Holly by

#Holly 1/16
 Holly by

32 - 58
The ultra demure ankle length dress trend is far from over, and
the Holly dress pays hommage to this trend with perfection!
This pattern just had to have a standing collar. In keeping with
the style it features subtle gathers at the neckline and has
been finished with an invisible zip. Not convinced about the length?
Altering this pattern to your taste is easy!

#Holly 2/16
size chart

size 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58
C
UK 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30

US 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26

B (cm) 76 80 84 88 92 96 100 104 110 116 122 128 134 140 H

B (inches) 29.9 31.5 33.1 34.6 36.2 37.8 39.4 40.9 43.3 45.7 48 50.4 52.8 55.1
H (cm) 86 90 94 97 100 103 106 109 115 120 125 130 135 140
H (inches) 33.9 35.4 37 38.2 39.4 40.6 41.7 42.9 45.3 47.2 49.2 51.2 53.1 55.1

Bust (B): measure horizontally around the widest part of the bust.
Hips (H): measure horizontally around the widest part of the lower body.

Choose your size based on your bust measurement. If your hips are wider than the corresponding hip measure-
ments in the size chart, look at the chart below with hip measurements to see whether there’s enough room at
the hips or if the hip measurements will need to be altered. It's easy to do. Just trace the pattern, and instead of
tracing the line for the smaller size, merge it with the line for the larger size.

finished garment measurements (in cm)

This chart's measurements are fabric type and serve as a ref-

erence. Ease has been added to the width measurements (in
addition to the exact body measurements) for a more comfort-
able fit and to achieve a particular cut (fitted, loose, oversized).
The Holly Dress is made in a loose cut, without being oversized.
Depending on what you prefer, you can go a size smaller or larg-
er than the ‘right’ size according to your body measurements.

size 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58
length 120.5 121 121.5 122 122.75 123.25 123.75 124.25 126 126.75 127.5 128.25 129 130
sleeve length* 71.75 72 72.25 72.5 73 73.25 73.5 73.75 74.25 74.75 75 75.5 75.75 76.25
chest 87.75 92 96.5 100.75 105.25 109.5 114 118.25 124.75 131.25 137.75 144.25 150.75 157.25
waistline 88 90.25 92.5 96.75 101 105.25 107.5 111.75 118.5 125.25 131.75 138.5 145.25 151.75
hips 98 102 106.25 109.5 112.75 116 119 122.25 128 133.5 138.75 144 149.25 154.5
wrist trim
20 20.5 21 21.5 22 22.5 23 23.5 24 24.5 25 25.5 26 26.5
circumference
* Including the shoulder length.

Compare the stated lengths to the measured or desired lengths.

Lengthen or shorten the dress and/or the sleeves by cutting the
pattern pieces at the indicated double lines and then spreading the
pattern pieces out X cm from each other or overlapping them where
necessary. Make sure that the CF and CB lines and the side seams
are always straight.

IMPORTANT
Adjust the amount of fabric based on these alterations.

#Holly 3/16
fabric advice

If you want to do justice to the austere cut of this dress, make it in a fabric with a print – think ditsy florals.
Use a fabric with a fluid drape that doesn't hang too heavily. That way you get a lovely ‘puffed’ effect at
the wrist trim and the length won’t be too bulky for the dress. We used a light, floral-print fabric made
from viscose and wool. Find out all the facts about the Fibre Mood fabric collection and the accompany-
ing fabric layouts here or on www.fibremood.com/en/fabrics.

supplies

• Thread
• Invisible zip: 60 cm
• Iron-on interfacing: max. 60 cm
• Cover buttons (Ø 1.1 cm): 6
• Fabric: see table

fabric used (in cm)

32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58
collection
floral print fabric 300 305 305 310 315 320 320 325 330 335 340 340 345 350
fabric width 140 cm
Discover the Fibre Mood fabric collection and the accompanying fabric layouts here or on
www.fibremood.com/en/fabrics.

fabric used (in cm)

32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58
standard
fabric width 140 cm 195 200 210 230 240 245 270 270 300 305 315 315 320 320

The corresponding fabric layout can be found on the last page of these sewing instructions.

