Harry ENG

This pattern doesn’t include any crochet lessons.
Difficulty: intermediate.
Author: Kseniya Krupskaya

Copyright:
Copyright is a type of intellectual property that gives me, the owner, the
exclusive right to control and manipulate any actions about my intellectual work
like this pattern, instructions or pictures in it. This right is protected by the Law.
Dea r c r af t er s , I di d my bes t t o m a k e t h i s pa t t e r n s i mp l e a n d c l e a r, ea s y t o
und er s t a nd an d t o f ol l o w, and I s p e n t a l o t o f t i me m ak i n g i t . I r ea l ly h o p e
t ha t y o u r es pec t m y wor k an d gi v e m e a c r e d i t a s t h e d e s i gn e r o f t h i s
p at t e r n in y o ur s oc i al me di a. B u t y o u d o n ' t h av e t o .
Th i s p at t er n is m y i nt e l l ec t ual p r o p e r t y , a n d i t i s f o r y o u r p e rs o n a l u s e o n l y.
F u l l or p a r t i al c o py i ng, s ha r i n g ( p o s t i n g , s en d i n g, pu r c h as i n g i t wi t h o t he r
p e op le , c r oc he t i ng al ong wi t h s o m e o n e el s e an d s o o n ) , t ra n s l a t i ng i nt o
o t h er la nguages or r e s el i ng ar e t h e i nf r i n g em e n t o f my c o p y ri gh t .
B uy in g t h is pat t e r n y ou get t h e r i g h t t o c r e a t e t o y s a c c o r d i n g t o i t an d s e l l
t hem b ut no t t he r i ght t o di s po s e o f t h e p a t t e r n o n y o ur o w n . P l e a s e re s p e c t
t he d es i gner ’s r i ght s !
Th an k yo u ve ry m uc h!
Pl ea s e c on t a c t me i n an y c o n ve n i ent wa y if you ha v e
a ny q ues t i on s , s u g ge s t i o n s ab ou t t he pa t t ern , or if y o u
hav e f ound an e r r or i n t h e i n s t ru c t ion .
A l s o pl eas e rem em b e r t o t a g me o n you r fi ni s h ed w o r k

w hen y ou u s e a ny of my p a t t erns . P l ea s e us e
#kr u _ pa t t ern .
* kru.toys
https://vk.com/little_kru_club
https://boosty.to/kru.toys
e-mail: [email protected]
I w i l l b e g l ad t o get a ny f eedba c k fro m Y ou !
* - t h e p r o d u c t o f M e t a C o r p , w a s d e c l a r e d a s a n e x t r e m i s t g r o u p o n t h e R u s s i a n F e d e r a t i o n t e r r i t o r y 2 1 .0 3 .2 0 2 2
2
K s e n i y a K r u p s k a y a • B L A C K H A I R E D B O Y W E A R I N G C H E C K E R E D S H I R T • pa t t e r n • 2 0 2 3
Dear friends,
let me introduce myself
My name is Kseniya, and for the past four years crocheting has been my
hobby. I'm absolutely obsessed with crocheting Amigurumi toys and
photographing my toys in the best way to present my creations. Perhaps,
the idea to combine these two kinds of expressing myself is the true
reason why I'm so obsessed with amigurumi and that is why we are both
here to crochet the most magical boy in my life, the boy who lived - Harry.
This project takes a special place in my heart. It's so exciting to bring life
into a character, which you know over 20 years. The boy with whom we
grew up together, stumbled, fell, got up, shared fallings and rises. It was
an extraordinary challenge and fun to create him so recognizable and so
unlike the other crocheted Harrys I have ever seen before. And it seems I
succeeded.
Of course I had a lot of

complications. Only the
embroidery of the shirt took a
loooots of patience and
persistence. Hope you
wouldn't be upset with this
part of the pattern, cause the
result will impress you so
much. I find this project
definitely the cherry on the
top of my luck. It helped me
to reach a whole new level of
skills.
Now I would like you to share

with me the experience in
creating the most magical
wizard in the World, who will
bring the magic to your heart.
May the crocheting will bring
only good vibes and
memories to you.
3
materials and tools
yarn for the body in beige color YarnArt Jeans #07,
yarn for the soles and belt in dark brown color YarnArt Jeans #70,
yarn for the boots in brown color YarnArt Jeans #40,
yarn for the underwear in graphit color YarnArt Jeans #28,
yarn for the socks and the t-shirt in gray color YarnArt Jeans #46,
yarn for the hair in black color Gazzal Baby Cotton #3433,
yarn for the pants in khaki Alize Cotton Gold #782,
yarn for the shirt in lilac color YarnArt Jeans #65,
yarn for the sweater in deep blue color Alize Cotton Gold #58,
yarn for the suitcase in brown color Alize Cotton Gold #493,
yarn for the belt and the handle of the suitcase in caramel color Alize Cotton Gold #499,
yarn for the cake in pink color Alize Cotton Gold #33,
yarn for the letters on the cake in green color Alize Cotton Gold #35,
yarn for the box for the cake in cream color Alize Cotton Gold #67/YarnArt Jeans #05,
crochet hook Clover 2 mm OR 1.75 mm any other type you prefer (US 4),
a thick cardboard (I have used a piece of cardboard of 20*20 cm, 1250 gr/m2) or any
polymer material which fits,
black copper wire 1.5 mm dia,
copper wire 1 mm dia,
adhesive woven tape bandage,
clear strong transparent glue (if you prefer to glue the insoles and the hair),
6 mm safety eyes - 2 pcs,
buttons 6-10 mm dia - 8 pcs,
plastic snap buttons 7 mm dia - 2 pcs,
wire pliers,
circular knitting needles 2 mm dia,
portable steamer for clothes,
a tapestry needle for attaching the pieces, thread thickness:
some pins, YarnArt Jeans - 160m/50g,
Alize Cotton Gold -
scissors,
330m/100g, Gazzal Jeans -
markers, 170m/50g
needle threader, For the huge parts (the
fiberfill, shirt, the body, the hair,
happy vibes. the sweater, the pants) you
better to have the new
skein of recommended
yarn.
T h e se ma t e ria ls a re o n ly a list o f my re co mme n d a tio n s

t o h e lp yo u cre a te th e to y like min e . Y o u ca n u se a n y
t yp e / size o f t h e ya rn a n d th e h o o k, b u t yo u mu st
u n d e rst a n d it w ill a f f e ct t h e t o y 's f in a l lo o k.
4
Color palette
YarnArt
Jeans #07
YarnArt
Jeans #70
YarnArt
Jeans #40
YarnArt
Jeans #28
YarnArt YarnArt
Jeans #65 Jeans #46
Alize Cotton Alize Cotton
Gold #58 Gold #782
Alize Cotton Gazzal Baby
Gold #499 Cotton #3433
Gold #67 Gold #33
Gold #493 Gold #35
5
useful links
To make the process of crocheting more easy and identical to mine I decided to
leave a couple of links. Not all the products will fit every county, but some of
them have international shipping. All of the links are clickable. Also you can
copy and paste them to your browser instead of clicking them.
Circular needles (RU):

https://www.wildberries.ru/catalog/7430007/detail.aspx?
targetUrl=MS&size=25641333
Black wire (RU): https://ozon.ru/t/zdV7Z2M

https://www.wildberries.ru/catalog/145574248/detail.aspx?
targetUrl=GP&size=245270214
Flat safety eyes 6 mm dia: https://sl.aliexpress.ru/p?key=YnSlwVr
Glasses:
https://sl.aliexpress.ru/p?key=RRSlwed
Plastic snap buttons (RU):

https://ozon.ru/t/690R29k
6
about glue and wire
I n my p r ojec t s I us e t wo k i nds o f w i r e :
1. Copper wire which is thin enough - for the fingers 0.4 mm dia.
2. Copper wire 0.8-1 mm dia for doll's frame.
Also for this pattern I used thicker copper wire of black color 1.5 mm dia
for the glasses.
If you decide not to use a wire at all or into the some parts, you can
crochet without the frame.
If you will use the frame you will need the wire 1 mm dia only.
Your doll can be made without a wire. But please pay attention, that if you
don't use it - your doll will not be able to bend its arms, legs and neck.
Also it will probably not be able to hold its head straight.
About a glue. I didn't

use it into the pattern,
but I guess that at
some points can be
easier to use a glue if
the doll wouldn't be
made for a little kids or
for he active play
game. I prefer to use a
clear strong
transparent glue
Moment Crystal.
7
factors to define how much yarn you need
1. T h e f ir s t a nd t he mo s t ob v i o u s f a c t o r i s a c r oc h et ho o k s i z e. I f y o u us e t h e
y a r n m ent io ned i n t he m at er i al s l i s t an d a c r o c h e t h o o k s i z e o t h e r t h a n
r e c ommend ed o ne, i t wi l l af f ec t t h e a m o u n t o f y a r n n e c e s s a r y f o r y o ur p r o j e c t .
I f y ou c ho os e a l ar ge r c r oc het ho o k , t h e n y o u w i l l n e e d m o re y a rn a n d i f y o u g o
f or a s m al ler c r o c het ho ok - t hen y o u w i l l n e e d l e s s y ar n t h a n i t i s s p e c i f i e d i n
t he ma t er ia ls li s t .
2. T he s e c o nd f ac t o r – yo ur t y pi c a l t e n s io n wh e n c r o c h e t i n g . T he g aug e and
t ens ion is goi ng t o m ak e a di f f er enc e w i t h t h e am o un t o f u s e d y a rn b e c a us e y o u
g et m or e o r l es s s pac e b et ween s t i t c h e s . Th e t i g h t e r y o u r s t i t c h e s a re , t he l e s s
y a r n y ou need .
3. Th e t hir d a nd v er y i mp or t ant c o n d i t io n – y o ur s t i t c h e s s ha p e: V- s h a p e , X-
s hap e / s em i- X. T he s t i t c h s hape de p en d s o n w h at c r o c h e t t e c h n i q u e y o u u s e –
y a r n ov er or y ar n under t he ho o k .
If you w r ap the thread, pl ac i ng t he hook under neat h the y arn s trand ( Y ar n

