Kilts & Tartan 4 - Choosing Tartans & Fabrics
Kilts & Tartan 4 - Choosing Tartans & Fabrics
Kilts & Tartan 4 - Choosing Tartans & Fabrics
Made Easy
CHAPTER 4 - CHOOSING YOUR TARTAN OR FABRIC
An expert insider’s frank views and simple tips
Dr Nicholas J. Fiddes
Founder, Scotweb
Governor,
This document is copyright Dr Nicholas J. Fiddes (c) 2006. It may be freely copied and circulated only in
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• Understanding Tartans
• Finding Your Own Tartans
• Tartan Variants made simple
• Finding Fabrics in your Tartans
• Can I just choose a Colour I Like?
• Other Materials than tartan & wool
• What is the right Weight of Fabric?
• Selecting a Weaving Mill
• What to do if yours is Not in Production
• Obtaining Tartan Swatches
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Firstly, let’s deal with a couple of con-
fusions. One is the distinction between
a tartan and a plaid. There is no dif-
ference. Arguably a tartan is the pat-
tern, and a plaid is the material. But
the words are used interchangeably.
Americans often talk of plaids, and in
Scotland we say tartans. I’m Scottish,
and I’m writing this. So there.
For most people, finding your tartans means first identifying the patterns that are
meaningful to you, then the variants these are woven in (if any). Or if you do not care
about having your own family tartan, you can skip to the bit about finding fabrics.
Understanding Tartans
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The Naming Tradition There is nothing to say a family or body can have
only one tartan. Far from it. So for some names
By post C19 tradition, each you may find multiple tartans. I do not mean the
tartan is given a name, mostly colour variants (Modern, Ancient, etc.) which
of (extended) families but also we’ll cover fully in the next section. But you
for other forms of organisa- might, say, find a ‘Fiddes of Edinburgh’, to dis-
tion. Originally particular tar- tinguish one branch of your family from another.
tans were at best a local weav-
ing ‘idiom’ — each area’s habit Or you could see a range of distinct tartans, each
and taste in colours and pat- strong in a particular hue. So we could have
terns. ‘Fiddes Red’, ‘Fiddes Green’, and so on. These
will often have an identical or similar pattern, but
Romantic enthusiasm by fig- using different colours for the threads.
ures like Queen Victoria and
Sir Walter Scott led to the There are a couple of recurring versions of these:
formalisation, or invention, of Dress and Hunting tartans. These are distinct
the tradition. Significantly this variants, based on similar themes but with differ-
began soon after the true clan ent thread counts (which makes them a different
system of government had tartan). Hunting tartans tend to have more
been defeated and dissolved. greens or other earth tones. Dress tartans have
more white. That’s it.
As each part of Scotland had a
dominant clan or family, char-
acteristic patterns were asso-
ciated with each name, some-
times even on the basis of a
single garment or portrait.
Wallace Blue
Dress
Wallace Hunting
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For the more common names, you will even
find variants on variants. I might one day
The story goes that Dress tartans choose to register a ‘Fiddes Hunting Red’
were born thanks to Queen Victoria and a ‘Fiddes Hunting Green’. Who knows?
(a “passionate advocate of all things
Scottish”). She wanted to follow her There are no rules about which variants of
uncle George IV in wearing Royal a tartan you should wear for any particular
Stewart tartan. Unfortunately she occasion. Some people find dress tartans a
could not. This plaid includes the col- good choice for weddings, just for their use
our red, at the time a signal for pros- of white. Others associate Hunting tartans
titution (as in our modern Red Light with country pursuits, if only for their
Districts). So white (for purity) was qualities as camouflage. But these names
introduced to replace red, and the do not carry any formal implication of when
Dress Stewart tartan was created. they should be worn.
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Once you have one or more promising names, your next task is to find out whether there
are any tartans recorded for these. At this stage you are just looking for any (to use my
own name, for example) ‘Fiddes’ family tartans.
The STA Tartan Ferret is a free searchable database of every registered tartan pattern.
Here, with a little ferreting around, you should with luck find a few patterns that you
could choose.
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If that doesn’t work, try names from fur-
ther back in your family tree. Each of
But my name’s not spelled that way! these is just as much part of your blood as
the name that has come down one paternal
If you don’t find a direct match for line. If that fails, there are tartans for re-
your surname, try variant spellings. gions and cities, if you know your family’s
So use Thomson instead of Thompson, origins.
