CLASSIFICATION, SELECTION, METHODS OF

DYEING

Submitted To:- Dr Saroj S. Jeet Singh

Submitted By:- Neenu Poonia
(2018HS14D)
 Introduction

 Dyes are natural or synthetic substances that add colour to the

fibre, yarns and fabrics.
 Dyes may combine chemically with fibre molecules, attach
themselves to the fibre surface, or be absorbed in to the fibre
without the chemical action.
 The molecules of the organic compounds called dyes are
responsible for the colour of the dyed and printed textile fibre
materials.
 Dye is a compound that can be fixed on a substance in a more
or less permanent state and evokes the visual sensation of a
specific colour.

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• Dye molecules are coloured because they are selectively able
to absorb and reflect some of the wavelengths of the incident
light.
• When all the visible light rays are reflected, it appears black.
• When one or more rays are reflected the viewer senses the
colour produced by the specific reflected ray or combination
of rays.

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• Organic molecules become coloured, and thus useful dye
molecules, if they contain at least one of each of the radicals
called chromophores and auxochromes.
• In general, chromophores give the dye molecule its particular
colour, while the auxochromes intensify the hue of the dye
molecules colour, and make the dye molecule water soluble.

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 Color

 Color derives from the spectrum of light (distribution of light

energy versus wavelength) interacting in the eye with the
spectral sensitivities of the light receptors.
 Color categories and physical spectrum of color are also
associated with objects, materials, light sources etc. based on
their physical properties such as light absorption, reflection or
emission spectra.

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 Colorants
• The substance that add color to the product are called as
colorants. Dyes and pigment are the two colorants. Both add
color but the process by which they are added and the effect
that are created make them different from each other.

Colorants

Dyes Pigments

Natural dye Synthetic Dye Organic Inorganic

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 Dye
• Dye, can be said to be colored, ionizing and aromatic organic
compounds which shows an affinity towards the substrate to
which it is being applied. There are mainly two classes of dye,
natural and man-made
Natural Dyes
Natural dyes are derived from nature through organic and
inorganic materials or sources. Logwood is a natural dye
obtained from plants and prussian blue is an inorganic dye
obtained from naturally occurring minerals.
Synthetic Dyes
Synthetic dyes became popular because they were easy-to-use,
less expensive and had wider range of colors. Synthetic dyes
are obtained by adding chemicals to natural dyes. For
example, artificial alizarin is a synthetic dye synthesized from
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coal tar anthracene. Synthetic dyes are used for7modern
 Pigments
• Pigments: It is the substance or powder that make up the color
of paint. Pigments are either organic (derived from plant or
animal sources, e.g. ivory black, indigo) or inorganic (derived
from salts or metallic oxide e.g. ocher, cobalt blue).

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 Dyeing

Painting :- Application of colour to any surface with the help

of suitable adhesive. It is basically surface colouration. Has
fastness property to some external agencies depending
adhesive forces between (fibre) surface and colouring
compound.
Tinting :- surface colouration. No fastness property to
external agencies. The process is used for fibre identification
of different varieties during spinning
Printing :- localized colouration in the form of design. Dye
penetration in the fibre cross section

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 General Theory of Dyeing
 In a dyeing process, efficiency of dyeing is directly
proportional to extent of diffusion of dye at the interior of
fiber.
 A dye possessing higher affinity for fiber will significantly
improve rate of surface deposition, moderate surface
absorption and slower diffusion.
 However, rate of diffusion can be improved by opening the
fiber structure up to some extent up using swelling agent for
natural fiber or by heating up manmade fiber to cause internal
“Brownian movement of polymer chain” which breaks up
few physical forces engaged to attach polymer chain and
make the fiber less resistant to the dye.
 The dye however either react with fiber or retained by it with
physical forces called fixation.
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 Theories

Few basic concept to explain dye fiber interaction called theories.

Theory

Psychoch Fiber Solid

Physical Chemical Pigment
emical complex solution

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 Chemical Theory
 Dye and fibre, both possess required group to develop dye-
fibre attachment through chemical bonding.
 Nature of bond is mostly ionic, though in some cases, covalent
bond are also formed.
 Fastness of dyeing depend upon number of reactive sites
attached to the fibre- the greater the number of sites
attached the better the wash fastness.
 After half-time dyeing electrolyte is added for further
exhaustion of bath.
 Example:- dyeing of cotton with reactive dyes. Somewhere,
rate of dyeing is so fast that retarding or leveling agents are
applied at the start of dyeing to ensure level dyeing through
reduction in rate of dyeing.
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 Physical Theory

• Dyes after application are physically retained by fiber through

hydrogen bond and vander waals forces.
• Fastness of dyeing depends on size of dye molecule and its
solubility in water- the larger the size and lesser the
solubility, the better the fastness.