U nder - ci rc ul ar mov ement of t he hook f r om t he r i ght t o t he left) – this makes
V - shaped stitch, i f you put the hook ov er t he y ar n s t r and ( Y ar n Ov er - c i r cular
mov ement from t he r i ght t o t he l ef t ) – t hi s mak es X - shaped stitches, and i f y ou
mak e y arn under t hen y ar n over , t hi s t ec hni que gi v es us sem i-X stitches. Y ou
w i l l need muc h mor e y ar n f or t he f abr i c made i n Y ar n Ov er technique compared
w i th the amount needed f or Y ar n U nder t ec hni que.
W hy d i d I s p ec i f y t he y ar n de ns i t y i n t h e ma t e r i al s l i s t ? I f y o u do n’ t h av e t h e
s a me b r a nd t ha t I r ec o mm end , y o u s h o u l d u s e t h e y a r n w ei gh t as s u b s t i t u t i o n
wi t h a ny r i s k o f m i s c al c u l at i o n f o r t h e t o y a nd c l o t h e s s i z e s .
Video how to make

semi-X stitches
You can scan or tap on

this QR-code and other
ones to watch videos.
8
instructionS
st = stitch we u s e in r n d )
M R = m agi c r ing BL O = c r o c h e t in t o b a c k
c h/ t c h = c h ai n/ t u r n i ng l o o p s o n ly
c hai n F L O = c r o c h et in t o f r o nt
sl st = slip stitch l o o p s o n ly
s c = s i ngl e c r o c h e t CL = cluster stitch (4 dc
hdc = hal f do u ble c r o c h e t joined at the top)
dc = do u ble c r o c he t s h i f t s t i t c h - e x t r a r e gu la r
t r = t r ebl e c r oc h e t stitch
dec = de c r eas e ( wi t h t h e ③ - 3 s c i nt o 1 s t it c h
s ame t y pe o f s t i t c h e s w hi c h k = knit
we us e i n r nd ) p = p ur l
i nc = inc r eas e ( w it h t h e yo = y a r n ov e r
s ame t y pe o f s t i t c h e s w hi c h k 2 t og = k n i t 2 t o ge t h er
Th e n um ber i n br a c k et s a t t he end o f e ver y r oun d mea ns a t ot a l n um ber o f

s t i t c h es i n t he r oun d,
( …) * n – m eans t hat yo u s ho uld re p e at t h e c o mbi na t io n o f st i t c h es n t i m e s.
In t h i s pat t e rn w e us e US t er mino lo gy .
C hoos e the cor r ec t hook s i z e w hi c h i s appr opr i at e f or t he y arn you are going to
use. Y our choi c e c an be di f f erent f r om mi ne, but pl eas e pay attention to the
fac t, that the s i z e of t he t oy and t he c l ot hes w i l l be di f f er ent w hen you use other
yar n and another hook s i z e.
Us e a s t it c h m ar k e r f or y our c o nv e ni en c e f o r r o u nd s c o u nt i n g .
T he t oy i s c r oc het ed i n s em i - X s t i t c h es. S h if t s t it c he s a r e c al c ul at e d p r ec i s e l y
f or t hi s t ec hn ique . I f y o u c r o c het t h e s t i t c h e s w i t h Ya r n O v e rs , t h e n Y o u w i ll
need t o d e t er mi ne t he s y m m et r y o f t h e p ie c e s and t he n u mb e r o f s hi f t s t i t c he s
and t h eir l oc a t i o n b y y our s el f .
About c ol or c han gi ng . I r ec o mm e n d t o c h a nge c o l o r i n t h e l as t s t i t c h o f a

r ou nd , b ef or e y o u s t ar t t he r o u nd wi t h a ne w c o l o r . W o r k t hi s l a s t s t i t c h wi t h
t hr e a d of a n e w c ol o r i n t he f o l l o w i n g w ay : p u l l u p a l o o p wi t h t h e y a rn y o u 're
w or k in g w it h and t hen f i ni s h wi t h t h e y ar n o f ne w c o l o r .
About de c rea s e s . I mak e i nv i s ibl e d e c r e as es - w o r k i n F LO , bu t i t ' s ea s i er t o

ma k e c la s s ic d ec r eas es i nt o s om e s t i t c he s - i n b o t h l o o p s .
9
Abou t c r o c h et i ng al o ng t he edge . I pr e f er t o
c r oc het alo ng t he e dge of t he p ar t s w i t h a
c r oc het h o ok o f t he s i z e l es s t h a n I ha d
c r oc het t his p ar t . I t ' s not c hange t h e s i z e o f a
pa r t b u t I t h ink i t l ook s nea t er . U s u a l l y I u s e
Cl ov er Am or 1. 75 c r o c het ho o k , i f f o r t he
pr oj e c t i h ad us e c r o c het ho ok 2.0 o f t h e s a m e
t r a de m ar k .
Stuff a ll the piec es a s you go, tight (unless otherwis e sta ted), gra dua lly a dding
small portions of s tuffing and forming necessary sha pes of pieces.
The doll is 27 c m/10.63 inches tall in case of usin g the ma teria ls listed a nd
crocheting in semi-X s titch.
10
how to make
an invisible edge
Her e I w a nn a s ho w y o u how I en d t h e c r o c h e t i n g i n t h e r o u n d s b y m a k i n g
i nv i s ib le ed ge.
1. I ns er t t h e need l e i n t he s t i t c h c o u n t i n g 2 s t i t c h e s b e f o r e y ou r l a s t o n e .
Pu l l it o ut .
2. I n s er t t he n eedl e bet ween f r on t a n d b ac k l o o ps o f t h e s t i t c h b e f o re y o u r
l a s t o ne . Pu ll it o u t .
3. Ma k e s u r e t he t hr ead i s t i g ht e n o u gh . T h at i s al l .
11
Part 1.
the doll
arms 1
With the yarn of beige color #07. Make
two.
The arms are identical except the placement of

the thumb in the 7th and 8th rounds.
1. 6 sc in MR (6)
2. (sc, inc)*3 (9)
3. 9 sc (9)
4. (2 sc, inc)*3 (12)
5-6. 12 sc (12), 2 rnds
7. for the 1st arm: CL, 11 sc (12)
for the 2nd arm: 6 sc, CL, 5 sc (12)
8. for the 1st arm: dec, 8 sc, dec (10) 2
for the 2nd arm: 5 sc, 2 dec, 3 sc (10)
9-34. 10 sc (10), 26 rnds, cut the thread
and fasten off.
Stuff the tip of the palm a bit.
3 4
13
sleeves 5
With t he y ar n of gr a y c ol or # 46. M ak e
two.
Try to crochet free enough, especially pay attention

to this when making the chain.
M a k e a c hai n of 10 s t i t c hes, c l o s e i t i n a
c i r c l e w i t h s l s t (рiс . 5) . No t e t h a t t h e
c hai n m u s t n ot be t w i s t e d.
C r oc het t he 1 s t r nd al ong t he c ha i n:
1 . ( 4 s c , i nc ) * 2 ( 12)
2 . 1 2 s c ( 1 2)
6
3 . ( 5 s c , i nc ) * 2 ( 14)
4- 5. 14 s c ( 14) , 2 r nds , l eav e a l ong
enough t ai l t o mak e an i nv i s i b l e edge and
f as t en of f .
Mak e t h e 2nd s l eev e.
P ut eac h s l ee v e ont o t he ar m w i t h a
c hai n edg e t o t h e t op. Don' t be a f r a i d t o
s t r et c h i t a l i t t l e, i f y ou t hi n k t h at i t i s t o o
t i g ht o r s m al l .
14
legs
8
With the yarn of dark brown color #70.
Make a chain of 9 stitches.
1. From the 2nd st from the hook: inc, 6 sc, 3 sc