Tomson or Tommassen.
Also look out for ‘septs’. Clans tradition-
Name spelling was formalised only re- ally gave protection to many other fami-
cently in historical terms. (Shake- lies. In fact, at times whole clans took to
speare is said to have spelled his own using other clans’ names for the security it
name at least six different ways.) offered, especially around 1745. If your
There is rarely much reason to be too family is listed as one of a clan’s septs, you
hung up on one spelling. can put on their tartan. So even a distant
forebear can yield a rich vein of heritage
to wear.
Time for a little more tartan theory. Before we go looking at actual fabrics, there’s
something else you need to know. You’ll find many tartans described in ways like ‘Fid-
des Hunting Modern’, ‘Fiddes Hunting Ancient’, or ‘Fiddes Hunting Weathered’. So
what are these?
In fact the ancient, modern, and weathered variants are not different tartans at all. A
tartan is defined by its pattern, remember. And these are all the same. They are just
woven in different hues of yarn. Almost any tartan in the world can be woven in these
alternative colourways.
The modern colours are the default colour scheme: the basis for all other versions.
They are relatively strong, bold, and dark, making the most use of the vibrancy avail-
able from contemporary dyestuffs.
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The ancient variants are more earthy by comparison. In conception, these represent a
return to the older colours of plant dyes, as distinct from the bolder synthetic dyes
which were already becoming common by Victorian times.
The weathered colours are intended to reflect what a piece of cloth might look like af-
ter many years of use. Imagine a fragment after being unearthed from the ground af-
ter a few hundred years! That’s the idea.
Ancient and weathered are both in fact all new, made to look old. It’s a matter of per-
sonal preference if you want the brighter look, or the more subtle.
Firstly, tartan thread counts never used to be written down. Very old patterns
are known from aged remnants (sometimes called ‘artifact’) or else from paint-
ings (called ‘portrait’). So most traditional tartan colours are ‘best guesses’.
Even once formal recording began, their colours were mostly described with a
broad brush, as ‘green’ or ‘red’. Even today tartan colours are usually only
loosely described (e.g. as ‘navy blue’ but not as a Pantone). So each weaving
mill will choose different yarns to weave them.
Next, like wallpaper, each weaving batch will differ slightly from the next. As a
natural product, this is inevitable.
Also, the same pattern, from the same mill, will look different when woven as a
heavier 16oz wool than as a 10oz. This is due to the tighter weave at lighter
weights. This effect is even more marked for different materials, such as silks,
polyviscose tartans, etc.
Finally, if you’re viewing a tartan online, remember that your own computer
monitor is probably not calibrated to design studio standards. Plus the web site
creator will inevitably have introduced at least a little colour error too. Some-
times more than a little.
So if you can get a swatch of actual fabric before ordering your kilt, do so. Or
trust to fate, and enjoy the shades you receive. This is how it was always done.
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Finding Fabrics in your tartans
Great. so now you’ve found one or more registered tartans. Next, you need to find
which of these are commercially available in a suitable material, or could be woven. At
any one time, upwards of 500 tartans will be available ‘off the shelf’, whilst almost any
can be woven to order for only a small oncost in as little as a single kilt length.
Here one resource on the web stands head and shoulders above the rest. It is the most
complete and comprehensive, listing all fabrics known to be in production at all the
main tartan (and tweed) weavers, plus thousands more that can be woven to order.
It is also, by common consent, the easiest to use. And here too I must declare an inter-
est since, as it happens, I designed it myself. This is the Scotweb Tartan & Fabric
Finder. (See Resources at end)
As with the STA’s Tartan Ferret, the easiest way to use this is to search. Just enter your
name, for a list of all matching surnames (or companies, etc.).
Clicking on one of these should list all corresponding unique tartans (equivalent to the
STA’s returns).
And clicking on any of these will show a list of all available fabric variants, including
colour schemes (see above), material choices (wools, silks, etc.), different weights, dif-
ferent weavers, etc.
There are also Advanced Search options on the first page, if you prefer to narrow your
searching to within any of the above types of category, such as only 13oz wools. This
makes it easy to find the fabric you want amongst the thousands of options.
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Can I just choose a Colour I Like?
