JACKET

MERCY

SIZES
34–52

DIFFICULTY

INTERMEDIATE
 FROM THE FOUNDER
OF THE #VIKISEWS BRAND

Back in 2016, when I was working on my first

set of sewing instructions, I was trying to write
them in such a way that even a complete beginner
could easily understand and use them to create
their very first garment. These instructions laid
the foundation for the Vikisews brand, its vision
and its mission. I wanted to create modern patterns
with the utmost detailed and clear instructions.

Now, with each new collection we are constantly

improving our instructions, amending them and
adding more relevant details. By the time the final
product reaches you, our drafters, correctors, and
editors would have spent weeks perfecting every
word and every photograph. If you compile a few
of our instructions together, you will get a sewing
manual that will assist you in sewing all kinds of
garments at any difficulty level.

And I would be very happy if these instructions

helped you to turn your hobby into a lifelong
passion… Enjoy the process! Create your ultimate
dream wardrobe! Wear your garments proudly for
years to come!

If you have any questions, please contact us at

[email protected] — we are always there to
help.
 MERCY PATTERN DESCRIPTION
Mercy is a semi-fitted, fully lined jacket with a straight silhouette. It has
front patch pockets and a round neckline. The set-in sleeves are long and
semi-fitted. They feature elbow seam vents that close with buttons and
buttonholes. All outer edges of the garment are finished with decorative
crochet trim. The jacket has a single-breasted button and buttonhole
closure and is below-waist length.
 IMPORTANT!

The contents of this pattern are copyright protected and belong exclusively
to Vikisews. You may use Vikisews patterns for personal use. It is prohibited
to share Vikisews patterns and instructions with third parties, as well as to
publish patterns and instructions online for public access. Non-compliance
with the mentioned rules is a violation of the US copyright law and may
result in civil liability and criminal prosecution.

You may use Vikisews patterns for commercial use, to sew custom-made
garments and/or create fashion collections, on the condition that the patterns
are solely used in a manufacturing setting and are not further shared with
individuals.
TOTAL EASE ALLOWANCE
Bust ease Waistline ease Upper arm ease

сm 16.8–18.3 36.9 7.6–8.7

inches 6 5/8–7 1/4 14 1/2 3–3 3/8

GARMENT LENGTH, SLEEVE LENGTH

Height, cm Back length, cm Sleeve length, cm

1 (154–160) 46–48.8 59.2–60.7

2 (162–168) 48.1–50.1 61.2–62.7
3 (170–176) 51.1–52.9 63.1–64.6
4 (178–184) 54.1–55.9 65.1–66.5

Height, ft Back length, in Sleeve length, in

1 (5’1”–5’3”) 18 1/8–19 1/4 23 1/4–23 7/8

2 (5’4”–5’6”) 18 7/8–19 3/4 24 1/8–24 5/8
3 (5’7”–5’9”) 20 1/8–20 7/8 24 7/8–25 3/8
4 (5’10”–6’1”) 21 1/4–22 25 5/8–26 1/8

SUGGESTED FABRIC
To sew this jacket, choose soft, pliable suiting fabrics made of natural, artificial, synthetic fibers, or
blends.
Recommended fabrics: bouclé, tweed, wool suiting, gabardine.

The jacket in the photos is made of tweed. The fabric is medium-weight, pliable, without stretch.
The fiber content is a blend of cotton and polyester. The fabric weight is 350 g/m2. The lining is
100% viscose. The decorative crochet trim is made of 70% cotton and 30% silk.
FABRIC AND NOTIONS REQUIREMENTS

1. Main fabric, 140 cm wide, 300–350 g/m2, with a directional print/nap, in meters:

Size
Height, cm
34–40 42 44–48 50 52

1 (154–160) 1.05 1.1 1.1 1.15 1.2

2 (162–168) 1.1 1.15 1.15 1.25 1.25
3 (170–176) 1.15 1.15 1.2 1.3 1.3
4 (178–184) 1.2 1.2 1.25 1.35 1.35