into 1 st, on the other side of the chain - 7 sc (18)
2. 2 inc, 6 sc, 3 inc, 6 sc, inc (24)
3. (sc, inc)*2, 6 sc, (sc, inc)*3, 7 sc, inc (30),
make 3 shift stitches. The marker must be
paced in the middle of the back side of the foot.
4. 8 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 10 sc
(34)
Draw an outline around the contour of the foot on

cardboard (or any polymer material, pic. 8). If you will
wash the toy in the future, don't use the cardboard
because it will be damaged during the washing. Cut out
two boot insoles. Put them into the foot later.
9
Turn the foot back side down and the front loops of
the 4th round will come the back loops for us now
(рiс. 9). Continue to crochet in the reverse direction,
but still from the right to the left (рiс. 10).
5. BLO: 34 sc (34), the end of the rnd must be placed

in the middle of the back side of the foot (make some
shift stitches if it is needed), change the yarn to
brown #40.
6. BLO: 34 sc (34), cut the dark brown thread.
7-8. 34 sc (34), 2 rnds, put the insole.
9. 5 sc, (hdc, dec from hdc)*8, 5 sc (26)
10. 7 sc, 6 dec from hdc, 7 sc (20)
6
10 11
15
11. sc, (sc, dec)*6, sc (14), change the color to gray
#46, cut off the brown one.
12. BLO: 14 sc (14)
12
Take two pieces of the wire about 32 cm length. Bend one end of
the wire in a loop and wpap it with the adhesive woven tape
bandage about 14 cm of its length (рiс. 12). Also bend the end of the
wrapped end at an angle of 90 degrees (рiс. 13).
13-16. 14 sc (14), 4 rnds, change the color to beige

#07, don't cut the gray thread, leave it outside (рiс.
15) and insert a wire like you see on рiс. 14-15.
17. BLO: 14 sc (14)

18-40. 14 sc (14), 23 rnds, don't cut the thread.
Next we need to choose the place for the marker

where the legs will be connected and crochet
shift stitches till this place.
For the 1st leg crochet till the middle of the inner
side of the leg, cut the thread and fasten off. I had
1 shift stitch.
13
Repeat the rounds for the 2nd leg. After rnd 40 also
make some shift stitches till the middle of the inner
side of the leg or maybe crochet some stitches less till
the end of round. I had 1 stitch less before rnd ends.
Don't cut the thread.
If you need more details, please take a look on the

instruction how to connect the legs on page 18
after the description of assembling the boots.
14 15
16
Soc k edg e
Us e a f r ee end of gr ay t hr ead we h ad l e f t
out s id e a nd c r o c het 1 r nd of s l s t s f r o n t
16
l oop on ly of t he 16t h r nd o f t he l eg ( р i с .
16 ) , c ut t he t h r ead and f as t en o f f .
Nex t w e c r oc he t t he boo t. S t a r t i ng f r o m t h e
t ong u e of t h e boo t .
M ak i n g t h e bo ot
Us i ng t w o c o nr as t c ol or i ng pi ns ma r k t he
s y mme t r ic a l s t i t c he s of t he 11t h r o u n d : 6
s t s in t h e f r o nt and 8 s t s on t he b ac k ( р iс .
17) .
At t a c h t he y ar n of br ow n c ol o r #4 0 t o t h e
1s t o f 6 ma r k ed s t s o n t he f r o nt , c r o c he t i n
t ur n ing r o w s ( p i c . 18) :
17
1. 6 sc, ch (6)
2. inc, 4 sc, inc, ch (8)
3-4. 8 sc, ch (8),2 rnds
5. f r om t h e 3r d s t : s c , hdc , 2 dc , h d c , de c
( 6 ) , c u t t h e t hr ead a nd f a s t en o f f ( р iс . 1 9) .
That w as t h e bo ot t ongu e of gussette.

Rep ea t f or t he 2nd l eg.
Nex t w e need t o mak e upper a l s o w i t h

t ur n ing r o w s .
186 19
17
Attach the yarn of brown color #40 to the last
front st of the 11th round, where we finish the
1st row of the tongue of gussette (рiс. 20):
20
1. inc, 8 sc, inc, ch (12)
The last st also must be crocheted into the front st of the

11th rnd, where was crocheted tongue of gussette
already.
2- 3. 1 2 s c , c h, ( 12) , 2 r nd s, c u t t h e t h r e a d
and f as t en o f f (рi с. 1 6) .
Reea t w it h t he 2nd l e g.
Al l is lef t - t o l ac e u p t he bo o t s an d t h e y
wi l l b e r ea d y . Tak e bl ac k b row n t h r e a d # 70
and la c e it u p us i ng a nee dl e .
You s hou l d dec i de i f y ou want t o t i gh t t h e

21
l a c es o r no t . M ak e t he k not s o n t h e en d s o f
eac h la c e a nd c ut t he ex c es s t h r e ad ( р iс .
22- 23 ) .
226 23
18
How t o m ak e a r i ght qu antit y of s h ift
s t i t c h es on t he 2 nd l eg?
24
Put t h e l egs o n t he d es k s t r i c t o r p i g eo n -
t oed a nd f o ld t hei r up per par t s i n h a l f , as
y ou c an s ee o n p i c . 24. The s t i t c h e s wh i c h
ar e p la c e d in t he m i ddl e of t he i n n e r f o l d
( m a r k ed w it h pi ns on t he pic . 25) a r e t he
s t i t c h e s y o u s houl d c o nne c t wi t h t h e c h a i n
i n 4 1s t r nd . Mar k t he m. Cr oc het t h e 2 n d l e g
t i ll t h e m a r k er .
If you had cut the thread on the 1st leg a little bit
earlier in the place of the marker, it's ok. Focus on
the marker.
Af t e r p ut t i ng t he m ar k e r s , c hange t he y a r n
of t he 2 nd l eg t o gr aphi t e #28. Y o u c an c u t
of f t he b eige t hr ead and f as t en i t o f f . W i l l
be m or e c o mf or t abl e t o d o t hat a f t e r t h e
25
41s t r nd .
19
body
26
CON NE CTI NG T HE LEG S:
Con t in ue t o wor k , m ak e a c h a i n o f 12
s t i t c h es f r o m t he 2nd l e g ( pi c . 26) a n d 1 s c
i nt o t he ma r k ed s t i t c h on t he 1 s t l e g ( p i c
27) .
W e' v e a t t ac hed t wo l egs t o ea c h o t h e r . N o w

y ou c an c hec k i f y ou l i k e ho w i t l o o k s o r
c han ge i t s pos i t i on b y i nc r ea s i n g o r
r e duc in g ex t r a s t i t c hes on t he 2n d l eg i n
r nd 4 0 .
41. [BLO: 14 sc along the 1st leg (last st in the

marked stitch), 12 sc along the chain, [BLO: 15
sc along the 2nd leg, last st in the marked
stitch), 12 sc along the chain (54), put the
marker. Now here will be the start of the round. 27
On the 41st round, we are working with 40
stitches (14 sts of the 1st leg + twice 12 sts of
the chain + 14 sts of the 2nd leg) but we are
working with the chain from both sides and we
will be adding 2 extra sts as we will work twice
on these 2 spots that marked on the pic. 28.
42. [ BLO : 1 5 s c al o ng t he 1s t l e g], 12 s c

al ong t h e c hain, [ B LO : 15 s c al on g t h e 2n d
l eg], 12 s c a l on g t h e c hai n ( 54)
6
28 29
20
Next for comfortable crocheting we need to twist two free ends
of the wire, as you can see on the pic. 30-32, wrap the wire with
the adhesive woven tape bandage on half of its length. DON'T
CUT the wire.
30
43-51. 54 sc (54), 9 rnds, make some shift

stitches till the middle of the side (рiс. 32)
change the yarn to gray #46.
52. BLO: 54 sc (54)
53. 54 sc (54)
54. (7 sc, dec)*6 (48)
55-60. 48 sc (48), 6 rnds
61. (6 sc, dec)*6 (42)
62-67. 42 sc (42), 6 rnds
68. (5 sc, dec)*6 (36)
69-70. 36 sc (36), 2 rnds
Stuff the body during the crocheting, otherwise

it will be hard to do it tightly and evenly later.
31
Before starting the 71st rnd you can need the

shift stitches, depending on your thread tension.
32 33
21
Mark symmetrically 14 sts in the middle of the front
side of the body and 12 sts in the middle of the back
side. There also must be 5 stitches between these two
34
places for the arms (pic 34). b ac k
Crochet till the marker of the 1st arm (рiс. 34) if it is

needed. My marker was placed in 1 st before, so I arm
made 1 shift st (till the marker after 5 sts of the 1st area
arm), but maybe, you wouldn't need them.
Please pay attention to this fact. Only you can decide

how many shift sts you will need or maybe you will front
crochet less stitches at the end of rnd 70.
When attaching the arms we need to crochet through the sleeves,

