UNIT-V

EMBROIDERY
Embroidery is the art of decorating fabric or other materials using a needle to
stitch thread or yarn. Embroidery may also incorporate other materials such
as pearls, beads, quills, and sequins. In modern days, embroidery is usually seen on
hats, clothing, blankets, and handbags. Embroidery is available in a wide variety
of thread or yarn colour. It is often used to personalize gifts or clothing items.

Some of the basic techniques or stitches of the earliest embroidery are chain
stitch, buttonhole or blanket stitch, running stitch, satin stitch, and cross stitch.
[1]
Those stitches remain the fundamental techniques of hand embroidery today.

DEFINITION- The art or process of forming decorative designs with hand or

machine needlework

Different motif used in embroidery-

1. Back stitch-
Backstitch is so easy to learn that you'll have it down within the first
few stitches. This basic stitch will likely be the one you'll use the most.
Backstitch is useful for any outline and it pairs well with other stitches,
making it a key stitch to learn.

It's also easy to embellish with weaving or wrapping and quickly

transforms into the more decorative Pekinese stitch.

2. Running Stitch

Running stitch is a simple embroidery stitch that's good for making

dashed outlines and adding details to embroidery. It's also the basis
for Japanese sashiko embroidery.
Although basic, it's adaptable and can become complex for more
detailed projects. For example, you can change the look by adjusting
the length and spacing or adding a second row of stitches between the
first. It's also another stitch that works well with weaving and
wrapping.

3. Straight Stitch

The straight stitch hardly requires an explanation because its as simple

as bringing the needle up through the fabric and back down. But it's
worth exploring the many uses for this building block embroidery
stitch.

Use the straight stitch to form stars, scattered fills, textures, and more.
Practice length and placement to work this versatile stitch into your
projects.
 4. French Knot

For many stitchers, making French knots remains a challenge. While it

may take time to learn, it's worth the effort. Not only is this a common
stitch to find in embroidery patterns, but it's also a good stitch to use
when making a textured fill or other design elements.

This stitch involves wrapping the needle to form a knot on the fabric's
surface. The trick to making French knots is to hold the working thread
taut but not too tight. Give it some practice.

5. Stem stitch

Stem stitch is another basic stitch that's perfect for creating smooth
outlines. It works well for straight lines and curves, and despite its
name, it isn't only for embroidering stems. Use a stem stitch on just
about any line in your stitching.

Like so many stitches, you can adjust the width of stem stitching or
use it for fill stitching. Just try to keep your stitch length consistent to
create a beautiful result.

6. Chain stitch

lf you want a bolder line of embroidery, then chain stitch is the stitch
for you. Chain stitch forms a row of linked stitches that stands out.

There are several ways to work the chain stitch, and it's a good idea to
at least learn how to work it forward and in reverse. Once you've
mastered those, try some of the other variations.

7. Satin Stitch
The basic satin stitch is one of the most classic embroidery stitches for
filling an area. There are a few variations, but at its essence, satin
stitch is a series of straight stitches worked next to each other. What
could be simpler?

The secret to making those straight stitches turn into something

special is practicing the length and proximity of the stitches. The result
is a filled shape that is simply stunning.

8. Feather stitch

Feather stitch is a linked stitch that creates open lines that almost look
like they're moving. It's perfect for making frames and borders and
works well layered or embellished with other stitches.

The look of feather stitch makes it good for stitching seaweed, foliage,
feathers, or scales, and the variations make it possible to embroider
many natural designs.

9. Split Stitch

split stitch as another option for making outlines. The process

for working split stitch is similar to working backstitch but
upside down. The back of your work will end up looking like the
front of the backstitch.

Use this stitch, made by piercing or splitting the previous

stitch, to work strong and slightly textured lines of embroidery.
 10. Detached Chain Stitch

A detached chain stitch, sometimes called a single chain, is a common

stitch for making flowers, leaves, and more. You'll work this stitch as a
standard chain stitch but with just one "link."

Lazy daisy flowers typically have five or six detached chain stitches.

