A Description of The Western Islands of

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DESCRIPTION

OF THE

Weltern IllandS

OF

SCOTLAND .

CONTAINING

A Full Account of their Situation, Extent, Soils,


Product, Harbours, Bays, Tides, Anchoring
Places , and Fisheries.
The Ancient and Modern Government, Religion and
Cuftoms of the Inhabitants, particularly of their
Druids, Heathen Temples, Monafteries, Churches,
Chappels, Antiquities, Monuments, Forts, Caves,
and other Curiofities of Art and Nature. 'Oftheir
Admirable and Expeditious way of Curing moft
Difeafes by Simples of their own Product.
A Particular Account of the Second Sight, or Faculty
of foreſeeing things to come, by way of Vifion,!
fo common among them .
A Brief Hint of Methods to Improve Trade in that
Country, both by Sea and Land .
With a New MAP of the whole, defcribing the
Harbours, Anchoring Places, and dangerous Rocks,
for the benefit of Sailers.
To which is added a Brief Defcription of the Ifles of
Orkney, and Schetland.

By M. MARTIN, Gent.

LONDON, Printed for Andrew Bell, at the Crofs-Keys and


Bible, in Cornbil, near Stocks-Market, 1703.
To His Royal Highness Prince
GEORGE of Denmark,

Lord High Admiral of Eng-

land, and Ireland, and of all

Her Majefties Plantations,

and Generaliffimo of all Her

Majefties Forces, &c .

May it pleaſe Your Royal Highneſs,

Mongft the Numerous Croud

A of Congratulating Addref-

fers, the flanders defcri-

bed in the following Sheets prefume

to approach Your Royal Perfon ;

they can now without fufpicion of

Infidelity to the Queen of England,

pay their Duty to a Danish Prince

to whofe Predeceſſors all of them


a 2 former-
The Dedication.

formerly belonged. They can boaft


that they are honoured with the Se-

pulchres of Eight Kings of Nor-

way, who at this day, with forty

eight Kings of Scotland, and four

of Ireland, lie Entomb'd in the

Island of Jona ; a Place Fam'd

then for fome peculiar Sanctity.

They prefume that it is owing to

their great diftance from the Im-

perial Seat, rather than their want

of Native Worth, that their Iflands

have been fo little regarded, which

by Improvement might render a

confiderable acceffion ofStrength and


Riches to the Crown, as appears

by a Scheme annexed to the follow-

ing Treatife. They have fuffer'd


hitherto under the want of a pow-

erful and affectionate Patron , Pro-

vidence
The Dedication.

a
videncefeems to have given them
Natural Claim to Your Royal

Highneſs and tho' it be almost

prefumption for fo Sinful a Nation

to hope for fo great a Bleffing,

they do humbly join with their

Prayers to God, that the Prote-

Elion which they hope for from two

Princes of fo much Native Worth

and Goodness , might be continu'd

in Your Royal Pofterity to all Ge-

nerations ; fo Prays

May it pleaſe your Royal Highness,

Your Highneſſes moft Humble

and moft Obedient Servant,

M. Martin.

a 3
THE

PREFACE

HE Western Islands of Scotland,

THwhich make the Subject of the

following Book, were called by the

Ancient Geographers Ebude, and He-


brides, but they knew fo little of them
that they neither agreed in their Name
nor Number. Perhaps it is pecu-
liar to thoſe Ifles, that they have never
been defcrib'd till now by any Man that

was a Native of the Country, or had


travelled them. They were indeed

touch'd by Boethius , Biſhop Lefly , Bu-

channa , and Johnston, in their Hiftories


of Scotland, but none of thofe Authors

were ever there in Perfon ; ſo that what

they wrote concerning ' em was upon


truft from others. Buchannan it is true,

had his Information from Donald Monro,

who had been in many of " em, and


therefore his Account is the beſt that

has hitherto appear'd, but it must be


own'd
The Preface.

own'd that it is very imperfect ; that

Great Man defign'd the Hiftory and not

the Geography ofhis Country,and there-

fore in him it was pardonable. Befides,


fince his time, there's a great Change in

the Humour of the World, and by con-

ſequence in the way of Writing. Na-

tural and Experimental Philoſophy has


been much improv'd fince his days, and
therefore Deſcriptions ofCountries with-

out the Natural Hiftory of ' em , are


now juftly reckon'd to be defective.

This I had a particular regard to in

the following Defcription, and have


every where taken notice of the Nature

of the Climate and Soil , of the Produce

of the Places by Sea and Land , and of


the Remarkable Cures perform'd by the

Natives meerly by the use of Simples ,


and that in fuch variety as I hope will
make amends for what Defects may be

found in my Stile and way of Writing ;


for there's a Wantonneſs in Language as

well as in other things, to which my

Countrymen of the Ifles are as much


ftrangers, as to other Exceffes which are
24 too
2 4
The Preface.

too frequent in many parts of Europe.


We ftudy Things there more than
Words, tho' thofe that underſtand our

Native Language muft own that we

have enough of the latter to inform

the Judgment, and work upon the Af-


fections in as pathetick a manner as any
other Languages whatever. But I go

on to my Subject ;
The ifles here defcrib'd are but little

known, or confidered, not only by


Strangers, but even by thofe under the
fame Government and Climate.

The Modern Itch after the Know-

ledge of Foreign Places is fo prevalent ,


that the generality of Mankind beſtow

little thought or time upon the Place of

their Nativity ; it is become Cuftomary


in thoſe of Quality to Travel young

into Foreign Countries, whilft they are


abfolute Strangers at home ; and many
of them when they return, are only

loaded with fuperficial Knowledge, as


the bare Names of Famous Libraries,

Stately Edifices, Fine Statues, Curious


Paintings, late Faſhions, new Diſhes ,.
new
The Preface.

new Tunes, new Dances, Painted


Beauties, and the like.

The Places here mentioned afford no

fuch Entertainment, the Inhabitants in

general prefer Conveniency to Orna-

ment, both in their Houfes and Appa-

rel, and they rather ſatisfie than oppreſs

Nature, in their way of Eating and

Drinking ; and not a few among them


have a Natural Beauty, which excels
any that has been drawn by the fineſt

Apelles.
The Land and the Sea that encom-

paffes it, produces many things Uſeful


and Curious in their kind, feveral of
which have not hitherto been mention'd

by the Learned ; this may afford the


Theorift fubject of Contemplation,

fince every Plant of the Field, every

Fiber of each Plant, and the leaft Parti-


cle of the ſmalleſt Infect carries with it

the impreſs of its Maker ; and if rightly


confider'd, may read us Lectures of Di-
vinity and Morals.
The Inhabitants of theſe Iſlands de

for the moft part labour under the want


of
The Preface.

of knowledge of Letters, and other

ufeful Arts and Sciences ; notwith-

ftanding which defect, they ſeem to be


better vers'd in the Book of Nature,

than many that have greater opportuni-


ties of improvement ; this will appear

plain and evident to the judicious Rea-


der, upon a view of the fuccefsful

Practice of the Iflanders in the preſerva-

tion of their Health, above what the

generality of Mankind enjoys, and this

is perform'd meerly by Temperance ,

and the prudent ufe of Simples, which,

as we are affur'd ' by repeated Experi-


ments , fail not to remove the moſt

ftubborn Distempers, where the beſt

prepar'd Medicines have frequently no


fuccefs. This I relate not only from
the Authority of many of the Inhabi-

tants, who are Perfons of great integrity,

but likewife from my own particular .

Obfervation ; and thus with Celfus they


first make Experiments, and afterwards

proceed to reafon upon the Effects.

Humane Induſtry has of late advanc'd


uſeful and experimental Philofophy

very
The Preface .

very much, Women and illiterate Per-


fons have in fome meaſure contributed

to it by the diſcovery of fome uſeful

Cures ; the Field of Nature is large,


and much of it wants ftill to be cultiva-

ted by an ingenious and diſcreet appli-

cation ; and the Curious by their Ob-

fervations might daily make further ad-


vances in the Hiftory of Nature.
Self prefervation is natural to every
living Creature, and thus we ſee the fe-
veral Animals of the Sea and the Land

ſo careful of themſelves, as to obſerve

nicely what is agreeable , and what is


hurtful to them, and accordingly they

chuſe the one, and reject the other.


The Husbandman and the Fiſher

could expect but little fuccefs without


obſervation in their feveral Employ-

ments, and it is by obſervation that the

Phyfician commonly judges of the Con-


dition of his Patient. A Man of Ob-

fervation proves often a Phyfician to


himſelf, for it was by this that our An-

ceftors preferv'd their Health till a good


old Age, and that Mankind laid up
that
The Preface :

that flock of Natural Knowlege of

which they are now poffefs' d .


The Wife Solemon did not think it be-

neath him to write of the meaneft Plant,


as well as of the taleft Cedar. Hypocra
tes was at the Pains and Charge

to Travel Foreign Countries with a de-

fign to learn the Vertues of Plants,

Roots, c. I have in my little Tra-


vels endeavour'd among other things in
ſome meaſure to imitate fo great a Pat-

tern,and if I have been fo happy as to ob-


lige the Republick of Learning with any

thing that is uſeful, I have my Defign.

I hold it enough for me to furniſh my


Obfervations, without accounting for
the Reaſon and Way that thofe Simples
produce them ; this I leave to the Learn-

ed in that Faculty, and if they would


oblige the World with fuch Theorems
from theſe and the like Experiments, as

might ſerve for Rules upon Occafions of

this Nature, it would be of great ad-


vantage to the Publick.

As for the Improvement of the Ifles

in general, it depends upon the Govern-


ment
The Preface.

ment of Scotland, to give Eucourage-

ment for it to fuch Publick Spirited Per-


fons or Societies as are willing to lay

out their Endeavours that way ; and

how large a Field they have to work

upon, will appear, by taking a Survey


of each, and of the Method of Im-
provement that I have hereunto ſub-

join'd.

There is fuch an Account given here

of the Second Sight as the Nature of the

thing will bear. This has always been

reckon'd fufficient among the unbiaſs'd


part of Mankind ; but for thoſe that

will not be fo fatisfied, they ought to

oblige us with a New Scheme, by

which we may judge of Matters of


Fact.

There are ſeveral Inftances of Hea-

theniſm and Pagan Superftition among


the Inhabitants of the Iflands related

here,but I would not have the Reader to


think thoſe Practices are chargeable upon

the generality of the preſent Inhabitants ;


fince only a few of the Oldeft and moſt

Ignorant of the Vulgar are guilty of


em .
The Preface, & c.

'em. Theſe Practices are only to be

found, where the Reform'd Religion


has not prevail'd ; for 'tis to the Pro-

grefs of that alone that the Banifhment

of Evil Spirits, as well as of Evil Cu-


ftoms is owing, when all other Me-

thods prov'd ineffectual. And for the

Iſlanders in general, I may truly ſay,


that in Religion and Vertue they excel
many thouſands of others, who have

greater Advantages of daily Improve ,


ment.

THE
THE

CONTENTS

HE Iẞle ofLewis its different Names, Shire,


T and Diocefs, Air Corrective, Soil, Clay,
Veſſels, Fruitfulness, Corn, Ground how manur'd,
Soot produces the Jaundice, effects of Ground
when firft Tilled. Page 1 , 2.
Industry of the Inhabitants, way of digging, a
Strange Harrow, how us'd : Treftarig and Uſque-
bah-baul how made, and their effects. P. 3.
An Account of the Bays , and Habours, Fish, Gal-
lan Whale deftroys three Men, Toung Whales how
killed, they are nourishing Food. P. 4, 5.
Whales called Sea-Pork, the larger more looſe-
ning, various kind of Shell-
fish, how they corrupt
the Air, and the time. Corral Trouts and Eels,
their Bait.
P. 6.
o m f roffing arvas iver y
T h e C u s t o C B R ,b a Male,
le gs
and not a Fema , the first day of May ; Sprin
n s s t i o u s
and Fount
ai tie fti
, their Quali , a Super Ex-
m e n t r
peri about the Wate . P. 7.
Caves, Natural and Artificial Forts, their
Form , Thruffel Stone. p. 8.
n
A Heathe Temple, its Figure &c. P. 9.
Fo rr es t , D e e r a n d Ca t t l e , ho fe in time of
w d
a Storm, old Roots of Trees . p. 10.
A bush of Wood ; State of Health, and Confti-
tution of the Inhabitants ; their Diſeaſes, Vuri-
ous Cures P. II , 12 .
A Pre-
The CONTENTS.

A Preternatural Birth, Ingenuity of the Na-


tiver, Love ofMufick, their Exerciſes , Fatigue ;
Inferiour Ifles their Defcription, a Stone Dyke
lately difcovered in the Sea. p. 13, 14, 15.
Flannan Iles their Product, Superftitious
Cuſtom ofSailing , Fowling, &c. us'd by the Inha-

bitants. p. 16, 17, 18.


Pigmies ar Lusbird . The Ifle Rona its ex-
tent, Product, Inhabitants , their Devotions , way
of Living, Customs . Mr. Merifon his Reception,
Homage ; a Prefent given him and his Man, he is
feen after the manner ofthe Second Sight. The Inha-
bitants how they all Perished , Colk a rare Fowl,a
New Colony, &c. p. 19, 20, 21 , 22, 23 , 24, 25 .
Siant Ifle , Eagles their Policy, Blue Stone, Europy
Point, the Ifles above make two Parishes,Churches
their Names and Number. p. 26, 27.
Ancient Natives ſay their Pater Nofter at first
view of a Church : Sacrifice offered to a Sea God,
and how. P. 28.
Inhabitants their Religion ; and Experiment of
HolyWater, Festivals ; Stornvay Village, Pro-`
P. 29, 30.
prietor.
Harries , Extent , Soil, Air, how qualified,Har-
bours,Frefh Lakes,Springs ,their various Qualities :
Caves,Forts,Stones on end. P. 31 , 32, 33 , 34.

Number of Deer, &c. Mertrick its Fur &c.

twofort of Eagles. P. 35 , 36 .
A Viper, Rats, how destroyed, a tone Circle
in the Sea, various Shells, Os Cepix how uſed,
Milacca Beans,Amulers, Ambergreeſe. p. 37 , 38.

Hearing
The CONTENTS.

Hearing loft how reftor'd . Blindness in Sheep.


bow reftored. A Foal with Cloven Feet. Carrot
Seed inftead of Hops. P. 39, 40.
A fingular Cure for the Cold ; a Worm how
taken out of ones Check. Allium, how fuccessful
against the Stone, Lunar Stone. p. 41 .
A Man loft his Sight at the Moon's Change.
Great Product of Barley. Sea-ware enrich the
Ground. A fubftance like Slake, grows in the
Ground. P. 42, 43 :
Several Irregularities in the Tides. Two Ra-
vens, Stones erected. P. 44, to 47.
Pabbay Ifle, Tokens of Wood gain'd by the Sea.
A Fat Pudding Calms the Sea, and attracts the
Whales. Sheep with Big Horns. P. 48.
Two Chappels. A Tradition there proves falfe.
A Secret Sign among the Inhabitants of Taranfay.
Big Sales in Gasker Ifle. A Pair of Sales and
Hammer dug out of a Grave in the Sands. A
Vein of Adamant in Quedam Ifle, no Mice can
live in it. P. 49, 50.
Hermetra Ifle hath the Foundation of a Maga-
zin us'd when the Fishery was there. The rocky
Channel between the Ifle Uift andHarries all rocky
but Navigable, Festivals , Cavalcade. P. 51 , 52 .
The Ifle North Uiſt, its Figure, Soil, great
Produce, Corn, two Plooughs, Bays, four hundred
Sail loaded with Herring in it. A Magazin Houſe
for the great Fishery, Shell Fish. p. 53 , 54, 55.
Mackrel run a Shore with Spring Tides, and
bow theyarepreferved. A strange way ofThickning
Cloath. A vaft Number of Fresh Lakes, they a-
bound with Eels, and Trouts. P. 56, 57.
b Cod
The CONTENTS.

Cod, Ling, Mackrel &c. Fish caught in Lakes ,


A Marled Salmon defcrib'd, Shell Fish : Ancient
Forts, Cairns of Stone. P. 58.
Falfe Sentinals, ſeveral Stones on end, a Stone
on end, to which Malefactors were tied, at Di-
vine Service, theWater Cross. P. 59.
Several forts of Fewel. Cheefe falted with
Afbes of Barley-ftraw. An Earthen Pitcher full
ofBones. The Policy of Ravens &c. Seals how
taken with Nets. The yearly attaque on Seals in
Coufmil Rock,Seals their Naturality , &c. 61, 62,
63.
Seals how eat, preferved, how it is us’d againſt
Diarrhea and Difenteria. Seals ' d against the
Chin-cough, its way of Leaping, the Skin how
us'd, Hams made of Seals. A Difpute whether
a Seal be Fish or Flefh. p. 64, 65.
Heisker Rocks.
P. 66.
The Ile Borera. A Mare brings forth a Fole
in her Second Tear. Fine Dulfe, Monks Field,
Grave Stones, Tradition of Monks Pofture in time
of Prayer. p. 68
Lingay Ife its Produce, it has been efteem'd
Sacred Beef falted in the Cows Hide. Cows
fatned by Sea- ware. p. 69.
Deer feed on Sea-ware. Eagle how it fifbes.
Fowl of Sea and Land. Black Eagle deftroys
Lamb, Deer and Fawn. A vow at the eating of
a Swan. The Colk defcrib'd. The Gowlin Prog-
nofticates Fair Weather. 70, 71

The Gowlin Notes play'd on the Pipe. The


Rain Geefe foretells Rain. The Bishop Fowl cures.
the Sciatica. The Bird Goylirforetells a Storm.7 2
The
The CONTENTS.

The Bird Screachanattin, its affection to its


Mate. Obfervation of Eggs. Wild-geefe. p. 73
Barren Fowl. Air its Properties. Snow its
time. Obfervations of Frost and Rain. Obferva-
tion of the North Eaft Winds. Difeafes.
Cures. 74, 75
A Native called the Rain Almanack. A Houſe
in which a Cock doth not Crew from September
till March. Longevity of the Natives, their
Charity. An Inn a great rarity. Cuftom of ask-
ing Grain, Cows &c. Gratis. 76, 77, 78
.
The Anniversary Cavalcade. A Custom tole-
rated the night before the Cavalcade. How
they runfor a Prize, Bridles, Whips how made.
Mutual Prefents.Proprietor Religion.78,79,80
Benbecula Ifle, a Harbour, Soil. A Vault
having manySmall Bones in it. Opinion concerning
them; Proprietor. A lay Capuchin, his Habit,
&c. 82 , 83
The Ifle South Uift, Soil, Corn, Fresh Lakes,
Old Forts. Ambergreefe found here. Froft kill
Fifh. Inhabitants, Diet, Habit. A Native
130 Years Old. Stone Kairns, Superftition of
the Natives. 84, 85, 86
Eriſca Ile, Anchorage, Fishings, the Ground
cafts up Heath. A Caution to Travellers by
Land. Vipers of late difcovered. 87
Inhabitants their Language, Drefs, Hofpita-
lity, their Alliances with Proteftants. Churches,
Bowing Stone, a Buckle of Gold. Proprietor,
Cavalcade, St. Michaels Cake. Manufcripts
in the Irish Character and Language. 88, 89

b 2 The
The CONTENTS.

The Iſle ofBarray, its length, fituation, Pro-


duce, Corn, ibid.

Plenty of Fish, Small Ships from Orkney for


Fifh. A Harbour. Speckled Salmon, and how
taken, &c. 90
Forts, Orchard, Tobacco growing there. Kif
mal the Heretors Seat, a Tower, Magazine. ibid.
The Officers Cockman, Conftable. The Proper-
ties of feveral Wells. Embrioes of Cockles. Chap-
pel. St. Barrs Image, the Inhabitants pay reli-
gious Worship to it, Tradition concerning St. Barr.
91, 92
The more Southern Illes defcrib'd, their produce
of Fish, Corn, &c. A Stone rubb'd to their Breaft
and why,
93,94
Inhabitants their Hoſpitality, a fingular way
of lodging Strangers, 95
An unknown Root, The Ifle Linmul, Fowl,
Climber, Gingick his hazard, reward, &c. 96
Women and Men apply to Mackneilfor aMatch,
and he recommend the Match. St. Chriftophers
Altar, the Natives perform their Devotion at
it ; a Tennant's Misfortune fupplied, 97
The Proprietors Care of his Tenants, obferva-
tion of Sheep,Anchorage. The Steward his Per-
quifits, 98
Inferior Officers their perquifits.
Religion St.
Barr, his anniversary Cavalcade, a Prieft's recep
tion, and a difpute with him concerning St. Barr.
Proprietor, his Antiquity, his Vaſſalage, Tribute,
&c 99, 100
e
Th anc ien t d
an mo de rn Cu st om s of th e Inhabi-
tants of the Western Isles of Scotland, 101,to 123\
Courts
The CONTENTS.

Courts of Judicatory, offenfive and defenfiv:


Leagues, the formality of giving a Farm to a Te-
nant, 124, 125 .
Church Difcipline. A Form of Prayer used
by the Islanders at Sea, 126 , to 130
The Isle of Skie, its Etymology, Scituation,
Shire, Diocefs, S. E. Moon caufeth High Tide,
31
Mold, Earth's various, their Effects, Marcaf-
tes, Aggat, Chryftal, Marble, Limestone, Cor-
nua Ammonis, 132, 133
Velumnities, Stone refembling Goats Horns,
Lapis Hecticus, its Qualities, 134
Corkir,Crotil, Talk, 135
Harbours, Mountains, 136 , 137 , 138
The Mountain Quillin the cauſe of Rain, Soil,
very good, fromfeveral Inftances, 139
Digging yields a better Increaſe than plowing,
Springs and Fountains their Qualities. Some are
under a Vow of coming to Lockfiant Well, an
Offering is left on the Stones above the Well,
140
The Wood near theWell esteemed facred,a Trout
carefully preferved. Thirty Rivers afford Sal-
mon, Pearl, 141
Prognoftick of Rain, Bait and Seafon for Ang-
ling Trout, a fresh Lake, afford Pearl; this fle
anciently covered with Wood, fome Coppices, 142
Herring in feveral Bays, all kind of Fifh fol-
low them, all Fiſh have a leader. A strange Ob-
Jervation ofHerring ; Herring preferved without
Salt ; all Fifh abound on this Coaft ; the Season
for fifhing, feveral forts of Bait, 143, 144
b 3. The
The CONTENTS.

The Bays, c. afford various Shell Fish ;


great plenty of Oysters, Nurses Milk how to in-
creafe . Faundice occafioned by eating the Patella ,
Obfervations ofthe Patella, 145 , 146
Of the Balamos, Periwinkle , Cockles, &c . Ob-
Servation of Fish, 147
Sea Plants, their Qualities ; Sleep to procure,
Megrim bow cured : Slake its Qualities. 143
Dulfe its properties , of the Alga- Marina,
149
White and red Corral, their Effects, a Cave
}
putrifies Water, 150
Several Caves, Cairns, Stones fet on end, the
Giant Finemock Cowl, 151, 152
Danish Forts ferve as Beacons, Names of Forts,
Houfes, DruidsHoufes, Coal lately found, Cattle,
& c. 153, 154
ACow how impos'd upon by the skin of her dead
Calf, and how pacified.Cows how deterr'd from
any place. Cows diftinguish the Tides without
fight of theSea. Cows how they prefage their
Mafters death. A Native being killed, his Cows
gave Blood inftead of Milk about that very
time, p. 155, 156.
A Monftrous Calf, a Cow brought forth five
Calves all at once ; a Calf with double feet :
Calves baving the Ear flit, Land and Water
Fowl, the difference betwixt good and bad Cormo-
rants, their Broth reftore Milk in Nurfes, they
foretell the Winds.Obferv. of the Oyl of Land and
Sea-Fowl, and of the St. Kilda Fowl. Sea Pye

prefagesfair weather, p. 157, 158.


Amphibia. Obfervation ofOtters, various Ser-
pents,
The CONTENTS.

pents, how they kill, Cures for the biting of Ser-


pents, 159, 160.
Two fort ofWeafels, and their effects. The

Peninfula Oronfay excells in Pafturage, 161 ,


162.
The Ile Rafay, a white Subſtance from petri-
fied Water, proves good Lime. A Stone Quarry,
a Law obferv'd in Fishing, 163.
Forts Proprietor. Pyramids erected for every
deceat'd Lady, 164
Hectick Stone reddish . Shoals of Her-
ring. 165
The 1fle Fladda frequented by a monstrous
Whale. A Superftitious Custom for procuring a
fairWind, 166

A Stone much regarded by the Natives. The


Monk gorgon. The Tour us'd by Birds and
Men,round Table-Fort , 167, 168

Scurvy-grafs its fize, quality, 169


A fingular kind of Dulfe . The South of Skie
earlier in Grafs, Cattle, &c. than the North
part, 170
Air, Quillin Mountain called an Almanack.

Several Obfervations ofWinds, 171, 172


A prefage of Fair Weather. Tiles, Moon its
influence, 173, 174
The Diſeaſes known and not known in the Ifle
Skie. The Cures us'd by the Inhabitants, 175,
176 , 177-
The Alga Marina ufeful in Planting. Several
Cures for Difeafes, 178,179
Land Plants, their qualities, 180, 181 , 182

Cure
b 4
The CONTENTS.

Cure for Cough, or Hoarfnefs : Hectick ſtone.


Water-gruet how us'd, 183
A Smiths Cure for the faintneſs of the Spi-
rits, 184
Vulneraries. Purges. a Tumour to ripen.
Syroms to take away Blindness, how Car'd. Afbes
185, 186.
offea-ware preferve Cheefe,
Swelled Feet, Glifters how made. A difficulty
in eafing Nature at Sea, how removed, 187,
188
Sweat to procure, the various effects of Fishes on
feveral Conftitutions , 189, 190

A Native hath a faculty of erecting his Ears, a


StrangeWorm infome People, 192

Teaft how preferved many years, 191


Hemlock its Effect, many Worms how deftroyed,
193
The Inhabitants Complexion, Education, great,
Age, Beds, a larger dofe of Phyfick required here
than in the South. 194, 195 , 196
They are easily cured, an Emperick without Let-
ters, or Education , his Succefs, 197 , 198
The Natives fagacious, Mechanical, Lovers of
Mufick, 199

Geniusfor Poetry, diſadvantage and advantage


in the want ofConverfe. 200
Diet,Men eat more than Women,Oon, a Difh made

of Milk orWhey, 201 , 202 , 203


Graddan, a way of dreffing Corn, two yearly
Fairs, Cattle how fwim'd over the ferries, 204,
205, 206, 207, 208

The
The CONTENTS.

The Islanders affection to their Chief, 209


Their way offighting, 210
Divifion of Skie Ifle, Proprietors, Religion,
211
Boot Ifle, Mold, Corn, Rofa Town, Churches,
an ancient Native, he never can eafe Nature at
Sea, Language, Industry of the Natives, Fishing,
Proprietors, 214, 215, 216
Arran Ile, its Etymology, Mountains, Bays,
Earths, Stones, Rivers, Air, 217, 218
Caves, a Giant's Houfe, Stones on end, bones
found under them, two Stone Circles, 219,
220

A Sanctuary, Harbour, Forrest, Cattle, Ca-


ftle of Brodwick, 221, 222
Proprietor, Deputy, Mack Lewis, 223
Coroner, his Office, &c. Inhabitants, their
Complection, Habit, Language, Churches, Reli-
gion ; a Stone valued by the Inhabitant
&c, 224, 225, 226
Idefay Ile, a Fort, Produce, Chappels, 227
Gigay Ifle, its Church, the Bowing-ſtone,
Grofs, Bleeding how stenched, Religion, no
Burying on Friday, 227, 228, 229, 230
Jurah Ifle, its Etymology, Paps ofJurah, She-
riffdom, Proprietor, 231, 232
Wholfmness of the Ifle, Fountains, their Pro-
perties, longevity of the Natives, Cave, Har-
bours, 234,235
Direction for Sailers, Serpents, Cory-Vrekan
Gulf, 236,237
A
The CONTENTS.

A Veſſel eſcapes narrowly, Rats flee out of the


Ifle, 238
Religion, they do not Bury on Friday ; Com-
plection, Language, a Lead Mine, 239
The Ifle of Ila, Finlagan Ile, the Courts an-
ciently, and Seat ofJudicature, 240
Coronation Stone, &c. Forts, Caves, 241 , 242
Rivers, the Judge, how buried, 243
Churches, Air, Proprietor, a new found Iſle
called Green Ifle, 244, 245
The Ifle Colonfay, Church, Monaftery, Tombs,
Proprietor, Croffes, a Tour made round the
Church, Mold, Castle, Complection, Diet, Lan-
guage, 246, 247, 248
Religion, Women only obferve the Nativity of
the Blessed Virgin, Stone Chefts, 249
Mull Ifle, Air, Carmel Root Aromatick, it
prevents Drunkenneſs , Mountains , 250, 251
Bays, Forts, Toubir-Mory Harbour, the
Spanish Ship blown up here, 252, 253
Indian Beans how us'd, a Stone receives no
beat, 254
Jona Ifle, Tradition concerning Columbus,
parious Names ofthe Ifle, its length, it was aSe-
minary of Learning, Revenues. The Bishop of
the Ifles his Cathedral, he is Stil'd Epifcopus So-
dorenfis. Vicar of Jona was Parfon of Soroby,
and Dean of the Ifles. St. Maries Church de-

fcrib'd, 255, 256, 257


Bishops, Abbots, and others of diftinction
Buried within the Church ; Cloyster, Library, a
Burying Place for Murtherers, and Unbaptized
Perfons,
The CONTENTS.

Perfons, Columbus his Tomb, P. 258


St. Martin's Cross, Monks Dun its uſe. The
Black Stones on which Oaths were Sworn. They
are called the Great Seal, 259
Taylors Houfe. St. Ourans Church, Several
Perfons of Distinction Buried in it, their Sta-
tues, 260
The Burial Place of the Kings of Scotland,
Ireland, and Norway, as also of the Ancient
Families in the Ifles; of an English Bishop ; fe-

veral Infcriptions, Ronad's Church, wehrein the


Prioreffes are Buried, 261 , 262
Infcriptions, Nunnery, two Pavements , Mack-
lean's Cross, Columbus carried Eighteen Clergy-
men to Jona, variegated Stones, how us'd. A
Tradition ofthe Family ofPorters, 263
He ex-
Columbus his Life in divers Hands.
cluded Women from the Ifle, 264
Cattle excluded, only to be free from Women.
Beda his Account ofColumbus, 265, 266
The Ile of Tire-iy, Experiments to revive
Ale, Teft how preferv'd, 267, 268
Cows Milk produc'd by Sea-Ware ; many
Whales eat by the Natives. The Ile fubject to
the Ague. Some of the Inhabitants Bald, a
Cave, 269.
Forts, Circles ofStone, Inhabitants, their Re-
ligion, 270
The Ifle of Coll, it produces more Boys than
Girls and Tire-iy more Girls than Boys ; the
former feed on Oat Bread, the latter on Barley.
A Native Aged 89, dangerous Rocks, 278
The
-
The CONTENTS.
The Ile Rum , Mountainous and Heathy, its
length, Rivers,Fowl, Caves, Colour of the Rocks,
Deer, a fuperftitious obfervation. 273
Chappel, Proprietor, Language, Habit, 274
The Ile Muck, Fruitfulness, Cattle, Fowl,
Language Hawks. ibid.

The Ifle Cannay, Fruitful in Corn and Grass,


Plenty of Fish. A Loadstone in the North end.
The Ifle called Tarfin at Sea. Columbus's Church,
Religion, Habit, Proprietor, Anchorage. 275
The Isle of Egg, Rockie and Mountainous, a
Natural Fort, a Harbour, a large Cave, a Well
reputed Medicinal, the Effect it hath on a Stran
ger that lies at it in the Night time. The Natives
make a round about a heap of Stone. A heap of
Stone confecrated to the Virgin Mary. A Well
confecrated by a Popiſh Priest, much esteemed by
the Inhabitants . The Ceremony at the Confecra-
tion, 276, 277
St. Catharines Anniverſary, the Inhabitants
well proportion'd, Language, Habit, Religion,
Sr. Donnans Church and Anniverſary. A Se-
pulchral Urn, a Paffage under Ground. Pro-
teftants denyed access to the Burials in this
Ifle. 278, 279
St. Kilda or Hirta, Etimology of the Name,
its diſtance, in a Dutch Mapp it is called Kilder,
its length, Fountains, Cattle low of Stature,Sheep
have big Horns. 280
The Fort of the Volfcij, 281

A barren Tribe of Solan Geefe. Its Pudding


and its Effect. 282

Solan
The CONTENTS.

Solan Goofe egg Pectoral, their Nefts how made,


a RedCoat, Sun-dial, Arrow and Molucca Beans
found in their Nefts, the Fowl called Fulmar , its
fize, it prognofticates the Weft Wind, it feeds on
live Whale, eats Sorrel, it spouts out pure Oyl at
its Bill, properties of this Oyl, Number of the
Inhabitants, Language , Habit, they are all not
Subject to many Difeafes . The Men very strong,
Strangers infect the Natives with aCough.283,284
Diet of the Natives, it , effect a Leprofie.
They have a Genius for Poefy. They escape nar-
rowly by Clim bling. The Inge nuity of one among
them.
285
A fignificative Sign, understood at a distance
by all the Women. The Women labour the Ground
one Tear
286, 287
Theyfwear decifive Oaths by the Crucifix, and
it is of Brafs.The Impoftor his deceit, how he was
taken out ofthe Ifle ; his Confeffion and Repentance,
& c.
288
St. Kilda Man's notion of the City of Glaſgow,
and of every object he faw in it. Proprietor Stew-
ard, Product. 289, 290
Stewards Deputy, Omer and Cubit, no Silver or
Gold us'd here, they fight for Property, they live
contentedly, nice in Property.
291
Stout Rowers, no Compass, Pot Penny, Fire
Penny, the Fire Penny loft by the difcovery of
Chryftal.
292
They excell in Climbing. Two Ropes belonging
to the Common-Wealth. Great Purchase of Fowl,
Eggs, two thousand caught in a days time. Gins
wherein Fowl are caught. One of the Natives

eſcape
The CONTENTS.

efcape narrowly. They periſhin Climbing. La-


mentation Songs. 293, 294
Rock -fowl how a prefent, Horfes, Fewel, Ca-
valcade, fine Hawks, one of the Inhabitants,Tra-
vels to Glasgow, his strange Idea of every ob-
ject there. 295
A Child taken away by an Eagle and prefer-
ved. 299
An Account of the Second Sight, or faculty of
forefeeing things to come, by way of Vision ; feve-
ral Inftances of it narrated, 300
A Scheme of Trade, particularly of Fish-
ing, 373
The Language of the Inhabitants and their re-
moteness, no Obftacle to this defign. ibid.
They are capable of acquiring all Arts, many
go abroadfor want of Imployment. ibid.
The Ground capable to maintain double the Num-
ber of the Inhabitants, their Cattle die in the
Spring by ftarving. The Soil richer than in ſeve
ral otor parts. ibid.
The want of Skill in Agriculture a great loss.
Many Families how eafily maintain'd. The Illes
are proper for a Solitary Life, and living at a
very eafie rate. 338
The Ifles are Healthful. A Tradition of
Gold and Silver Mines. A Lead Mine in the
IЛle of Ila. 339
Thefituation ofthe Iſles advantageousfor Trade:
Two attempts made by King Charles the First,
andKingCharles the Second to advance the Fifhe-
ry of the western Ifles. 340

The
The CONTENTS.

The Dutch Fishery called a Golden Mine. The


Herring come to the Coast of the Iles in May
andJune : It continues in Jome parts tillJanuary,
allother Fish follow the Herring.
549
Orkney Isles their Situation, Origin, Longi
tude, Air.
350
More Rain than Snow in Winter, Sea Air
diffolves Snow, the Tides alter their Courſe, num-
ber of the Ifles. The main Land, Kirkwel Town,
the King and Bishops Pallace.
35x
St. Magnus's Church. The Town erected by the
Danes.
352
Scripture Stories painted. A lofty Infcription.
Harbours. Theleffer Ifles defcrib'd. The dange
rous Whirl-pools in time of a Calm. 354
Orkney Illes fruitful, ſeveral Mines. No
Trees here. A South Eaft Moon causeth high
Tide. Fin-land Men and their Boat. A Medi-
cinal Snail. Plenty of Shell-fifh. No Venomous
Creature in these Iles.
356
Herring Fishing neglected, Whales, Amphibia,
various Products. Fowl, Cleck geefe. 357
Picts the ancient Inhabitants, They are dif
poffefs'd by K. Kenneth the Second, Maguns K.
of Norway, by means of Donald Bane poffefs the
les.
358
Orkney a Title of Honour, the Queen Pro-
prietor.
359
Orkney a Stewartry, Udal right, different Mea-
fures, ancient State of the Church. 360 to 363
Ancient Monuments and Curiofities . 364 to 366
Superstition of the Inhabitants, their Longe-
vity,
367, 368
ERRATA.

Age 68.7.15 . for Vaniſh, readVanich, p. 25-


PAB1. 29. after has been, read quenched. p. 79 .
1.2. for two, read ten. p. 103. for Luchkrach, t.
Luchktach. p. 131. l. 19. r. Innerness p. 133 .
1. 25. for Rofay, r . Rafay. p. 134. l. 12. for Bar,
r. bor. p. 137. l. 25. r. Dunvegan. A p. 138.
1. 1. for Ila r. Ifa. Note, That by miſtake the
account of Dulfe in p, 177. is tranſpofed , to
p. 185. p. 2. ib. l. 4. r. if before they. p.263 ,
For Church-Men, r. Clergy-Men. p. 357.. IL.
for Serpier, r. Capier. p. 361. l. 14. for 17.
r. 18. The Cutts for the Shells neglected ,
could not be got ready in time.
hm
( 1)

Ꭺ .

DESCRIPTION

OF THE

Weltern Illands

OF

SCOTLAND, &c.

HE Iſland of Lewis is fo call'd from


Leog, which in the Irish Language fig-
T
nifies Water , lying on the furface of the
Ground ; which is very proper to this Ifland,

becauſe of the great number of Freſh- water


Lakes that abound in it. The Isle of Lewis
is by all Strangers and Seafaring- men , account-
ed the outmoſt Tract of Inlands lying to the
Northwest of Scotland. It is divided by feve
ra ! narrow Channels , and diſtinguiſh'd by feve-
ral Proprietors as well as by feveral Names :
by the Iflanders it is commonly call'd The Long
Iſland, being from South to North 100 Miles
in length,ard from East to Weft from 3 to 14
in breadth . It lyes in the Shire of Rofs, and
made part ofthe Dioceſs of the Iſles .
A THE
2 A Deſcription of the

THE Ifle of Lewis, properly and ſtrictly fo


call'd, is 36 Miles in length ; viz. from the
North -point of Bowling-head to the South - point
of Huffinefs in Harries : and in fome places it
is 10, and in others 12 Miles in breadth. The
Air is temperately cold and moiſt, and for a
corrective the Natives ufe a Dofe of Treftarig
or Ufquebaugh. This Ifland is for the moſt part
healthy, especially in the middle from South
to North. It is arable on the Weft fide, for
about fixteen Miles on the Coaft, it is like-

wife plain and arable in feveral places on the


Eaft : The Soil is generally fandy, excepting
the Heaths, which in fome places are black,
and in others a fine red Clay ; as appears by
the many Veffels made of it by their Women ;

fome for boiling Meat, and others for pre-


ferving their Ale, for which they are much bet-
ter than Barrels of Wood.

THIS land was reputed very fruitful in


Corn, until the lateYears of ſcarcity and bad
Seafons.TheCorn fown here is Barley,Oats and
Rye and they have alfo Flax and Hemp. The
beft increafe is commonly from the Ground
manur'd with Sea ware : They fatten it alſo
with Soot ; but it is obferv'd that the Bread
made ofCorn growing in the Ground fo fatten'd,
occafions the Jaundice to thofe that eat it.
They obferve like wife that Corn produced in
Ground which was never tilled before, occa-
fions feveral Diſorders in thofe who eat the
Bread
Weſtern Inlands of Scotland, &c. 3
Bread, or drink the Ale made of that Corn,
fuch as the Head-ach and Vomiting.

THE Natives are very induſtrious,and under-


go a great fatigue by digging the Ground with
Spades,and in moft places they turn theGround
fo digged upfide down, and cover it with Sea-
ware ; and in this manner there are about 500
People imploy'd daily for fome Months. This
way of labouring is by them call'd Timiy ;
and certainly produces a greater Increaſe than
Digging or Plowing otherwife. They have
little Harrows with wooden teeth in the firſt
and fecond rows, which breaks the Ground,
and in the third row they have rough Heath,
which ſmoothesit : This light Harrow is drawn
by a Man having a strong rope of Horſe-hair
acroſs his breaſt.

THEIR plenty of Corn was fuch,as difpos'd


the Natives to brew ſeveral forts of Liquors,as
common Ufquebaugh, another call'd Treftarig,
id eft Aqua vitæ , three times diftill'd, which is
ftrong and hot ; a third fort is four times di-
ftill'd , and this by the Natives is call'd Ufque-
baugh- baul, id eft Ufquebaugh, which at first
tafte affects all the Members ofthe Body : two
ſpoonfuls of this laft Liquor is a fufficient Doſe ;
and if any Man exceed this, it would preſently
ſtop his Breath, and endanger his Life. The
Treftarig and Ufquebaugh-baul, are both made
of Oats.
А з THERE
4 A Deſcription of the

THERE are ſeveral convenient Bays andHar-


bours in this Ifland . Loch Grace and Loch-tuo,
lying Norweft, are not to be reckon'd fuch ;
tho' Veffels are forc'd in there fometimes by
ftorm . Loch-Stonvay lyes on the Eaſt fide
in the middle of the Ifland, and is 18 Miles
directly South from the Norther-moſt Point
of the fame. It is a Harbour well known by

Seamen. There are feveral places for anchor-


ing about half a League on the South of this
Coast. About 7 Miles Southward, there is a
good Harbour, call'd the Birkin Ifles ; within
the Bay call'd Loch Colmkill, 3 Miles further
South lies Loch- Erifort, which hath an Anchor-.
ing place on the South and North ; about 5
Miles South lyes Loch- fea-fort, having two
viſible Rocks in the Entry, the beſt Harbour is
on the South fide.

ABOUT 24 Miles South- weft, lyes Loch-


Carlbay,a very capacious,tho, unknown Har-
bour, being never frequented by any Veſſels :
Tho' the Natives affure me that it is in all re-

fpects a convenient Harbour for Ships of the


First rate. The beſt entrance looks North and
North-west , but there is another from the
Weſt. On the South fide of the Ifland Ber-
nera, there are ſmall Iſlands without the en-
trance, which contribute much to the fecurity
of the Harbour, by breaking the Winds and
Seas that come from the great Ocean. Four
Miles to the South on this Coaft , is Loch- Rogue,
which runs in among the Mountains. All the
Coafts
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, & :. 5

Coafts and Bays above mention'd, do in fair


weather abound with Cod , Ling, Herring,
and all other forts of Fifhcs taken in the We-
ftern-lflands .

COD and Ling are of a very large fize, and


very plentiful near Loch-Carlvay ; but the
Whales very much interrupt the Fishing in
this place. There is one fort of Whale re-
markable for its Greatnefs , which the Fisher-
men diſtinguiſh from all others by the Name of
the Gallan-Whale ; because they never fee it
but at the Promontory of that Name : I was
told by the Natives , that about 15 years ago,
this great Whale overturn'd a Fifhers- boat
and devour'd three of the Crew ; the fourth
Man was fav'd by another Boat which happen'd
to be near, and faw this accident. There are
many Whales of different fizes, that frequent
the Herring Bays on the Eaft fide ; the Na-
tives imploy many Boats together in purſuit
of the Whales, chafing them up into the Bays,
till they wound one of them mortally , and
then it runs afhore, and they fay that all the
relt commonly follow the tract of its Blood,
and run themfelves alfo on fhore in like man-
ner ; by which means many of them are kill'd :
about five years ago there were fifty young
Whales kill'd in this manner, and most ofthem
eaten by the common People, who by expe
rience find them to be very nourishing Food ;
this I have been affur'd ofby ſeveral Perfons,but
A 3 parti-
6 A Deſcription of the

particularly by fome poor meagre people , who


became plump and lufty by this Food in the
fpace of a Week; they call it Sea- Pork, for fo
it fignifies in their Language : the bigger
Whales are more purgative than theſe leffer
ones, but the latter are better for Nouriſh-
ment.

THE Bays afford plenty of Shell- fish, as


Clams, Oyſters, Cockles, Mufles, Lympits ,
Wilks, Spout-fish ; ofwhich laft there is fuch
a prodigious quantity caft up out of the Sand
of Loch-tua, that their noifome Smell infects
the Air, and makes it very unhealthful to the
Inhabitants, who are not able to conſume them,
by eating or fatning their Ground with them 99
and this they fay happens moft commonly
once in ſeven years.

THE Bays and Coafts of this Iſlands afford


great quantity of ſmall Corral, not exceeding
6 Inches in length, and about the bigness of
a Gooſe's Quill : This abounds moſt in Loch-
Sea-fort, and there is Corraline likewife on
this Coaft.

THERE are a great many Fresh water Lakes


in this lfland, which abound with Trouts and
Eels : The common Bait us'd for catching
them is Earthworms, but a handful of parboil'd
Mufles thrown into the Water, attracts the
Trouts and Eels to the place ; the fittest
time
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland , &c. 7

time for catching them, is, when the Wind


blows from the South-weft : there are feveral
Rivers on each fide this Ifland which affords
Salmons, as alfo black Mufles, in which many
times Pearl is found.

THE Natives in the Village Barbas re-


tain an ancient Cuftom of fending a Man very
early to croſs Barvas River, every firſt day of
May, to prevent any Females croffing it first ;
for that they fay would hinder the Salmon
from coming into the River all the year round :
they pretend to have learn'd this from a foreign
Sailer, who was fhipwreck'd upon that Coaſt,
a long time ago. This obfervation they main-
tain to be true from Experience.

THERE are ſeveral Springs and Fountains of


curious Effects ; fuch as that at Loch - Carlvay,
that never whitens Linnen, which hath often
been try'd by the Inhabitants. The Well at
St. Cowften's Church, never boils any kind of
Meat, tho' it be kept on fire a whole day.
St. Andrew's Well in the Village Shadar, is
by the vulgar Natives made a Teſt to know
if a fick Perfon will die of the Distemper he
labours under : they fend one with a wooden
Diſh to bring fome ofthe water to the Patient,
and if the Diſh which is then laid foftly upon
the furface of the water turn round Sun- ways ,
they conclude that the Patient will recover of
that Distemper ; but if otherwiſe, that he will
die. A 4 THERE
8 A Deſcription of the

THERE are many Caves on the Coaſt of


this Ifland, in which great numbers of Otters
and Seals do lye ; there be alfo many Land and
Sea Fowls that build and hatch in them. The

Gave in Lech-Grace hath feveral pieces of a


hard fubftance in the bottom, which diſtil from
the top of it. There are feveral natural and
artificial Forts in the Coaſt of this Ifland
which are call'd Dun, from the Irish word Dain,
which fignifies a Fort : The natural Forts
here are Dun-owle, Dun- coradil, Dun-eiften.

THE Caſtle at Stonvay Village was de-


ftroy'd by the English Garrifon, kept there by
Oliver Cromwell. Some few, Miles to the North
of Brago, there is a Fort compos'd of large
Stone
1yordamStones,
s, it is of a round form, made taperwiſe
ep towards the top, and is three ftorics high :
Lin Sep.
the Wall is double, and hath feveral Doors

and Stairs, ſo that one may go round within


the Wall. There are fome Cairnes or Heaps
of Stones gather'd together on Heaths, and
fome of them at a great diftance from any
Ground that affords Stones : fuch as Cairn-
warp near Mournagh Hill , &c. Theſe artificial
Forts are likewife built upon Heaths at a con-
fiderable diſtance alfo from ftony Ground. The
Thrufbel Stone in the Parish of Barbas , is
above 20 foot high, and almoſt as much in
breadth. There are three erectedStones upon the
North fide of Loch-Carlvay about 12 foot
high each feveral other Stones are to be feen
here
LET
AA
DL NAM

BI
BL
IO
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 9

here in remote places,and fome of them flanding


on one end ; fome of the ignorant Vulgar fay,
they were Men by Inchantment turn'd into
Stones ; and others fay, they are Monuments
of Perfons ofNote kill'd in Battle.

THE moſt remarkable Stones for Number,


Bigneſs, and Order, that fell under my Obfer-
vation, were at the Village of Claſernifs ;
where there are 39 Stones ſet up 6 or 7 foot high
and two foot in breadth each ; they are plac'd
in form ofan Avenue, the breadth of which is
8 foot,and the diſtance between cach Stone fix :
and there is a Stone fet up in the entrance of this
Avenue; at the South end there is join'd to
this range of Stone a Circle of 12 Stones
of equal diſtance and height with the other
39. There is one fet up in the center of this
Circle, which is 13 foot high , and thap'd
like the Rudder of a fhip : without this
Circle there are 4 Stones ftanding to the Weft ,
at the fame diſtance with the Stones in the
Circle ; and there are 4 Stones fet up in the
fame manner at the South and Eaft fides. I
enquir'd of the Inhabitants what Tradition
they had from their Anceſtors concerning theſe
Stones and they told me, it was a place ' ap.
pointed for Worship in the the time of Hea-
thenifm, and that the Chief Druid or Pricft
ftood near the big Stone in the center, from
whence he addrefs'd himſelf to the People that
furrounded him .
UPON
10 A Deſcription of the
UPON the fame Coaſt alſo there is a Circle
of high Stones ftanding on one end, about a
quarter of a Mile's diftance from thoſe above-
mention'd.

THE Shore in Egginefs abounds with many


little fmooth Stones prettily variegated_with
all forts of Colours ; they are of a round Form,
which is probably occafion'd by the toffing of
the Sea, which in thofe parts is very violent.

THE Cattle produc'd here are Cows, Hor-


fes, Sheep, Goats, Hogs
Goats , Hogs theſe Cows are
little, but very fruitful, and their Beef very
fweet and tender : the Horfes are confiderably
lefs here, than in the oppofite continent, yet
they plow and harrow as well as bigger Hor-
fes, tho' in the fpring - time they have nothing
to feed upon but Sea ware. There are abun-
dance of Deer in the Chafe of Ofervaul, which
is 15 Miles in compaſs, confifting in Moun-
tains , and Valleys between them : this affords
good pafturage for the Deer, black Cattle, and
Sheep. This Ferreft, for fo they call it, is
furrounded with the Sea , except about one
Mile upon the Weft fide ; the Deer are forc'd
to feed on Sea- ware, when the Snow and Froſt
continue long , having no Wood to ſhelter in,
and ſo are expos'd to the rigor of the Seaſon.

I faw big Roots of Trees at the head of


Loch- Erifport, and there is about a hundred

young
Weſtern Islands ofScotland, &c. II

young Birch and Hazle Trees on the South .


weft fide of Loch- Stornvay, but there is no
more Wood in the Ifland. There's great vari-
ety of Land and Sea Fowls to be ſeen in this
and the leffer adjacent Iſlands.

THE Amphibia here are Seals, and Otters ;


the former are eaten by the Vulgar, who find
them to be as nouriſhing as Beef and Mutton.

THE Inhabitants of this Ifland are well pro-


Portion'd, free from any bodily imperfecti-
ons, and of a good Stature ; the colour of
their Hair is commonly a light- brown, or red ,
but few ofthem are black. They are a health-
ful and ſtrong bodicd People, feveral arrive to
a great Age ; Mr. Daniel Morifon, late Mi-
niſter of Barvas, one of my Acquaintance, dis
ed lately in his 86th. year.

THEY are generally of a fanguine Conftitu-


tion ; this place hath not been troubl'd with
Epidemical Diſeaſes , except the Small Pox,
which comes but feldom, and then it fweeps
away many young People. The Chin- cough
afflicts Children too : the Fever, Diarhea, Dy-
fenteria, and the falling down of the Uvula,
Fevers, Jaundies and Stiches, and the ordina-
ry Coughs proceeding from Cold, are the
Diſeaſes moſt prevalent here. The common
Çure us'd for removing Fevers and Plurifies,

is to let Blood plentifully. For curing the


Diarhea
1.2 A Description of the
Diarhea and Dyfenteria , they take fmall quan-
titics ofthe Kernel ofthe black Molocca Beans,
call'd by them Crofpunk ; and this being ground
into powder, and drunk in boil'd Milk, is by
daily experience found to be very effectual.
They likewife ufe a little Dofe of Treftarig
water with good fuccefs. When the Cough
affects them, they drink Brochan plentifully,
which is Oat meal and Water boil'd together ;
to which they fometimes add Butter : This
Drink us'd at going to Bed, difpofeth one to
fleep and fweat, and is very Diuretick, if it
hath no Salt in it. They ufe alfo the Roots of
Nettles, and the Roots ofReeds boil'd in Wa-
per, and add Yeaft to it, which provokes it to
ferment, and this they find alfo beneficial for
the Cough When the Uvula falls down ,
they ordinarily cut it , in this manner : They
take a long Quill, and putting a Horfe-hair
double into it, make a noofe at the end of the
Quill, and putting it about the lower end of
the Uvula, they cut off from the Uvula all
that's below the Hair with a pair of Sciffers,and
then the Patient (wallows a little Bread and
Cheefe, which cures him : This Operation is
not attended with the leaft inconvenience, and
cures the Diftemper fo that it never returns.
They cure Green-wounds with Oyntment
made ofGolden- rod , All-heal, and freſh But-
ter. The Jaundies they cure two ways ; the
firft is by laying the Patient on his Face, and
pretending to look upon his Back- bones, they
preſently
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 13
prefently pour a Pail-full of cold Water on his
bare Back ; and this proves fucceſsful : the fe-
cond Cure they perform by taking the Tongs,
and making them red- hot in the Fire, then
pulling offthe Clothes from the Patient's Back,
he who holds theTongs, and gently touches the
Patient on the Vertebre upwards of the Back,
which makes him furioufly run out of doors,
ftill fuppofing the hot Iron is on his Back,
till the Pain be abated, which happens very
fpeedily, and the Patient recovers foon after.
Donald-Chuan, in a Village near Bragir,
in the Pariſh of Barvas, had by accident cut
his Toe at the change of the Moon, and it
bleeds a freſh drop at every change ofthe
Moon ever fince.

ANNA, Daughter to George, in the Village


of Melboft, in the Parish of Ey, having been
with Child, and the ordinary time of her De-
livery being expir'd, the Child made its paf
fage by the Fundament for fome years, com-
ing away Bone after Bone. She liv'd feveral
years after this, but never had any more Chil-
dren : Some of the Natives both of the Ifland
of Lewis and Harries, who convers'd with
her at the time, when this extraordinary thing
happen'd, gave me this Account .

THE Natives are generally ingenious and


quick of Apprehenfion , they have a Mechani-
cal Genius, and feveral of both Sexes have a
Gift
A Deſcription a
14 of the

Gift of Poefy, and are able to form a Satyr or


Panegyrick ex tempore, without the affiftance
of any ftronger Liquor than Water to raiſe
their Fancy. They are great lovers of Mufick;
and when I was there they gave an account
of 18 Men who could play on the Violin
pretty well, without being taught they are
ftill very hofpitable, but the late years of
Scarcity brought them very low, and many of
the poor People have died by Famine . The
Inhabitants are very dextrous in the Exerciſes
of Swiming, Archery, Vaulting or Leaping,
and are very ſtout and able Seamen ; they will
tug at the Oar all day long upon Bread and
Water, and a fnufh of Tobacco.

Of the Inferiour adjacent Iflands.

ITHOUT the Mouth of Loch-Carlvay

,the finall Ifland Gatve; it is a


Wlyes
high Rock about half a Mile in compaſs and
fit only for Pafturage.Not far from this lyes the
Iland Berinfay, which is a quarter of a
Mile in compaſs, naturally a ftrong Fort , and
formerly us'd as fuch, being almoft inac-
ceffible.
THE Iſland Fladda, whichis of ſmall com-
pafs, lyes betwen Berinfay and the main Land.
Within
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c.

Within theſe lyes the Ifland call'd Bernera


Minor, two Miles in length and fruitful in
Corn and Graſs ; within this Ifland, in the mid-
dle of Loch Carlvay, lyes the Ifland Bernera
Major, being 4 Miles in length, and as much
in breadth ; it is fruitful alfo in Corn and Graſs,
and hath 4 Villages. Alexander Mack- Lenan,
who lives in Bernera Major, told me , that
fome years ago, a very extraordinary Ebb hap
pen'd there, exceeding any that had been feen
before or fince ; it happen'd about the Vernal
Equinox, the Sea retir'd fo far as to diſcover
a Stone-wall, the length of it being about 40
yards, and in fome parts about 5,6 or 7 foot
high ; they fuppofe much more of it to be
under Water : it lyes oppofite to the weft fide
of Lewis, to which it adjoins. He fays that
it is regularly built, and without all doubt
the effect of Human Induſtry ; the Natives
had no Tradition about this piece of Work,
fo that I can form no other Conjecture about
it, but that it has probably been erected for a
defence againſt the Sea, or for the ufe of Fisher-
men, but came in time to be overflow'd . Near
to both Berneras lyes the fmall Iſland of

Kialilay, Cavay, Carvay, and Gzenim.

NEAR to the North-weft Promontory of


Carlvay Bay, call'd Galan-head, are the little
Inlands of Pabbay, Shirem, waray , Mu-
ya, the Great and Leffer. To the North-
weft ofGallan head, and within 6 Leagues of
it
16 A Deſcription of the

it, lyes the Flannan-Iſlands, which the Sea-


men call North-hunters ; they are but ſmall
Iflands,and fixin number,and maintain about 70

Sheep yearly : The Inhabitants ofthe adjacent


Lands of the Lewis, having a right to theſe
Iſlands , and viſit them • once every Summer,
and there make a great purchaſe ofFowls, Eggs ,
Down, Feathers , and Quills : when they go
to Sea, they have their Boat well mann'd, and
make towards the Iflands with an Eaft Wind ;
but ifbefore, or at the Landing, the Wind turn
Weſterly, they hoift up Sail, and ſteer direct-
ly home again. If any of their Crew is a
Novice, and not vers'd in the Cuſtoms of the
place, he must be inftructed perfectly in all
the Punctilio's obferv'd here, before Landing ;
and to prevent Inconveniences that they think,
may enfue upon the transgreffion of the leaft
Nicety obferv'd here, every Novice is always
join'd with another that can inftruct him, all
the time of their Fowling ; fo all the Boat's
Crew are match'd in this manner : after their
Landing they faften the Boat to the fides of a
Rock, and then fix a wooden Ladder, by lay-
ing a Stone at the foot of it, to prevent its
falling into the Sea ; and when they are got
up into the Ifland, all of them uncover their
Heads, and make a turn Sun-ways round,
thanking God for their Safety. The first In-
junction giv'n after Landing, is, not to eaſe
Nature in that place where the Boat lyes, for
that they reckon a Crime of the higheſt nature,
and
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 17

and of dangerous Confequence to all their


Crew ; for they have a great regard to that
very piece ofthe Rock upon which they firft
fet their Feet, after eſcaping the danger of the
Ocean.