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 Physico-chemical Theory

 Dyes are applied to form physical bonds with fiber.

 To improve fastness of dyed textile, size of dye molecule is
increased by reacting the dye chemically with some other
external chemical or dye known as after treatment.
 One component must be dye and the second component is
either a dye or a chemical.
 Example:- After treatment of direct dyeing with either of metal
salt, formaldehyde, basic dye.

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 Fibre Complex theory

 Dye is incapable of enter into fiber matrix by itself due to

larger structure and lack of affinity and is produced in-situ by
means of reacting two different chemical under favourable
condition.
 The first component is applied to the textile by padding or
exhaust method followed by reacting previously treated textile
with second component.
 In some cases, the two component are mixed and
simultaneously applied reaction takes place when the treated
fabric is after treated under favourable conditions.
 The desired colour is developed only after coupling.

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 Pigment or mechanical Theory

• The colouring material possesses no reactive sites, has no

affinity for fiber and is insoluble in water and other solvent.
• Dyeing is generally carried out in aqueous emulsion along
with a binder.
• The latter on curing establish cross-link with textile and
trap pigment on fibre surface.
• Though fastness properties are good, but it depends strictly on
the longevity of the film. Fabrics become stiffer.
• Example:- dyeing of any fiber with pigment colour. The
colour is retained by the fiber mechanically and no pigment-
fiber attachment exist.

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 Solid Solution Theory

 Both the phases are solid dyestuff and fiber, but when the dye
is applied under suitable condition, it gets passage inside fiber
resulting a solid-solid solution mechanism.
 Dyestuff are retained within the fiber with physical forces.
 Fastnesses of dyeing are good in some cases( polyester) and
not good in other cases(Nylon). Dyeing is done at higher
temperature, when the fiber structure is opened up paving
adequate passage to the dye. The dye gets mechanically
deposited on fiber surface diffuse inside and is trapped due to
collapse in fiber structure during cooling.
 Example:- Dyeing of man-made with disperse dye.

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 Classification of Dye

There are several ways for classification of dyes:-

 Based on Origin of Dyes:
 Based on application of Dyes:
 Based on their Chromophore group

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 Classification Based on Origin of Dyes:

• A very common classification of the dyestuff based on the

origin from which it is introduced.

Origin

Natural Synthetic

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 Natural Dyes

• Natural dyes are derived from nature through organic and

inorganic materials or sources.

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 Natural Dye
Classification according to source: Depending on their origin or
the sources from which they are produced, natural dyes can be
grouped into three distinct classes:

Natural Dyes

Plant source Insect source Mineral source

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 Dyes derived from plant sources

Plant dye

Leaves Roots Fruit Bark Flower

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 Leaves

 The dyes which are obtained from the leaves of plants are:-

Leaves

Heena Guava Mango

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 Leaves

Henna (Lawsonia inermis):-also called Mehndi .

 Colouring properties are due to lawsone.
Guava (Psidium guajava):- Quercetin having the
coloring effect on textile material.
Mango (Mangifera indica): Mangiferin a chemical that is
responsible for colour .

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 Fruit

 The dyes which are obtained from the fruit of plants are :-

Fruit

Harda Kamala Pomegranate

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 Fruit

 Harda (Black Myrobalan): It is used for dyeing of wool and

silk and cotton fabrics.
 It gives yellow and grey shades .
 Kamala dye: Gives yellow shades.
 It is used for dyeing on wool and silk fabrics.
 Pomegranate (Anar,): It gives yellow colour shades.

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 Flower

 The dyes which are obtained from the flower of plants are:-

Flower

Dhaura
Saffron Safflower
ka fool

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 Flower
 Dhaura ka fool:- Red /Pink/brown shades with good fastness.
 Safflower petals contain carthamin, which produces red, and
safflower yellow B, which produces an orange-yellow color.
Healthline adds that safflowers were traditionally used to dye
silk yellow or red.
 Saffron's blossoms contain a coloring pigment in their
stigmas, which are the long tube-like structures inside the
middle of the blossoms. This coloring pigment is called crocin,
and it is a distant relative of vitamin A. The stigmas are dried
and used for dyeing.