the arms and the body at the same time. Make sure the sleeves
are placed right. To make the joint point less visible the best place
for it will be in the area of the armpit.
71. 5 sc through the 1st arm, the sleeve and the body
35
(pic. 36), 12 sc along the back side of the body, 5 sc
through the 2nd arm, the sleeve and the body, 14 sc
along the front side of the body (36)
In the 72nd rnd we finish attaching the arms by the

way of crocheting along lefted 5 stitches on each of it
like on previous round:
72. 5 sc along the 1st arm and the sleeve, 12 sc along

the back side of the body, 5 sc along the 2nd arm and
the sleeve, 14 sc along the front side of the body (36),
(рiс. 37).
36 37
22
38 39
Now we need to insert the wire into the arms.
Cut two pieces of the wire about 20 cm length each, including the loop on the end (рiс
38). Wrap each piece with the adhesive woven tape bandage on the length a little bit
more, then the length of the arm.
Insert the wire into each arm and stuff the palm after. If you can also stuff the arm a
little bit.
Twist the free ends of the wire with the main frame (рiс. 40-41), then bend the end and
wrap it with the adhesive woven tape bandage on the half of its length. This
construction will be additional support for the neck. Don't cut the non-wrapped end of
the wire.
40 41
23
Continue to crochet.
73. 36 sc (36), make sure if the body stuffed
enough or maybe you need to add some more
42
stuffing, because it will be hard to do later.
74. (4 sc, dec)*6 (30), crochet till the middle of
the back side of the neck and put the marker. I
did 10 shift sts in the 74th rnd (pic. 42),
change the yarn to beige color #07, cut off the
gray one.
75. BLO: (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)
76. 24 sc (24)
77. (sc, dec)*8 (16)
Unfortunately I missed making the picture of

the step on this pattern, but pic. 43 shows it
quite well: bend the free end of the wire in the
direction of the body the way that its free end 43
was about 6-7 cm and wrap the wire very
tightly with the thin layer of the adhesive
woven tape bandage.
It's very important that the wire was twisted very tight
and the layer of the tape bandage was really thin,
otherwise you wouldn't be able to crochet the neck
around the wire.
78-82. 16 sc (16), 5 rnds, leave a long tail for

sewing and cut the thread.
24
head 44
With the yarn of beige color #07.
1. 6 sc in MR (6)
2. 6 inc (12)
3. (sc, inc)*6 (18)
4. (2 sc, inc)*6 (24)
5. (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
6. (4 sc, inc)*6 (36)
7. (5 sc, inc)*6 (42) e ey es bu t
off an d bu rn ed th
If yo u ha d fa ste n ou t th e he ad
8. (6 sc, inc)*6 (48) fit sn ug ly, tu rn
th ey sti ll did n't e str on g en ou gh fro m
on th e ey
9. (7 sc, inc)*6 (54) ins ide ou t, pr ess th re ad col or of
d wr ap wi th th e
th e fro nt sid e an ion of th e ey e an d
10. (8 sc, inc)*6 (60) th e he ad be tw een
th e fou nd at
ey e wa s
e yo ur
e ba ck sid e wh er
11. (9 sc, inc)*6 (66) th e he ad fro m th un til th e ey e wi ll fit
e th re ad
12. (10 sc, inc)*6 (72) bu rn ed . W ra p th ma ke a cou ple
t th e th re ad an d
re all y sn ug ly. Cu ba ck to th e fro nt
t th e he ad
13-25. 72 sc (72), 13 rnds of kn ot s, tu rn ou
sid e.
Insert the eyes 6 mm (now or when you will finish the 45
process) between 18-19 rnds with a distance of 11
stitches apart (pic. 44). I recommend you to insert the
eyes when the head will be finished.
26. 5 sc, dec, (10 sc, dec)*5, 5 sc (66)
27. (9 sc, dec)*6 (60)
28. 4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec)*5, 4 sc (54)
29. (7 sc, dec)*6 (48)
30. 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec)*5, 3 sc (42)
31. (5 sc, dec)*6 (36)
32. 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec)*5, 2 sc (30)
33. (3 sc, dec)*6 (24)
34. sc, dec, (2 sc, уб)*5, sc (18)
35. (7 sc, dec)*2 (16), cut the thread and fasten off.
Fill the head with the fiber tight, and if you haven't
inserted the eyes, use pins for the best positions for
the eyes.
Pull the fiberfill out of the head, wide the holes for the 46
eyes with a hook, insert and close the back of the eyes.
I recommend that you also melt the back of the safety
eyes.
I use a household lighter. But be careful on this step, your crocheted

piece could get damaged, stained or even burnt when doing so.
Press the melted part of the back side of the eye with a lighter or a
knife to secure it.
Then fill the head with fiber again. The head must be
filled tight enough.
25
hair 47
With the yarn of black color #3433.
1. 6 sc in MR (6)
2. 6 inc (12)
3. BLO: (sc, inc)*6 (18)
4. (2 sc, inc)*6 (24)
5. (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
6. (4 sc, inc)*6 (36)
7. (5 sc, inc)*6 (42)
8. (6 sc, inc)*6 (48)
Pa y att ent ion to how
9. (7 sc, inc)*6 (54) the fin ish ed hai r
loo ks. If you thi nk tha
t the hai rcu t is too
10. (8 sc, inc)*6 (60) flu ffy and dis hev ele d,
you can cro che t onl y
11. (9 sc, inc)*6 (66) one rnd of the str and
s - 20 th rnd . So if you
wo uld n't cro che t str and
12. BLO: (10 sc, inc)*6 (72) s in 3rd and 12t h
rnd s don 't cro che t the
se rnd s blo , wh en you
13-19. 72 sc (72), 7 rnds wil l ma ke the hai r.
Next we start to crochet strands (I recommend make

them on the assembled head): 48
20.
12 ch, from the 2nd st from the hook: 2 sl st, 7
sc, 2 hdc, sc in the next 2 stitches after a stitch
you have worked with along the foundation;
(10 ch, from the 2nd st from the hook: 2 sl st, 5
you have worked with along the foundation)*7;
(6 ch, from the 2nd st from the hook: sl st, 3 sc,
hdc, sc in the next 2 stitches after a stitch you
have worked with along the foundation)*18;
(10 ch, from the 2nd st from the hook: 2 sl st, 5
you have worked with along the foundation)*8;
49 50
26
sc in the stitch after a stitch you have
worked with along the foundation, 12
ch, from the 2nd st from the hook: 2 sl
51
st, 7 sc, 2 hdc, sc into the stitch after a
stitch you have worked with along the
foundation, sl st into the stitch after a
stitch you have worked with along the
foundation.
Leave a very long tail for sewing (at least
80 cm), cut the tread and fasten off.
If you're crocheting strands on the already assembled

head and have pinned the hair to the head, you also
better pin every strand to the head after crocheting
Attach the thread of black color to the 1st

front stitch of the 1st rnd (рiс. 51) and
make a chain of 10 sts (рiс. 52):
from the 2nd st from the hook - 2 sl st, 5
sc, 2 hdc, sl st into each of 3 front stitches 52
after the stitch you have worked with,
repeat till the end of the round.
Total there will be 22 strands, cut the

thread and fasten off.
Next attach the thread to the 1st front stitch

of the 2nd rnd and make a chain of 6 stitches:
from the 2nd st from the hook - sl st, 3 sc,
hdc, sl st into each of 3 front stitches after
the stitch you have worked with, repeat 3
more times till the end of the rnd. 4 strands in
total, cut the thread and fasten off.
53 54
27
ears 55
With the yarn of beige color #07. Make

two.
8 hdc in MR (8), cut the thread and leave a

long tail for sewing.
28
assembling
1. E mbr oi de r t he nos e.
Mar k w i t h t h e pi ns abo u t 6 s t i t c h e s ( рi с 5 6) . M a k e 2 - 3 l e n g t h wi s e s t i t c he s
f r om one p in t o t he o t her ( pi c . 57 ) . Wr ap t h e s e s t i t c h e s w i t h t h e t h re a d u s i n g
t r a ns v e r s e s t i t c he s ( pi c . 58) . To b e s u r e t h e n o s e w i l l n o t wo b b l e m a k e a
c oup le o f s t it c h es t hr o u gh t he he ad t o o .
Pl ea s e p a y at t ent i o n t o t he t hr ea d t e n s i o n . I f i t w i l l no t be s t ro n g e n o u g h t h e
nos e w ill b e w obb l e and wi l l n o t l o o k n i c e .
56 57 58
59 60 61
2. Se wi n g t he e ar s .
Pi n t he ea r s on ( pi c . 6 0) wi t h 9- 1 0 s t s ap a r t f r o m t h e e y e , b e t we e n 2 1 s t a n d
24t h r ou nd s and s ew t hem o n w i t h l i t t l e s t r o n g s t i t c h e s ( p i c . 61 ) .
3. E mbr oi de r t he eye br o ws .
Mar k w it h t h e pi ns t he pl ac es f o r t h e e y e b r o w s ( p i c . 58) : 3 s t i t c h e s a b o v e t h e
ey e in t h e t o p and 2 s t i t c hes i n t h e b o t t o m o f t h e ey e b ro w a n d w i t h 4
s t i t c hes w id e. Em br oi der t hem w i t h b l a c k t h r e a d .
29
5 3
62 63 64
4
2
6 1
4. Sculpting.
Some of you use the same thread for contraction as for the toy, but this thread isn't strong enough.
I recommend to use nylon thread of the same color for sculpting the eyes.
You can make the face sculpting if you want (pic. 64): insert a needle between
the stitches in the bottom of the neck in point 1 and pull it out in the right
lower corner of the right eye (for us) in point 2, then, making a small stitch,
insert a needle into the left corner of the same eye in point 3 and pull it out in
point 4. Make a small stitch again, insert a needle into point 5, pulling it out
in point 6, between the stitches to the left from point 1 is 1 stitch.
65 66 67
Pull both thread tails until you have the correct position of
the eyes (pic. 66) and make 2-3 strong knots. If it's 68
necessary, pull the thread tails again and make one more
knot. Cut the thread and hide the tails of the thread inside
the head.
5. Sewing the hair.