The biggeſt of theſe Iſlands is call'd Jland-


Moze, it has the ruins of a Chappel dedicated
to St. Flannan, from whom the land derives
its Name ; when they are come within about
zo paces ofthe Altar, they all ſtrip themſelves
of their upper Garments at once, and their
upper Clothes being laid upon a Stone, which
ftands there on purpoſe for that ule , all the
Grew pray three times before they begin
Fowling the firſt day they ſay the first Pray-
er, advancing towards the Chappel upon their
Knees ; the Second Prayer is faid as they go
round the Chappel ; the Third is faid hard-by
or at the Chappel, and this is their Morning
Service. Their Vefpers are perform'd with
the like number of Prayers. Another Rule is,
That it is abfolutely unlawful to kill a Fowl
with a Stone, for that they reckon a great Bar-
barity,and directly contrary to ancient Cuftom .

It is alſo unlawful to kill a Fowl before

they afcend by the Ladder. It is abfolutely


unlawful to call the Iſland of St. Kilda (which
lyes thirty Leagues Southward) by its proper
Irish Name Dirt, but only the High Country.
They must not fo much as once name the
B Iflands
n
18 A Defcriptio of the

Iſlands in which they are Fowling, by the


ordinary Name Flannan, but only the Coun-
try. There are feveral other things that muſt
not be call'd by their common Names : E. g·
wisk , which in the Language of the Natives
fignifies Water , they call burn : a Rock,
which in their Language is Creg, muft here
be call'd Cruey, i. e . hard : Shore in their
Language expreft by Claddach, muſt here be
call'd ah, i. e. a Cave : Sower,, in their
Language is expreft Go2t, but muſt here be
call'd Gaire, i. e. Sharp : Slippery, which is
expreft Bog, muſt be call'd Soft : and ſeveral
other things to this purpofe. They account it
alfo unlawful to kill a Fowl after Evening
Prayers. There is an ancient Custom , by
which the Crew is oblig'd not to carry home
any Sheep-fuet, let them kill never fo many
Sheep in theſe Inlands. One of their principal
Cuftoms is not to fteal or eat any thing un-
known to their Partner, elfe the Tranfgreffor
( they fay) will certainly vomit it up, which
they reckon as a juft Judgment. When they
have loaded their Boat fufficiently with Sheep,
Fowls , Eggs , Down, Fish, &c. they make
the best of their way homeward. It's obferv
cd of the Sheep of thefe Iflands that they are
exceeding fat, and have long Horns.

I had this fuperflitious Account not only


from feveral of the Natives of the Lewis, but
likewife from two who had been in the Flan-
nan
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland , &c. 19

nan Iſlands the preceding Year. I ask'd one


of them if he pray'd at home as often, and as
fervently as he did when in the Flannan Iſlands ;
and he plainly confefs'd to me that he did not :
adding further, that theſe remote Iflands were
places of inherent Sanctity ; and that there
was none ever yet landed in them but found

himſelf more diſpos'd to Devotion there, than


any where elfe. The lfland of Pigmies, or as
the Natives call it, The Island of Little Men,
is but of fmall Extent. There has been many
fmall Bones dug out of the Ground here, re-
fembling thoſe of Human kind more than any
other. This gave ground to a Tradition
which the Natives have of a very Low-ftatur'd
People living once here, call'd Lusbirdan,
i. e. Pigmies.

THE Iſland Rona, is reckond about 20


Leagues from the North- eaft Point of Nefs in
Lewis, and counted but a Mile in length and
about half a Mile in breadth ; it hath a Hill
in the Weſt part, and is only viſible from the
Lewis in a fair Summers-day. I had an Ac-
count of this little Ifland, and the Cuftom
of it from feveral Natives of Lewis , who
had been upon the place ; but more particu-
larly from Mr. Daniel Morifon , Minister of
Barvas, after his return from Rona Iland ,
which then belong'd to him , as part of his
Gleib. Upon my Landing ( fays he ) the Na-
tives receiv'd me very affectionately ; and ad-
B 21 arefs'd
20 A Deſcription of the
drefs'd me with their ufual Salutation to a
Stranger, God fave you, Pilgrim, you are hearti
ly welcome here for we have had repeated Ap-
paritions of your Perfon among us , after the

manner of the fecond Sight, And we heartily


congratulate your Arrival in this our remote
Country. One of the Natives would needs
exprefs his high eſteem for my Perſon, by
making a turn round about me Sun- ways, and
at the fame time Bleffing mc, and wishing me
all happiness ; but I bid him let alone that
piece of Homage, telling him I was fenfible of
his good meaning towards me : but this poor
Man was not a little diſappointed, as were al-
fo his Neighbours ; for they doubted not but
this ancient Ceremony would have been very
acceptable to me ; and one of them told me,
That this was a thing due to my Character
from them, as to their Chiefand Patron, and
could not, nor wou'd not fail to perform it.
They conducted me to the Little Village,
where they dwell, and in the way thither there
were three Inclofures ; and as I entred each of
thefe , the Inhabitants feverally faluted me,
taking me bythe Hand , and faying, Traveller,
you are welcome here. They went along with
me to the Houfe that they had affign'd for my
Lodging ; where there was a bundle of Straw
laid on the Floor, for a Seat to me to fit upon ;
After a little time was spent in general Dif-
courfe , the Inhabitants retir'd to their re-

fpective dwelling Houfcs ; and in this interval,
they
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 21

they kill'd each Man a Sheep, being in al


Five, anſwerable to the nnmber of their Fami-
lies. The Skins ofthe Sheep were entire, and
flea'd offſo, from the Neck to the Tail, that
they were inform like aSack : ThefeSkins being
flea'd off after this manner, were by the Inhabi-
tants inftantly fill'd with Barley- mcal ; and this
they gave me by way of a Preſent, one of their
number acted as Speaker for the reft, faying,
Traveller we are very fenfible ofthe Favour you
have done us in coming fo far with a Defign to
inſtruct us in our way to Happiness, and at the
fame time to venture your felf on the great Ocean:
Pray, be pleas'd to accept of this fmall Prefent ,
which we humbly offer as an expression of our fin-
cere Love to you. This I accepted tho in a
very coarſe drefs, but it was given with fuch an
Air of Hofpitality and Good- will , as deferv'd
Thanks they prefented my Man alfo with
fome pecks of Meal, as being likewife a Tra-
veller ; the Boats- Crew having been in Rona be-
fore , were not reckon❜d Strangers , and there-
fore there was no Prefent given them, but
their daily Maintenance.

THERE is a Chappel here dedicated to St.


Ronan, fenc'd with a Stone Wall round it ;
and they take care to keep it neat and clean ,
and fweep it every day. There is an Altar in
it on which there lies a big Plank of Wood
about ten foot in length, every foot has a hole
in it, and in every hole a Stone, to which the
B 3 Natives
A Defcription of the
Natives alcribe feveral Virtues ; one of them
is fingular, as they fay, for promoting ſpeedy
delivery to a Woman in Travel.

THEY repeat the Lord's Prayer , Creed


and Ten Commandments in the Chappel every
Sunday Morning. They have Cows , Sheep ,
Barley and Oats, and live a harmleſs Life, be
ing perfectly ignorant of most of thoſe Vices
that abound in the World : They know no-
thing of Money or Gold, having no occafion
for either They neither fell nor buy, but
only barter for fuch little things as they want :
they covet no Wealth, being fully content and
fatisfy'd with Food and Raiment ; tho ' at the
fame time they are very precife in the matter
of Property among themfelves ; for none of
them will by any means allow his Neighbour
to fish within his Property ; and every one
muft exactly obferve not to make any in-
croachment on his Neighbour. They have an
agreeable and hospitable Temper for all Stran-
gers : they concern not themfelves about the
rest of Mankind, except the inhabitants in the
North part of Lewis. They take their Sir-
name from the colour of the Sky, Rain-bow ,
and Clouds. There are only five Families in
this fmall Iſland , and every Tennant hath his
Dwelling-houfe, a Barn, a Houfe where their
best Effects are preferv'd, a Houſe for their
Cattle, and a Perch on each fide of the Door
to keep off the Rain or Snow. Their Houſes
are
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 23
are built with Stone, and thatched with Straw,
which is kept down with Ropes of the fame,
pois'd with Stones. They wear the fame Ha
bit with thoſe in Lewis , and fpeak , only Irift .
When any of them comes to the Lewis , which
is feldom, they are aftoniſhed to fee fo many
People. They much admire Grey- hounds,
and love to have them in their company. They
are mightily pleas'd at the fight of Hories ,
and one of them obſerving a Horfe to neigh ,
ask'd ifthat Horfe laugh'd at him a Boy
from Rona perceiving a Colt run towards him,
was fo much frighted at it that he jump'd in-
to a bush of Nettles, where his whole Skin bc-
came full of Bliſters.

ANOTHER of the Natives of Rona,


having had the opportunity of travelling as
far as Coul, in the Shire of Rofs , which is the
Seat of Sr. Alexander Mac- kenzie, every thing

he faw there was furprizing to him, and when


he heard the noiſe of thoſe who walk'd in the
Rooms above him , he prefently fell to the
Ground, thinking thereby to fave his Life,
for he fuppos d that the Houfe was coming
down over his head. When Mr. Morifon the
Miniſter was in Rona, two of the Natives
Courted a Maid with intention to marry her

and being married to one of them afterwards ,


the other was not a little difappointed be-
cauſe there was no other match for him in
this Ifland. The Wind blowing fair, Mr.
B 4 bcrifon
24 A Defcription of the
Morifon failed directly for Lewis, but after
hours failing was forced back to Rona by a
contrary Wind, and at his Landing the poor
Man that had loft his Sweet- heart was over-
joy'd, and expreffed himſelfin theſe words ;
I blefs God and Ronan that you are return'd
again, for I hope you will now make me hap-
py, and give me a - right to enjoy the Woman
every other Year by turns, that fo we both
may have Iffue by her ; Mr. Morifon could not
refrain from fmiling at this unexpected request,
chid the poor Man for his unreaſonable de-
mand , and defir'd him to have patience for a
Year longer, and he would fend him a Wife
from Lewis ; but this did not ease the poor
Man who was tormented with the thoughts
of dying without Iffue.

ANOTHER who wanted a Wife, and hav-


ing got a Shilling from a Seaman that happen'd
to land there, went and gave this Shilling to
Mr. Morifen to purchaſe him a Wife in the
Lewis, and fend her to him, for he was told
that this piece of Money was a thing of ex-
traordinary Value, and his defire was gratified
the enfuing Year.

ABOUT 14 Years ago a farm of Rats,


but none knows how, came into Rona, and
in a fhort time eat up all the Corn in the
Ifland. In a few Months after fome Seamen
Landed there, who Robbed the poor People
of
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 25
of their Bull. Theſe misfortunes and the
want of fupply from Lewis for the ſpace of a
Year, occafion'd the death of all that Ancient
1
Race of People. The Steward of St. Kilda
being by a Storm driven in there, told me
that he found a Woman with her Child on

her Breaſt, both lying dead at the ſide of a


Rock Some Years after, the Miniſter ( to
whom the Iſland belongeth ) fent anew Co-
lony to this Ifland , with fuitable Supplies.
The following Year a Boat was ſent to them
with fome more fupplies and Orders to re-
ceive the Rents, but the Boat being loft as it is
ſuppoſed, I can give no further account ofthis
late Plantation.

THE Inhabitants of this little Iſland fay


that the Cuckow is never feen or heard here ;
but after the Death of the Earl of Seaforth,
or the Miniſter.

The Rock Soulisker, lyeth 4 Leagues


to the Eaſt of Rona, it is a quarter of a Mile
in Circumference , and abounds with great
numbers of Sea- Fowl, fuch as, Solan Geefe ,
Guillamote , Coulter- Neb , Puffin , and feve-
ral other forts. The Fowl called the Colk
is found here, it is lefs then a Gooſe, all
covered with Down, and when it hatches it
cafts its Feathers, which are of divers Colours ;
It has a Tafft on it's head reſembling that of a
Peacock, and a Train longer than that of a
Houfe
26 A Deſcription of the
Houfe-Cock ; but the Hen has not fo much Or-
nament and Beauty.

THE Iſland Siant, Or, as the Natives


call it Ifland-More, lyes to the Eaſt of Uſhinefs,
in Lewis about a League. There are Three
fmall Iſlands here, the Two Southern Iſlands
are feperated only by Spring- tides , and are
Two Miles in Circumference. Iland- More
hath a Chappel in it Dedicated to the Vir-
gin Mary , and is fruitful in Corn and Grafs ;
The Inland joyning to it on the Weft is only
for Pafturage, I faw a couple of Eagles here.The
Natives told me that theſe Eagles would never
fuffer any of their kind to live there but them-
felves, and that they drove away their Young-
ones as foon as they were able to fly, and they
told me likewife that thofe Eagles are fo care-
ful ofthe place of their abode, that they ne-
ver yet killed any Sheep or Lamb in the
Ifland, tho' the Bones of Lambs , of Fawns
and Wild-Fowls are frequently found in and
about their Nefts, fo that they make their
Purchaſe in the oppofite Iflands ; the neareſt
of which is a League diftant. This Ifland is
very strong and inacceffible, fave on one fide
where the Afcent is narrow, and fomewhat re-
fembling a Stair, but a great deal more high
and fteep, notwithſtanding which the Cows
pafs and repaſs by it fafely, tho' one would
think it uncafie for a Man to climb. About a
Musket fhot further North lies the biggeſt of
the
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, & . 27

the Iſlands called More, being two Miles in


Circumference : It is fruitful in Corn and Pa-
fturage, the Cows here are much fatter than
any I ſaw in the Iſland of Lewis. There is a
blew Stone in the furface of the Ground here,
moiſt while it lies there, but when dry, it be
comes very hard, it is capable of any Impreffi-
on, and I have feen a Sett of Table- Men

made of this Stone prettily Carved with diffe-


rent Figures. There is a Promontory in the
North-end of the Ifland of Lewis called Earopy-
Point, which is fuppofed to be the furtheft to
North-weft ofany part in Europe.

THESE Iſlands are divided into Two Pa-


riſhes, one called Barvas, and the other Ey
or T, both which are Parfonages, and each of
them having a Minifter. The Names ofthe
Churches in Lewis Ifles, and the Saints to
whom they were Dedicated are St. Columkil,
in the land of that name ; St. Pharaer in
Baernefs ; St. Lennan in Sternvay, St. Col-
lum in Ey,; St. Cutchou in Garbou ; St. Au-
le in Greate ; St. Michael in Tollofta ; St.
Collum in Garieu ; St. Ronan in Corobie ; St.
Thomas in Daboft ; St. Peter in Shanabolt ;
St. Clement in Dell ; Holy Cross Church in
Balan , St. Brigit in Barove ; St. Peter in
Shiadir ; St. Mary in Barvas ; St. John-
Baptift in Bragar ; St. Kiaran in Lianis
Shadir: St. Michael in Kirbig ; St. Macrel
in Birkiboft ; St. Dondan in LittleBerneray ;
St.
28 A Defcription of the
St. Michael in the fame Ifland ; St. Peter in
Pabbay Inland ; St. Chriftophers Chappel in
ge ; and Stonbay Church , all theſe
Churches and Chappels were before the Refor-
mation Sanctuaries ; and if a Man had com-
mitted Murder, he was then fecure and fafe
when once within their Precincts.

THEY were in greater Veneration in thoſe


days than now it was the conftant Practice of
the Natives to kneel at firſt fight of the Church,
tho' at a great diſtance from 'em. and then they
faid their Pater nofter. John Morison ofBragir,
told me that when he was a Boy, and going to
the Church of St. Mulvay, he obferv'd the
Natives to kneel and repeat the Pater nofter at
four Miles diftant from the Church. The In-
habitants of this fland had an ancient Cuſtom
to facrifice to aSea God call'd Shony at Hallow-
tide, in the manner following: The Inhabitants
round the Iſland came to the Church of St.
Mulvay , having cach Man his Provifion along
with him ; every Family furnish'd a Peck of
Malt, and this was brew'd into Ale ; one of
their number was pickt out to wade into the
Sea up to the middle, and carrying a Cup of
Ale in his Hand, ſtanding ſtill in that poſture,
cry'd out with a loud Voice faying. Shony,
I give you this Cup of Ale, hoping that you'll be
fo kind as tofendus plenty of Sea-ware, for inrich-
ing our Ground the enfuing Tear ; and fo threw
the Cup of Ale into the Sea. This was per-
form'd
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 29
form'd in the Night-time ; at his return to
Land , they all went to Church, where there
was a Candle burning upon the Altar ; and
then ſtanding filent for a little time, one of them
gave a Signal, at which the Candle was put
out, and immediately all of them went to the
Fields , where they fell a drinking their Ale, and
ſpent the remainder of the Night in Dancing,
and Singing, &c.

THE next Morning they all return'd home,


being well fatisfy'd that they had punctually ob-
ferv'd this Solemn Anniverſary, which they be-
liev'd to be a powerful means to procure a plenti-
ful Crop. Mr. Daniel, and Mr. Kenneth Mori-
fon, Minifters in Lewis, told me they spent
feveral Years, before they could perfwade the
vulgar Natives to abandon this ridiculous piece
of Superftition, which is quite abolish'd for
thefe 32 Years paſt.

THE Inhabitants are all Proteftants , except


one Family, who are Roman Catholicks. I
was told, that about 14 Years ago, three or
four Fiſhermen, who then forfook the Proteftant
Communion , and imbrac'd the Romish Faith ,
having the opportunity of a Popish Priest on
the place, they apply'd themselves to him for
fome ofthe Holy-water ; it being ufual for the
Prieſts to ſprinkle it into theBays , as an infallible
means to procure plenty of Herring, as alſo to
bring them into thofe Nets that are befprinkled
with
30 A Deſcription of the

with it : Theſe Fiſhers accordingly having got


the Water, poured it upon their Nets before
they drop'd them into the Sea : They likewife
turn'd the infide of their Coats outwards, after
which they ſet their Nets in the Evening at the
ufual hour. The Proteftant Fishers who us'd no
other means than throwing their Nets into the
Sea, at the fame time were very unconcern'd ;
but the Papiſts being impatient and full of ex-
pectation, got next Morning be times to draw
their Nets, and being come to the place, they
foon perceiv'd that all their Nets were loft, but
the Proteftants found their Nets fafe, and full
of Herring ; which was no fmall mortification
to the Prieſt and his Profelytes ,and expos'd them
to the derifion of their Neighbours.

THE Proteftant Natives obferve the Feſtivals


of Christmas, Good- Friday, Eafter, and Michael-
mas; upon this laft they have an Anniverſary Ca-
valcade, and then both Sexes ride on Horſe-back.

THERE is a Village call'd Storn- Bay, at the


head of the Bay of that Name ; it confiſts of
about fixty Families : there are fome Houſes of
entertainment in it ; as alfo a Church, and a
School, in which Latin and English are taught.
The Steward of the Lewis hath his Refidence in

this Village. The Lewis which was poffefs'd by


Mick-Leod of Lewis, for feveral Centuries, is
fince the Reign of King James the Sixth, be-
comethe Property of the Earl of Seafort, who
ftill enjoys it. The
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c.

The Iſle of HARRIES.

HE Harries being feperated from Lewisis


18 Miles, from the Hufhinefs on the
T
Weft Ocean ? to Loch-Seafort in the
Eaft, from this bounding to the Point of
Strond in the South of Harries, it is 24 Miles,
and in fome places , 4, 5 , and 6 Miles in
breadth : The Soil is almoft the fame with
that of Lewis, and it produces the fame forts
ofCorn, but a greater increaſe.

THE Air is temperately Cold, and the Na-


tives endeavour to qualify it by taking a Dofe
of Aquavitæ , or Brandy, for they brew no
fuch Liquours as Treftarig, or Ufquebaugh-baul.
The Eaſtern Coaſt of Harries is generally
Rocky, and Mountainous, covered with Grafs,
and Heath. The Weft-fide is for the moſt
part Arable on the Sea- Coaft ; fome parts of
the Hills on the Eaft fide, are naked with-
out Earth, The Soil being dry and Sandy, is
Fruitful when Manur'd with Sea-ware. The
Graſs on the Weft fide is moft Clover and
Dafie, which in the Summer yields a moſt fra-
grant ſmell. Next to Loch- Seafort, which for
fome Miles divides the Lewis from Harries,
is the notable Harbour within the Ifland, by
Sea-
32 A Deſcription of the

Sea-faring Men call'd Glaſs, and by the Natives


Scalpa ; it is a Mile and an half long from
South to North, and a Mile in breadth. There
is an Entrance on the South and North ends of
the Ifle, and ſeveral good Harbours in each,
well known to the generality of Seamen.
Within the Ifle is Loch-Tarbat , running 4
Miles Weft ; it hath ſeveral ſmall Ifles, and is
fometimes frequented by Herring. Without
the Loch there is plenty of Cod, Ling, and
large Eels.

ABOUT half a League further on the fame


Coaft, lies Loch- Stokness , which is about a
Mile in length ; there is a freſh-water Lake at
the entrance ofthe Ifland, which affords Oyſt-
ers, and ſeveral forts of Fiſh, the Sea having
accefs to it at Spring- tides.

ABOUT a League and a half farther South,


is Loch-Finisbay, an excellent tho' unknown
Harbour ; the Land lies low, and hides it from
the fight of the Sea-faring Men, till they come
very near the Coaft. There are befides this
Harbour, many Creeks on this fide, for Barks
and lefler Boats.

FRESH -Water Lakes abound in this Iſland,


and are well ftor'd with Trout, Eels , and Sal-
mon ; each Lake has a River runningfrom it to
the Sea, from whence the Salmon comes, about
the beginning of May, and fooner if the Seaſon
be
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 3.3

be warm. The beſt time for Angling for Sal


mon $ and Trout is when a warm South-weft
Wind blows. They ufe Earth -Worms com-
monly for Bait, but Cockles attract the Sal-
mon better than any other.

THERE is variety of excellent Springs


iffuing from all the Mountains of this iſland,
but the Wells on the Plains near the Sea are
not good. There is one remarkable Fountain,
lately diſcovered near Marvag houfes, on the
Eaſtern Coaſt, and has a large Stone by it,
which is fufficient to direct a Stranger to it.
The Natives find by experience that it is very
effectual for reftoring loft Appetite, all that
drink ofit become very foon hungry, though
they have eat plentifully but an Hour before ;
the truth of this was confirmed to me by thoſe
that were perfectly well, and alſo by thoſe
that were Infirm, for it had the fame effect on
both.

THERE is a Well in the Heath, a Mile to

the Eaft from the Village Bobe, the Natives


fay that they find it Efficacious againſt Col-
licks, Stiches, and Gravel.

THERE are feveral Caves in theMountains,


and on each fide the Coaft ; the largeſt and
beſt fortify'd by Nature, is that in the Hill
Ulweal, in the middle of a high Rock , the
Paffage leading to it is fo narrow, that one
C. only
34 A Defcription of the

only can enter at a time : This advantage


renders it fecure from any attempt, for one
fingle Man is able to keep off a Thouſand, if
he have but a Staff in his Hand, fince with the
leaft touch of it he may W throw the ſtrongeſt
Man down the Rock. The Cave is capacious

enough for 50 Men to lodge in ; it hath two


Wells in it, one of which is excluded from
Dogs ; for they fay that if a Dog do but taſt
of the Water, the Well preſently dryeth up ;
and for this reaſon , all fuch as have occafion
to Lodge there, take care to tye their Dogs
that they may not have access to the Water ;
the other Well is called the Dogs Well, and is
only drunk by them.

THERE are feveral ancient Forts erected


here, which the Natives fay, were built by
the Danes ; they are of a round form, and
have very thick Walls , and a paffage in ' em by
which one can go round the Fort. Some of
the Stones that compofe ' em are very large,
thefe Forts are named after the Villages in
which they are built, as that in Borve is call'd
Down- Borve, &c. They are built at conveni-
ent diſtances on each fide the Coaſt, and there
is a Fort built in every one of the leffer Iſles.

THERE are feveral Stones here erected on


one end, one of which is in the Village of
Borve, about 7 Foot high. There is another
Stone ofthe fame hight to be feen in the op-
pofite
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 35

pofite Iſle of Farantay. There are feveral


Heaps of Stones, commonly called Karnes, on
the tops of Hills, and rifing Grounds on the
the Coaſt upon which they us'd to burn Heath,
as a Signal of an approaching Enemy. There
was always a Sentinel at each Karne to obſerve
the Sea coaft , the Steward ofthe Ifle made
frequent Rounds to take notice of the Senti-
nels, and if he found any of them a fleep, he
ftrip'd them of their Cloths, and deferred their
Perfonal Punishments to the Proprietor ofthe
Place. This Ifle produceth the fame kind of
Cattle, Sheep, and Goats that are in the Lew-
is ; the Natives gave me an account that a
couple of Goats did grow wild on the Hills
and after they had increaſed ,they were obferv'd
to bring forth their Young twice a Year.

THERE are abundance of Deer , in the


Hills and Mountains here, commonly called
the Forreft which is 18 Miles in length from
the number
of Deer computed
Eaft to
to be in this place, is at leaſt 2000 ; and
there is none permitted to Hunt there without
a Licence from the Steward to the Forreſter.
There is a particular Mountain, and above a
Mile of Ground furrounding it, to which no
.
Man hath acceſs to Hunt , this place being re-
ferved for Mack-leod himself, who when he is
difpos'd to Hunt, is fure to find Game enough
there. 0475

C 1 BOTH
36 A Defcription of the

BOTH Hills and Valleys in the Forreſt are


well provided with plenty of good Graſs mix'd
with Heath , which is all the fhelter theſe
Deer have during the Winter and Spring ; there
is not a fhrub of Wood to be ſeen in all the
Forreſt, and when a Storm comes , the Deer
betake themſelves to the Sea- Coaft, where
they feed upon the Alga Marina, or Sea-ware.

#
THE Mertrick , a four-footed Creature
about the fize of a big Cat, is pretty nume
rous in this lfle ; they have a fine Skin, which
is ſmooth as any Fur, and of a brown Colour ;
they fay that the Ding of this Animal yields
a fcent like Musk.

THE Amphibia, here are Otters and Seals


the latter are eat by the meaner fort of People,
I
who ſay they are very nouriſhing. The Na-
tives take them with Nets, whofe ends are
ryed by a Rope to the ſtrong Alga, or Sea-ware,
growing on the Rocks. 44

THIS Ifland abounds with variety of Land


and Sea Fowl , and particularly with very
0%
good Hawks.s
0

THERE are Eagles here of two forts, the


one is of a large fize, and gray colour, and
theſe are very deſtructive to the Fawns, Sheep,
and Lambs.
THE
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 37

THE other is confiderably lefs, and black,


and ſhap'd like a Hawk, and more diftructive
to the Deer, &c. than the bigger fort.

THERE is no Venemous Creatures of any



kind here, except a little Viper, which was
not thought Venemous till of late, that a Wo-
man dyed of a Wound' fhe received from one
ofthem .

I have feen a great many Rats in the Vil-


lage Rowdil, which became very troubleſome
to the Natives, and deſtroy'd all their Corn,
Milk , Butter , Cheeſe, &c. They could not
extirpate theſe Vermin for fome time by all
their endeavours. A confiderable number of
Cats was employed for this end, but were ſtill
worsted, and became perfectly faint, becauſe
overpower'd bythe Rats, who were twenty to
one ; at length one of the Natives of more
fagacity than his Neighbours , found an
expedient to renew his Cats Strength and
Courage, which was by giving it warm Milk
after every Encounter with the Rats, and the
like being given to all the other Cats after eve-
ry Battle, fucceeded fo well, that they left
not one Rat alive, notwithſtanding it great
number ofthem in the Place.

ON the Eaſt-ſide the Village Rowdil, there


is a Circle of Stone, within 8 Yards of the
C 3 Shore,
38 A Defcription of the

Shore, it's about 3 Fathom under Water, and


about two ſtories high ; it is in form , broader
above than below, like to the lower ftory of
a Kiln : I faw it perfectly on one fide, but the
feafon being then Windy, hinder'd me from a
full view of it. The Natives fay that there
is fuch another Circle of lefs compafs, in the
Pool Borodil, on the other fide the Bay.

THE Shore on the Weſt Coaſt of this


Ifland , affords variety of curious Shells, and
Walks ; as Telline, and Turbines, of various
kinds ; thin Patelle, Streaked- blue, various
colour'd ; Pectenes , fome blue, and fome of
Orange colours.

THE Os- Sepie is found on the Sand in great


quantities. The Natives pulverize it, and take
a Doſe of it in boiled Milk, which is found
by experience to be an effectual Remedy
againſt the Diarhea, and Dyfenteria. They rub
this Powder likewife, to take off the Film on
the Eyes of Sheep.

1 THERE is variety of Nuts, called Molluka ,


Beans, fome of which are uſed as Amulets
againft Witch-craft, or an Evil Eye, particu
larly the white one, and upon this account
they are wore about Childrens Necks, and if
any Evil is intended to them, they ſay, the
Nut changes into a black colour : That they
did change colour, I found true by my own ob-
ſervation
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland , &c. 39

ſervation, but cannot be pofitive as to the


Cauſe of it.

MALCOM CAMPBELL, Steward of Har-


ries, told me that fome Weeks before my ar-
rival there, all his Cows gave Blood instead
of Milk, forfeveral days together, one of the
Neighbours told his Wife that this muſt be
Witchcraft, and it would be eaſie to remove it,
if fhe would but take the White Nut, called
the Virgin Maries Nut,, and lay it in the Pale
into which he was to milk the Cows ; this
advice the prefently follow'd , and having
milked one Cow into the Pale with the Nut
in it, the Milk was all Blood , and the Nut
changed its colour into dark brown , fhe uſed
the Nut again, and all the Cows gave pure
good Milk, which they afcribe to the virtue
of the Nut. This very Nut Mr. Campbel pre-
fented me with, and I keep it ftill by me.

SOME fmall quantity of Ambergreefe hath


been found on the Coaft ofthe Iſland Barnera.
I was told that a Weaver in this Ifland had
burnt a lump of it , to fhow him a Light for
the moſt part of the Night, but the ſtrong
fcent ofit made his Head ake exceedingly, by
which it was diſcover'd.

AN Ancient Woman , about 60 Years of


age , here loft her Hearing, and having no
Phyfitian to give her advice, he would needs
C 4 try
40 A Defcription of the
try an experiment her felf, which was thus ;
fhe took a Quill with which the ordinarily
fnuſhed her Tobacco, and filling it with the
#
Powder of Tobacco, pour'd it into her Ear,
which had the defired effect , for fhe could
hear perfectly well next day. Another Neigh-
bour about the fame Age , having loft her
Hearing fometime after, recover'd it by the
fame Experiment, as I was told by the Na-
tives.

THE Sheep which feed here on Sandy


Ground, become blind fometimes , and are
cur'd by rubbing Chalk in their Eyes.

A Servant of Sr. Normond Mackcleods, living


in the Ifland of Bernera, had a Mare that
brought forth a Fole with both the hinder Feet
Cloven , which dyed about a Year after ;
the Natives concluded that it was a bad
Omen to the Owner, and his death which fol-
fow'd in a few Years after, confirmed them in
their Opinion. !

THE Natives make uſe of the Seeds of a


White wild Carrot, inſtead of Hops for brew-
ing their Beer, and they fay that it anſwers
the end fufficiently well, and gives the Drink
2
á good reliſh befides .

JOHN CAMPBELL Forrefter of Har-


ties, makes uſe of this fingular Remedy for
the
Weſtern Islands ofScotland, &c. 41

the Cold, he walks into the Sea up to the


middle with his Cloths on,and immediatly af-
ter goes to bed in his wet Cloths, and then
laying the Bed-cloths over him , procures a
Sweat, which removes the Distemper, and
this he told me is his only Remedy for all man-
ner of Colds. One ofthe faid John Campbel's
Servants having his Cheek fwell'd, and there
being no Phyfitian near, he asked his Maſters
advice ; he knew nothing proper for him but
however,bid him apply a Plaiſter of warm Bar-
ley Dough to the place affected, this affwaged
the fwelling, and drew out of the Flefh a lit-
tle Worm, about half an Inch in length, and a-
bout the bigness of a Goofe-quill, having a
pointed Head, and many little Feet on each
fide, this Worm they call Fillan, and it hath
been found in the Head and Neck of feveral
Perſons that I have ſeen in the Ifle of Skie.

ALLIUMLatifolium, a kind of WildGarlick,


is much used by fome of the Natives, as a
Remedy against the Stone ; they boil it in
Water, and Drink the infufion , and it expels
Sand powerfully with great cafe.

THE Natives told me that the Rock on


the Eaft-fide of Harries, in the found of
Ifland Glafs, hath a Vacuity near the front,
on the North-weft fide of the found, in which
they fay there is a Stone that they call the Lu-
nar- Stone, which advances and retires according
to the increaſe and decreaſe of the Moon. A
42 A Defcriptio of the
n

A poor Man Born in the Village Rowdił,


commonly called St. Clements- blind, loft his
fight at every Change of the Moon, which
obliged him to keep his Bed for a Day or two,
and then he recover'd his fight.

THE inferiour Iſlands belonging to Har-


ries, are as follow. The Inland Bernera,
is Five Miles in Circumference, and lies about
Two Leagues to the South ofDarries. The
Soil is Sandy for the moſt part, and yields a
great Product of Barly and Rye in a plentiful
Year, eſpecially if the Ground be enriched by
Sea-ware, and that there be Rain enough to
fatisfie the dry Soil. I had the opportunity
to travel this Iſland feveral times, and upon a
ſtrict enquiry, I found the Product of Barley
to be fometimes 20 fold and upwards, and
at that time all the Eaſt fide of the Iſland pro-
duced 30 fold ; this hath been confirmed to
me by the Natives, particularly, by Sr. Nor-
mond- Mackleod , who poffeffes the Ifland , he
likewiſe confirmed to me the account given by
all the Natives of Harries and South-will,
viz. that one Barley Grain produceth in fome
places 7, 10, 12 , and 14 Ears of Barley,
of which he himſelfbeing diffident for ſometime,
he was at the pains to fearch nicely the Root
of one Grain after fome Weeks growth, and
found that from this One Grain many Ears
had been grown up. But this happens not ex-
cept
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 43

cept when the Seaſon is very favourable, or in


Grounds that have not been cultivated fome
Years before, which if Manur'd with Sea ware,
feldom fails to produce an extraordinary Crop.
It is obferved in this Ifland , as elſewhere, that
when the Ground is dug up with Spades, and
the Turfs turn'd upfide down, and cover'd
with Sea-ware, it yields a better product than
when it is plow'd.

F
THERE is a Freſh-water Lake in this Iſland
called Loch-Bruift, in which there are fmall
Inlands abounding with Land and Sea Fowl ,
which build there in the Summer. There is
likewife plenty of Eels in this Lake, which
are eafieft caught in September, and then
the Natives carry Lights with them in the
Night time to the Rivulet running from the
Lake, in which the Eels fall down to the Sea
in heaps together.

This Ifland in the Summer is covered all


over with Clover, and Dafie, except in the
Corn-fields ; There is to be feen about the
Houſes ofBernera, for the ſpace of a Mile
a foft Subſtance in fhew and colour, exactly
reſembling the Sea-plant , called Slake , and
grows very thick among the Graſs. The Na-
tives fay that it is the Product of a dry hor
Soil, it grows likewife in the tops of feveral .
Hills in the Inland of Harries,

IT'S
44 A Deſcription of the

IT'S proper to add here an account of ſeve


ral ſtrange irregularities in the Tides, on Bers
nera Coaft, by Sr. Robert Murray, mention'd
in the Phil. Tranfactions.

THE Tides increaſe and decreaſe gradually.


according to the Moons Age fo as about the
third day after the New and full Moon, in the
Weſtern Ifles and Continent they are common-
ly at the higheft, and about the quarter Moons,
at the loweft. (The former called Spring-
Tide, the other Neap Tides) the Tides from
the quarter tothe higheſt Spring Tide increaſe

in a certain proportion , and from the Spring


Tide to the Quarter Tide in like proportion ;
and the Ebbs rife and fall always, after the
fame manner.

IT's fuppos'd that the increaſe of Tides is


made in the proportion of fines ; the firſt in-
creafe exceeds the loweft in a fmall proportion ,
the next in a greater, the third greater than
that, and fo on to the middle-moſt, whereof
the excefs is the greateſt,, diminiſhing again
from that to the higheſt Spring- Tide, fo as the
proportions before and after the middle, do
anfwer one another. And likewife from the
higheft Spring Tide, to the lowest Neap- Tide,
the decreafes feem to keep the like proportions.
And this commonly falls out when no Wind,
or other Accident cauſes an alteration . At the

begining
?

4
Weſtern Islands of Scotland, &c. 45

beginning of each Flood on the Coaſt, the


Tide moves fafter, but in a ſmall degree, in-
creafing its fwiftnefs till towards the middle
of the Flood, and then decreaſing in ſwift-
nefs again from the middle to the top of the
High-water , it's fuppofed that the inequal
fpaces of time, the increafe and decreaſe of
fwiftneſs, and confequently the degrees of the
Rifings and Fallings of the fame inequal fpa-
ces of time, are performed according to the
proportion of Sines. The proportion cannot
hold preciſely and exactly in regard of the in-
equalities that fall out in the Periods, of the
Tides, which are believed to follow certain po-
fitions of the Moon in regard of the Equinox,
which are known not to keep a precife con-
ftant Courſe, ſo that there not being equal
Portions ofTime between one New Moon and
another, the Moons return to the fame Me,
ridian cannot be always performed in the
fame time. And the Tides from New-Moon,

being not always the fame in Number, or


fometimes but 57, fometimes 58, fometimes
59, (without any certain order or fucceffion)
is another evidence of the difficulty of reduc-
eing this to any great exactneſs.

AT the Eaft end of this Ifle, there is a


ftrange reciprocation of the flux and reflux of
the Sea. There is another no lefs remarkable

upon the Weft fide of the Long Iſland, the


Tides which come from the South- weft, run
along
ion
45 ript
A Deſc of the

along the Coaſt Northward ; fo that during


the ordinary courfe of the Tides, the Flood
runs Eaft in the Frith, where Berneray lies,
and the Ebb Weft, and thus the Sea Ebbs and
Flows orderly, fome Four days before the Full
and Change ; and as long after, the ordi-
nary Spring- Tides rifing fome 14 or 15 foot
upright, and all the reft proportionably, as in
other places) but afterwards , for Four Days
before the Quarter Moons, and as long after,
there is conſtantly a great and fingular Varia-
tion. For then (a Southerly Moon making there
the full Sea) the Courfeof the Tide being Eaft-
ward : When it begins to flow, which is about
9 of the Clock, it not only continues foà-
bout 3 in the Afternoon , that it • be high-
water, but after it begins to Ebb, the Current
runs on ſtill Eastward, during the Whole Ebb,
ſo that it runs Eaſtward 12 hours together, that
is, all day long, from about 9 in the Morn-
ing, till about 9 at Night. But then when
the Night- Tide begins to Flow, the Current
turns , and runs Weftward all Night, during
both Flood and Ebb for fome 12 hours more,
as it did Eastward the day before, and thus
the Reciprocations continue, one Flood and
Ebb and running 12 hours Eaſtward, and ano-
ther 12 hours Weftward, till 4 days before
the Full and New Moon ; and then they re-
fume their ordinary regular Courſe as before,
tunning Eaft during the Six hours of Flood ,
and Weft during the Six of Ebb.
THERE
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 47

THERE is another extraordinary Irregula-


rity in the Tides, which never fail . That
whereas between the Vernal and Autumnal E-

quinox, that is for fix Months together, the


Courſe of irregular Tides about the Quarter
Moons, is to run all day, 12 hours, as from
about 9 to 9 to 10 exact Eastward all night,
that is, 12 hours more Weftward , during the
other fix Months, from the Autumnal to the
Vernal Equinox, the Current runs all Day
Weftward, and all Night Eaſtward . I have
obferved the Tides as above, for the ſpace of
fome Days both in April , May , July, and
Auguft. The Natives have frequent oppor-
tunities to fee this both Day and Night,
and they all agree that the Tides run as
mention'd above.

THERE's a Couple of Ravens in this Ifland,fee


which beat away all Ravenous Fowls , andfame
when their Young are able to fly abroad, they p. 60
beat them alfo out of the Ifland,but not with-

our many blows, and a great Noiſe.

THERE are two Chappels in this Ifle, to


wit, St.Afaphs,andSt. Columbus's Chappel.There
is a Stone erected near the former, which is
8 Foot high, and 2 Foot thick.

ABOUT half a League from Berntera, to


the Weftward , lies the Ifland Pabbay, 3
Miles in Circumference, and having a Mountain
in the middle ; the Soil is Sandy, and fruit-
fra!
1
48 A Deſcription of the

fruitful in Corn and Graſs, and the Natives


have lately diſcovered here a white Marle.
The Weft end of this Ifland which looks to
St Kilda, is called the Wooden Harbour, be-
cauſe the Sands at Low- water , diſcover feve-
ral Trees that have formerly grown there. Sir
Normand Mackleod told me that he had feen a
Tree cut there, which was afterwards made
into a Harrow.

THERE are two Chappels in this Iſland,


one of which is Dedicated to the Virgin Mary,
the other to St. Muluag.
THE Steward of Bilda, who lives in Pab-
bay, is accuſtomed in time of a Storm, to tie
a bundle of Puddings made of the Fat of Sea-
Fowl to the end of his Cable, and lets it fall
into the Sea, behind the Rudder, this he fays
hinders the Waves from breaking, and calms
the Sea ; but the fcent of the Greaſe at-
tracts the Whales, which put the Veſſel in
danger.

ABOUT half a League to the North of


Pabbay, lies the Ifle Sellay, a Mile in Cir-
cumference, that yields extraordinary Paftu-
rage for Sheep, fo that they become fat very
foon ; they have the biggeſt Horns that ever
I ſaw on Sheep.

About a League farther to the North, lies


the Ifle Taranfag, very fruitful in Corn and
Grafs,
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 49

Grafs, and yeilds much yellow Talk. It is


3 Miles in Circumference, and has two Chap .
pels, one dedicated to St. Tarran, the other
to St. Keith.

THERE is an ancient Tradition among


the Natives here, that a Man must not be
Buried in St. Tarrans, nor a Woman in St.
Kieth's, becauſe otherwife the Corps would
be found above Ground the day after it is In-
terred. I told them this was a moft ridicu-

lous fancy, which they might foon perceive by


experience, if they would but put it to a try-
al. Roderick Campbel, who refides there, be-
ing of my opinion, refolved to embrace the
first opportunity that offer'd, in order to un-
deceive the Credulous Vulgar, and accords
ingly a poor Man in this Ifland who dyed a
Year after, was buried in St. Tarrans Chap-
pel, contrary to the ancient Cuſtom and Tra-
dition of this place, but his Corps are fill in
the Grave, from whence it is not like to rife
until the general Refurrection. This inftance
has delivered the credulous Natives from this
unreaſonable fancy. This Ifland is a Mile
diſtant from the main Land of Darries, and
when the Inhabitants go from this Ifland to
Harries with a defign to ſtay for any time,
they agree with thofe that carry them over, on
a particular motion of walking upon a certain
peice of Ground, unknown to every body but
themſelves as a fignal to bring ' em back.
D THREE
50 A Deſcription of the

1
THREE Leagues to the Weftward of this
Inland, lies Gasker , about half a Mile in
circumference, it excels any other plot of its
extent, for fruitfulnefs in Grafs and Product of
Milk, it maintains 8 or 10 Cows ; the Na-
tives kill Seals here which are very big.

ABOUT two Leagues farther North lies


the Ifland Scarp, 2 Miles in Circumference,
and is a high Land covered with Heath and
Grafs.

BETWEEN Bernera and the Main Land


of Harries lies the lfland Enfay, which is
above 2 Miles in Circumference, and for the
moft part Arable Ground, which is "fruitful in
Corn and Grass ; there is an old Chappel here
for the ufe of the Natives, and there was lately
diſcovered a Grave in the Weft end of the Iſland,
in which was found a pair of Scales made of
Brafs, and a little Hammer, both which were
finely polished.

BETWEEN Entay and the main Land of


Harries, lies feveral fmall Iflands, fitter for
Pafturage then Gultivation .

THE little Ifland Quedam, hath a Vein of


Adamant Stone, in the front ofthe Rock ; the
Natives fay that Mice don't live in this Ifland,
and when they chance to be carried thither
among
Weſtern Inlands of Scotland, &c. $1

aomng Corn, they die quickly after, without


thefe fmall Iſlands, there is a Tract offmall Ifles
in the fame Line with the Eaftſide of the Har
ries, and North bift, Theyare in all refpects
of the fame Nature with thoſe two Iſlands , fo
that the fight of them is apt to difpofe one to
think that they have been once united together.

THE moſt Southerly of theſe Iſlands , and


the nearest to North- vis is Hermetra, two
miles in Circumference, it is a Moorish Soil,
covered all over almoſt with Heath, except here
and there a few Piles of Grafs , and the Plant
Milk-wort, yet notwithstanding this difad-
vantage, it is certainly the beſt ſpot of its
extent for Pafturage, among theſe Ifles, and af
fords great plenty of Milk in January and
February beyond what can be feen in the other
Iflands.

I faw here the foundation of aHouſe built by


the English, in K. Charles the Firſt's time, for
one of their Magazines to lay up the Cask,
Salt, &c. for carrying on the Fishery, which
was then begun in the Weſtern Islands, but this
defign miſcarried becauſe of the Civil Wars,
which then broke out.

THE Channel between Harries and


202th bift, is above three Leagues in breadth,
and abounds with Rocks, as well under as a-
bove Water, Tho' at the fame time, Veffels of
D 2 300
5i A Deſcription of the
300 Tuns have gone through it, from Eaft to
Weft , having the advantage of one of the Na-
tives for a Pilot, fome 16 years ago, one Cap-
tain Froft was fafely conducted in this manner.
The Harries belongs in property to the Laird
of Mack Leod, he and all the Inhabitants are
Proteftants ,and obferve the Feſtivals of Chriſt-
mafs, Godfriday, and St. Michaels day, upon
the latter, they Rendezvous on Horſe back,and
make their Cavalcade on the Sands at low
water.

THE Iland of 2o2th vist lyes about three


Leagues to the South of the Ifland of Harries,
being in form of a Semi- circle, the Diameter of
which looks to the Eaft and is Mountainous
and full of Heath, and fitter for Pafturage then
Cultivation . The Weft fide is of a quite dif-
ferent Soil, Arable and Plain, the whole is in
length from South to North Nine Miles, and
about Thirty in Circumference.

THERE are Four Mountains in the middle,


Two he within lefs then a Mile of each other ,
and are called South and North-Lee ; all
the Hills and Heath afford good Pafturage, tho'
it confifts as much of Heath as Grafs. The
Arable Ground hath a mixture of Clay infome
places, and it is covered all over in Summer-
time, and Harveft with Clover, Dafie , and
Variety of other Plants, pleaſant to the fight,
and of a fragrant fmell , and abounds with
in
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 5.3

with black Cattle, and Sheep. The Soil is very


grateful to the Husband- man, yielding a Pro-
duce of Barley, from Ten to Thirty fold in a
plentiful Year ; provided the Ground be ma-
nur'd with Sea- ware, and that it have Rain pro-
portionable to the Soil. I have upon ſeveral
occafions enquired concerning the produce of
Barley,in this and the Neighbouring¡flands; the
fame being much doubted in the South of
Scotland, as well as in England ; and upon the
whole, I have been affured by the moſt Anti-
ent and Induſtrious of the Natives, that the
increaſe is the fame as mentioned before in
Dairies.

THEY told me likewife, that a Plot of


Ground which hath lain unmanur'd for fome
Years, would in a Plentiful ſeaſon produce
Fourteen Ears of Barley from One Grain ; and
feveral Ridges were then fhewed me of

this extraordinary Growth in different pla-


ces. The Grain fow'n here is Barley, Oats,
Rye ; and it's not to be doubted , but the Soil
would alſo produce Wheat. The way of
Tillage here is commonly by Ploughing, and
fome by Digging ; the ordinary Plough is drawn
by four Hories, and they have a little Plough
alſo call'd Riftle, i . e. a thing that cleaves, the
Culter of, which is in Form ofa Sickle, and it
is drawn ſometimes by One, and fometimes by
Two Horfes, according as the Ground is ;
the deſign of this little Plow is to draw a deep.
·D 3 Line
54 A Description of the
Line in the Ground , to make it the more eaſie
for the big Plow to follow, which otherwiſe
would be much retarded by the ftrong Roots
of Bent lying deep in the Ground, that are
cut by the little Plow . When they dig with
Spades, it produceth more increafe ; the little
Plow is likewife ufed to facilitate Digging as
well as Plowing ; they continue to Manure
the Ground until the 10th of June, if they
have plenty of Braggir, i. e. the broad Leaves
growing on the top of the Alga-Marina.

ABOUT a League and a half to the South


of the Island Hermetra in Harries , lies
Loch-Maddy, 10 called from the three Rocks
without the Entry on the South fide : They
are called Middies, from the great quantity
of big Mufcles call'd Maddies that grows upon
them. This Harbour is Capacious enough for
fome hundreds of Veflels of any Burthen ; it
hath feveral Ifles within it, and they contri-
bute to the fecurity of the Harbour , for a Vef-
fel may fafely come clofe to the Key ; the Sea.
men divide the Harbour in two parts, calling
the South- fide Loch-Maddy, and the North-
fide Loch-partan. There is one Iſland in
the South Loch which for its Commodiouf
ness is by the English call'd Nonfuch ; this
Loch hath been famous for the great quantity
of Herrings yearly taken in it within thefe 50
Years laft paft : The Natives told me that
in the Memory of fome yet alive, there had
been
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &:. 55

been 400 Sail Loaded in it with Herrings at


one Seaſon ; but it is not now frequented for
Fiſhing, tho' the Herrings do ftill abound in it,
and on this Coaſt every Summer and Harveſt ,
the Natives fit Angling on the Rocks, and as
they pull up their Hooks, do many times.
bring up Herrings ; That they are always on
the Coaſt, appears from the Birds, Whales,
and other Fiſhes, that are their forerunners eve-
ry where, and yet it is ftrange that in all this
Ifland there is not one Herring Net to be had ;
but ifthe Natives faw any Encouragement ,
they could foon provide ' em. Cod , Ling,
and all forts of Fiſh taken in theſe Iſlands a-
bound in and about this Lake.

IN this Harbour there is a ſmall Iſland call-


ed Macklay, in which there is ftill to be feen
the Foundation of a Houſe, built by the Eng-
lifh, for a Magazine to keep their Cask, Salt,
&c. for carrying on a great Fishery which was
then begun there. The Natives told me that
King Charles the ift. had a fhare in it This
Lake with the convenience of its Fishings and
Inlands is certainly capable of great improve-
ment ; much of the Ground about the Bay is
capable of Cultivation, and affords a great deal
of Fuel, as Turff, Peats, and plenty of Freſh-
Water. It alſo affords a good quantity of
Oysters, and Clam-fhell- fish, the former grows
on Rocks, and are ſo big that they are cut in
four peices before they are eat.
D 4 ALOUT
n
iptio
56 A Deſcr of the

ABOUT half a Mile further South isLoche


Eport, having a Rock without the Mouth of
the Entry, which is narrow ; the Lake pene-
trates fome Miles towards the Weft, and is a
good Harbour, having feveral fmall Ifles with-
in it. The Seals are very numerous here. In
the Month of July the Spring- Tides carry in a
great quantity of Macrel, and at the return of
the Water, they are found many times lying
on the Rocks. The Vulgar Natives make ufè
of the Aſhes ofburnt Sea- ware, which preferves
them for fome time inſtead of Salt.

ABOUT two Miles to the South of Loch:


Epost lies the Bay, called the Byle of Rona;
having the Ifland of that Name (which is a lit-
tle Hill) within the Bay ; there is a Harbour
on each ſide of it, this Place hath been found
of great convenience for the Fiſhing of Cod ,
and Ling, which abounds on this Coaſt ; there
is a little Chappel in the Ifland Rona, called
the Low-landers Chappel, becauſe Seamen who
dye in time of Fishing, are buried in that
place.

THERE is a Harbour on the South fide the


Inland Borera, the Entry feems to be nar-
rower then really it is ; the Ifland and the op-
pofite Point of Land appear like two little Pro .
montories off at Sea. Some Veſſels have been
forced in there by Storm, as was Captain Pe-
ters,
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 57

ters a Dutch Man, and after him an English


Ship, who both approved of this Harbour ;
the former built a Cock-boat there on a Sun-
day, at which the Natives were much of-
fended. The latter having Landed in the Ifland
happened to come into a Houfe where he found
only Ten Women, and they were imploy'd
(as he fuppos'd) in a ſtrange manner, viz. their
Arms and Legs were bare, being Five on a
fide, and between them lay a Board, upon
which they had laid a piece of Cloth, and were
thickning of it with their Hands and Feet, and
Singing all the while , the English Man,
preſently concluded it to be a little Bedlam 9
which hedid not expect in fo remote a Corner,
and this he told to Mr. John Macklean, who
poffeffes the Iſland ; Mr. Macklean anſwer'd
he never faw any Mad People in thoſe Iſlands
but this would not ſatisfie him, till they both
went to the place where the Women were at
work, and then Mr. Macklean having told him,
that it was their common way of thickning
Cloth, he was convinced, tho' furpriz'd at the
manner of it.

THERE is fuch a number of Freſh-water


12
Lakes here, as can hardly be believed , I my
ſelf and ſeveral others indeavour'd to number
them, but in vain, for they are fo difpos'd into
turnings, that it is impracticable. They are
generally well ſtock'd with Trouts and Eels ,
and fome of ' em with Salmon, and which is
yet
58 A Defcription of the
yet more ſtrange, Cod, Ling, Macrel &c. are
taken in thefe Lakes into which they are
brought by the Spring Tides.

THESE Lakes have many ſmallIſlands which


in Summer abound with variety of Land andSea
Fowls, that build and hatch there. There be
alfo feveral Rivers here, which afford Salmon,
one fort of them is very fingular, that is called
Marled Salmon, or as the Natives call it iesk-
druimin, being leffer then the ordinary Salmon,
and full ofstrong Large Scales, no bait can al-
lure it, and a fhadow frights it away, being the
wildeſt of fishes, it leaps high above water,
and delights to be in the furface of it.

THERE's great plenty of Shell-fiſh round


this Ifland, more particularly Cockles,the Iflands
do alfo afford many fmall Fish called Eels of a
whitish colour, they are picked out of the
Sand with a ſmall crooked Iron made on pur-
pofe. There is plenty of Lobſters on the weſt
fide of this Ifland , and one fort bigger then the
reft , having the Toe fhorter and broader.

THERE are ſeveral antient Forts in this


Ifland, built upon Eminences , or in the middle
offresh water Lakes.

HERE are likewiſe ſeveral Kairns or Heaps


of Stones,the biggeſt I obferved was on a hill
near to Loch-Eport . There are three Stones
ereded
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 59

erected about five foot high, at the diſtance of


a quarter of a mile from one another, on E-
minences about a mile from Loch- Maddy, to a-
mufe Invaders, for which reaſon they are ſtill
called falſe ſentinels.

THERE is a Stone of 24 foot long and 4 in

breadth in the hill Criniveal, the Natives fay


a Giant of a month old was buried under it.
There is a very confpicuous Stone in the face of
the Hill above St. Peters, village, aboue 8 foot
high.

THERE is another about 8 foot high at


Down-roffel which the natives call a Croſs.
There are two broad Sones about 8 foot
high on the hill two miles to the South of
malay.

THERE is another at the Key oppofite to


Birkibaft 12 foot high , the Natives fay that
delinquents were tyed to this Stone in time of
Divine Service.

THERE is a Stone in form of a Crofs in the


Row, oppofite to St. Maries Church , about
5 foot high, the Natives call it the water Croſs,
for the antientInhabitants had aCuſtom of erect-
ing this fort of Croſs to procure rain, and when
they had got enough they laid it flat on the
ground,but this cuſtom is now disufed .The inferi-
or Inland is the Ifland of Deiskir which lycs near
three
60 A Deſcription of the

threeLeagues weftward of North Wift is three


miles in Circumference of a fandy foil, and very
fruitful in Corn and Grafs, Black Cattle and
the Inhabitants labour under want of Fuel of

all forts, which obliges them to burn Cows


Dung, Barley ſtraw, and dry'd Sea- ware ; the
Natives told me that bread baked by the Fuel 1
of Sea-ware, reliſhes better than that done
otherwife. They are accuſtomed to Salt
their Cheeſe with the Ashes of Barley Straw,
which they fuffer not to ly on it above 12
hours time, becauſe otherwiſe it would ſpoil it.
There was a Stone Cheft lately diſcovered
Um here, having an earthen Pitcher in it which was
full of Bones, and affoon as touched they
to Duft .

THERE are two fmall Islands feparated by


narrow Channels from the Northwest of
this Ifland, and are ofthe fame Mold with the
big Ifland. The Natives fay that there is a
Couple of Ravens there, which fuffer no other
7.47
. of their kind to approach this Iſland, and if any
fuch Chance to come, this Couple immediately
drive them away, with fuch a noife as is heard
by all the Inhabitants : They are obſerved like-
wife to beat away their young as foon as they
be able topurchafe for themſelves ; the Natives
told me that when one of this Couple happened
to be Wounded by Gun-fhot, it lay ftill in
the Corner of a Rock for a week or two, du-
ing which time its Mate brought Proviſion to
it
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland , &c. 61

it daily , until it recovered perfectly : the Na-


tives add further that one of theſe two Ravens
having dyed fome time after; the furviving one
abandoned the Iſland for a few days, and then
was ſeen to return with about ten or 12 more
ofits kind and having choſen a Mate out of
this number all the rest went quite off, leaving
theſe two in Poffeffion of their little Kingdom,
they do by a certain fagacity diſcover to the
Inhabitants any Carcafe, on the Shoar or in the
fields ( whereof I have ſeen ſeveral inftances ; )
The inhabitants pretend to know by their noiſe,
whether it be Flefh or Fifh, I told them,this was
fuch a Nicety that I could ſcarcely give it cre-
dit,but they anſwered me that they came to the
knowledge of it by obfervation , and that they
make their loudeft noiſe for Flesh. There is a
narrow Channel between the Ifland ofHeiskir
and one ofthe leffer Iflands in which the Na-
tives formerly killed many Seals, in this man-
ner, they twiſted together ſeveral ſmall Ropes
of Horſe Hair in form of a Net contracted at
one end like a Purfe, and fo by opening and
fhutting this Hair Ner, thefe Seals were
catched in the narrow Channel. On the South
Side of Northvift are the Iflands of Illeray
which are acceffible at low Water, each of them
being 3 miles in compaſs and are very fertile
in Corn and Cattle,

On the weſtern Coaft, of this land lyes


the Rock Coufmil, about a quarter ofa mile
in
62 A Deſcription of the
in circumference, and it is ftill famous for the
yearly fishing of Seals there, in the end of
October, this Rock belongs to the Farmers of
the next adjacent Lands, there is one who fur-
nisheth a Boat, to whom there is a particular
fhare due on that account , befides his proporti-
on as Tenant, the Parish Minifter hath his
choice ofall the Young Seals, and that which he
takes is called by the Natives, Cullen Mory,
that is, the Virgin Marys Seal. The Steward
ofthe Iſland hath one paid to him, his Officer
hath another, and this by vertue of their Offi-
ces. Theſe Farmers man their Boat with a com-
petent number fit for the buſineſs, and they
always imbarque with a contrary wind, for their
fecurity against being driven away by the
Ocean, and likewife to prevent them from being
difcovered, by the Seals, who are apt to ſmell
the ſcent of them , and prefenely run to ſea.

