Living on the ‘The Ice’

When you hear the word ‘Antarctica’, you probably think of ice and snow, freezing cold temperatures
and penguins. You probably don’t think of home! But for 1000 to 5000 people annually, Antarctica, our
seventh continent, is a kind of home.

Antarctica is a massive place, taking up about 4.5 million square miles. It is classified as a continent since it is
a land mass (unlike the Arctic which is mostly made up of sea ice) but until recently it was hardly explored at
all. The rough seas, the complete isolation and the difficult climate made it impossible for early nomadic people
to get to. Unlike the Arctic, which has been populated by nomadic tribes of hunters for thousands of years,
Antarctica was not even noticed by seafarers until the 1820s and had no human inhabitants at all until the
1950s.

The reason for the lack of human habitation is myriad. Scientists who live there call Antarctica ’The Ice’ since,
on average, the ice that covers the land masses is 1-half miles thick. Although the ice over the land is
freshwater ice, sea ice also builds up around the continent in winter, causing it to almost double in size.

The average temperature there is -60° Fahrenheit (-51°C), in comparison to 0°F or -17°C in the Arctic. The
cold, dense air of Antarctica causes Katabatic winds. These are constant winds which sweep the mountains
and valleys at over 60mph. Herbies are the even more volatile windstorms during which the wind can gust to
100mph.

While white nights (days and nights of constant light) are experienced around the summer solstice (December
21st), the opposite is true during the days of the winter solstice (June 21st). Then the land is entirely dark
throughout the day and night.

But what does this mean for humans attempting to live there? Along with the extreme cold temperatures which
can cause frostbite and hypothermia, nothing edible grows outdoors here. The largest native land animal (the
penguin is considered an ocean animal) is a half-inch-long wingless midge. The dark nights can cause severe
depression or SAD (Seasonal Affective Disorder), the high altitude of the continent causes altitude sickness
and the sunlight bouncing off the ice and snow can cause severe sunburn and snow blindness. It’s quite
understandable that people would have found adaptation to this environment difficult.

In the 1950s however, countries began to develop an interest in Antarctica. It was seen as a fabulous scientific
research prospect since the winter nights were incredibly dark for observation of the solar system, the harsh
environment was perfect for testing equipment for difficult terrain and conditions (as on the moon and other
planets) and it provided a perfect place for studying ocean creatures like penguins and whales.

Since Antarctica doesn’t belong to any one country and doesn’t have a government of its own, countries
argued for some years over who had rights to it. Seal and whale hunters nearly wiped out several species of
animals that fed near its shores. In 1959 twelve countries signed Antarctica Treaty, agreeing to use the area
for scientific and peaceful purposes only. These countries were Argentina, Australia, Belgium, Chile, France,
Spain, New Zealand, Norway, South Africa, the Soviet Union (now Russia), the United Kingdom and the United
States of America. Since then, 38 counties have signed the treaty.
At the moment, there are over 50 research stations in Antarctica, owned by a number of countries. Some of
these are summer-only stations, while others, such as the American silted of McMurdo and South Pole station
and the Argentinian Esperanza, are year-round facilities. Some of these stations have had to be rebuilt several
times since the blowing snow piled around structures too quickly to be removed by human hands. The new
South Pole station (opened in 2008 to replace two earlier structures) used an ingenious system to limit the
effects of this problem. The station is built on hydraulic stilts, the principle being that the snow will blow under
the station rather than over and around it. As the snow piles higher, the station can be jacked up on its stilts
giving it extra years of usability. Despite this solution, scientists estimate it will still need to be replaced in 2050.

The research stations combine the state-of-the-art scientific equipment and labs needed for research with the
more prosaic requirements of human life. Most stations contain gyms, medical units, saunas, kitchens and
dormitory-style living arrangements. Greenhouses are used to maintain a source of fresh vegetables and fruits
and each station generates its own power using special fuel generators and solar panels. The fuel needs to be
mixed with antifreeze and stored in special fuel bladders to prevent its freezing before use.

Life in Antarctica is touchy indeed! Despite this, Antarctica is probably one of the toughest places on earth to
gain residency! To be allowed to stay in Antarctica, you must be affiliated with one of the research stations.
You can apply for a job as a research scientist, a member of the medical staff, a maintenance worker or an
engineer but chances are your first application will not be successful. Many researchers apply for jobs in
Antarctica several times before being offered a position. Even after being accepted, stay in Antarctica is
relatively short-most people work there for six months to one year before being transferred to their home nation
again.

Happy Camper School

Life in Antarctica is so harsh that all those preparing to live on the continent for any length of time
must take part in a survival school. This is called the ‘Happy Camper School’ but deals with some
serious stuff. Students are taught how to survive in extreme weather conditions, how to keep
hydrated, build an emergency shelter and avoid the natural dangers of the continent, including
crevasses.

Fancy growing up in Antarctica?

Both Chile and Argentina maintain stations on the continent that are more like small towns. The
Chilean station town is known as Frei Montalva station or Villa LA’s Estrellas and mountains a
population, even in winter of about 80 people. The Argentinian town is called Esperanza and has
about 55 winter residents. Both of these stations have schools, medical stations and other facilities
such as gyms.

The Argentinian station made the news in 1978 when the first native Antarctica was born there. His
name is Emilio Marcos Palma and officially he holds citizenship to Argentina. His mother and father
were sent to the station in the final months of her pregnancy as part of an experiment to determine if
Antarctica could be colonised by families. Since 1978, 11 children have been born within the zone
defined by the 1959 treaty as belonging to Antarctica. Emilio Palma was the most southerly birth
however, being born on a peninsula of the main continent of Antarctica.
Life Isn’t Just Scientific Research!

The choice to live in Antarctica for a period of time may seem like a strange one. There are limited
opportunities to do the things we normally take for granted: go to the movies, see friends and family,
and visit restaurants and parks. Life isn’t all hard work on the southern continent, however. Scientists
and support staff (they sometimes call themselves ‘Polies’) are given time off to indulge in skiing,
sledding or, as seen by recent pictures of a Chinese Research staff, playing the odd games of
football!

Stations have been known to have ‘beach’ parties and cook-offs and at Christmas, the scientists at
the South Pole Station hold a ‘Race Around the World’. The circuit for this outdoor race travels
around the geographic South Pole and the South Pole market. It is called the ‘Race Around the
World’ because anyone completing a lap goes through all the world’s time zones. The race is three
laps long but, since the high altitude makes running nearly impossible, the racers don’t run. They
sometimes use snowmobiles instead!

The South Pole even had its own version of the famous music festival ‘Woodstock’. At New year’s,
the staff at the American McMurdo Station celebrate with a music festival they call ‘IceStock’.