11. Fly Stitch

You work a fly stitch similar to a detached chain stitch, but rather than
making a petal or teardrop shape, fly stitch forms a V shape or
sometimes a soft curve.
Try fly stitches in a row, scattered as fill, stitched in a radius, or in
plenty of other variations.

12. Woven Wheel Stitch

Woven wheel stitch looks like a more advanced embroidery stitch, but
it's actually quite simple. Start with a star of straight stitches, then
weave the working thread to form a flower. Soon, you have a stitch
that'll fill your hoop with amazing florals.

Different motif used in embroidery-

Motifs from nature: Aari embroidery often features motifs from nature such as trees,
leaves, and vines. In fact, This is applicable to creating beautiful and intricate designs.
Abstract: Use Aari Work to create abstract designs. Of course, This can be more open
to interpretation and used to create a more modern look.
Peacock (Mor): Peacock is the national bird of India and the embodiment of
gracefulness. It symbolizes royalty, honor and beauty. It is a symbol for power,
strength, confidence, royalty, beauty and even divinity. Its features symbolize
immortality and immunity to evil. The peacock motif is widely adopted as a motif
in various embroideries. In kasuti embroidery of Karnataka, a geometric peacock is
often used, as it is strongly associated with beauty and passion. It is also seen in
Rabari embroidery of Kutch, Kantha of Bengal. It is embodiment of grace-
fullness.
Fish Motif (Matsya): It is a favourite motif in the Kantha of Bengal and usually
shown in water. The water is universally accepted as a source of life and is symbol
of purification and regeneration. It is also a symbol of prosperity, fertility and
purity. It is also a sign of good fortune. In Nakshi Kantha, fish is one of the most
popular motif and an auspicious motif representing the first reincarnation of lord
Vishnu.

Parrot Motif (Tota): Symbolizes passion and courtship, parrot motif is commonly
found in Gujarat and Rajasthan embroideries. They are depicted as a symbol of
passion and fertility. They are usually used as motifs on bridal, trousseau, to
symbolize these
LACES
Embroidered lace is embroidered on a base using a needle. The base varies according
to the type. Many techniques use a net, either woven or knotted. The net varies: Woven
fabric with threads removed to make a grid

Lace is a delicate fabric made of yarn or thread in an open weblike pattern,[1] made by
machine or by hand. Generally, lace is split into two main
categories, needlelace and bobbin lace,[2]: 122 although there are other types of lace, such
as knitted or crocheted lace. Other laces such as these are considered as a category of
their specific craft. Knitted lace, therefore, is an example of knitting. This article
considers both needle lace and bobbin lace.

While some experts say both needle lace and bobbin lace began in Italy in the late
1500s,[2]: 122 [3]: 12 there are some questions regarding its origins.

Originally linen, silk, gold, or silver threads were used. Now lace is often made
with cotton thread, although linen and silk threads are still available. Manufactured lace
may be made of synthetic fiber. A few modern artists make lace with a fine copper or
silver wire instead of thread.

Laces are mainly of two types

1. Needle lace
2. Pillow lace

Other types of laces are also available,

 Crocheted lace includes Irish crochet, pineapple crochet, and filet crochet.
 Cutwork, or whitework, is lace constructed by removing threads from a woven
background, and the remaining threads wrapped or filled with embroidery.
 Knitted lace includes Shetland lace, such as the "wedding ring shawl", a lace
shawl so fine that it can be pulled through a wedding ring.[4]
 Knotted lace includes macramé and tatting.
 Machine-made lace is any style of lace created or replicated using mechanical
means.
 Needle lace, such as Venetian Gros Point, is made using a needle and thread.
This is the most flexible of the lace-making arts. While some types can be made
more quickly than the finest of bobbin laces, others are very time-consuming.
Some purists regard needle lace as the height of lace-making. [citation needed] The
finest antique needle laces were made from a very fine thread that is not
manufactured today.
 Tape lace makes the tape in the lace as it is worked, or uses a machine- or
hand-made textile strip formed into a design, then joined and embellished with
needle or bobbin lace.
 Tatting is a textile craft consisting of a series of knots and loops arranged with
a shuttle or needle based process.