Of course you can. Having a tartan linked with your own family is a nice option to
have. And it makes for a great story when telling people about your kilt.
There are a few private tartans whose registrants have decreed they are only for actual
family members. And there are some copyright tartans, such as the Burberry check, or
most corporate tartans. (And even then, Burberry is closely based on ‘Thomson Camel’
so there is very often a good substitute.) But other than such exceptions, anyone can
wear any tartan. And there is no better reason than that you love the colours!
And as you now know, the truth is that the formalisation of tartans being tied to specific
names is a relatively recent, mostly 19th century, invention. I think it’s a great tradi-
tion, and the sense of belonging it brings to millions is the sort of real social cement
that some may sneer at but we discard at our peril.
But despite that, the even older tradition was that different tartans were mostly a mat-
ter of taste, and of local cultural habits. It happened that these different localities
were lived in mostly by particular clans and families, and so the local tartans became
associated with them. But there is no true sense in which they owned the patent on
that pattern. So if you want to wear one, do!
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Other materials than tartan & wool
Black Leather
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Or what about combining the two ideas? Today a range of
‘black on black’ or ‘shadow’ tartans are on sale, which make a
subtle and stylish mark. As the name suggests, they replicate a
traditional tartan pattern in an all-black garment by combining
threads, each of which reflects light distinctly. From some an-
gles the sett effect is near-invisible.
Leather is also popular. The first firms to offer these were able
to demand astronomical prices. And some opportunists still
price theirs similarly. But there is little justification. A superb
leather kilt of any colour should cost little more than in a good
quality tartan. And by the way, if you are considering a leather
kilt, avoid any with a ‘fringe’. They look tawdry. A clean cut
apron edge is far nicer.
A popular choice, particularly cut as casual kilts for the fashionable look, are cotton ma-
terials. These come in many forms, including as denim or printed as camouflage fabric.
Each of these can come in a range of colourways so for example if you prefer a lighter
blue denim or a darker one, this is just a matter of choice.
And (unless your ‘kiltmaker’ is really just reselling cheaply mass-manufactured factory
garments) you should also be able to specify the colour of thread used for your kilt
should you wish. With a denim kilt this produces some very attractive finishes.
The bottom line is that a kilt can be made for you from practically any material of a
suitable weight for pressing. It can’t be too flimsy, or too heavy, as the pleats would
not work at either extreme. But for most materials in the middle, a good kiltmaker
should be able to work with almost any fabric of your choice. So here’s an idea if you
want your kilt to be totally unique. Why not ask to send your kiltmaker a sample of
your own material?
Tartans in pure new wool come in a range of materials from light weight to regimental
weight and it is tartans I shall discuss. (Though similar principles apply to fabrics from
other materials.) Weavers may give each range an evocative name, such as ‘Strome’ or
‘Braeriach’ at Lochcarron. But it’s the weight that matters.
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Kilts are most commonly made either in what are
termed “heavy weight” fabrics, normally identified What does “16oz” measure?
as 16oz, or in “medium weight” at roughly 13oz.
I’ll bet you don’t know. The
But a kilt can successfully be made in lightweight ounce units commonly used to
material as low as 10oz if required, or as heavy as describe tartan weights measure
18oz (‘regimental weight’). Both of these in par- the imperial weight of a linear
ticular involve some compromises. yard of material, as actually
woven, at double width. So
when woven at single width, a
Regimental Weight fabric is favoured mostly by the 16oz fabric should technically be
military and by pipe bands. It is harder wearing for called 8oz. But that would be
the heavier duty use their garments have to endure. confusing!
The thicker fabric holds its pleats extremely well
and should require pressing less frequently. It is also 16oz = 453g ; 1 yard = 91.5cm
distinctly warmer, which can be a boon in cold cli-
mates, but less so in warmer ones.
The sheer weight of 18oz material can also be a curse. It is literally a lot to carry
around from dawn to dusk. On the other hand, centrifugal force ensures the most mag-
nificent swing with every turn, as the pleats’ weight carries them outwards. Note too —
tradition dictates that tartan flashes are never worn with an 18oz kilt. The regiments
who wear these invariably wear diced hose instead. This taboo is so strong that some
kiltmakers will refuse to supply tartan flashes with a regimental weight kilt.