WHEN this Crew is quietly landed , they


furround the Paffes, and then the fignal for the
general attacque is given from the Boat, and
fo they beat them down with bigftaves. The
Seals at this On - ſet make towards the Sea with
all ſpeed, and often force their paffage over the
necks of the ftouteſt aflailants, who aim always
at the Forehead of the Seals, giving many blows
before they be killed, and if they be not hir
exactly on the front they contract a Lump on
their Forehead which makes them look very

fierce, and if they get hold of the Staff with


their
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 63

their Teeth, they carry it along to Sea with


them. Thoſe that are in the Boat fhoot at
them as they run to Sea, but few are catch'd
that way. The Natives told me that feveral

ofthe biggeſt Seals lofe their Lives by endeavou


ring to Save their Young ones,whom they tun
ble before them, towards the Sea. I was told
alſo that 320 Seals Young and Old have been
killed at one time in this Place. The reafon
ofattacking 'em in October,is, becauſe in the be-

ginning ofthis month the Seals bring forth


their Young on the Ocean Side, but thefe on
the Eaſt Side who are of the leffer ftature
bring forth their Young in the middle of
June.

THE Seals cat no Fiſh till they firſt take off


the Skin, they hold the Head of the Fish be-
tween their Teeth, and pluck the Skin off each
Side with their fharp pointed Nails, this I ob .
ferved feveral times. The Natives told me ,

that the Seals are regularly coupled , and refent


an Encroachment on their Mates at an extra-
ordinary rate, the Natives have obferved that
when a Male had invaded a Female, already
coupled to another the injured Male upon its
return to its Mate would by a ſtrange Sagacity
find it out and refent it againſt the aggreffor by
a bloody conflict , which gives a red Tincture to
the Sea in that part where they Fight ; this
piece of revenge has been often oblerved by
Seal Hunters , and many others of unquestiona-
ble
64 A Deſcription of the

ble Integrity, whofe occafions obliged them to


be much on this Caaft, I was affured by good
Hands that the Seals make their addreffes to
each other by kiffes, this hath been obſerved of-
ten by Men andWomen as Fiſhing on the Coaſt
in a clear Day: the Female puts away its Young
from fucking, as foon as it is able to provide
for it felf, and this is not done without many
fevere blows.

THERE is a Hole in the Skin ofthe Female,


within which the Teats are fecured from be
ing hurt, as it creeps along the Rocks and
Stones, for which caufe nature hath formed
the point ofthe Tongue of the Young one clo-
ven without which it could not fuck.

THE Natives Salt the Seals with the aſhes


of burnt Sea-ware, and fay they are good Food,
the vulgar eat them commonly in the Spring
time with a long pointed Stick inſtead of a
Fork, to prevent the ftrong fmell which their
hands would otherwife have for feveral Hours

after. The Flesh and Broth of freſh Young


Seals, is by experience known to be Pectoral ;
the Meat is Aftringent, and uſed as an ef
fectual remedy againſt the Diarrhea and Dyſentes
ria ; the Liver of a Seal being dry'd and pul-
veriz'd, and afterwards a little of it drunk with
Milk, Aquavita or Red-Wine, is alfo good
againſt Fluxes.

SOME
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 65

SOME of the Natives wear a Girdle of the


Seals-skin about their middle for removing the
Sciatica, as thofe of the Shire of Aberdeen
wear it to remove the Chin-cough. This four-
footed Creature is reckon'd one of the fwifteſt
in the Sea ; they ſay likewiſe that it leaps in
Cold Weather the height of a Pike above Wa-
ter, and that the Skin of it is white in Sum-
mer and darker in Winter, and that their Hair

ſtands on end with the Flood, and falls again


at the Ebb : The Skin is by the Natives cut in
long pieces, and then made ufe of inſtead of
Ropes to fix the Plow to their Horſes when
they Till the Ground.

THE Seal, tho' efteemed fit only for the


Vulgar,is alſo eaten by Perſons of Diſtinction,
tho' under a different Name, to wit, Hamm 5
this I have been affur'd of by good hands , and
thus weſee that the generality of Men are as
much led by fancy as judgment in their Palates
as well as in other things. The Popish Vul-
gar in the Iflands Southward from this , cat
thefe Seals in Lent inſtead of Fish, this occafi-
on'd a debate between a Protestant Gentleman
anda Papist of my Acquaintance, the former
alledged that the other had tranfgreffed the
Rules of his Church, by eating Flefh in Lent,
the latter antwer'd, that he did not, for fays he
I have eat a Sea Creature, which only lives and
feeds upon Fish, the Proteftant reply'd , that this
E Creature
66 A Deſcription of the
Creature is Amphibious, lies , creeps , eats
fleeps, and ſo ſpends much of its time on Land,
which no Fish can do and live. It hath alfo
another faculty that no Fifh has, that is, it
breaks Wind backward fo loudly, that one
may hear it at a great diftance ; but the Pa-
piſt ſtill maintain'd that he muft believe it to
be Fiſh till fuch time as the Pope and his
Prieſts decide the queſtion.

ABOUT Three Leagues and an half to the


Weft, lies the ſmall Iflands called Dawsker,
Rocks, and Hawsker Eggath, and Haw.
Sker-Nimannich, id , eft, Monks-Rock, which
hath an Altar in it, the first called fo from the
Ocean as being near to it, for Haw or Thau
in the Ancient Language fignifies the Ocean,
the more Southerly Rocks are 6 or 7 big ones
nicked or indented, for Eggathfignifies ſo much
the largeſt ifland which is Northward, is near
halfa Mile in Circumference, and it is cover-
ed with long Grafs , only fmall Veſſels can pafs
between this and the Southern Rocks, being
nearest to St. Kilda of all the Weft Iflands ;
both of ' em abound with Fowls as much as
any fles of their extent in St. Kilda. The
Coulterneb Guillemot, and Scarts are moſt
numerous here, the Seals likewife abound very
much in and about theſe Rocks .

THE Ifland of Talay lies on the Weft near


the main Land ofNorthvit, it is about 4
Miles
Weftern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 67
Miles in Circumference, arable and a dry San-
dy Soil, very fruitful in Corn and Grafs, Clo-
ver and Dafie. It hath Three Chappels, One
Dedicated to St. Ulton, and another to the Vir-
gin Mary. There are Two Croffes of Stone,
each of them about 7 Foot high, and a Foot
and a half broad .

THERE is a little Font on an Altar, being a

big Stone, round in like of a Cannon Ball ,


and having in the upper end a little Vacuity
capable of two Spoonfuls of water ; below
the Chappels there is a flat thin Stone, called
Brownies Stone, upon which the ancient Inha-
bitants offered a Cows Milk every Sunday, but

this Cuſtom is now quite abolish'd . Some


Thirty Paces on this fide is to be feen a little
Stone Houſe under Ground, it is very low and
long, having an entry on the Sea fide ; I faw
an entry in the middle of it, which was dif-
cover'd by the falling of the Stones and Earth.

ABOUT a League to the North -east of


alay is the land ofBojera, about 4 Miles

in Circumference, the Mold in fome places is


Sandy, and in others black Earth, it is very
fruitful in Cattle and Grafs ; I faw a Mare here,
which I was told brought forth a Fole in her
Second Year.

THERE is a Cow here that brought forth


two Female Calves at once, in all things fo very
E 2 like
68 A Deſcription of the
Jike one another that they could not be diftin-
guished by any outward mark, and had fuch a
fimpathy, that they were never feparate, except
in time of fucking, and then they kep'd ſtill
their own fide of their Dam, which was not
obferved until a diftinguishing Mark was put
about one of their Necks by the Milk-maid.
in the middle of this Ifland, there's a Freſh-
water Lake, well ſtock'd with very big Eels,
fome of them as long as Cod, or Ling- Fiſh ;
there is a paffage under the Stony Ground,
whichis between the Sea and the Lake, through
which it's the fuppos'd Eels come in with the
Spring Tides ; one of the Inhabitants called
Mick-van fh , i. e. Monks- Son,had the curiofity to
creep naked through this Paſſage.

THIS Iſland affords the largeſt and beſt


Dulfe for eating, it requires lefs Butter than
any other of this fort, and has a mellowish
Tafe.

THE Burial place near the Houſes, is called


the Monks-Field, for all the Monks that dyed
in the flands that lye Northward from Egg ,
were buried in this little Plot, each Grave hath
a Stone at both ends, fome of which are 3
and others 4 Foot high. There are big Stones
without the Burial place even with theGround,
feveral of them have little Vacuitics in them as

if made by Art ; the Tradition is that theſe Va-


cuities were dug for receiving the Monks Knees
when they prayed upon 'em. THE
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland , &c. 69

THE Inland Lingay, lyes half a League


South on the fide . of Bozeray, it is fingular
in respect of all the Lands of it and the
other Iflands that furround it, for they are
all compoſed of Sand, and this on the contrary,
is altogether Mofs covered with Heath , afford-
ing five Peats in depth , and is very fervicable
and uſeful, furniſhing the Ifland Bozeray, &c.
with Plenty of good Fuel : This land was
held as Confecrated for feveral Ages, info much
that the Natives would not then prefume ta
cut any Fuel in it.

THE Cattle produced here,are Horles , Cows,


Sheep and Hogs, generally of a low flature ;
the Horſes are very ſtrong and fit for Pads, tho'
expofed to the rigour of the weather all the
Winter and Spring in the open Fields. Their

Cows are alfo in the Fields all the Spring, and


their Beef is sweet and tender as any can be;

they live upon Sea-ware in the Winter and


Spring, and are fatned by it, nor are they
flaughtered before they eat plentifully of it
in December. The Natives are accustomed to
falt their Beefin a Cows Hide, which keeps it
clofe from Air, and preferves it as well, ifnot
better, then Barrels, and tafts they fay beſt
when this way ufed : This Beef is tranfported
to Glasgow, a City in the Weftof Scotland,
and from thence(being put into Barrels there )ex-
ported to the Indies in goodCondition The Hills
E 3 afford
70 A Deſcription of the
afford fome hundreds of Deer , who eat
Sea-ware alſo in Winter and Spring-time.

THE Amphibia produced here are Seals, and


Otters. There is no Fox or venemous Crea-
ture in this Inland . The great Eagles here
faſten their Tallons in the back of Fiſh, and
commonly ofSalmon, which is often above Wa-
ter and in the furface. The Natives who in
the Summer time live on the Coaft, do fome-
times rob the Eagle of its Prey after its Land-
ing.

HERE are Hawks, Eagles, Pheaſants, Moor-


Fowls, Tarmogan, Plover , Pigeons , Crows,
Swans, and all the ordinary Sea-Fowls in the
Weft Iflands. The Eagles are very deftructive
to the Fawns and Lambs, eſpecially the black
Eagle, which is of a leffer fize then the other.
The Natives obferve that it fixes its Tallons
between the Deers Horns, and beats its Wings
conſtantly about its Eyes, which puts the Deer
to run continually till it fall into a Ditch, or
over a Precipice , where it dies, and fo be-
comes a Prey to this cunning Hunter. There
are at the fame time feveral other Eagles ofthis
kind which flye on both fides of the Deer,
which frights it extreamly, and contributes
much to its more fudden deftruction.

THE Forefter and ſeveral of the Natives


affured me, that they had feen both forts of
Eagles
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &:. 71

Eagles kill Deer in this manner. The Swans


come hither in great Numbers in the Month
of October, with North Eaft Winds, and live
in the freſh Lakes, where they feed upon
Trout and Water Plants till March, at which
time they fly away again with a South- eaft
Wind. When the Natives kill a Swan it is
common for the Eaters of it to make aNegative-
vow ( i. e. they fwear never to do fomething
that is in it ſelf impracticable. ) before they taſte
ofthe Fowl.

THE Bird Corn Craker, is about the bigness


of a Pigeon, having a longer Neck, and being
of a brown Colour, but blacker in harveſt then
in Summer ; the Natives fay it lives by the
Water, and under the Ice in Winter and Spring,

THE Colk is a Fowl fomewhat lefs than a

Goofe, hath Feathers of divers colours, as White,


Gray, Green and Black , and is beautiful to
the Eye ; it hath a Tuft on the Crown of its
Head like that of a Peacock, and a Train longer
then that of Houfe-Cock. This Fowl loofeth
its Feathers in time of Hatching, and lives
moftly in the remoteft flands, as Heisker
and Rona.

THE Gawlin, is a Fowl lefs than a Duck,


it is reckon'd a true Prognofticator of fair wea-
ther, for when it fings fair and good wea-
ther always follows, asthe Natives commonly
E 4 obferve ;
72 A Defcription of the

obferve ; the Piper of St. Kilda plays the Notes


which it fings, and hath compofed a Tune of
'em, which the Natives judge to be very fine
Mufick.

THE Rain-goofe bigger then a Duck, makes


a doleful Noife before a great Rain, it builds its
Neft always upon the brink of freſh water
Lakes, fo as it may reach the water.

THE Bonnivochil, fo called by the Natives,


and by the Seamen, Bishop, and Carara, as big
as a Goofe, having a white foot on the Breaſt,
and the reſt party coloured, it feldom flies, but
is exceeding quick in diving ; the Miniſter of
Northvilt told me that he kill'd one of them
which weighed Sixteen Pound and an Ounce ;
there is about an Inch deep of Fat upon the
Skin of it, which the Natives apply to the
Hip Bone, and by experience find it a fuccesful
Remedy for removing the Sciatica.

THE Bird Goylir, about the bigness of a


Swallow, is obferved never to Land but in the
Month of January, at which time it is fuppofed
to hatch, it dives with a violent fwiftneſs ;
when any number of thefe Fowls are feen toge
ther, its concluded to be an undoubted fign of
an approaching ſtorm , and when the ftorm
ceafes they disappear under the Water, the
Seamen call them Malifigies , from Maliceffigies ,
which they often find to be true.
THE
Weſtern Iflands ofScotland, &c. 73

THE Bird Sereachan- aittin, is about the


bigness of a large Mall but having a longer
Body, and a blewiſh Colour, The Bill is of a
Carnation Colour, This Bird fhreiks moft hi-
deoully, and is obferved to have a greater af-
fection for its Mate, than any Fowl whatſoe-
ver, for when the Cock or Hen is killed , the
furviving one doth for 8 or 10 Days after-
ward make a Lamentable Noife about the
place.

THE Bird Faskidar, about the bigness of a


Sea-maw of the middle fize is obferved to fly
with greater swiftnefs than any other fowl in
thoſe parts, and purfues leffer fowls , and for-
ces them in their flight to let fall the Food
which they have got, and by its nimbleneſs
catches it, before it touch the Ground.

THE Natives obſerve that an extraordinary


heat without Rain at the ufual time the Sea-
fouls lay their Eggs, hinders them from lay-
ing any Eggs, for about 8 or ten Days, where-
as warm Weather accompanied with Rain dif-
poſes them to lay much fooner.

THE Wild Geefe are plentiul here and very


deftructive to the Barley, notwithſtanding the
many methods used for driving them away
bothby Traps and Gun-fhot. There are fome
flocks of barren Fowls of all kinds, which
are diftinguiſhed by their not joyning with
the
74 A Defcription of the

the reſt of their kind, and they are ſeen com-


monly upon the bare Rocks, without any
Nefts.

THE Air here is moist and moderately


Cold, the Natives qualify it fometimes by
drinking a Glafs of Ufquebaugh, the moiſture
of this Place is fuch that a Loaf of Sugar is
in Danger to be diſſolved, if it be not preſerved
by being near the Fire, or laying it among
Oat Meal, in fome clofe place ; Iron here be
comes quickly rufty, and Iron which is on the
Sea fide of a Houſe grows fooner ruſty than
that which is on the Land fide.

THE greateſt Snow falls here with the


South-west Winds, and feldom continues above
three or four Days. The ordinary Snow falls
with the North and Northwest Winds, and
dos not lye fo deep on the Ground near the
Sea, as on the tops of Mountains.

THE Froſt continues till the Spring is pret-


ty far advanced,the feverity of which occafions
Great numbers of Trouts and Eles to Dye, but
the Winter Frofts have not this effect, for
which the Inhabitants give this reafon viz.
That the rains being more frequent in October,
do in their opinion carry the Juice and Quintef
fence of the Plants into the Lakes, whereby
they think theFish are nouriſhed during the win-
ter and there being no fuch nouriſhment in the
Spring
Weſtern Iflands of Scotland, &c. 75

Spring, in regard of the uninterrupted running


of the Water which carries the Juice with it to
the Sea, it deprives the Fiſh of this nouriſhment,
and confequently of Life, and they add fur-
ther, that the Fiſh have no acceſs to the Sup-
perficies of the Water, or to the brink of it,
where the Juice might be had. The Natives
are the more confirmed in their opinion, that
the Fiſhes in Lakes and Marifhes are obferved
to out-Live both Winter and Spring Frofts.
The Eaſt North East Winds always procure
fair weather here as they do in all the North
Weft Inlands, and the rains are more frequent
in this place in October and February, than at
any other time of the Year.

FOUNTAIN Water drunk in Winter, is


reckoned by the Natives to be much more
wholeſome than in the Spring, for in the
latter it caufeth the Diarrhea and Difenteria.

THE diſeaſes that prevail here are, Fevers,


Diarhea and Difenteria, ftitch Coughs , Sciatica,
Megrim, the ſmall Pox which commonly come
once in 17 Years time, the ordinary cure for
feavers is letting Blood plentifully. The Di
arhea is cured by drinking Aqua vitæ and the
Stronger the better : the Fleſh and Liver of Seals
are uſed as above mentioned both for the Dia-
rhea and Difenteria , milk wherein hectick Stone
has been quehed , being frequently drunk
is likewife a good remedie for the two Difea-
fes laſt mentioned.
THE
n
76 A Deſcriptio of the
THE Kernel of the black Nut found
on the Shore, being beat to powder and
drunk in milk or Aqua Vita, is reckoned a good
remedy for the faid two difenfes, Stitches are
cured fometimes by Letting blood.

THEIR common cure for Coughs is Bro-


than formerly mentioned : The cafe of
the Carrara foul with the fat being powde
red a little , and applyed to the Hip- bone
is an approved remedy for the Sciatica. Since
the great Change of the Seafons, which of
late Years is become more piercing and cold,
by which the growth of the Corn, both in the
Spring and Summer Seaſons are retarded ;
there are fome difeafes diſcovered , which were
not known here before, viz. a ſpoted Fever,
which is commonly cured by drinking a glass
of Brandy or Aqua Vita liberally when the
diſeaſe ſeizes them, and uſing it till the Spots
appear outwardly. This Fever was brought
hither by a Stranger from the Ifland of Mull,
who infected theſe other Iſlands ; when the
Fever is violent the Spots appear the ad Day,
but commonly on the 4th Day, and then the
Difeafe comes to a Crifis the 7th Day, but if
the Spots don't appear the 4th. Day, the Di-
feaſe is reckoned mortal, yet it hath not prov'd
fo here, tho' it has carried off ſeveral in the
other adjacent Southern Islands. The vulgar
accuſtomed to apply flamula Jovis, for evacuat-
ing Noxious Humours fuch as Cauſe the Head-
ach
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 77

ach, and pains in the Arms or Leggs, and they


find great Advantage by it, the way of ufing it
is thus, they take a quantity of it, bruised
ſmall and put into a Patella and apply it fo
to the Skin a little below the place affected,
in a ſmall time it raiſes a Blifter about the
bigness of an Egg, which when broke, voids
all the matter that is in it, then the Skin
fills and fwells twice again and as often voids
this matter ; they ufe the Sea- plant Li
narich to cure the Wound, and it proves ef-
fectual for this purpoſe, and alſo for the Me-
grim and Burning.

THE Broth of a Lamb in which the Plants


Shunnish and Alexander have been boiled is
found by Experience to be good againſt Con-
Sumptions. The green Sea-plant Linarich is by
them applyed to the Temples and Forehead
to dry up Defluctions, and alfo for drawing
up the Tonfels. Neil Mackdonald in the Ifland
Heiskir is ſubject to the falling of the Ton-
fels at every change of the Moon, and they
continue only for the first Quarter, this infir-
mity hath continued with him all his days,
yet he is now 72 Years of Age.

JOHN FAKE who lives in Babble in


the Parish of Kilmoor, alias St. Maries is con-
ftantly troubled with a great Sneezing a day
or two before Rain, and if the Sneezing be
more than ufual, the Rain is faid to be the
greater ; Therefore he is called the Rain Al-
manack. He has had this faculty, thefe 9
Years paft. THERE
78 A Defcription of the

THERE is a Houfe in the Village called


Ard-Rim-boothin in the Parish of St. Maries,
and the houſe Cock there never crows
from the tenth of September till the middle of
March. This was told me two Years ago, and
fince confirmed to me by the Natives, and
the preſent Minifter of the Pariſh.

THE Inhabitants of this land are gene-

rally well Proportioned , of an ordinary Sta-


ture and a good Complection, healthful, and
fome of 'em come to a great Age, feveral of
my Acquaintance arrived at the Age of 90,
and upwards, John Mackdonald of Griminis
was of this Number, ad died lately in the
93d Year of his Age. Donald Roy who lived
in the Ifle of Sand , and died lately in
the hundreth Year of his Age, was able to
travel and manage his Affairs till about two
Years before his Death . They are a very
Charitable and Hofpitable People as is any
where to be found. There was never an Inn
here till of late, and now there is but one ,
which is not at all frequented for eating, bur
only for drinking, for the Natives by their
hofpitality render this new invented Houfe in
a manner ufelefs, the great Produce of Barley
draws many Strangers to this Ifland , with a
defign to procure as much of this Grain as
they can, which they get of the Inhabitants
gratisonly for asking, as they do Horfes,
Cows, Sheep, Wool, &c. I was told fome
Months
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 79

Months before my Laft arrival there, that


there had been two Men in that Place at one
time to ask Corn gratis, and every one of
thefe had fome one, fome two, and others
thrée Attendants, and during their abode
there, were all entertained gratis, no one re-
turning empty.

THIS a great, yet voluntary Tax, which


has continued for many Ages, but the late
general ſcarcity, has given them an occafion
to alter this Cuftom, by making Acts a-
gainft liberality, except to Poor Natives, and
Objects of Charity.

THE Natives are much addicted to riding,


the plainneſs of the Country difpofing both
Men and Horfes to it. They obferve an
Anniverſary Cavalcade on Michaelmas Day, and
then all ranks of both Sexes appear on Horſe-
back: The place for this Randezvous is a
large Piece of firm fandy Ground on the Sea-
fhore, and there they have Horse racing for
fmall prizes, for which they contend eagerly.
There is an Antient Cuſtom, by which it is
lawful for any of the Inhabitants to fteal his
Neighbours Horſe the Night before the race,
and ride him, all next Day, provided he de-
liver him fafe and found to the Owner after
the race ; the manner of running is, by a
few . Young Men, who uſe neither Sadles,
nor Bridles, except two fmall Ropes made
of
80 A Deſcription of the

ofBent inſtead of a Bridle nor any fort of Spurs,


but their bare heels, and when they begin
the race they throw thefe Ropes on their
Horfes Necks, and drive them on vigorously
with a piece of long Sea-ware in each hand,
inſtead of a Whip, and this is dry'd, in the
Sun feveral Months before for that purpoſe.
This is a happy opportunity for the Vulgar,
who have few occafions for meeting, except
on Sundays, the Men have their Sweet-hearts
behind them on Horſe-back, and give and
receiving mutual Prefents, the Men preſent the
Women with Knives and Purſes, the Women
preſent the Men with a pair of fine Gar-
ters of divers Colours, they give them like-
wife a quantity of Wild Carrots. This Ifle
belongs in Property to Sir. Donald- Mack-Do-
nald of Sleat ; he and all the Inhabitants
are Proteftants , one only excepted, they ob-
ferve Christmass, Goodfriday, and St. Michaels
Day.

The
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 81

The Isle Benbecula, it's Diftance, Length,


Bay, Mold, Grain, Fish , Cattle, Fresh

Lakes, Forts, a Stone Vault, Nunnery,

Proprietors

HE Ifland of Benbecula lyes


T directly to the South of Northvilt
from which, it is two Miles diftant,the Ground
being all plain and fandy between them, ha
ving two little Rivers or Channels no higher
than ones Knee at a Tide of Ebb, this Paffage is
overflow'd by the Sea every Tide of Flood ,
nor is it Navigable except by Boats. There
are ſeveral ſmall Iſlands on the Eaft-fide of
this Channel. This Ifland is three Miles in
length from South to North, and three from
East to West, and ten Miles in Compass. The
Eaft-fide is covered with Heath, it hath a Bay
called Miskway, in which fmall Veffels do
fometimes harbour, and now and then Her-
rings are taken in it.

THE Mountain Benbecula, from which-


the Ifle hath its Name, lies in the middle of
it ;the Eastern part of this Ifland is all a-
rable, but the Soil fandy, the Mold is the
fame with that of Northvilt, and affords the,
fame Corn, Fish, Cattle, Amphibia, &c. There
is no Venemous Creature here. It hath feve
F ral
82
A Deſcription of the
ral Freſh- water Lakes well ſtock'd with Fiſh ,
and Fowl. There are ſome ruines of old Forts
to be ſeen in the fmall Iſlands, in the Lakes
and on the Plain.

THERE are alfo fome fmall Chapels


here, one of them at Bael-nin-Killach, id
est, Nuns Town, for there were Nunnerys
here in time of Popery , the Natives have
lately diſcovered a Stone Vault on the Eaſt-
fide the Town, in which there are abundance
of fmall Bones which have occafioned many
uncertain Conjectures, fome faid they were
the Bones of Birds, others judged them_ra-
ther to be the Bones of Pigmies, the Pro-
prietor ofthe Town enquiring Sir. Normand
Mackleods Opinion concerning them, he told
him that the matter was plain as he fuppofed,
and that they must be the Bones of Infants
born by the Nuns there. This was very dif
agreeable to the Roman Catholick Inhabitants
who laugh'd it over. But in the mean time
the Natives out of Zeal took care to fhut up
the Vault, that no acceſs can be had to it
fince, fo that it would feem they believe what
Sir Normand faid or elſe fear'd that it might
gain Credit by fuch as afterward had Occafion
to fee them. This Ifland belongs properly to
Kanal Mackdonald of Benbecula, who,
with all the inhabitants are Roman Catho-
licks, and I remember I have ſeen an old Lay
Capuchin here, called in the Language Brahir
bocht,
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 83
bocht, that is, Poor Brother, which is litterally
true, for he anſwers this Character, having
nothing but whar is given him, he holds him-
felf fully fatisfied with Food and Rayment,
and lives in as great fimplicity as any of his
Order, his Diet is very mean, and he drinks
only Fair Water ; his habit is no lefs Morti-
fying than that of his Brethren elſewhere, he
wears a fhort Coat which comes no further
than his Middle, with narrow Sleeves like a
Waftcoat, he wears a Plad above it girt a-
bout the Middle which reaches to his Knee ;
the Plade is faſtened on his Breaſt with a
Wooden Pin, his Neck bare, and his feet of
ten fo to, he wears a Hat for Ornament, and
the ftring about it is a bit of a Fiſhers Line
made of Horſes Hair, this Plad he wears
inſtead of a Gown worn by thoſe of his Or-
der in other Countrys, I told him he wanted
the Flaxen Girdle that Men of his Order
uſually wear, he anſwered me that he wore a
Leather one, which was the fame thing up-
on the matter, if he is fpoke to when at
Meat, he anſwers again , which is contrary to
the Cuſtom of his Order ; this Poor Man
frequently diverts himſelf with Angling of
Trouts, he lyes upon Straw, and had no
Bell (as others have) to call him to his Devo-
stion, but only his Conſcience, as he told me.

THE fpeckled Salmons, defcribed in K'irit


are very plentifull on the Weft fide of this
Iſland.
F 2 THE
84 A Deſcription of the


THE Island of South-uilt lyes directly
two Miles to the South of Benbecula, be-
ing in length one and twenty Miles, and three
in breadth, and in fome places four, the Eaft-
fide is Mountainous on the Coaſt , and heathy
for the most part, the Weft - fide is plain ara-
ble Ground, the Soil is generally fandy, yield-
ing a good produce of Barley, Oats, and
Rye,in proportion to that of N. tft : And has
the fame fort of Cattle ; both East and West-
fides of this Ifland abound in Freſh-water
Lakes, which afford Trouts and Eels, befides
variety of Land and Sea-fowls, the arable
Land is much damnified by the overflowing of
thefeLakes in divers Places which they have not
hitherto been able to drain , tho the thing be
practicable. Several Lakes have old Forts built
upon the fmall Iſlands in the middle of them.
About four Miles on the South-east end of this
Inland ,
is Loch-eynozd, it reaches feveral
Miles Westward, having a narrow Entry which
makes a violent.Current, and within this en-
try there's a Rock, upon which there was fta-
ved to pieces a Frigat of Cromwels, which he
fent there to fubdue the Natives. Amber-
greaſe hath been found by ſeveral of the Inha-
bitants on the West Coaſt of this Ifland, and
they fold it at Glasgow at a very low rate,
not knowing the value of it at firſt, but when
they knew it, they raiſed the price to the o-
ther extream . Upon a Thaw after a long
Froft,
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 85

Froft, the South- eaft Winds caft many dead


Fiſhes on the fhoar. The Inhabitants are ge-
nerally of the fame Nature and Complection
with thoſe of the next adjacent Northern
Iſlands, they wear the fame Habit, and uſe the
fame Diet ; one of the Natives is very Famous
for his great Age, being as it's faid, an hun-
dred and thirty years old, and retains his Ap-
petite and Underſtanding ; he can walk
abroad, and did Labour with his hands as

ufually, ' till within theſe three years, and for


any thing I know, is yet living.

THERE are feveral big Kairnes of Stone


on the Eaft fide this Ifland, and the Vulgar
retain the ancient Cuſtom of making a Reli-
gious Tour round them on Sundays, and Ho-
lidays.

THERE is a Valley between two Moun


tains on the eaſt fide, called Glenflyte, which
affords good Pafturage. The Natives who
Farm it, come thither with their Cattle in the
Summer time, and are poffeffed with a firm
belief that this Valley is haunted by Spirits,
who by the Inhabitants are called the great
Men ; and that whatſoever Man or Woman
enters the Valley without making firſt an en-
tire refignation of themſelves to the Conduct
of the great Men, will infallibly grow Mad.
The words by which he or she gives up him-
felf to theſe Mens Conduct, are comprehen-

1 F 3 ced
1
86 A Deſcription of the
ded in three Sentences,wherein the Glen is twice
named ; to which they add, that it is Inhabi-
ted by theſe great Men, and that fuch as enter
depend on their protection. I told the Na-
tives that this was a piece of filly Credulity as
ever was impofed upon the moſt ignorant Ages,
and that their imaginary Protectors deferved
no fuch Invocation. They anfwer'd, That
there had hapened a late inftance of a
Woman who went into that Glen without re-
figning her felf to the Conduct of theſe Men
and immediately after fhe became Mad , which
confirmed them in their unreaſonable fancy.

THE People refiding here in Summer ſay,


they fometimes hear a loud noife in the Air,
like Men fpeaking : I enquired if their Prieſt
had Preach'd or Argu'd againſt this fuperfti-
tious Cuſtom ? They told me he knew better
things, and would not be guilty of diffwading
Men from doing their Duty, which they
doubted not he judged this to be , and that
they refolv'd to perfift in the belief of it, until
they found better Motives to the contrary,
than hath been fhewed them hitherto. The
Proteftant Miniſter hath often endeavour'd to
undeceive them, but in vain, becauſe of an
Implicit Faith they have in their Prieſt ; and
when the Topicks of Perfwafion , tho' never fo
urgent, comes from one they believe to be an
Heretick, there is little hope of fuccefs.

THE
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland , & 87

THE Iland Erifca, about a Mile in


length, and three in Circumference, is partly
heathy, and partly arable, and yields a good
produce. The innerfide hath a wide Anchorage,
there is excellent Cod and Ling in it, the Na-
tives begin to manage it better, but not to
that advantage it is capable of. The fmall
Ifland near it was overgrown with Heath, and
about three years ago the ground threw up all
that Heath from the very root, ſo that there is
not now one fhrub of it in all this Ifland.
Such as have occafion to Travel by Land be-
tween Southuift, and Benbecula , or Benbecula
and Northuift, had need of a Guide to direct
them, and to obferve the Tide when low, and

alſo for croffing the Channel at the right Fords,


elfe they cannot pafs without danger.

THERE are ſome houfes under ground in


this Iſland, and they are in all points like
thoſe deſcribed in Northuift ; one of them is in
the South Ferry- Town, oppofite to Barray.
The Cattle produced here, be like thoſe of
Northuift, and there are above three hundred
Deer in this Ifland ; it was believ'd generally,
that no Venomous Creature was here , yet
of late fome little Vipers have been ſeen in
the South end of the Iſland .

THE Natives fpeak the Irish Tongue more


perfectly here, than in most of the other
F4 Mlands ;
88 A Deſcription of the

Iflands ; partly becauſe ofthe remoteneſs, and


the fmall number of thoſe that ſpeak English,
and partly becauſe fome of ' em are Scholars,
and verfed in the Irish Language. They wear
the fame habit with the Neighbouring Iflan-
ders.

THE more Ancient People continue to


wear the old Drefs, eſpecially Women ; they
are a hoſpitable well- meaning People, but the
misfortune of their education difpofes them to
Uncharitableneſs , and rigid thoughts of 7 their
Proteftant Neighbours ; tho' at the fame time
they find it convenient to make Alliances with
them . The Churches here are St. Columba,

and St. Maries in High-more, the moſt Centri .


cal place in the Iſland. St. Jeremy's Chappels,
St. Peter's, St. Bannan, St. Michael, St. Don
nan.
THERE is a Stone fet up near a Mile to
the S. of Columbus's Church, about eight foot
high, and two foot broad, it is called by the
Natives the Bowing- Stone ; for when the Inha-
bitants had the first fight of the Church, they
fet up this Stone, and there bowed and ſaid
the Lord's Prayer. There was a Buckle of
Gold found in Einort ground fome twenty
years ago, which was about the value of
feven Guineas.

AS I came from Southuift, I perceived about


fixty Horſemen riding along the Sands, direct
ing
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 89

ing their Courſe for the Eaſt-ſea, and being be-


tween me and the Sun, they made a great
figure on the plain Sands ; we diſcover'd them
to be Natives of Southuift, for they alighted
from their Horſes, and went to gather Cockles
in the fands, which are exceeding plentiful
there. This Ifland is the Property of Allan
Macdonald of Moydart, head of the Tribe of
Mackdonald called , Clanronalds, one of the
Chief Families defcended of Mackdonald, who
was Lord and King of the Iſlands. He, and
all the Inhabitants are Papifts , except fixty ,
who are Proteſtants ; the Papiſts obſerve all
the Feſtivals of their Church , they have a ge-
neral Cavalcade on All Saints Day, and then
they bake St. Michael's Cake at Night, and the
Family and Strangers eat it at Supper.

FERGUS BEATON hath the following An-


cient Iriſh Manufcripts in the Irish Character ;
to wit, A.Vicenna, A.Verroes , Joannes de Vigo,
Bernardus Gordonus, and feveral Volumes of
Hypocrates.

THE Iſland of Barray lies about two


Leagues and a half to the South Weft of the
Hland Southuift, it is five Miles in length, and
three in breadth, being in all reſpects like the
Inlands lying directly North from it. The Eaſt
fide is Rocky, and the Weft Arable Ground ,
and yields a good produce of the fame Graine
that both Uifts do : They ufe likewiſe the
fame
90 A Deſcription of the

fame way for enriching their Land with Sea-


Ware. There is plenty of Cod and Ling got
on the Eaft and South fides of this lfland ; fe-
veral fmall Ships from Orkney come hither in
Summer, and afterwarward return Loaden
with Cod, and Ling.

THERE is a fafe Harbour on the North


Eaft fide of Barray, where there is great
plenty of Fish.

THE Rivers on the Eaſt fide afford Salmons


fome of which are fpeckled like thefe men-
tioned in Northuift, but they are more fuccefs-
ful here in Catching them. The Natives go
with with three feveral Herring-Nets, and lay
them croſs -ways in the River where the Sal-
mon are moft numerous, and betwixt them
and the Sea. Theſe Salmon at the fight or
fhadow of the People make towards the Sea,
and feeling the Net from the furface to the
ground, jump over the firft, then the ſecond,
but being weakned , cannot get over the third
Net, and fo are catched, They delight to
leap above Water, and ſwim on the furface
one of the Natives told me that he killed a

Salmon with a Gun, as jumping above Wa-


ter.

THEY inform'd me alſo that many Barrels


of them might be taken in the River above-
mention'd, if there was any encouragement for
cureing
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland , &c. 91
cureing and tranſporting them. There are

feveral old Forts to be ſeen here, in form like


thoſe in the other Iflands. In the South end
of this Ifland there is an Orchard which pro-
duces Trees, but few ofthem bear Fruit, in
regard of their nearness to the Sea ; all forts of
Roots and Plants grow plentifully in it ; fome
years ago Tobacco did grow here, being of
all Plants the most grateful to the Natives, for
the Iſlanders love it mightily.

THE little Iſland Kifmul,lies about a quarter


of a Mile from the fouth of this Ifle, it is the
Seat of Mackneil of Barra, there is a ſtone
Wall round it two ftories high, reaching the
Sea, and within the Wall there is an old Tower
and an Hall, with other Houfes about it.
There is a little Magazine in the Tower, to
which no Stranger has acceſs. I faw the Of
ficer call'd the Cockman, and an old Cock he is,
when I bid him Ferry me over the Water to the
Ifland, he told me that he was but an inferior
Officer, his buſineſs being to attend in the
Tower ; but if (fays he ) the Constable, who
then ſtood on the Wall will give you acceſs,
I'll Ferry you over. I defir'd him to procure
me the Conſtables permiffion, and I would
reward him; but having waited fome hours
for the Conftable's Anfwer, and not receiving

any, I was oblig'd to return without feeing this


famous Fort. Mackneill and his Lady being

abfent was the cauſe of this difficulty, and of


my
92 A Deſcription of the
my not feeing the Place : I was told fome
weeks after that the Conftable was very appre-
henfive offome Deſign I might have in viewing
the Fort, and thereby to expofe it to the Con-
queſt of a Foreign Power, of which I ſuppos'd
there was no great cauſe of fear. The Na-

tives told me there is a Well in the Village


Tangftill, the Water of which being boiled,
grows thick like puddle. There is another
Well not far from Tangftill, which the Inhabi-
tants fay in a fertile year throws up many
grains of Barley in July, and Auguft . And
they fay that the Well of Kilbar throws up
embrioes of Cockles, but I could not diſcern
any in the Rivulet, the Air being at that time
foggy. The Church in this Inland is called
Kilbarr, i. e. St. Barr's Church. There is a

little Chappel by it, in which Mackneil, and


thoſe defcended of his Family are uſually in-
terred. The Natives have St. Barr's Wooden
Image ftanding on the Altar covered with
Linen in form ofa fhirt, all their greateſt Affe-
verations are by this Saint. I came very early
in the Morn ing with an inten tion to fee this
ed
Image, but was diſappoint , for the Natives
prevented me, by carrying it away, left I
might take occafion to ridicule their fuperfti-
tion , as fome Proteftants have done formerly ,
and when I was gone, it was again expoſed on
the Altar. They have feveral Traditions con-
cerning this great Saint. There is a Chappel
(about half a mile on the fouth fide of the
Hill
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 93
Hill near St. Bart's Church) where I had oc
cafion to get an account of a Tradition con-
cerning this Saint, which was thus. The In-

habitants having begun to build the Church;


which they dedicated to him, they laid this
Wooden Image within it, but it was invifibly
transported (as they fay) to the Place where
the Church now stands, and found there every
morning. This Miraculous Conveyance is the
Reaſon they give for defifting to Work where
they firſt began. I told my Informer that
this extraordinary Motive was fufficient to
determine the Cafe, if true, but ask'd his
Pardon to diffent from him, for I had not
Faith enough to believe this Miracle ; at
which he was furpriz'd, telling me in the
mean time, That this Tradition hath been
faithfully conveyed by the Prieſts and Natives
fucceffively to this day.. The fouthern Iſlands
are, ( 1 ) Muldonih, about a Mile in Cir-
cumference, it is high in the middle, cover'd
over with Heath and Graſs , and is the only
Forreſt here for maintaining the Deer, being
commonly about feventy or eighty in number.
(2) The Ifland Sandreray, lies foutherly
of Barra, from which it is feparated by a
narrow Channel, and is three Miles in Cir-
cumference, having a Mountain in the mid-
dle, it is defign'd for Pafturage and Cultiva-
tion. On the ſouth fide there is an Harbour
convenient for fmall Veffels, that " come

yearly here to Fish for Cod, and Ling, which


abound
94 Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c.

abound on the Coaſt of this Iſland. ( 3 ) The


Inland Sandreray, two Miles in Circumfe-
rence, is Fruitful in Corn and Grafs, and fc-
parated by a narrow Channel from Vatter-

fay.

(4) TO the ſouth of theſe lies the Inland


Bernera, about two Miles in Circumfe-
rence ; it excels other Iſlands of the fame ex-
tent for Cultivation , and Fiſhing. The Na-
tives never go a Fiſhing while Mackneil or his
Steward is in the Ifland, left feeing their
plenty of Fish, perhaps they might take occa-
fion to raiſe their Rents. There is an old
Fort in this Ifland, having a vacuity round
the Walls , divided in little Apartments ; the
Natives endure a great fatigue in Manuring
their Ground with Sea-ware, which they carry
in Ropes upon their backs over high Rocks ;
they likewife faften a Cow to a Stake, and
fpread a quantity of Sand on the ground,
upon which the Cows dung falls, and this
they mingle together, and lay it on the a-
table Land. They take great numbers of
Sea- Fowls from the adjacent Rocks, and falt
them with the ashes of burnt feasware in
Cows hides, which preferves them from pu
trefaction.

THERE is a fort of Stone in this Iſland,


with which the Natives frequently rub their
Breafts by way of prevention, and ſay it is a
good
A Deſcription of the 95
good preſervative for Health, this is all the
Medicine they uſe, Providence is very favou-
rable to them, in granting them a good State
of Health, fince they have no Phyſician a-
mong them.

THE Inhabitants are very Hofpitable, and


have a Cuſtom, that when any Strangers from
the Northern Iſlands refort thither, the Na-
tives immediately after their landing oblige
them to eat, even tho' they fhould have libe-
rally eat and drunk but an Hour before their
landing there. And this Meal they call Biey-
ta'v, id eft Ocean Meat, for they prefume that
the ſharp Air of the Ocean, which indeed
furrounds them muſt needs give them a good
Appetite And whatever number of Strangers
come there, or of whatſoever Quality or Sex,
they are regularly lodged according to Antient
Cuſtom, that is, one only in a Family, by
which Cuſtom a Man cannot lodge with his
own Wife, while in this Ifland, Mr. John
Campbell the prefent Miniſter of Harries,
told me that his Father being then Parfon of
Harries and Minister of Barray (for the
Natives at that time were Proteftants ) carried
his Wife along with him , and refided in this
Ifland for fome time, and they difpofed of him,is
Wife and Servants in manner above mentioned,
and ſuppoſe Mackneil of Barra and his La-
dy fhould go thither, he would be obliged to
2
comply with this Ancient Cuſtom.

THERE
n
96 A Deſcriptio of the

THERE is a Large Root grows among the


Rocks of this Ifland lately difcovered, the
Natives call it Curran-Petris , of a whitiſh
colour, and upwards of two foot in Length
where the Ground is deep , and in ſhape and
fize like a large Carret, where the Ground is
not fo deep, it grows much thicker, but for-
ter, the top of it is like that of a Carret.

THE Rock Linmull about half a Mile in

Circumference, is indifferently high , and al-


moſt Inacceffible, except in on Place, and that
is by climbing which is very Difficult, this
Rock abounds with Sea-fowls that build and
hatch here in Summer, fuch as the Gillemot,
Coulter-neb, Puffin, &c. The chief Climber
is commonly called Gingich, and this Name
imports, a Big Man having Strength and Cou-
rage proportionable, when they approach the
Rock with the Boat Mr. Gingich jumps out
firft upon a Stone on the Rock-fide, and then
by the affiftance of a Rope of Horſe hair, he
draws his Fellows out of the Boat upon this
high Rock, and draws the reft up after him
with the Rope, till they all arive at the Top,
where they purchaſe a Confiderable Quantity
of Fowls and Eggs ; upon their return to the
Boat, this Gringich runs a great hazzard by
jumping firft into the Boat again, where the
violent Sea continually rages, having but
a few Fowls more than his Fellows, befides
.
a
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 97

a greater efteem to compenfate his Courage-


When a Tenants Wife in this or the adjacent
Inlands Dies, he then addreffes himself to
Mackneill of Barra, repreſenting his Lofs,
and at the fame time defires that he would
be pleaſed to recommend a Wife to him, with-
out which he cannot manage his Affairs, nor
beget followers to Mackneill which would
prove a publick Lofs tohim ; upon this Repre-
fentation Mackneill finds out a fuitable Match
for him, and the Womans Name being told
him,immediately he goes to her carrying with
him a Bottle of Strong- waters for their Enter-
tainment at Marriage which is then Confum
mated:

WHEN a Tennant Dyes, the Widdow ad-


dreffeth her ſelf to Mackneill in the fame man-

ner, who likewife provides her with a Hus-


band, and they are married without any fur-
J
ther Courtship. There is 4 in this Inland an
Altar dedicated to St. Christopher at which the
Natives perform their Devotion . There is a
Stone fet up here, about feven foot high, and
when the Inhabitants come near it, they take
a Rèligious turn round it.

IF a Tenant chance to lofe his Milk Cows


by the Severity of the Seafon, or any other
Misfortune. In this Cafe Mackneill of Barra,
fupplies him with the like Number that he
loft.

1
WHEN
n
98 A Descriptio of the

WHEN any of theſe Tenants are ſo far ad-


vanced in Years as they are uncapable to till
the Ground, Mackneill takes fuch Old Men in-
to his own Family and Maintains them all
their Life after. The Natives obferve that if
fixSheep are put a grafing in the little fflandab
bay, five ofthem ftill appear Fat, but the fixth
a Poor Skeleton, but any Number in this
Ifland not exceeding five are always very Fat.
There is a little lfland not far from this called
Micklay of the fame extent as abbay, and
hath the fame way of feeding of Sheep. Theſe
little Iflands afford excellent Hawks.

THE Iles above mentioned lying near to


the South of Barray are commonly called the
Bishops Ifles , becauſe they held of the Bifhop,
fome Ifles, ly on the East and North ofBare
ray, as, fiaray, Mellitay, Buya, Major
and Minor, Lingay , Fuda, they afford Paftu-
rage and are Commodions for Fiſhing, and the
latter being above two Miles in Circumference,
is fertile in Corn and Grafs. There is a good
anchoring Place next to the Ifle on the North
Eaſt fide.

THE Steward of the Leffer and Southern


Ilands is reckoned a Great Man here, in re-
gard of the Perquifits due to him fuch as a
particular Share of all the Lands, Corn, But-
ter, Cheefe, Fish &c. which theſe Iſlands pro-
duce
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 99

duce, the Meaſure of Barley paid him by cach


Family yearly is an Omer as they call it con-
taining about two Pecks.

THERE is an inferiour Officer who alfo


hath a right to a fhare of all the fame Pro-
ducts Next to theſe comes in courſe thoſe of
the loweſt Poſts, fuch as the Cockman and
Porter, each of whom hath his reſpective due
which is punctually paid.

Mackneil of Barra and all his Followers

áre Roman Catholick, one only excepted , viz.


Murdock Mackneil, and it may perhaps be
thought no ſmall Vertue in him to adhere to
the Proteftant Communion confidering the
diſadvantages he labours under by the want of
his Chief's Favour, which is much leflened, for
being a Heretick, as they call him . All the
Inhabitants obferve the Anniverſary of St. Barr
being the 27th of September, it is perfor-
med riding on Horfe-back, and the folemni-
ty is concluded by three turns round St. Barrs
Church : This brings into my Mind a Story
which was told me concerning a Foreign
Prieſt and the entertainment he met with af-
ter his arrival there fome Years ago, as fol
lows. This Prieſt hapned to land here upon
the very Day and at the particular Hour of
this folemnity, which was the more accepta-
ble to the Inhabitants , who then defired him
to preach a Commemoration Sermon to the
G 2 Honour
100 A Deſcription of the
Honour of their Patron St. Barr, according
to the Antient Cuftom of the Place ; at this
the Priest was furprifed, he never having
heard of St. Barr before that Day, and
therefore knowing nothing of his Vertues
could fay nothing concerning him , but
told them that if a Sermon to the honour
of St. Paul or St. Peter could pleaſe them,
they might have it inftantly, this Anſwer of
his was fo difagreeable to them, that they
plainly told him he could be no true Prieſt,
if he had no heard of St. Barr ; for the Pope
himſelf had heard of, him, but this would
not perfuade the Prieft fo that they parted
much diflatisfied with one another. They
have likewife a general Cavalcade on St. Mi
chaels Day in Bilbar Village, and do then
alfo take a turn round their Church : Every
Family as ſoon as the folemnity is ended, is
accuſtomed to bake St. Michaels Cake as above
defcrib'd, and all Strangers together with
thofe of the Family muft eat the Bread that
Night.

THIS fland and the adjacent leffer Iſlands be-


long in property toMackneil being the 34 of that
Name by Lineal defcent, that has poffeffed this
Ifland ifthe prefent Genealogers may be credited:
He holds his Lands in vaflallage of Sr. Donald
Mc. Donald of Slate to whom he pays 40 l
per Annum and a Hawk if required, and is ob-
Jig'd to furnish him a certain Number ofMen
upon extraordinary Occafions.
The
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 101

The Ancient and Modern Cuftoms of the


Inhabitants of the Western Islands of
Scotland .

VERY Heir, or young Chieftain of a


E Tribe, was oblig'd in Honour to give a
Publick Specimen of his Valour, before he was
owned and declared Governour or Leader of
his People, who obey'd and follow'd him upon
all Occafions.

THIS Chieftain was uſually attended with a


Retinue of Young Men of Quality, who had
not before hand given any proof of their Valour,
and were ambitious of fuch an opportunity to
ſignalize themſelves.

IT was uſual for the Captain to lead them ,


to make a deſperate Incurfion upon fome
Neighbour or other that they were in fewd
with, and they were obliged to bring by open
force the Cattle they found in the Lands they
attacked, or to die in the attempt .

AFTER the performance of this Atchieve


ment, the young Chieftain was ever after re-
puted Valiant, and worthy of Government,
and fuch as were of his Retinue acquired the
like reputation . This Cuſtom being recipro-
cally ufed among them, was not reputed
G 3 Robbery ;
102 A Deſcription of the
Robbery ; for the Damage which one Tribe
fuftained by this Effay of the Chieftain of
another, was repaired when their Chieftain
came in his turn to make his Specimen ; but I
have not heard an inftance of this practiſe for
thefe fixty years paſt.

THE Formalities obferved at the entrance


of theſe Chieftains upon the Government of
their Clans, were as follow ;

A heap of ftones was erected in form of a


Pyramid, on the top of which the young
Chieftain was placed, his Friends and Fol-
lowers ftanding in a Circle round about him,
his elevation fignifying his Authority over
them, and their ſtanding below, their fubje-
ction to him. One of his principal Friends
deliver'd into his hands the Sword wore by
his Father, and there was a white Rod deli
vered to him likewife at the fame time.

IMMEDIATELY after the Chief Druid


(or Orator) ftood clofe to the Pyramid, and
pronounc'd a Rhetorical Panegyrick, fetting
forth the ancient Pedigree, Valour, and Libe-
rality of the Family, as Incentives to the
young Chieftain, and fit for his imita
tion.

IT was their Cuftom, when any Chieftain


marched upon a Military Expedition, to draw
fome
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 10

fome blood from the firft Animal that chanced


to meet them upon the Enemies ground, and
thereafter to ſprinkle fome of it upon their
Colours ; this they reckon'd as a good Omen
of future Succeſs.

THEY had their fixed Officers who were


ready to attend them upon all occafions, whi
ther Military or Civil ; fome Families conti-
nue them from Father to Son, particularly
Sir Donald Macdonald has his principal Stan-
dard Bearer, and Quartermaster .
The latter
has a right to all the hides of Cows killed
upon any of the occafions mention'd above,
and this I have feen exacted punctually, tho'
the Officer had no Charter for the fame, but
only Cuſtom.

THEY had a conftant Sentinel on the top


of their Houſes called Gockmin, or in the En-

glish Tongue Cockman, who was obliged to


Watch Day and Night, and at the approach
of any body, to ask Who comes there ? This
Officer is continu'd in Barra ſtill, and has the
Perquifites due to his Place paid him duly at
two Terms in the year,

THERE was a competent number of young


Gentlemen called Luchktach, or Guard de

Corps, who always attended the Chieftain at


home, and abroad ; they were well Train'd in
managing the Sword, and Target, in Wreft-
G 4 ling,
104 A Defcription of the

ling, Swimming, Jumping, Dancing, Shoot-


ing with Bows and Arrows, and were ſtout
Seamen.

EVERY Chieftain had a bold Armour-

Bearer, whoſe Buſineſs was always to attend


the Perfon of his Mafter Night and Day to
prevent any furprize, and this Man was
called Galloglach ; he had likewife a double
portion of Meat affigned him at every Meal .
The meaſure of Meat ufually given him , is
called to this day Bieyfir, that is , a Man's
portion, meaning thereby an extraordinary
Man, whofe Strength and Courage diftin-
guiſhed him from the common fort.

BEFORE they engaged the Enemy in Bat-


tle, the Chief Druid harangu'd the Army to
excite their Courage ; he was placed on an
Eminence, from whence he Addreſſed himſelf
to all of ' em ftanding about him, putting
them in mind of what great things were per-
form'd by the Valour of their Anceſtors,
rais'd their hopes with the Noble Rewards of
Honour and Victory, and diſpell'd their fears
by all the Topicks that Natural Courage
could fuggeft. After this Harangue, the
Army gave a general fhout, and then charged
the Enemy floutly. This in the ancient Lan-
guage was called Brofnichiy Kah, i . e. an In-
centive to War. This Cuſtom of fhouting
aloud, is believed to have taken its riſe from
an
3
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 105

an inftinct of Nature, it being attributed to


moft Nations that have been of a Martial
Genius. As by Homer to the Trojans, by
Tacitus to the Germans, by Livy to the Gauls.
Every great Family in the Ifles had a Chief
Druid who foretold future Events, and deci-
ded all Caufes Civil and Ecclefiaftical. It is
reported of them that they wrought in the
Night time, and reſted all Day. Cafar fays
they Worshipped a Deity under the Name of
Taramis, or Taran, which in Welsh fignifies
Thunder, and in the ancient Language of the
Highlanders, Torin fignifies Thunder alfo.

ANOTHER God of the Britains was


Belus, or Belinus, which feems to have been
the Affyrian God Bel, or Belus ; and probably
from this Pagan Deity comes the Scots term
of Beltin, the Day of May, having its
first rife from the Cuſtom practifed by the
Druids in the Ifles, of extinguiſhing all the
Fires in the Parish until the Tithes were paid ;
and upon payment of them, the Fires were
kindled in each Family, and never till then.
In thoſe Days Malefactors were burnt between
two Fires ; hence when they would expreſs a
Man to be in a great ftrait, they fay, he is
between two Fires ofBel, which in their Lan-
guage they exprefs thus. Edir da hin Veaul

} or Bel. Some object that the Druids could


not be in the Ifles, becaufe no Oaks grow
there. To which I anſwer, That in thoſe
Days
106 A Deſcription of the

Days Oaks did grow there, and to this day


there be Oaks growing in fome of them ,
particularly in Sleat, the most Southern part
of the Ifle of Skie. The Houſes Named after
thofe Druids, fhall be deſcribed elſewhere.

The manner of Drinking uſed by the Chief


Men of the Ifles, is called in their Language
Streak, i. e. a round, for the Company fate
in a Circle, the Cup-bearer filled the Drink
round to them , and all was drank out,
whatever the Liquor was, whether ſtrong, or
weak ; they continued drinking ſometimes
twenty four, fometimes forty eight hours . It
was reckon'd a piece of Manhood to drink
until they became drunk, and there were two
Men with a Barrow attending punctually on
fuch Occafions. They ftood at the door un
til fome became drunk, and they carried them
upon the Barrow to Bed, and returned again
to their Poft as long as any continued freſh,
and fo carried off the whole Company one by
one as they became drunk. Several of my
Acquaintance have been Witneſſes to this Cu-

ftom of drinking, but it is now aboliſh'd ,

AMONG Perfons of diftinction it was


reckon'd an affront put upon any Company,
to broach a piece ofWine, Ale, or Aqua Vitæ,
and not to fee it all drank out at one Meeting.
if any Man chance to go out from the Com-
pany, tho' but for a few Minutes, he is obli-
ged
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 107
ged upon his return, and before he take his
Seat, to make an Apology for his abfence
in Rhyme, which if he cannot perform , he is
liable to fuch a ſhare of the Reckoning as the
Company thinks fit to impofe ; which Cuſtom
obtains in many Places ftill, and is called
Beanchiy Bard, which in their Language fig .
nifies the Poets congratulating the Com-
pany.

IT hath been an ancient Cuſtom in theſe


Ifles, and ſtill continues, when any number
of Men retire into an Houfe, either to Dif-
courfe of ferious Buſineſs, or to pass fome
time in drinking ; upon thefe occafions the
door ofthe Houfe ftands open , and a Rod is
put cross the fame, which is underſtood to
be a fign to all Perfons without diſtinction
not to approach ; and if any fhould be fo rude
as to take up this Rod, and come in uncalled,
he is fure to be no welcome Gueft ; for this
is accounted fuch an affront to the Company,
that they are bound in honour to refent it ;
and the Perfon offending, may come to have
his Head broken, if he do not meet with a
harſher reception .

T
THE Chieftain is ufually attended with a
numerous Retinue when he goes a Hunting
the Deer, this being his firft Specimen of
1 Manly Exercife : all his Cloaths, Arms, and
Hunting equipage is upon his return from the
Hills,
1
108 A Deſcription of the

Hills, given to the Forreſter, according to


Cuſtom.