Main fabric, 55” wide, 300–350 g/m2, with a directional print/nap, in yards:

Size
Height, ft
34–40 42 44–48 50–52

1 (5’1”–5’3”) 1 1/8 1 1/4 1 1/4 1 1/4

2 (5’4”–5’6”) 1 1/4 1 1/4 1 1/4 1 3/8
3 (5’7”–5’9”) 1 1/4 1 1/4 1 1/4 1 3/8
4 (5’10”–6’1”) 1 1/4 1 1/4 1 3/8 1 1/2

Important! If you sew with chequered or striped fabric, add the length of 2 pattern repeats
to the fabric requirements when buying the fabric.

2. Lining fabric, 140 cm wide, 50 g/m2, with a directional print/nap, in meters:

Size
Height, cm
34–42 44 46 48 50–52

1 (154–160) 1.1 1.15 1.15 1.15 1.25

2 (162–168) 1.15 1.15 1.15 1.2 1.25
3 (170–176) 1.2 1.2 1.25 1.25 1.3
4 (178–184) 1.25 1.25 1.3 1.3 1.35

Lining fabric, 55” wide, 50 g/m2, with a directional print/nap, in yards:

Size
Height, ft
34–44 46–48 50–52 IMPORTANT! When purchasing fabric, please account
for shrinkage and buy 5% more than required.
1 (5’1”–5’3”) 1 1/4 1 1/4 1 3/8
2 (5’4”–5’6”) 1 1/4 1 1/4 1 3/8
3 (5’7”–5’9”) 1 1/4 1 3/8 1 3/8
4 (5’10”–6’1”) 1 3/8 1 3/8 1 1/2
3. Interfacing, 140 cm wide, 35–40 g/m2, in meters:

Size
Height, cm
34–40 42 44–48 50 52

1 (154–160) 1.05 1.1 1.1 1.15 1.2

2 (162–168) 1.1 1.15 1.15 1.25 1.25
3 (170–176) 1.15 1.15 1.2 1.3 1.3
4 (178–184) 1.2 1.2 1.25 1.35 1.35

Interfacing, 55” wide, 35–40 g/m2, in yards:

Size
Height, ft
34–40 42 44–48 50–52

1 (5’1”–5’3”) 1 1/8 1 1/4 1 1/4 1 1/4

2 (5’4”–5’6”) 1 1/4 1 1/4 1 1/4 1 3/8
3 (5’7”–5’9”) 1 1/4 1 1/4 1 1/4 1 3/8
4 (5’10”–6’1”) 1 1/4 1 1/4 1 3/8 1 1/2

4. Decorative trim for the outer edges, 3 cm wide, in centimeters (seam allowances included):

Height, cm Size

34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52

Upper edge of one pocket

All heights 15.1 15.5 15.9 16.3 16.7 17.1 17.5 17.9 18.3 18.7

Top sleeve vent and sleeve hem (for one sleeve)

All heights 41 41.5 42 42.5 43 43.5 44 44.5 45 45.5

Neckline, center front edges, and garment hem

1 (154–160) 226.6 232.5 238.5 244.5 250.5 256.5 262.4 268.4 274.4 280.4
2 (162–168) 230.8 236.6 242.3 248.1 253.8 259.6 265.4 271.1 277 283
3 (170–176) 237 242.8 248.5 254.3 260 265.8 271.6 277.3 283.1 288.9
4 (178–184) 243.1 248.9 254.6 260.4 266.2 271.9 277.7 283.4 289.2 295

07
 Total length

1 (154–160) 338.8 346.5 354.3 362.1 369.9 377.7 385.4 393.2 401 404.8
2 (162–168) 343 350.6 358.1 365.7 373.2 380.8 388.4 395.9 403.6 411.4
3 (170–176) 349.2 356.8 364.3 371.9 379.4 387 394.6 402.1 409.7 417.3
4 (178–184) 355.3 362.9 370.4 378 385.6 393.1 400.7 408.2 415.8 423.4

