MIRPUR UNIVERSITY OF SCIENCE AND TECHNOLOGY (MUST), MIRPUR

DEPARMENT OF BIOTECHNOLOGY
 Lab Testing
Dyeing processing

Textile Chemistry-II
Introduction to Dyeing

• Dyeing is process in which textile substrate is colored by suitable substances

that is dyes or pigment (pigment dyeing). The former is widely used in textile
wet processing. A basic knowledge of dyeing process and related terms are
quite important to understand dyeing theory. Dyeing can be done at any stage
of the manufacturing of textile- fiber, yarn, fabric or a finished textile product
including garments and apparels. Textile materials can be dyed using batch,
continuous or semi-continuous processes. The type of process used depends
on several things including type of material (fiber, yarn, fabric, fabric
construction, and garment), generic type of fiber, size of dye lots and quality
requirements in the dyed fabric.

Textile Chemistry-II
Dyeing Process
Dye A dye is an organic colored compound which when applies to textile for imparting color
& strictly adheres with the textile substrate. Dyes should resistant to light, heat and wet
agencies. In textile terms, a soluble colorant that attaches in molecular form to the fibers. All
dye is a colored substance whereas all colored substances are not dyes. The dyes applied to
textile fibers should possess the following characteristics,
1. Stable & attractive color i.e. should not undergo structural changes easily
2. Posses affinity to the fibers
3. Soluble in water or any suitable medium otherwise it should form stable dispersion with
water or solvents
4. Fastness to light, washing, perspiration, dry cleaning agents and rubbing Dyestuff consist
of the constituents named as chromophores and Auxochrome.
5. Chromophores give the dye molecule its particular colour, while the Auxochrome
intensify the hue of the dye molecule’s colour, makes the dye molecule more water
soluble, and improve the colour fastness of the dyed fabric or printed fabric. Some
common chromophores groups are azo, quinonoid, nitro and nitroso groups whereas
Auxochrome are acidic such as carboxylic and Sulphonic groups and in basic
Auxochrome includes amino and hydroxyl groups.
Textile Chemistry-II
Substantivity
Tendency of a dye to move from a solution out of fibers in the dye solution. It is a quality
of dye. Without substantivity, most of dyes would simply remain in solution or dispersion
in the bath. The substantivity of dyes depend upon,
i. Molecular structure (shape)
ii. Size of molecule dye
iii. Dye bath conditions
This property of a dye determines how much dye is exhausted on to the fiber under neutral
conditions.
More substantive dye
Planar structure Less soluble
Poor leveling High wash fastness
High r.m.m* Less substantive dye Less Planar
More soluble Good leveling
Low wash fastness Low r.m.m*
Textile Chemistry-II
Affinity Attraction
Affinity Attraction between two items, in
dyeing affinity essentially means the
preferential attraction of the dye for the
fiber rather than for the solution of the
dye bath. It is quantitative expressing of
substantivity. Technically, affinity is
expressed in term of energy. Generally,
more substantivity dyes have low
affinity characteristic, it is due strike or
rush of dye molecule.

Textile Chemistry-II
Exhaustion
1.The process of transfer of dyestuff from the dye bath on to the
fiber or material is known as exhaustion. The ratio between the
amount of dye taken up by the substrate and the amount of dye
originally available. Relative molecular mass
2.Where,
3.Co = initial concentration of dye in dye bath
4.Cs = concentration during the process The exhaustion of
dyestuff is depend on,
5. i. Concentration of dye
6. ii. Concentration of salt
7. iii. Temperature iv. Agitation v. liquor ratio
Textile Chemistry-II
Adsorption
Absorption Dyes molecules from solution are taken up by certain textile
substrates which have porous surface i.e. cotton by the process adsorption.
Distribution of the dye stuff on to the surface of the fiber is known as adsorption.
Adsorption is depend on
i. Concentration ii. Temperature
iii. Dye nature iv. Pressure
v. Surface area
Distribution of liquor containing is dye stuff on to the whole of the fiber that is
on to the surface and inside of the fiber surface. The some factor are mentioned
below which affects the rate of absorption,
i. Time ii. Temperature.
iii. Alkalis iv. Electrolytes
v. Dyeing Auxiliaries vi. Liquor ratio
Textile Chemistry-II
Desorption Diffusion Transfer
Desorption Diffusion Transfer of dyestuff from the surface of the fiber in the liquor is
known as desorption. Desorption is reverse of dyeing process. This is a process by
which dye move from a surface of the fiber in to the fiber itself and vise versa. The
diffusion of given dyestuff is heavily influenced by temperature the higher the
temperature the greater the degree and rate of diffusion. Diffusion rate is also
depending on the crystallinity of the fabric structure. The expression is known as Fick’s
law and it gives a quantitative value to the diffusion of dye molecules from the outside
layers into the interior of the fiber:
ds/dt = -D dc/dx
Where, s = amount of dye diffusing across unit area; t = a small interval of time; c =
concentration of dye at a specified point x; x = the distance diffused; D diffusion
coefficient – it is preceded by a negative charge b/c the amount of diffusion is inversely
proportional to the value of dc/dx.

Textile Chemistry-II
Migration
•.
Migration is the process by which are dye move around the fiber or level itself. Transfer of
dyestuff from heavily dye to light dye portion of the same material during dyeing is known
as migration. The migration process comprises adsorption of dye on to the fiber surface,
migration through the dye liquor, re-adsorption onto the fiber surface since diffusion is the
rate determining step, in this dynamic process, migration itself is also heavily influenced by
temperature.
Dye stuff in a solution (Desorption) ↓↑ Dyestuff on the surface of fiber (Diffusion &
Absorption) ↓↑ Dyestuff in to the inside and whole the fiber The above complete process of
absorption, diffusion and desorption is known as migration.
The migration properties of dyestuff depend on dyes nature.