Put on the hair to the head the way that the height of the
forehead will be 8-9 sts (from the eyebrows till the hair), 3-
4 sts - from the hair till the ears and from the hair till the
hole for sewing the neck about 6 sts (pic. 68-71).
30
69 70 71
Pin the hair to the head and make sure that its placement satisfied you. You can also bend
the strand whatever you like. Don't forget to leave the place for the scar.
Also if you don't like to sew parts together you can use a clear strong transparent glue or glue gun to fix
the hair and especially the strands.
Please pay attention, if the toy will be played a lot, you should sew the hair really carefully
and strongly, if it is supposed to be kind of an interior toy, you can sew it with a couple of
stitches around the hair.
I like a kind of shaggy and goofy hairstyle. It brings a cheeky and very cute look, so I thoroughly
put the strands around the face.
Sew the hair and the strands with a little strength stitches with thread had left.
6. Embroider the scar.

Take a thin thread of dark red or burgundy color (I used YarnArt Jeans 66 divided in 4 parts)
and sew the scar in the shape of lightning with a little strong stitches in the space between
the strands (рiс. 70).
You can also make the whites of the eyes with a couple of stitches after the sculpting (pic.
71).
7. Makeup the details.

Some crafters don't like the face without the smile, 72
so if you think the same you can embroider the
smile what will fits your little wizard.
Also you can make the face cuter if you will make
the blush to the cheeks (рiс. 72).
For the blush I use the eyeshadows, but you also

can make it with the dry pastel.
31
73 74
7. Sewing the head.

Put the head on the neck and pin the head to it (pic.
73-74). Make sure the head is placed strict.
75
I like the technique of the cfaftmaker
@littlefish.crocheterie. It's really neat and an
invisible technique of attaching the pieces
together.
Pay your attention, that the wire must be in the

head deep enough. Stuff the neck tight during the
sewing (pic. 77).
Insert a needle up in to the stitch of the neck (pic.

75), then catch a stitch of the head with a needle
(pic. 76), as if piercing this stitch with a needle -
inserting a needle into a stitch before it and
pulling it out from the next stitch.
76 77
32
Pay attention, If you want the
head to be in the middle without 78
any shifting, work in the “stitch
to stitch” technique. Don't forget
to stuff the head while sewing
and use the pins to help the
process of attaching it.
This is how the head looks after

sewing (pic 78). Very neat.
Now Harry is ready and it's time

to crochet his outfit.
33
Part 2.
outfit
pants 79
With the yarn of khaki color #782.
Don't crochet tight. You need to wear the pants on the doll, so if
you crochet too tight, it can become a problem.
Start to crochet in turning rows, it means you need to

make 1 ch at the end of each row and turn the work
after to crochet from the right to the left again.
Leave a very long tail of the thread in the beginning (at
least 200 cm) and make a chain of 63 sts, from the
2nd st from the hook:
1-2. 62 sc, ch (62)
3. BLO: 62 sc, ch (62)
4-10. 62 sc, ch (62), 7 rnds
11. (6 sc, inc)*8, 6 sc, ch (70)
12. 70 sc, ch (70), (рiс. 79)
13. Make the wrapover from 4 stitches in this rnd.
80
Crochet together the 1st and the 4th (from the end
of the row) stitches (рiс. 80), the 2nd and the 3rd
(from the end) stitches, the 3rd and the 2nd (from
the end) stitches and the 4th and the 1st (from the
end) stitches respectively. Next continue to crochet
in a spiral (4 already crocheted stitches are included
in the next combination): (10 sc, inc)*6 (72), put the
marker in the last stitch.
14. 72 sc (72)
Count 36 sts from the marker and put the 2nd marker
(рiс. 81). You divided the pants into two trouser legs.
Make a chain of 4 sts (рiс. 78) and sc into the stitch
with the 2nd marker (рiс. 82-84) on the back side of
the pants.
81 82
35
Continue to crochet.
For the 1st trouser leg.

83
15. 35 sc, 4 sc along the chain (40), put the
marker, now the rnd will start here.
16-22. 40 sc (40), 7 rnds
In the next 3 rnds we will make a hole under

the middle of the knee, if you don't like a hole
in the pants just skip it and crochet regular 40
sc.
23. 26 sc, put the marker, 9 sc, put the

marker, 5 sc (40), рiс. 85.
24. 26 sc, make a chain of 9 sts, skip 9 sts,
5 sc (40), рiс. 86
25. 26 sc, 9 sc along the chain, 5 sc (40), 84
рiс. 87
26-49. 40 sc (40), 24 rnds
Put the trouser leg on the doll and make sure the
length of the trouser leg is ok for you, if it's not
crochet some rnds till the length will be long
enough. Next crochet about 6 more sts till the
inner middle of the trouser leg, make an invisible
edge, cut the thread and fasten off (рiс. 88).
If you like the roll of the bottom of the pants to be

wider, make some extra rnds.
85 86
36
For the 2nd trouser leg.
Attach the thread on the back side of the 87
pants to the stitch placed before the chain
(рiс. 89) and continue to crochet:
15. 4 sc along the chain, 36 sc along the

pants (40), put the marker, now the rnd will
start here.
16-49. 40 sc (40), 34 rnds
Crochet about 3 shift stitches till the

middle of the inner side of the trouser
leg, make an invisible edge, cut the
Now you can make the roll of the trouser 88

legs (рiс 90).
Next you need to crochet along the top

edge of the pants with the thread we left
in the beginning.
89 90
37
Crochet along the top edge of the pants
with sc, starting from the place of making 91
the chain (рiс. 91) till the edge where the
wrapover are placed, including the
wrapover itself.
To make the corner sharp make 3 sc into 1 st

of this corner stitches.
After crocheting along the edge you will

get a neat wrapover of the pants and the
place for the fly which you will embroider
next (рiс. 92).
Make a contrast stitch line along the belt
area of the pants, along the bottom of
trouser legs and the fly using the "back
stitch" seam (рiс. 93-94). 92
For embroidery I used a thread of dark
brown color #70, divided it in half).
During embroidering the fly the longwise

line will be not strict enough because of
shifting of the stitches in spiral, don't be
upset about that.
Now you need to sew on the snap button

and make and sew the belt loops.
93 94
38
I used invisible plastic snap buttons 7 mm
dia and sew them on with the divided 95
thread of the pants color (рiс. 91).
To make a belt for the pants take the dark

brown thread #70, make a chain of 67
stitches and from the 2nd stitch from the
hook:
hdc, 64 sc, 3 hdc into 1 st, on the other side

of the chain - 64 sc, 2 hdc into 1 st, cut the
Sew the snap buttons to the ends of the belt
to have ability fast it on (рiс. 92). Also you
can embroider the belt buckle with gray yarn.
The last step in assembling the pants - 96

making the belt loops.
Leave a long tail in the beginning, make a

chain of 5 stitches, tight the chain and leave
a long tail for sewing.
Make 3 more belt loops and sew them on to

the top part of the pants symmetrically: 2 pcs
on the front side and 2 pcs on the back side
of the top part of the pants (pic. 93).
Insert the belt into the belt loops. Now the

pants are ready.
97 98
39
shirt
With the thread of lilac color #65. 99
The whole shirt (exept the sleeves) are
crocheting in turning rows. Make 1 ch in the
end of each row and turn the work. Make a
chain of 37 sts. From the 2nd stitch from the
hook:
In the description below I use ③
instead of "3 sc in
the 1 st" to read the description easily.
1. 36 sc, ch (36)
③ ③ ③
2. 5 sc, , 6 sc, , 10 sc, , 6 sc, , 5 sc, ch (44) ③
3. 44 sc, ch (44)
③ ③ ③
4. 6 sc, , 8 sc, , 12 sc, , 8 sc, , 6 sc, ch (52) ③
5. 52 sc, вп (52), вп (52)
③ ③ ③
6. 7 sc, , 10 sc, , 14 sc, , 10 sc, , 7 sc, ch ③
(60)
7. 60 sc, ch (60) 100
③ ③ ③
8. 8 sc, , 12 sc, , 16 sc, , 12 sc, , 8 sc, ch ③
(68)
9. 68 sc, ch (68)
③ ③
10. 9 sc, , 14 sc, , 18 sc, , 14 sc, , 9 sc, ③ ③
ch (76), рiс. 95
11. 11 sc, make a chain of 8 sts, skip 16 sc,
22 sc, make a chain of 8 sts, skip 16 sc, 11
sc, ch (60), (рiс. 100-101)
12-19. 60 сбн, ch (60), 8 rnds
20. (11 sc, inc)*4, 12 sc, ch (64)
21-22. 64 sc, ch (64), 2 rnds
101 102
40
23. (12 sc, inc)*4, 12 sc, ch (68)
24-29. 68 sc (68), ch, 6 rnds, don't cut the
thread. 103
Next we need to divide the bottom of the shirt on
three parts (рiс. 103) to crochet 3 flaps by the
next way:
17 sts, 34 sts, 17 sts.
Continue to crochet, making the 1st flap. All rows
starting from the 2nd st from the hook.
30. 16 sc, ch (16)

