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    Lecture_3

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    taraartig

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    Lecture_3

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    12 views17 pages

    Lecture_3

    Uploaded by

    taraartig

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    © All Rights Reserved
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    You are on page 1of 17

    Types of surface waves

    wind-driven waves
    Types of surface waves

    Ship waves
    Tsunami
    Wind waves

    Philips 1957:
    Wave generated by resonance
    between wind turbulence and
    surface waves

    Miles 1957:
    Rate of wind energy to wave
    energy transfer depend on wave
    speed and profile curvature at
    elevation where wind velocity
    As waves develop, they offer more surface area for the wind to equals phase velocity
    press against (wind stress) – depending upon fetch length and
    time, the size of the waves increases!
    Wave Description
    Regular waves
    Irregular waves
    Wave Description

    •Irregular ocean waves = Sum of many


    independent harmonic waves

    •Understanding irregular waves means


    understanding the individual harmonic
    waves

    •Linear wave theory describes in detail


    such harmonic waves
    Wave Measurements
    ⚫ In situ techniques (floating, submerged, surface-
    piercing)
    - wave buoy
    - wave pole
    - pressure transducers/current meter

    ⚫ Remote-sensing techniques
    - stereo-photography
    - altimetry (laser, acoustic, radar)
    Wave Description
    Wave Description

    Nonlinear waves

    Linear waves
    Propagating energy, not particle

    Coordinate: x-z plane


    Wave velocity (phase velocity, celerity)
    𝜆 𝜔
    𝑐= =
    𝑇 𝑘
    Linear waves
    Boundary value problem
    Irrotational and incompressible fluid satisfies the
    continuity equation:

    𝜕𝑢 𝜕𝑣 𝜕𝑤
    𝜕𝑥
    + 𝜕𝑦
    + 𝜕𝑧
    = 0 ∇2 𝜙 = 0

    or

    𝜕2 𝜙 𝜕2 𝜙 𝜕2 𝜙
    𝜕𝑥2
    + 𝜕𝑥2 + 𝜕𝑥2 =0

    Laplace equation

    Many solutions exist, we need to find the one


    applicable to water waves.
    Linear waves
    Laplace equation

    ∇2 𝜙 = 0

    is linear, which means, if 𝜙1 and 𝜙2 are solutions for the equation, then 𝐴𝜙1 + 𝐵𝜙2 is
    also a solution to the Laplace equation.

    To solve it we need boundary conditions.


    Linear waves
    Kinematic Free surface boundary condition:

    Equation of the free surface:

    𝐹 𝑥, 𝑦, 𝑧, 𝑡 = 𝑧 − 𝜂 𝑥, 𝑦, 𝑡 = 0

    where 𝜂 𝑥, 𝑦, 𝑡 is the displacement of the free surface, about


    𝑧 = 0.

    The component of fluid velocity normal to the surface be related to the local surface velocity.

    if we see the surface in a Lagrange coordinate, as we move with the surface, it should not change.
    That is :

    𝐷𝐹(𝑥, 𝑦, 𝑧, 𝑡) 𝜕𝐹 𝜕𝐹 𝜕𝐹 𝜕𝐹
    = +𝑢 +𝑣 +𝑤 = 0. 𝑜𝑛 𝐹 𝑥, 𝑦, 𝑧, 𝑡 = 𝑧 − 𝜂 𝑥, 𝑦, 𝑡 = 0
    𝐷𝑡 𝜕𝑡 𝜕𝑥 𝜕𝑦 𝜕𝑧
    Linear waves
    𝐷𝐹(𝑥, 𝑦, 𝑧, 𝑡) 𝜕𝐹 𝜕𝐹 𝜕𝐹 𝜕𝐹
    = +𝑢 +𝑣 +𝑤 = 0. 𝑜𝑛 𝐹 𝑥, 𝑦, 𝑧, 𝑡 = 𝑧 − 𝜂 𝑥, 𝑦, 𝑡 = 0
    𝐷𝑡 𝜕𝑡 𝜕𝑥 𝜕𝑦 𝜕𝑧