Textile Chemistry-II
Dyeing & Printing
•.
• color is one of the most significant factors in the appeal
& marketability of textile products
• manner in which color is added to a textile and the
chemical nature of the colorant contribute to product’s
• appearance
• performance
• rate of response to fashion change
• quality
• cost

Textile Chemistry-II
Color theory
•.

• complex phenomenon that combines

• the physics of light
• chemistry of colored objects
• biology of the eye
• behavioral sciences—social &
cultural meaning of color
• aesthetics

Textile Chemistry-II
Colorants—Pigments
•.
• insoluble color particles held on surface of a
fabric by a binding agent
• application is quick, simple & economical
• more than 80% of printed fabrics colored
with pigments
• fewer sustainability issues compared to dyes
• lower color strength—uses more pigment
• washdown can be a problem (losing color)
• used on short-run prints such
• as university logos
, • professional sports teams,
• event t-shirts, etc…
Textile Chemistry-II
Colorants—dyes
•.
• complex organic compounds used to add color to materials by binding to them
• molecules dissolved in in water or some other carrier that allows them to
penetrate the fiber—stage added affects penetration
• chemical additives used to regulate penetration
• great color strength
• small amount of dye colors large quantities of fabric
• used in either solutions or pastes (used for printing)
• thermoplastic fibers difficult to dye
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBN3hDIz88Y

Textile Chemistry-II
Stages of dyeing
• .• fiber stage—
• added to fibers before yarn spinning—slightly irregular color (heathered or mottled)
• mass pigmentation (solution-dyed)—adding colored pigments or dyes to spinning
solution before fiber is formed
• stock or fiber dyeing is expensive
• yarn stage—
• can be done with • yarn in skeins— skein dyeing • yarns wrapped on cones or
packages—
package dyeing • yarn wound on beams— beam dyeing • yarn-dyed fabrics more
expensive to produce— • larger inventories of yarn needed • threading loom •
considered to be better quality fabrics
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_wfagh_MZRw&feature=related

Yarn dyeing wool & kapok samples …using the wool & kapok samples created in the yarn spinning activity from
a previous class, select a color of kool-aid dye to experiment with …put both samples in the same color for
comparison purposes …leave in dye for duration of class

Textile Chemistry-II
stages of dyeing
• Piece/fabric
. stage
• piece dyeing—
• when bolt or roll of fabric dyed
• usually produces solid-color fabrics
• generally costs less to dye • color decisions can be delayed
• Cross dyeing—
• piece dyeing of fabrics (sometimes yarns) made of different generic fibers
• each fiber type bonds with a different dye class
• union dyeing— • another type of piece dyeing that uses dyes suited to each fiber
type, mixed to produce same hue
• Product stage— • after fabric is cut & sewn into finished product • great care must
be taken in handling materials & dyeing to produce level, uniform color • button,
thread, trim may be different color because of differences in dye absorption •
important due to quick response to retail & consumer demands

Textile Chemistry-II
Methods of Dyeing
• •. Batch dyeing— AKA exhaust dyeing—textile circulated through dye bath, can be
used in any stage of production
• beck (reel or winch) dyeing— fabric (in loose rope) lifted in and out of dye bath by a
reel
• jig dyeing— uses stationary dye bath with two rolls above bath—fabric carried
around rolls & rolled back and forth
• pad dyeing— fabric run through dye bath in open width then between squeeze
rollers to force dye into fabric with pressure
package dyeing— dye bath forced through textile during yarn stage
—wound on core and placed on perforated spindle in pressurized machine

Combination dyeing— • both textile & dye bath are circulated

jet dyeing— • similar to beck dyeing—fabric processed as continuous loop
paddle machines, rotary drums or tumblers— • used primarily for product dyeing
continuous machines— • used for large fabric lots—include compartments for
wetting-out, dyeing, after-treatment, washing, rinsing.

Textile Chemistry-II
Methods of Dyeing
•.
Resist dyeing—
• block color absorption during yarn or fabric dyeing •
Batik— • generally hand process using hot wax applied to
fabric in given design •
Tie dye— • hand process in which areas of yarn or fabric are
wrapped with thread or string •
Ikat— • ancient form of resist in which yarn is tied, dyed &
woven—requires great skill to determine placement of design in
finished fabric
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkFc0JNsmO0
Textile Chemistry-II
Printing Methods
•.
Direct printing—
• color is applied directly to fabric in pattern & location desired in finished fabric •
Block printing— • hand process;
Oldest technique— expensive & slow
Warp printing— • warp yarn printed before weaving
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LZ4_0shRurE
Discharge printing—
• piece-dyed fabrics in which design is made by removing color from selected fabric areas
• usually done on dark backgrounds
• screen printing
• incredibly versatile, simple process
• separate mesh screens used for each color
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=91Y59-gSBi8&NR=1&feature=fvwp
Textile Chemistry-II
Printing Methods
•.

Textile Chemistry-II
Printing Methods
• Digital
. printing—
• ink-jet printing
• heat-transfer printing
• design transferred to fabric from specially printed paper by heat & pressure
• electrostatic printing
• prepared screen covered with powdered dye; passes through electric field & pulled onto
material
• foil printing
• adhesive applied to fabric, foil heated on heat transfer press & bonds to adhesive pattern
• stencil printing
• separate pattern cut for each color, color is applied in thick paste or sprayed on with air
gun

Textile Chemistry-II
Printing
•.

used to add color to localized areas only

• allows for greater design flexibility and relatively inexpensive patterned fabric
• wet prints use a thick, liquid paste
• dry prints use a powder
• foam prints use a colorant dispersed in foam

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6iVicNDx-00&feature=related

Textile Chemistry-II
THANKS