31. dec, 14 sc, ch (15)
32. 15 sc, ch (15)
33. dec, 13 sc, ch (14)
34. 14 sc, ch (14)
35. dec, 12 sc, ch (13)
36. 13 sc, ch (13)
37. dec, 11 sc, ch (12) 104
38. 12 sc, ch (12)
39. dec, 10 sc, dec (11)
40. 9 sc, dec (10)
41. 9 sc, ch (9)
42. 7 sc, dec (8), cut the thread and fasten off
(рiс. 104-105).
Going to the middle flap, attach the thread from the

back side to the stitch before the marker (рiс. 106).
All rows starting from the 2nd st from the hook.
30. 32 sc, ch (32)

31. dec, 28 sc, dec, ch (30)
105 106
41
32. 30 sc, ch (30)
33. dec, 26 sc, dec, ch (28)
34. 28 sc, ch (28)
107
35. dec, 24 sc, dec, ch (26)
36. 26 sc, ch (26)
37. dec, 22 sc, dec. ch (24)
38. 24 sc, ch (24)
39. dec, 20 sc, dec, ch (22)
40. dec, 18 sc, dec (20)
41. 17 sc, dec, ch (18)
42. dec, 14 sc, dec (16), cut the thread and
fasten off (рiс. 107-108).
Next we crochet the 2nd flap, attach the thread to

the stitch marked with the 2nd marker and continue
from the next stitch. All rows starting from the 2nd st
from the hook.
30. 16 sc, ch (16)
31. 14 sc, dec, ch (15)
108
32. 15 sc, ch (15)
33. 13 sc, dec, ch (14)
34. 14 sc, ch (14)
35. 12 sc, dec, ch (13)
36. 13 sc, ch (13)
37. 11 sc, dec, ch (12)
38. 12 sc, ch (12)
39. 10 sc, dec, ch (11)
40. dec, 9 sc, ch (10)
41. 8 sc, dec, ch (9)
42. dec, 7 sc, ch (8), don't cut the thread (рис. 109-110).
109 110
42
Now when the main part of the shirt is done you
need to crochet along the edge with single crochet
stitches using the thread lefted after you made the
111
2nd flap (рiс. 110). Make a ch, turn the work the way
that the top of the shirt facing down (рiс. 111).
Don't forget about 3 sc into the corner stitches to make

sharp edges of the corners.
Attach the thread to the 1st stitch of the neck area

(рiс. 113) and go on in turning rows:
1. FLO: ch, (5 hdc, inc from hdc)*6, 2 ch (42)

2. 4 dc, 34 hdc, 4 dc, 2 ch, sl st (42), cut the thread
and fasten off.
108
112 113
114 115
43
Attach the thread of lilac color to the armhole of
the sleeve from the inner side (рiс. 116) and make
the 1st rnd of the sleeve: 116
1. 1 sc at the side, 16 sc along the top part of the
sleeve, 1 sc at the side, 8 sc along the bottom part
of the sleeve (26), (рiс 117).
Continue to crochet in spiral:
2-22. 26 sc (26), 21 rnds, make some shift stitches
till the outer foldation (рiс. 118), I had 12 sc, make
a ch and turn the work:
23. BLO: 26 sc, ch, turn the work (26)
24-25. 26 sc, ch (26), 2 rnds, don't cut the thread,
crochet along the roll of the sleeve, cut the thread
and fasten off (рiс. 120). Repeat with the 2nd
sleeve.
108
117 118
119 120
44
Embroidery checkers on the s hirt.
The last and one of the hardest steps with making the shirt is to embroider the
checkers on it.
I don't have a step by step algorithm, because it was a very laborious process, but I can
give a couple of notes on what you should pay your attention to. I hope it will be less
challenging for you than it was for me.
1. For embroidery use the thread of blue color #58. If you find the lines on my shirt too
thick you can divide the thread as you like .
2. Cut maximally long thread for the embroidery, but the length must be comfortable
for work.
3. Choose the size of the checkers before you start. I chose 4 stitches high and 3
stitches in wide.
121 122 123
124 125 126
4. If you have a textile magical pen (with vanishing ink after washing) it can be very
helpful to make the lines and not mess it up.
5. Embroider the lines with a little stitches. I made them with the "back stitch" seam, 2
stitches wide.
6. Start embroidery from the longwise lines, if you didn't mark how the lines must go,
embroider the lines from the sides. Will be comfortable to make it in rotation: one line
from the right side, one line from the left side.
7. If the distance between all longwise lines will not be the same, don't be upset. But it will be
better if the lines with different distances will be placed at the back of the shirt (рiс. 121).
8. Embroider the transverse lines from the top of the shirt to the bottom,
starting under the collar.
45
9. Fasten the threads off after all lines are done,
but be careful don't tangle it in.
10. Will be very comfortable and neat if you will
127
hide the contrast color thread ends into
transverse stitches on the back side.
11. Don't embroider the checkers on the cuffs
and on the collar, just make the stitches along
their edges (рiс. 122-124).
12. Also make a contrast line along the edges of
the whole shirt, it will bring to it a finished look.
13. Don't forget to sew the buttons on after all
thread ends will be fastened off (рiс. 129)
128
129
46
sweater (crocheted)
With the yarn of blue color #58. 130
The sweater is crocheted in turning rows.
Make a ch in the end of each row and turn
the work. Make a chain of 41 sts.
1. From the 2nd st from the hook: 40 sc, ch (40)

③ ③ ③
2. 6 sc, , 6 sc, , 12 sc, , 6 sc, , 6 sc, ch (48) ③
3. 48 sc, ch (48)
③ ③ ③
4. 7 sc, , 8 sc, , 14 sc, , 8 sc, , 7 sc, ch (56) ③
5. 56 sc, ch (56)
③ ③ ③
6. 8 sc, , 10 sc, , 16 sc, , 10 sc, , 8 sc, ch (64) ③
7. 64 sc, ch (64)
③ ③ ③
8. 9 sc, , 12 sc, , 18 sc, , 12 sc, , 9 sc, ch (72) ③
9. 72 sc, ch (72)
10. 11 sc, make a chain of 9 sts, skip 15 sc, 20 131
sc, make a chain of 9 ch, skip 15 sc, 11 sc, ch
(60), (рiс. 131)
11-18. 60 sc, ch (60), 8 rnds
19. (11 sc, inc)*4, 12 sc, ch (64)
20-21. 64 sc, ch (64), 2 rnds
22. (12 sc, inc)*4, 12 sc, ch (68)
23-26. 68 sc (68), 4 rnds
27. (13 sc, inc)*4, 12 sc, ch (72)
28-32. 72 sc, ch (72), 5 rnds
33. (13 sc, dec)*4, 12 sc, ch (68), don't cut the
thread.
132 133
47
Now you need to crochet along the edges of
the sweater (except the sleeves) with sc (рiс.
134
134-135). Crocheting along the bottom edge
is BLO.
Next we will make the sleeves.