Decorative trim for the outer edges, 1 1/8" wide, in inches (seam allowances included):

Height, ft Size

34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52

Upper edge of one pocket

All heights 6 6 1/8 6 1/4 6 3/8 6 5/8 6 3/4 6 7/8 7 7 1/4 7 3/8

Top sleeve vent and sleeve hem (for one sleeve)

All heights 16 1/8 16 3/8 16 1/2 16 3/4 16 7/8 17 1/8 17 3/8 17 1/2 17 3/4 17 7/8

Neckline, center front edges, and garment hem

1 (5’1”–5’3”) 89 1/4 91 1/2 93 7/8 96 1/4 98 5/8 101 103 1/4 105 5/8 108 110 3/8
2 (5’4”–5’6”) 90 7/8 93 1/8 95 3/8 97 5/8 99 7/8 102 1/4 104 1/2 106 3/4 109 111 3/8
3 (5’7”–5’9”) 93 1/4 95 5/8 97 7/8 100 1/8 102 3/8 104 5/8 106 7/8 109 1/8 111 1/2 113 3/4
4 (5’10”–6’1”) 95 3/4 98 100 1/4 102 1/2 104 3/4 107 109 3/8 111 5/8 113 7/8 116 1/8

Total length

1 (5’1”–5’3”) 133 3/8 136 3/8 139 1/2 142 1/2 145 5/8 148 3/4 151 3/4 154 3/4 157 7/8 159 3/8
2 (5’4”–5’6”) 135 138 141 144 146 7/8 149 7/8 152 7/8 155 7/8 158 7/8 162
3 (5’7”–5’9”) 137 1/2 140 1/2 143 3/8 146 3/8 149 3/8 152 3/8 155 3/8 158 1/4 161 1/4 164 1/4
4 (5’10”–6’1”) 139 7/8 142 7/8 145 7/8 148 7/8 151 3/4 154 3/4 157 3/4 160 3/4 163 3/4 166 3/4

08
You can also crochet the trim yourself. Here is what you will need:
• two balls of yarn, 50 g (1.75 oz), 165 m (180 yd)
• 2.5 mm crochet hook
• crochet diagram:

row 5 Stitch key

row 4 half double crochet worked in back loop only

row 3
half double crochet worked in both loops
row 2
chain
row 1
beginning

Start by crocheting a row of chain stitches. Make the chain as long as the required trim length
(see the chart).

5. Stitched straight-grain fusible stay tape, 1 cm (3/8") wide – approx. 4.5 m (5 yd).
6. Stitched bias-cut fusible stay tape with stitch reinforcement, 1.5 cm (5/8") wide – approx. 2 m (2 1/8 yd).
7. Four buttons, 2.2 cm (7/8") in diameter.
8. Eight buttons, 1.5 cm (5/8") in diameter.
9. One pair of shoulder pads.
10. One pair of sleeve heads.
11. Matching thread for the main fabric – 5 spools (1 spool for the sewing machine + 4 spools for the
overlocker).
12. Matching thread for the lining fabric – 1 spool.

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

• sewing machine for construction
• overlocker for finishing raw edges. This may be replaced with a stretch overlock stitch or a zigzag
stitch on the sewing machine (overlock or zigzag stitch width 2–3 mm, stitch length 2.5 mm)
• buttonhole foot for the sewing machine.

09
PATTERN PIECES LIST
1. From main fabric: 2. From lining fabric:
• front – cut 2 • front lining – cut 2
• back – cut 1 on fold • back lining – cut 1 on fold
• top sleeve – cut 2 • top sleeve lining – cut 2
• bottom sleeve – cut 2 • bottom sleeve lining – cut 2
• pocket – cut 2. • pocket – cut 2.

Attention! Fully interface (block fuse) a big enough

piece of the main fabric before cutting the pieces out IMPORTANT! Don’t forget to transfer all pattern
of it (see page 13 for more information on interfacing). markings and notches onto the fabric.