EVERY Family had commonly two Stew


ards, which in their Language were called
Marifchall Taeh ; the firft of theſe ferv'd al-
ways at home, and was oblig'd to be well
verfed in the Pedigree of all the Tribes in the
Ifles, and in the Highlands of Scotland ; for it
was his Province to affign every Man at
Table his Seat according to his Quality, and
this was done without one word ſpeaking,
only by drawing a Score with a white Rod
which this Mariſchall had in his hand, before
the Perfon he was bid to fit down, and this
was neceſſary to prevent diforder and conten-
tion ; and tho' the Marifchall might fome-
times be miſtaken, the Maſter of the Family
incurr'd no cenfure by fuch an eſcape ; but
this Cuſtom has been laid afide of late. They
had alfo Cup-bearers, who always filled and
carried the Cup round the Company, and he
himſelf drank offthe first draught. They had .
likewife Purſe-maſters,who kept their Money ;
both thefe Officers had an hereditary right
to their Office in Writing, and each of them.
had a Town and Land for his Service ; fome
of thofe Rights I have feen fairly written on
good Parchment.

BESIDES the ordinary Rent paid by the


Tenant to his Mafter, if a Cow brought
3 forth
Weſtern Iflands of Scotland, &c
. 109
forth two Calves at a time, which indeed is
extraordinary, or an Ewe two Lambs , which
is frequent,the Tenant paid to the Mafter
one ofthe Calves, or Lambs ; and the Maſter
on his part was obliged, if any of his Tenants
Wives bore Twins, to take one of them, and
breed him in his own Family. I have known
a Gentleman who had fixteen of thefe Twin's
in his Family at a time.

THEIR ancient Leagues of Friendſhip were


ratified , by drinking a drop of each others
Blood, which was commonly drawn out of
"
the little Finger. This was Religioufly cb-
ferv'd as a facred Bond ; and if any Perfon
after fuch an Alliance happened to violate the
fame, he was from that time reputed un-
worthy of all honeft Mens Converfation.
Before Money became current, the Chieftains
in the Ifles beftowed the Cows head, feet,
and all the intrails upon their Dependants a
fuch as the Physician, Orator , Poet, Bard,
Muficians, &c. and the fame was divided
thus The Smith had the head, the Piper had
the, c.

IT was an ancient Cuſtom among the


Inlanders to hang a He Goat to the Boats Maft,
hoping thereby to procure a favourable Wind ,
but this is not practifed at prefent ; tho' I am
told it hath been done once by fome of the
Vulgar within thefe 13 years laſt paſt.
THEY
110 Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &r.

THEY had an Univerſal Cuſtom, of pow-

ring a Cows Milk upon a little Hill, or big


Stone where the Spirit call'd Browny was be-
lieved to lodge, this Spirit always appeared in
the fhape of a Tall Man having very long
brown Hair : There was fcarce any the leaft
Village in which this Superftitious Cuſtom did
not prevail, I enquired the reafon of it from
ſeveral well meaning Women, who, until of
late had practifed it, and they told me that it
had been tranſmitted to them by their An-
ceftors fuccesfully, who believed it was at
tended with good Fortune, but the moſt Cre-
dulous of the Vulgar had now laid it afide. It
was an ordinary thing among the over-curi-
ous to confult an invifible Oracle, concerning
the fate of Families, and Battles & c, This
was performed three different Ways, the first
was by a Company of Men, one of whom be-
ing detached by Lot, was afterwards carried
to a River, which was the Boundary between
two Villages, four of the Company laid hold
on him , and having fhut his Eyes, they took
him by the Legs and Arms, and then toffing
him to and again, ftruck his Hipps with force
against the Bank, one of them cry'd out
what is it you have got here, another an-
fwers a Log of Birch- wood, the other crys
again, let his inviſible Friends appear from all
quarters and let them relieve him by giving an
Anſwer to our prefent demands ; and in a few
Minutes
A Deſcription of the III

Minutes after, a Number of little Creatures


came from the Sea who answered the Queſtion,
and diſappeared fuddenly , the Man was
then fet at liberty, and they all returned home,
to take their Meaſures according to the pre-
diction of their falfe Prophets, but the poor
deluded Fools were abuſed for the Anfwer
was ftill Ambiguous. This was always pra-
Atifed in the Night, and may litterally be
called the Works of Darkneſs .

I had an account from the moft Intelli-


gent and Judicious Men in the Ie of Skie ,
that about 62 Years ago, the Oracle was
thus confulted only once, and that was in
the Pariſh of Kilmartin, on the Eaft fide, by
a Wicked and Mifchievous race of People,
who are now extinguiſh'd, both Root and
Branch .

THE fecond way of confulting the Oracle


was, by a Party of Men, who first retired to
Solitary Places, remote from any Houſe, and
there they fingled out one of their Number, and
wrap'd him in a big Cows Hide which they
folded about him , his whole Body was co-
vered with it except his Head, and fo left in
this Pofture all night until his invifible Friends
reliey'd him, by giving a proper Anſwer to the
Queſtion in hand, which he received, as he
fancied, from feveral Perfons that he found a-
bout him all that time, his conforts return'd to
him
112 A Deſcription of the

him at break of Day, and then he communi-


cated his News to them, which often proved
fatal to thofe concerned in fuch unwarrantable
enquiries.

THERE was a third way of confulting,


which was a Confirmation of the fecond a-
bovementioned . The fame Company who

put the Man into the Hide, took a live Cat


and put him on a Spit, one of the Number was
imployed to turn the Spit, and one of his Con-
forts enquired at him, what are you doing ?
He answered, I roaſt this Cat, until his Friends
anſwer the Queſtion, which must be the
fame that was propofed by the Man fhut up in
the Hide, and afterwards a very big Cat comes
attended by a Number of leffer Cats, defiring
to relieve the Cat turned upon the Spit, and
then anſwers the Queſtion : If this Anſwer
prove the fame that was given to the Man in
the Hide, then it was taken as a Confirmati-
on of the other which in this cafe was belie-
ved Infallible,

Mr. Alexander Cooper prefent Minister of


North- viest told me that one John Erach in the
Iſle of Lewis affured him it was his fate to
have been led by his Curiofity with fome who
confulted this Oracle, and that he was a
Night within the Hide as above mentioned ,
during which time he felt and heard fuch ter-
rible things that he could not express them,
the
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 113

the Impreffion it made on him was fuch as


could never go off, and he ſaid that for a
thouſand Worlds he would never again be
concern'd in the like performance, for this had
diſordered him to a high degree ; he confeffed.
it ingenuouſly and with an Air of great Re-
morfe, and feem'd to be very Penitent under at
juſt ſenſe of ſo great a Crime, he declared this
about five Years fince, and is ftill living in the
Lewis for any thing I know. The Inhabitants
here did alſo make uſe of a Fire called Tin-Egin,
(i. e .) a forced Fire, or Fire of neceffity, which
they uſed as an Antidote against the Plague
or Murrain in Cattle ; and it was performed
thus, all the Fires in the Pariſh were extin-

guiſhed,and then eighty one married Men being


thought the neceffary number for effecting
this defign, took two great Planks of Wood,
and nine of'em were imploy'd by turns vvho by
their repeated Efforts rubb'd one of the Planks
againſt the other until the heat thereof produ-
ced Fire, and from this forced Fire, each Fa-
mily is fupplyed withne w Fire, which is no foo-
ner kindled,than aPotfull ofWater is quickly fet
on it, and afterwards fprinkled upon the Peo-
ple infected with the Plague, or upon the Cat-
tle that have the Murrain, and this they all
fay they find fuccesful by Experience , it was
practis'd in the main Land oppofite to the
South of Skie, within theſe thirty Years.

H THEY
114 4 Defcription of the

THEY preferve their Boundaries from being


lyable to any debates by their Succeffors, thus,
they lay a quantity of the Afhes of burnt wood
in the Ground, and put big Stones above the
fame : And for conveying the knowledge of
this to Pofterity, they carry fome Boys from
both Villages next the Boundary, and there
whip ' em foundly, which they will be fure
to remember and tell it to their Children . A
debate having rifen betwixt the Village of
Die and Groban in Skie, they found Aſhes
as above mentioned under a Stone which de-
cided the Controverfy. It was an Ancient Cu
ftom in the Iflands, that a Man fhould take a

Maid to his Wife and keep her the space of


a Year without marrying her, and if the
pleafed him all the while, he married her
at the end of the Year, and legitimated theſe
Children, but if he did not love Her, he re-
turn'd her to her Parents and her Portion alfo,
and if there happened to be any Children, they
were kept by the Father, but this unreaſonable
Cuftom was long ago brought in diſuſe.

IT is common in thefe Iflands, when a Te-


nant Dies , for the Mafter to have his choice of
all the Horfes which belonged to the Deceas'd,
and this was called the Eachfuin Horizeilda, (i.
e.) a Lord's Gift, for the firſt uſe of it was
from a Gift of a Horſe granted by all the Sub-
jects in Scotland for relieving King
from
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 115

from his Impriſonment in England. There was


another Duty payable by all the Tenants, to
their Chief, tho' they did not live upon
his Lands and this is called Calpich, there
was a ſtanding Law for it alfo, called Calpich
Law, and I am informed that this is exacted
by fome in the main Land to this Day.

WOMEN were anciently denyed the uſe of


Writing in the Iflands to prevent Love intri
gues, their Parents believ'd , that Nature was
too skilful in that matter, and needed not the
help of Education, and by Confequence that
Writing would be of Dangerous Confequence
to the weaker Sex.

THE Orators, in their Language call'd If


Dane, were in high cfteem both in thefe Iflands,
and the Continent ,until within theſe fortyYears,
they fate always among the Nobles and
Chiefs of Families in the Streak or Circle:Their
Houſes and little Villages were Sanctuaries,
as well as Churches, and they took place be
fore Doctors of Phyfick.. The Orators after
the Druids were extinct , were brought in to

preſerve the Gencaogly of Families, and to re-


peat the fame at every fucceffion of a Chief,
and upon the occafion of Marriages and Births

they made Epithalamiums and Penegyricks , which


the Poet or Bard pronounc'd. The Orators by
the force of their Eloquence , had a powerful
Afcendant over the greateſt Men in their
H 2 time,
116 ADeſcription of the
time, for if any Orator did but ask the Ha-
bit, Arms, Horſe, or any other being belong-
ing to the greateſt Man in theſe Iſlands, it was
readily granted them, fometimes out of re-
fpect, and fometimes for fear of being exclai
med againſt by a Satyr, which in thoſe days
was reckoned a great diſhonour , but theſe
Gentlemen becoming infolent, loft ever fince
both the Profit, and Eſteem which was former-
ly due to their Character ; for neither their Pa-
negyricks nor Satyrs are regarded to what they
have been, and they are now allowed but a
fmall Sallary. I must not omit to relate their
way of Study, which is very fingular, they
fhut their Doors and Windows for a days time,
and lie on their Backs, with a Stone upon their
Belly, and Plaids about their Heads, and their
Eyes being covered, they pump their Brains
Rhetorical Encomium or Panegerick , and indeed
they furnish fuch a Stile from this dark Cell,

as is underſtood by very few, and ifthey pur


chaſe a couple of Horfes as the Reward of
their Meditation , they think they have done a
great matter. The Poet, or Bard , had a Ti-
tle to the Bridegrooms upper Garb, that is ,
the Plade and Bonnet, but now he is fatisfied

with what the Bridegroom pleaſes to give


him on fuch occaſions .

THERE was an ancient Cuſtom in the


Inland of Lewis, to make a fiery Circle a-
bout the Houſes, Corn, Cattle, &c. belong-
ing
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 117

ing to each particular Family ; a Man carried


fire in his right hand and went round, and it
was called Defil, from the right hand, which
in the ancient Language is called Defs ; an in-
ſtance of this Round was performed in the
Village Shadir in Lewis, about fixteen years
ago (as I was told) but it proved fatal to the
Practifer, called Mac-Callum ; for after he had
carefully performed this Round, that very
Night following he and his Family were fadly
furpriz'd , and all his Houfes,Corn,Cattle, &c.
were confumed with fire. This fuperftitious

Cuſtom is quite aboliſhed now, for there has


not been above this one inftance of it in forty
years paſt.

THERE is another way of the Defil, or


carrying Fire round about Women before they
are Churched, after Child-bearing, and it
is us'd likewiſe about Children until they be
Chriftened ; both which are performed in the
Morning, and at Night. This is only pra-
ctifed now by fome of the ancient Midwives ;
I enquired their Reaſons for this Cuſtom,
which I told them was altogether unlawful ;
this difobliged them mightily, infomuch that
they would give me no fatisfaction . But
others that were of a more agreeable temper,
told me the fire-round was an effectual means

to preferve both the Mother and the Infant


from the power of evil Spirits, who are ready
at fuch times to do mifchief, and fometimes
H 3
Carry
ption
118 A Deſcri of the
carry away the Infant ; and when they get
them once in their poffeffion, return them
poor meager Skeletons ; and theſe Infants are
aid to have voracious Appetites, conftantly
craving for meat. In this cafe it was uſual
with thoſe who believed that their Children
were thus taken away, to dig a Grave in the
Fields upon Quarter Day, and there to lay
the Fairy Skeleton till next Morning ; at
which time the Parents went to the Place,

where they doubted not to find their own


Child inſtead of this Skeleton . Some of the
poorer fort of People in thefe Iflands retain
the Cuftom of performing theſe Rounds Sun-
ways, about the Perfons of their Benefactors
three times, when they bless them, and wiſh
good fuccefs to all their Enterprizes . Some
are very careful when they fer out to Sea,
that the Boat be first rowed about Sun- ways,

and if this be neglected, they are afraid their


Voyage may prove unfortunate . I had this
Ceremony paid me. (when in the land of
Ila) by a poor Woman after I had given her
an Alms : I defired her to let alone that
Complement, for I did not care for it, but
The infifted to make these three ordi-

nary turns, and then Pray'd that God and


Mac Charmig, the Patron Saint of that Ifland,
might bleſs and profper me in all my deſigns
and affairs.

I at-
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &:: 119

I attempted twice to go from Ila to Collonfay,


and at both times they row'd about theBoat Sun-
ways, tho' I forbid them to do it, and by a con-
trary Wind, the Boat and thofe in it were forc'd
back. I took Boat again a third time from Jura
to Collonfay, and at the fame time forbid
them to row about their Boat, which they
obeyed, and then we Landed fafely at Collon-
Say without any ill adventure, which fome of
the Crew did not believe poſſible, for want of
the Round ; but this one Inftance hath con-
vinced them of the vanity of this Superftitious
Ceremony. Another ancient Cuſtom ob
ferv'd on the fecond of February, which
the Papiſts there yet retain, is this. The
Miftrifs and Servants of each Family take a
Sheaf of Oats, and drefs it up in Womens
Apparel, put it in a large Basket, and lay a
Wooden Club by it, and this they call Brids-
bed, and then the Miftrifs and Servants cry
three times Briid is come, Briid is welcome.
This they do juft before going to Bed, and
when they rife in the Morning, they look
among the afhes, expecting to fee the impref-
fion of Bride Club there, which if they do,
they reckon it a true prefage of a good Crop,
and profperous Year, and the contrary they
take as an ill Omen.

IT has been an ancient Cuſtom amongſt


the Natives, and now only used by fome old
H 4 People,
120 A Deſcription of the
People, to Swear by their Chief, or Laird's
Hand.

WHEN a Debate arifes between two Per-


fons, if one of them affert the Matter by
your Fathers hand, they reckon it a great in-
dignity ; but if they go a degree higher, and
out of fpite fay, by your Father and Grandfa-
ther's hand, the next word is commonly ac-
companied with a blow.

IT is a receiv'd Opinion in thefe Iflands,


as well as in the neighbouring part of the main
Land, That Women by a Charm, or ſome
other fecret way , are able to convey the in-
creaſe of their Neighbours Cows Milk to their
own ufe, and that the Milk fo charmed, doth
not produce the ordinary quantity of Butter ;
and the Curds made of that Milk are ſo tough,
that it cannot be made fo firm as other Cheeſe,

and is alſo much lighter in weight. The


Butter fo taken away, and joyned to the
Charmer's Butter, is evidently difcernable by
a Mark of feparation , viz. The diverfity of
colours, that which is charmed being ftill
paler than that part of the Butter which hath
not been charmed ; and if Butter having theſe
Marks be found with a fufpected Woman, ſhe
is preſently faid to be guilty. Their uſual
way of recovering this Lofs, is to take a little
of the Rennet from all the fufpected Perfons,
and to put it in an egg-fhell full of Milk, and
when
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, c. 121

when that from the Charmer is mingled with


it, it prefently curdles, and not before.

THIS was afferted to me by the generality


of the moſt Judicious People in theſe Iſlands ;
fome of them having, as they told me, come
to the knowledge of it to their coft. Some
Women make uſe of the root of Groundfel as
an Amulet againſt fuch Charms, by putting it
among their Cream .

BOTH Men and Women in thoſe Iſlands,


and in the Neibouring Main Land, affirm that
the increaſe of Milk is likewiſe taken away
by Trouts, if it happen that the Dishes or
Pales wherein the Milk is kept, be washed in
the Rivulets where Trouts are. And the way
to recover this damage, is by taking a live
Trout, and pouring Milk into its mouth,
which they fay dorh prefently curdle, if it
was taken away by Trouts, but otherwiſe
they ſay it is not.

THEY affirm likewife, that fome Women


have an Art to take away the Milk of
Nurfes.

I faw four Women whofe Milk were tried,


that one might be chofen for a Nurſe ; and
the Woman pitch'd upon, was after three days
Suckling, depriv'd of her Milk, whereupon
the was fent away, and another put in her
Place ;
123 A Deſcription of the

Place ; and on the third day after, fhe that


was firſt chofen recover'd her Milk again.
This was concluded to be the effects of Witch-
craft byfome of her Neighbours.

THEY alſo ſay that fome have an Art of


taking away the increaſe of Malt, and that
the Drink made of this Malt, hath neither
life nor good tafte in it ; and on the contrary,
the Charmer hath very good . Ale all this
time. A Gentleman of my acquaintance , for
the ſpace of a year, could not have a drop
of good Ale in his Houſe ; and having
complained of it to all that converſed with
him , he was at laft adviſed to get fome Yeft
from every Alehoufe in the Parish , and having
got a little from one particular Man, he put
it among his Wort, which became as good
Ale as could be drank, and fo defeated the
Charm. After which the Gentleman in whole
Land this Man lived, Banished him thirty fix
Miles from thence.

THEY fay there be Women who have an


Art of taking a Moat out of ones Eye, tho' at
fome Miles diftance from the Party griev'd,
and this is the only Charm theſe Women
will avouch themſelves to underſtand , as fome
of them told me, and feveral of theſe Men
C
out of whofe Eyes Moats were then taken
confirm'd the truth of it to me.

ALL
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 123

ALL theſe Iſlanders, and ſeveral thouſands


on the neighbouring Continent are of Opinion
that fome particular Perfons have an evil Eye,
which affects Children and Cattle, this they
fay occafions frequent Mifchances, and fome-
times Death, I could name fome who are be-
lieved to have this unhappy faculty, tho' at
the fame time void of any ill deſign : This
hath been an ancient opinion as appears from
that ofthe Poet.

Nefcio quis teneros Oculus mihi faffinat Agnos.

COURTS
(
124 A Defcription of the

COURTS of Judicatory.

T the firft Plantatation of thefe Ifles, all


AMatters were Managed by the fole Au-
thority of the Heads of Tribes, called in the
Irish Thiarna, which was the fame with Ty
rannus, and now it fignifies Lord or Chief ;
there being no Standard of Equity or Justice
but what flowed from them. And when their
Numbers increaſed, they erected Courts called
Mode, and in the Engliſh Baron-Courts.

THE Proprietor has the Nomination of the


Members of this Court, he himſelf is Preſident
ofit, and in his abfence, his Bayliff ; the Mi-
nifter of the Parish is always a Member of it.
There are no Attorneys to plead the Cauſe of
either Party, for both Men and Women re-
preſent their respective Cauſes, and there is
always a fpeedy decifion, if the Parties have
their Witneffes prefent, &c.

THERE is a peremptory Sentence paſſes in


Court for ready Payment, and if the Party
againſt whom Judgment is given prove refra-
&
tory, the other may fend the common Officer,
who has power to Diftrain, and at the fame
time to exact a Fine of 20 l. Scots, for the uſe
of the Proprietor, and about two Marks for
himſelf.
THE
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c
. 125

THE Heads of Tribes had their Offenſive


and Defenfive Leagues, called Bonds of Man-
drate, and Manrent in the Lowlands, by
which each Party was oblig❜d to affiſt one ano-
ther upon all extraordinary emergencies. And
tho' the differences between thoſe Chieftains
involved ſeveral Confederates in a Civil War,
yet they oblig'd themſelves by the Bond
mention'd above , to continue ftedfaft in their
Duty to their Sovereign.

WHEN the Proprietor gives a Farm to his


Tenant, whether for one or more Years, it is
cuſtomary to give the Tenant a Stick of
Wood, and fome Straw in his hand ; this is
immediately return'd by the Tenant again to
his Mafter, and then both Parties are as
much oblig'd to perform their respective
Conditions, as if they had Sign'd a Leaſe, or
any other Deed.

CHURCH
126 Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c.

CHURCH Difcipline.

VERY Parish in the Weſtern Iſles has a


E Church Judicature, called the Confiftory,
or Kirk-Seffion, where the Miniſter prefides ,
and a competent number of Laymen call'd
Elders meet with him they take cogni-
fance of Scandals, cenfure faulty Perfons, and
with that ftrictness , as to give an Oath to
thoſe who are ſuſpected of Adultery, or For
nication, for which they are to be proceeded
againſt to the Cuſtom of the
according to
Country. They meet after Divine Service,
the Chief Heretor of the Parish is preſent, to
concurr with them, and enforce their Acts by
his Authority, which is irrefiftable within the
bounds of his Jurisdiction.

A
A Deſcription of the 127

A Form of Prayer us'd by many of the


Iflanders at Sea, after the Sails are

boifted .

This Form is contain'd in the Irish Li-


zurgy Compos'd by Mr. John Kerfwell,
afterwards Biſhop of Argile, Printed
in the Year 1566, and Dedicated to
the Earl of Argile ; I have fet down the
Original for the fatisfaction of ſuch
Readers as underſtand it.

Odh Bendaighto luingo ag dul dionfa


Modidhe na fairrge.
Abrah aon da chaeh Marfo.
Da.
An Stioradoir.

Beanighidh ar Long.
Fregra Cháich.
Go mbeandaighe Dia Athair i.
An Stioradoir.
Beanoaidhidh ar Long. 3

Fregra.
Go mbeandaighe Jofa Criofd i.
An Stioradoir.
Beanoaidhidh ar Long.

Fregra.
Go mbeandaighe an Shiorad Naomh i.
An Stioradoir.
Cred
128 A Deſcription of the
Cred is egail Libh is Dhia Athair libh.
Fregra.
Ni heagal en ni.
An Stioradoir.
Cred is egil libh is Dia an Mac Libh.
Fregra.
Ni heagal en ni.
An Stioradoir.

Cred is eagail Libh is Dia an fbiorad Naomh


libh.
Fregra.
Ni beagail en ni.
An Stioradoir.

Dia Athair Vile Chumhachtach ar Grádh a

Mhic Jofa Criefd, le Comb fhurtach an Spioraid


Naomh, An taon Dhia tug Cland Ifrael trid an
Muir ruaigh go mirbhuileach, agas tug Jonas
ad tir ambroind an Mhil mhoie, & tug Pol
Eafpol, agas a long gon, foirind o an fadh
iomarcach, agas o dheartan dominde dar Ja
bradhne, agas dar fenadh, agas dar mbean
drghadh, agas dar m breith le fen, agas le

foinind, agas le folas do chum chnain, agas


chalaidh do reir a theile diadha fein.
Ar ni iarrmoid air ag radha.
Ar Nathairne ata ar Neamh, &c.
Abradh Cach Vile.
Bionb Amhluidh.

The
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 129

The manner of Bleffing the Ship


when they put to Sea.

HE Steerf- Manſays,
T Let us Bless our Ship :
The Anfwer by all the Crew,
God the Father Bless her.
Steerf Man.
Let us Bless our Ship.
Anſwer,
Jefus Chrift Blefs Her.
Steerf
-Man.
Let us Bless our Ship.
Anſwer.
The Holy Ghost Bless her.
Steerf-Man
What do you fear fince God the Father is
with you ?
Anſwer.
We do not fear any thing.
Steerf-Man.

What do you fear fince God the Son is with


you ?
Anſwer.
We do not fear any thing.
Steerf-Man.
What are you afraid of fence God the Holy
Ghoft is with you ?
Anſwer.
We do not fear any thing.
Steerf-
130 A Deſcription of the

Steerf-Man.

God the Father Almighty, for the love of


Jefus Chrift his Son, by the comfort of the Holy
Ghost , the One God, who miraculously brought the
Children of Ifrael through the Red- Sea, and
brought Jonas to Land out of the Belly of the
Whale, and the Apostle St. Paul, and his Ship
to fafety, from the troubled raging Sea, and
from the violence of a tempestuous Storm, deli-
ver, fanctifie, blefs and conduct us peaceably,
calmly, and comfortably through the Sea to our
Harbour, according to his Divine Will ; which
we beg, faying, Our Father, &c.

A Defcrip-
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 131

A Defcription of the 1fle of SKIE .

KIE (in the ancient Language Skianach


SKIE
i. e. wing'd ;) is fo called becauſe the two
oppofite Northern Promontories Vaternis lying
Northwest and Troternis North- east , refem-
ble two Wings. This Ifle lies for the moſt
part half way in Western-Sea between the
main Land on the Eaft, the Shire of Roffe,
and the Western Ifle of Lewis &c.

THE Ifle is very high Land, as well on the


Coaſt, as higher up in the Country, and there
are feven high Mountains near one another,
almoſt in the center of the Ifle,

THIS Iſland is forty Miles in length from


South to North, and in fome Places twenty and
in others thirty in breadth, the whole may a-
mount to a hundred Miles in Circumference .

THE Channel between the South of Skie


and oppofite main Land (which is part of the
Shire of Inderness ) is not above three Leagues
in breadth, and were the Ferry-boat croſſeth
to Glenelg, it's fo narrow, that one may call
for the Ferry-boat and be eaſily heard on the
other fide, this Ifle is a part of the Sheriffdom
Innerness, and formerly of the Dioceſs of the
Ifles, which was united to that of Argyle ;
a. S. E. Moon cauſeth a Spring Tide here.
1 2 THE
132 A Deſcription of the

THE Mold is generally Black, efpecially in


the Mountains , but there is fome of a red Co-
lour, in which Iron is found.

THE arable Land is for the moft part Black,


yet affords Clay, of different Colours, as
White, Red, and Blue ; the Rivulet at Dun-
vegan Church, and that of Nisboſt hath Ful-
lers-earth.

THE Village Borve, and Glenmore afford


two very fine forts of Earth, the one Red, the
other White, and they both feel, and cut like
melted Tallow. There are other Places that
afford plenty of very fine white Marle which
cuts like Butter, it abounds moſt in Corchatta-
chan, where an Experiment has been made of
its Vertue ; a quantity of it being ſpread on a
floping Hill, covered with Heath, foon after
all the Heath fell to the Ground, as if it had
been cut with a Knife, they afterwards fowed
Barley on the Ground, which tho' it grew but
unequally, fome places producing no Grain, be-
caufe perhaps it was unequally laid on, yet the
produce was thirty five fold, and many ftalks
carried five Ears of Barley. This account was
given me by the prefent poffeffor of the Ground
Lachlin- Mac-Kinon.

THERE
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 133

THERE are Marcafites black and White re-


femblingSilver- Ore near the Village Sartle;there
likewife in the fame place feveral Stones which
in bignefs, ſhape, &c. refemble Nutmegs , and
many Rivulets here afford variegated Stones of
all Colours. The Apples -glen near Loch-fallart
has Aggat growing in it of different Sizes and
Colours, fome are Green on the out-fide, fome
are of a pale Skie colour, and they all firike
fire as well as Flint, I have one of them by me
which for fhape and bignefs is proper for a
Sword Handle, Stones of a Purple Colour
flow down the Rivulets here after great Rains .

THERE is Chryſtal in feveral Places


of this Iſland as at Portry, Quillin, and Mingnis,
its of different Sizes and Colours, fome
is fexangular, as that of Quilling, and Mingnis,
and there is ſome in Minrinefs, of a Purple Co-
lour, the Village Torrin in Strath, affords a
great deal of good White and Black Marble,
I have ſeen Cups made of the White which is
very fine. There are large Quarries of Free-
ftone in feveral parts of this Ifle, as at Snifneſs
in Strath, in the South of Borrie, and Iſle of
Rofay. There is abundance of Lime-ſtone in
Strath and Trotterness , fome Banks of Clay
on the Eaſt Coaſt are overflow'd by the Tide,
and in thefe grow the Lapis Ceranius, or Cern-
na Amonis of different Shapes. Some of the
breadth of a Crown-piece bearing an Impreffi-
13 on
134 A Deſcription of the

on reſembling the Sun. Some are as big as a


Man's Finger in form of a Semicircle, and fur-
rowed on the Inner fide, others are lefs and
have furrows of a Yellow Colour on both
fides. Theſe Stones are by the Natives called
Cramp-ftones, becauſe as they fay they cure the
Cramp in Cows, by washing the part affected
with Water in which this Stone has been

fteep'd for fome Hours . The Velumnites, grows


likewife in theſe Banks of Clay, fome of ' em
are twelve Inches long, and tapering towards
one end, the Natives call them Bat Stones, be
cauſe they believe them to cure the Horfes of
the Worms which occafion that Diftemper, by
giving them Water to drink in which this
Stone has been Steept for fome Hours.

THIS Stone grows likewife in the middle


of a very hard grey Stone on the fhore. There
is a Black Stone in the furface of the Rock on
Rig fhore, which reſembles Goats Horns.

THE Lapis Hecticus, or white Hedic


Stone abounds here both in the Land and Wa-
ter, the Natives ufe this Stone as a remedy a-
gainst the Difenteria and Diarrhea ; they make
them red-hot in the Fire, and then quenche
them in Milk,and fome in Water, which they
drink with good fuccefs. They use this Stone
after the fame manner for Confumptions, and
they likewife quench thefe Stones in Water,
with which they bathe their feet and hands
THE
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 135

THE Stones on which the Scurf called Cor-


kir grows, are to be had in many Places on the
Coaft and in the Hills, this Scurf dyes a
pretty Crimſon Colour ; firft well dryed
and then ground to Powder, after which it's
fteep'd in Urine, the Veffel being well fecured
from Air, and in three Weeks its ready to boyl
with the Yarn that is to be Dyed . The Na-
tives obſerve the decreaſe of the Moon for
fcraping this Scurf from the Stone, and ſay its
ripeſt in August.

THERE are many White Scurfs on Stone,


fomewhat like thefe on which the Corkir grovvs,
but the Corkir is White and thinner than any
other that reſembles it.

THERE is another coarſer Scurf called


Croftil, its of a dark colour, and only dyes
a Philamot.

THE Rocks in the Village Ord, have


much Talk grovving on them like the Ve-
nice-talk.

THIS Ifle is naturally vvell provided vvith


variety of excellent Bays and Harbours. In
the South of it lies the Peninſula called Oronfa,
alias Inland Dierman, it has an excellent Place
for Anchorage on the Eaft fide, and is gene-
rally known by moft Scots-Sea-men. About a
A
I 4 League
136 A Deſcription of the
Leage more Easterly on the fame Coaſt there
is a ſmall Rock vifible only at halfLow water,
but may be avoided by fteering through the
middle of the Channel . About a League more
Eafterly on the fame Coaft, there is an Ancho-
rage pretty near the Shore, within less than a
Mile further is the narrow Sound called the

Kyle, in order to pass which its abfolutely ne-


ceffary to have the Tide of Flood, for fuch as
are Northward bound, elfe they will be ob-
liged to retire in diforder , becauſe of the vio-
lence of the Current ; for no Wind is able to
carry a Veflel againſt it. The quite contrary
Courſe is to be obferved by Veffels coming
from the North. A Mile due Eaft from the
Kyle there is a big Rock on the South fide, the
point of Land on Skie fide called Kaillach,which
is overflow'd by the Tide of Flood, a Veffel
may go near its outfide ; above a Mile fur-
ther due North, there are two Rocks in the paf-
fage through the Kyle they are on the Caſtle
fide,and may be avoided by keeping the middle
of the Channel , about cight Miles more to the
Northward or the East of Skie, there is fecure
anchorage between the fle Scalpa and Skie in
the middle of the Cannel , but one must not
come to it by the South Entry of Salpa, and
in coming between Rafay and this Ifle, there
are Rocks without the Entry, which may be
avoided beſt, by having a Pilot of the Coun-
try, more to the North is Lockfligichan, on
the Coaft of Skie, where is good anchorage
the
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 137

the Entry is not deep enough for Veffels of a-


ny burden except at high Water, but three
Miles further North lyes Loch-port ry a capaci-
ous and convenient Harbour of above a Mile
in length .

THE Island Tulm which is within half a


Mile of the Northermoft point of Skie, has
an Harbour on the infide. The entrance be-
tween the Ifle, and Duntulm Caftle is the beſt.

ON the West of the fame Wing of Skie,


and about five Miles more Southerly , lics Loch-
uge, about a Mile in Length, and a very good
Harbour for Veffels of the greatest burden,
about two Miles on this Coaft further South

is Loch-fnijfort, it's three Miles in length, and


half a Mile in breadth, it is free from Rocks,
and has convenient Anchorage .

ON the Weft-fide the Promontory at the


Mouth of Lock fnijfort, lies Loch-arniſort, be-
ing about two Miles in length, and half a Mile
in breadth ; there are two fmall fles in the

mouth of the Entry, and a Rock near the West-


fide, a little within the Entry.

SOME five Miles to the Weft of Arnifort lies


Loch-fallart, the Entry is between Paternis-
head on the Eaft fide, and Duntegon-head on the
Weft-fide, the Loch isfix Miles in length, and
about a League in breadth for ſome Miles. It
hath
138 A Deſcription of the

hath the Ifland Jla about the middle, on the


fide. There is a Rock between the North-
Eaft -
end and theLand and there Veffels may anchor
between the N. E. fide ofthe Ifle and the Land,
there is alſo good anchorage near Duntegon
Caſtle, two Miles further to the Southward.

LOCH-BRAKADIL, lies two Miles South


of Loch-fallart, it is ſeven Miles in length, and
has feveral good anchoring Places, on the North-
fide the Entry lies two Rocks called Mack-lleods
Maidens. About three Miles South-west is
Loch-einard a Mile in length, it has a Rock in
the Entry, and is not vifible but at an Ebb.

ABOUT two Miles to the Eastward, there


is an anchoring place for Barks between Skie
and the Ifle S08.

ABOUT a League further Eaft lies Loch-


fla-
pan, and Loch-effort, the first reaches about four
Miles to the North, and the ſecond about fix
Miles to the East.

THERE are feveral Mountains in the Inle

of confiderable height and extent, as Quillin,


Scornifiey, Bein-store , Bein- vore-fcowe, Bein-chro,
Bein- nin, Kaillach, fome of them are covered
with Snow on the top in Summer, others are
almoſt quite covered with Sand in the top, which
is much waſh'd down with the great Rains :
All theſe Mountains abound with Heath, and

Grafs, which ferve as good Paſtorage for black


attle and Sheep . THE
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 139

THE Quillin which exceeds any of thoſe


Hills in height, is faid to be the cauſe of much
Rain, by breaking the Clouds that hover about
it,which quickly after pour down inRain upon
the quarter on which theWind then blows.There
is a high ridge of one continued Mountain
of confiderable height, and fifteen Miles in
length, running along the middle of the Eaft
wing of Skie called Troterness, and that part
above the Sea is faced with a ſteep Rock.

THE arable Ground is generally along the


Coaft, and in the Valleys between the Moun-
cains having always a River running in the
middle ; the foil is very grateful to the Hus-
band- man : I have been fhew'd feveral Places
that had not been till'd for ſeven Years before,
which yielded a good product of Oats by Dig-
ing,the theGround was not dung'd,particularly
near the Village Kilmartin, which the Natives
told me had not been dung'd thefe forty Years
laft. Several pieces of Ground yield twenty,and
fome thirty fold when dung'd with Sea- ware.
I had an account that a ſmall tract of Ground
in the Village Skerybreck, yielded an hundred
fold of Barley.

THE Iſle of Altig, which is generally co-


vered with Heath, being manur'd with Sea-
ware, the Owner fow'd Barley in the Ground,
and it yielded a very good Product, many
Stalks
140 A Deſcription of the

Stalks had five Ears growing upon them. In


plentiful Years Skie furniſhes the oppofite con-
tinent with Oats and Barley. The way of til-
lage here is after the fame manner that is al-
ready defcrib'd in the Ifles of Lewis , &c : And
diging doth always produce a better Increaſe
here than plowing.

ALL the Mountains in this Ifle are plenti-


fully furniſhed with Varietie ofexcellentSprings
and Fountains , fome of them have Rivulets
with Water-mills upon them. The moſt ce-
lebrated Well in Skie, is Loch fint Well, it is
much frequented by Strangers, as well as by
the Inhabitants of the Ifle, who generally be-
lieve it to be a Specifick for feveral Diſeaſes,
fuch as Stitches, Head-aches, Stone, Confumpti-
ons, Megrim. Several of the common People
oblige themſelves by a Vow to come to this
Well, and make the ordinary Touer about it,
call'd Defil, which is performed thus ; they
move thrice round the Well proceeding Sun-
ways from East to West and fo on, this is done
after drinking of the Water, and when one
goes away from the Well, it's a never failing
custom, to leave fome fmall offering on the
Stone which covers the Well, there are nine
Springs ifluing out of the Hill above the Well,
and all of them pay the tribute of their Water
to a Rivulet that falls from the Well. There
is a little Freſh water Lake within ten Yards
of the faid Well, it abounds with Trouts, but
neither
Weſtern Islands of Scotland, &c. 141

neither the Natives nor Strangers will ever pre-


fume to deſtroy any of them, fuch is the e-
fteem they have for the Water.

THERE is a fmall Coppice near to the


Well, and there is none of the Natives dare
venture to cut the leaft Branch of it, for fear
of ſome fignal Judgment to follow upon it.

THERE are many Wells here eſteemed ef-


fectual to remove ſeveral Diftempers, the Light-
eſt and wholeſomeſt Water in all the lfle is that
of Tonbir Tellibreck in Uge, the Natives fay
that the Water of this Well, and the Sea-plant
call'd Dulſe would ſerve inſtead of Food for a
confiderable time, and own that they have ex-
perienc'd it in time of War. I faw a little
Well in Kilbride in the South of Sky, with one
Trout only in it, the Natives are very tender
it,and tho' they often chance to catch it in their
wooden Pales, they are very careful to preſerve
it from being deftroy'd, it has been feen there
for many Years, there is a Rivulet, not far
diſtant from the Well, to which it hath proba-
bly had access through fome narrow Paffage.

THERE are many Rivers on all quarters of


the Ifle, about thirty of them afford Salmon,
and ſome of ' em black Mufles,in which Pearl do
breed particularly the River of Kilmartin, and
the River Ord.The Proprietor told methat fome
Years ago a Pearl had been taken out of the
former
142 A Deſcription of the
former valued at 20 l. Sterling. There are fe
veral Cataracts as that in Sker-horen, Holm,

Rig and Tont. When a River makes a great


noiſe in time of fair Weather, it's a fure Prog-
noftick here of Rain to enſue.

THERE are many Fresh-water Lakes in


Skie, and generally well ftockt with Trout and
Eels, the Common Flie, and the Earth-worms
are ordinarily us'd for angling Trout, the beſt
Seaſon for it is a Calm, or a South-west Wind.

THE largeſt of the Fresh-water Lakes is


that nam❜d after St. Columbus, on the account
of the Chappel dedicated to that Saint, it
ftands in the Ifle, about the middle of the
Lake.

THERE is a little Freſh-water Lake near


the South-
fide of Lech-einordstard, in which
Mufces grow that breed Pearl.

THIS Ifle hath anciently been covered all


over with Woods, as appears from the great
Trunks ofFir-trees, &c. dug out of the Bogs,
frequently, &c. there are feveral Coppices of
Wood, fcattered up and down the Ifle, the lar
geft called Lettir-hurr, exceeds not three Miles
in length.

HERRINGS are often taken in moſt or all


the Bays mention'd above, Loch-effort, Slapan,
Loch-fallorts
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 143

Loch-fallort, Loch -
fcowfar, and the Kyle of
Scalpa , are generally known to Strangers, for
the great quantities of Herring taken in them.
This fort of Fiſh is commonly feen without the
Bays, and on the Coaft all the Summer. All
other Fish follow the Herring and their Fry,
from the Whale to the leaft Fish that fwims,
the biggeſt ſtill deſtroying the leffer.

THE Fiſhers and others told me that there

is big Herring almoſt double the ſize of any of


its kind, which leads all that are in a Bay, and
the Shoal follows it wherever it goes . This
Leader is by the Fiſhers called the King of
Herring, and when they chance to catch it
alive , they drop it carefully into the Sea, for
they judge it Petty Treaſon to deſtroy a Fiſh
of that Name.

THE Fiſhers fay, that all forts ofFiſh from


the greateſt to the leaft, have a Leader, who
is follow'd by all of its kind.

IT is a General Obſervation all Scotland

over, that if a Quarrel happen on the Coaſt


where Herring is caught, and that Blood be
drawn violently, then the Herring go away
from the Coaſt without returning, during that
Seafon. This they fay has been obferv'd in
all paft Ages, as well as at prefent ; but this
I relate only as a common Tradition, and
fubmit it to the Judgment of the Learned .
THE
144 A Deſcription of the

THE Natives preferve and dry their Her-


ring without Salt, for the fpace of eight
Months, provided they be taken after the
tenth of September ; they ufe no other Art in
it, but take out their Guts, and then tying a
ruſh about their Necks, hang them by Pairs
upon a Rope made of Heath, croſs a Houſe,
and they eat well, and free from Putrefaction,
after eight Months, keeping in this manner.
Cod, Ling, Herring, Mackrel, Haddock,
Whiting, Turbat, together with all other
Fish that are in the Scots Seas, abound on
the Coafts of this Iſland .

THE best time of taking Fish with an


Angle is in warm weather, which difpofes
them to come near the furface of the Water,
whenas in cold weather, or rain, they go to
the bottom. The beft Bait for Cod and Ling
is a piece of Herring, Whiting, Thornback,
Haddock, or Eel. The Grey-Lord, alias
Black-mouth, a Fiſh ofthe fize and ſhape ofa
There is
Salmon, takes the Limpet for Bair.
another way of Angling for this Fish, by faft-
ning a fhort white Down of aGooſe behind the
Hook, and the Boat being continually row'd,
the Fish run greedily after the Down, and are
cafily caught. The Gray- Lord fwims in the
furface of the Water, and then is caught with
a Spear, a Rope being tied to the further end of
it, and fecur'd in the Fishermans hand.
ALL
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 145

ALL the Bays and Places of Anchorage


here, abound with moft kinds of fhell-fifh
The Kyle of Scalpa affords Oyfters in fuch
Plenty, that commonly a Spring- Tide of Ebb
leaves fifteen, fometimes twenty Horfe Load
of them on the fands .

THE Sands on the Coaſt of Bernfill Village


at the Spring Tides afford daily fuch plenty of
Muſcles, as is fufficient to maintain fixty
Perfons per day ; and this was a great fupport
to many poor Families of the Neighbourhood
in the late years of fcarcity. The Natives
obferve that all fhell-fifh are plumper at the
increaſe than decreaſe of the Moon ; they ob-
ferve likewife that all thell-fifh are plumper du-
ring a fouth west wind, than when it blows
from the north , or north caft quarters.

THE Limpet being parboil'd with a very


little quantity of water, the Broth is drank
to increaſe Milk in Nurfes, and likewiſe when
the Milk proves aftringent to the Infants.
The Broth of the black Periwinkle is us'd in
the fame Cafes. It's obferv'd that Limpets
being frequently eat in June, are apt to occa-
fion the Jaundice ; the outfide of the Fifh is
colour'd like the skin of a Perfon that has the
Jaundice , the tender yellow part ofthe Limpet
which is next to the thell, is reckon'd good
nouriſhment, and very eafie of digeſtion:
K I had
146 A Deſcription of the

I had an Account of a poor Woman who


was a Native of the Iſle of Jara, and by the
Troubles in King Charles the Firft's Reign was
almoſt reduc'd to a ftarving Condition, fo
that the loft her Milk quite, by which her
Infant had nothing proper for its fuftenance ;
upon this the boyl'd fome of the tender, Fat of
the Limpets, and gave it to her Infant, to
whom it became fo agreeable, that it had no
other Food for feveral Months together ; and
yet there was not a Child in Jura, or any of the
adjacent Ifles wholfomer than this poor In-
fant, which was expos'd to fo great a ſtrait.

THE Limpet creeps on the Stone and Rock


in the night time, and in a warm day, but if
any thing touch the fhell, it inftantly clings
to the ftone, and then no hand is able to pluck
it off without ſome Inſtrument ; and therefore
fuch as take 'em, have little Hammers, call'd
Limpet-hammers, with which they beat it
from the Rock ; but if they watch its motion,
and furprize it, the leaft touch of the hand
pulls it away; and this that is taken creeping,
they fay is larger and better than that which
is pull'd off by force. The motion, fixation ,
tafte and feeding, &c. of this little Animal
being very curious, I have here exhibited its
Figure, for the fatisfaction of the inquifitive
Reader.

I have
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 147

I have likewife here exhibited the Figure of


the Balanos , growing on Stone, and Shells,
in which, very ſmall Wilks are found to lodge,
and grow.

THE pale Wilk, which in length and fmal-


neſs exceeds the black Periwinkle, and by the
Natives call'd Gil-
funt, is by them beat in
pieces, and both Shell and Fish boyl'd ; the
Broth being ſtrain'd and drunk for ſome days
together, is accounted a good Remedy againſt
the Stone ; it is call'd a Dead Mans Eye at
Dover. It is obferv'd of Cockles, and Spout-
Fish, that they go deeper in the Sands with
North Winds, than any other ; and on the
contrary, they are eaſier reach'd with South
Winds, which are ſtill warmeft.

IT is a General Obſervation of all fuch as


live on the Sea Coast, that they are more
prolifick than any other People whatſoever.

K 2 The
148 A Deſcription of the

The Sea-Plants here, are as follows.

INARICH, a very thin fmall green


L Plant, about eight, ten , or twelve inches
in length, it grows on Stone, on Shells, and
on the bare Sand ; this Plant is applied
Plaiſterwife to the Forehead and Temples
to procure Sleep, for fuch as have a Fe-
ver, and they fay it is effectual for this
purpoſe.

The Linarich is likewiſe applied to the


Crown of the Head, and Temples, for remo-
ving the Megrim, and alfo to heal the
Skin after a Blifter Plaiſter, of Flammula
Fovis.

Slake, a very thin Plant, almoſt round,


about ten or twelve inches in circumference,
grows on the Rocks, and Sands ; the Natives
eat it boil'd, and it diffolves into Oil ; they
fay that if a little Butter be added to it ,
one might live many years on this alone,
without Bread, or any other Food, and at the
fame time, undergo any laborious exerciſe :
This Plant boil'd with fome Butter, is given
to Cows in the Spring, to remove Coftive-
nefs.

Dulfe
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 149

Dulfe is of a reddish brown Colour, about


ten or twelve inches long, and above half an
inch in breadth, it is eat raw, and then reckon'd
to be loofning, and very good for the fight ;
But if boil'd it proves more loofning, it the
juice be drank with it. This Plant applied
Plaiſter wife to the Temples, is reckon'd
effectual againſt the Megrim ; the Plant boil'd,
and eat with its infufion, is us'd againſt the
Cholick, and Stone, and dried without waſhing
it in water, pulveriz'd and given in any
convenient Vehicle Fafting, it kills Worms :
the Natives eat it boil'd with Butter, and
reckon it very wholfom. The Dulfe recom-
mended here, is that which grows on Stone,
and not that which grows on the Alga Marina,
or Sea Tangle ; for tho' that be likewiſe eaten,
it will not ſerve in any of the Cafes above men-
tion'd.
THE Alga Marina, or Sea-Tangle, or as
fome call it Sea-ware, is a Rod about four, fix,
eight or ten Foot long, having at the end a
Blade commonly flit into feven or eight pieces,
and about a foot and half in length ; it grows
on Stone, the Blade is eat by the Vulgar
Natives. I had an Account of a young Man
who had loft his Appetite, and taken Pills to
no purpoſe, and being adviſed to boil the
Blade of the Alga, and drink the infufion
boil'd with a little Butter, was reftor'd to his
former ftate of health.
K 3 THERE
150 A Deſcription of the

THERE is abundance of White and Red


Coral growing on the S. and W. Coaft ofthis
Ifle, it grows on the Rocks , and is frequently
interwoven with the roots of the Alga ; the
Red feems to be a good freſh Colour when firſt
taken out of the Sea, but in a few hours after
it becomes pale. Some of the Natives take a
quantity of the red Coral, adding the yolk
of an Egg roafted to it, for the Diarrhea:
Both the Red and White Corral here is not
above five inches long, and about the bigness
of a Gooſes Quill.

THERE are many Caves to be ſeen on


each quarter of this Ifle, fome of them are
believ❜d to be feveral Miles in length , there
is a big Cave in the Village Bornskittag, which
is fuppos'd to exceed a Mile in length. The
Natives told me that a Piper who was over
curious, went into the Cave with a defign to
find out the length of it, and after he entred,
began to play on his Pipe, but never res

turn'd to give an account of his Progreſs.

THERE is a Cave in the Village Kigg,


wherein drops of water that iffue from the
roof, petrifie into a white Limy fubftance,
and hang down from the roof and fides of
the Cave.

THERE
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 151

THERE is a Cave in the Village Holm,


having many petrified Twigs hanging from the
top, they are hollow from one end to the
other, and from five to ten inches in length .

THERE is a big Cave in the Rock on the


eaft fide Portrie, large enough for eighty
Perfons ; there is a Well within it, which to-
gether with its Scituation and narrow Entry,
renders it an inacceffible Fort, one Man only
can enter it at a time, by the fide of a Rock,
fo that with a Staff in in his hand, he is able
by the leaft touch to caft over the Rock as
many as fhall attempt to come into the
Cave.

ON the South fide Loch Portry, there is a


large Cave in which many Sea Cormorants do
Build ; the Natives carry a bundle of ſtraw
to the door of the Cave in the Night time,
and there ſetting it on fire, the Fowls fly with
all speed to the Light, and fo are caught in
Baskets laid for that purpoſe. The Golden
Cave in Sleat is faid to be feven Miles in
length, from the Weſt to Eaſt.

THERE are many Cairns,or heaps ofStones,


in this Iſland. Some of the Natives fay they
were erected in the times of Heathenifm , and
that the ancient Inhabitants Worshipped about
them. In Popish Countries the People ftill
K 4 retain
152 A Deſcription of the

retain the ancient Cuſtom of making a Tour


round them .

OTHERS fay, thefe Cairns were erected


where Perfons of Diftinction, killed in Battle,
had been Buried, and that their Urns were laid
in the ground under the Cairns. I had an

account of a Cairn in Knapdale in the Shire of


Argyle, underneath which an Uṛn was found.
There are little Cairns to be ſeen in fome
places on the common Road, which were
made only where Corpfes happen'd to reft for
fome minutes ; but they have laid afide the
making fuch Cairns now.

THERE is an erected Stone in Kilbride in

Strath, which is ten Foot high, and one and


a half broad.

THERE is another of five Foot high plac'd


in the middle of the Cairn, on the South fide
Loch Uge, and is call'd the high Stone of
Uge.

THERE are three fuch Stones on the Sea


Coaft, oppofite to Skerinefs, each of them
three Foot high ; the Natives have a Tradi-
tion, that upon thefe Stones a big Caldron
was fet for Boyling Fin Mack Coul's Meat.
This Gigantick Man is reported to have been
General of a Militia that came from Spain, to
Ireland, and from thence to thoſe ffles i all

his
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland , &c. 153

his Soldiers are called Fienty from Fiun, he is


believed to have arrived in the Ifles, in the
reign of King Evan, the Natives have many
Stories of this General and his Army with which
I will not trouble the Reader. He is mentio-

ned in Biſhop Lessly's Hiſtory.

THERE are many Forts erected on the


Coaſt of this Ifle, and fuppos'd to have been
built by the Danes ; they are called by the
Name of Dun from Dain, which in the ancient
Language fignify'd a Fort ; they are round in
form, and they have a Paffage all round with-
in the Wall, the Door of'em is low, and ma-
ny of the Stones are of fuch bulk that no

number of the preſent Inhabitants could raiſe


them without an Engine.

ALL theſe Forts ftand upon eminences, and


are fo difpofed, that there is not one of
them , which is not in view of fome other ;
and by this means when a Fire is made upon a
Beacon, in any one Fort,it's in a few Moments
after communicated to all the reft, and this
hath been always obferved upon fight of any
number of foreign Veffels, or Boats approach-
ing the Coaſt.

THE Forts are commonly named after the


Place where they are, or the Perſon that built
them, as Dun-Skudborg, Dun- Derig, Dun- Ske-
rinefs, Dun-David, &c.
THERE
154 A Defcription of the

THERE are feveral little Stone-houſes,


built under Ground , called Earth-houſes,
which ferved to hide a few People and their
Goods in time of War, the Entry to them
was on the Sea, or River fide ; there is one of
them in the Village Lachfay, and another in
Camftinvag.

THERE are feveral little Stone- houſes

built above ground, capable only of one Per-


fon, and round in form, one of ' em is to be
feen in Portry, another at Lincro, and at Cu-
luknock ; they are called Tey-nin-druinich (i. e.)
Druids- houfe, Druinich ſignifies a retired Perfon,
much devoted to Contemplation ,

THE Fewel us'd here is Peats dug out of


the Heaths, there are Cakes of Iron found in
the Aſhes of fome of ' em, and at Flodgery Vil
lage, there are Peats from which Salt-peter
fparkles. There is a Coal lately diſcovered at
Holm in Portry, fome of which I have ſeen,
there are pieces of Coal dug out likewiſe of
the Sea-fand in Helderfta of Vaternis, and fome
found in the Village Mogftat.

THE Cattle produced here are Horſes,Cows,


Sheep, Goats and Hogs : The common work-
horfes are expos'd to the rigour of the Seaſon
during the Winter and Spring, and tho they
have neither Corn, Hay, or but ſeldom Straw,
yet they undergo all the Labour that other
Horfes better treated are liable to. THE
Weſtern Inlands of Scotland,&c. 155

THE Cows are likewife expos'd to the ri-


gour ofthe coldeſt Seaſons, and become meer
Skeletons in the Spring, many of them not be-
ing able to riſe from the Ground without help,
but they recover as the Seafon becomes more
favourable , and the Grafs grows up, then they
acquire New-beef, which is both fweet and
tender ; the Fat and Lean is not fo much fepara-
ted in them as in other Cows , but as it were
larded, which renders it very agreeable tothe
Tafte, a Cow in this Ifle, may be twelve
Years old, when at the fame time, its Beef,
is not above four, five, or fix Months Old.
When a Calf is flain its an ufual Cuſtom to co-
ver another Calf with its Skin to fuck the Cow
whofe Calfhath been flain, or elſe the gives no
Milk, nor ſuffers her felfto be approach'd by
any body, and if the diſcover the Cheat, then
the grows enraged for fome days, and the laſt
remedy us'd to pacifie her is to uſe the fwee-
teft Voice, and fing all the time of milking her.
When any Man is troubled with his Neigh-
bours Cows, by breaking into his Incloſures,
he brings all to the utmoſt boundary of his
Ground, and there, drawing a quantity of
Blood from each Cow, he leaves them upon

the ſpot, from whence they go away, without


ever returning again to trouble him , during all
that Seaſon. The Cows often feed upon the
Alga Marina or Sea-ware ; and they can ex-
actly diſtinguiſh the Tide of Ebb from the
Tide
156 A Defcription of the
Tide of Flood, tho' at the ſame time they are
not within view of the Sea, and if one meet
them running to the fhore at the Tide of Ebb,
and offer to turn them again to the Hills to
graze they will not return, when the Tide has
Ebb'd about two hours, fo as to uncoverthe
Sea- ware, then they fteer their courſe directly
to the neareſt Coaſt, in their ufual order, one
after another, whatever their number be, there
are as many Inſtances of this, as there are Tides
of Ebb on the fhore. I had occafion to make
this Obfervation thirteen times in one Week,
for tho' the Natives gave me repeated affuran-
ces of the truth of it, I did not fully believe it,
till I faw many Instances of it in my Travels
along the Coaſt. The Natives have a remark
that when the Cows belonging to one Perfon
do of a fudden become very irregular and run
up and down the Fields, and make a lowd.
noife, without any viſible caufe, that it is a
prefage of the Maſter or Miſtreſs's Death, of
which there were feveral lateInſtances given me,
James Mack-Donald of Capftil, having been
killed at the Battle of Kelicrankie, it was Obfer-
ved that night, that his Cows gave Blood in-
ftead of Milk, his Family and other Neigh-
bours concluded this a bad Omen, The Mini-
fter of the Place, and the Miftrifs ofthe Cows,
together with feveral Neighbours affured me
of the truth of this.

THERE
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 157

THERE was a Calf brought forth in Va-


ternis without Legs, it leaped very far, bel-
lowed louder than any other Calf, and drank
much more Milk, at laft the Owner killed it.
Kenneth the Carpenter, who lives there told me
that he had feen the Calf. I was alfo infor-
med that a Cow in Vaternis , brought forth five
Calves at a time, of which, three died.

THERE was a Calf at Skerinefs, having all


its Legs double, but the Bones had but one
Skin to cover both, the Owner fancying it to
be Ominous killed it, after having lived nine
Months. Several of the Natives there abouts
told me that they had ſeen it.

THERE are feveral Calves that have a flit


in the top of their Ears, and theſe the Natives
fancy to bethe Iffue of a Wild- bull, that comes
from the Sea or fresh Lakes, and this Calf is
by them call'd Corky-fyre.

THERE'S Plenty of Land and Water Fowl


in this Ifle as Hawks, Eagles of two kinds,
the one Gray and of a larger fize, the other
much leſs and Black, but more deftructive to
"
young Cattle. Black- cock, Heath-hen, Plo
vers, Pigeons, Wild-Geefe, Tarmagan, and
Cranes, of this latter fort, I have ſeen fixty on
the ſhore in a flock together.The Sea Fowls are
Malls of all kinds. Coulterneb , Guillamet , Sea-
Cormorant,
n
iptio
158 A Deſcr of the
Cormorant, &c. The Natives obſerve that the

latter if perfectly Black, make no good Broth,


nor is its Fleſh worth eating, but that a Cormo-
rant, which has any white Feathers or Down,
makes good Broth, and the Flesh of it is good
Food, and the Broth is uſually drunk by Nur-
fes to encreaſe their Milk.