Attach the thread of blue color to the outer
corner of the sleeve (рiс. 137) and make 26
sc: 9 sc along the bottom edge of the sleeve
(рic. 138), 1 sc at the side, 15 sc along the
top edge of the sleeve and 1 sc at the other
side (26), рiс. 139
135 136
137 138
48
Continue to crochet in spiral:
2-20. 26 sc (26), 19 rnds

139
21. (2 sc, dec)*6, 2 sc (20)
22. BLO: 20 sc (20), cut the thread, fasten
off and make the 2nd sleeve (рiс. 140).
Next you need to sew the buttons on the

back of the sweater and make the loops for
them. I made three. Below you can see the
link to the video on how to make the loops.
You can choose any kind of loops you like.
Video how to
make loops 140
141 142
49
sweater (knitted)
143
Wi th t h e y ar n of b l ue c ol or # 5 8.
Knit in turning rows, it means that the first stitch is always
slipped, the last stitch is always purled. Also I use twisted left
(pic. 145) and right (pic. 146) yo, you can find a lot of videos on
youtube, how to do that.
Here and in the further instructions the edge stitches

are taken into a total number of stitches. It means
that if the pattern says k3 in the beginning of the
row, you need to slip one edge st and knit 2 stitches.
The same thing is with the stitches at the end of the
row.
In the description below I use ③ instead of "yo, k, yo" to Vi de o

read the description easily. ho w to
ca st
Cast on 40 stitches:
st itc he s
1. p all stitches (40) on 144
③ ③ ③ ③
2. k6, , k6, , k12, , k6, , k6 (48)
3. p all stitches (48)
③ ③ ③ ③
4. k7, , k8, , k14, , k8, , k7 (56)
③ ③ ③ ③
6. k8, , k10, , k16, , k10, , k8 (64)
③ ③ ③ ③
8. k9, , k12, , 18, , k12, , k9 (72)
10. p11, cast on 9 sts, slip 15 sts of the sleeve onto
an extra knitting needle or onto a thread, p20, cast
on 9 sts, slip 15 sts of the sleeve onto an extra
knitting needle or onto a thread, p11 (60), рiс.
(144).
145 146
50
In the next rnds alternate knit and purl rnds.
11-38. 60 stitches (60), 28 rnds, don't cut the
147
thread (рiс. 147).
Bind off the stitches from the back side, I

prefer to bind the stitches with the hook (pic.
148). Fasten off, secure the thread if you
want to sew three buttons or you can crochet
through the both part of the sweater with sc
till the middle and sew only one button on
the top of the back, as I did (pic. 149-150).
If there are any moments a bit challenging for you

when knitting, perhaps the video about my way of
knitting would be useful for you. My knitting style is far
from perfect, but it works for me. Vi de o of
kn itt in g
tip s
148
149 150
51
Coming back to the sleeves and slip the
stitches of the sleeve from the extra needle 151
and put them on the working needle.
Attach the thread and cast on 11 sts (pic.

151) at the underarm area (I use a crochet
hook for it): 1 stitch at the sides and 9
stitches we had cast on the 10th row of the
sweater. Slip this 11 stitches on the second
circular needle to way that sharp ends of the
needles faced to the seam on the back of the
sweater (pic. 152). Now knit using a “magic
loop” technique.
Vi de o ho w to
1. k15 + k11 (24) kn it in a
2-23. k24 (24), 22 rnds , рiс. 152 cir cl e wi th th e
24. k, (k2, k2tog)*6, k (20), bind off the te ch ni qu e
stitches from the back side, cut the thread and "m ag ic lo op " 152
fasten off (рiс. 153).
Make the same steps with the 2nd sleeve.

Fasten off.
Using the thread we have left at the beginning

of knitting, sew the button on the sweater
neckband (рiс. 154). Next make the loop on the
opposite side of the sweater neckband.
Also I recommend to steam the sweater before

embroidering the letter on it, it will make the
embroidery process easier and neater.
153 154
52
The last step with the sweater -
embroidering the letter "Н". 155
On the knitted sweater I use the stitch into
stitch technique (pic. 155). Looks not perfect
but it works for me.
Below you can see how it makes.
For the horizontal stitches:
156
For the vertical stitches:
On the crocheted sweater I used the "back

stitch" seam (рiс. 156)- 2 stitches wide.
53
Part 3.
the accessories
glasses
You will need the black copper wire 1.5 mm dia, pliers for the handcraft and some
thing with cylindrical shape and suitable dia (equal dia of the glasses lens) about
2.5 cm.
For making the glasses I used the video by Yana Gorbuzova, you can use it or follow
the instructions below and watch my video (placed after the text description).
1. Making the 1st shackle of the glasses.

Bend the tip of a wire in a little loop using a pliers, next make a bigger loop (рiс.
157). This big loop will be a shackle of the glasses, and will be placed on the ear
of the doll.
157 158 159
160 161 162
2. Define the length of the shackle of glasses.

Attach the shackle to the doll face so that its big loop will be handled on the ear and bend a
wire under 90 degrees angle toward the nose in a place where a free end of the wire
reaches the level of the doll's eyes (рiс. 158).
3. Making lenses.
Wrap the wire around your cylindrical thing (рiс. 160) 1,5 times (on the bottom the wire
will be wrapped in two layers) so that the nose bridge starts at the level of the bend of the
shackle to the lens direction (рiс. 161), attach the glasses to the doll face and define the
length of the nose bridge, next make the 2nd lens and the shackle of the glasses with the
loops (рiс. 162).
55
163 164 165
4. Correct the shape of the glasses.

Put the glasses on the doll face, bend it anatomically if needed: shackles, nose bridge, the
lenses or the shape. You can change it as you like.
5. Wrapping the nose bridge.

Cut a little piece of the roll bandage and wrap the nose bridge with it (рiс. 165). Now your
glasses are completely finished.
I took two tries to make the glasses.
166
Video how to make

the glasses
56
suitcase
With the yarn of brown color #493. 167
Crochet in turning rows. Make 1 ch in the end of
each row. Make a chain of 29 stitches.
1-19. From the 2nd stitch from the hook: 28 sc,
ch (28), 19 rnds
20. FLO: 28 sc, ch (28)
21-29. 28 sc, ch (28), 9 rnds
30. FLO: 28 sc, ch (28)
31-49. 28 sc, ch (28), 19 rnds
50. FLO: 28 sc, ch (28)
51-59. 28 sc, ch (28), 9 rnds, draw an outline
around the contour of the part on cardboard (or any
polymer material) and make a longwise lines where
we crocheted FLO (рiс. 167).
Crochet along the edges of three sides of the
perimeter and don't forget to make 3 sc into corner 168
stitches (рiс. 168), cut the thread and fasten off.
Skip the stitch on the corner and count 20 stitches

along the long side of the part (рiс. 169), here will
be the side part of the suitcase. Attach the thread to
the 1st stitch from the right and continue (рiс. 170):
1. BLO: 20 sc, ch (20)
2-10. 20 sc, ch (20), 9 rnds, cut the thread and fasten
off.
Repeat symmetrically on the other side. Leave a long

tail for sewing, cut the thread and fasten off.
169 170
57
You have a T-shaped part (рiс. 171), don't cut
the thread. Now we need to make the cardboard
171
skeleton. Make incisions with a utility or kitchen
knife along the line you made (рiс. 172) and bend
the cardboard according to these lines (рiс. 173).
Starting to sew the suitcase from the inner

corner (рiс. 174) so that the one of sewing sides
uses only its back loops. Make sure you sew on
the parts stitch in stitch technique, otherwise the
shape of the suitcase will be broken. Sew only
three from the all four sides (pic.175), don't cut
the thread.
172 173
174 175
58
Now put the cardboard skeleton into the
suitcase. Stuff it tight enough, but not too
176
much. Sides of the suitcase must not be
warp (рiс. 176). It will be comfortable to
close the top of the cardboard with the roll
bandage to prevent its opening while
sewing.
Sew the last fourth side of the suitcase. Use

pins to fix sides to each other for easier
sewing (рiс. 178).
Don't forget that one side must be sewn

back loops only. Going to other parts.
CORNERS
With the yarn of caramel color #499, make
8 pcs. 177
1. 6 sc in MR (6)
2. (sc, inc)*3 (9), cut the thread and leave a
long tail for sewing.
Make an invisible edge on each of the

corners and pin them to the suitcase for
following sewing (рiс. 180).
178 179
59
I recommend to sew the corners on back loops
only, it will bring more texture (рiс. 181).
180
BELTS
With the yarn of caramel color #499, make 8
pcs.
Make a chain of 68 stitches, from the 2nd

stitch from the hook:
sl st, 2 sc, 64 hdc (67), cut the thread, make
an invisible edge and leave a long tail or
sewing (рiс. 182).
Pin the belt to the suitcase for sewing (рiс.