Important! If you are using a patterned fabric, cut the

pocket pieces last so that you can match the pattern 3. From interfacing:
with the front pieces. • front – cut 2
• back – cut 1 on fold
• top sleeve – cut 2
• bottom sleeve – cut 2
• pocket – cut 2.

SEAM ALLOWANCES
All pattern pieces include 1 cm (3/8") seam allowances. Take this into account when laying out
pattern pieces on the fabric.

Important! Since the outer edges of the garment are finished with the decorative trim, the following
edges do not include seam allowances:
• neckline and bottom edges on the back and back lining
• neckline, center front, and bottom edges on the front and front lining
• vent and bottom edges on the top sleeve and top sleeve lining
• bottom edge on the bottom sleeve and bottom sleeve lining
• upper edge on the pocket.

10
 CUTTING LAYOUT

Main fabric and interfacing, 140 cm (55") wide, cut on fold in one direction, for sizes 34–40 in all heights.
Lining fabric, 140 cm (55") wide, cut on fold in one direction, for sizes 34–38 in all heights

fold

selvedge

Main fabric and interfacing, 140 cm (55") wide, cut on fold in one direction, for sizes 42–50 in all heights.
Lining fabric, 140 cm (55") wide, cut on fold in one direction, for sizes 40–48 in all heights

fold

selvedge

Attention! Cut the pockets on a single layer out of leftover fabric.

11
Main fabric and interfacing, 140 cm (55") wide, cut on fold in one direction, for size 52 in all heights.
Lining fabric, 140 cm (55") wide, cut on fold in one direction, for sizes 50–52 in all heights

fold

selvedge

READY? LET’S GET SEWING!

12
 Fully interface (block fuse) the main fabric
piece and then cut the following pieces out of
it:
• back – cut 1 on fold
• front – cut 2
• top sleeve – cut 2
• bottom sleeve – cut 2
• pocket – cut 2.

Apply bias-cut fusible stay tape to the

following:
• shoulder and armscye seam allowances on
the front pieces
• armscye seam allowances on the back piece
• vent seam allowances on the bottom sleeve
pieces.

Apply straight-grain fusible stay tape to the

following:
• center front, neckline, and bottom edges on
the front pieces
• neckline and bottom edges on the back
piece
• vent and bottom edges on the top sleeve
pieces
• bottom edges on the bottom sleeve pieces
• top edges on the pocket pieces.

When applying the bias-cut fusible stay tape,

align the reinforcement stitches on the tape
with the seam line.
We recommend testing your interfacing and
fusible stay tape on a scrap of fabric before
applying them to the main pieces. Check your
iron’s temperature settings and how long it
takes for the interfacing to bond.
To apply the interfacing, position its glue side
onto the wrong side of the fabric piece (or part
of it) and press with the iron. Do not iron the
piece, but instead press it section by section,
holding it down with the iron for a few seconds
until that section is adhered and then pressing
down the next section. You may use a cotton
pressing cloth to protect your iron sole. Once
the interfacing is fused, leave the piece on a
hard flat surface for 15 minutes for it to cool
down.
13
 Thread-trace the following main construction
lines:
• center front line on the front pieces
• pocket placement lines on the front pieces
• vent extension line on the bottom sleeve
pieces.
Baste with a light-colored thread that won’t
bleed into the fabric when steam ironed.
Attention! If your chosen fabric is multicolored
and the lines marked with thread are not visible,
use the markings on the paper pattern piece as
a guide.

Transfer the dart lines from the pattern to the

wrong side of the front and back pieces.

Important! If your chosen fabric is loosely

woven, we recommend overlocking all the edges
of the front, back, top sleeve, and bottom sleeve
pieces to prevent fraying. Keep the right side of
the fabric facing up when overlocking. Overlock
only the top edges of the pocket pieces.