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 Roots
 The dyes which are obtained from the roots of plants are

Roots

Himalayan Al (Ali ki
Turmeric Alizarin
rhubard Lakdi)

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 Roots

• Turmeric: also called “Indian saffron”

 It is used for textile painting and printing in India.
• Himalayan rhubard: It gives yellow and orange shades
 It is used for dyeing of wool and silk fiber .
• Alizarin: It gives pink, red and purple shades
• Al (Ali ki Lakdi): It gives pink/red shades.

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 Bark

 The dyes which are obtained from the leaves of plants are

Bark

Catechu Walnut Arjun

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 Bark

• Catechu (Kikar, Babul): It is used for dyeing of cotton

fabrics .
 It gives brown, yellow, grey and black shade.
• Walnut (Akhrot):-This gives brown shade.
 It is used for dyeing of silk and wool fiber .
• Arjun (White murdah):-It gives Red /Pink shades

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 Nuts

• Dyes obtained from the nut is Manju phal.

 Fabric dyed:-Wool and Silk
 Shades:- Cream and Grey

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 Insect origin

Insect

Tyrian
Cochineal Kermes LAC
Purple

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 Insects

• LAC:- Lacifer Lacca insects

 It is used for dyeing of wool, silk and cotton fabric.
 It gives reddish shades with tin mordant and purplish shades
with copper mordant.
 Tyrian purple is the most highly prized ancient dye stuff,
obtained from the juices of certain species of snails found in
the waters of the Mediterranean Sea.
 Kermes consists of dried bodies of a variety of insects which
lives on a species of oak.

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 Mineral Origin
• The most important mineral pigments are as follows:

Mineral

Lapis Lampblack
Ochre Charcoal
Lazuli and Soot

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 Minerals

• Ochre: It refers to a number of colored clays or iron

oxides used as art pigments.
 These are commonly yellow or red colored.
• Iron buff: iron springs, containing iron salts in solution are
found in many countries with colour sediments left when the
water stands exposed to the air. Dipping clothes in these
springs and then exposing them to the air dyed them in iron
rust colour commonly called as ”iron buff”.
 Mineral khaki, a mineral colouring matter has been used to
dye military uniforms. Today instead of iron scrap, ferrous
sulphate is being used.
• .
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• Charcoal: It results from the calcination of burned organic
matter.
 It gives dark charcoal to create bold outlines

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 Synthetic Dye
A synthetic dye is any of the organic dyes originally derived from
coal tar derivatives, but currently synthesized from benezene and
its derivatives. The first human-made organic dye, mauveine was
discovered by William Henry Perkin in 1856.

Synthetic dyes

Water soluble Water insouble Ingrain dye

Direct Acid Basic Reactive Vat Sulphur

Disperse Azoic dye

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 Water
soluble

Direct Reactive Basic Acid

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 Direct
 Water soluble
 Fabric dyed:- (cotton, viscose) .
 Auxilaries used :- Dye bath + salt.
 Fastness properties :-Moderate light fastness & Poor washing
fastness.
 Advantage: cheap, easily dyed on fibers
 Disadvantage: poor wet fastness and somedyes have poor
light fastness

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 Basic

 Water soluble (Cationic) .

 Fabric dyed:- Acrylics (also occasionally protein fibres).
 Auxilaries used:- Leveling agent, retarding agent and Acid.
 Fastness properties:-Good washing fastness.
 Products:- Furnishings, apparel fabrics
 Advantages:- Bright shades, excellent tinctorial strength

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 Acid
 Water soluble (anionic)
 Fabric dyed:- Protein fibres (wool, silk)
 Auxilaries Used:- Acid + glaubers salt
 Fastness Properties:-Good light fastness.
 Products:- Carpet yarns, dress goods, Suitings, overcoats ,
knitting yarns.