#Holly 4/16
 sewing instructions

The method used to hem the garment will depend on your chosen
fabric. The pieces are always sewn together with right sides facing,
unless stated otherwise.

F front

B back

CB centre back

RBP right back piece

LB P lef t back piece

right side

wrong side

iron-on inter facing

1
Sew 2 parallel rows of stitching on the front (1) neckline,
1 within the seam allowance, using a long stitch length at a
low thread tension. Sew just past the nicks on either side
and don't backstitch.

Carefully tug the ends of the threads to gather the fabric.

Pin temporarily into place. Later, when it’s time to sew the
collar, you'll distribute the gathers into their final posi-
tions.

#Holly 5/16
 2
1
Finish the shoulder and side seams of the front with over-
lock stitching.

Finish the shoulder, side and CB seams of the back (2) with
overlock stitching.

3
Pin and sew the shoulder seams and press open the seam
allowance.
2 1

3
4
Pin one collar piece (3) to the neckline and while doing so,
2

distribute the gathers so that the nicks on the front match

the nicks on the collar (3). Sew into place.

#Holly 6/16
 5
Place the invisible zip in front of you with the right side
facing up. Open the zip.

1,5cm
3

Fold the zip tape marked with the green star to the right
and pin it face down the RBP. The zip tape should line up
2 with the edge of the fabric with the zip teeth 1.5 cm under
RBP of the collar's edge. Sew into place with the invisible zip-
per foot.

3 3

Fold the zip tape marked with the red star to the left
LBP
RBP
and pin it to the LBP. The zip tape should line up with the
fabric edge with the zip teeth 1.5 cm under the collar’s
2 edge. Sew into place with the invisible zipper foot.
2

#Holly 7/16
 Close the zip and sew the rest of the CB seam with the narrow
zipper foot. Start sewing a little above and just next to your
1 previous row of stitching from sewing the zip tape. Press
open the seam allowance.

6
3 Finish the bottom of the remaining collar piece with over-
lock stitching.

3
and sew the sides indicated.

3 Fold the collar piece (with the overlocked bottom) and the
seam allowance towards that collar piece and sew the col-
3
lar piece at 2 mm from the seam, through the layers. Sew
2 2 as far as you can here.

Neatly fold the collar piece to the wrong side and pin in
place from the right side of the garment. Secure by stitching
in the ditch, along the seam.

#Holly 8/16
 7
Finish the sides of the sleeve (4) with overlock stitching.
4 Snip into the sleeve up to the basting thread.

Press the bias sleeve placket (6) as follows:

• Start by pressing the bias in half lengthwise all the way

down to create a fold line.
• Next, fold the long sides inwards until the raw edges
6 meet the fold line. Press. Open the bias back out.

Open the sleeve split so that you are working with a

single straight line. Slide the bias placket under the sleeve
with the right side facing up. Match one long edge to the
edge of the arm split and pull the sleeve a little to the
4 side at the centre basting thread. Sew together along
the pressed fold line. Only a few fabric threads have
been sewn in place at the basting thread.

4
6

#Holly 9/16
 4 6 Fold the bias towards the right side of the sleeve and place
the pressed fold line directly over the previous stitching.
Sew into place right next to the edge.

Fold the sleeve in half widthwise, with the right side fac-
ing inwards. Sew the top edge of the bias together at an
1 cm

angle.

Fold the bias on the sleeve front (i.e., the widest side of the
sleeve hem) onto the wrong side of the sleeve and sew the
bias into place at 0.5 cm from the bottom.

0,5 cm

Pin and sew the side seams of the FP and BP and the
sleeves. Press all of the seam allowance
6 open.