Another good reason for choosing this weight might be if the tartan on which you have
set your heart is only available from the mills at this weight. This can happen, as tar-
tans are also widely woven for ladies’ skirts, where the lighter fabric is ideal.
The swing will be a little less impressive; a light weight kilt will need its pleats re-
pressed (e.g. by ironing) more regularly; its thinner apron will provide a man with less
‘modesty’ when worn without a sporran; and its lesser warmth may be an issue for
some. But despite all that, it can be a good choice for some purchasers.
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Which weaving mill?
For the more common tartans (e.g. a Black Watch, or Royal Stewart) several mills may
well offer the pattern from stock at almost any time, and in a full range of weights.
If the tartan you want is available in the weight you want, off the shelf, from a choice
of mills, then you are in luck. You can then choose by price, or consider small colour
differences by ordering a swatch of each to feel and look at.
Bear in mind too when choosing your kiltmaker that many firms supply fabrics made by
only one or two of the main mills. In fact it is exceptional for a company to deal with
all the weavers. For common tartans, there is no reason this should be a serious prob-
lem. But if they try to deceive you into believing a more specialist fabric is not avail-
able when you know it to be so, you would be wise to walk away.
At the other end of the spectrum, the sad fact is that most registered tartans are rarely
if ever actually produced. They cannot be bought off the shelf at any time. Many are
woven once then never again.
So do not presume that just because you have found your favourite tartan you can have
a piece of it in your hand next week. But there are more options, of which more below.
There are several reasons why your chosen tartan might not be available from stock.
For one thing, not all tartans will be available in all weights. If it is a common pattern,
there is a good chance that it will be made in the weight you want by one or other mill.
For rarer patterns, there will be fewer choices.
It might also be a copyright tartan, for use exclusively by members of a specific group,
such as a company. If this is the case, you will not be able to obtain it, even woven to
order (below) except with the permission of the copyright holder. It would be your task
to obtain this.
It might also have sold out. Even for the common patterns, weaving a tartan is a sig-
nificant undertaking for any mill. The weavers plan their production cycles around pro-
jected demand. But sales are inevitably erratic, and a large trade order for example
can take all the mills’ stocks of a particular pattern at a moment’s notice. That can
then leave a period of weeks or months before it will be available again. This is one
reason why you should always order as early as possible for any important deadline.
There are also a range of medium-popular tartans. These drift in and out of produc-
tion, for example with the cycles of fashion in terms of which colours are popular each
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year. With these tartans, stocks can stay on the shelf for a long time, until they are
sold out. Then it might be years before they are woven again.
And of course there are all the thousands of registered tartans which are never woven
for stock. So what should you do if you want one of these? You really have three
choices.
The first is simply to choose another tartan. But if you have just made up your mind in
favour of a pattern you like above all others this will be the least desirable option.
A second option is to have one of the major mills weave a full bale for you. This will
work out a little more cheaply per yard, but only because the mill will have a minimum
order of typically 30-70 yards. This is too much for most domestic purchasers unless you
have an extended family you can persuade to buy into the deal. Also, it will take a few
months to be produced.
The final option is to have a short piece woven to order by a specialist weaver. The
minimum amount available on this basis will normally be a single eight yard kilt
length. As old local weavers have closed this service is becoming harder to find. But
there are still a few companies able to do so, my own amongst them.
The price per yard will be a little higher than for material produced in bulk and bought
off the shelf, but not always by much. And at least in our own case, the schedule in-
cluding kilt making can still work out at around three months. So for most rarer tartans
this is a surprisingly realistic option.
Swatches
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Many kiltmakers will make a small charge
for this service. This may seem high for a
piece of fabric measuring only a few
inches square. But most will then deduct
that cost from the price of any subse-
quent sale of a kilt in that tartan.
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Resources and references
For your questions about kilts and tartan, my service team will be glad to help:
UK (freephone) 0800 634 8640 US & Canada (toll free) 1-888-SCOTWEB World: +44 131 452 8356
Acknowledgements
Images
Pleating image p. 14 (c) Blair Urquhart reproduced with permission
Flashes image p. 48 (c) Matthias Pabst reproduced with permission
All other images (c) Scotweb Marketing Ltd
Thanks
To contributors too numerous to single out for mention, but mighty thanks anyway!
Prestonfield House Hotel & Waterfront Wine Bar for location shoots
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