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 Reactive

 Water soluble (anionic)

 Fabric dyed:- Cellulosic s (also protein and polyamid e
fibres) .
 Auxilaries used:- Salt, Soda Ash and fixing agent.
 Fastness Properties:- Excellent washing & light fastness.
 Products:- Curtains, furnishings, apparel fabrics, towelling,
sewing threads.
 Advantages:- Excellent shade range.
High fastness due to covalent dye/fibre bond

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 Water
insouble

Vat Sulphur Disperse

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 Vat

 Insoluble in water (nonionic)

 Fabric dyed:- Cellulosic (cotton, viscose)
 Auxilaries used:- Alkali + reducing agent - to produce the
anionic LEUCO solubilised form.
 Fastness properties:- Excellent
 Products:- High quality curtains, furnishin g, shirts, towels,
sewing threads.
 Disadvantage:- Expensive
Bright colours often difficult to achieve

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 Disperse

• Insoluble in water (nonionic )

• Fabric dyed:- All synthetics.
• Auxilaries used:- Carriers, Dispersing agent , Levelling ageny
and Acid.
• Fastness properties:- Moderate to good washing fastness.
• Products:- Apparel fabrics, bed sheets, carpets.

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 Sulphur

 Water Insoluble.
 Produce dull colours such as navy blue, brown and black.
 Fabric dyed:- natural and manmade cellulosic fibres
particularly cottons and Rayon’s.
 Auxilaries used :- Sodium sulphite.
 Products:- used for heavy woven and knitted cotton as well as
linen and jute.

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 Ingrain dye:
a) Azoic Dyes:-Produced within the fiber surface.

Naptholation Diazotization Coupling

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 Azoic dye
 One of the compounds is known as naphthol or coupling
component and the second diazotised amine or diazo
component.
 They react with each other to produce water insoluble dye.
 Thus the method of application consists of treatment of the
cloth first with naphthol followed by treatment with diazotised
amine. After the development of shade the fabric must be
thoroughly soaped to remove the loosely held pigment.

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 Classification of Synthetic dyes
according to application
Name of Dyes Application
Man made fiber (Nylon),
Acid dye Natural fiber (Silk, Wool)
Man made fiber (Viscose),
Direct Dye Natural fiber (Cotton)
Man made fiber (Viscose),
Vat dye Natural fiber (Cotton, Silk, Wool)
Disperse dye Nylon, Polyester, Acrylic, Tri-acetate, Di-acetate
Basic dye Jute, Acrylic
Reactive dye Cotton, Wool, Silk, Viscose, Nylon
Sulfur dye Cotton, Viscose
Mordant dye Cotton, Wool, Silk
Pigment Cotton, Man made fiber
Mineral Cotton, Wool, Silk
Azoic dye Cotton, Viscose

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 Classification of dye according to
chemical constitution:-
 Nitro & Nitroso group
 Azo Dyes
 Triarylmethane Dyes
 Anthraquinone Dyes
 Indigo Dyes

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 Nitro Dyes

• Nitro dyes are polynitro derivatives of phenols containing at

least one nitro group ortho or para to the hydroxyl group.It is
used to dye wool.It Consist of two or more aromatic rings
(benzene, naphthalene).Example: Napthol Yellow S

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 Azo Dyes

• These dye contain at least one azo group (-N=N-) attached to

one or often two aromatic rings.
• These dyes are used primarily for bright red shades in dyeing
and printing.
• Azoic dyes, called Naphthols in the industry.
• Example :- Congo Red

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 Triarylmethane dyes

• Triarylmethane dyes are synthetic organic compounds

containing triphenylmethane backbones. These compounds are
intensely colored and are produced industrially.
• In triarymethane dyes a central carbon is bonded to three
aromatic rings, one is in the quinoid form. Auxochromes
areNH2 , NR2 and OH.

• Malachite Green is used as a direct dye for wool and silk.

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 Anthraquinone

• Anthraquinone dye, any of a group of organic dyes having

molecular structures based upon that of anthraquinone.
• Alizarin is the main ingredient for the manufacture of the
madder lake pigments known to painters as Rose madder and
Alizarin crimson.

• Alizarin is also used commercially as a red textile dye

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 Indigo

• Indigo dye is an organic compound with a distinctive blue

color Historically, indigo was a natural dye extracted from
plants. But today nearly all indigo dye is produced
synthetically.
• It contains carbonyl chromophore.

• The primary use for indigo is as a dye for cotton yarn, which is
mainly for the production of denim cloth for blue jeans
• Small amounts are used for dyeing wool and silk.