THE Natives obferve that this Fowl flutters

with its Wings towards the quarter from which


the Wind is foon after to blow.

THE Sea fowl Bunivochil, or as fome Sea-


men call it Carara, and others Biſhop, is as
big as a Gooſe, of a brown Colour, and the
infide of the Wings white, the Bill is long and
broad,& it is footed like a Goofe, it dives quick-
er than any other Fowl whatever, its very Fat.
The Cafe of this Fowl being flea'd off with the
Fat , and a little Salt laid on to preſerve it, and
then applied to the Thigh-bone, where it muſt
lie for fome Weeks together, is an effectual
remedy againſt the Sciatica, of which I faw
two Inftances. It is obferved of Fire- arms that
are rubb'd over (as the cuftom is here) with the
Oylor Fat of Sea-Fowls, that they contract
ruft much fooner, than when done with the
Fat of Land-Fowl ; the Fulmar Oyl from St.
Kilda only exceptd, for it preferves Iron from
contracting ruft much longer than any other
Oyl or Greaſe whatfoever, the Natives obferve,
that when the Sea- Pyc, warbles it Notes
inceffantly,
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 159

inceffantly, it is a fure prefage of Fair Weather


to follow in a few hours after.

THE Amphibia to be ſeen in thislfle, areSeals ,


Otters, Vipers, Frogs, Toads and Asks, the
Otter fhuts its Eyes when it eats, and this is
a confiderable difadvantage to it, for then fe-
veral ravenous Fowls lay hold on this oppor.
tunity, and rob it of its Fish.

THE Hunters fay there is a big Otter above


"
the ordinary fize with a White Spot on its
Breaſt, and this they call the King of Otters,
it is rarely feen and very hard to be killed ,
Seamen afcribe great Vertues to the skin ; for
they ſay that it is fortunate in Battle, and that
Victory is always on its fide. Serpents abound
in feveral parts of this Ifle,there are three kinds
of them, the first Black and White spotted,
which is the moſt Poyſonous, and if a ſpeedy
remedy be not made uſe of after the Wound
given, the Party is in danger. I had an Ac-
count that a Man at Glenmore , a Boy at Por-
try, and a Woman at Loch - fcah- vag, did all
die of Wounds given by this fort of Serpents ;
fome believe that the Serpents wound with
the Sting only, and not with their Teeth , but
this Opinion is founded upon a bare Conjecture
becauſe the Sting is expoſed to view, but the
Teeth very rarely feen, they are fecured with-
in a Hofe of Flesh, which prevents their being
broke, the end of them being hook'd and ex-
ceeding
160 A Defcription of the

ceeding ſmall, would foon be deſtroy'd, if it


had not been for this Fence , that Nature has
given them. The longeſt of the black Serpents
mention'd above, is from two to three, or at
moſt four foot long.

THE yellow Serpent with brown ſpots, is


not ſo poyſonous, nor fo long as the black
and white one .

THE brown Serpent is of all three the leaft


poyſonous, and ſmalleſt and ſhorteſt in fize.

THE Remedies uſed here to extract the poy.


of Serpents are various. The Rump of a
Houſe Cock ſtrip'd of its Feathers, and ap
plied to the Wound, doth powerfully ex-
tract the poyfon, if timely applied. The
Cock is obferv'd after this to fwell to a great
bulk, far above its former fize, and being
thrown out into the Fields, no Ravenous Bird,
or Beaſt, will ever offer to tafte of it.

THE Fork'd Sting taken out of an Adder's


Tongue, is by the Natives fteep'd in water,
with which they wash and cure the wound.
1

THE Serpent's Head that gives the wound,


being applied, is found to be a good Remedy.

NEW Cheeſe applied timely, extracts the


Poyſon well.
THERE
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 161
THERE are two forts of Weasles in the
Ifle, one of which exceeds that of the common
fize in bignefs ; the Natives fay that the breath
of it kills Calves, and Lambs, and that the
leffer fort is apt to occafion a decay in fuch as
frequently have them tame about them ; efpe-
cially fuch as fuffer them to fuck and lick
about their mouths.

The Inferiour Ifles about SKIE .

OA- BRETTIL lies within a quarter of


Mile to the South of the Mountain Quillin,
SOA
it's five Miles in Circumference, and full of
Bogs, and fitter for Pafturage than Cultiva-
tion. About a Mile on the Weft fide it is
cover'd with Wood, and the reft confifts of
Heath, and Graſs, having a mixture of the
Mertillo all over. The Red Garden Currants
grow in this Ifle, and are fuppos'd to have
been carried thither by Birds. There has been
no Venomous Creature ever ſeen in this little
Ifle, until within theſe two years laſt, that a
black and white big Serpent was feen by one
of the Inhabitants who kill'd it ; they believe
it came from the oppofite Coaſt of Skie, where
there are many big Serpents. There is abun
dance of Cod and Ling round this Iſle.

ON the South of Sleat lies and Oronfa,


which is a Peninſula at low water ; it's a Mile
L in
162 A Defcription of the

in Circumference, and very Fruitful in Corn,


and Graſs. As for the latter, it's faid to excell
" any piece of ground of its extent in thoſe
parts

IN the North entry to Kyle- Akin, lie feve


ral fmall Ifles ; the biggeſt and next to Skie
is Ilan Nin Gillin, about half a Mile in Cir
cumference, cover'd all over with long Heath,
and the Erica Baccifera, there is abundance of
Seals, and Sea Fowls about it.

A League further North lies the Ifle Pabbay,


about two Miles in Circumference, it excells
in Pafturage, the Cows in it afford near double
the Milk that they yield in Skie. In the Dog
Days there is a big Flye in this Ifle, which
infefts the Cows, makes them run up and
down, difcompoſes them exceedingly , and
hinders their Feeding,infomuch that they muft
be brought out of the Ifle, to the Iſle of Skie ;
this Ifle affords abundance of Lobsters, Limpets,
Wilks, Crabs, and ordinary Sea Plants.

ABOUT half a League further North lies


the fmall Ifle Gilliman, being a quarter of a
Mile in Circumference ; the whole is cover'd
with long Heath, and the Erica Baccifera.
Within a call further North lies the Ifle Scal-
pa, very near to Skie, five Miles in Circum-
ference, it is Mountanous from the South end,
almoſt to the North end, it has Wood in feve-
ral
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 163

ral parts of it ; the South end is moſt arable,


and is Fruitful in Corn andGraſs.

ABOUT a Mile further North is the Iſle


Rafay, being feven Miles in length, and three
in breadth, floaping on the Weft and Eaſt
fides ; it has fome Wood on all the Quarters
of it, the whole is fitter for Pafturage than
Cultivation, the Ground being generally very
unequal, but very well watered with Rivulets
and Springs. There's a Spring running down
the face of a high Rock on the Eaſt fide ofthe
Ifle, it petrifies into a white ſubſtance, ofwhich
very fine Lime is made, and there's a great
quantity of it. There's a Quarry of good Stone
one the fame fide of the Ifle ; there is abun-
dance of Caves on the Weft fide, which ferve
to lodge ſeveral Families ; who for their con-
venience in Grazing, Fiſhing, &c. refort thither
in the Summmer. On the Weft fide, particu
lary near to the Village Clachan, the Shoar
abounds with ſmooth Stones of different fizes,
variegated all over. The fame Cattle , Fowl
and Fiſh are produc'd here, that are found in
the Iſle of Skie. There is a Law obferv'd by
the Natives, that all their Fiſhing- Lines muſt
be of equal length, for the longeſt is always
fuppos'd to have beft access to the Fish, which
would prove a difadvantage to fuch as might
have shorter ones.

L 2 THERE
164 A Deſcription of the

THERE are fome Forts in this Ifle, the


higheft is in the South end, it is a Natural
ftrength, and in form like the Crown of a
Hat ; it's called Dun-Cann, which the Natives
will needs have to be from one Canne Coufen
to the King of Denmark. The other lies on
fide, is an Artificial Fort, three Stories high,
and is called Castle Vreokle.

THE Proprietor of the Ifle is Mr. Mack Leod,


a Cadet ofthe Family of that Name ; his Seat
is in the Village Clachan, the Inhabitants have
as great a veneration for him, as any Subjects
can have for their King. They preſerve the
Memory of the deceaſed Ladies of the Place,
by erecting a little Pyramid of Stone for
each of them, with the Ladies Name. Theſe
Pyramids are by them called Croffes ; : feveral
of them are built of Stone and Lime, and
have three ſteps of gradual afcent to ' em .
There are eight fuchCroffes about the Village,
which is adorn'd with a little Tower, and
leffer Houſes, and an Orchard with ſeveral
forts of Berries, Pot-herbs, &c. The Inhabi-
tants are all Proteftants, and uſe the fame
Language, Habit, and Diet, with the Natives
of Skie.

ABOUT a quarter of a Mile further North


lies the Ifle Rona, which is three Miles in
length, Veffels pafs through the narrow
Channel
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &i. 165
Channel between Rofay, and Rona, this little
Ifle is the moſt unequal rocky piece of Ground
to be ſeen any where ; there's but very few
Acres fit for digging, the whole is covered with
long Heath, Erica- baccifera, Mertillus, and
fome mixture of Grafs, it is reckoned very
fruitful in Pafturage, moſt of the Rocks con-
fift of the Hectic Stone, and a confiderable
part of 'em is of a Red Colour.

THERE is a Bay on the South- west end of


the Ifle, with two Entries, the one is on the
Weft-fide, the other on the South, but the lat-
ter is only acceffible, it has a Rock within the
Entry, and a good Fishing.

ABOUT three Leagues to the North - west of


Rona, is the Ifle Fladda being almoſt joyn'd to
Skie, it is all plain arable Ground, and about
a Mile in Circumference.

ABOUT a Mile to the North, lies the Ifle


Altvig, it has a high Rock facing the East, is
near two Miles in Circumference , and is repu-
ted fruitful in Corn and Grafs, there is a little
old Chappel in it, dedicated to St. Turos.
There is a Rock of about forty Yards in length
at the North-end of the Ifle diftinguiſhed for its 9
commodiouſneſs in Fishing. Herrings are feen
about this Rock in great Numbers all Summer,
infomuch that the Fiſher- boats are fometimes
as it were entangled among the fhoals of
them .
L 3 THE
166 A Deſcription of the

THE Ifle Troda, lies within half a League


to the Northermoft point of Skie, called Huniſh,
it is two Miles in Circumference, fruitful in
Corn, and Graſs, and had a Chappel dedica-
ted to St. Columbus. The Natives told me that,
there is a couple of Ravens in the Ifle, which
fuffer none other oftheir kind to come thither,
and when their own Young are able to flie,
they beat them alfo away from the Ifle.

FLADDA-Chuan(i.e. ) Fladda of the Ocean,lies


about two Leagues diftant from the West -fide
of Hunifh-point, it is two Miles in Compaſs,
the Ground is boggy, and but indifferent for
Corn or Grafs ; the Ifle is much frequented for
the plenty of Fish of all kinds, on each quar-
ter of it. There are very big Whales which pur
fue the Fiſh on the Coaft,theNatives diſtinguiſh
one Whale for its bignefs above all others, and
told me that it had many big Limpets growing
upon its Back, and that the Eyes of it were of
fuch a prodigious bignefs, as ftruck no ſmallTer-
ror into the Beholders. There is a Chappel in
the Ifle dedicated to St. Columbus, it has an
Altar in the Eaft-end, and there is a blue Stone
ofa round Form on it, which is always moift ;
It is an ordinary Cuſtom, when any of the
Fiſhermen are detain'd in the Ifle, by con-
trary Winds, to wash the blue Stone with Wa-
ter all round, expecting thereby to procure a fa-
vourable Wind, which the Credulous Tenant

living
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 167
living in the Ifle fays never fails, eſpecially if
a Stranger waſh the Stone ; The Stone is like-
wife applied to the fides of People troubled
with Stitches, and they fay it is effectual for
that purpoſe. And fo great is the regard they
have for this Stone, that they fwear decifive
Oaths on it.

THE Monk O Gorgon is buried near to this


Chappel, and there is a Stone five foot high
at each end of his Grave. There's abundance

of Sea-fowl that come to hatch their Young in


the Ifle ; the Coulter-nebs are very numerous
here, it comes in the middle of March, and
goes away in the middle of August, it makes
a Tour round the Ifle Sunways, before it fet-
tles on the Ground, and another at going away
in August ; which Ceremony is much approved
by the Tenant of the Ifle, and is one of the
chief Arguments, he made uſe for making the
like round, as he fets out to Sea with his
Boat.

THERE is a great Flock of Plovers, that


come to this Ifle frome Skie, in the beginning
of September, they return again in April, and
are faid to be neer two thoufand in all ; I told
the Tenant he might have a Couple of theſe at
every meal during the Winter and Spring, but
my motion feem'd very difagreeable to him:For
he declared that he had never once attempted
to take any ofthem , tho he might if he would,
L 4 and
168 A Deſcription of the
and at the fame time told me, he wondred how
I could imagine, that he would be fo Barba-
rous as to take the lives of fuch innocent Crea-

tures as came to him only for Self- prefervation.

THERE are fix or ſeven Rocks within di-


ſtance of a Musket- fhot, on the South-east fide
the Ifle, the Sea running between each of them ;
that lying more Easterly is the Fort called bord
Cruin, (i. e.) a round Table, from its round
Form , it is about three hundred Paces in Cir-
cumference, flat in the toep, has a deep Well
within it, the whole is furrounded with afteep
Rock, and has only one Place that is acceffi-
ble by climbing, and that only by one Man at
a time, there is a violent current of a Tide on
each fide of it, which contributes to render it
an Impregnable Fort, it belongs to Sr. Donald
Mac Donald, one fingle Man above the
Entry, without being expos'd to fhot, is able
with a Staff in his hand, to keep off five hun-
dred Attaquers, for one only can climb the
Rock at a time, and that not without diff .
culty.

THERE is a high Rock on the Weft fide


the Fort, which may be fecured alfo by a few
hands.

ABOUT half a League on the South-fide the


round Table, lies the Rock called Jeskar (i. e.)
Fisher, becauſe many Fiſhing-boats refort to it,
it
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 169

it is not higher than a ſmall Veffel under


Sail. This Rock affords a great quantity of
Scurvy - grafs , of an extraordinary fize, and very
thick, the Natives eat it frequently, as well
Boyl❜d as Raw, two of them told me that they
happen'd to be confin'd there, for the ſpace of
thirty hours by a contrary Wind ; and being
without Victuals, fell to eating this Scur-
vy-grafs, and finding it of a fweer Taſte, far
different from the Land Scurvy - grafs , they eat
a large Basket full of it, which did abundantly
fatisfie their Appetites untill their return home ;
they told me alſo that it was not in the leaſt
windy, or any other way troubleſome to
them .

ISLAND Tulm on the Weft of the wing of


Skie,called Troternefs, lies within Mufquet- fhot
ofthe Caſtle of the Name, it is a hard Rock, and
cloathed with Grafs, there are two Caves on
the Weft-fide, in which abundance of Sea Cor-
morants build and hatch.

ABOUT 5 Leagues to the South-west from


Tulm,lies the Ifland Afcrib,which is divided into
ſeveral parts by the Sea, it is about two Miles
in Compaſs , and affords very good Paſturage,
all kind of Fiſh abound in the neighbouring
Sea, on the South-weft fide of the Inle Afcrib,
at the diſtance of two Leagues , lies the two
fmall Iſles of Timan , directly in the mouth of
Loch-arnifort, they are only fit for Paſturage .

ON
170 4 Deſcription of the

ON the Weft-fide of Vaternis Promontory,


within the mouth of Loch-fallart, lies Ifa, two
Miles in Compaſs, being fruitful in Corn and
Grafs, and is Commodious for fishing of Cod
and Ling.

THERE are two fmall Ifles, called Mingoy,


on the North-east fide this Ifle which afford
good Pafturage.

THERE is a red fhort kind of Dulſe, grow-

ing in the South-end of the Ifle, which occafi-


ons a pain in the Head when eaten, a proper-
ty not known in any other Dulfe whatever.

THE two Ifles Bnia and Harlas, lies in the


mouth of Loch-Brakadil, they are both pretty
high Rocks, each of them about a Mile in Cir-
cumference,they afford good Pafturage & there
are red Currants in thefe fmall Ifles, fuppofed
to have been carried thither at firſt by Birds.

THE Southern parts of Skie, as Sleat, and


Strath, are a Month earlier with their Grafs
than the Northern parts, and this is the reaſon
that the Cattle and Sheep, &c. bring forth their
Young fooner than in the North-fide.

THE days in Summer are much longer here


than in the South ofEngland, or Scotland, and the
Nights fhorter, which about the Summer Sol-
ftice
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland,&c. 171

ftice is not above an hour and an halfin length,


and the further we come South, the contrary is
is to be obſerved in Proportion .

THE Air here is commonly moift and Cold,


this difpofes the Inhabitants to take a larger
Dofe of Brandy, or other ftrong Liquors, than
in the South of Scotland, by which they fancy
that they qualify the Moiſture of the Air ; this
is the Opinion of all Strangers , as well as of
the Natives, fince the one as well as the other,
drinks at leaſt treble the quantity of Brandy in
Skie and the adjacent Ifles, that they do in the
more Southern Climate.

THE height of the Mountains contributes


much to the moiſture of the Place, but more
eſpecially the Mountain Quillin, which is the
Husbandmans Almanack, for it is commonly
obferved that if the Heavens above that Moun-
tain be clear and without Clouds in the Mor-
ning, then it is not doubted but the Weather
will prove fair ; & è contra. Tthe height of that
Hill reaching to the Clouds breaks them , and
and then they prefently after fall down in great
Rains according as the Wind blows ; thus when
the Wind blows from the South, then all the
Ground lying to the North of Quillin Hills is
wet with Rains , whereas all the other three
Quarters are dry.

THE
172 A Deſcription of the

THE South-west Winds, are obferved to car-


ry more Rain with them than any other, and
blow much higher in the moſt Northern point
of Skie, than they do two Miles further South,
for which I could perceive no viſible cauſe,
unless it be the height of the Hill ; about two
Miles South from that point, for after we come
to the South-fide of it, the Wind is not percei
ved to be fo high as on the North-fide by
half.

IT'S obferved of the Eaft-wind, that tho it


blow but very gently in the Ifle of Skie, and
on the Weft-fide of it, for the ſpace of about
three or four Leagues towards the West , yet
as we advance more Wefterly, it is fenfibly
higher, and when we come near to the Coaſt
of the more Western Ifles of Uift, Harries,
&c. It is obferved to blow very freſh, tho at
the fame time it is almoft Calm on the West-
fide the Ifle of Skie, the Wind is attended with
fair Weather, both in this and other Western
IЛles.

THE Sea in time of a Calm, is obſerved to


have a rifing motion, before the North-wind
blows, which it has not before the approaching
of any other Wind.

THE North-wind is ftill colder, and more


deſtructive to Corn , Cattle, &c. than any o-
ther.
WOMEN
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 173

WOMEN obferve that their Breaſts contract


to a leffer bulk when the Wind blows from the
North, and that then they yield leſs Milk,
than when it blows from any other Quarter ;
and they make the like obfervation in other
Creatures that give Milk.

THEY obferve that when the Sea yields a


kind of Pleaſant and fweet fcent, it is a fure
prefage of fair Weather to enfue.

THE Wind in Summer blows ftronger by


Land, than by Sea, and the contrary in Win-
ter.

IN the Summer, the Wind is fometimes ob-


ſerved to blow from different Quarters at the
fame time, I have feen two Boats fail quite
contrary ways, until they came within lefs
than a League of each other, and then one of
them was becalm'd, and the other continu'd to
fail forward.

THE Tide of Ebb, here runs Southerly, and


the Tide of Flood Northerly, where no Head
Lands or Promontories are in the way to inter-
poſe, for in fuch cafes the Tides are obferved
to hold a courſe quite contrary to the ordina-
ry motion in thefe Ifles, and the oppoſite main
Land : This is obferved between the Eaft-fide
of Skie and the oppofite continent, where the
Tide
174 A Defcription of the
Tide of Ebb runs Northerly, and the Tide of
ſtone, on the
Flood Southerly, as far as Killach-
South-east of Skie, both Tides running directly
contrary to what is to be ſeen in all the Western
Ifles, and oppofite Continent ; The Natives at
Kylakin, told me that they had feen three diffe-
rent ebbings fucceffively on that part of
Skie.

THE Tide of Ebb is always greater with


North-winds, than when it blows from any o-
ther Quarter, and the Tide of Flood is always
higher with South-winds, than any other.

THE two chief Spring- tides are onthe tenth


of September, and on the tenth or twentieth of
March,

THE Natives are very much difpos'd to ob-


ferve the influence of the Moon on humane

Bodies, and for that cauſe they never dig their


Peats but in the decreaſe, for they obſerve
that if they are cut in the increaſe, they conti-
nue ſtill moiſt, and never burn clear, nor are
they without Smoak, but the contrary is day-
ly obſerved of Peats cut in the increaſe.

THEY make up their earthen Dykes, in


the decreaſe only, for fuch as are made at the
Increaſe are ſtill obferved to fall.

THEY
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c
. 175

THEY fell their Timber, and cut their


Rufhes in time of the decreaſe.

The Difeafes, known and not known

in SKIE, and the adjacent Ifles.

'HE Gout, Corns in the Feet, Convulfions,


T Madnes, Fits of the Mother, Vapours,
Pally, Lethargy, Rheumatisms, Wens, Ganglions,
Kings-evil, Ague Surfeits and Confumptions
are not frequent, and Barenness, and Abortion
very rare.

THE Diſeaſes that prevail here are Feavers,


Stitches, Collick, Head-ach, Megrim, Jaundife,
Sciatica, Stone, Small-pox, Measles, Rickets,
Scurvy, Worms, Fluxes, Tooth- ach, Cough and
Squinance.

THE ordinary Remedies us'd by theNatives,


are taken from Plants, Roots, Stones, Ani-
mals, &c.

TO cure a Pleurifie , the letting of Blood


plentifully, is anordinary Remedy .

WHEY in which Violets have been boyl❜d,


is us'd as a cooling and refreshing Drink for
fuch as are ill of Fevers. When the Patient
has not a ſweat duly, their Shirt is boyl'd in
Water,
176 A Deſcription of the

Water,and afterwards put on them,'which cauſes


a ſpeedy fwear.When the Patient is very Coftive,
and without paffage by Stool or Urine,or paffes
the ordinary time of fweating in Fevers, two
or three handfulls of the Sea plant call'd Dulfe,
boyl'd in a little Water, and fome freſh Butter
with it , and the Infufion drunk, procures Paf-
fage both ways, and ſweat ſhortly after : The
Dulfe, growing on Stone, not that on the Sea-
ware is only proper in this caſe.

TO procure Sleep after a Feaver, the Feet,


Knees, and Ancles of the Patient are waſhed
in warm Water, into which a good quantity
of Chick- weed is put, and afterwards fome of
the Plant is applied warm to the Neck, and
between the Shoulders, as the Patient goes to
Bed,

THE tops of Nettles, chop'd ſmall, and


mix'd with a few whites of raw Eggs, applied
to the Fore-head, and Temples, by way of
a Frontell, is us'd to procure Sleep.

FOXGLOVE, applied warm plaſter wife to


the part affected ; removes pains that follow
after Fevers.

THE Sea-plant Linarich, is us'd to procure


Sleep as is mentioned among its Vertues.

ERICA-BACCIFERA,
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 177

ÈRICA-BACCIFERA boyl'd a little in Wa-


ter, and applied warm to the Crown of the
Head and Temples, is us'd likewife as a Reme-
dy to procure Sleep.

TO remove Stitches, when letting Blood


does not prevail, the part affected is rubb'd
with an Oyntment made of Camomile and
freſh Butter:Or of Brandy with freſh Butter, and
others apply a quantity of raw Scurvy- grafs
chop'd ſmall.

THE Scarlet fever, which appeared in this


İfle, only within theſe two Years laft, is ordi-
narily Cur'd by drinking now and then a glaſs
of Brandy. If an Infant happen to be taken with.
it, the Nurſe drinks fome Brandy, which qua-
lifies the Milk, and proves a fuccessful Re-
medy .

THE Sea-plant Dulfe, is us'd as is faid a-


bove, to remove Collicks, and to remove that
diftemper and Coftiveness , a little quantity of
Freſh-butter, and fome Scurvy-grafs boyl'd,
and eaten with its Infuflon, is an ufual and
and effectual Remedy.

A large handful of the Sea-plant Dulfe, grow-


ing upon Stone, being applied outwardly, as
is mentioned above, againſt the Iliaca Paffio,
takes away the After-birth, with great cafe and
M fafety;
178 A Deſcription of the

fafety ; this Remedy is to be repeated until it


produce the defired effect, tho fome hours may
be intermitted ; the fresher the Dulfe is, the
operation is the ſtronger, for if it is above
two or three days old, little is to be expected
from it in this cafe. This Plant feldom or ne-
ver fails of fuccefs, tho the Patient had been
delivered feveral days before ; and of this I
have lately feen an extraordinary inſtance at
Edinburgh in Scotland, when the Patient was
given over as dead.

DULSE, being eaten raw or boyl'd, is by


dayly experience found to be an excellent An-
tifcorbutick, it is better raw in this cafe, and
muſt be firſt waſh'd in cold Water.

THE Common Alga, or Sea-Ware, is


yearly us'd with fuccefs, to Manure the Fruit
Trees in Sr. Donald Mock Donalds Orchard at
Armidill ; feveral affirm that if a quantity of
Sea-ware be us'd about the roots of Fruit-trees,
whofe growth is hindred by the Sea-air, this
will make them grow and produce Fruit.

HEAD- ACH, is removed by taking raw


Dulfe, and Linarich applied cold by way of a
Plaiſter to the Temples. This likewife is us'd
as a Remedy to remove the Megrim.

THE
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 179

THE faundife is cured by the Vulgar, as


follows ; the Patient being ſtript naked behind
to the middle of the Back, he who acts the
Surgeons part, marks the 11th Bone from the
Rump on the Back, with a black ſtroak, in
order to touch it, with his Tongs as mention'd
already.

SCIATICA is cured by applying the Cafe


with the fat of the Carara-fowl, to the Thigh-
bone, and it must not be removed from thence,
till the Cure is perform❜d.

FLAMULA JOVIS or Spire-wort, being


cut fmall, and a Limpet-fhell filled with it, and
applied to the Thigh-bone, cauſes a Bliſter to
rife about the bigness of an Egg, which being
cut, a quantity of watry matter iffues from it,
the Blifter riſes three times, and being emptied
as often, the Cure is performed ; the Sea-plant
Linarich, is applied to the Place to Cure and
dry the Wound.

CROW-FOOT of the Moor, is more effectual


for raiſing a Blifter, and Curing the Sciatica,
than Flammula Jovis, for that ſometimes fails of
breaking, or raifing the skin, but the Crowfoot
feldom fails.

M 2 SEVERAL
180 A Deſcription of the

SEVERAL of the common People have the


boldness to venture upon the Flammula Jovis,
inſtead of a Purge, they take a little of the in-
fuſion and drink it in melted freſh Butter,as the
propereft Vehicle, and this preferves the Throat
from being excoriated.

FOR the Stone they drink Water-gruel


without Salt : They likewife eat Allium,or wild
Garlick, and drink the Infufion of it boyl'd in
Water, which they find effectual both ways.
The Infufion of the Sea plant Dalfe boyl'd, is
alſo good againſt the Stone, as is likewiſe the
Broth of Wilks and Limpets, and againſt the
Collick, Coftiveness, and Stitches, a quantity of
Scurvy-grafs boyl'd in Water with fome freſh
Butter added and eaten for fome days, is an
effectual Remedy .

TO kill Worms, the Infufion of Tanly in


Whey, or Aqua vita, taken faſting, is an ordi-
nary Medicine with the Islanders.

CARIOPHILATA Alpina Chamedreos fol.


It grows on Marble in divers Parts, about
Chrift-Church in Strath : Never obferved be-
fore in Britain, and but once in Ireland, by
Mr. Hiaton. Morifons Hift. Ray Synopfis 137.

Carmel,alias Knaphard,by Mr. James Suther-


land, call'd Argatilis Sylvaticus, it has a blew
Flower
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 181

Flower in July, the Plant it felf is not use ,


but the Root is eaten to expel Wind, and they
fay it prevents Drunkenneſs, by frequent chew-
ing of it, and being fo us'd gives a good reliſh
to all Liquors, Milk only excepted ; it is Aro-
19
matick, and the Natives prefer it to Spice, for
brewing aqua vite, the Root will keep for ma-
ny Years ; fome fay that it is Cordial, and allays
Hunger.

SHUNNIS is a Plant highly valued by the


Natives who eat it raw, and alfo boyl'd with
Fish, Fleſh, and Milk, it is us'd as a Sovereign
Remedy to cure the Sheep of the Cough, the
Root eaten fafting expels Wind, it was not
known in Britain, except in the North- west
Ifles, and fome parts of the oppofite Continent,
Mr. James Sutherland fent it to France fome
Years ago.

A quantity of wild Sage chewed between


ones Teeth, and put into the Ears of Cows or
Sheep that becomeBlind ,they are therebyCured,
and their Sight perfectly restored ; of which
there are many freſh Inftances both in Skie and
Harries,by Perfons of great Integrity.

A quantity of wild Sage chop'd fmall and


eaten by Horfes mixed with their Corn kills
Worms, the Horſe muſt not drink for 10 hours
after eating it.

M 3 THE
182 A Defcription of the

THE Infuſion of wild Sage after the fame


manner produces the like effect..

WILD Sage cut ſmall, and mix'd among


Oats given to a Horſe fafting, and kept with
out Drink for ſeven or eight hours after, kills
Worms:

FLUXES are Cur'd by taking now and then


a fpoonful of the Syrup of blew Berries that
grow on the Mertillus.

PLANTAIN boyl'd in Water, and the


Hectic tone heated Red-hot quenched in the
fame, is fuccefsfully us'd for Fluxes.

Some cure the Tooth-ach, by applying a lit-


tle of the Flammula Jovis in a Limpet fhell,
to the Temples .

A Green Turf heated among Embers, as hot


as can be endured and by the Patient applied to
the
fide of the Head affected, is likewife us'd
1
for the Tooth-ach .

FOR
" Coughs and Colds, Water-gruel with a
little Butter is the ordinary Cure.

FOR Coughs and Hoarfnefs, they uſe to


bath the Feet in warm Water, for the space ofa
quarter of an hour at leaft ; and then rub a little
quantity
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 183

quantity of Deers greafe (the older the better)


to the foles of their Feet by the Fire,the Deers
greaſe alone is fufficient in the Morning, and
this method muſt be continued until the Cure

is perform'd, and it may be us'd by Young or


Old, except Women with Child, for the firſt
four Months, and fuch as are troubled with
Vapours.

HARTS-TONGUE and Maiden-hair, boyl'd


in Wort, and the Ale drunk, is us'd for Coughs
and Confumptions.

MILK or Water wherein the Hectic-stone


hath been boyl'd or quench'd Red-hot, and be-
ing taken for ordinary Drink, is alſo efficaci-
ous againſt a Confumption.

THE Hands and Feet often waſhed in Water,


in which the Hectic-ftone has been boyl'd is
eſteemed Reſtorative.

TARROW with the Hectic-ftone boyl'd in


Milk, and frequently drunk, is us'd for Con-
Sumptions.

WATER -GRUEL is also found by experience

to be good for Confumptions, it purifies the


Blood and procures Appetite,when Drunk with-
out Salt..

M 4 THERE
184 A Deſcription of the

THERE is a Smith in the Parish of Kilmar-


tin, who is reckoned a Doctor for Curing faint-
nefs of the Spirits. This he performs in the
following manner.

THE Patient being laid on the Anvil with


his Face uppermoft, the Smith takes a big Ham-
mer in both his hands, and making his Face
all Grimace, he approaches his Patient, and
then drawing his Hammer from the Ground,
as if he defign'd to hit him with his full
Strength on the Forehead, he ends in a Faint,
elfe he would be fure to Cure the Patient of all
Diſeaſes ; but the Smith being accuſtomed
with the performance has a dexterity of Ma
naging his Hammer with Deſcretion ; tho aɛ
the fame time he must do it fo as to ſtrike Ter-
ror in the Patient, and this they ſay has always
the defign'd effect.

THE Smith is Famous for his Pedegree, for


it has been obferved of a long time, that there
has been but one only Child born in the Fami-
ly, and that always a Son, and when he arri
ved to Man's eftate, the Father died preſently
after ; the prefent Smith makes up the thir-
teenth Generation of that Race of People who
are bred to be Smiths, and all of them pre
tend to this Cure.

ILICA
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 185

ILICA PASSIO, or Twisting of the Guts,


has been feveral times Cured by drinking a
draught of cold Water, with a little Oatmeal
in it, and then hanging the Patient by the
heels for fome time. The laſt Inſtance in Skie
was by John Morifon, in the Village of Talif-
ker, who by this Remedy alone Cur'd a Boy
of fourteen years of age. Dr. Pitcairn told
me that the like Cure had been perform'd in
the Shire of Fife for the fame Diſeaſe, A Ca
taplafm of hot Dulfe, with its juice, applied
feveral times to the lower part of the Belly,
Cured the Illiac Paffion.

FOR a Fracture, the firſt thing they apply


to a broken Bone, is the white of an Egg, and
ſome Barley Meal ; and then they tie Splinters
round it, and keep it fo tied for fome days.
When the Splinters are untied, they make uſe
of the following Ointment, viz. a like quan-
tity of Betonica Pauli, St. John's Wort, Golden-
Rod, all cut and bruis'd in Sheeps-greaſe , or
Freſh Butter, to a confiftence, fome of this
they ſpread on a Cloath, and lay on the
Wound, which continues untied for a few
days.

GIBEN of St. Kilda, i. e, the Fat of Sea


Fowls made into a Pudding in the Stomach
of the Fowl, is alfo an approved Vulnerary
for Man or Beaſt.
THE
186 A Deſcription of the

THE Vulgar make Purges of the Infufion of


Scurvygrafs , and fome Freſh Butter ; and this
they continue to take for the ſpace of a Week
or two, becauſe it is mild in its operation.

THEY uſe the Infufion of the Sea- plant


Dulfe after the fame manner, inſtead of a
Purge.
EYES that are Blood- fhot, or become blind
for fome days, are Cur'd here by applying
fome blades of the Plant Fern, and the yellow
is by them reckon'd beft ; this they mix with
the white of an Egg, and lay it on ſome coarſe
Flax and the Egg next to the Face and
Brows, and the Patient is order'd to lie on his
back.

TO Ripen a Tumor, or Boil, they cut Fe-


male Jacobea fmall, mix it with fome freſh
Butter on a hot ftone, and apply it warm,
and this ripens and draws the Tumor quickly,
and without pain ; the fame Remedy is us'd
for Womens Breaſts that are hard, or ſwell'd.

FOR taking the Syroms out of the hands,


they uſe afhes of burnt Sea-ware, mix'd with
Salt water, and washing their hands in it,
without drying them, it kills the Worms.

BURNT Afhes of Sea- ware preſerves Cheeſe


inftead of Salt, which is frequently practis'd
in
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 187
in this Ifle. Ashes of burnt Sea-ware fcowers
"
Flaxen Thread better, and makes it whiter
than any thing elſe.

WHEN their Feet are ſwell'd and benum'd


with Cold, they fcarrifie their Heels with a
Lancet.

THEY make Glifters of the Plant Mercury,


and fome of the Vulgar ufe it as a Purge, for
which it ferves both ways.

THEY make Glifters alfo of the Roots of


Flags, Water, and falt Butter.

THEY have found out a ſtrange Remedy for


fuch as could never eafe Nature at Sea byStool,
or Urine ; there were three fuch Men in the Pa-
rifh of St. Maries in Trotterness, two of them I
knew, to wit, John Mack Phade, and Finlay
Mack Phade, they liv'd on the Coaft, and went
often a Fiſhing, and after they had ſpent fome
nine or ten hours at Sea, their Bellies would
fwell ; for after all their endeavours to get
paffage either ways, it was impracticable un-
till they came to Land, and then they found
no difficulty in the thing. This was a great
inconvenience to any Boats-Crew in which
either of theſe three Men had been Fiſhing,
for it oblig'd them often to forbear when the
Fiſhing was moft plentiful, and to Row to the
hoar with any of theſe Men that happened to
become
188 A Deſcription of the

become Sick, for Landing was the only Reme


dy. At length one of their Companions thought
of an Experiment to remove this inconvenience ;
he confider'd that when any of theſe Men had
got their feet on dry ground, they could then
cafe Nature with as much freedom as any
other Perfon ; and therefore he carried a large
green Turff of Earth to the Boat, and placed
the green fide uppermoft , without telling the
reafon. One of thefe Men who was fubject to
the Infirmity above-mention'd, perceiving an
Earthen Turff in the Boat, was furpriz'd at
the fight of it, and enquir'd for what purpoſe
it was brought thither ? He that laid it there
anfwer'd, that he had done it to ferve him,
and that when he was difpos'd to eaſe Nature,
he might find himſelf on Land, tho' he was
at Sea. The other took this as an Affront,
fo that from words, they came to blows ; their
fellows with much ado did ſeparate them,
and blam'd him that brought the Turff into
the Boat, fince fuch a Fancy could produce no
6
other effect than a Quarrel. All of them
employ'd their time eagerly in Fishing, untill
fome hours afier, that the angry Man who
before was fo much affronted 量 at the Turff,
was fo ill ofthe Swelling of his Belly as uſual,
that he begg'd of the Crew to row to the
Shoar, but this was very diſobliging to them
all , he that intended to try the Experiment
with the Turff, bid the Sick Man ftand on it,
and he might expect to have fuccefs by it ;
but
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 189

but he refus'd, and ſtill refented the affront


which he thought was intended upon him ; but
at laft all the Boats Crew urg'd him to try
what the Turff might produce, fince it could
not make him worse than he was. The Man

being in great pain, was by their repeated Im-


portunities prevail'd upon to ftand with his
Feet on the Turff, and it had the wifhed effect,
for Nature became obedient both ways, and
then the angry Man changed his note, for he
thanked his Doctor, whom he had fome hours
before beat ; and from that time none of theſe
three Men ever went to Sea without a green
Turff in their Boat, which prov'd effectual.
This is matter of Fact fufficiently known and
attefted by the better part of the Parishioners
ftill living upon the Place.

THE ancient way the Iflanders us'd to pro-


cure Sweat was thus ; a part of an Earthen
Floor was cover'd withFire, and when it was fuf-
ficiently heated , the Fire was taken away, and
the ground cover'd with a heap of Straw, upon
this Straw a quantity of Water was poured ,
and thePatient lying on the Straw, the heat of it
put his whole Body into a ſweat.

TO caufe any particular part of the Body


to Sweat, they dig an hole in an Earthen Floor,
and fill it with Hazel Sticks, and dry Rufhes ;
above theſe they put a Hectick Stone red hot,
and pouring fame water into the hole, the Pa-
tient
190 A Deſcription of the
tient holds the part affected over it, and this
procures a ſpeedy Sweat.

THEIR common way of procuring Sweat,


is by drinking a large draught of Water-gruel,
with fome Butter, as they go to Bed.

Of the various effects of Fishes on several


Conftitutions in theſe Iſlands.

ONGAL-MACK-EWAN became Fever

D iſh always after eating Fish of any kind,


except Thornback, and Dog-Fiſh.

A Ling-Fifh having brown spots on the Skin,


cauſes fuch as eat of its Liver, to caft their
Skin from head to foot. This happened to
three Children in the Hamlet Taliskir, after
eating the Liver of a brown spotted Ling.

FINLAY ROSS, and his Family, in the


Pariſh of Uge, having eat a freſh Ling-Fish,
with brown spots on its Skin , he and they
became indifpofed and Feverish for ſome few
days, and in a little time after they were bli
fter'd all over. They fay that when the freſh
Ling is falted a few days, it has no fuch
effect. THERE
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 191

THERE was a Horfe in the Village Bretill,


which had the Erection backward , contrary to
all other of its kind.

A Weaver in Portrie has a Faculty of


erecting and letting fall his Ears at pleaſure,
and opens and fhuts his mouth on fuch occa
fions,

A Boy in the Caſtle of Duntulm, called


Mifter to a By- Name, hath a Pain and Swel-
ling in his great Toe at every Change ofthe
Moon, and it continues only for the ſpace of
one day, or two at moſt.

ALLEN- MAC-LEOD being about ten years


of age, was taken ill of a Pain which moved
from one part of his Body to another, and
where it was felt the Skin appeared blue ; it
came to his Toe, Thigh, Tefticles, Arms and
Head, when the Boy was bath'd in warm
water he found moſt eaſe ; the hinder part of
his Head which was laſt affected, had a little
fwelling, and a Woman endeavouring to
fqueeze the Humour out of it, by bruising it
on each fide with her Nails, fhe forc'd out at
the fame time a little Animal near an inch in
length, having a white Head fharp pointed ,
.
the reſt of its Body of a red colour, and full
of ſmall feet on each fide ; Animals of this
fort have been ſeen in the Head and Legs of
feveral
192 A Deſcription of the
feveral Perſons in the Ifles, and is diſtinguiſh'd
by the name of Fillan.

Yeft how preferv'd by the Natives.

ROD of Oak offour, five, fix or eight


A inches about, twiſted round like a Wyth,
boil'd in Wort, well dried and kept in a little
bundle of Barley Straw, and being ſteep'd again
in Wort, caufeth it to ferment, and procures
Teft ; the Rod is cut before the middle of May,
and is frequently us'd to furniſh Teft, and being
preferved and us'd in this manner, it ferves for
many years together. I have feen the Experi-
ment tried, and was fhew'd a piece of a thick
Wyth which hath been preſerved for making
Ale with, for above twenty or thirty years.

. The
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 193

The Effects of eating Hemlock- Root.

ERGUS KAIRD an Emperick, living in


F the Village Talisker, having by a miſtake
eaten a Hemlock-Root, inftead of the White
Wild Carrot ; his Eyes did preſently roll
about, his Countenance became very pale, his
Sight had almoft fail'd him , the Frame of his
Body was all in a strange Convulfion , and his
Pudenda retir'd fo inwardly, that there was no
difcerning whether he had then been Male, or
Female. All the Remedy given him in this
State was a draught of hot Milk , and a little
Aqua-Vire added to it, which he no fooner
drank, but he Vomited preſently after, yet the
Root ftill remain'd in his Stomach. They
continu'd to adminifter the fame Remedy for
the ſpace of four or five hours together, but
in vain, and about an hour after they ceas'd to
give him any thing, he voided the Root by
Stool, and then was reftor'd to his former
ftate of health ; he is ftill living, for any thing
I know, and is of a ſtrong healthful Conſti-
tution.

SOME few years ago, all the Flax in the


Barrony of Troterness was over- run with a
great quantity of Green Worms, which in a
few days would have deſtroy'd it, had not a
Flock of Ravens made a Tour round the
N ground
194 A Deſcription of the

ground where the Flax grew, for the ſpace of


fourteen Miles , and eat up the Worms in a
very ſhort time.

THE Inhabitants of this lfle are generally


well proportion'd, and their Complection is
for the moſt part black. They are not oblig'd
to Art in forming their Bodies, for Nature ne-
ver fails to act her part bountifully to them;
and perhaps there is no part of the habitable
Globe where fo few Bodily Imperfections are
to be ſeen, nor any Children that go more
early. I have obferv'd feveral of them walk
alone before they were ten Months old ; they
are bath'd all over every Morning and Evening,
fome in cold, fome in warm water ; but the
latter is moſt commonly us'd, and they wear
nothing ftrait about them. The Mother ge-
nerally fuckles the Child, failing of which, a
Nurfe is provided, for they feldom bring up
any by hand ; they give New- born Infants
fresh Butter to take away the Miconium, and
this they do for ſeveral days ; they taſte nei-
ther Sugar, nor Cinamon, nor have they any
daily allowance of Sack beſtowed on them, as
the Cuſtom is elſewhere, nor is the Nurfe al-
lowed to tafte Ale.

THE Generality wear neither Shooes or


Stockings b.fore they are feven, eight or ten
years old, and many among them wear no
Night- Caps before they are fixteen years old,
and
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 195

and upwards ; fome ufe none all their life


time, and theſe are not fo liable to Headaches;
as others who keep their Heads warm.

THEY ufe nothing by way of prevention


of Sickness, obferving it as a Kule to do little
or nothing of that nature. The abftreniouf-
nefs of the Mothers is no fmall advantage to
the Children ; they are a very prolifick Peo-
ple, fo that many of their numerous Iffue muft
feek their Fortune on the Continent , and not a
few in Foreign Countries, for want of Im-
ployment at home. When they are any way
Fatigu'd by Travel, or otherways, they fail
not to bath their Feet in warm water, wherein
red Mofs has been boil'd, and rub them with
it going to bed:

THE ancient Cuſtom of rubbing the Body


by a warm hand oppofite to the fire, is now
laid afide, except from the lower part of the
Thigh, downwards to the Ankle ; this they
rub before and behind, in cold weather, and
at going to bed: Their fimple Diet contri-
butes much to their Sate of Health, and long
Life ; feveral among them of my Acquaintance
arriv'd at the Age of Eighty, Ninety, and
upwards ; but the Lady Mack Leod liv'd to the
Age of one hundred and three years ; he had
then a comely head of hair, and a cafe of good
teeth, and always enjoy'd the free uſe of her
underſtanding, untill the Week in which the
died: N 2 THE
196 A Deſcription of the

THE Inhabitants of this and all the Wes


fern fles, do wear their Shooes after Mr. Lock's
mode, in his Book of Education ; and among
other great advantages by it, they reckon theſe
two : That they are never troubled with the
Gout, or Corns in their Feet.

THEY lie for the most part on Beds of


Straw, and fome on Beds of Heath ; which
latter being made after their way, with the
tops uppermoft, are almoſt as foft as a Fea
ther- bed, it yields a pleafant fcent after lying
on it once. The Natives by experience have
found it to be effectual for drying fuperfluous
Humours, and ftrengthning the Nerves . It is
very refreſhing after a Fatigue of any kind.
The Picts are faid to have had an Art of Brew-
ing curious Ale with the tops of Heath, but
they refus'd to communicate it to the Scots, and
fo ' is quite loft.

A Native of this Ile requires treble the


Dofe of Phyfick that will ferve one living in
the South of Scotland for a Purge ; yet an
Iflander is eaſier Purged in the South, than at
L
home. Thoſe of the beft Rank are eaſier

wrought on by Purging Medicines , than the


Vulgar.

THE Inhabitants are of all People eaſieſt


Cured ofgreen Wounds ; they are not fo liable
to
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland , &c. 197

to Fevers as others on fuch Occafions ; and


therefore they never cut off Arm, or Leg, tho
never fo ill broke, and take the freedom to
venture on all kind of Meat and Drink, con-
trary to all Rule in fuch cafes, and yet com-
monly recover of their Wounds.

MANY of the Natives upon occafion of


fickneſs, are difpofed to try Experiments, in
which they fucceed fo well, that I could not
hear of the leaft inconvenience attending their
Practice. I shall only bring one Inftance more
of this, and that is of the illiterate Emperick
Neil Beaton in Skie ; who of late is fo well
known in the Ifles and Continent, for his
great fuccefs in curing feveral dangerous Di-
ftempers, tho he never appeared in the quality
of a Phyfician until he arrived at the age of
Forty Years, and then alfo without the advan-
tage of Education : He pretends to judge of
the various qualities of Plants, and Roots, by
their different Taftes, he has likewife a Nice
Obfervation of the Colours of their Flowers,
from which he learns their Aftingent and Loofe
ning qualities ; he extracts the Juice of Plants
and Roots, after a Chymical way, peculiar to
himſelf, and with little or no charge.

HE confiders his Patients conftitution be-


fore any Medicine is adminiftred to them ; and

he has form'd fuch a Syſtem for curing Diſeaſes,


as ferves for a Rule to him upon all Occafions
of this Nature. N 3 HE
198 A Defcription of the

HE treats Riverius's, Lilium Medicine, and


fome other Practical Pieces that he has heard of
with Contempt, fince in feveral Inftances it
appears that their Method of Curing has fail'd,
where his had good Success.

SOME of the Diſeaſes Cured by him are as


follows. Running Sores in Legs and Arms,
grievous Head-aches ; he had the boldnefs to
Gut a piece out of a Womans Skull broader
than half a Crown, and by this reſtored her to
perfect Health. A Gentlewoman of my Ac
quaintance having contracted a dangerous Pain
in her Belly, fome days after her being delive-
red of a Child, and ſeveral Medicines were
us'd fhe was thought paft recovery, if the con-
tinued in that Condition a few hours longer;at
laft this Doctor happen'd to come there, and
being imploy'd, apply'd a Simple Plant to the
pait affected, and reſtored the Patient in a
quarter ofan hour after the Application .

One of his Patients told me that he fent him


a Cap interlined with fome Seeds, & to
wear for the Cough, which it remov'd in a lit-
tle time, and it had the like effect upon his
Brother.

THE Succefs attending this Mans Cures


were fo extraordinary, that feveral People
thought his Performances to have proceeded
rather
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 199

rather from a Compact will the Devil , than from


the Vertue of Simples, To obviate this Mr.
Beaton pretends to have had fome Education
from his Father, tho he died when he himſelf
was but a Boy. I have difcours'd him feri-
oufly at different tim s, and am fully fatisfied,
that he uſes no unlawful means for obtaining
his end.

HIS difcourfe of the feveral Conflitutions ,


the qualities of Plants, &c. were more folid
than could be expected from one ofhis Educa-
tion. Several Sick People from remote Ifles
came to him, and fome from the Shire of Rofs,
at 70 Miles diſtance, ſent for his Advice, I left
him very fuccefsful, but can give no further
Account of him fince that time.

THEY are generally a very Sagarious Peo-


ple, quick of Apprehenfion, and even the Vul-
gar exceed all thofe of their Rank, and Educa
tion, I ever yet faw in any other Country.
They have a great Genius for Mufick and Me-
chanicks. I have obſerved feveral of their
Children, that before they could speak , were
capable to diſtinguiſh and make choice of
one Tune before another upon the Violin, for
they appear'd always uneafie until the Tune
which they fancied beſt was play'd, and then 1
they exprefs'd their fatisfaction by the moti-
ons of their Head and Hands.

N 4 THERE
2CO A Deſcription of the

THERE are feveral of 'em, who Invent


Tunes very taking in the South of Scotland,
and elſewhere ; fome Mufitians have endeavou-
red to país for firft Inventers of them by chang
ing their Name, but this has been Impractica
ble, for whatever Language gives the Modern
Name, the Tune ftill continues to ſpeak its
true Original, and of this I have been fhew'd
feveral Inftances.

SOME of the Natives are very dextrous in


engraving Trees, Birds, Deer, Dogs, &c. up-
on Bone, and Horn, or Wood, without any o-
ther Tool than a ſharp pointed Knife.

SEVERAL of both Sexes have a quick


Vein of Pofie, and in their Language (which
is very Emphatick) they compofe Rhyme and
Verfe, both which powerfuly affect the Fancy.
And in my Judgment (which is not fingular in
this matter) with as great force as that of any
Ancient or Modern Poet I ever yet read. They
have generally very retentive Memories, they fee
things at a great diftance. The unhappineſs of
their Education , and their want of Converſe
with Foreign Nations, deprives them of the
opportunity to Cultivate and Beautify their
Genius, which feems to have been form'd by
Nature for great Attainments . And on the
other hand, their Retireneſs may be rather
thought an advantage, at leaſt to their better
part ; according to that of the Hiftorian.
Plus
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c.

Plus valuit apud hos Ignorantia Vitiorum,


quam apud Grecos omnia precepta in Philofopho-
rum. The Ignorance of Vices is more power-
ful among those, than all the Precepts of Phi-
lofophy are among the Greeks.

FOR they are to this day happily Ignorant


of many Vices,that are practifed in the Learn'd
and Polite World : I could mention feveral, for .
which they have not as yet got a Name, or fo
much, as a Notion of them .

THE Diet generally us'd by the Natives,


confifts of fresh Food, for they feldom taft any
that is falted , except Butter ; the generality eat
but little Flesh , and only Perfons of diſtincti-
on eat it every day, and make three Meals,
for all the reft eat only two, and they eat more
Boyl'd than Roafted . Their ordinary Dict is
Butter, Cheeſe, Milk, Potatoes , Colworts ,
Bruchan i. e. Oatmeal and Water boyl'd ; the
Jatter taken with fome Bread is the conſtant
Food of feveral Thouſands of both Sexes in
this and other Ifles, during the Winter, and
Spring ; yet they undergo many Fatigues both
by Sea and Land, and are very healthful. This
verifies what the Poet faith. Populis fat eft
Lymphaque Cerefque. Nature is fatisfied with
Bread and Water.

THERE
202 ADeſcription of the

THERE is no Place fo well ftored with fuch


great quantity of good Beef and Mutton,where
fo little of both is confum'd by eating. They
generally uſe no fine Sawces to entice a falfe
Appetite, nor Brandy, or Tea for Digeſtion,
the purest Water ſerves them in fuch Cafes ; this
together with their ordinary Exerciſe, and the
free Air, preferves their Bodies and Minds in a
regular Frame, free from the various Convulfi
ons that ordinarily attend Luxury. There is
not one of them too Corpulent, nor too Mea
grc.

THE Men-ſervants have always double the


quantity of Bread, &c. that is given to Wo-
men-Servants, at which the latter are no ways
offended, in regard of the many Fatigues by
Sea and Land, which the former undergo.

OON, which in Engliſh fignify's Froath, is a


Dish us'd by feveral of the Iſlanders , and ſome
on the oppofite Main land, in time of ſcarcity,
when they want Bread, it is made in the fol-
lowing manner. A quantity of Milk, or Whey
is boyl'd in a Pot, and then it is wrought up
to the mouth of the Pot with a long Stick of
Wood, having a Crofs at the lower-end ; it is
turn'd about like the Stick for making Choco-
lat, and being thus made it is fupp'd with
Spoons ; it is made up five or fix times, in the
fame manner,andthe laſt is always reckon'dbeſt,
and
Weſtern Inlands of Scotland, &c. 203
and the first two or three froathings the worſt ;
the Milk or Whey that is in the bottom ofthe
Pot is reckon'd much better in all reſpects than
fimple Milk. It may be thought that fuch as
feed after this rate, are not fit for action of
any kind, but I have ſeen ſeveral that liv'd up-
on this fort of Food, made of Whey only, for
fome Months together, and yet they were
able to undergo the ordinary Fatigue of their
Imployments, whether by Sea or Land, and I
have feen them travel to the tops of high
Mountains, as briskly as any I ever faw.

SOME who live plentifully, make this Difh


as above faid of Goats Milk, which is faid to
be nouriſhing ; the Milk is thickned and taſte
much better after ſo much working ; ſome add
a little Butter and Nutmeg to it . I was treated
with this Dish in feveral Places, and being ask'd
whether this faid Difh or Chocolat was beft,
I told them that if we judged by the Effects,
this Diſh was preferable to Chocolat, for fuch
as drink often of the former, enjoy a better ſtate
of Health,than thoſe who uſe the latter.

Graddan
204 A Deſcription of the

Graddan.

'HE ancient way of dreffing Corn, which


T is yet us'd in feveral lles, is call'd
Graddan, from the Irish word Grad ; which
fignifies quick. A Woman fitting down, takes
a handful of Corn, holding it by the Stalks in
her left hand, and then fets fire to the Ears,
which are preſently in a flame ; fhe has a Stick
in her right hand, which the manages very
dextrously, beating off the Grain at the very
Inftant, when the Husk is quite burnt, for if
The miſs of that, fhe muft ufe the Kiln, but
Experience has taught them this Art to per-.
fection. The Corn may be fo dreſſed , wino-
wed ground , and backed, within an Hour
after reaping from the Ground. The Oat- bread
dreffed as above is loolening, and that
drefs'd in the Kiln , Altringent, and of
greater ftrength for Labourers : But they
love the Graddan, as being more agreeable
to their taſte. This barbarous Cuſtom is much
laid afide, fince the Number of their Mills en
creas'd ; Captain Fairweather, Maſter of an En-
glish Veffel, having dropt Anchor at Bernera
of Glenelg over againſt Skie, faw two Women
at this Imployment, and wondring to ſee ſo
much Flame and Smoak , he came near , and

finding that it was Corn they burnt, he run


away in great haft, telling the Natives that
he
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 205

he had feen two Mad-women very bufie burn-


ing Corn ; the People came to fee what the
matter was, and laugh'd at the Captain's Mi-
ſtake, tho' he was not a little furpriz'd at the
ftrangeness of a Cuftom that he had never feen
or heard of before.

THERE are two Fairs of late held yearly


at Portry on the Eaft fide of Skie : the Conve-
nience of the Harbour which is in the middle
of the Ifle, made ' em chufe this for the fittest
Place. The firft • holds about the middle of
June, the fecond about the beginning of Sep-
tember. The various Products of this and he
adjacent Ifles, and Continent, are Sold here :
viz. Horfes, Cows, Sheep, Goats, Hides,
Skins, · Butter, Cheefe, Fish, Wooll, &c.

ALL the Horfes and Cows Sold at the


Fair, fwim to the Main Land over one of the
Ferries or Sounds cailed Kyles , one of which
is on the Eaft, the other on the South fide of
Skie. That on the Eait is about a Mile broad,
and the other on the South is half a Mile ':
They begin when it is near Low Water, and
faſten a twiſted Wyth about the lower Jaw of
each Cow, the other end of the Wyth is
faſtned to another Cows Tail, and the number
fo tied together is commonly five. A Boat
with four Ŏars rows off, and a Man fitting in
the Stern, holds the Wyth in his hand to keep
up the foremoft Cows head, and thus all the
five
206 A Deſcription of the
five Cows ſwim as fast as the Boat rows ; and
in this manner above an hundred may be Fer-
ried over in one day: Thefe Cows are fome-
times drove above 400 Miles further South ;
they foon grow Fat, and prove fweet and
tender Beef.

Their Habit.

HE firft Habit wore by Perfons of Di-


T ftinction in the Iflands, was the Leni-
Creich, from the Irish word Leni, which fig-
nifies a Shirt, and Croch Saffron, becauſe their
Shirt was died with that Herb : the ordinary
number of Ells us'd to make this Robe was
twenty four ; it was the upper Garb, reaching
below the knees, and was tied with a Belt
round the middle ; but the Iſlanders have laid
it afide about a hundred years ago.

THEY now generally uſe Coat, Waſtcoat,


and Breeches, as elſewhere, and on their
Heads wear Bonnets made of thick Cloth,
fome blew, fome black, and fome gray. *

MANY of the People wear Trowis, fome


have them very fine Woven like Stockings of
thoſe made of Cloath ; fome are colour d,
and
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland ,&c. 207

and others ftriped ; the latter are as well


r
fhap'd as the former, lying cloſe to the Body
from the middle downwards, and tied round
with a Belt above the Haunches. There is a
fquare piece of Cloth which hangs down be-
fore. The meaſure for fhaping the Trowis is
a Stick⚫ ofWood whofe length is a Cubit, and
that divided into the length of a finger, and
half a finger ; fo that it requires more skill to
make it, than the ordinary Habit.

