber it is easily damaged by moth. silk has good resistance to the clothes moth
Effect of moth but carpet beetles will eat it. So while stroring silk, care needs to be taken & some kind of
insecticide should be used.

Thermal Properties
•Silk is easily affected by heat. We can not use hot iron or water for silk. When approached
Effect to Heat to the flame silk will ignite and continues to burn with a smell of burning hair of feather. It
leaves crisp, brittle bead.

Heat conductivity •Silk has low heat conductivity. It is not a good conductor of heat. This makes it a suitable wear
for winter season.
 Wild Silk
There are several types of caterpillars other than Bombyx Mori, which spin cocoons. Silk
obtained from such cocoons is known as wild silk.

Wild silk yarn

following species of silk worm are used in producing wild silk.

A.Antheraea Mylitta – Tassar silk

A.Antheraea Assamensis – Muga silk.

A.Philosamaea Risini – Eri silk.

 It is also hard to bleach or dye.

The tannin in the oak

leaves gives tan colour and
it is generally woven with
the naturally coloured
thread.
Wild silk is less lustrous
than cultivated silk, as only
low percentage of sericin is
removed in degumming
process.

It is washable and less

expensive.
Eri Silk Tussar Silk
Difference between cultivated silk and Wild silk Difference between Cultivated Reeled Silk and Spun Silk

Cultivated Silk Wild Silk Spun Silk

Cultivated Reeled Silk
1. Obtained from silk 1. Obtained from other
worm called wild species of silk 1. 1. Obtained from
Obtained from unbroken
Bombyx Mori. good quality cocoons. damaged cocoons.
worms.
2. Silk worms eat 2. Silk worms eat leaves 2. Continuous, 2. Fibres are staple in length.
leaves of only of castor or oak tree. long filament.
mulberry tree.
3. 3. Not very smooth,
Very smooth, lustrous and
3. Very smooth, 3. Not so smooth, strong. lustrous and strong.
lustrous and lustrous or delicate
delicate
4. More expensive 4. Less expensive
4. Cream or off 4. Darker in colour. 5. 5.
Used for making expensive Used for making lining material
white in colour party wear. and blends.
 •The machine waste or scrap left from the operation like reeling and throwing.

Spun Silk Short lengths or staples or inferior silk filaments, obtained from
waste material are carded and combed and are spun together
like cotton, linen or wool yarns.
These yarns are known as spun silk.

There are various sources of staple silk

•Pierced cocoons from which moths have cut their way and emerged.

•Double cocoons produced when two silk worms spin their cocoons too close together.

•Floss brushed from cocoons before reeling and coarse and uneven fibre at the beginning
and end of each cocoon.
•The machine waste or scrap left from the operation like reeling and throwing.

Spun silk is less lustrous than reeled silk and not as strong or
elastic.
As the yarns are made from staple fibres, spun silk fabrics tend to become more
fuzzy.
It is less expensive than reeled silk. Spun silk is used for shantung and pile fabrics, for dress trimmings,
linings, as insulating materials.
Uses of Silk Silk in universally accepted as a luxury fiber and has been the
“Queen of fabrics” for centuries.

Silk has a unique combination of properties not possessed by any

other fiber.

Silk fabrics are luxurious in appearance and feel.

It is a very strong fiber in relation to its filament fineness.

It is very elastic and wrinkle resistant.

Because of its absorbency, it is appropriate for warm weather wear,

because of its low heat conductivity it is also appropriate for cold
weather wear.
Silk dyes and prints readily to beautiful, brilliant shades. It is
adaptable to a variety of fabric construction from very sheer chiffon
to heavy, rich beautiful brocades and velvets.
 Apparel uses

Silk is used primarily in apparel items and high fashion items

It is worn in festivals and traditional ceremonies, weddings

It is used for bridal wear, kurtas, tie, scraf, sarees men’s jacket etc.
 Household uses :
In furnishing silk is often blended with other fibers to add a soft luster to the
furnishing fabrics.
Silk blends are often used in window treatments and rich luxurious upholstery fabrics.

Occasionally, beautiful and expensive handmade rugs will be made of silk.

Miscellaneous Uses
Silk threads are used for embroidery purposes.

Silk is also used for making fancy articles like head ornaments, hand bags, bows, ribbons,
decorative articles etc.