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 Selection of dyes

• The selection of dyes of a particular class depends up on various

considerations such as:-
 Cost of dyeing
 Environment friendly
 Availability of the required shades
 Fastness of dyed materials
 Brightness of shades
 Ease of dyeing.
 Compatible to other dyes and chemicals
 High color strength
 Better brightness
 Good levelness on the materials

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 DYEING FORMS

 FIBRE
 YARN
 FABRIC
 GARMENTS

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 SEMI – CONTINUOUS DYEING
 In this method the fabric is impregnated (about 500-1000 mts.)
With the dye liquor by padding and it is wound on a roller
known as batch roller,
 After winding certain length of cloth on the roller the process
is discontinued and the subsequent length of cloth are
impregnated with the same dye liquor or other depending on
the shades required.
 Thus several batches of cloth are made in this way,
 Each batch is then wrapped up with polyethylene sheet and
stored for 2- 24 hrs., depending on the dyeing conditions.
 During this period the fixation of dye would take place.
 All the batches are then subjected to washing.
 This particular method is most suitable for dyeing of cotton
with reactive dye and is know as pad – batch method.
 CONTINUOUS METHOD
 In this method of dyeing, the fixation or development and the
washing of the unfixed dye is carried out in a continuous
manner.
 The undyed cloth fed at one end of the machine. It comes out
from other end in completely dyed and dry condition.
 All these equipment run in tandem and their speeds are
synchronized. The continuous dyeing range is most
economical when large yardages of cloth are to be dyed in a
single shade.

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 Batch Method
• In this method the dyeing is carried out in small batches.
About 500 – 2500 mts. of fabric can be at a time depending on
the type of equipment used.
• The equipments available are designed on three principles:
fabric stationary, dye liquor moving: - beam dyeing m/c.
• For the dyeing of pet or pet/cotton blends. Both fabric and dye
liquor moving: - jet dyeing m/c.
• In winch and jet dyeing m/c. The fabric is dyed in the rope
form, whereas, in case of all other m/cs. The dyeing of fabric
is carried out in the open width form.

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 Method of
Dyeing

Solution Fiber Yarn Fabric Garment

Beck/Win
Dope Stock Skein Paddle
ch

Rotary
Gel Top Package Jet
Drum

Tow Beam Jig

Space Beam

Pad
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 Solution Dyeing
• This is the method of dyeing in which the dye or pigment is
added to the spinning solution before the extraction of
filaments/ fibres through the spinnerets. The addition of dye or
pigment to the spinning solution before it is forced through
the spinnerets. Solution dyeing, also called mass pigmentation
and dope dyeing. This method of dyeing is generally used in
the production of manmade fibres so as to save a great deal of
money and time. Most olefin fibres are solution dyed.It can be
categorized into two such as:-
 Dope Dyeing
 Gel Dyeing

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 Dope Dyeing

 In this method, the colouring agent is added to the liquid

spinning solution of manmade fibre before it is extruded from
a spinneret.
 The liquid spinning solution is sometimes called as fibre dope.
Hence the term “dope dyeing”. The colour becomes part of the
fibre itself, and is thus permanent.
 Almost perfect colour reproduction consistency from dye lot
to dye lot can be achieved by solution dyeing

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 Dope Dyeing

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• Fiber Dyeing: Fiber Dyeing is the method of dyeing fibers
before blending with other colors to give fancy yarns or
fabrics.It can be categorized into three such as:-
 Stock Dyeing
 Top Dyeing

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 Stock Dyeing
 Stock dyeing refers to the dyeing of fibres, or stock, before it
is spun in to yarn.
 It is done by putting loose, unspun fibres in to large vats
containing the dye solutions, which are then heated to proper
temperature. From 500-3000 pounds of fibre are dyed at one
time. The average being about 1000 pounds.
 Stock dyeing usually results in excellent penetration of the dye
in to the fibre and evenness of colour throughout
 Stock dyeing is not used for worsted since the combing
process removes short fibres. This would be a waste of money.

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 Stock Dyeing

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 Top Dyeing

 Top is the wool that has been combed to take out the short
fibres, and then delivered from the combs in the rope like form
about ¼ th inches thick.
 Tops, the loose ropes of wool from the combing machine, are
wound in to balls, placed on perforated spindles, and enclosed
in a tank.
 The dye is pumped back and forth through the wool.
 Continuous processes on loose fibre and wool tops are also
used using a pad-steam technique.