FIRST FITTING
We recommend doing a first fitting for any garment.
What for? The first fitting is done to check the balance of the garment, adjust the ease (only to
reduce it and given that you haven’t sewn a toile and haven’t made any pattern modifications before
cutting the fabric), adjust the garment and sleeve lengths, and check the neckline depth and shape.
How? After applying the interfacing, baste the darts and then construct the entire garment (including
sleeves) along the shoulder and side seams.
To ensure a well-fitting garment, it’s important to properly assemble it for the fitting, so pay attention
to the notches. First pin the pieces at the notches and then between them, making sure the fabric
is lying smoothly.
To baste the garment, use one of the following methods:
• machine-stitch (4–5 mm stitch length)
• hand-baste (approximately 1 cm [3/8"] stitch length). Ensure the pieces are lying on a straight
flat surface (table) without any parts hanging off the surface. 14
 Important! If the needle leaves visible holes in the fabric (tweed, bouclé, wool suiting, gabardine,
etc.), we recommend making a TOILE first in order to check the fit and evaluate possible issues. In
this case, there is no need for a fitting, except to check the lengths and button placement. We
recommend testing on a scrap of fabric first to see whether your material is prone to be marked
by needles.
If one of the pieces ends up longer than the other after basting, do not rush to true them by
cutting off the excess or stretching the shorter piece. First make sure that the notches are properly
matched, lay the pieces on a flat surface and try to re-baste them together. If the pieces still don’t
match in length because they have stretched or there has been a cutting mistake, you can always
true the pieces after the fitting, during the construction of the garment.
After assembling the garment, press it lightly and press the seam allowances either to one side
or open.
What to look for during fitting?
The left and right sides of the garment should look the same.
Verify the garment balance: the side seams, the center front and back lines should be vertical, the
shoulder seams should lie on the natural shoulder line.
The fronts should neither gape open at the bottom nor overlap.
The garment hem should be parallel to the floor.
Evaluate the fit of the front and back while looking at the person from the side. The front and
back should not sag or ride up. There shouldn’t be any horizontal wrinkles across the back or any
tension across the shoulder blades and shoulders.
Evaluate the side seams from the front or back. The garment sides should not sag or ride up.
Check the size and placement of the pockets. Cut them out of calico and pin them to the garment.
Verify the garment length.
Check for fit issues associated with individual features of the body (for example, an asymmetrical
figure with shoulders at different levels, etc.).
The button placement shouldn’t cause any pulling, folds, or creases.
Verify the garment volume, there should be enough ease for a comfortable fit.
After the fitting, make changes symmetrically to both sides of the garment; if needed, baste once
more for another fitting.

Watch the free video tutorial "How to

sew darts" in the "Darts" section of
Vikisews Academy

Match the dart legs on the wrong side of the

front pieces and pin.

15
 Machine-stitch the darts, backstitching at the
side edge only. At the dart point, tie the thread
ends into a knot and trim them down to 2 cm
(3/4").
Press the seams flat.

Trim the dart seam allowances down to 1 cm

(3/8").

Clip into the dart seam allowance that's closer

to the bottom edge at 5 cm (2") from the dart
point, stopping 2 mm short of the seam.

16
 Press the dart seam allowances open.
Press the uncut section of the seam
allowances upward. Then shrink out the fullness
at the dart point on a tailor's ham.

Trim the seam allowances of the pocket lining

by 2 mm on all sides except for the top one.
This will allow the seam to roll toward the lining
after these sides have been stitched.

Place the pocket and pocket lining pieces right

sides together in pairs. Align the edges, pin, and
baste, distributing the ease evenly.

17
 Machine-stitch the pieces together along the
bottom and side edges, backstitching at the
beginning and end.
Remove the basting stitches.
Press the seam flat.

Trim the seam allowances at the corners up

to 2 mm from the seam.

Turn the pocket to the right side and push

out the corners.
Hand-baste along the edges, rolling the seam
toward the lining by 2 mm.
Press the pocket.

18
 Remove the basting stitches except for the
ones along the top edge.
Press the pocket once again.

Transfer the buttonhole marking from the

pattern to the pocket.