    𝜕𝐹 2 2 2
    − = 𝑢 ∙ ∇𝐹 = 𝑢 ∙ 𝑛 ∇𝐹 , ∇𝐹 = 𝜕𝐹 Τ𝜕𝑥 + 𝜕𝐹 Τ𝜕𝑦 + 𝜕𝐹 Τ𝜕𝑍
    𝜕𝑡

    ∇𝐹
    where 𝑛 = is the unit vector normal to the surface.
    ∇𝐹

    − 𝜕𝐹 Τ𝜕𝑡
    𝑢∙𝑛 = on 𝐹 𝑥, 𝑦, 𝑧, 𝑡 = 0
    ∇𝐹

    𝜕𝜂 Τ𝜕𝑡 𝜕𝜂 Τ𝜕𝑡
    𝑢∙𝑛 = = 𝑜𝑛 𝑧 = 𝜂 𝑥, 𝑦, 𝑡
    ∇𝐹 𝜕𝜂 Τ𝜕𝑥 2 + 𝜕𝜂 Τ𝜕𝑦 2 +1
    Linear waves
    𝜕𝜂 Τ𝜕𝑡 𝜕𝜂 Τ𝜕𝑡
    𝑢∙𝑛 = = 𝑜𝑛 𝑧 = 𝜂 𝑥, 𝑦, 𝑡
    ∇𝐹 𝜕𝜂 Τ𝜕𝑥 2 + 𝜕𝜂 Τ𝜕𝑦 2 +1

    here
    𝜕𝜂 𝜕𝜂
    ∇𝐹 − 𝑖റ − 𝑗റ + 1𝑘
    𝜕𝑥 𝜕𝑦
    𝑛= =
    ∇𝐹 𝜕𝜂 Τ𝜕𝑥 2 + 𝜕𝜂 Τ𝜕𝑦 2 +1

    Thus

    𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜂 𝜕𝜂 𝜕𝜂
    − =𝑤= +𝑢 +𝑣 , 𝑜𝑛 𝑧 = 𝜂 𝑥, 𝑦, 𝑡
    𝜕𝑧 𝜕𝑡 𝜕𝑥 𝜕𝑦
    Linear waves
    Bottom boundary condition:

    The velocity component normal to the bottom should be zero,


    i.e.

    𝑢 ∙ 𝑛 = 0. 𝑎𝑡 𝑧 = −ℎ(𝑥)

    or for flat bottom

    𝜕𝜙
    𝑤=− = 0. 𝑎𝑡 𝑧 = −ℎ 𝑧 = −ℎ
    𝜕𝑧
    Linear waves
    Dynamic Free surface boundary condition:

    The pressure at free surface need to be uniform (no wind),


    hence, the Bernoulli equation on the surface would be

    𝜕𝜙 1 2 2
    𝑝𝜂
    − + 𝑢 + 𝑤 + + 𝑔𝑧 = 𝐶 𝑡 . 𝑎𝑡 𝑧 = 𝜂 𝑥, 𝑡
    𝜕𝑡 2 𝜌

    Usually, 𝑝𝜂 is to be gage pressure, i.e., 𝑝𝜂 = 0.

    2 2
    𝜕𝜙 1 𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜙 𝑝𝜂
    − + + + + 𝑔𝑧 = 𝐶 𝑡 . 𝑎𝑡 𝑧 = 𝜂 𝑥, 𝑡
    𝜕𝑡 2 𝜕𝑥 𝜕𝑧 𝜌

    𝑧 = −ℎ
    Linear waves
    Lateral boundary condition:

    For pure waves, i.e., no structures involved, this condition


    is just a periodicity condition:

    𝜙 𝑥, 𝑡 = 𝜙 𝑥 + 𝐿, 𝑡

    𝜙 𝑥, 𝑡 = 𝜙 𝑥, 𝑡 + 𝑇

    𝑧 = −ℎ
    Linear waves
    Two-dimensional periodic water wave problem

    Governing equation:

    ∇2 𝜙 = 0

    Boundary conditions:

    𝜕𝜙
    − =0 𝑜𝑛 𝑧 = −ℎ
    𝜕𝑧 𝑧 = −ℎ

    𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜂 𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜂
    − = − , 𝑜𝑛 𝑧 = 𝜂 𝑥, 𝑡
    𝜕𝑧 𝜕𝑡 𝜕𝑥 𝜕𝑥
    2 2 𝜙 𝑥, 𝑡 = 𝜙 𝑥 + 𝐿, 𝑡
    𝜕𝜙 1 𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜙
    − + + + 𝑔𝜂 = 𝐶 𝑡 . 𝑜𝑛 𝑧 = 𝜂 𝑥, 𝑡
    𝜕𝑡 2 𝜕𝑥 𝜕𝑧 𝜙 𝑥, 𝑡 = 𝜙 𝑥, 𝑡 + 𝑇

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