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 Yarn Dyeing
• Yarn dyeing as the name implies dyeing of yarns before they
have been woven or knitted in to fabrics. Yarn dyeing is used
to create interesting checks, stripes and plaids with different-
colored yarns in the weaving process. In yarn dyeing, dyestuff
penetrates the fibers in the core of the yarn. This is one of the
oldest systems of dyeing textiles. The dyeing is done after the
fibre has been spun in to yarns. Yarns may be dyed in different
forms such as:-
 Skein (Hank) Dyeing
 Package dyeing
 Warp beam dyeing
 Space dyeing
 Chain Dyeing
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 Hank dyeing

 This dyeing consists of immersing large, loosely wound hanks

(skeins) of yarn in to dye vats which are especially designed
for this purpose. The loose arrangement of the yarn allows for
excellent dye penetration. The skeins are hung over a rung and
immersed in the dye bath in a large container.
 Skein dyed yarn is used to a considerable extent for suiting
and dress goods.
 Soft, lofty yarns such as hand knitting yarns are usually skein
dyed.

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 Hank Dyeing

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 Package Dyeing

 Yarns are wound on spools, cones or similar units and then

dyed is referred to as package dyed yarn.
 About a pound of the yarn is wound on a small perforated
spool or tubes called as packages.
 Many spools fit in to the dyeing machine in which the flow of
the dye bath alternates from the centre to the outside and then
from the outside to the centre of the package under pressure to
penetrate the entire yarn as thoroughly as possible.
 Most carded and combed cotton that is used for knitted outer
wear is package dyed.

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 Package Dyeing

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 Warp Beam Dyeing

 Beam dyeing is simply a much larger version of package

dyeing.
 This method is similar to package dyeing but is more
economical.
 Yarn is wound on to a perforated warp beam or perforated
cylinders, which is then placed in the beam dyeing machine
where the flow of the dye bath alternates as in package dyeing.
 It is used when fabrics are to be woven with dyed warp yarns

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 Wrap Beam Dyeing

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 Space dyeing

 A variation in plain-yarn dyeing is space dyeing, in which the

yarns, either Warp or filling are dyed by dipping or spotting
various parts along the yarn.
 Yarn that is space dyed is dyed at intervals along its length.
 One procedure is the knit-deknit method in which the yarn is
knitted on either a circular or flat bed knitting machine set to
produce the desired size of loop.
 This gives a streaky appearance to the fabric that is woven
from space dyed yarns.
 On wool, space dyeing is affected by knit process.

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 Fabric Dyeing
• The dyeing of cloth after it is being woven or knitted is known as piece
dyeing. The various methods used for this type of dyeing include jet
dyeing. Jig dyeing, pad dyeing and beam dyeing. This is very popular
method of dyeing as the dyed fabrics will be processed further to garment
industries very easily. The fabric dyeing can be categorized into five
categories such as:-
 Beck/Winch Dyeing
 JIG dyeing
 Jet Dyeing
 Pad Dyeing
 Union dyeing
 Cross Dyeing

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 Beck dyeing

 It is also known as box dyeing.

 The fabric pieces are sewn end to end, making lengths of material of up to
about 1000 yards.
 Long lengths of cloth that are to be dyed on a continuous process are very
often beck- dyed on a continuous process is very often beck-dyed by
passing the fabric in a tension free rope-form through the dye bath.
 The rope of cloth moves over a rail on to a reel which immerses in to the
dye and then draws the fabric up and forward to the front of the machine.
 The process is repeated as long as necessary to dye the material uniformly
to the desired intensity of colour.
 It is used on knitted fabrics, woolen and worsted woven clothes, as well as
fabrics with surface texture effects.

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 Winch/Beck Dyeing

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 JIG dyeing

 In this process, fabrics stretch across two rollers placed above

a stationary bath.
 In jig dyeing, the fabric is held on rollers at full width rather
than in rope form as it is passed through the dye bath.
 This procedure places some tension on the goods, causing
flattening and a loss of fullness. If there is uneven tension on
the material, a slight variation in the shade may appear either
from the centre of the fabric to the selvedge, or from one end
to the other.
 Acetate, rayon and nylon are usually jig dyed.