Machine-stitch the buttonholes using a

buttonhole foot.
Insert a pin at each end of the buttonhole to
protect the stitching from being cut and then
cut the buttonhole open with a seam ripper.
Press.

19
 Press and steam the crochet trim to prevent
it from shrinking in the finished garment.
Prepare the strips of the crochet trim that will
be used to finish the edges. See the chart in
the "Fabric and Notions Requirements" section
for the exact length of each strip.

Place the trim onto the right side of the

pocket along the top edge. Position the bottom
edge of the trim 1 cm (3/8") away from the top
edge of the pocket. Both short ends of the trim
should extend beyond the pocket by 1 cm
(3/8").

Machine-stitch close to the edge of the trim,

backstitching at the beginning and end.
Press the seam.

20
 Fold the trim in half lengthwise right sides
together and pin its short side edges.
Machine-stitch the side edges of the trim
making each stitching line a continuation of the
pocket side edges. Backstitch at the beginning
and end of each seam.

Turn the trim right side out, push out the

corners, and press.
Pin the free inner side of the trim so that it
covers the stitching line by 2 mm from the
wrong side. Baste in place.

Stitch in the ditch from the right side to

secure the inner side of the trim. Backstitch at
the beginning and end of the seam.

21
 Remove the basting stitches.
Press and steam the pocket.

Place the pocket onto the right side of the

front piece according to the pattern markings
and pin it in place.

Topstitch the pocket close to the edge,

backstitching at the beginning and end.

22
 Press the pocket.

Match the dart legs on the wrong side of the

back piece and pin.
Machine-stitch the darts, backstitching at the
shoulder edge only. At the dart point, tie the
thread ends into a knot and trim them down
to 2 cm (3/4").

Press the seams flat.

23
 Cut the darts open in the middle, stopping
3 cm (1 1/8") short of the dart point.

Clip into the dart seam allowance that's closer

to the armscye at 3 cm (1 1/8") from the dart
point, stopping 2 mm short of the seam.

Press the dart seam allowances open.

Press the uncut part of the seam allowance
toward the center back.

24
 Trim the seam allowances down to 5 mm (just
under 1/4").

Shrink out the fullness at the dart point on a

tailor's ham.

Place the front and back pieces right sides

together. Align the shoulder and side edges,
match the notches, and pin.
Stitch on the sewing machine, backstitching at
the beginning and end of each seam.

25
 Press the shoulder seams flat.
Trim the dart seam allowances at the
intersection down to 2 mm from the seam.

Press the seam allowances open.

Press the side seams flat.

Trim the dart seam allowances at the
intersection down to 2 mm from the seam.

26
 Press the seam allowances open.

Stretch and press the front seam edge of the

top sleeve piece between the notches.

Place the top and bottom sleeve pieces right

sides together. Align the elbow seam edges,
match the notches, and pin.

27
 Stitch on the sewing machine, backstitching at
the beginning and end of the seam. The
stitching line should start at the top vent corner
on the bottom sleeve piece.
Press the seam flat.

Place the top and bottom sleeve lining pieces

right sides together. Align the elbow seam
edges, match the notches, and pin.

Stitch on the sewing machine, backstitching at

the beginning and end of the seam. The
stitching line should start at the top vent corner
on the bottom sleeve lining piece.
Press the seam flat.

28
 Place the top sleeve and top sleeve lining wrong sides together. Align and pin the edges along
the two sides of the vent extension.

Machine-stitch the two sides of the extension

top vent from the top vent corner down to the bottom
corner
edge of the sleeve. Backstitch at the beginning
and end of the seam.
Press the seam flat.

Clip into the top vent corner on both the sleeve and sleeve lining, stopping 2 mm short of the
stitching line. 29
 Trim the seam allowances of the vent
extension down to 5 mm (just under 1/4").

Clip the seam allowances diagonally at the

corner, stopping 2 mm short of the seam.

Fold the sleeve lining over to the wrong side,

spreading the sleeve and lining in opposite
directions.
Press the elbow seam allowances open on the
sleeve and sleeve lining.