THE Shooes anciently wore, was a piece


of the Hide of a Deer, Cow, or Horſe, with
the Hair on, being tied behind and before
with a Point of Leather. The Generality now
wear Shooes having one thin Sole only, and
fhaped after the right and left Foot ; fo that
what is for one Foot, will not ferve the
other.

BUT Perfons of Diftinction wear the


Garb in Faſhion in the South of Scotland.

THE Plad wore only by the Men, is made


of fine Wool, the Thread as fine as can be
made of that kind ; it confifts of divers Co-
lours, and there is a great deal of ingenuity
requir'd in forting the Colours, fo as to be a
greeable to the niceft Fancy. For this reafon
the Women are at great pains, first to give an
exact Pattern of the Plade upon a piece of
Wood, having the number of every thread of
the
208 A Defcription of the

the ſtripe on it. The length of it is commonly


feven double Ells ; the one end hangs by the
middle over the left Arm, the other going
round the Body, hangs by the end over the
left Arm alfo. The right hand above it is to
be at liberty to do any thing upon occafion.
Every ' e differs from each other in their
Fancy of making Plaids, as to the Stripes in
Breadth , and Colours . This Humour is as
different thro' the main Land ofthe Highlands,
infofar that they who have feen thofe Places,
is able at the first view of a Man's Plaid, to
guefs the place of his Refidence.

WHEN they Travel on Foot, the Plaid is


tied on the breaft with a Bodkin of Bone or

Wood, (juſt as the Spina wore by the Ger


mans, according to the defcription of C. Ta-
citus ; ) the Plaid is tied round the middle
with a Leather Belt ; it is pleated from the
Belt to the Knee very nicely ; this Dreſs for
Footmen is found much easier and lighter than
Breeches, or Trawis.

THE ancient Drefs wore by the Women,


and which is yet wore by fome of the Vulgar,
called Arifid, is a white Plade, having a few
fmall Stripes of black, blew , and red ; it
reached from the Neck to the Heels, and was
tied before on the Breaft with a Buckle of
Silver, or Brafs, according to the Quality of
the Perfon. I have feen fome of the former
of
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 209

ofan hundred Marks value ; it was broad as


any ordinary Pewter Plate, the whole curi-
There was a leff Bucarious Animals , &c.
ouſly engraven er
with
which was wore in
the middle of the larger, and above two Oun-
ces weight ; it had in the Center a large piece
of Chryftal, or fome finer Stone , and this
was fet all round with feveral finer Stones of
a leffer ſize.

THE Plad being pleated all round, was


tied with a Belt below the Breaft ; the Belt was
of Leather, and feveral pieces of Silver inter-
mix'd with the Leather like a Chain. The

lower end of the Belt has a piece of Plate a-


bout eight inches long, and three in breadth ,
curiouſly engraven ; the end of which was
adorned with fine Stones, or pieces of Red
Corral. They wore Sleeves of Scarlet Cloth,
clos'd at the end as Mens Vests , with gold
Lace round ' em , having Plate Buttons ſet with
fine Stones. The Head drefs was a fine Ker-
chief of Linen ftrait about the Head, hanging
down the back taper- wife ; a large Lock of
Hair hangs down their Cheeks above their
Breaft, the lower end tied with a knot of
Ribbands.

THE Iflanders have a great refpect for their


Chief and Head of Tribes, and they conclude
Grace after every Meal , with a Petition to
God for their Welfare and Profperity. Nei
Q thef
210 A Deſcription of the
ther will they , as far as in them lies, fuffer
them to fink under any Misfortune : But in
cafe of a decay of Eftate , make a voluntary
Contribution on their behalf, as a common
Duty, to ſupport the Credit of their Families.

Way of Fighting.

HE Ancient way of Fighting was by


THfet Battles, and for Arms fome had
broad two handed Swords, and Head- pieces,
and others Bows and Arrows. When all their
Arrows were ſpent, they attack'd one another
with Sword in hand. Since the Invention of
Guns , they aere very early accuſtomed to
use them, and carry their Pieces with them
wherever they go : They likewife learn to
handle the broad Sword, and Target. The
Chief of each Tribe advances with his Fol-
lowers within ſhot of the Enemy, having firſt
laid afide their upper Garments ; and after
one General diſcharge, they attack them with
Sword in hand, having their Target on their
left hand, ( as they did at Kelicranky ) which
foon brings the Matter to an Iffue, and verifies
the Obfervation made of 'em by our Hiſto-
rians,
Aut mors cito, aut victoria lata.
THIS
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 211

THIS Ifle is divided into three Parts, which


are poffefs'd by different Proprietors . The

Southern part call'd Slait, is the Property and


Title of Sir Donald Mick Donald, Knight and
Baronet ; his Family is always diftinguiſh'd
from all the Tribes of his Name, by the Irish
as well as English, and call'd Mack Donald
abfolutely, and by way of Excellence ; he
being reckoned by Genealogifts, and all others,
the first for Antiquity among all the Ancient
Tribes, both in the Ifles and Continent. He
is Lineally defcended from Sommerled, who
according to Buchannan, was Thane of Argyle ;
he got the Ifles into his Poffeffion by Vertue
of his Wifes Right ; his Son was called Do-
nald, and from him all the Families of the
Name Mack Donald are defcended. He was
the first of that Name, who had the Title of
King of the Ifles. One of that Name Sub-
fcribing a Charter granted by the King of
Scots to the Family of. Roxburgh, writes as
follows : Donald King of the Iles Witness.
He would not pay Homage to the King for
the Ifles, but only for the Lands which he
held of him on the Continent.

ONE of Donald's Succeffors Married a


Daughter of King Robert the 2d, the first of
the Name of Stuart, by whom he acquired
feveral Lands in the Highlands. The Earl-
dom of Refs came to this Family, by Marrying
O 2 the
212 A Deſcription of the
the Heircfs of the Houfe of Lefly. One of
the Earls of Rofs called John, being of an
eafie Temper, and too liberal to the Church,
and to his Vaffals and Friends, his Son
Eneas, (by Buchannan called Donald ) was
fo oppofite to his Father's Conduct , that he
gather'd together an Army to oblige him
from giving away any more of his Eftate.
The Father rais'd an Army againſt his Son,
and Fought him at Sea, on the Coaſt of Mull,
the Place is fince call'd the Bloody-Bay ; the
Son however had the Victory. This difpofed
the Father to go ftraight to the King, and
make over the Right of all his Eftate to him.
The Son kept Poffeffion fome time after ;
however this occafion'd the fall of that great
Family, tho' there are yet extant feveral an-
cient Tribes of the Name, both in the Ifles
and Continent. Thus far the Genealogiſt

Mack Uurich, and Hugh Mack Donald in their


Manufcripts,

THE next adjacent Part to Slait, and


joyning it on the North fide, is Strath ; it is
the Property of the Laird of Mack Kinnon,
Head of an ancient Tribe.

ÓN the North Weft fide of Strath lies


that part of Skie called Mackleod's Countrey,
Poffefs'd by Mackleod. Genealogifts ſay he
is Lineally defcended from Leod, Son to
the
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &:.
213
the Black Prince of Man ; he is Head of an
ancient Tribe.

THE Baronny of Troterness on the North.


fide Skie, belongs to Sir Donald Mack Donald ;
the Proprietors and all the Inhabitants are
Proteftants, except twelve, who are Roman-
Catholicks. The former obferve the Feſtivals
of Christmass, Eafter, Good- Friday, and that of
St. Michael's. Upon the latter they have a
Cavalcade in each Parish, and feveral Families
bake the Cake called St. Michael's Bannock.

0 3 BOOT
214 A Deſcription of the

BOOT.

HE Ifle of Boot being ten Miles in


T length, lies on the Weft-fide of Cowal,
from which it is feparated by a narrow Chan-
nel ; in feveral parts not a Mile broad, the
North end of this Ifle is Mountanous and
Heathy, being more defign'd for Paſturage,
than Cultivation ; the Mold is brown, or
black, and in fome parts Clayie, the Ground
yields a good produce of Oats, Barley, and
Peaſe : There is but little Wood growing there,
yet there is a Coppice at the fide of Loch-fad.
The Ground is arable from the middle to the
Southward, the Hectic-ftone is to be had in ma-
ny parts of this Ifle ; and there is a Quarry of
red ftone near the Town of Rofa, by which
the Fort there, and the Chappel on its North-
fide have been built. Rothfay, the head
Town ofthe Shire of Boot and Aran, lies on
the East Coaſt of Boot, and is one of the Titles
of the Prince of Scotland ; King Robert the Third
created his Son Duke of Rothfay, and Steward
of Scotland ; and afterwards Queen Mary crea-
ted the Lord Darnley Duke of Rothſay, before
her Marriage with him : This Town is a very
ancient Royal Burrough, but thinly Peopled,
there not being above a hundred Families in it,
and they have no forreign Trade : On the North-
fide of Rothfay, there is a very ancient Ruinous
Fort
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 215

Fort,round in Form, having a thick Wall, and


about three Stories high, and Paffages round
within the Wall ; it is furrounded with a wet
Ditch ; it has a Gate on the South, and a double
Gate on the East, and a Baftion on each fide
the Gate, and without thefe there's a Draw-
Bridge,and the Sea flows within 40 Yards ofit.
The Fort is large enough for exercifing a Bat-
tallion of Men, it has a Chappel and ſeveral
little Houſes within ; and a large Houſe of
four Stories high, fronting the Eastern- Gate.
The People here have a Tradition thar this
Fort was built by King Rofa, who is faid to
have come to this Ifle before King Fergus the
Firft. The other Forts are Down-Owle, and
Down-Allin, both on the Weft fide.

The Churches here are as follow, Kilmichel,


Kil-Blain, and Kil-Chattan, in the South Parish ;
and Lady Kirk in Rothfay is the moſt Northerly
Pariſh, all the Inhabitants are Proteſtants.

THE Natives here are not troubled with

any Epedemical Diſeaſe, the Small pox vifits


them commonly once every fixth, or feventh
Year ; the oldeſt Man now living in this ifle is
one Fleming a Weaver in Rotfay, his Neigh-
bours told me that he could never cafe Nature
at Sea, who is 90 Years of Age . The inha-
bitants generally fpeak the English and Iriſh
Tongue, and wear the fame Habit with thofe
of the other Iflands ; they are very Induſtrious
O 4 Fifhers
216 Deſcription of the

Fifhers efpecially for Herring, for which uſe


they are furnished with about 80 large Boats,
the Tenants pay their Rents with the profit of
Herrings, they are to be had any where on
the Western Coaft.

THE Principal Heretors here are Stuart of


Boot, who is Hereditary Sheriff of this Shire,
and hath his Seat in Rofa. Ballantine of Keams,
whofe Seat is at the Head of the Bay of that
Name, and has an Orchard by it. Stuart of
Efcick, whofe Seat has a Park and Orchard,
and about a Mile to the South of Rothfay, next
lies two Ifles called Cumbray the greater, and
the leffer, the former is within a League of
Boot,this Ifland has a Chappel , and a Well,which
the Natives efteem a Catholicon for all Diſea-

fes ; this Ifle is a Mile in length, but the other


Ifle is much leſs in Compaſs, both Iſles are the
property of Montgommery of Skelmorly.

ARRAN
Weſtern Islands of Scotland, &c. 217

ARRAN.

'HE Name of this Ifle is by fome derived


T from Arran, which in the Irish Language
fignifies Bread :Others think it comes more pro-
bably from Arjn, or Arfyn, which in their Lan-
guage is as much, as the Place of the Giant

Fin- Mac-Couls Slaughter or Execution ; for


Aar fignifies Slaughter, and fo they will have
Arin only the Contraction of Arrin or Fin ;
the received Tradition of the great Giant Fin-
Mac-Cowls Military Valour, which he exerci-
fed upon the Ancient Natives here, feems to
favour this Conjecture ; this they lay is evident
from the many Stones fet up in divers Places of
the Ifle, as Monuments upon the Graves of
Perfons of Note that were kill'd in Battle. This
Ifle is twenty four Miles from South to North,
and feven Miles from East to Weft. It lies be-
tween the ifle of Boot , and Kyntyre, in the op-
pófite Main-land. The Ifle is high and Moun-
tainous, but flopes on each fide round the
Coaſt, and the Glen is only made ufe of for Til-
lage. The Mountains near Brodick Bay, are
of a confiderable height, all the Hills generally
afford a Good : Pafturage, tho' a great part of
'em be covered only with Heath.

THE
218 A Defcription of the

THE Mold here is of divers Colours, being


black and brown near the Hills, and Clayic
and Sandy upon the Coaſt.

THE Natives told me that fome Places of


the Ifle, affords Fullers-earth . The Coaſt on
the Eaft fide is Rockie near the Shoar ; the
Stones on the Coaft for fome Miles beneath
Brodick, are all of a red Colour, and of theſe
the Caſtle of Brodick is built. The Natives
fay that the Mountains near the Caſtle of
Brodick affords Chryftal, and that the Dutchess
of Hamilton put fo great a Value on it, as to
be at the Charge of cutting a Necklace of it,
which the Inhabitants take as a great Honour
done them, becauſe they have a great Venerati-
on for her Grace. There is no confiderable
Woods here, but a few Coppices, yet that in
the Glen towards the Weft is above a Mile in
length. There are Capacious Fields of Arable
Ground on each fide Brodick Bay, as alfo on the
oppoſite weſtern Coaft . The largeſt and beſt
Field for Pafturage is th t on the South-weſtſide.

SEVERAL Rivers on each fide this Ifle

affords Salmon, particularly the two Rivers on


the West called Mackir fide, and the two in
Kirkmichel and Brodich Bay.

THE Air here is temperately Coid and moiſt,


which is in fome meaſure qualified by the
freſh Breezes that blow from the Hills, but the
Natives think a dram of Strong- waters is a
good Corrective . THERE
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 219

THERE are ſeveral Caves on the Coaſt of


this Ifle, thoſe on the Weftare pretty large,par-
ticularly that in Druim-cruey, a hundred Men
may fit or lic in it,it is contracted gradually from
the Floor upwards to the Roof, in the upper-
end there is a large piece of a Rock form'd like
a Pillar, there's engaven on it a Deer, and un-
derneath it a two-handed Sword ; there is a
void ſpace on each ſide this Pillar.

THE Southfide of the Cave has a Horfe-


fhoe engraven on it. On each fide the Door,
there's a hole cut out,and that they ſay was for
holding big Trees , on which the Caldrons hang
for boyling their Beefand Veniſon. The Na-
tives fay that this was the Cave in which Fin-
Mac-Cowl lodged during the time of his refi-
dence in this Ifle, and that his Guards lay in
the leffer Caves, which are near this big one ;
there is a little Cave joyning to the largeſt, and
this they call the Cellar.

THERE is a Cave fome Miles more South-


erly on the fame Coaft, and they told me that
the Miniſter Preached in it fometimes, in re-
gard of its being more Centrical than the Pa-
rifh- Church.

SEVERAL erected Stones are to be ſeen


on each fide this Ifle ; four of theſe are near
Brodich-Bay, about the diſtance of 70 Yards
from
220
A Deſcription of the
from the River, and are feven foot high each,
The higheſt of theſe Stones that fell under
my obſervation was on the South-fide of Kirk-
michel River, and is above fifteen foot high ;
there is a Stone Coffin near it which has been
fill'd with Humane Bones , until of late that
the River washed away the Earth, and the
Bones that were in the Coffin ; Mac- Loui, who
had ſeen them , fays they were of no larger
fize than thofe of our own time. On the West-
fide there are three Stones erected in Baellimia-
nich,and a fourth at fome diftance from theſe,
about fix Foot high each. In theMoor on theEaft.
fide Druin-cruey, there is a Circle of Stones, the
Area is about thirty Paces ; there is a Stone of
fame ſhape and kind about fortyPaces to theWeft
of the Circle, the Natives fay that this
Circle was made by the Giant Fin-Mac-
Cowl, and that to the fingle Stone Bran-Fins-
Mac-Cowls Hunting- dog was ufually tied. A-
bout half a Mile to the North-fide Baelliminich
there are twoStones erected each of them eight
Foot high .

THERE is a Circle of Big-ftones a little to


the South of Druin Cruey, the Area of which is
about twelve Paces ; there is a broad thin
Stone in the middle of this Circle, ſupported .
by three leffer Stones, the Ancient Inhabitants
are reported to have burnt their Sacrifices on
the broad Stone, in time of Heatheniẩm .

THERE
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 221
THERE is a thin broad Stone tapering to-
wards the top, erected within a quarter of a
Mile of the Sea, near Machir River, and is
nine Foot high, and at fome little diſtance from
the River, there is a large Cavern of Stones.

THERE is an Eminence of about a thouſand


Paces in Compafs on the Sea Coaft in Druim- 1
cruney Village, and it is fenced about with a
Stone-Wall Of old it was aSanctuary,and what-
ever number of Men or Cattle could get with- ´
in, it was fecured from the affaults of their E-
nemies , the Place being privileged by Uni-
verfal Confent.

THE only good Harbour in this Ifle is La-


mlash, which is in South- east end ofthe Ifle of
that Name.

THERE is a great fiſhing of Cod , and Whit-


ing, in and about this Bay.

THE whole Iſle is defign'd by Nature more


for Pafturage, than Cultivation ; the Hills are
generally covered all over with Heath, and pro-
duce a mixture ofthe Erica- Baccifera, Cats-tail
and Juniper, all which are very agreeable to
the Eye in the Summer. The higheſt Hills
of this Iſland are ſeen at a confiderable diſtance

from ſeveral parts of the Continent and North-


west lles, and they ferve inftead of a Forreſt to
maintain the Deer, which are about four hun-
dred
222 A Deſcription of the

dred in number, and they are carefully kept


by a Forreſter, to give fport to the Duke of
Hamilton, or any of his Family that go a
Hunting there. For if any of the Natives
happen to kill a Deer without Licenſe, which
is not often granted, he is liable to a Fine of
201. Scots for each Deer. And when they

grow too numerous, the Forrefter grants Li


cenfes for killing a certain number of them,
on condition they bring the Skins to himſelf.

THE Cattle here are Horfes and Cows of


a middle fize, and they have alfo Sheep and
Goats. This Ifle affords the common Sea and
Land Fowls that are to be had in the Weſtern
Ifles. The black Cock is not allow'd to be
killed here without a Licenſe, the Tranf
greffors are liable to a Fine.

THE Caſtle of Brodich on the North fide


of the Bay of that Name, ftands on a Plain ,
from which there is about 400 Paces of a
gradual deſcent towards the Sea.

THIS Caſtle is built in a long Form, from


South to North there is a Wall of two Stories
high that encompaffes the Caſtle and Tower ;
the space within the Wall on the South fide
the Caftle, is capable of muſtring a Battalion
of Men.

THE
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 223

THE Caftle is four Stories high, and has a


Tower of greater height joined to the North
fide,and that has a Baftion cloſe to it, to
which a lower Baſtion is added . The South
and Weft fides are furrounded with a broad
wet Ditch, but the Eaft and North fides have
a deſcent which will not admit of a wet Ditch.
The Gate looks to the Eaft. This Caſtle is
the Duke of Hamiltons Seat, when is Grace or
any of the Family make their Summer Vifit to
this Ifland . The Bayliff or Steward has his
Refidence in this Caftle, and he has a Deputa-
tion to act with full power to Levy the Rents,
give Leaſes of the Lands, and hold Courts of
Juſtice.

THERE is another Caſtle belonging to the


Duke in the North fide the Ifle, at the head of
Loch Keniftil, in which there is an Harbour
for Barks and Boats. The Isle of Arran is the
Duke of Hamiltons Property (a very ſmall
part excepted) it lies in the Sheriffdom of Boot,
and made part ofthe Diocefs of Argyle.

THE Inhabitants of this Ifland are compo-


fed of feveral Tribes. The most ancient Fa-
mily among them, is by the Natives reckon'd
to be Mack Louis, which in the ancient Lan-
guage fignifies the Son of Lewis ; they own
themſelves to be deſcended ofFrench Parentage,
their Sirname in English is Fullerton, and their
Title
224 A Defcription of the
Title Kirk Michell, the Place of their Refidence
If Tradition be true , this little Family is faid to
be of 700 years ftanding. The pretent Poffef-
for oblig'd me with the fight of his old and
new Charters, by which he is one of the Kings
Coroners within this Ifland , and as fuch, he
hath a Halbert peculiar to his Office ; he has
his right of late from the Family of Hamilton,
wherein his Title and Perquifites of Coroner
are confirm'd to him and his Heirs. He is
oblig'd to have three Men to attend him upon
all Publick Emergencies, and he is bound by
his Office to purfue all Malefactors, and to de-
liver them to the Steward, or in his abfence to
the next Judge. And if any of the Inhabitants
refufe to pay their Rents at the ufual term, the
Coroner is bound to take him Perſonally , or to
feize his Goods. And if it fhould happen that
the Coroner with his retinue of three Men is
not fufficient to put his Office in execution,
then he Summons all the Inhabitants to con-

curr with him, and immediately they rendez-


vous to the place, where he fixes his Corners
Staff. The Perquifites due to the Coroner are
a Firlet or Bufhel of Oats, and a Lamb from
every Village in the Ifle, both which are pun-
ctually paid him at the ordinary Terms.

THE Inhabitants of this Ifle are well pro-


portion'd, generally Brown, and fome of a
Black Complection ; they enjoy a good ſtate
of health, and have a genius for all Callings or

Imploy⚫
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland , &c. 225

Imployments, tho' they have but few Mecha-


nicks ; they wear the fame Habit with thofe
of the neareſt Ifles, and are very Civil ; they
all speak the Irish Language, yet the English
Tongue prevails on the Eaft fide, and ordina-
rily the Minifters Preach in it, and in Irish on
the Weft fide. Their ordinary affeveration is
by Nale, for I did not hear any Oath in the
Iſland.

The Churches in this Ifle are,

ILBRIDE in the South Eaſt, Kilmore in


K the South, Cabel Uual a Chapel , Kil-
michel in the Village of that name, St. James's
Church at the North end.

THE Natives are all Proteftants, they ob


ſerve the Feſtivals of Chriſtmaſs, Good-Friday,
and Eafter. I had like to have forgot a valu-
able Curioſity in this Ile, which they call
Baul Muluy. i. e. Molingus his Stone Globe ;
this Saint was Chaplain to Mack Donald of the
Ifles ; his Name is Celebrated here on the ac-
count of this Globe, fo much eſteem'd by the
Inhabitants. This Stone for its intrinfick value
has been carefully tranfmitted to Pofterity for
P feveral
226 A Deſcription of the
feveral Ages. It is a green Stone much like a
Globe in Figure, about the bigness of a Gooſe
Egg.

1 THE Vertues of it is to remove Stiches


from the fides of Sick Perfons, by laying it
clofe to the Place affected , and ifthe Patient
does not out- live the Distemper, they ſay the
Stone removes out ofthe Bed of its own accord,
and e contra. The Natives ufe this Stone for
Swearing decifive Oaths upon it.

THEY afcribe another extraordinary Ver-


tue to it, and 'tis this ; the credulous Vulgar
1
firmly believe that if this Stone is caft among
the Front of an Enemy, they will all run away,
and that as often as the Enemy rallies, if this
Stone is caft among them, they ſtill loſe Cou-
rage, and retire. They fay that Mackdonald
of the Ifles carried this Stone about him, and
that Victory was always on his fide when he
threw it among the Enemy. The Cuftody of
this Globe is the peculiar Privilege of a little
Family called Clan- Chattons, alias Mack Intosh,
they were ancient Followers of Mack Donald of
the Iles. This Stone is now in the Cuftody
of Margaret Millar, alias Mack Intosh, the lives
in Baellmianich, and preferves the Globe with
abundance of care ; it is wrapped up in fair
Linen Cloath, and about that there is a piece
ofWoollen Cloath, and the keeps it ſtill lock'd
up in her Cheft, when it is not given out to
exert its qualities . ISLESAT.
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland , &c. 227

IS LESAY.

'S A big about fix Leagues to the


Rock,
Is South Weft of Arran, it rifes in form of a
Sugar- Loaf, but the top is plain, and large
enough for drawing up a thoufand Men in
Ranks ; there is a Fresh Water Lake in the
middle of the Plain, the whole Ifle is covered
with long Grafs, and is inacceffible, except on
the South Weft fide, by a ftair cut out in the
Rock ; in the middle of it there is a fmall
Tower of three Stories high with the top.
There is a Freſh Water Spring iffuing out of
the fide ofthis great Rock ; below the Entry
there is a place where the Fiſhers take up their
Refidence during their ſtay about this Rock in
queft of Cod, and Ling ; and there is a good
Anchorage for their Veffels, very near their
Tents.

THIS Rock in the Summer time abounds


with variety of Sea Fowl that build and hatch
in it. The Solan Geefe and Culturneb are moſt
numerous here ; the latter are by the Fiſhers
called Albanich, which in the ancient Irish
Language fignifies Scots Men.

THE Iſle hath a Chappel on the top called


Fiunnay, and an ancient Pavement, or Cauſe,
way .
P 2 ISLESAT
228 A Deſcription of the

ISELESAT is the Earl of Ceffil's Property,


the Tenant who Farms it pays him one hun-
dred Merks Scots yearly ; the product of the
Ifle is Hogs, Fowl, Down , and Fifh. The Ifle
Avon above a Mile in Circumference, lies to the
S. of Kintyre Mule, it hath a Harbour for Barks
on the North .

The Ifle GIGAY.

HE Ifle Gigay, lies about a League from


TH Lergie on the West -fide of Kyntyre, it is
four Miles in length, and one in breadth, was
formerly in the Diocefs, and is ftill part ofthe
Sheriffdom of Argyle. This Ifle is for the moſt
part Arable, but Rockie in other parts ; the
Mold is brown, and Clayie inclining to red ;
it is good for Pafturage and Cultivation. The
Corn growing here is Oats and Barley . The
Cattle bred here are Cows, Horfes, and Sheep.
There is a Church in this Ifland called Kil- chat-
tan, it has an Altar in the Eaft end, and upon
it a Font of Stone which is very large, and
hath a fmall hole in the middle which goes
quite through it. There are feveral Tomb-
ftones in and about this Church ; the Family
of the Mack Nils, the principal Poffeffors
ofthis Ifle are buried under the Tomb-ftones
on the Eaft fide the Church, where there is a
Plat of ground fet apart for them. Moſt of
all
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &:. 229
all the Tombs have a two-handed Sword en
graven on them, and there is one that has the
repreſentation of a Man upon it.

NEAR the Weft fide the Church there is


a Stone of about 16 Foot high, and 4 broad,
erected upon the Eminence. About 60 yards
diſtance from the Chappel there is a quare
Stone erected about ten Foot high at this the
ancient Inhabitants bowed, becaufe it was
there where they had the first view of the
Church.

THERE is a Crofs 4 Foot high at a little


diſtance, and a Cavern of Stone on each fide
of it.

THIS Ifle affords no Wood of any kind,


but a few Buſhes of Juniper on the little Hills.
The ftones upon which the fcurff Corkir,
which dies a Crimſon colour, grows here, as
alfo thoſe that produce the Crettil, which dies
a Philamot colour. Some of the Natives told
me that they us'd to chew Nettles, and hold
them to their Noftrils to flanch bleeding at the
Nofe, and that Nettle being applied to the
place, would alfo ſtop bleeding at a Vein, or
otherwife.

THERE is a Well in the North end of this

Ifle called Toubir- more, i. e. a great Well , be


cauſe of its effc &s, tor which it is Famous
P 3 among
230 A Deſcription of the
among the Iflanders ; who together with the
Inhabitants ufe it as a Catholicon for Diſeaſes.
It's cover'd with Stone and Clay, becauſe the
Natives fancy that the ftream that flows from
it might overflow the Ifle ; and it is always
opened by a Diroch, i. e. an Inmate, elfe they
think it would not exert its Vertues. They
aſcribe one very extraordinary effect to it, and
'tis this ; That when any Foreign Boats are
Wind-bound here (which often happens) the
Maſter ofthe Boat ordinarily gives the Native
that lets the Water run a piece of Money, and
they fay that immediately afterwards the Wind
changes in favour of thofe that are thus de-
tain'd by contrary Winds. Every Stranger
that goes to drink of the water of this Well ,
is accuſtomed to leave on its ftone Cover a
piece of Money, a Needle, Pin, or one of the
prettieft varieated Stones they can find.

THE Inhabitants are all Proteſtants , and


fpeak the Irish Tongue generally, there being
but few that speak English ; they are grave and
referv'd in their Converfation, they are accu-
ftom'd not to bury on Friday ; they are Fair or
Brown in Complection, and uſe the fame Ha
bit, Diet, &c. that is made ufe of in the adja-
cent Continent and Ifles. There is only one
Inn in this Ile.

THE Ife Caray lies a quarter of a Mile


South from Gigay, it is about a Mile in com-
pals ,
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 231

pafs,affords good Pafturage, and abounds


with Connies. There is an Harbour for
Barks on the North Eaft end of it. This

Ifland is the Property of Mack Alifter of Lergy,


a Family of the Mackdonalds.

JURAH.

HE Ifle of Jurah is by a narrow Chan-


T¹nel of about half a Mile broad, fepara-
ted from Ila. The Natives fay that Jurah is
fo call'd from Dib and Rah, two Brethren who
are believ'd to have been Danes ; the Names
Dib and Rab fignifying as much as without
Grace or Profperity. Tradition fays that theſe
two Brethren fought and killed one another in

the Village Knock Cronm, where there are two


ftones erected of 7 Foot high each , and under
them they fay there are Urns with the ashes of
the two Brothers ; the diſtance between them
is about fixty yards. The file is Mountain-
ous along the middle, where there are four
Hills of a confiderable heighth ; the two
higheſt are well known to Sea-faring Men, by
the Name of the Paps of Jurah ; they are very
confpicuous from all quarters of Sea and Land
in thoſe Parts .

P 4 THIS
232 A Defcription of the

THIS Ifle is twenty four Miles long, and


in fome places fix or feven Miles in breadth ;
it is the Duke of Argyle's Property, and part
of the Sheriffdom of Argyle .

THE Mold is brown and grayish on the


Coaft, and black in the Hills, which are co-
ver'd with Heath , and fome Graſs , that proves

good Pafturage for their Cattle , which are


Horfes, Cows, Sheep, and Goats. There's
variety of Land and Water Fowl here. The
Hills ordinarily have about three hundred Deer
grazing on them, which are not to be hunted
by any without the Steward's Licenfe. This
Ifle is perhaps the wholſomeſt Plat of ground
either in the Ifles or Continent of Scotland, as

appears from the long life of the Natives, and


their ſtate of health, to which the heighth of
the hills is believ'd to contribute in a large
meaſure, by the fresh breezes of wind that
comes from ' em to purifie the Air ; whereas
Ila and Gigay on each fide this Ifle, are much
lower, and are not ſo wholſome by far, being
liable to feveral Diſeaſes that are not here.
The Inhabitants obferve that the Air of this

Place is perfectly pure from the middle of


March, till the end or middle of September.
There is no Epidemical Diſeaſe that prevails
here ; Fevers are but feldom obferv'd by the
Natives, and any kind of Flux is rare ; the
Gout and Agues are not fo much as known by

them,
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 233
them, neither are they liable to Sciatica, Con-
vulfions, Vapours, Palfics, Surfeits , Lethar-
gies, Megrims, Confumptions , Rickets , Pains of
the Stomach, or Coughs, are not frequent here,
and none of them are at any time obferv'd to
become Mad. I was told by feveral of the
Natives, that there was not one Woman died
of Child- bearing there thefe 34 years paſt.
Blood-letting and Purging are not us'd here.

IF any contract a Cough, they uſe Brachan


only to remove it. If after a Fever one chance
to be taken ill of a Stitch, they take a quan-
tity of Lady-wrack, and half as much of Red-
Fog, and boil them in water ; the Patients fit
upon the Veffel, and receive the Fume, which
by experience they find effectual against this
Distemper. Fevers and the Diarhea's are
found here only when the Air is Foggy and
warm in Winter or Summer.

THE Inhabitants for their Diet make ufe of


Beef and Mutton in the Winter and Spring, as
alſo of Fiſh, Butter, Cheeſe, and Milk. The
Vulgar take Brochan frequently for their Diet
during the Winter and Spring ; and Brochan
and Bread us'd for. the space of two days, re-
ftores loft Apetite.
*f
THE Women of all Ranks eat a leffer
quantity ofFood than the Men ; this and their
not wearing any thing ftrait about them, is
believ'd
234 A Deſcription of the

believ'd to contribute much to the health


both ofthe Mothers and Children./

There are feveral Fountains of excellent Wa-


ter in this Ifle, the moft Clebrated of them is
that of the Mountain Beinbrek in the Tarbat,
called Toubir ni Lechkin, that is, the Well in
a ftony deſcent ; it runs Eafterly, and they
commonly reckon it to be lighter by one half
than any other Water in this Ifle ; for tho' one
drink a great quantity of it at a time, the
Belly is not fwelled or any ways burthened by
it. Natives and Strangers find it efficacious
againſt Nauſeouſneſs of the Stomach, and the
Stone. The River Nila receives all the water
that iffues from this Well, and this is the rea-
fon they give why Salmons here are in good-
neſs and taſte far above thoſe of any other Ri
ver whatever. The River ofCrokbreck affords
Salmon alſo , but they are not efteem'd fo good
as thoſe of the River Nilla.

SEVERAL of the Natives have lived to a


great Age, I was told that 2 one of them called
Gillouir Mack Crain lived to have kept one
hundred and eighty Chriftmaffes in his own
houſe ; he died about fifty years ago, and there
are feveral of his acquaintance living to this
day, from whom I had this account.

BAILIF
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 235

BAILIF Campbell lived to the Age of one


hundred and fix years, he died three years ago,

he paffed the thirty three laſt years before his


death in this Ifle. Donald Mac N' Mill, who
lives in the Village of Killearne at prefent, is
arrived at the age of ninety years.

A Woman of the Ifle of Scorba near the


North end of this Ifle, lived fevenſcore years,
and enjoy'd the free ufe of her Senfes and
Underſtanding all her days ; it is now two
years fince fhe died.

THERE is a large Cave called King's -Cave,


on the Weft fide the Tarbat, near the Sea ;
there is a Well at the entry, which renders it
the more convenient for fuch as may have oc-
cafion to Lodge in it.

ABOUT two Miles further from the Tar-


bat, there is a Cave at Corpich which hath an
Altar in it ; there are many ſmall pieces of
pettrified fubftance hanging from the Roof of
this Cave.

THERE is a Place where Veffels ufe to


Anchor on the Weft fide this Ifland, called
Whitfarlan, about 100 yards North from the
Porter's Houſe.

ABOUT
236 A Deſcription of the

ABOUT Four Leagues South from the


North end of this Ifle, lies the Bay Da'l Taul,
which is about half a Mile in length ; there is
a Rock on the North fide the entry, which
they ſay is five Fathom deep, and but three
Fathom within.

ABOUT a League further to the South on


the fame Coaſt, lies the fmall Ifles of Jura,
within which there is a good Anchoring Place,
the South entry is the beft ; Ifland Nin Gowir
muſt be kept on the left hand ; it is eaſily
diſtinguiſh'd by its bigneſs from the reſt of the
fles. Conney Ile lies to the North ofthis
Iſland. There are black and white spotted
Serpents in this Ille ; their head being applied
to the Wound, is by the Natives us'd as the
beft Remedy for their Poiſon. Within a Mile
of the Tarbat there is a Stone erected about
eight Foot high . Loch Tarbat on the Weft

fide, runs Eaſterly for about five Miles, but is


not an harbour for Veffels, or leffer Boats, for
it is altogether Rocky.

THE Shoar on the Weft fide affords Corral,


and Corraline ; there is a fort of Dulſe growing
on this Coaſt, of a white Colour.

BETWEEN the North end of Jura, and


the Ifle Scarba, lies the Famous and Dangerous
Gulph call'd Cory Vrekan, about a Mile in
breadth,
1

Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 237

breadth, it yields an impetuous Current, not


to be matched any where about the Iſle of
Britain. The Sea begins to boil and ferment
with the Tide of Flood, and reſembles the
boiling of a Pot, and then increaſes gradually ,
until it appear in many Whirlpools, which
form themſelves in fort of Pyramids , and im-
mediately after ſpout up as high as the Maſt
of a little Veffel, and at the fame time makes
a loud report. Thefe white Waves run two
Leagues with the wind before they break ; the
Sea continues to repeat theſe various motions
from the beginning of the Tide of Flood, until
it is more than half Flood , and then it decrea-
fes gradually until it hath ebb'd about half
an hour, and continues to boil ' till it is within
an hour of low water. This boiling of the
Sea is not above a Piftol fhot diſtant from the
Coaft of Scarba Ifle, where the white Waves
meet and ſpout up ; they call it the Kaillach,
i. e. an old Hag ; and they fay that when the
puts on her Kerchief, i. e. the whiteft Waves ,
it is then reckon'd fatal to approach her. Not-
withſtanding of this great Ferment of the Sea,'
which brings up the leaſt ſhell from the ground ,
the ſmalleſt Fiſher- Boat may venture to cross
this Gulph at the last hour of the Tide of
Flood, and at the laft hour of the Tide of
Ebb.

THIS Gulph hath its Name from Brekan,


faid to be Son to the King of Denmark, who
was
238 A Deſcription of the
was drowned here, caft a fhoar in the North

of Fura, and buried in a Cave, as appears from


the ſtone Tomb and Altar there.

THE Natives told me that about three


years ago an English Veffel happen'd inadver
tently to pass through this Gulph at the time
when the Sea began to boil ; the whiteness of
the Waves, and their fprouting up, was like
the breaking of a Sea upon a Rock; they
found themſelves attracted irrefiftably to the
white Rock, as they then fuppofed it to be;
this quickly oblig'd them to confult their
fafety, and fo they betook themſelves to the
fmall Boat with all ſpeed, and thought it no
fmall happineſs to Land fafe in Jura, commit-
ting the Veffel under all her Sails to the un-
certain Conduct of Tide and Wind ; fhe was
driven to the oppofite Continent of Knapdale,
where the no fooner arriv'd, than the Tide
and Wind became contrary to one another, and
fo the Veffel was caft into a Creek where fhe
was fafe ; and then the Mafter and Crew were
by the Natives of this Ifle conducted to her,
where they found her as fafe as they left her,
tho' all her Sails were ſtill hoiſted.

THE Natives gave me an account that fome


years ago a Veffel had brought fome Rats hi-
ther, which increaſed ſo much, that they be
came very uneafie to the People, but on a
fuddain
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 239

fuddain they all vanifh'd , and now there is


not one of them in the Ifle.

THERE is a Church here called Killearn,


the Inhabitants are all Proteftants, and obferve
the Feſtivals of Christmas, Eafter, and Michael-
mafs ; they do not open a Grave on Friday,
and bury none on that day, except the Grave
has been opened before.

THE Natives here are very well propor-

tioned, being generally black of Complection ,


and free from bodily imperfections. They
ſpeak the Irish Language, and wear the Plade,
Bonnet, &c. as other Iflanders.

THE Ifle of Ila lies to the Weſt of Jura ,


from which it is ſeparated by a narrow Channel,
it is twenty four Miles in length from South
to North, and eighteen from East to West ;
there are fome little Mountains about the
middle on the Eaft fide ; the Coaft is for the
moſt part heathy, and uneven, and by confe-
quence not proper for Tillage ; the North end
is alfo full of Heaths and Hills ; the South
Weſt and Weft is pretty well Cultivated, and
there is fix Miles between Kilrow on the Weft,
and Port Efcock in the Eaft, which is arable,
and well Inhabited . There's about one thou-
fand little Hills on this Road, and all abound
with Lime-ſtone, among which there is lately
diſcovered a Lead- Mine in three different pla-
ces,
240 A Defcription of the
ces, but it has not turn'd to any account as
yet. The Corn growing here is Barley, and
Oats.

THERE is only one Harbour in this Ifle,


called Loch-Dale, it lies near the North end,
and is of a great length and breadth ; but the
depth being in the middle, few Veffels come
within half a League of the Land fide.

THERE are feveral Rivers in this Inle


affording Salmon . The Fresh water Lakes are
well ſtock'd with Trouts, Eels, and fome with
Salmons, as Loch Guirm, which is four Miles
in Circumference, and hath ſeveral Forts built
on an Iſland that lies in it.

LOCH FINLAGAN about three Miles in


Circumference, affords Salmon, Trouts, and
Eels ; this Lake lies in the Centre of the Ifle.
The Ifle Finlagan, from which this Lake hath
its Name is in it. Its Famous for being once

the Court in which the great Mac Donald King


of the Ifles had his Řefidence, his Houfes,
Chappel, &c. are now ruinous. His Guards
de Corps called Lucht-taek, kept Guard on the
Lake fide neareſt to the Ifle ; the Walls oftheir
Houſes are ftill to be feen there.

THE High Court ofJudicature conſiſting of


Fourteen, Sat always here ; and there was an
Appeal to them from all the Courts in the
Ifles ;
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 241
Ifles ; the eleventh fhare of the Sum in De-
bate was due to the principal Judge. There
was a big Stone of feven Foot fquare, in which
1
there was a deep impreffion made to receive
the Feet of Mack Donald, for he was Crown'd
Kings of the Ifles ftanding in this Stone ; and
Swore that he would continue his Vaffals in
the poffeffion of their Lands, and do exact
Juſtice to all his Subjects ; and then his Fa-
ther's Sword was put into his hand . The
Bishop of Argyle and7 Prieſts Anointed him
King in preſence of all the heads of the Tribes
in the Ifles and Continent, and were his Vaf
fals ; at which time the Orator rehears'd a
Catalogue of his Anceſtors , &c.
1979 7
THERE are feveral Forts built in the Ifles
that are in freſh water Lakes, as in Ilan Loch-
guirn, and Ilan Viceain ; there is a Fort called
Dunnivag in the South Weft fide of the fle,
and there are feveral Caves in different places
of it. A The largeſt that I faw was in the North
end, and is called Uah Vearnag, it will contain
200 Men to ftand or fit in it. There is a

Kiln for drying Corn made on the Eaſt fide of


it ; and on the other fide there's a Wall built
cloſe to the fide of the Cave, which was us'd
for a Bed- Chamber ; it had a fire on the floor,
and fome Chairs about it, and the Bed ftood
cloſe to the Wall. There is a ftone without
the Cave door, about which the Common
People make a Tour Sunways.
A
242 A Deſcription of the

A Mile on the South Weft fide of the Cave,


is the Celebrated Well call'd Tonbir in Knahar,
which in the ancient Language is as much as to
fay, as the Well that fallied from one Place to
another. For it is a receiv'd Tradition among

the Vulgar Inhabitants of this Ifle, and the
3
oppofite Ifle of Collonfay, that this Well was
first in Collonfay, until an imprudent Woman
happen'd to waſh her hands in it, and that im-
mediately after, the Well being thus abus'd,
came in an inftant to Ila, where it is like to
continue , and is ever fince eſteem'd a Catho-
licon for Difeafes by the Natives and adjacent
Iſlanders, and the great refort to it is com-
monly every quarter day.

IT is common with Sick People to make a


Vow to come to the Well, and after drinking,
they make a Tour Sunways round it, and
then leave an Offering of ſome ſmall Token,
fuch as a Pin,Needle, Farthing, or the like, on
the ftone Cover which is above the Well. But
if the Patient is not like to recover, they fend
a Proxy to the Well, who acts as above-men-
tion'd, and carries home fome of the Water to
be drank by the Sick Perfon .

THERE is a little Chappel befide this Well,


to which fuch as had found the benefit of the
Water, came back and return'd thanks to God
for their Recovery.

THERE
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 243
THERE are feveral Rivers on each fide
this Ifle that afford Salmon ; I was told by the
Natives that the Brion of Ila a Famous Judge,
is according to his own defire, buried ftanding

х
on the brink of the River Laggan, having in
his right hand a Spear fuch as they uſe to dart
at the Salmon.

THERE are fome Ifles on the Coaſt of this


Island, as 1find Texa on the South West about
a Mile in Circumference ; and Island Ouirfa
a Mile likewife in Circumference, with the
fmall le called Nave.

The Names of the CHURCHES in this

Ifle are as follows.

IL CHOLLIM-KILL, St. Columbus his


K Church near Port Efcock, Kil Chovan in
the Rins on the Weft fide the Ifle. Kil Chieran
in Rins, on the Weft fide Nerbols in the Rins,
St. Columbus his Church in Laggan, a Chappel
in Iſland Nave, and Killhan Alen North Weſt
of Kidrow. There is a Crofs ftanding near
St. Columbas's or Portefcock fide, which is ten
foot high. There are two Stones fet up at
the Eaft fide of Loch Finlagan, and they are
fix foot high ; all the Inhabitants are Prote-
ſtants, ſome among them obferve the Feſtivals
of Chriſtmaſs, and Goodfryday. They are well
Q2 propor
244 A Defcription of the
proportion'd, and indifferently healthful ; the
Air here is not near, ſo good as that of Jura,
from which
it is but a fhort Mile diftant, but
Ila is lower and more Marfhy, which makes
it liable to ſeveral Diſeaſes that do not trouble

thofe of Jura. They generally ſpeak the Irish


Tongue, all thofe of the beft Rank fpeak
English ; they ule the fame
e Habit and Diet with
thofe, of Jura. This fie is annexed to the
Crown of Scotland, Sir Hugh Campbel of
Caddel is the King's Steward there, and has
one half of the Ifland. This Ifle is reckon'd
the furtheft Weft of all the Ifles in Britain ;

there is a Village on the Weſt Coaſt of it


called Cul, i. e. the back part, and the Na-
tives fay it was fo called, because the Ancients
thought it the back of the World, as being
the remoteft part on that fide of it. The Na-
tives of Ila, Collinfay, and Jura, fay that there
is an Ifiand lying to the South Weſt of theſe
Ifies, about the diſtance of a Days Sailing , for
which they have only a bare Tradition.
MA Mack Swen, prefent Minifter in the Ifle

Jura , gave me the following account of it,


which he had from the Mafter of an English
Veffel that happend to Anchor at that little
Ife and came afterwards to Jura, which is
thus. 2000 OW! 91
cap yoda Lua mapolwił do 1 to 9. al .

As I was Sailing fome3 30 Leagues to the


South Welt of I , I was Becalm'd near a little
Ife, " where I dropt Anchor, and went afhoar.
I found
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 245

I found it covered all over with long Grafs ;


there were abundance of Seals lying on the
Rocks and on the Shore ; there is likewife a
multitude of Sea- fowls in it ; there is a River
in the middle , and on each fide of it, I found
great heaps of Fish- bones of many forts ; there
are many Planks and Boards , • caft up up-
on the Coaſt of the Ifle, and it being all plain,
and almoſt level with the Sea, I caus'd my Men
(being then Idle) to erect a heap of the Wood a-
bout two Stories high ; and that with a defign
to make the Iſland more Confpicuous to Sea-
faring Men. This lile is four English Miles in
length , and one in breadth : I was about thir-
teen Hours failing between this Ifle , and Jura.
Mr. John Mack Swen above mentioned, having
gone to the Ifle of Collonfay. Some few Day's
after, was told by the Inhabitants that from
an Eminence near the Monaftry , in a fair Day,
they faw as it were the top of a little Mountain
in the South-west Sea, and that they doubted
not but it was Land, tho' they never obferv'd
it before, Mr. Mackfwen was Confirm'd in this
Opinion, 彝 by the account above mentioned ;
but when the Summer was over, they never
faw this little Hill as they call'd it any
more. The reafon of which is fuppos'd to be
this, that the high Winds in all probabily , had
caft down the pile of Wood, that forty Sca
men had erected the preceeding Year , in that
Ifland ; which by reason of the defcription a-
bove recited , we may aptly enough call the
Green Iſland, cardia
The
Q3
246 A Defcription of the

The Ifle of Collonfay.

Bout two Leagues to the North of Ila,


A lies the ffle Oronfay, it is feparated
from Collonfay, only at the Tide of Flood, this
Peninfula is four Miles in Circumference, be-
ing for the most part a plain Arable dry Sandy
Soil, and is fruitful in Corn and Grafs ; it is
likewiſe adorn'd with a Church, Chappel, and
Monaftry ; they were Built by the famous St.
Columbus, to whom the Church is Dedicated.
There is an Altar in this Church, and there has
been a modern Crucifix on it, in which feveral
precious Stones were fixed, the most valuable
oftheſe,is now in the Cuftody of Mack. Duffie,
in black Raimufed Village, and it is us'd as a
Catholicon for Difcafes ; There are ſeveral
burying Places here & the Tomb-ftones for the
moſt part have a two handed Sword engraven on

them . On the South-fide of the Church, with-


in, lies the Tombs of Mack Duffie and of the Ca-
dets ofhis Family,there is a Ship under fail and a
two-handed Sword engraven on the principal
Tomb-ftone, and this Infcription , hic jacit Mal-
columbus Mac-Duffie de Colonfay ; his Coat of
Arms, and colour Staff is fixed in a Stone,
through which a hole is made to holdit. There
is a Crofs at the Eaft and Weft fides of this
Church, which are now broken,their height was
about twelve Foot each,there is a large Croſs on
the Weft fide oftheChurch , ofan entireStone very
hard,there is a Pedeſtal of three Steps by which
they
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 247

they afcend to it,it is 16Foot high, and aFoot and


an halfbroad;there is a largeCrucifix on theWeft-
fide of this Crofs, it has an Infcription under-
neath, but not legible, being almoſt wore off
by the injury of time ; the other fide has a
Tree engraven on it.

ABOUT a quarter of a Mile on the South-


fide the Church , there is a Carne, in which
there is a Stone Crofs fixed , called Mac- Duffies
Croſs, for when any of the Heads of this Fa-
mily werer to be Interr'd, theirCorps was laid on
this Crofs for fome Moments, in their Way to-
ward the Church.

ON the North-fide of the Church, there is


a fquare Stone- wall, about two Story high, the
Area of it is about fourfcore Paces, and it is
joined to the Church Wall ; within this Square,
there is a leffer Square of one Story high, and
about 60 Paces wide, three fides of it are built
of fmall Pillars, confifting of two thin Stones
each, and each Pillar Vaulted above with two
thin Stones tapering upwards, There are Infcrip-
tions on two of the Pillars, but few ofthe Let-
ters are perfect. There are feveral Houſes
without the Square, which the Monks liv'd in.
There is a Garden at twenty Yards diſtance on
the North-fide the Houſes.

THE Natives of Collonfay, are accuſtomed


after their arrival in Oronfay Ifle, to make a
Q4 Tour
248 A Defeription of the

Tour Sunways about the Church, before they


enter upon any kind of Buſineſs. My Land-
lord having one of his Family fick of a Fever,
asked my Book as a fingular Favour for a few
Moments ; I was not a little furpriz'd at the ho-
neft Mans requeft, he being illiterate, and when
he told me the reafon of it, I was no lefs ama-
zed, for it was to fan the Patients Face with
the Leaves of the Book ; and this he did at

Night : He fought the Book next Morning,


and again in the Evening, and then thankd me
for fo great a favour ; and told me, the fick Per-
fon was much better by it,and thus Iunderſtood
that they had an ancient Cuftom of fanning
the Face of the Sick, with the Leaves of the
Bible.
513
THE Ife Collonfay is four Miles in length,
from East to West ; and above a Mile in
breadth : The Mold is brown and fandy on the
Coaft, and affords but a very fmall Product ,
tho' they Plow their Ground three times ; the
middle is Rockie, and Heathy, which in moſt
Places is prettily mingled with thick ever-
greens of Erica-Baccifera, Juniper, and Cats-
Tail.

THE Cattle bred here, are Cows, Horfes,and


Sheep, all of a low fize. The Inhabitants are
generally well Proportion'd, and of a Black
Complection,they fpeak only the Irish Tongue,
and uſe the Habit, Diet, &c. that is us'd in the
Weftern
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 249
Western Iſles, they are all Proteftants , and ob-
ferve the Feſtivals of Christmas, Eafter, and
Good-friday ; but the Women only obſerve the
Feſtival of the Nativity of the Bleſſed Virgin.
Kil-ouran is the principal Church in this Ifle,and
the Village in which this Church is, hath its
Name from it. There are two Ruinous Chap-
pels, in the South-fide of this Ifle. There were
two Stone Chefts found lately in Kilouran
Sands, were compofed of five Stones each , and
had Humane Bones in them. There are ſome
Fresh-water Lakes abounding with Trouts in
this Ifle. There are likewife feveral Forts here,
one of which is called Duncoll it is near the middle
of the Ifle, it hath large Stones in it, and the
Wall is feven Foot broad.

THE other Fort is called Dun- Evan, the Na-


tives have a Tradition among them, of a very
little Generation of People, that lived once here,
called Lusbirdan, the fame with Pigmies ; this
Ifle is the Duke of Argyle's Property:

ac i fan

MULE.
to albis

མཤྩ
250 A Defcription of the

MULL.

HE Ifle of Mull, lies on the Weſt Coaſt


T oppofite to Lochaber, Swoonard, and
Moy-dort. It is divided from theſe by a narrow
Channel, not exceeding half a League in
breadth ; the Ifle is twenty four Miles long,
from South to North, and as many in breadth
from East to West. A South-east Moon cauſes
high Tide here. This Ifle is in the Sheriffdom
of Argyle ; the Air here is temperately Cold
and moift ; the freſh Breezes that blow from the
Mountains , do in fome meaſure qualifie it ;
the Natives are accuſtomed to take a large Dofe
"
of Aqua Vite, as a Corrective when the Seaſon is
very moift, and then they are very careful to
chew a piece of Charmel Root, finding it to be
Aromatick ; eſpecially, when they intend to
have a drinking bout, for they fay this in fome
meaſure prevents Drunkenneſs.

THE Mold is generally black, and brown,


both in the Hills and Valleys, and in ſome
parts a Clay of different Colours. The Heaths

afford abundance of Turff, and Peats, which


ferve the Natives for good Fewel . There is a
great ridge of Mountains about the middle of

the Ifle, one of them very high, and there-


fore called Bein Vore, i. e. a great Mountain.
It is to be feen from all the weſtern Ifles, and
confiderable
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 251
confiderable part of the Continent. Both

Mountains and Valleys afford good Paſturage


for all forts of Cattle, as Sheep, Goats, and
Deer, which herd among the Hills and Buſhes,
The Horfes are but of a low fize , yet very
fprightly ; their black Cattle are likewife
low in fize, but their flesh is very delicious
and fine. 1 There's abundance of Wild Fowl in

the Hills and Valleys ; and among ' em the


black Cock, heath Hen, Tarmagan, and very
fine Hawks. The Sea Coaſt affords all fuch
Fowl as are to be had in the Weſtern Ifles.

The Corn growing 1 here is only Barley and


Oats. There's great variety of Plants in the
Hills and Valleys, but there is no Wood here,
except a few Coppices on the Coaft. There
are fome Bays, and Places for Anchorage about
the Ifle. The Bay of Duart on the Eaft fide,
and to the North of the Caſtle of that Name,
is reckoned a ſafe Anchoring place, and fre
quented by Strangers. Lochbuy on the appo .
fite Weft fide, is but an indifferent Harbour,
Veſſels go into it for Herring.
yer

THE Coaft on the Weft abounds with


Rocks for two Leagues Weft and South Weſt.
The Bloody Bay is overagainſt the North end of
Ifland Columkil, and only fit for Veffels of
about an hundred Tun.

SOME few Miles further to the North Eaſt


is Loch Levin, the entry lies to the Westward,
and
252 A Defcription of the

and goes twelve Miles Eaſterly, there are


Herrings to be had in it ſometimes, and it
abounds with Oyfters, Cockles, Mufcles,
Clams, &c.

LOCH-LAT lies on the South fide of Loch


Levin, it is proper only for fmall Veffels, Her-
ring are to be had in it fometimes, and it a-
bounds with variety of Shell- Fifh ; the fmall
Ifles called the white Ifle, and Ifle ofKids are
within this Bay. To the North of Loch Levin,
lies Loch Scafford, it enters South Weft, and
runs North Eaft ; within it lies the lles Eorfa,
and Inchkenneth, both which are reputed very
Fruitful in Cattle, and Corn..

THERE is a little Chappel in this Ifle, in


which many of the Inhabitants of all Ranks
are buried. Upon the North fide of Loch Scaf-
ford lies the Ifle of Vevay, it's three Miles in
#
Circumference, and encompaffed with Rocks
and Shelves, but Fruitful in Corn, T Graſs, &c.

TO the Weft ofUlva, lies the Ifle Gometra,a


Mile in Circumference, and Fruitful, in propor-
tion to the other Ifles.

About four Miles further lie the fmall Ifles


call'd Kairnburg-More; and Kernbug- Beg, they
are naturally very ftrong, fac'd all round with
a Rock, having a narrow entry, and a violent
Current of a Tide on each fide, fo that they
are
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 253

are almoft impregnable. A very few Men are


able to defend thefe two Forts againſt a thou-
fand . There is a ſmall Garrison of the Stand-

ing Forces in them at preſent.

TO the South of thefe Forts lie the fmall


Ifles of Fl dday, Lungay, Back,and the Call ofthe
Back ; Cod and Ling are to be had plentifully
about all theſe Iſlands.
1.

NEAR to the North Eaſt end of Mull, lies


3
the Ifle Calve, it is above two Miles in com-
pafs, has a Coppice, and affords good Paftu-
rage for all kind of Cattle. Between this Ifie,
and the Ifle of Mull, there is a capacious and
excellent Bay, called Tonbir Mory, ie. the
Virgin Maries Well, becauſe the water of a
Well of that Name, which is faid to be Medi-
cinal, runs into the Bay.

ONE of the Ships of the Spaniſh Armada,


called the Florida, perifhed in this Bay, having
been blown up by one Smallet of Dunbarton,
in the year 1688. There was a great Sum of
Gold and Money on board the Ship, which
difpofed the Earl of Argyle, and fome English-
men to attempt the recovery of it ; but how
far the latter fucceeded in this Enterprize, is
not generally well known ; only that fomet
pieces of Gold, and Money, and a golden
Chain was taken out of her. I have ſeen fome
fine braſs Cannon, fome Pieces of Eight, Teeth,
Beads
254 A Defcription of the
Beads and Pins that had been taken out of that
Ship. Several of the Inhabitants of Mull told
me that they had converfed with their Relati-
ons that were living at the Harbour when this
Ship was blown up, and they gave an account
of an admirable Providence that appear'd in the
preſervation of one Doctor Beaton, (the Fa-
mous Phyfician of Mull, ) who was on board
the Ship when ſhe blew up, and was then fit-
ting on the upper Deck, which was blown up
entire, and thrown a good way off, yet the
Doctor was faved, and liv'd feveral years
after.

THE black and white Indian Nuts are


found on the Weft fide of this Ifle ; the Na-

tives pulverize the black Kernel or the black


Nut, and drink it in boyl'd Milk for Curing
the Diarka.