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 Jig Dyeing

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 Jet Dyeing

 Jet dyeing is somewhat similar to beck dyeing; however, the

fabric being dyed is circulated through the dyeing machine on
a jet flow of the dye bath.
 Fabric may be jet dyed by placing it in a heated tube or
column where jets of dye solution are forced through it at
pressure of up to 300 pounds per jet.
 Dye is continually recirculated as the cloth is moved along the
tube at speeds of up to 300 yards per minute. The fluid moves
faster than the cloth so that the cloth floats through the tube
without touching the walls.
 This method is not only fast but also very through, and rope
marks may be avoided.
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 Jet Dyeing

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 Union Dyeing
 This is suitable for fabrics containing two fibres to dye them in
a single uniform colour, each dye suitable for one kind of fibre
in the blend.
 Union dyeing is same as cross dyeing except that instead of
multi-colour effects. One solid colour is produced. The dyer
accomplishes this by using two or more classes of dye, each of
the same colours.
 Used typically to dye blends of fibres.
 It is a single step to dye a garment that comprises of a
cellulosic fibre, such as cotton or rayon, with either wool,
another animal fibre and nylon.

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 Union Dyeing( Cotton/Polyester Blend)

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 Pad Dyeing

 Pad dyeing is the method in which the fabric is run through the
dye bath in open width and then between the squeeze rollers
that force the dye in to the fabric.
 Pad dyeing, like jig dyeing places tension on the fabric while it
is passing through the pad, with a tendency towards flattering
and loss of the full hand of a material.
 Most pad dyeing is done as part of a continuous dye system or
continuous dye range.
 Large quantities of fabric are continuously run through a pad,
then in to a heat or steam chambers (to set the dye), then in to
washers, rinsers and dryers and finally emerging as completely
dyed fabrics.
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 Pad Dyeing

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 Cross Dyeing

 A special type of dyeing in which a yarn, fabric or even a

garment made with two or more kinds of fibre having different
dyeing qualities is dyed in single bath containing two different
class of dyes in which each kind of dye colours only one type
of fibre.
 Cross dyeing is a cheaper and a quicker way to produce the
same effects obtained by other dyeing methods.
 If yarns of one kind of fibre and yarns of another fibre are
used in the warp direction, vertical stripes are formed

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 Cross dyeing (Silk& linen)

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 Garment/Product Dyeing
• Garment dyeing, as its name implies, is the dyeing of complete
garments such as shirts. It is performed by placing garments
into mesh or net bags and immersing them into vats of dye.
Garments inside the bag should be loosely packed for even
coloring. This type of dyeing method is not suitable for
tailored clothing such as suits and dresses due to possible
distortion. The types of apparel that can be dyed are mostly
non-tailored and simpler forms, such as sweaters, sweatshirts,
T-shirts, hosiery, and pantyhose. It can be categorized into two
form such as :-
 Paddle Dyeing
 Rotary Drum
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 Paddle Dyeing

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 Rotary Drum

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 References
• Aspland, J. R. (1997) Textile Dyeing and Coloration. Research Triangle
Park, N.C.: American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists.
• Chakraborty, J.N. (2010) “Fundamentals and practices in colouration of
textiles”, New Delhi, Woodhead Publications.
• Corbman, B.P. (1985) Textiles fibre to fabric, McGraw-Hill Book
Company.
• Daniel, M., Arya, A. and Raole, V.M. (2006) Natural Dyes: Scope and
challenges”, Vadodara, Scientific Publicater.
• Vatsala, R. (2003) Text book of textiles and clothing, Indian council of
agricultural research. viii)Hall. A.J., 1955, Hand book of Textiles dyeing
and printing, The National Trade Press.
• Venkatraman, K. (1952) “The chemistry of synthetic dyes” Volume-I, New
York, Academic press.

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• Gohl, E.P.G and Vilensky, L.D. (1987) Textile science, CBS Publishers and
distributors. pp: 120.
• Gopalkrishanan, D. and Karthik, T. (2016) “Basic of textile chemical
processing”, New Delhi, Daya Publication.
• Norma Hollen and Jane Saddler (1979) Textiles, 5 th Edition, Macmillan
Publishings.Co., Inc. New York.
• Perkins, Warren S. (1996) Textile Coloration and Finishing. Durham, N.C.:
Carolina Academic Press.
• Sharma, R.N. (1972) A handbook of dye, pigment and colour technology”,
Ist edition, Delhi, Emerson printing.
• Shenai, V.A. (1987) “Chemistry of dyes and principles of dyeing”, 3 rd
edition, Mumbai, Sevak Publications.
• Society of Dyers and Colourists, and the American Association of Textile
Chemists and Colorist. (1971-1992) The Colour Index International. 3rd
ed. West Yorkshire, England: Bradford.

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