In Process Inspection

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Apparel Quality Assurance

Unit IV - In Process Inspection


• What ? - Inspection Products in between
sequence of manufacturing process
• Where ? - From spreading to packing
• Why? – to identify quality problems then &
there
• Benefits ? – Reduced cost & Save time
Reduce rework cost by 60% & Rejections from
3% to 1%.
Pattern & Pattern Grading
• Check Shape & Measurements of Patterns – as
per requirements
• Grading - Not Conforming to Specifications
• Distorted Grading: Unbalanced patterns -
which would cause twisted seams, puckering,
pleating
Marker
• To check - all the parts of garments pattern for
all the sizes are in marker.
• To check Labelling or coding of pattern
• To check Pattern direction
• Pattern grain line
• Marker width as per Fabric width
• Notches & drill marks
• Knife clearance freedom-
• Checks and stripes
Spreading (Fabric Laying)
Factors which must be checked
• Fabric Nature
• Lay length
• Lay Height
• Lay Direction
• Lay alignment – Length & width (Selvedge alignment)
• Ply tension/slackness
• Splicing length
• Static electricity
• Stripes / checks matching
• Bowing , Grain-line, Shade variation
Spreading Defects
1. Uneven Spreading:- Front edge of lay is not even, resulting in
front or back edge of marker not catching all ply.
2·. Narrow Material:- Bolts or rolls of material too narrow to cover
marker width.
3. Missed Sectional Breaks:- Sectional marker breaks too long or
too short. Parts in lay will be short or material wasted.
4. Improper Tension:- Cloth spread too tight or too loose, causing
parts not to fit in sewing or distorting dimensions of garments.
5. Mismatching Plaids:- Material spread too loose or too tight
causing plaid lines to run diagonally or bow.
6. Misdirected Napping:- Air pockets not removed. Napped
material reversed in spreading.
7. Improper Matching of Face of Material:-Not spread face down,
face up or face to face as required.
Cutting
• Quality of blades / Knives
Defects
• Frayed edges – Dull blades / Knives
• Fuzzy, ragged or serrated edges – Burr Blade
• Single edge fusion
• Ply to ply fusion
• Pattern precision
• Notches & drillers
Cutting Defects
• Marker or Perforator:- Not stapled or stencilled on lay . Too tight
or too loose, distorting dimensions of garment.
• Perforated stencil ,not powdered or inked, sufficiently to show
distinct lines, notches and punch marks.
• Misplaced Piece Rate Tickets or Bundle Members:-Attached to, or
marked on, wrong bundles, causing mixed sizes or land shades.
• Drill Marks:- Drill marks misplaced, not perpendicular, omitted or
wrong side drill used.
• Opening Slits:- Cut under above to the side or at incorrect angle.
Not cut through entire bundle or omitted.
• Improper Cutting:- Not following marker lines, resulting in
distorted parts. Letting knife lean causing top and bottom ply to be
of different sizes.
• Notches:- Misplaced, too deep, too shallow or omitted.
7. Oil Spots:- Equipment improperly oiled or cleaned.
8. Improper Knife Sharpening:-Causing ragged, frayed or fused edges on
bundles.
9. Knife or Scissor Cut:-Piece damaged by over run in cutting previous piece.
Sorting/ Bundling inspection
• To check numbering, sorting, and bundling.
Defects.
• Not Stacked in Numerical Order: Bundle numbers not in order
on rack skid or box.
• Matching Linings: Wrong size or wrong material.
Sewing
• Needles size , Thread size, Machine setting & operator skill – Important
Defects
• Holes in fabric
• Needle damage
• Skipped stitch
• Broken stitches
• Seam pucker / pleated seam
• Seam grin
• Thread breaks
• Wrong stitch density
• Uneven stitch density
• Staggered stitch
• Improperly formed stitch
• Oil stain
Seaming defects
• Uneven width
• Irregular sewing line
• In secure back stitching
• Mismatched checks / Stripes
• Mismatched seam
Assembly Defects
• Asymmetrical
• Misalignment of parts
• Shade variation
Fusing
• Time , Temp. & Pressure – Important
Fusing quality
• to check bond strength
• To check fabric feel
Pressing / Finishing
• Temp. & Time – Important
• To remove creases & set creases at required places
Defects
• Scorched/ Burned garments / fused garments
• Water spots
• Color change
• Flattened nap
• Broken button / zippers
• Creases not formed
• Wavy edges / stretched
• Not dried
• Shrinkage of garments

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