30
 Turn the vent extension at the bottom of the
sleeve to the right side and push out the
corner. Baste along the edges without rolling
the seam to either side.

Fold the sleeve and sleeve lining in half

separately, right sides together (see the photo).
Align the front seam edges, match the notches,
and pin.

Stitch on the sewing machine, backstitching at

the beginning and end of each seam.
Press the seams flat.

31
 Press the front seam allowances open.

Turn the sleeve to the right side and smooth

out the lining inside. Align the bottom edges of
the sleeve and sleeve lining, pin and hand-baste
them together.

Transfer the buttonhole markings from the

pattern to the top sleeve.

32
 Machine-stitch the buttonholes using a buttonhole foot.
Insert a pin at each end of the buttonhole to protect the stitching from being cut and then cut
the buttonhole open with a seam ripper. Press.

Using a 4 mm stitch length, make two parallel

rows of gathering stitches along the top part of
the sleeve cap between the notches: at 7 mm
(just over 1/4") and at 9 mm (just under 3/8")
from the edge.
Pull on both bobbin (lower) threads
simultaneously to gather the top part of the
sleeve cap.

33
Press on a tailor's ham to shrink out the ease.

Repeat the same steps on the sleeve lining.

Press on a tailor's ham to shrink out the ease.

34
 Insert the sleeve into the armscye right sides
together. Align the edges, match the notches,
pin, and then baste the sleeve to the garment.

SECOND FITTING

What for? To check the sleeve cap fit and button placement.
How? We recommend doing the second fitting before permanently setting the sleeves in. Insert
the shoulder pads and pin them to the garment along the shoulder seams.
What to look for? Check the fit of the sleeve. The sleeve should lie smoothly, without folds or
wrinkles.

Machine-stitch the sleeve into the armscye,

keeping the sleeve facing up. Stitch twice, with
the second stitching line going exactly over the
first one.
Remove the basting and gathering stitches.
Press the seam flat.

35
 Insert the sleeve head into the sleeve along
the sleeve cap. The sleeve head should only
cover the section between the notches, up to
the curve.
Trim the sleeve head if it's too long.

Pin the sleeve head in place, aligning its edges

with the edges of the sleeve.
Hand-sew the sleeve head to the seam
allowance with a backstitch at 9 mm (just under
3/8") from the edge.

Place the shoulder pad from the garment side,

aligning its highest point with the shoulder
seam. Align the edge of the shoulder pad with
the edge of the armscye and pin it in place.
Hand-sew the shoulder pad to the garment,
using the sleeve head stitches as a guide for
the new stitching line. The stitches should be
loose and not sink into the shoulder pad or
compress it.

36
 Secure the other end of the shoulder pad to
the shoulder seam allowances with hand
stitches.

Match the dart legs on the wrong side of the

front lining pieces and pin.

Machine-stitch the darts, backstitching at the

side edge only. At the dart point, tie the thread
ends into a knot and trim them down to 2 cm
(3/4").
Press the seams flat.

37
 Press the dart seam allowances upward.
Shrink out the fullness at the dart point on a
tailor's ham.

Form and pin the pleats on the wrong side of

the back lining piece.

Machine-stitch the two sides of each pleat,

backstitching at the beginning and end.
Press the seams flat.

38
 Press the pleats toward the center back.

Place the front and back lining pieces right

sides together. Align the shoulder and side
edges, match the notches, and pin. Stitch on
the sewing machine, backstitching at the
beginning and end.

Press the side seams flat.

Press the seam allowances open.

39
 Press the shoulder seams flat.
Press the seam allowances open.

Insert the sleeve lining into the armscye of the

garment lining right sides together, align the
edges, and match the notches. Pin and hand-
baste the sleeve lining to the armscye.

Machine-stitch the sleeve lining in place,

keeping the sleeve facing up. Remove the
basting stitches.
Press the seam flat.
Press the seam allowances toward the sleeve.