THERE are ſeveral Rivers in the Ifle that


afford Salmon, and fome Rivers abound with
the black Muſcle that breeds Pearl. There are
alfo fome Freſh water Lakes that have Trouts,
and Eels. The whole Ifle is very well water'd
with many Springs and Fountains. They told
me of a Spring in the fouth fide of the Moun-
tain Bein Vore, that has a yellow colour'd ftone
in the bottom, which doth not burn , or become
hot, tho' it ſhould be kept in the Fire for a
whole day together.

THE
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland,&c. 255

THE Amphibia in this Ifle are Seals, Otters,


Vipers, of the fame kind as thoſe deſcribed in
the Ifle of Skie, and the Natives uſe the fame
Cures for the biting of Vipers. Foxes abound
in this Ifle, and do much hurt among the
Lambs, and Kids.

THERE are three Caſtles in the Ifle ; to


wit, the Caſtle of Duart, fcituated on the Eaft,
built upon a Rock, the Eaft fide is furrounded
by the Sea. This was the Seat of Sir John
Mack Lean, Head of the Ancient Family ofthe
Mack Leans ; and is now together with the
Eſtate, which was the major part of the Iſland,
become the Duke of Argyle's Property by the
Forfeiture of Sir John.

SOME Miles further on the Weſt Coaſt,


ftands the Caſtle of Moy, at the head of Loch-
buy, and is the Seat of Mack Lean of Lochbuy.


THERE is an old Caſtle at Aros in the
middle of the Ifland, now in ruines . There
are ſome old Forts here called Dunns, fuppos'd.
to have been built by the Danes. There are
two Parish Churches in the Ifle, viz. Killinchen-
Benorth, Loch- Levin, and a little Chappel,
call'd Kilwichk- Ewin at the Lake above Loch-
Lay, each Parish hath a Minifter. The Inhabi-
tants are all Proteftants, except two or three,
who are Roman Catholicks ; they obſerve the
Feſtivals
256 A Defcription of the

Feſtivals of Christmas, Eafter, Good- Friday,


and St. Michael's. They speak the Irish Lan-
guage generally,but thofe of the beſtRank ſpeak
Englife ; they wear the fame Habit as the reſt of
the Islanders.
.... :

JONA.

HIS e in the Irish Language is called


Τ Η I. Colmkil, ie the Ifthmus of Columbus
the Clergy- Man. Colum was his proper
Name, and the addition of Kil, which fignifies
a Church, was added by the Islanders by way
of excellence ; for there were few Churches
then in the remote and leffer Ifles.
}
THE Natives have a Tradition among
them , that one of the Clergy-Men who accom-
panied Columbus in his Voyage thither, having
at a good diſtance efpied the Ifle, and cry'd
joyfully to Columbus in the Irish Language, Chi
mi i, i. e. I fee her ; meaning thereby, the
Countrey of which they had been in queſt.
That Columbus then anfwer'd, 7 It fhall be froth
henceforth called T.

THE Ile is two Miles long from South to


North, and one in breadth, from Eaſt to Weft.
The
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 257

The Eaft fide is all arable and plain, Fruitful


in Corn and Graſs ; the Weft fide is high and
Rocky.

THIS IЛle was anciently a Seminary of


Learning, Famous for the fevere Diſcipline and
Sanctity ofColumbus. He built two Churches ,
and two Monafteries in it, one for Men , the
other for Women ; which were Endowed by
the Kings of Scotland, and of the Iles ; fo that
the Revenues of the Church then amounted to

4000 Merks per Ann. Jona was the Biſhop of


the Ile's Cathedral , after the Scots loft the fle
of Man, in which King Cratilinth erected a
Church to the honour of our Saviour, called
Fanum Sodorenfe. Hence it was that the Biſhop
of the Iſles was filed Epifcopus Sodorenfis. The
Vicar of Jona wasParlon of Soroby in Tyre- iy,and
Dean of the Illes. St. Maries Church here is
built in form of a Crofs, the Choir 20 yards
long, the Cupulo 21 Foot fquare, the body of
the Church of equal length with the Choir,
and the two crofs lles half that length. There
are two Chappels on each fide of the Choir,
the entry to them opens with large Pillars
neatly Carv'd in Baffo Relievo ; the Steeple is
pretty large, the Doors, Windows, &c. are
curioufly Carv'd ; the Altar is large, and of
as fine Marble as any I ever faw. There are
ſeveral Abbots buried within the Church & $ Mack Kenneth
Ilikenich his Statue is done in black Marble, as

big as the Life, in an Epiſcopal Habit , with a


R Mitre,
258 A Deſcription of the

Mitre, Crofier, Ring, and Stones along the


Breaſt, &c. The rest ofthe Abbots are done
after the fame manner ; the Inſcription of one
Tomb is as follows,

Hic Facet Joannes Mack Fingone , Abbas de


Oui, qui Obijt Anno Domini Milefimo Quin-
gentefimo.

BISHOP Knox, and feveral Perfons of di-


ftinction, as Mack Leod of Harries, have alfo
been buried here.

THERE'S the Ruines of a Cloyster behind


the Church, as alfo of a Library, and under it
a large Room ; the Natives fay it was a Place
for Publick Difputations.

THERE is a heap of Stones without the


Church, under which Mackean . of Ardminur-
chin lies buried. There is an empty piece of
ground between the Church and the Gardens,
in which Murderers, and Children that died
before Baptifm were buried. Near to the
Weft end of the Church in a little Cell lies Co-
lumbus his Tomb, but without Infcription ;
this gave me occafion to cite the Diftich, af
ferting that Columbus was buried in Ireland ;
at which the Natives ofJona feem'd very much
difpleas'd, and affirm'd that the Iriſh who faid
to were impuden : Liars ; that Columbus was
once buried in this Place, and that none ever
came
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 259
came from Ireland fince "
to carry away his
My
Corps, which had they attempted , would have
prov'd equally vain and preſumptuous.

NEAR St. Columbus's Tomb, is St. Martin's


Croſs, an entire Stone of eight foot high ;
it is a very hard and red ftone, with a mixture
of grey in it. On the Weft fide of the Cross
is engraven a large Crucifix, and on the Eaſt a
Tree ; it ftands on a Pedeſtal of the fame
-
kind of ftone. At a little further distance
is Dun Ni Manich, i. c. Monks Fort, built
of Stone and Lime, in form of a Baftion,
pretty high. From this Eminence the Monk's
had a view of all the Families in the Ille, and
at the fame time enjoy'd the free Air. A little
further to the Weft lie the Black ſtones, which
are ſo call'd, not from their Colour , for that
is gray, but from the effects that Tradition
fay cnfued upon Perjury, if any one became
guilty of it after fwearing on theſe Stones in
the ufual manner, for an Oath made on them
was decifive in all Controverfies.

MACK DONALD King of the Iſles deli-


ver'd the Rights of their Lands to his Vaffals
in the lles and Continent, with up- lifted
hands , and bended knees on the black Stones;
and in this poſture, before many Witneſſes, he
folemnly Swore that he would never recall
thofe Rights which he then granted , and this
was inſtead of his great Seal. Hence it is that
R 2 when
260 4 Deſcription of the
when one was certain of what he affirm'd, he
faid poffitively, I have freedom to Swear this
Matter upon the black ftones.

ON the South fide the Gate without the


Church is the Taylors Houſe, for they only
wrought in it. The Natives fay that in the
time of a Plague, the outer Gate was quite
fhut up, and that all Provifions was thrown in
through a hole in the Gate for that purpoſe.

AT fome diftance South from St. Maries, is


St. Ouran's Church, commonly call'd Reliqui
Ouran, the Saint of that Name is buried with-
in it.

THE Laird of Mack Kinnon has a Tomb


within this Church, which is the ftatelieſt
Tomb in the Ifle. On the wall above the
Tomb there is a Crucifix engraven, having the
Arms of the Family underneath ; viz. a Boars
Head, with a couple of Sheeps bones in its
jaws. The Tomb-ftone has a Statue as big as
the Life, all in Armour, and upon it a Ship
under Sail, a Lion at the Head, and another
at the Feet. The Infcription on the Tomb is
thus : Hic eft Abas Lachlani, Mack Fingone,
& ejus Filius Abbatis de I. Etatis in Dno
Me cccc Ann.

THERE are other Perfons of Diſtinction in


the Church, all done in Armour.
ON
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 261

ON the South fide of the Church men-


tion'd above, is the Burial Place in which the
Kings and Chiefs of Tribes are Buried , and
over them a Shrine ; there was an Inſcription ,
giving an account of each particular Tomb, but
Time has worn them off. The middlemoſt
had written on it, The Tombs of the Kings of
Scotland ; of which forty eight lie there.

UPON that on the right hand, was written


The Tombs of the Kings of Ireland, of which
four were buried here.

AND upon that on the left hand was writ


ten The Kings of Norway, of which eight were
buried here.

ON the right hand within the entry to the


Church- yard, there is a Tomb-ftone now over-
grown with Earth, and upon it there's written,
Hic Facet Joannes Turnbull, quondam Epifcopus
Canterburienfis. This I deliver upon the Au-
thority of Mr. Jo. Mack Swen, Miniſter ofJura,
who ſays he read it.

NEXT to the King's , is the Tomb-ſtone of


Mack Donald of Ila , the Arms a Ship with:
"
hoifted Sails, a Standard , four Lions, and a
Tree ; the Infcription, Hic Facet Corpus
Angufii Mack Donuill de Ile.

R 3 IN
262 A Defeription of the

IN the Weft end is the Tombs of Gilbrid


and Paul Sporran, Ancient Tribes of the Mack
Donalds.

THE Families of Mack- Lean of Duart,


Lochbuy, and Coll, lie next all in Armour, as
big as the Life.

MACK ALISTER, a Tribe of the Mack


Donalds, Mack Ouery of Ulvay, are both done
as above .

THERE is a heap of Stones on which they


us'd to lay the Corps while they dug the
Grave. There is a Stone likewife erected
here, concerning which the credulous Natives
fay, That whofoever reaches out his Arm
along the Stone three times, in the Name of
the Father, Son, and Holy Ghoft, will never
err in Steering the Helm of a Veflel.

ONE Tombhath a Clergy- Man, with this


Infcription upon it : Sancta, &c.

ABOUT a quarter of a Mile further South


is the Church Ronad, in which feveral Prioref
Jes are buried ; one of the Infcriptions is, Hic
jacet Dna. Anna Terleti, Filia quandam Priorifla
de fona, quæ obijt Anno Mo Chrifti, Animam
Abrahamo Commendamus .

THE
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 263

Another Infcription is ; Bebag Nijn Sirle


vic Il vrid Prioriffa ; i. e. Bathia Daughter
to Somerled, Son of Gilbert, Priorefs.

WITHOUT the Nunnery there is fuch


another Square as that befide the Monaſtery
for Men. The two Pavements which are of a
hard red Stone are yet entire ; in the middle
of the longeſt Pavement there is a large Crofs,
like to that mention'd above, and is called
Mack- Leans Crofs. There are 9 Places on the
Eaft fide the Ifle, called Ports for Landing.

THE Dock which was dug out of Port


Churich, is on the fhoar, to preſerve Columbus's
Boat called Curich, which was made of ribs of
Wood, and the out fide cover'd with Hides ; the
Boat was long, and fharp pointed at both
ends ; Columbus is faid to have transported
18 Church- men in this Boat to Jona.

THERE are many pretty variegated Stones


in the fhoar below the Dock, they ripen to
a green colour, and are then proper for Car-
ving. The Natives fay thefe ftones are Fortu-
nate, but only for fome particular thing, which
the Perſon thinks fit to name, in exclufion of
every thing elſe.

There was a Tribe here call'd Clan vic n'efter,


from Oftiarii,' for they are faid to have been
R 4 Portcis.
264 A Deſcription of the
Porters. The Tradition of thefe is, that be-
fore Columbus died, thirty of this Family li
ved then in fona, and that upon fome provo-

cation, Columbus entail'd a Curfe upon them ;


which was, That they might all perish to the
Number of five, and that they might never
exceed that Number, to which they were ac-
cordingly reduc'd ; and ever fince, when any
Woman of the Family was in Labour, both
fhe, and the other four were afraid of death ;
for if the Child that was to be then born, did
not die, they fay one of the five was fure to
die ; and this they affirm to have been veri-
fied on every fuch occafion fucceffively to this
day. I found one only of this Tribe living in
the Ifle, and both he and the Natives of this
and of all the Weftern Ifles, unanimously de-
clare, that this obſervation never fail'd, and all
this little Family is now extinct, except this
one poor Man.

THE Life of Columbus written in the Irish

Character, is inthe Cuſtody of Jobs Mack Neil,


in the lle of Barray ; another Copy of it is
kept by1 Mack- Donald of Benbecula.

THE Inhabitants have a Tradition, that


Columbus fuffer'd no Women to ſtay in the Inle
except the Nuns ; and that all the Tradefmen
who wrought in it, were oblig'd to keep their
Wives and Daughters in the oppofite little Ifle,
calied on that account Womens- le. They fay
likewife,
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 265

likewiſe, that it was to keep Women out of


the fle, that he would not fuffer Cows, Sheep
or Goats to be brought to it.

BEDA in his Ecclefiaftical Hiftory, Lib. 3.


Cap. 4. gives this account of him. In the

year of our Lord, 565. (at the time that Juſtin


the younger fucceeded Juftinian in the Govern-
ment ofthe Roman Empire ) the Famous Colum-
ba a Presbyter and Abbot, but in Habit and
Life a Monk ; came from Ireland to Britain to
Preach the word of God to the Northern Pro-
vinces of the Picts, that is, to thoſe who by
high and rugged Mountains are ſeparated from
.
the fouthern Provinces. For the fouthern
Picts who have their habitation on this fide the
fame hills, had as they affirm themſelves, re-
nounc'd Idolatry, and receiv'd the Faith a long
time before , by the Preaching of Ninian the
Biſhop, a moft Reverend and Holy Man, of
the Countrey of the Brittons, who was regu-
larly Educated at Rome, in the Mysteries of
Truth.

IN the ninth year of Meilochen Son to


Pridius King of Picts, a molt powerful King,
Columbus by his Preaching and Example, Con-
verted that Nation to the Faith of Chrift.
Upon this account they gave him the Ifle
above-mention'd, (which he calls Hii, Book 3 .
Cap. 3. ) to erect a Monaftery in which
his Succeffors poffefs to this day, and where
he
266 A Description of the

he himself was buried, in the feventy feventy


year of his Age, and the thirty fecond after
his going to Britain to preach the Gospel. He
built a Noble Monaſtery in Ireland, before his
coming to Britain, from both which Mo-
9
nafteries he and his Difciples Founded feveral
other Monafteries in Britain and Ireland ;
among all which, the Monaftery of the Inland
in which his Body is interr'd, has the prehemi
nence. The Ifle has a Rector, who is always a
Presbyter Abbot, to whofe Jurifdiction the
whole Province, and the Bishops themfelves
ought to be fubject, tho' the thing be unufual,
according to the Example of that first Doctor,
who was not a Bishop, but a Presbyter and
Monk ; and of whofe Life and Doctrine fome
things are faid to be wrote by his Difciples.
But whatever he was, this is certain, that he
left Succeffors eminent for their great Chaſtity,
Divine Love, and regular Inftitution.

THIS Monaftery furniſhed Bifhops to feve


ral Dioceffes of England and Scotland ; and
amongſt others, Aidanus, who was fent from
thence, and was Bishop of Lindisfairn, now
Holy-Mand

The

613
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 267

The Isle of Tire-iy, is fo call'd, from Tire

a Country, and iy an Ifthmus ; the

Rocks in the Narrow Channel ſeem to fa-


vour the Etymology.

HIS Ife lies about eight Leagues to the


TH Weft of Jona, or I. Colm-Kil, the Land
is low and Moorish, but there are two little
Hills on the South Weft fide ; the Mold is
generally brown, and for the most part Sandy.
The Weſtern fide is Rocky for about three
Leagues ; the Ifle affords no convenient Har-
bour for Ships, but has been always valued for
traordinary Fruitfulneſs in Corn, yet
its
being Till'd every year, it is become lefs
Fruitful than formerly. There is a plain piece
of ground ' about fix Miles in compafs on the
Eaft Coaft, called the Rive, the Grafs is fel-
dom fuffer'd to grow the length of halfan inch,
being only kept as a Common, yet is be-
liev'd to excell any parcel of Land of its extent
in the Ifles, or oppofite Continent ; there are
fmall Channels in it , through which the Tide
of Flood comes in, and it fometimes overflows
the whole.

THE Ifle is four Miles in length from the


South Eaft, to the North Weft ; the Natives
for the most part live on Barley- Bread , Butter,
Milk, Cheeſe, Fiſh, and fome cat the Roots
*
of
258 A Deſcription of the

of Silver- weed ; there are but few that eat any


Flesh, and the Servants ufe Water- Gruel often
with their bread . In plentiful years the Na-

tives drink Ale generally. There are three


Alehouſes in the Ifle, the Brewers preſerve
their Ale in large Earthen Veffels, and fay they
are much better for this purpoſe than thofe of
Wood ; fome of them contain twelve English
Gallons. Their Meaſure for Drink is a third
part larger than any I could obſerve in any
other part of Scotland. The Ale that I had in
the inn being too Weak, I told my Hoſt of it,
who promis'd to make it better ; for this end
he took a Hecki k Stone, and having made it
red hot in the fire, he quench'd it in the Ale.
The Company and I were fatisfied that the
drink was a little more brisk, and I told him
that if he could add fome more life to our Alc,

he would extreamly oblige . the Company.


This he frankly undertook, and to effect it,
toafted a Barley Cake, and having broke it in
pieces he put it into the dish with the Ale ; and
this Experiment we found as effectual as the
firft. I enquir'd of him if he had any more Art
to revive our Ale, and then he would make it
pretty good ; he anſwer'd, that he knew of
nothing else but a Malt- Cake, which he had
not then ready, and fo we were oblig'd to con-
tent our felves with what pains had been al-
ready us'd to revive our drink. The Natives
preferve their Yeſt by an Oaken Wyth which
they twist and put into it, and for future uſe,
keep
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 269

keep it in Barley- Straw. The Cows and Hor


fes are of a very low fize in this Ifle, being in
the Winter and Spring time often reduc'd to
eat Sea Ware. The Cows give plenty of Milk,
when they have enough of freſh Sea- Ware to
feed on it fattens them ; the Horfes páce natu-
rally, and are very sprightly tho' little . The
ground abounds with Flint-ftone ; the Natives
tell me they find pieces of Sulphur in feveral
places. The Weft Winds drive the ordinary
Indian Nuts to the fhoar of this Ifle, and the
Natives ule them as above, for removing the
Diarrhea ; and the water of the Well called
Tonbir, in Donich, is by the Natives drunk as a
Catholicon for Diſeaſes.

SOME Years ago, about one hundred and


fixty little Whales, the biggeft not exceeding
twenty foot long, run themſelves afhoar in
this Ifle, very feaſonably, in time of fcarcity,
for the Natives did eat them all ; and told me
that the Sea-Pork, i. e. the Whale, is both
wholſom, and very nourishing Meat. There
is a Freſh-water Lake in the middle of the Iſle,
on the Eaft fide of which there is an old Ca-
ftle now in Ruines. The 'lfle being low and
Moorish, is unwholfome, and makes the Na-
tives fubject to the Ague. The Inhabitants
living in the South Eaſt parts, are for the most
part Bald, 1 and have but very thin hair on their
heads. There is a Cave in the South Weſt,
which the Natives are accuſtom'd to watch in
the
270 A Deſcription of the

the Night, and then take many Cormorants


in it. There are feveral Forts in the Ifle, one
in the middle of it, and Dun Taelk in Baelly
Petris, they are in form the fame with
thofe in the Northern Ifles. There are feveral
great and fmall Circles of Stone in this Ifle.
The Inhabitants are all Proteftants, they ob.
ſerve the Feſtivals of Christmas, Good- Friday,
Eafter, and St. Michael's Day. Upon the
latter there is a general Cavalcade, at which
all the Inhabitants Rendezvous. They fpeak
the Irish Tongue, and wear the Highland Drefs.
This Ifle is the Duke of Argyle's Property, it
being of
Laird one Mack- Lean
of the ; the
Ifles lately by the
poffefs'd by
Parifhd the
Church in the
Ifle is called Soroby, and is a Parfonage.

The
Weſtern Mſands of Scotland,&c. 2.71

The Ifle of COLL.

HIS Ile lies about half a League to the


TREaft and North Eaſt of Tyr-ży, from
which it hath been ſevered by the Sea. It is
ten Miles in length, and three in breadth ; it
is generally compos'd of little Rocky Hills,
cover'd with Heath. The Northfide is much
plainer,and arable ground, affording Barley
and Oats ; the Inhabitants always feed on the
latter, and thoſe of Tyr- ży on the former. The
Iflé of Coll produces more Boys than Girls, and
the Ifle of Tyr- iy more Girls than Boys ; as if
Nature intended both thefe Ifles for mutual
Alliances, without being at the trouble of
going to the adjacent Ifles or Continent to be
matched. The Parish Book in which the num-

ber of the Baptized is to be ſeen, confirms this


obfervation .

THERE are feveral Rivers in this Ifle that


afford Salmon . There is a Freſh- water Lake in
the South Eaſt fide, which hath Trouts , and
Eels. Within a quarter of a Mile lies a little
Caſtle, the Seat of Mack-Lean of Coll, the
Proprietor of the Ifle, he and all the Inhabi-
tants are Proteſtants ; they obferve the Fefti-
vals of Christmass , Good Friday, Eafter, and
St. Michael, at the latter they have a general
Cavalcade . all the Inhabitants ſpeak the Irish

Tongue,
272 A Defcription of the

Tongue, (a few excepted) and wear the Ha-


bit us'd by the reſt of the Iflanders. This Iffe
is much wholfomer than that of Tir-iy. I
faw a Gentleman of Mack- Lean of Coll's Fa

mily here, Aged eighty five, who walked up


and down the Fields daily.

COD and Ling abound on the Coaſt of


this Ifle, and are of a larger fize here, than
in the adjacent Ifles or Continent.

ON the South Eaſt Coaſt of this Ifle, lie


the train of Rocks, call'd the Carn of Coll ;
they reach about half a League from the
Shoar, and are remarkable for their Fatality to
Sea-faring Men, of which there are feveral late
inftances. There is no Venomous Creature
in this Iſland, or that of Tyr-iy.

The
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 273

RUM.

"HIS Ifle lies about four Leagues South


T from Skie, it is Mountaneous and hea-
thy,but the Coaſt is Arable and Fruitful. The
Ifle is five Miles long from S. to N. and three
from E. to W. the North end produces fome
Wood. The Rivers on each fide afford Sal-
mon: There is plenty of Land and Sea- Fowl ,
fome of the latter, eſpecially the Puffin build
in the Hills as much as in the Rocks on the
Coaſt, in which there are abundance of Caves ;
the Rock facing the Weft fide is Red, and that
on the Eaft fide Grey. The Mountains have
fome hundred of Deer grazing in them . The
Natives gave me an account of a ſtrange Ob-
ſervation which they fay proves Fatal to the
Pofterity of Lachlin, a Cadet of Mack- Lean of
Coll's Family ; That if any of them fhoot at a
Deer on the Mountain Finchra, he dies fud-
dainly, or contracts fome violent Distemper,
which foon puts a period to his Life. They
told me fome Inftances to this purpoſe ; what-
ever may be in it, there is none of the Tribe
above named, will ever offer to fhoot the Deer
in that Mountain.

THE Bay Loch Scresord on the Eaſt ſide is


not fit for Anchoring, except without the
Entry.
S. THERE
274 A Defcription of the

THERE is a Chappel in this Ifle, the Na


tives are Proteftants, Mack Lean of Col is pro-
prietor, and the Language and Habit the fame
with the Northern Ifles.

Ifle MUCK.

T lies a little to the South-west of Rum,


It being 4 miles in Circumference, all for-
rounded with a Rock, it is fruitful in Corn and
Grafs: the Hawks in the Rocks here are repu-
ted to be very good. The Cattle, Fowls,
and Amphibia ofthis Iſland, are the fame as in
other Ifles, the Natives fpeak the Irish Tongue
only, and uſe the Habit wore by their Neigh-
bours.

Me
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 275

Ifle CANNAY.

HIS Ifle lies about half a mile off Rum, it


TH is 2 miles from South to North, and
one from East to West. It is for the most part
furrounded with a high Rock, and the whole
fruitful in Corn and Grafs : The South end
hath plenty of Cod and Ling.

There is a hill in the North end which difor-


ders the Needle in the Compaſs, I laid the Com-
pafs on the ftony ground near it, and the Nee-
dle went often round with great fwiftneſs, and
inftead offettling towards the North , as uſual,
it fettled here due Eaſt. The Stones in the
furface of the Earth are black, and the Rock
below facing the Sea is red ; fome affirm that
the Needle of a Ships Compafs Sailing by the
Hill is difordered by the force of the Magnet
in this Rock, but of this I have no certainty.

THE Natives call this Ifle by the name


Tarfin at Sea, the Rock Heisker, on the South
end abounds with wild Geeſe in Auguſt,and then

they caft their quills. The Church in this Ifle


is dedicated to St. Columbus. All the Natives
are Roman Catholicks , they uſe the Language
and Habit, ofthe other Ifics. Allan Mac donald
is Proprietor. There is good Anchorage on
the N. E. of this Ile.
S 2 A
276 A Deſcription of the

A Deſcription of the Isle of EGG.

'HIS Ifle lies to the South of Skie about


THfour Leagues, it is three miles in Length
a mile and a halfin breadth, and about Nine in
Circumference. It is all Rockie and Mountan-
ous from the middle towards the Weft ; the
Eaft fide is plainer, and more arable ; the
whole is indifferent good for pafturage and Cul-
tivation; there is a Mountain in the South

end, and on the top of it there is a high Rock


called Skur Egg ; about an hundred and fifty
paces in Circumference and has a freſh water
Lake in the Middle of it ; there is no access to
this Rock but by one paffage, which makes it
a natural Fort. There is a Harbour on the
South Eaft fide this ifle, which may be enterd
into by either fide the ſmalllfle without it.There
is a very big Cave on the South Weft fide
of thislfle,capable of containing feveral hundreds
of People. The Coaft guarding the North
Weft is a foft Quarry of white Stone, having
fome Caves in it. There is a Well in the

Village called Fivepennies, reputed efficacious


againſt feveral Diftempers ; the Natives told
me that it never fails to Cure any Perſon of
their firft Difeafe, only by drinking a quantity
of it for the space of two or three days ; and
that if a Stranger lie at this Well in the Night
time,
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, & . 277

time, it will procure a deformity in fome


part of his Body, but has no fuch effect on
Native ; and this they fay hath been frequently
experimented.

THERE is a heap of Stones here , called


Martin Deffil, i. e. a Place Confecrated to
the Saint of that Name, about which the Na-
tives oblige themſelves to make a Tour round
Sunways.

THERE is another heap of Stones, which


they fay was Confecrated to the Virgin
Mary.

IN the Village on the South Coaſt of this


Ifle there is a Well, cali'd St. Kathrine's Well,
the Natives have it in great eſteem, and believe
it to be a Catholicon for Diſeaſes. They told
me that it had been fuch ever fince it was Con-

fecrated by one Father Hugh, a Popish Prieft,


in the following manner. He obliged all the
Inhabitant s to come to this Well, and then im-
ploy'd them to bring together a great heap of
Stones at the head of the Spring, by way of
Pennance ; this being done, he faid Mafs at
the Well, and then Confecrated it ; he gave
each of thet Inhabitants a piece of wax Candle,
which they lighted, and all of them made the
Deffel, of going round the Well Sunways, the
Prieft leading them ; and from that time it was
S 3 accounted
278 A Deſcription of the

accounted unlawful to boil any Meat with


the Water ofthis Well.
3

THE Natives obferve St. Kathrine's Anni-


verfary, all of them come to the Well, and ha-
ving drank a draught of it, they make the
Defil round it Sunways ; this is always per-
V..
form'd on the 15th day of April. The Inhabi-
tants of this fe are well proportion'd they
fpeak the Irish Tongue only, and wear the
Habit of the Ifianders ; they are all Roman
Catholicks, except one Woman, that is a
Proteftant.

THERE is a Church here on the Eaft fide


the Ifle, Dedicated to St. Donnan, whoſe Anni-
verfary they obferve. Leone

ABOUT thirty yards from the Church there


is a Sepulchral Urn under ground ; it is a big
Stone hewn to the bottom, about four foot
deep, and the Diameter of it is about the fame
breadth ; I caus'd 'em to dig the ground a
bove it, and we found a flat thin Stone co-
vering the Urn ; A it was almoſt full of Hu-
mane Bones, but no Head among them, and
they were fair and dry. I enquir'd of the Na-
tives what was become of the Heads, and they
could not tell ; but one of them ſaid, perhaps
their Heads had been cut off with a two-
handed Sword, and taken away by the Enemy.
Some few paces to the North of the Urn there
is
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 279

is a narrow stone paffage under ground, but


how far it reaches, they could give me no ac-
count.

THE Natives dare not call this Ifle by its


ordinary Name of Egg, when they are at Sea,
but Ifland Nim-Ban-More, i. e. the Ifle of big
Women. St. Donnan's Well, which is in the
South Weft end, is in great eſteem by the
Natives, for St. Donnan is the Celebrated Tu
telar of this life. The Natives do not allow
Proteftants to come to their Burial.

THE Proprietors of the Ife are Allan Mack-


Donald of Moydart, and Allan Mack-Donald of
Moron.

S 4 Saint
280 A Description of the

Saint KILDA, or HIRT.

HE firft of theſe Names is taken from one


T Kilder, who lived here, and from him
the large Well Tonbir-Kilda has alfo its Name.
Hirta is taken from the Irish Ier, which in that
Language fignifies Weft ; this. Ifle lies directly
oppofite to the Iles of N. Uift, Harries, &c.
It is reckoned 18 Leagues from the former,
and 20 from Harries. This Ifle is by Peter
Goas in a Map he made of it at Roterdam, called
St. Kilder ; it is the remoteft of all the Scots
North-west Ifles : It is about two Miles in
length, and one in breadth ; it is faced all
round with a ſteep Rock, except the Bay on
the South-east, which is not a Harbour fit for
any Veffel, tho' in the time of a Calm one
may Land upon the Rock, and get up into the
Inland with a little climbing. The Land riſes
pretty high in the middle, and there is one
Mountain higher than any other part ofthe
Inland. There are ſeveral Fountains of good
Water on each fide this Ifle. The Corn pro-
duced here is Oats and Barley, the latter is
the largeſt in the weſtern Iſles.

THE Horſes and Cows here, are of a lower


fize than in the adjacent Ifles, but the Sheep
differ only in the bigness oftheir Horns , which
are very long.
THERE
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 281

> THERE is an ancient Fort, on the South-end


of the Bay, called Dun fir Volg, i. e. the Fort
of the Volfcij, this is the fenfe put upon the
word by the Antiquaries of the oppofite Ifles of
List.

THE Ifle Soa, is near halfa Mile diſtant from


the Weft-fide of St.Kilda,it is a Mile in circumfe-
rence,very high,and ſteep all round. Borera lies a-
bove two Leagues N.of St.Kilda, it is near a Mile
in circumference , the moſt of it furrounded with
a high Rock, the largeſt and the two leffer Ifles
are good for Pafturage, and abound with a
Prodigious number of Sea-fowl, from March,
till September, the Solan Geefe are very nume-
rous here, in fo much that the Inhabitants com-
monly keep yearly above twenty thousand
Young and Old in their little Stone Houſes,
of which there are fome hundreds for preferving
their Fowls, Eggs, &c. They uſe no Salt for
preferving their Fowl, the Eggs of the Sea
Wild-fowl, are preferved fome Months in the
Afhes of Peats, and are aftringent to fuch as
be not accuſtomed to eat them.

THE Solan Goofe, is in fize fomewhat lefs


than a Land Goofe ; and of a white Colour ex-
cept the tips of the Wings, which are Black,
and the top of their Head, which is Yellow
their Bill is long, ſmall pointed, and very hard,
and pierces an Inch deep into Wood, in their de-
feent
282 A Defcription of the

fcent after a Fiſh laid on a Board, as ſome uſe


to catch 'em. When they fleep, they put their
Head under their Wings, but one of them keeps
Watch, and if that be furpriz'd by the Fowler,
(which often happens,) all the reſt are then eafi-
ly caught , by the Neck, one after another ;
but if the Sentinel gives warning by crying
loud, then all the Flock make their eſcape.
When this Fowl flfhes for Herring, it flies a-
bout fixty Yards high, and then defcends per-
pendicularly into the Sea, but after all other
Fith it defcends a fquint, the reafon for this
manner of purſuing the Herring, is becaufe
they are in greater Shoals than any other
Fish whatſoever.

THERE is a barren Tribe of Solan Geefe,


that keep always together, and never mix a-
mong the reft that build and hatch. The Solan
Geefe come to thofe lands in March, taking
the advantage ofa South- west Wind, before their
coming, they fend a few of their Number, as
Harbingers before them, and when they have
made a Tour round the Ifles, they return im-
mediately to their Company, and in a few days
after the whole Flock comes together, and ſtays
till September ; the Natives make a Pudding of
the fat of this Fowl , in the Stomack of it, and
boyl it in their Water- gruel, which they call
Brochan, they drink it likewife for removing
the Cough : It is by daily Experience found
to be an excellent vulnerary
THE
A
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 283

THE Inhabitants eat the Solan Goole Egg


raw,and by Experience find it to be a good Pecto-
ral. The Solan Geefe are daily making up their

Nefts from March till September, they make


'em
nin
in the Shelves of high Rocks, they Fish,
Hatch, and make their Nefts by turns, and
they amals for this end a great heap of Grafs,
and fuch other things as they catch floating on
the Water ; the Steward of St. Kilda, told me
that they had found a Red Coat in a Neſt, a
Brals Sun-dial, and an Arrow,and fome Molucca
Beans in another Neft. This Solan Goole is
believed to be the fharpeft fighted of all Sea-
fowls, it preferves five or fix Herrings in its
Gorget entire, and carries them to the Neft,
where it fpews them out to ferve as Food to the 1
Young ones ; they are obferved to go a fishing
to feveral Ifles that lie about thirty Leagues di-
ftant, and carry the Fish in their Gorget all that
way, and this is confirm'd by the Engliſh
o the F
Hooks, which are found fticking to Fith-
Bones in their Nefts, for the Natives have no
fuch Hooks among them.

THEY have another Bird here call'd Fulmar,


it is a Grey Fowl,about the fize of a Moor Hen,
it has a ſtrongBill with wide Noftrils,as often as
it goes to Sea, it is a certain figne of a Weſtern

Wind, for it fits always on the Rock, when


the Wind is to blow from any other Quarter.
This Fowl the Natives fay, picks its Food out
of
284 A Deſcription of the

of live Whales, and that it eats Sorrel, for both


thoſe forts of Food are found in its Neft. When
any one approaches the Fulmar, it ſpouts out
at its Bill, about a Quart of pure Oyl, the Na-
tives furprize the Fowl, and preferve the Oyl,
and burn it in their Lamps, it is good againſt
Rheumatick Pains and Aches in the Bones, the
Inhabitants of the adjacent Ifles, value it as a
Catholicon for Diſeaſes ; fome take it for a Vo-
mit, others for a Purge. It has been fucceſs-
fully us'd against RheumatickPains in Edinburgh,
and London ; in the latter it has been lately
us'd to affwage the fwelling of a ftrained Foot,
a Cheek fwell'd with the Tooth- ach, and for
difcuffing a hard Boil, and proved ſucceſsful in
all the three cafes.

THERE is plenty of Cod, and Ling, of a


great fize, round this Ifle, the Improvement of
which might be of great Advantage.

THE Inhabitants are about two hundred in


Number, and are well proportioned, they
fpeak the Irish Language only ; their Habit is
much like that us'd in the adjacent Ifles, but
coarfer : They are not fubject to many Diſea-
fes ; they contract a Cough, as often as any
Strangers land and ſtay for any time among
them, and it continues for fome eight or ten
days ; they fay the very Infants on the Breaſt
are infected by it. The Men are ſtronger than
the Inhabitants of the oppofite weſtern Ifles ;
they
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 285

they feed much on Fowl, eſpecially the Solan


Geefe, Puffin, and Fulmar, cating no Salt with
them. This is believed to be the caufe of a Le
profie , that is broke out among them of late
one of them that was become Corpulent, and
had his throat almoſt ſhut up, being advis'd by
me to take Salt with his Meat, to exerciſe him-
felf more in the Fields than he had done of late,
to forbear eating of fat Fowl, and the fat Pud-
ding call'd Giben, and to eat Sorrel, was very
much concern'd, becauſe all this was very difa-
greeable ; and my adviſing him to eat Sorrel,
was perfectly a furprize to him : But when I
bid him confider how 1 the fat Fulmar eat this
Plant, he was at laſt diſpoſed to take my Ad-
vice ; and by this means alone in few days af
ter, his Voice was much clearer, his Appetite
recovered, and he was in a fair way of reco-
very. Twelve of theſe Lepers died the Year
after of this Distemper, and were in the fame
Condition with this Man.

BOTH Sexes have a Genius for Poeſie, and


compoſe entertaining Verfes and Songs, in their
own Language which is very Emphatical. Some
Years ago, about twenty of their Number hap
pened to be confined in the Rock Stack N'armin
for feveral days together, without any kind of
Food ; the Seaſon then not favouring their En-
deavours, to return home ; one of their Num-
ber plucked all theirs Knives out of the Hafts,
wrought a Hook out of each, and then beat.
them
286 A Description of the

them out to their former length ; he had a Stone


for an Anvil, and a Dagger for a Hammer and
File ; and with thefe rude Hooks, and a few
forry Fishing-lines, they purchaſed Fish for their
Maintenance,during their confinement for ſeve
ral Days in the Rock. All the Men in the life,
having gonetothe Ifle Boreray for purchaſe, the
Rope that faftened their Boat, happened to
break, and by this unlucky accident, the Boat
was quite loft, and the Poor People confined in
the Ifle, from the middle of March, till the
latter end of May ; without fo much as a cruft
of Bread, but they had Sheep, Fowl and Fish
in abundance. They were at a loss , how to
acquaint their Wives and Friends, that all of
them were alive ; but to effect this, they kind-
led as many Fires on the top of an Eminence,
as there was Men in Number ; this was no foo-
ner feen, and the Fires counted than the Women
underſtood the fignal, and were fo over-
joyed at this unexpected News, that they fell
to labour the Ground with the Foot-fpade, a
fatigue they had never been accuſtomed to ;
and that Years product of Corn, was the moſt
plentiful that they had for many Years before.
After the Stewards arrival in the Ifle, about
the end of May, he fent his Galley to bring home
all the Men confined in the Ifle, to their ſo
much longed for St. Kilda ; where the mutual
Joy between them and their Wives, and other
Relations was extraordinary.

THE
Western Islands of Scotland,&c. 187

THE Inhabitants are of the reformed Reli-

gion, they aſſemble in the Church-yard, on


the Lord's day, and in the Morning they fay
the Lord's Prayer, Creed, and ten Command-
ments : They work at no Imployment till Mon-
day, neither will they allow a Stranger to work
fooner. The Officer, or Stewards Deputy

Commonly, and fometimes any of their Neigh-


bours baptize their Children foon after they are
born ; and in the following form; A. I. I bap-
tize you to your Father and Mother, in the
Name of the Father, Son, and Holy Ghoſt.
They marry early and publickly, all the Na-
tives of both Sexes being prefent, the Officer
who performs the Marriage tenders a Crucifix
to the married Couple, who lay their right
hands on it, and then the Marriage is rati-
fied.

THEY obſerve the Feſtivals of Christmas,


Eafter, friday, and that of All-Saints, up-
Good-
on the latter they bake a large Cake, in form of
a Triangle, furrowed round, and it muſt be all
eaten that Night. They are Hofpitable, and
Charitable to Strangers, as well as the Poor
belonging to themſelves, for whom all the Fami-
lies contribute a Proportion monthly, and at
every Feſtival, each Family fends them a piece.
of Mutton or Beef.

THEY
288 A Defcription of the

THEY fwear decifive Oaths by the Crucifix,


and this puts an end to any Controverfie, for
there is not one Inftance, or the leaſt fufpicion
of Perjury among them . The Crucifix is of
Brafs, and about nine inches in length, it lies
upon the Altar, but they pay no Religious
Worship to it. One of the Inhabitants was fo
fincere,that (rather than forfwear himſelf onthe
Crucifix) he confefs'd a Capital Crime before
the Miniſter, and my felf. They never Swear,
or Steal, neither do they take Gods Name in
vain at any time ; they are free from Whore-
dom and Adultery, and of those other Immo-
ralities that abound fo much every where
elfe.

ONE of the Inhabitants called Roderick,


Fellow that could not Read, obtruded a falle
Religion upon the credulous People, which he
pretended to have receiv'd from St. John the
Baptift. It is Remarkable, that in his Rapfo
dies, which he called Prayers, he had the word
Eli, and to this purpoſe, Eli is our Preferver.
There is a little Hill, upon which he fays Jahn
the Baptift deliver'd Sermons and Prayers to
him ; this he call'd John's-Bush, and made the
People believe it was fo Sacred, that if either
Cow or Sheep did taſte of its grafs, they were
to be killed immediately after, and the Owners
were to eat them, but never without the Com-
pany ofthe Impoftor. He made them likewiſe
believe
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 289
believe that each of them had a Tutelar Saint
in Heaven to intercede for them, and the An-
niversary of every one of thofe was to be ne-
ceffarily obferv'd, by having a fplendid Treat,
at which the Impoftor was always the principal
Perfon. He taught the Women a Devour
Hymn, which he faid he had from the Virgin
Mary ; he made them believe that it fecur'd

any Woman from Miscarriage that could repeat


it by heart, and each of them paid the Impo-
ftor a Sheep for it.

UPON Mr. Campbel's Arrival and mine in


St. Kilda, Roderick made a Publick Recantation
of his Impoſture ; and being then by us brought
to the Ifle of Harries, and afterwards to the
Ifle of Skie, he has made Publick Confeffion in
feveral Churches of his Converſe with the De-
vil, and not John the Baptiſt, as he pretended,
and ſeems to be very penitent. He is now in
Skie Ifle, from whence he is never to return to
his Native Country. His Neighbours are
heartily glad to be rid of fuch a Villain , and
are now happily deliver'd from the Errors he •
impoſed upon them. The Ifle is the Laird of

Mack- Leod's Property, he is Head of one of


the most ancient Tribes in the Ifles ; he be-
ſtows the Ifle upon a Cadet of his Name, whoſe
Fortune is low, to maintain his Family, and
he is called Steward of it ; he vifits the Ifle
once every Summer, to demand the Rents, viz,
Down, Wooll, Butter, Cheefe, Cows, Hor-
T fes,
290 A Deſcription of the
fes, Fowl, Oil, and Barley. The Stewards
Deputy is one of the Natives, and ſtays al-
ways upon the place ; he has free Lands, and
an Omer of Barley from each Family ; and has
the honour ofbeing the firſt and laſt in theirBoat,
as they go and come to the leffer Ifles or Rocks.
The ancient meaſure of Omer and Cubit con-
tinues to be us'd in this Ifle. They have nei-
ther Gold nor Silver, but Barter among them-
felves and the Stewards Men for what they
want. Some years ago the Steward determin'd
to exact a Sheep from every Family in the Ifle,
the number amounting to twenty feven ; and
for this he put them in mind of a late Precedent,
of their having given the like number to his
Predeceffor. But they answer'd, that what

they gave then, was voluntary, and upon an


extraordinary occafion of his being Wind-bound
in the lfle, and that this was not to be a Cu-
ftom afterwards. However the Steward fent his
Brother, and with him a competent number of
Men to take the Sheep from them by force,
but the Natives arming themſelves with their
Daggers, and Fishing-Rods, attack'd the
Stewards Brother, giving him fome blows on
the head, and forc'd him and his Party to retire,
and told him that they would pay no new
Taxes ; and by this ftout refiftance, they pre-
ferv'd their Freedom from fuch impofition.

THE Inhabitants live contentedly together


in a little Village on the Eaft fide St. Kilda,
which
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 29r

which they commonly call the Country ; and


the Ifle Boreray, which is little more than two
Leagues diftant from them, they call the Nor-
thern Country. The diftance between their
Houſes is by them called the High-ſtreet ; their
Houſes are low built of Stone, and a cement of
dry Earth ; they have Couples and Ribs of
Wood cover'd with thin earthen Turff, thatch'd
over theſe with Straw, and the Roof fecur'd on
each fide with double ropes of Straw or Heath ,
pois'd at the end with many Stones ; their Beds
are commonly made in the Wall of their Hou-
fes, and they lie on Straw, but never on Fea-
thers or Down, tho' they have them in greater
plenty than all the Weſtern Ifles befides. The
Reaſon for making their Bed- room in the Walls
of their Houſes, is to make room for their
Cows, which they take in during the Winter
and Spring.

THEY are very exact in their Properties,


and divide both the Fishing as well as Fowling
Rocks with as great nicenefs as they do their
Corn and Grafs $ one will not allow his Neigh-
bour to fit and Fiſh on his Seat, for this being
a part of his Poffeffion, he will take care that
no encroachment be made upon the leaſt part
of it, and this with a particular regard to their
Succeffors, that they may lofe no Privilege de-
pending upon any parcel of their Farm. They
have but one Boat in the Ifle, and every Man
hath a ſhare in it, proportionably to the Acres
T 2 of
292 A Deſcription of the
of Ground for which they pay Rent. They are
ftout Rowers, and will tug at the Oar for a
long time, without any intermiffion . When
they Sail they uſe , no Compafs, but take their
meaſures from the Sun , Moon, or Stars ; and
they rely much on the courfe of the various
Flocks of Sea-Fowl, and this laſt is their fureft
Directory. When they go to the leffer Ifles
and Rocks to bring home Sheep, or any other
Purchaſe, they carry an iron Pot with them,
and each Family furniſhes one by turns, and
the Owner on fuch Occafions, has a ſmall Tax
paid him by all the Families in the Ifle, which
is by them call'd the Pot- penny.

THERE was another Tax payed by each


Family to one of the Natives, as often as they
kindled a Fire in any ofthe leffer Ifles or Rocks,
and that for the ufe of his Steel and Flint ; and
this was by them call'd the Fire-penny.

THIS Tax was very advantageous to the


Proprietor, but very uneafic to the Common-
wealth, who could not be furniſh'd with Fire
on thefe Occafions any other way. But I

told them that the Chryftal growing in the


Rock on the fhoar would yield Fire if ſtruck
with the back of a Knife, and of this I fhew'd
them an Experiment ; which when they faw,
was a very furprizing, and to them a profita-
ble Diſcovery in their efteem, being fuch as
could be had by every Man in the Iſle ; and at
the
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &:. 293
the fame time deliver'd them from an endleſs
Charge ; but it was very difobliging to the poor
Man who loft his Tax by it.

THE Inhabitants of St. Kilda excel all


thoſe I ever ſaw in climbing Rocks ; they told
me that fome years ago their Boat was split
to pieces upon the Weft fide of Boreray fle ,
and they were forc'd to lay hold on a bare
Rock, which was ſteep, and above twenty Fa-
thom high; notwithstanding this difficulty,
fome of them climb'd up to the top, and from
thence let down a Rope, and Plads, and fo
drew up all the Boats Crew, tho' the climbing
this Rock would feem impoffible to any other
except themſelves.

THIS little Commonwealth hath two Ropes


of about twenty four Fathoms length cach ,
for climbing the Rocks, which they do by:
turns ; the Ropes are fecur'd all round with
Cows Hides falted for the uſe, and which pre-
ſerves them from being cut by the edge of the
Rocks. By the affiftance of theſe Ropes they-
purchaſe a great number of Eggs and Fowl ; I
have ſeen them bring home in a Morning twenty
nine large Baskets all full of Eggs ; the leaft of
the Baskets contain'd four hundred big Eggs ,
and the reft eight hundred and above of leffer
Eggs. They had with them at the fame time
about two thouſand Sea-Fowl, and fome Fith,
together with fome Limpets, call'd Parella,
T 3 the
294 A Deſcription of the

the biggeſt I ever faw. They catch many


Fowls likewife, by laying their Gins which
are made of Horfe-hair, having a Nooſe at the
diftance of two Foot each ; the ends of the

Rope at which the Noofe hangs are fecur'd by a


Stone.

THE Natives gave me an account of a very


extraordinary Rifque which one ofthem ran as
laying his Gins, which was thus. As he was
walking barefoot along the Rock where he had
fixed his Gin, he happen'd to put his Toe in a
Noofe, and immediately fell down the Rock,
but hung by the Toe, the Gin being ſtrong
enough to hold him, and the Stones that fe-
cur'd it on each end being heavy, the poor
Man continu'd hanging thus for the ſpace of a
Night on a Rock twenty Fathom height above
the Sea, until one of his Neighbours hearing
him cry, came to his refcue, drew him up by
the Feet, and fa fav'd him.

THESE Poor People do fometimes fall


down as they climb the Rocks, and periſh :
Their Wives on fuch occafions make doleful
Songs, which they call Lamentations. The
chief Topicks are their Courage, their Dexte
rity in Climbing, and their great affection
which they fhewed to their Wives and Chil
dren.

IT
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 295

IT is ordinary with a Fowler after he has


got his Purchaſe of Fowls, to pluck the Fateft,
and carry it home to his Wife as a mark of his
Affection, and this is called the Rock-Fowl.

THE Batchellors do in like manner carry


this Rock-Fowl to their Sweet-hearts, and it is
the greateſt Preſent they can make, confider-
ing the danger they run in acquiring it.

THE Richest Man in the Iſle has not above


eight Cows, eighty Sheep, and two or three
Horfes. If a Native here have but a few
Cattle, he will Marry a Woman tho' fhe have
no other Portion from her Friends but a Pound
of Horfe-hair, to make a Gin to catch Fowls.

THE Horfes here are very low of ftature,


and employ'd only to carry home their Peats
and Turff, which is their Fuel. The Inhabi-
tants ride their Horfes(which were but eighteen
in all) at the Anniverſary Cavalcade of All
Saints ; this they never fail to oblerve. They
· begin at the fhoar, and ride as far as the Hou-
fes ; they uſe no Saddles of any kind, nor
Bridle, except a Rope of Straw which manages
the Horſes head ; and when they have all ta-
ken the Horſes by turns, the Show is over for
that time.

ΤΑ THIS
ion
296 A Defcript of the

THIS Ile produces the fineſt Hawks in the



Weſtern ifles, for they go many Leagues for
their Prey, there being no Land- Fowl in St. Kilda
proper for them to eat, except Pigeons, and
Plovers ,

ONE of the Inhabitants of St. Kilda being


fome time ago Wind bound in the Ifle of Har-
ries, was prevail'd on by fome of them that
Traded to Glasgow to go thither with them.
He was aftonifh'd at the length of the Voyage,
and of the great Kingdoms as he thought ' em,
that is Ifles by which they Sail'd ; the largeſt
in his way did not exceed twenty four Miles
in length, but he confider'd how much they
exceeded his own little Native Country.

UPON his Arrival at Glafcow, he was like


one that had dropt from the Clouds into a new
World; whofe Language, Habit, &c. were in
all refpects new to him ; he never imagin'd
that fuch big Houfes of Stone were made with
hands ; and for the Pavements of the Streets,
he thought it muft needs be altogether Natural ;
for he could not believe that Men would be at
the pains to beat ftones into the ground to
walk upon. He stood dumb at the door of
his Lodging with the greateſt admiration ; and
when he faw a Coach and two Horfes, he
thought it to be a little Houſe they were
drawing at their Tail, with Men in it ; but he
condemn'd
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 297
condemn'd the Coach- man for a Fool to fit fo
uneafie, for he thought it fafer to fit on the
horfes back. The Mechaniſm of the Coach-
Wheel, and its running about, was the greateſt
of all his Wonders.

WHEN he went through the Streets, he


defired to have one to lead him by the hand.
Thomas Rofs a Merchant, and others, that took
the diverfion to carry him through the Town,
"
ask'd his Opinion of the high Church ? He
anfwer'd, that it was a large Rock, yet there
were fome in St. Kilda much higher, but that
theſe were the beft Caves he ever faw ; for
that was the Idea which he conceiv'd of the

Pillars and Arches upon which the Church


ftands. When they carried him into the
Church, he was yet more furpriz'd, and held
up his hands with admiration, wondring how
it was poffible for Men to build fuch a prodi
gious Fabrick, which he fuppos'd to be the
largeſt in the Univerfe. He could not imagine
what the Pews were defign'd for, and he fan-
cied the People that wore Masks (not knowing
whether they were Men or Women,) had been
guilty of fome ill thing, for which they dar'd
not fhew their faces. He was amazed at Wo-
'
mens wearing Patches, and fancied them to
have been Bliſters. Pendants feem'd to him the
moft ridiculous of all things ; he condemn'd
Perriwigs mightily, and much more the Pow-
der us'd in them ; in fine, he condemn'd all
things
298 A Deſcription of the

things as fuperfluous, he faw not in his own


Country. He look'd with amazement on
every thing that was new to him . When he
heard the Church Bells ring he was under a
mighty confternation, as if the Fabrick of the
World had been in great diſorder. He did not
think there had been fo many People in the
World, as in the City of Glafcow ; and it was a
great Myſtery to him to think what they could
all defign by living ſo many in one place. He
wondred how they could all be furniſh'd with
Provifion, and when he faw big Loaves, he
could not tell whether they were Bread, Stone,
or Wood. He was amaz'd to think how they
could be provided with Ale, for he neverfaw
any there that drank Water. He wondred
how they made them fine Cloaths, and to fee
Stockings made without being first cut, and
afterwards fewn, was no fmall wonder to
him. He thought it foolish in Women to
wear thin Silks, as being a very improper habit
for fuch as pretended to any fort of Employ
ment. When he faw the Womens Feet, he
judged them to be of another ſhape than thofe
of the Men, because of the different ſhape of
their Shooes. He did not approve ofthe heels
of Shooes worn by Men or Women ; and when
he obferv'd Horfes with fhooes on their feet,
and faſtned with Iron Nails, he could not for-
bear laughing, and thought it the moſt ridicu
lous thing that ever fell under his obſervation.
He long'd to fee his Native Country again,
and
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 299

and paffionately wifh'd it were bleſſed with


Ale, Brandy, Tobacco and Iron, as Glafcow
was.

THERE's a Couple of Large Eagles who


have their Neft on the North end of the Ifle ;
the Inhabitants told me that they commonly
make their Purchaſe in the adjacent Ifles and
Continent, and never take ſo much as a Lamb
or Hen from the Place of their Abode, where
they propagate their kind. I forgot to give an
account of a fingular Providence that happen'd
to a Native of the Isle of Skie, called Neil,
who when an Infant was left by his Mother
in the Field, not far from the Houſes on the
North fide Loch Portrie ; an Eagle came in the
mean time, and carried him away in its Tallons
as far as the ſouth ſide of the Loch, and there
laying him on the ground, fome People that
were herding Sheep there perceiv'd it, and
hearing the Infant cry, ran immediately to its
refcue ; and by good Providence found him
untouch'd by the Eagle, and carried him home
to his Mother. He is ftill living in that Pa-
rifh, and by reaſon of this Accident , is diſtin-
guifh'd among his Neighbours by the Sirname
of Eagle.

An
3co A Deſcription of the

An Account of the Second Sight, in Irish


call'd Taifh.

HE Second Sight is a fingular Faculty of


TH Seeing, an otherwiſe invifible Object,
without any previous Means us'd by the Per-
fon that fees it for that end ; the Viſion makes
fuch a lively impreffion upon the Seer, that
they neither fee nor think of any thing elſe,
except the Viſion, as long as it continues ; and
then they appear Penfive, or Jovial, ac-
cording to the Object which was repreſented to
them .

AT the fight of a Viſion the Eye- lids ofthe


Perſon are erected, and the Eyes continue fta-
ring until the Object vaniſh. This is obvious
to others who are by, when the Perfons hap-
pen to ſee a Vifion , and occur'd more than
once to my own Obfervation, and to others
that were with me.

THERE is one in Skie, of whom his Ac-.


quaintance obſerved,that when he fees a Vifion ,
the inner part of his Eye-lids turn fo far up-
wards, that after the Object difappears, he
muft draw them down with his Fingers , and
fometimes employs others to draw them down,
which he finds to be the much easier way.

THIS
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 301

THIS Faculty of the Second Sight does not


Lineally deſcend in a Family, as fome imagine,
for I know feveral Parents who are endowed
with it, but their Children not, & vice verfa :
Neither is it acquir'd by any previous Compact.
And after a ſtrict Enquiry, I could never learn
from any among them, that this Faculty was
communicable any way whatſoever.

THE Seer knows neither the Object, time


nor place of a Vifion before it appears, and
the fame Object is often ſeen by different Per-
fons, living at a confiderable diſtance from one
another. The true way of judging as to the
time and circumftance of an Object , is by ob-
fervation ; for ſeveral Perfons of Judgment
without this Faculty, are more capable to judge .
of the deſign of a Vifion, than a Novice that
is a Seer. If an Object appear in the Day or
Night, it will come to pafs fooner or later ac-
cordingly.

IF an Object is feen early in a Morning


(which is not frequent) it will be accomplish'd
in a few hours afterwards. If at Noon , it will
commonly be accompliſh'd that very day. If
in the Evening, perhaps that Night, if after
Candles be lighted , it will be accompliſh'd that
Night ; the latter always in accompliſhment,
by Weeks, Months, and fometimes Years, ac-

cording
302 A Deſcription of the

cording to the time of Night the Vifion is


feen.

WHEN a Shroud is perceiv'd about one, it


is a fure Prognoſtick of Death, the time is
judged according to the height of it about the
Perfon ; for if it is not feen above the middle,
death is not to be expected for the space of a
year, and perhaps fome Months longer ; and
as it is frequently feen to afcend higher towards
the head, Death is concluded to be at hand
within a few days, if not hours, as daily expe
rience confirms.Examples of this kind were
fhewn me, when the Perfons of whom the ob-
fervations then made enjoy'd perfect health.

ONE Inftance was lately foretold by a Seer


that was a Novice, concerning the death of one
of my Acquaintance ; this was communicated
to a few only, and with great confidence, I
being one of the number, did not in the leaſt
regard it, until the death of the Perſon about
the time foretold, did confirm me of the certainty
of the Prediction . The Novice mention'd
above, is now a skilful Seer, as appears from
many late inftances ; he lives in the Parish of
St. Maries, the moft Northern in Skie.

IF a Woman is ſeen ſtanding at a Man's left


hand, it is a prefage that the will be his Wife,
whether they be Married to others, or unmar
ried at the time of the Apparition .
IF
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 303

IF two or three Women are ſeen at once


ftanding near a Mans left hand , the that is
next him will undoubtedly be his Wife firft,
and ſo on, whether all three, or the Man be
fingle or married at the time of the Viſion or
not, of which there are feveral late Inftances
among thoſe of my Acquaintance. It is an
ordinary thing for them to fee a Man that is
to come to the Houſe fhortly after ; and if he
is not of the Seers Acquaintance, yet he gives
fuch a lively deſcription of his Stature, Com-
plection, Habit, &c. that upon his Arrival he
anſwers the Character given him in all re-
fpects.