PILLOW LACES

Bobbin lace is a lace textile made by braiding and twisting lengths of thread,
which are wound on bobbins to manage them. As the work progresses, the weaving
is held in place with pins set in a lace pillow, the placement of the pins usually
determined by a pattern or pricking pinned on the pillow.

Bobbin lace is also known as pillow lace, because it was worked on a pillow,
and bone lace, because early bobbins were made of bone[1] or ivory.
Bobbin lace is one of the two major categories of handmade laces, the other
being needle lace, derived from earlier cutwork and reticella.

Reticella
Also known as reticello or in French point coupé or point couppe) is a needle
lace dating from the 15th century and remaining popular into the first quarter of the
17th century.

Reticella was originally a form of cutwork in which threads were pulled

from linen fabric to make a "grid" on which the pattern was stitched, primarily
using buttonhole stitch. Later reticella used a grid made of thread rather than a
fabric ground. Both methods resulted in a characteristic geometric design of
squares and circles with various arched or scalloped borders.
Books of patterns for reticella designed by Federico de Vinciolo (France, 1587)
and Cesare Vecellio (Italy, probably from the 1590s but printed 1617) were
popular and were frequently reprinted.

Reticella developed into Punto in Aria.

Reticella (Italian, ‘a small net’) is an extreme form of cutwork lace, and thereby
classed as a form of embroidered lace. It dates from the late medieval period and
involves the large-scale removal of squares of woven ground cloth, usually linen,
that are filled in with embroidered patterns. Later reticella used a grid made of
thread rather than a cloth ground.
Both methods result in a characteristic geometric design of squares and circles with
arched or scalloped borders. The resulting appearance of the cloth is like a giant
mesh or network. Reticella is distinctive in the large size of its individual meshes
(6–13 mm) and the use of buttonhole stitch to create the patterns within each mesh.
Historically, reticella is younger than the first forms of embroidered lace. The
earliest written record that appears to refer to reticella is the Sforza
inventory (1493), where it is called redezela. Queen Elizabeth I’s (1533-1603)
wardrobe accounts list small partlets or ruffs worked in de opera rete and de opera
rhet (i.e. ‘of net work’), which probably mean reticella, as this form was very
popular during the Elizabethan period for decorating ruffs.

NEEDLE POINT- Needlepoint is a type of hand embroidery. Specifically, it is a

counted form of embroidery. That means it is stitched on a canvas that has
designated holes for your needle to go through (think of it as a grid).
Needlepoint is a type of canvas work, a form of embroidery in which yarn is
stitched through a stiff open weave canvas. Traditionally needlepoint designs
completely cover the canvas.[1] Although needlepoint may be worked in a variety
of stitches, many needlepoint designs use only a simple tent stitch and rely upon
color changes in the yarn to construct the pattern. Needlepoint is the oldest form of
canvas work.[2]

The degree of detail in needlepoint depends on the thread count of the underlying
mesh fabric. Due to the inherent lack of suppleness of needlepoint, common uses
include eyeglass cases, holiday ornaments, pillows, purses, upholstery, and wall
hangings

History
The roots of needlepoint go back thousands of years to the ancient Egyptians, who
used small slanted stitches to sew up their canvas tents. Howard Carter,
of Tutankhamen fame, found some needlepoint in the cave of a Pharaoh who had
lived around 1500 BC.

Modern needlepoint descends from the canvas work in tent stitch, done on an
evenly woven open ground fabric that was a popular domestic craft in the 16th
century.

Further development of needlepoint was influenced in the 17th century by Bargello

and in the 19th century by shaded Berlin wool work in brightly colored wool yarn.
Upholstered furniture became fashionable in the 17th century, and this prompted
the development of a more durable material to serve as a foundation for the
embroidered works of art. In 18th century America, needlepoint was used as a
preparatory skill to train young women to sew their own clothing.

Needlepoint is worked upon specialized types of stiff canvas that have

openings at regular intervals.