40
 Pin the lining to the garment along both
sleeve seams at the elbow level.

Subscribe to Vikisews Academy to watch

the video tutorial “How to make a thread
loop” in the “Miscellaneous” section

Turn the garment to the wrong side and make

thread chains to secure the sleeve seam
allowances of the garment and lining. The chain
doesn't need to be long, 5–7 knots will be
enough.

Make thread chains to additionally secure the lining to the garment at the lower part of the
sleeve cap and the end of the shoulder seam. 41
 Smooth out the lining.
Align the neckline, center front, and bottom
edges of the garment and lining. Match the
notches and seams, pin. Hand-baste the lining
to the garment.
Attention! The lining is drafted to be
approximately 1 cm (3/8") longer than the outer
garment to provide ease of movement.

With right sides together, place the crochet

trim onto the top sleeve. The short edge of the
trim is facing downward. Pin the short side of
the trim to the top of the vent. Align the trim's
centerline with the edge of the vent on the top
sleeve (see photo). Machine-stitch the short side
from the centerline to the trim's inner edge.

Fold the trim over to the right side.

Pin the trim to the vent and bottom edges
from the right side. Position the inner edge of
the trim at 1 cm (3/8") from the edge of the
sleeve.

42
 Machine-stitch close to the edge of the trim,
backstitching at the beginning and end.

Press the seam.

Fold the end of the trim attached to the

bottom sleeve in half lengthwise right sides
together and pin its short side edges.
Machine-stitch the side edge of the trim,
making the stitching line a continuation of the
vent side edge. Backstitch at the beginning and
end of the seam.

43
 Clip the bottom corner of the vent on the top
sleeve up to 5 mm (just under 1/4") to create
a rounded corner.

Turn the trim to the right side and push out

the corner on the bottom sleeve. Fold the trim
in half and press along the foldline.

Fold the free edge of the trim over to the

wrong side of the sleeve. Pin and baste the trim
in place making sure its edge covers the seam
by 2 mm.

44
 Stitch in the ditch from the right side to
secure the inner side of the trim. Backstitch at
the beginning and end of the seam.
Remove the basting stitches.
Press and steam the sleeve.

Mark the buttonhole placement on the right-

hand side of the jacket front, following the
pattern markings or as decided during the
second fitting.

Machine-stitch the buttonholes using a

buttonhole foot.
Insert a pin at each end of the buttonhole to
protect the stitching from being cut and then
cut the buttonholes open with a seam ripper.
Press.

45
 Fold the trim in half right sides together. Pin
and machine-stitch the short side edges,
backstitching at the beginning and end of the
seam.

Press the seam flat.

Press the seam allowances open.

46
 Pin the trim to the neckline, center front, and
bottom edges of the garment from the right
side. Position the inner edge of the trim at 1 cm
(3/8") from the edge of the garment. Align the
seam on the trim with the left side seam on
the garment.

Machine-stitch close to the edge of the trim,

backstitching at the end of the seam.

Remove the basting stitches.

Press the seam.

47
 Fold the free edge of the trim over to the
wrong side of the garment. Pin and baste the
trim in place making sure its edge covers the
seam by 2 mm.

Stitch in the ditch from the right side to

secure the inner side of the trim. Backstitch at
the beginning and end of the seam.

Remove the basting stitches.

Press and steam the garment neckline, center
front edges, and hem.

48
 Sew the buttons to the left-hand side of the jacket front as marked on the pattern or as decided
during the fitting.
Sew the pocket buttons to the front of the jacket and the vent buttons to the bottom sleeve,
following the pattern markings.
Remove the basting stitches.
Give the garment a final press.
Subscribe to Vikisews Academy to watch the
video tutorial "How to sew on buttons" in the
"Buttonholes, buttons, and snaps" section

List of all video tutorials for this garment:

"How to sew darts" in the "Darts" section (free)

“How to make a thread loop” in the “Miscellaneous” section

(subscription)

"How to sew on buttons" in the "Buttonholes, buttons, and snaps"

section (subscription)

Subscribe to Vikisews Academy to watch the video tutorials.

49
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