183) it with a strong little stitches.
181 182
183 184
60
HAN D LE
W i t h t h e y a r n of c a r a mel c o l o r # 4 99. 185
M a k e a c h ai n of 2 3 s t s, f r om t h e 2n d
s t i t c h f r o m t he hoo k :
4 h d c , 1 4 s c , 3 hdc , 3 hdc i nt o t h e 1
s t i t c h , on t he ot her s i d e o f t he c h a i n - 3
hdc , 1 4 s c , 3 hdc , 2 hdc i nt o t he 1 s t i t c h ,
c ut t h e t hr ea d, m ak e an i nv i s i bl e e d ge an d
l ea v e a l on g t ai l f o r s ewi ng (р i с. 18 5 ) .
Pi n t h e h an dle t o t he s ui t c as e ( р iс . 1 86 )
on t h e t op s ide and s ew i t on wi t h a l i t t l e
s t r o ng s t it c hes .
186
I f y ou h av e t he pat i e nc e y o u c a n
em b r oid er t h e l ogo of Ho gwar t s o n t h e
f r on t s i d e of t he s u i t c as e ( рiс . 1 87- 1 88) .
Now t he s ui t c as e i s c om pl et e!
187 188
61
cake 189
With the yarn of pink color #33.
1. 6 sc in MR (6)
2. 6 inc (12)
3. (sc, inc)*6 (18)
4. (2 sc, inc)*6 (24)
5. (3 sc, inc)*6 (30)
6. (4 sc, inc)*6 (36)
7. (5 sc, inc)*6 (42)
8. (6 sc, inc)*6 (48)
9. (7 sc, inc)*6 (54)
10. (8 sc, inc)*6 (60), draw an outline
around the contour of the part on
cardboard (or any polymer material) and
cut the part out. 190
11. (9 sc, inc)*6 (66)
If y o u l i ke to c r o ch e t th e ca k e b a c k si d e o u t, th e n
ma k e th e 1 2 th r n d F L O , i f yo u l i k e to c r o c h e t th e
c a ke b a c k si d e i n , th e n ma ke th e 1 2 th r n d B L O .
12. FLO: 66 sc (66)

13-21. 66 sc (66), 9 rnds, cut the thread, make
an invisible edge and leave a long tail for sewing.
Next we need to embroider the lettering on the

cake as you see on рiс. 190 with the thread of
green color and the lightning which is cutting the
cake with dark pink color.
I made big enough stitches with transverse fixing 191

them (рiс. 191). Now put the cardboard inside
the cake and go on to make the box.
62
With the yarn of cream color #67.
In the description below I use ③

instead of "3 sc in
192
the 1st" to read the description easily.
PART А
1. 8 sc in MR (8)
③
2. ( , sc)*4 (16)
③
3. 2 sc, ( , 3 sc)*3, ③
, sc (24)
③
4. 3 sc, ( , 5 sc)*3, ③
, 2 sc (32)
③
5. 4 sc, ( , 7 sc)*3, ③
, 3 sc (40)
③
6. 5 sc, ( , 9 sc)*3, ③
, 4 sc (48)
③
7. 6 sc, ( , 11 sc)*3, ③
, 5 sc (56)
③
8. 7 sc, ( , 13 sc)*3, ③
, 6 sc (64)
③
9. 8 sc, ( , 15 sc)*3, ③
, 7 sc (72)
③
10. 9 sc, ( , 17 sc)*3, ③
, 8 sc (80)
③ ③
11. 10 sc, ( , 19 sc)*3, , 9 sc (88), draw an outline
around the contour of the part on thin cardboard (or 193
any polymer material) and cut the it out (рiс. 192).
③ ③
12. 11 sc, ( , 21 sc)*3, , 10 sc, sl st, ch (96),
don't cut the thread, turn the work front side up
and continue to work (рiс. 164).
13. BLO: 96 sc (96), рi с. 194

14-15. 96 sc (96), 2 rnds, cut the thread and
make an invisible edge.
PART B
Repeat the rnds from the 1st till the 12th of
part A, then steam the part B. Fold the parts
A and B together with back sides faced to
each other and crochet along the edges of
both parts together with 96 sc (рiс. 195).
194
Don't forget to put the cardboard into the
bottom of the box. Will be better to do that
after you crochet along 3 sides of the
bottom (рiс. 196). Make an invisible edge
and fasten the thread off.
Next going to the top.
63
TOP OF THE BOX
Repeat the top part of the part A from the
195
1st rnd till the 13th rnd:
1. 8 sc in MR (8)
③
2. ( , sc)*4 (16)
③
3. 2 sc, ( , 3 sc)*3, , sc (24) ③
③
4. 3 sc, ( , 5 sc)*3, , 2 sc (32) ③
③
5. 4 sc, ( , 7 sc)*3, , 3 sc (40) ③
③
6. 5 sc, ( , 9 sc)*3, , 4 sc (48) ③
③
7. 6 sc, ( , 11 sc)*3, , 5 sc (56) ③
③
8. 7 sc, ( , 13 sc)*3, , 6 sc (64) ③
③
9. 8 sc, ( , 15 sc)*3, , 7 sc (72) ③
③
10. 9 sc, ( , 17 sc)*3, , 8 sc (80)③
③
11. 10 sc, ( , 19 sc)*3, ③
, 9 sc (88)
③
12. 11 sc, ( , 21 sc)*3, ③
, 10 sc, sl st, ch
(96)
13. BLO: 96 sc (96) 196
14-23. 96 sc (96), 10 rnds, cut the thread
and make an invisible edge (рiс. 197).
Steam the top part for its neater look and

to make sharp edges.
Now sew the cake to the bottom part of

the box. Pin the cake in the center of the
bottom part of the box (рiс. 198) and sew
it on with little strong stitches. Don't
forget to stuff the cake during sewing.
197 198
64
Now t he c a k e i s done and as s em b l e d . P u t
t he t o p of t he box o n.
199
To loo k m or e l i k e t he o r i gi n al I c u t t he
t hr e a d of b lue c ol o r , mad e k not s o n i t s
end s an d t ied t he t hr ead on t he bo x wi t h
t he c a k e ( р iс. 20 0) .
200
65
So here is our journey of making the most kind and brave wizard is coming over. Let this
little boy bring you only happy memories. And if he will miss the free elf or you want
him to get a windy ride, take a look to the pages of Olga to have the fastest broomstick
Nimbus 2000 or the faster snitch you have ever seen:
@fox_and_dog
Mischief managed!
vk.com/fox_and_dog_patterns
www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100015765137140
That is it.
Please, remember to tag your doll using #kru_pattern and don't forget to mention me whenever you
post one of my toys.
Give to your creation kindness and lovely stories.
Thanks for your interest
to my work and see you
soon!
66

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This pattern doesn’t include any crochet lessons.

Author: Kseniya Krupskaya

A l s o pl eas e rem em b e r t o t a g me o n you r fi ni s h ed w o r k

I w i l l b e g l ad t o get a ny f eedba c k fro m Y ou !

Of course I had a lot of

Now I would like you to share

T h e se ma t e ria ls a re o n ly a list o f my re co mme n d a tio n s

Jeans #65 Jeans #46

Alize Cotton Alize Cotton

Gold #58 Gold #782

Alize Cotton Gazzal Baby

Gold #499 Cotton #3433

Alize Cotton Alize Cotton

Gold #67 Gold #33

Alize Cotton Alize Cotton

Gold #493 Gold #35

Circular needles (RU):

Black wire (RU): https://ozon.ru/t/zdV7Z2M

Flat safety eyes 6 mm dia: https://sl.aliexpress.ru/p?key=YnSlwVr

Plastic snap buttons (RU):

About a glue. I didn't

If you w r ap the thread, pl ac i ng t he hook under neat h the y arn s trand ( Y ar n

Video how to make

You can scan or tap on

Th e n um ber i n br a c k et s a t t he end o f e ver y r oun d mea ns a t ot a l n um ber o f

About c ol or c han gi ng . I r ec o mm e n d t o c h a nge c o l o r i n t h e l as t s t i t c h o f a

About de c rea s e s . I mak e i nv i s ibl e d e c r e as es - w o r k i n F LO , bu t i t ' s ea s i er t o

The arms are identical except the placement of

Stuff the tip of the palm a bit.

Try to crochet free enough, especially pay attention

Mak e t h e 2nd s l eev e.

Make a chain of 9 stitches.

1. From the 2nd st from the hook: inc, 6 sc, 3 sc

Draw an outline around the contour of the foot on

5. BLO: 34 sc (34), the end of the rnd must be placed

13-16. 14 sc (14), 4 rnds, change the color to beige

17. BLO: 14 sc (14)

Next we need to choose the place for the marker

If you need more details, please take a look on the

That w as t h e bo ot t ongu e of gussette.

Nex t w e need t o mak e upper a l s o w i t h

The last st also must be crocheted into the front st of the

You s hou l d dec i de i f y ou want t o t i gh t t h e

W e' v e a t t ac hed t wo l egs t o ea c h o t h e r . N o w

41. [BLO: 14 sc along the 1st leg (last st in the

42. [ BLO : 1 5 s c al o ng t he 1s t l e g], 12 s c

43-51. 54 sc (54), 9 rnds, make some shift

Stuff the body during the crocheting, otherwise

Before starting the 71st rnd you can need the

Crochet till the marker of the 1st arm (рiс. 34) if it is

Please pay attention to this fact. Only you can decide

When attaching the arms we need to crochet through the sleeves,

In the 72nd rnd we finish attaching the arms by the

72. 5 sc along the 1st arm and the sleeve, 12 sc along

Now we need to insert the wire into the arms.

Unfortunately I missed making the picture of

78-82. 16 sc (16), 5 rnds, leave a long tail for

I use a household lighter. But be careful on this step, your crocheted

Next we start to crochet strands (I recommend make