#Holly 10/16
 5 Fold the wrist trim (5) in half lengthwise with the right side
of the fabric facing towards to create a fold line.

Press 1 cm of seam allowance along the long side of the

wrist trim (the side with the basting) towards the wrong
side.

Fold the wrist trim in half at the pressed fold line with the
right side of the fabric facing inwards. Sew the short ends.

Turn the right way out.

Using a long stitch length and a low thread tension, sew

2 parallel rows of stitching on the bottom of the sleeve
within the seam allowance.

Carefully tug the ends of the threads to pull the fabric

4
into gathers. The bottom of the sleeve needs to match the
length of the wrist trim exactly.

#Holly 11/16
 Slide the wrist trim into the sleeve.

Pin the right side of the aw edge of the wrist trim to the
bottom of the sleeve along the inside (= the wrong side).
Distribute the gathers evenly. Sew into place.
Remove the gathering threads when you’re done.

Turn the wrist trim over to the right side of the sleeve.
Place the fold line directly over the previous stitching. Sew
into place right next to the edge.

8
Pin the sleeve cap to the armhole with the corresponding
nicks matching. The single sleeve nick should match the
1
4 single nick on the front, and the double nicks on the sleeve
should match the double nicks on the back. The top single
sleeve nick matches the shoulder. Distribute the remaining
fabric between the nicks. Sew into place.

22 1

#Holly 12/16
 Finish the raw edges together with overlock stitching.

9
1
Press the hem allowance up at the V notches and then
2 unfold.

Place the raw edge along the pressed fold line and then
fold once again.
1

Sew into place next to the edge.

1

10
Sew the buttons on at the markings indicated on the wrist
trim.

#Holly 13/16
 Make horizontal buttonholes that align with the buttons.

11
Optional

7 Fold the belt (7) in half lengthwise with the right side of
the fabric facing inwards.

Sew the indicated sides and leave an opening to turn the

belt right side out again.

Turn the belt right side out.

2 mm
Sew all the way around at 2 mm from the edge and press.

#Holly 14/16
pattern pieces & seam allowances (in cm)

To prepare the pattern before cutting you must first add the illustrated seam
allowances around the paper pattern pieces as shown below.

1 1 1
1
1. front: 1x on fabric fold
1 2. back: 2x
1
3. collar: 2x on fabric fold
4. sleeve: 2x
5. wrist trim: 2x
6. bias sleeve placket: 2x. You’ll need to create this
1 1 pattern piece yourself. Draw a 6x20 cm rectangle.
2
7. belt*: 1x on fabric fold. You’ll need to create this
0 1 1 pattern piece yourself. Draw a rectange of 8x85 cm
(size 32-46) or 8x105 cm (size 48-58).
* optional

RTANT
O
P
IM

The pieces
highlighted in light
1.5 1.5 yellow have iron-on
1 1 interfacing attached
1 1 5 to the wrong side.
1 1
3
0

1 4 1
0

6
1
1 0 0

0 1

7
0 0
0

#Holly 15/16
fabric layout for fabrics 140 cm wide
Before we begin sewing, make sure to transfer all markings onto your fabric:

• Nick the pattern paper and fabric at the places where a single vertical line (I) and double
vertical lines (II) are indicated.
• Cut a notch out of the fabric at a V notch symbol or on the finished hemline.
• Cut a notch out of the pieces that lie on the fabric fold to mark the middle of these pieces.

Indicate crucial points on the pattern:

• Mark the position of the buttons by hand with basting thread ( ) by basting through the
middle of the ( ).
• Mark the tip of the sleeve split by hand with basting thread ( ) by basting through the
middle of the ( ).

32 - 38
FABRIC FOLD

1 3 3
5

6
2 4

SELVEDGE
FABRIC FOLD

40 - 58
FABRIC FOLD
1 3 3

4
2
6 5

SELVEDGE
FABRIC FOLD

#Holly 16/16