IF the Perſon ſo appearing be one of the


Seer's Acquaintance, he will tell his Name, as
well as other Particulars , and he can tell by
his Countenance whether he comes in a good
or bad humour.

I have been ſeen thus my felf by Seers of


both Sexes at ſome hundred miles diſtance ;
fome that faw me in this manner, had never
feen me Perfonally, and it happened according
to their Viſions, without any previous defign
of mine to go to thofe Places, my coming
there being purely accidental.

IT is ordinary with them to fee Houſes,


Gardens and Trees, in Places void of all three ;
and
304 A Defcription of the

and this in procefs of time uſes to be accom-


plifhed, as at Mogftot in the Isle of Skie, where
there were but a few forry Cow- houſes thatched
with Straw, yet in a few years after, the Vi-
fion which appear'd often was accompliſh'd ,
by the building of feveral good Houſes on the
very ſpot reprefented to the Seers, and by the
Planting of Orchards there.

TO ſee a ſpark of fire fall upon ones Arm


or Breaſt, is a forerunner of a dead Child to
be ſeen in the arms of thoſe Perſons, of which
there are feveral freſh Inſtances.

TO ſee a Seat empty at the time of ones


fitting in it, is a prefage of that Perſons death
quickly after.

WHEN a Novice, or one that has lately


obtain'd the Second Sight, fees a Viſion in the
Night time without doors, and comes near a
fire, he preſently falls into a fwoon.

SOME find themſelves as it were in a croud

of People, having a Corpfe which they carry


along with them, and after fuch Vifions the
Seers come in ſweating, and deſcribe the People
that appear'd>; if there be any oftheir Acquaint-
ance among em, they give an account of their
Names, as alfo of the Bearers, but they know
nothing concerning the Corps.

ALL
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 305

ALL thoſe who have the Second Sight do


not always ſee theſe Viſions at once, tho' they
be together at the time . But if one who has
this Faculty, defignedly touch his Fellow Seer
at the inſtant of a Vifions appearing, then the
fecond fees it as well as the firft, and this is
fometimes difcern'd by thoſe that are near them
on fuch occafions.

THERE is a way of foretelling Death by a


Cry that they call Taisk, which ſome call a
Wrath in the Low- land .

THEY hear a loud Cry without doors, ex-


actly reſembling the voice of fome particular
Perfon, whoſe death is foretold by it. The
laſt inſtance given me of this kind was in the
Village Rigg, in Skie Iſle .

FIVE Women were fitting together in the


fame Room, and all of them heard a loud
Cry paffing by the Window ; they thought it
plainly to be the voice of a Maid who was one
of the Number, the blushed at the time, tho'
not fenfible of her fo doing, contracted a
Feaver next day , and died that Week.

THINGS alfo are foretold by Smelling,


fometimes as follows. Fish or Flefh is fre-
quently smelled in a fire , when at the fame
time neither of the two are in the Houſe, or
U in
306 A Deſcription of the
in any probability like to be had in it for ſome
Weeks or Months, for they feldom eat Fleſh,
and tho' the Sea be near them, yet they catch
Fish but feldom, in the Winter and Spring.
This Smell feveral, Perfons have who are not
endued with the Second Sight, and it is always
accompliſh'd foon after.

Children, Horfes and Cows fee the Second


Sight, as well as Men and Women advanced in
years.

THAT Children fee it is plain, from their


crying aloud at the very inftant that a Corpſe
or any other Vifion appears to an ordinary
Seer. I was preſent in a Houſe where a Child

cried out of a fuddain , and being ask'd the rea-


fon of it, he anſwer'd that he had ſeen a great
white thing lying on the Board which was in
the Corner ; but he was not believ'd, until a
Seer who was preſent told them that the Child
was in the right ; for, faid he, I faw a Corpfe
and the fhroud about it, • and the Board will
be us❜d as part of a Coffin, or fome way im-
ployed about a Corple ; and accordingly, it
was made into a Coffin , for one who was in
perfect health at the time of the Viſion.

THAT Horſes ſee it is likewife plain, from


their violent and ſudden ſtarting, when the
Rider or Seer in Company with him fees a Vi-
fion of any kind, Night, or Day. It is ob
fervable
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 307

fervable of the Horfe, that he will not go for-


ward that way, until he be lead about at fome
diftance from the common Road, and then he
is in a ſweat.

A Horfe faftned by the common Road onthe


fide of Loch-Skerinefs in Skie, did break his
Rope at Noon day, and run up and down with-
out the leaft vifible caufe. But two of the
Neighbourhood that happen'd to be at a little
diſtance, and in view of the Horſe, did at the
fame time fee a confiderable number of Men
about a Corpfe, directing their courſe to the
Church of Snifort ; and this was accomplish'd
within a few days after, by the Death of a
Gentlewoman who lived thirteen Miles from
that Church , and came from another Parish,
from whence very few come to Snifort to be
Buried.

THAT Cows fee the Second Sight, appears


from this ; that when a Woman is Milking a
Cow, and then happens to fee the Second Sight,
the Cow runs away in a great fright at the
fame time, and will not be pacified for fome
time after.

BEFORE I mention more particulars dif-


cover'd by the Second Sight, it may not be
amifs to anſwer the Objections that have lately
been made againſt the reality of it.

U 2 Object.
308 A Deſcription of the

Objet. 1. Thefe Seers are Vifionary and


Melancholy People, and fancy they fee things
that do not appear to them, or any body
elfe.

Anfwer. The People of thefe Ifles, and parti-


cularly the Seers, are very temperate, and
their Diet is fimple, and moderate, in quantity
and quality, fo that their Brains are not in all
probability difordered by undigeted Fumes of
Meat or Drink. Both Sexes are free from
Hyfterick Fits, Convulfions, and feveral other
Distempers of that fort ; there's no Madmen
among them, nor any inftance of felf-murther.
It is obferv'd among ' em , that a Man Drunk
never fees the Second Sight ; and he that is a
Viſionary would difcover himſelf in other
things as well as in that, and ſuch as ſee it, are
not judged to be Viſionarys by any of their
Friends or Acquaintance.

Object. 2. There is none among the Learn'd


able to oblige the World with a fatisfying ac-
count of thoſe Viſions, therefore it is not to be
believed.

Anfwer. Ifevery thing for which the Learned


are not able to give a fatisfying account be
condemn'd as impoffible, we may find many
other things generally believed, that muſt be
rejected as falfe by this Rule. For inſtance ,
Yawning,
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 309

Yawning,& its influence ; & that the Load-ftone


attracts Iron, and yet theſe are true as well as
harmleſs, tho' we can give no fatisfying ac
count of their Cauſes. And if we know fo
little of Natural Caufes, how much leſs can
we pretend to things that are fupernatural.

Object. 3. The Seers are Impoftors, and the


People who believe them, are credulous, and
eafily impofed upon .

Answer. The Seers are generally illiterate,


and well-meaning People, and altogether void
of defign, nor could I ever learn that any of
them made the leaft gain by it, neither is it
reputable among ' em to have that Faculty ; be-
·
fides the People of the Ifles are not fo credu
lous as to believe implicitely, before the thing
foretold is accompliſhed, but when it actually
comes to pafs afterwards , it is not in their
power to deny it, without offering violence to
their Senfes and Reaſon. Befides, ifthe Seers
were deceivers, can it be reaſonable to imagine,
that all the Iflanders who have not the Second

Sight, fhould combine together, and offer vio-


lence to their Underſtandings and Senfes , to
force themſelves to believe a Lye from Age to
Age. There are feveral Perfons among them,
whofe Birth and Education raife them above.
the fufpicion of concurring with an Impoſture,
meerly to gratifie an illiterate and contemptible
fort of Perfons; nor can a reaſonable Man believe
U 3 shat
310 A Defcription of the
that Children, Horfes and Cows could be pre-
ingaged in a Combination to perfwade the
World ofthe reality of the Second Sight.

SUCH as deny thoſe Viſions, give their af


fent to ſeveral ſtrange paffages in Hiftory, up-
on the Authority of Hiftorians that lived feve-
ral Centuries before our time, and yet they
deny the People ofthis Generation the liberty
to believe their intimate Friends and Acquain-
fance, Men of probity and unquestionable Re-
putation, and of whofe veracity they have
greater certainty, than we can have of any
ancient Hiftorian,

EVERY Viſion that is feen comes exactly


to paſs, according to the true Rules of Obfer
vation, tho' Novices and heedlefs Perfons do
not always judge by thofe Rules. I re-
member the Seers return'd me this Anſwer
to my Objection, and gaye feveral Inftan-
ces to that purpoſe, whereofthe following is
one.

A Boy of my acquaintance was often fur-


priz'd at the fight of a Coffin clofe by his
fhoulder, which put him into a fright, and
made him to believe it was a forerunner of his
own Death, and this his Neighbours alfo judg-
edto be the meaning of that Vifion ; but à Seer
that lived in the Village Knockow , where the
Boy was then a Servant, told them that they
were
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 311

were under a great miſtake, and defired the


*
Boy to lay hold of the firſt opportunity that
offered ; and when he went to a Burial, to re
member to act as a Bearer for fome moments,
and this he did accordingly, within a few days
after, when one of his Acquaintance died ;
and from that time forward he was never trou-
bled with feeing a Coffin at his fhoulder, tho'
he has ſeen many at a diſtance that concerned
others. He is now reckoned one of the exact-
eſt Seers in the Parish of St. Maries in Skie,
where he lives.

THERE is another inftance of a Woman in


Skie, who frequently faw a Vifion repreſenting
a Woman having a Shroud about her up to the
middle, but always appear'd with her back to-
wards her, and the Habit in which it ſeem'd to
be dreſs'd reſembled her own ; this was a My-

ftery for fome time, until the Woman try'd an


Experiment to fatisfie her Curiofity, which was
to dreſs her felf contrary to the ufual way,
that is, he put that part of her Cloaths be-
hind, which was always before, fancying that
the Viſion at the next appearing would be the
eafier diftinguished, and it fell out accordingly,
for the Viſion foon after prefented its felt
with its face and dress looking towards the
Woman, and it prov'd to refemble her felf in
in all points, and he died in a little time
after.

U 4 THERE
1
312 A Defcription of the

THERE are Vifions leen by feveral Perſons ,


in whofe days they are not accompliſhed, and
this is one of the reafons, why fome things have
been ſeen that are faid never to come to pass,
and there are alfo feveral Viſions ſeen which
are not underſtood until they be accompliſhed.

THE fecond Sight is not a late diſcovery


feen by one or two in a Corner, or a remote
Ifle, but it is feen by many Perſons of both
Sexes in feveral Ifles, feperated above forty or
fifty Leagues from one another, the Inhabitants
of many of theſe Ifles, never had the leaft con-

verfe by Word or Writing ; and this faculty of


feeing Viſions, having continued as we are in-
formed by Tradition, ever fince the Plantation

of thefe Ifles, without being difproved by the
niceſt Sceptick, after the ftricteft enquiry ſeems
to be a clear proof of its reality.

IT is obfervable, that it wasmuch more com-


mon twenty Years ago than at prefent, for one
in ten do not fee it now, that faw it then.

THE fecond fight is not confined to the


weſtern Ifles alone, for I have an account that
A
it is likewiſe ſeen in feveral parts of Holland,
but particularly in Bommel, by a Woman, for
which he is courted by tome, and dreaded by
others. She fecs a Smoak about ones Face,
which is a forerunner of the death of a Perfon
fa
Weſtern Islands of Scotland, &c. 313
fo ſeen , and ſhe did actually foretel the death
of feveral that lived there ; fhe was living in
that Town this laſt Winter.

THE Corps-candles, or Dead- mens Lights


inWales,which are certain Prognoſticks of Death
are well known and atteſted.

THE fecond fight is likewife feen in the


Ifle of Man, as appears by this Inftance ; Cap-
tain Leaths the Chief Magiftrate of Belfaſt, in
his Voyage 1690, loft thirteen Men by a vio
lent Storm, and upon his landing in the Ifle of
Man, an ancient Man Clerk to a Pariſh there,
told him immediately that he had loft thirteen
Men, the Captain enquiring how he came to
the knowledge of that, he answered, that it was
by thirteen Lights which he had feen come into
the Church-Yard, as Mr. Sacheverel tells us,
in his late Deſcription of the Iſle of Man.

IT were ridiculous to fuppofe a Combinati-


on between the People of the weſtern Ifles of
Scotland, Holland, Wales, and the Iſle of Man,
fince they are ſeparated by long Seas, and are
People of different Languages, Governments,
and Interefts : They have no Correfpondence
between them, and it is probable, that thoſe
inhabiting the North Weſt Ifles have never yet
heard that any fuch Viſions are ſeen in Holland,
Wals, or he iſle of Man.

FOUR
314 A Defcription of the

FOUR Men ofthe Village Flodgery in Skie,


being at Supper, one of them did fuddenly let
fall his Knife on the Table, and looked with an
angry Countenance, the Company obferving it,
enquired his Reaſon, but he return'd them no
anfwer until they bad fupp'd, and then he told
them that when he let fall his Knife, he faw a
Corps with the Shroud about it laid on the
Table,which furpriz'd him, and that a little time
would accompliſh the Vifion. It fell out accor-
dingly, for in a few days after one ofthe Family
died,and happen'd to be laid on that very Table,
this was told me by the Maſter of the Family.

Daniel Stewart an Inhabitant of Hole in the


North Parish of St. Maries in the Ifle of Skie,
faw at Noon-day five Men on Horſe-back ri-
ding Northward, he ran to meet them, and
when he came to the Road, he could fee none of
them, which was very furprizing to him, & he
told it his Neighbours, the very next day he ſaw
the fame number of Men and Horſe, coming a-
long the Road, but was not fo ready to meet
them as before, until he heard them ſpeak, and
then he found them to be thoſe that he had

feen the day before in a Viſion, this was the


only Viſion of the kind he had ever ſeen in his
Life. The Company he faw was Sir Donald
Mac Donald and his retinue, who at the time of
the Vifion was at Armidil, near forty Miles
South from the place where the Man lived.

A Woman of Sternbay in Lewis, had a Maid


who faw Viſions, and often fell into a Swoon ;
her
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 315
her Miftris was very much concern'd about her,
but could not find out any means to prevent her,
feeing thoſe things at laft the refolved to pour
fome ofthe Water us'a in Baptifm on her Maids
Face, believing this would prevent her feeing
any more Sights of this kind, and accordingly
fhe carried her Maid with her, next Lord's
Day, andboth of ' em fat near the Bafin in which
the Water ſtood, and after Baptifm before the
Minifter had concluded the laft Prayer, the pur
her hand in the Bafin, took up as much Water
as ſhe could, and threw it on the Maids Face,
at which ſtrange action the Miniſter and the
Congregation were equally furpriz'd ; after
Prayer the Minifter enquir'd of the Woman the
meaning of fuch an unbecoming and diſtracted
action, ſhe told him it was to prevent her Maids
feeing Viſions ; and it fell out accordingly, for
from that time ſhe never once more faw a Vifi-
on of any kind. This account was given me
by Mr. Morifon, Minifter of the Place, before
feveral ofhis Pariſhioners who knew the truth of
it, I fubmit the matter of fact to the cenfure of
the Learned, but for my own part, think it to
have been one of Satans Devices, to make cre-

dulous People have an eſteem for Holy Water.

John Morifon of Bragir in Lewis, a Perſon


of unquestionable Sincerity and Reputation,told
me, that within a Mile of his Houfe a Girl of
twelve Years Old, was troubled at the frequent
fight of a Viſion reſembling her felf, in Stature,
Com-
316 A Defcription of the

Complexion, Drefs, &c. and feem'd to ſtand


or fit and to be always Imployed as the Girl
was ; this prov'd a great trouble to her, her
Parents being much concern'd about it, conful-
ted the faid John Morifon, who enquired if the
Girl was inftructed in the Principles of her Reli-
gion, and finding fhe was not, he bid them
teach her the Creed, ten Commandments, and
the Lord's Prayer, and that ſhe ſhould ſay the
latter daily after her Prayers. Mr. Morifon and
his Family joyn'd in Prayer in the Girls behalf,
begging that God of his goodness would be
pleas'd to deliver her from the trouble offuch a
Vifion, after which and the Girl's complying
with the advice as above, the never faw it any
more.

A Man living three Miles to the North of


the faid John Morifon, is much haunted by a
Spirit, appearing in all Points like to himself;
and he asks many impertinent Queſtions of
the Man when in the Fields, but fpeaks not a
word to him at home, tho' he ſeldom miffes to
appear to him every night in the Houſe, but
to no other Perfon. He told this to one of his
Neighbours, V who advis'd him to caft a live
Coal at the face of the Viſion the next time he
appear'd ; the Man did fo next night, and all
the Family faw the action ; but the following
day the fame Spirit appear'd to him in the
Fields, and beat him feverely, fo as to oblige
him to keep his Bed for the ſpace of fourteen
days
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 317

days after. Mr. Morifon Miniſter of the Pariſh,


and feveral of his Friends came to fee the Man,
and join'd in Prayer that he might be freed
from this trouble, but he was ftill haunted by
that Spirit a year after I left Lewis.

A Man in Knockow, in the Parish of St. Ma-


ries, the Northermoft in Skie, being in perfec
health, and fitting with his Fellow Servants ar
Night, was on a fuddain taken ill, dropt from
his Seat backward, and then fell a Vomiting,
at which all the Family were much concern'd,
he having never been fubject to the like before,
but he came to himſelf foon after, and had no
fort of pain about him. One ofthe Family

who was accuſtomed to ſee the Second Sight,


told them that the Mans ilneſs proceeded from
a very ftrange Caufe, which was thus. An ill
natur'd Woman (naming her by her Name)
who lives in the next adjacent Village of Born-
Skittag, came before him in a very furious and
angry manner, her Countenance full of Paffion,
and her Mouth full of Reproaches, and
threatned him with her head and hands, until
he fell over as you have feen him. This Wo-
man had a fancy for the Man, but was like to
meet with a diſappointment as to his Marrying
her. This Inftance was told me by the Maſter
of the Family, and others who were prefent
when it happen'd .

ONE
"
ion
cript
318 A Deſ of the

ONE that liv'd in St. Maries on the Weft


fide of the Isle of Skie, told Mr. Mack Pherson
the Minifter, and others, that he faw a Vifion
of a Corpfe coming towards the Church, not
by the common Road, but by a more rugged
Way, which rendred the thing incredible, and
occafion'd his Neighbours to call him a Fool ;
but he bid them have patience, and they would
fée the truth of what he afferted in a fhort
time, and it fell out accordingly ; for one of
the Neighbourhood died, and his Corpfe was
carried along the fame unaccustomed Way, the
common Road being at that time filled with a
deep Snow. This Account was given me by
the Miniſter, and others living there.

Mr. Mack Pherfon's Servant foretold that a


Kiln fhould take fire, and being fome time after
reprov'd by his Mafter for talking ſo fooliſhly
of the Second Sight, he anſwer'd that he could
not help his feeing fuch things as preſented
themſelves to his view in a very lively manner ;

adding further, I have juſt now feen that Boy


fitting by the fire, with his face red, as if the
blood had been running down his forehead,
and I could not avoid feeing this, and as for
the accompliſhment of it within forty eight
hours there is no doubt, fays he, it having ap-
pear'd in the day time. The Minifter became
very angry at his Man, and charg'd him never
to ſpeak one word more of the Second Sight,
or
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 319

or if he could not hold his tongue, to provide


himſelf another Mafter ; telling him he was
an unhappy Fellow who ftudied to abuſe Cre-
dulous People with falfe Predictions . There
was no more faid on this Subject until the next
day, that the Boy of whom the Seer spoke
came in, having his face all cover'd with blood,
which happen'd by his falling on a heap of
Stones. This Account was given me by the
Miniſter, and others of his Family.

DANIEL DOW, alias Black, an Inhabitant


of Bornskittag, was frequently troubled at the
fight ofa Man threatning to give him a Blow;
he knew no Man refembling this Viſion ; but
the Stature, Complection and Habit were fo
imprefs'd on his Mind, that he ſaid he could
diftinguiſh him from any other, if he ſhould
happen to ſee him. About a year after the Vi-
fion appear'd firſt to him, his Maſter ſent him
to Kyle Raes, above thirty Miles further South
Eaft, where he was no fooner arriv'd , than he
diftinguiſhed the Man who had fo often ap-
8
pear'd to him at home, and within a few
hours after, they happen'd to quarrel, and
came to blows, fo as one of them (I forgot
which) was wounded in the head . This was
told me by the Seers Maſter, and others who
live in the place ; The Man himſelf has his
Refidence there, and is one of the precifeft
Seers in the Ifles.

Siz
320 A Defcription of the

Sir Normand Mack Leod, and fome others


playing at Tables, at a Game called in Irish
Falmer-more, wherein there are three of a fide,
and each of them throw the Dice by turns,
there happen'd to be one difficult Point in the
difpofing of one of the Table men ; this oblig'd
the Gamefter to deliberate before he was to
change his Man, fince upon the difpofing of it,
the winning or lofing of the Game depended ;
at laſt the Butler who ftood behind adviſed the
Player where to place his Man, with which
he complied, and won the Game ; this being
thought extraordinary, and Sir Normand hear-
ing one whiſper him in the ear, ask'd who ad-
vis'd him fo skilfully ? he anfwer'd it was the
Butler, but this feem'd more ſtrange, for he
could not play at Tables. Upon this, Sir Nor-
mand ask'd him how long it was ſince he had
learnt to Play and the Fellow own'd that he
never play'd in his life, but that he faw the
Spirit Browny reaching his arm over the Players
head, and touched the Part with his finger, on
the Point where the Table man was to be
plac'd. This was told me by Sir Normand
and others who happen'd to be preſent at the
time.

DANIEL DOW above-named, foretold the

death of a young Woman in Minginis, within


lefs than twenty four hours before the time,
and accordingly he died fuddenly in the Fields,
tho'
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 321
tho' at the time of the Prediction fhe was in
perfect health ; but the Shroud appearing clofe
about her head, was the ground of his confi-
dence, that her death was at hand.

THE fame Daniel Dow foretold the death of

a Child in his Mafters arms, by feeing a ſpark


of fire fall on his left arm ; and this was like-
wife accompliſh'd foon after the Prediction.

SOME of the Inhabitants of Harries Sailing


round the Ifle of Skie,, with a deſign to go to
the oppofite main Land , were ftrangely fur-
priz'd with an Apparition of two Men hanging
down by the Ropes that fecur'd the Maft, but
could not conjecture what it meant. They
purſued their Voyage, but the Wind turn'd
contrary, and fo forc'd them into Broadford in
the fle of Skie, where they found Sir Donald
Mack Donald keeping a Sheriffs Court, and two
Criminals receiving Sentence of death there ,
the Ropes andMaft of that very Boat were
made uſe of to hang thoſe Criminals. This
was told me by ſeveral, who had this Inſtance
from the Boats Crew .

SEVERAL Perſons living in a certain Fa-


mily, told me that they had frequently feen
two Men ftanding 19 at a young Gentlewomans
left hand, who was their Masters Daughter ;
they told the Mens Names, and being her
Equals , it was not doubted but ſhe would be
X Married
322 ADeſcription of the

Married to one of them ; and perhaps to the


other, after the death of the firft. Some time
after a third Man appear'd, and he feem'd al-
ways to ſtand neareſt to her of the three, but
the Seers did not know him, tho' they could
deſcribe him exactly. And within ſome Months
after, this Man who was feen laft, did actually
come to the Houſe , and fulfilled the Deſcrip-
tion given of him by thoſe who never faw him
but in a Vifion, and he married the Woman
fhortly after. They live in the Ifle of Skie,
both they and others confirmed the truth of
this Inftance when I faw them.

MACK LEODS Porter paffing by a Galley


that lay in the Dock, faw her filled with Men,
A
having a Corps, and near to it he ſaw feveral
of Mick Leod's Relations ; this did in a man-
ner periwade him that his Maſter was to die
foon after, and that he was to be the Corps
which was to be tranſported in the Galley.
Some Months after the Vifion " was ſeen,
Mack Lead with feveral of his Relations and
others went to the Ifle of Mull, where fome
days after Mack Lean of Torlosk happen'd to
die, and his Corps was transported in the
Galley to his Burial Place , and Mack Leod's
Relations were on board to attend the Funeral,
while Mack Leod ftaid afhore, and went along
with the Corps, after their Landing.

Mr.
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 323

Mr. Dougal Mack Pherfon, Miniſter of Saint


Maries on the Weft fide of Skie, having his
Servants in the Kiln drying Corn , the Kiln
happen'd to take fire, but was foon extinguiſh'd .
And within a few Months after, one of the
Minifters Servants told him that the Kiln
would be on fire again fhortly ; at which he
grew very angry with his Man, threatning to
beat him if he fhould prefume to Prophefie
miſchief by that lying way of the Second Sight.
Notwithstanding this, the Man afferted pofi-
tively and with great affurance that the Kiln
would certainly take fire, let them ufe all the
precautions they could. Upon this, Mr. Mack
Pherfon had the Curiofity to enquire of his
Man if he could guefs within what space of
time the Kiln would take fire ? he told him
before Hallowtide. Upon which, Mr. Mack

Pherfon call'd for the Key of the Kiln, and told


his Man that he would take care of the Kiln
until the limited day was expir'd, for none
fhall enter it fooner, and by this Means I fhall
make the Devil if he is the Author of fuch
Lies, and you both Liars. For this end he
kept the key of the Kiln in his Prefs until the
time was over, and then deliver'd the key to
the Servants , concluding his Man to be a Fool
and a Cheat. Then the Servants went to dry
Corn in the Kiln, and were charg'd to have a
ſpecial care of the fire, yet in a little time after
the Kiln took fire, and it was all in a flame,
X 2 accord-
324 A Deſcription of the
according to the Prediction, tho' the Man
miſtook the time. He told his Maſter, that
within a few moments after the fire of the
- Kiln had been firſt extinguiſhed, he faw it all
in a flame again ; and this appearing to him in
the day time, it would come to paſs the
fooner.

John Mack Normand, and Daniel Mack Ewin,


Travelling along the Road, two Miles to the
North of Snifort Church , faw a body of Men
coming from the North, as if they had a
Corps with ' em to be buried in Snifort ; this
determin'd them to advance towards the River,
which was then a little before them , and ha
ving waited at the Ford, thinking to meet
those that they expected with the Funeral,
were altogether difappointed ; for after taking
a view ofthe ground all round them, they dif-
cover'd that it was only a Vifion. This was
very furprizing to them both, for they never
faw any thing by way of the Second Sight be-
fore or after that time. This they told their
Neighbours when they came home, and it
happen'd that about two or three Weeks after
a Corps came along that Road, from ano-
ther Pariſh, from which few or none are
brought to Snifort, except Perſons of diftin-
&tion ;
fo that this Vifion was exactly accom-
plifhed .

A
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 325
A Gentleman who is a Native of Skie, did
when a Boy, diſoblige a Seer in the Ifle of Rafay,
and upbraid him for his uglineſs , as being black
by Name, and Nature. At laft the Seer told
him very angrily, my Child , if I am Black ,
you'll be Red e're long. The Maſter of the
Family chid him for this, and bid him give
over his Foolish Predictions, fince no body
believ❜d them ; but next Morning the Boy be-
ing at Play near the Houfes, fell on a ftone,
and wounded himfelfin the Forehead, fo deep,
that to this day there's a hollow Scar in that
part of it.

JAMES BEATON Surgeon, in the Ifle of


North Lift, told me that being in the Isle of
Mull, a Seer told him confidently that he was
hortly to have a bloody Forehead, but he
difregarded it, and call'd the Seer a Fool.
However this James being called by fome of
the Mackleans to go along with them to at-
tack a Veſſel belonging to the Earl of Argyle,
who was then coming to poffefs Mull by force,
they attak'd the Veffel, and one of the Mack-
Leans being Wounded, the faid James while
dreffing the Wound, happen'd to rub his
Forehead, and then fome of his Patients blood
ftuck to his face, which accomplish'd the Vi
fion.
MY Lord Viſcount Tarbat, one of Her Ma-
jefties Secretaries of State in Scotland,Travelling
in the Shire ofRefs, in the North of Scotland ,came
X 3 into
326 A Defcription of the

into a Houſe and fat down in an Arm'd Chair,


ane of his Retinue who had the faculty of feeing
the Second Sight, fpoke to fome of my Lord's
Company, defiring them to perfwade him to
leave the Houfe, for faid he, there is a great
misfortune will attend fome body in it, and
that within a few Hours.This was told my Lord,
but he did not regard it ; the Seer did foon af-
ter renew his Intreaty, with much eagerness,
begging that my Lord might remove out of
that unhappy Chair, but had no other anſwer
than to be expofed for a Fool. Some Hours
after my Lord remov'd, and purſued his Jour-
ney, but was not gone many Hours vvhen a
Trooper riding upon Ice, near the Houſe
vvhence my Lord remov'd, fell and broke his
Thigh, and being aftervvards brought into that
Houſe, vvas laid in the Armed Chair, vvhere
his Wound vvas drefs'd, vvhich accomplished
the Vifion. I heard this Inftance from feveral
Hands, and had it fince confirmed by my
Lord himself.

A Man in the Parish of St. Maries, in the


Barrony of Troterness in Skie, called Lachlin,
lay fick for the ſpace of fome Months, decaying
daily, in fo much that all his Relations and ac-
quaintance defpaired of his recovery : One of
the Parishioners called Archibald Mack Donald,
being reputed famous for his Skill in foretelling
things to come, by the Second Sight, afferted
poffitively that the Sick Man would never die
in
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 327

in the Houſe where he then lay ; this being


thought very improbable, all the Neighbours
condemn'd Archibald as a foolish Prophet, up-
on which, he paffionately affirmed, that if ever
that Sick Man dies in the Houſe where he now
1
lies, I fhall from henceforth renounce my part
of Heaven : Adding withal the Sick Man was
to be carried alive out ofthe Houſe in which he

then lay, but that he would never return to it


a live, and then he nam'd the Perfons that should
carry out the Sick Man alive. The Man having
lived fome Weeks longer than his Friends ima-
gin'd, and proving uneafie, and troubleſome to
all the Family, they confidered that Archibald
had reafon for his peremptory affertion, and
therefore they refolved to carry him to a Houſe
joyning to that in which he then lay, but the
Poor Man would by no means give his confent
to be removed from a Place where he believed
he fhould never die ; fo much did he rely on
the words of Archibald, of whofe Skill he had
ſeen many demonſtrations. But at laft his
Friends being fatigu'd day and night with the
Sick Man's uneafinefs, they carried him againſt
his Inclination, to another little Houfe , which
was only feperated by an Entry from that in
which he lay, and their Feet were fcarce withio
the Threshold, when the tick Man gave up the
Ghoft ; and it was remarkable that the two
Neighbours, which Archibald named would
carry him out, were actually the Perfons that
did fo, At the time of the Prediction, Archibald
X 4 law
1
328 A Deſcription of the

faw him carried out as above, and when he was


within the Door of the other Houfe, he faw
him all white, and the Shroud being about him,
occafioned his confidence as above men-
tion'd ; this is matter of fact, which Mr. Daniel
Nicolson Minifter of the Parish, and a confide-
rable Number of the Parishioners, are able to
vouch for, and ready to atteft, if occafion re-
quites.

THE fame Archibald Macdonald, happen'd


to be in the Village Knockow one Night, and
before Supper, told the Family that he had juſt
then feen the ſtrangeſt thing he ever faw in his
Life ; to wit, a Man with an ugly long Cap,
always fhaking his Head , but that the ſtrangeſt
ofall, was a little kind of a Harp which he
had, with four Strings only, and that it had
two Harts Horns fixed in the Front of it ; all
that heard this odd Vifion fell a laughing at
Archibald, telling him that he was dreaming,
or had not his Wits about him, fince he preten-
ded to fee a thing that had no being, and was
not ſo much as heard of in any part of the
World. All this could not alter Archibalds Opi-
nion , who told them that they muſt excuſe him,if
he laugh'd at them after the accompliſhment of
the Vifion. Archibald return'd to his own Houſe,

and within three or four days after, a Man


with theCap Harp,&c.came to theHouſe, andthe
Harp, String, Horns, and Cap, anſwered the
Deſcription ofthem at first view, he shook his
Head
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 329
Head when he plai'd , for he had two Bells fix-
ed to his Cap ; this Harper was a Poor Man ,
and made himſelf a Buffoon for his Bread, and
was never before feen in thofe parts, for at the
time of the Prediction , he was in the Ifle of
Barray; which is above twenty Leagues diftant
from that part of Skie. This Story is vouched
by Mr. Daniel Martin, and all his Family, and
fuch as were then preſent, and live in the Vil-
lage where this happen'd.

Mr. Daniel Nicolson Minifter of St. Maries


in Skie,the Pariſh in which Archibald Macdonald
liv'd, told me that one Sunday after Sermon at
the Chappel Uge, he took occafion to enquire
of Archibald, if he ſtill retain'd that unhappy
faculty of ſeeingthe Second Sight,and he wished
him to lay it aſide, if poffible, for faid he, it is
no true Character of a Good Man. Archibald
was highly difpleas'd, and answered, That he
hop'd he was no more unhappy than his Neigh-
bours, for feeing what they could not perceive;
adding,I had,ſays he,as ferious Thoughts as my
Neighbours, in time of hearing a Sermon to day,
and even then I faw a Corps laid on the Ground
cloſe to the Pulpit, and I affure you it will be
accompliſhed ſhortly, for it was in the day time.
Mr. Nicolson and feveral Parishioners then pre-
fent, endeavoured to difwade Archibald from
this Difcourfe ; but he ftill afferted that it would
quickly come to país,and that all his other Pre-
dictions of this kind had ever been accompliſhed.
There
330 A Defcription of the
There was none in the Pariſhthen Sick, and few
are buried at that little Chappel, nay fometimes
not oneinaYear is buried there.Yet whenMr.Ni-

colfon return'd to preach in the faid Chappel,two


or three Weeks after, he found one buried in
the very fpot, nam'd by Archibald ; this Story
is vouched by Mr. Nicolson, and feveral of the
Parishioners ſtill living.

Mr. Daniel Nicolson above mentioned, being


a Widower at the age of 44, this Archibald
faw in a Viſion, a Young Gentlewoman, in a
good Dress, frequently ſtanding at Mr. Nicol-
fon's right hand, and this he often told the Pa-
rifaioners pofitively ; and gave an account of
her Complection, Stature, Habit, and that ſhe
would in time be Mr. Nicolfon's Wife ; this be
ing told the Minifter by feveral of' em, he de-
fired them to have no regard to what that foo-
liſh Dreamer had faid , for faid he, it is twenty
to one if ever I marry again. Archibaldhappe
ned to fee Mr. Nicolfon foon after this flighting
Expreffion , however he perfifted ſtill in his O-
pinion, and faid confidently that Mr. Nicolfon
would certainly marry, and that the Woman
would in all points make up the Character he
gave of her, for be faw her as often as he faw
Mr. Nicolfen. This Story was told me above a
Year before the accompliſhment of it, and Mr.
Nicolfon fome two or three Years after Archi-
hald's Prediction , went to a Synod in Boot,
where he had the first opportunity ofſeeing
onc
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 331
one Mrs. Morifon, and from that Moment fan-
cied her, and afterwards married her ; ſhe was no
fooner ſeen inthe life of Skie, than the Natives
who had never feen her before, were fatisfied

that he did compleatly anſwer the Character


given of her, &c. by Archibald.

ONE who had been accuſtomed to fee the


Second Sight,in the Ifle of Egg, which lies about
three or four Leagues to the South Weſt part
of the Isle of Ske, told his Neighbours that he
had frequently feen, an Apparition ofa Manin a
Red Coat lin'd withBlue,and having on his Head
a ftrange fort ofBlue Cap,with a very high Cock
on the fore part of it, and that the Man who
there appeared, was kiffing a comely Maid,in the
Village where the Seer dwelt ; and therefore de-
clar'd that a Man in ſuch a dreſs would certainly
debauch or marryfuch a Young Woman ; this
unuſual Viſion did much expofe the Seer, for
all the Inhabitants treated him as a Fool, tho'
he had on ſeveral other occafions foretold
things that afterwards were accomplished ,
this they thought one of the moſt unlikelieft
things to be accomplished, that could have en-
tred into any Mans Head ; this Story was then
difcours'd of in the Ifle of Skte, and all that
heard at laugh'd at it, it being a rarity to fee
any Forreigner in Egg, andthe Young Woman
had no Thoughts of going any where elſe ;
this Story was told meat Edinburgh, by Nor-
mand Mac Leod of Graban, in September 1688,
he
332 A Defcription of the

he being juſt then come from the Iſle of Skie ;


and there were preſent the Laird of Mac Leod,
and Mr. Alexander Mac Leod Advocate, and
others.

ABOUT a Year and a half after the late Re-


volution, Major Ferguson, now Colonel of
one of her Majefties Regiments of Foot, was
then fent by the Government with fix hundred
Men, and fome Friggots to reduce the Iſlanders
that had appeared for K, J. and perhaps the
fmall Ife of Egg, had never been regarded tho'
fome ofthe Inhabitants had been at the Battle
of Kelicranky, but by a meer Accident, which
determin'd Major Ferguson to go to the Ifle of
Egg, which was this. A Boats Crew of the Ifle
ofEgg,happen'd to be in thelfle of Skże,and kill'd
one of Major Ferguſons Soldiers there ; upon
Notice ofwhich, the Major directed his Courſe
to the Ifle of Egg, where he was fufficiently re-
1
veng'd ofthe Natives ; and at the fame time, the
Maid abovementioned being very handfome,was
then forcibly carried on Board one of theVeffels,
by fome ofthe Soldiers where fhe was kept above
twenty four Hours, and ravifh'd, and bruitiſhly
rob'd at the fame time ofher fine Head of Hair ;
the is fince married in the Ifle, and in Good Repu-
tation ; her Misfortune being pitied and not re-
kon'd her Crime.

Sr. Normand Mack Leod, who has his refi-


dence in the Ifle of Bernera, vvhich lyes be-
ryveen the Ifle of N. Uift and Harries, vvent to
the
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 333
the Ifle of Skie about Buſineſs, without ap-
pointing any time for his return ; his Servants
in his abfence, being all together in the large
Hall at Night, one of them who had been
accuſtomed to fee the Second Sight , told the
reft they must remove, for they would have
abundance of other Company in the Hall that
Night. One of his Fellow Servants anſwer'd
that there was very little appearance of that,
and if he had ſeen any Vifion of Company, it
was not like to be accomplish'd this Night :
But the Seer infifted upon it that it was ; they
continued to argue the improbability of it, be-
cauſe of the darkneſs of the Night, and the
danger of coming through the Rocks that lie
round the Ifle ; but within an hour after, one
of Sir Normands Men came to the Houfe, bid-
ding them provide Lights, &c. for his Mafter
had newly Landed, and thus the Prediction
was immediately accompliſhed.

Sir Normand hearing of it, call'd for the


Seer, and examin'd him about it ; he anſwer'd ,
that he had ſeen the Spirit call'd Browny in
Humane Shape, come feveral times, and make
a fhew of carrying an old Woman that fat by
the fire to the door , and at laſt ſeem'd to carry
her out by neck and heels, which made him
laugh heartily, and gave occafion to the reſt
to conclude he was mad to laugh fo without
any reaſon. This Inftance was told me by Sir
Normand himself.
FOUR
A Deſcription of the
334

FOUR Men from the Isle of Skie and Har-


ries, having gone to Barbadoes, ftay'd there
for fourteen years; and tho' they had wont to
fee the Second Sight in their Native Countrey,
they never faw it in Barbadoes, but upon their
return to England, the first Night after their
Landing they faw the Second Sight, as was told
me by feveral of their Acquaintance.

JOHN MORISON who lives in Bernera of


Harries, wears the Plant call'd Fuga Demonum
few'd in the neck of his Coat, to prevent hiş
feeing of Visions, and fays he never ſaw any
fince he first carried that Plant about him. He
fuffer'd me to feel the Plant in the neck of his

Coat, but would by no means let me open the


Seam, tho' I offer'd him a Reward to let me
do it.

A Spirit by the Countrey People call'd


Browny, was frequently feen in all the moſt
Confiderable Families in the Ifles and North of
Scotland, in the fhape of a tall Man , but with-
in theſe twenty or thirty years paft , he is feen
but rarely.

THERE were Spirits alfo that appear'd in


the Shape of Women, Horfes, Swine, Cats,
and fome like fiery Balls, which would follow
Men in the Fields ; but there has been but few
Inftances of thefe for forty years paft.
THESE
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 335

THESE Spirits us'd alfo to form Sounds in


the Air, refembling thoſe of a Harp, Pipe,
Crowing of a Cock, and of theT grinding of
Querns ; and fometimes they have heard
Voices in theAir by Night, finging Irish Songs ;
the words of which Songs fome of my Ac-
quaintance ſtill retain. One of 'em reſembled
the Voice of a Woman who had died fome
time before, and the Song related to her State
in the other World. Theſe Accounts I had
from Perfons of as great Integrity as any are in
the World.

A Brief
336 A Defcription of the

A Brief Account of the Advantages the fles


afford by Sea and Land, and particularly
for a Fishing Trade.

'HE North Weſt Ifles are of all other


THE moſt capable of Improvement by Sea
and Land ; yet by reaſon of their diſtance from
Trading Towns, and becauſe of their Language
which is Irish, the Inhabitants have never had
any opportunity to Trade at Home or Abroad,
or to acquire Mechanical Arts, and other Sci-
ences, fo that they are ftill left to act by the
force of their Natural Genius, and what they
could learn by obfervation. They have not
yet arriv'd to a competent knowledge in Agri-
culture, for which caufe many Tracts of rich
Ground lie neglected, or at leaſt but meanly
improv❜d, in proportion to what they might
be. This is the more to be regreetd , becauſe
the People are as capable to acquire Arts or
Sciences as any other in Europe. If two or
more Perfons skill'd in Agriculture were fent
from the Low-lands, to each Pariſh in the Ifles,
they would foon enable the Natives to furniſh
themſelves with fuch plenty of Corn, as would
maintain all their Poor and Idle People ; many
of which, for want of Subfiftence at home,
are forc'd to feek their Livelihood in Foreign
Countries, to the great lofs as well as difho-
nour
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 337
nour ofthe Nation. This would enable them .

alfo to Furniſh the oppofite barren Parts of the


Continent with Bread ; and fo much the more
that in plentiful years they afford them good
quantities of Corn in this Infant State of their
Agriculture. They have many large parcels of
Ground never yet Manur'd , which if Cultiva
ted, would maintain double the number of the

preſent Inhabitants , and increaſe and preſerve


their Cattle ; many of which for want of Hay
or Straw, die in the Winter, and Spring ; fo

that I have known particular Perſons loſe above


one hundred Cows at a time, meerly by want
of Fodder.

THIS is fo much the more inexcufable, be-


cauſe the ground in the Weſtern Ifles is natu-
rally richer in ſeveral reſpects than in many
other parts of the Continent, as appears from
feveral Inftances, particularly in Skie, and the
oppofite Weſtern Ifles, in which there are many
Valleys, &c. capable of good improvement,
and of which divers Experiments have been al-
ready made ; and befides moſt of thofe Places
have the convenience of Freſh-Water Lakes and
Rivers, as well as ofthe Sea near at hand, to
furnish the Inhabitants with Fifh of many forts,
and Alga Marina for Manuring the Ground .

IN many Places the Soil is proper for Wheat,


and that their Grafs is good, is evident from
the great product of their Cattle ; fo that if
Y the
ion
338 A Deſcript of the

the Natives were taught and encouraged to


take pains to improve their Corn and Hay, to
Plant, Inclofe and Manure their Ground, drain
Lakes , Sow Wheat and Peafe, and Plant Or
chards, and Kitchin-Gardens, &c. they might
have as great plenty of all things for the fufte-
nance of Mankind, as any other People in
Europe.

I have known a hundred Families of four or

five Perfons apiece at leaſt maintain'd there


upon little Farms, for which they paid not
above five fhillings Sterl. one Sheep, and
fome Pecks of Corn per Ann. each ; which
is enough to fhew that by a better Improve-
ment that Country would maintain many more
Inhabitants than live now in the Ifles.

IF any Man be difpos'd to live a folitary


retir❜d Life , and to withdraw from the noiſe of
the World, he may have a Place of retreat
there in a fmall Ifland, or in the corner of a
large one, where he may enjoy himſelf, and
live at a very cheap rate.

IF any Family reduc'd to low Circumſtances,


had a mind to retire to any of theſe Ifles, there
is no part of the known World where they
may have the products ofSea andLand cheaper,
live more fecurely, or among a more tractable
and mild People. And that the Countrey in
general
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland , &c. 339

general is Healthful, appears from the good


ftate of health enjoy'd by the Inhabitants.

I fhall not offer to affert that there are Mines


of Gold or Silver in the Weſtern Ifles, from
any reſemblance they may bear to other Parts
that afford Mines, but the Natives affirm that
Gold Duft has been found at Griminis on the
Weſtern Coaſt of the Ifle of North Uift, and
at Copveaul in Harries ; in which, as well as
in other parts of the Ifles, the Teeth of the
Sheep which feed there, are died yellow.

THERE is a good Lead Mine, having a


mixture of Silver in it, on the Weft end of the
Ifle of Ila, near Port Efcock ; and Buchanan
and others fay, that the Inle Lifmore affords
Lead, and Slait, and Strath, on the South
Weft of Skie, are in Stone, Ground, Grafs, &c.
exactly the fame with that part of Ila, where
there's a Lead Mine. And if fearch were made
in the Ifles and Hills of the oppofite Main,
it isnot improbable that fome good Mines
might be diſcover'd in fome of them.

I was told by a Gentleman of Lochaber,


that an English Man had found fome Gold
Duft in a Mountain near the River Lochy, but
could never find out the Place again after his
return from England. That there have been
Gold Mines in Scotland, is clear, from the Ma-
Y 2 nuſcripts
340 A Deſcription of the

nufcripts mention'd by Dr.Nicholſon, now Biſhop


of Carlisle, in his late Scots Hift. Library.

THE Situation of theſe Ifles for promoting


Trade in general, appears advantageous e-
nough, but more particularly for a Trade with
Denmark, Sweden, Hamburg, Holland, Britain,
and Ireland. France and Spain feem remote,
yet they don't exceed a Weeks Sailing, with a
favourable Wind.

THE General Opinion of the advantage


that might be reap'd from the Improvement of
the Fish Trade in thofe Ifles, prevail'd among

confidering People in former times to attempt


it.

THE first that I know of, was by King


Charles the First, in Conjunction with a Com
pany of Merchants, but it mifcarried, becauſe
of the Civil Wars, which unhappily broke out
at that time.

THE next Attempt was by King Charles


the Second, who alfo join'd with ſome Mer-
chants, and this fucceeded well for a time. I
am affured by fuch as faw the Fiſh catch'd
by that Company, that they were reputed
the beft in Europe of their kind, and accord-
ingly, gave a greater Price; but this Defign
was ruin'd thus. The King having occafion
for Money, was advis'd to withdraw that
which
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &.. 341

which was imploy'd in the Fishery ; at which


the Merchants being difpleas'd, and difagree-
ing likewiſe among themſelves, they alſo with-
drew their Money, and the Attempt has never
been renew'd fince that time.

THE Setling a Fiſhery in thofe Parts , would


prove of great advantage to the Government,
and be an effectual Means to advance the Re-
venue, by the Cuſtoms on Export, and Im-
port, &c.

IT would alſo be a Nurſery of Stout and


Able Seamen in a very fhort time, to ferve the
Government on all Occafions. The Inhabi
tants ofthe Ifles and oppofite Main Land being
very prolifick already, the Country would be-
yond all peradventure become very Populous in
a little time, if a Fishery were once fetled
among them. The Inhabitants are not con-
temptible for their Number at prefent, nor
are they to learn the uſe of the Oar, for all of
them are generally very dextrous at it ; fo
that thofe Places need not to be Planted with
a New Colony, but only Furnish'd with pro-
per Materials, and a few Expert Hands to join
with the Natives, to fet on foot and advance a
Fishery.

THE People Inhabiting the Weſtern ifles of


Scotland, may be about forty thoufand, and
many of 'em want Imployment ; this is a great
Y 3 Cucou-
342 A Defcription of the
encouragement both for feting up other Manu-
factories, and the fiſhing Trade among ' em ;
befides a greater Number of People may be ex-
pected,from the oppofiteContinent of the High-
Lands, and North ; which from a late Com-
putation, by one who had an eſtimate oftheir
Number, from feveral Minifters in the Coun-
try, are reckon'd to exceed the Number of Iſlan
ders,above Ten to One ; and tis too well known,
that many of ' em alfo want Imployment. The
Objection,that they ſpeak only Iriſh is nothing,
many of 'em underſtand English ; in all the Con-
fiderable Iflands , which are fufficient to direc
the reft in catching and cureing Fiſh and in a
little time the Youth would learn Engliſh.

THE Commodiouſneſs and fafety, ofthe nu-


merous Bays and Harbours in thofe Ifles, feem
as if Nature had defign'd them for promoting
Trade, they are likewiſe furniſhed with plenty
of Good Water, and Stones for building. The
oppofite Main Land affords Wood of divers
forts, for that uſe. They have abundance of
Turff and Peat for Fewel,and ofthis latter,there
is fuch plenty in many parts, as might furniſh
Salt Pans with Fire all the Year round. The
Sea forces its paffage in feveral fmall Channels,
through the Land, fo as it renders the defign,
more eafie and practicable.

THE Coaſt of each Ifle affords many thou-


fand load of Sea- ware, which if preferved , might
be
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 343

be fuccessfully us'd for making Glaſs, and like-


wife Kelp for Soap.

THE generality of the Bays afford all forts


of Shel-fish in great plenty, as Oyfters, Clams,
Muſcles, Lobſters, Cockles, &c. which might
be pickled, and exported in great Quantities.
There are great and fmall Whales of divers
kinds to be had round the Ifles, and on the
Shore of the oppofite Continent ; and are fre-
quently ſeen in Narrow Bays, where they may
be eaſily caught. The great Number of Rivers,
both in the Iles and oppofite Main Land, afford
abundance of Salmon , which if rightly mana-
ged, might turn to a Good Account.

THE Ifles afford likewife Great Quantities


of Black Cattle, which might ferve the Tra-
ders, both for Confumption, and Export.

STRATH in Skie, abounds with Good Mar-


ble, which may be had at an caſic rate, and
near the Sea.

THERE is good Wooll, in moſt of the


Ifles, and very cheap ; fome are at the charge
of carrying it on Horſe-back, about ſeventy or
eighty Miles, to the Shires of Murray, and
Aberdeen.

THERE are ſeveral of the Ifles, that afford a


great deal of very fine Clay;which if Improved,
Y 4 might
344 A Deſcription of the

might turn to a Good Account, for making


Earthen Ware of all forts.


THE moft Centrical and Convenient Places
for keeping Magazins of Cask, Salt, &c. are
thofe mentioned in the refpective Iſles ; as one
at Loch Maddy Ifles,in the Ifle of North Uift. A
fecond the Ifle Hermetra, on the Coaſt of the
Ile Harries ; a third in Iſland Glaſs, on the
Coaſt of Harries ; and a fourth in Stormvay, in
the Ifle of Lewis.

BUT for ferling a Magazin or Colony for


Trade in general, and Fishing in particular, the
Ifle of Skie is abfolutely the moſt Centrical,
both with regard to the Ifles and oppofite Main
Land ; and the moft proper Places in this Ifle,
are Inland ffa, in Lochfallart, and Lochuge,both
on the Weſt fide of Skie ; Loch-Portrie, and
Scowfar on the Eaft fide ; and Iſland Dierman
on the South fide ; thefe Places abound with
all forts of Fish, that are caught in thoſe Seas
and they are proper Places for a confiderable.
Number of Men to dwell in, and Convenient
for fetling Magazins in ' em,

THERE are many Bays and Harbours that


are Convenient for building Towns in feveral
of the other Ifles if Trade were fettled among

them ; and Cod and Ling, as well as Fiſh of


leffer ſize, are to be had generally, on the
Coaft
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 345

Coaſt of the Leffer as well as of " the larger


Ifles. I am not ignorant that Foreigners,
failing through the Weſtern Ifies, have been
tempted from the Sight of fo many Wild Hills,
that ſeem to be covered all over with Heath,
and fac'd with High Rocks, to imagine that the
Inhabitants, as well as the Places of their
refidence are barbarous, and to this Opinion,
their Habit, as well as their Language have
contributed . The like is fuppofed by many that
live in the South of Scotland, who know no
more ofthe Weſtern Ifles, than the Natives of
Italy ; but the Lion is not fo fierce as he is
painted, neither are the People defcrib'd here,
fo barbarous as the World Imagines : It is not
the Habit that makes a Monk , nor doth the
Garb in Faſhion qualifie him that wears it to
be vertuous ; the Inhabitants have Humanity,
and ufe Strangers Hofpitably, and Charitably.
I could bring feveral Inftances of Barbarity and
Theft committed by Stranger Seamen in the
Ifles, but there is not one Inftance of any in-
jury offered by the anders, to any Seamen or
Strangers. I had a particular Account of Sea-
men, who not many Years ago, ftole Cattle
and Sheep in feveral of the Ifles ; and when
they were found on board their Veffels, the In-
habitants were fatisfied to take their Value in
Money or Goods, without any further Refent
ment ; tho' many Seamen whofe Lives were
preferv'd by the Natives, have made ' em very
ungrateful returns. For the Humanity and
Hofpitable
tion
346 A Deſcrip of the
Hoſpitable Temper of the Iſlanders to Sailers -
I fhall only give two Inftances. Captain Jackſon
of White Haven, about fixteen Years ago,
was oblig❜d to leave his Ship, being Leacky in
the Bay, within Ifland Glafs, alias Scalpa, in
the Ifle of Harries, with two Men only to take
care of her, tho' loaded with Goods ; the Ship
was not within three Miles of a Houſe, and fe-
parated from the dwellingPlaces by Mountains,
yet when the Captain return'd about ten or
twelve Months after ; he found his Men and
the Veffel fafe.

CAPTAIN LOTCH loft the Dromedary of


London of fix hundred Tun burden, with all
her Rich Cargo from the Indies, of which he
might have faved a great deal, had he embrac'd
the affiſtance which the Natives offered him to

unlade her ; but the Captain's fhineſs, and fear


of being thought rude, hindred a Gentleman
on the Place to employ about feventy Hands,
which he had ready, to unlade her, and fo the
Cargo was loft. The Captain and his Men
were kindly entertain'd there, by Sir. Normand
Mac Leod,and tho' among other ValuableGoods,
they had fix Boxes of Gold duft, there was not
the leaſt thing taken from them, by the Inhabi
tants. There are fome Pedlars, from the Shire
of Murray, and other parts, who of late have
fixed their refidence in the Isle of Skie, and tra-
vel through the remoteſt Iſles without any Mo-
leſtation ; tho? fome of thofe Pedlars fpeak no
Irish.
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 347

Irish. Several Barks come yearly from Orkney


to the Weſtern Ifles, to Fish for Cod and Ling ;
and many from Enftruther in the Shire of Fife,
came formerly to Barray and other Ifles to fish,
before the Battle of Kilfyth, where moft of
rhem being cut off, that Trade was afterwards
neglected.

THE Magazines and fishing Boats , left by


Foreigners in the Ifles above mentioned, were
reckon'd ſecure enough, when one ofthe Natives
only was left in charge with them till the next
Seaſon, and fo they might be ftill. So that if a
Company of Strangers from any part fhould
fettle to Fish or Trade in theſe Ifles, there is
no Place of greater fecurity in any part of Eu-
rope, for the Proprietors are always ready to
affiſt and ſupport all Strangers within their re-
fpective Jurisdictions. A few Dutch Fami-
lies fettled in Stormvay, in the Ifle of Lewis,
after K. Charles the Second's Restoration, but
fome cunning Merchants, found means by the
Secretaries to prevail with the King to fend
them away, tho' they brought the Islanders a
great deal of Money for theProducts oftheir Sea
and Land Fowl ; and taught them fomething of
Art of Fifhing. Had they ſtayed the, Ilanders
muſt certainly have made confiderable Progreſs
in Trade by this time, for the fmall Idea of
Fishing they had from the Dutch, has had fo
much effect, as to make the People of the little
Village of Stornway, to excell all thofe of the
Neighbouring
S
348 A Deſcription of the

Neighbouring Ifles and Continent in the Fifth-


ing Trade, ever fince that time.

FOR the better Government of thoſe Ifles in


cafe of fetting up a Fishing Trade there, it
may perhaps be found neceffary to erect the Ifle
of Skie, Lewis, Harries, South and North
Uift, &c. into a Sherivalty , and to build a Royal
Borough in Skie as the Center, becauſe of
the Peoples great diſtance in remote Ifles,
from the head Borough of the Shire of In-
verness. This would feem much more necef-
fary here than thoſe of Boot, and Arran, that
lie much nearer to Dunbarton ; tho' they be
neceſſary enough in themſelves.

IT may likewiſe deſerve the Confideration


of the Government, Whether they ſhould not
make the Iſle of Skie a Free Port, becauſe of
the great Incouragement fuch Immunities give
to Trade, which always iflues in the welfare
of the Publick, and adds Strength and Reputa-
tion to the Government . Since theſe Ifles

are capable of the Improvements above-men-


tion'd, it is a great lofs to the Nation they
fhould be thus neglected. This is the general

Opinion of Foreigners, as well as of our own


Countrymen, who know them ; but I leave
the further Enquiry to fuch as fhall be dif-
pos'd to attempt a Trade there, with the Con-
currence of the Government. Scotland has
Men and Money enough to fet up a Fiſhery,
fo
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, . &c. 349
ſo that there ſeems to be nothing wanting to-
wards it but the Encouragement of thoſe in
Power, to excite the Inclination and Induſtry
of the People.

IF the Dutch in their Publick Edicts call


their Fishery a Golden Mine, and at the fame
time affirm that it yields them more profit than
the Indies do to Spain, we have very great
reaſon to begin to Work upon thoſe Rich
Mines, not only in the Ifles, but on all our
Coaſt in general . We have multitudes of
Hands to be employ'd at a very eaſie rate ;
we have a healthful Climate, and our Fish,
eſpecially the Herring, come to our Coaſt in
April, or May, and into the Bays in prodigious
Shoals in July, or Auguft. I have feen Com-
plaints from Loch Effort in Skie, that all the
Ships there were loaded , and that the Barrel of
Herring might be had there for Four Pence,
but there were no Buyers.

I have known the Herring Fiſhing to conti-


nue in fome Bays from September, 'till the end
of January ; and wherever they are, all other
Fifh follow ' em, and Whales and Seals in par-
ticular ; for the larger Fiſh of all kinds feed
upon Herring.

A Brief
350 A Deſcription of the

A Brief Defcription of the Isles of Orkney,


and Schetland, &c .

HE Ifles of Orkney lie to the North of


T Scotland, having the Main Caledonian
Ocean, which contains the Hebrides on the
Weft, and the German Ocean on the Eaft ; and
the Sea towards the North, feparates ' em from
the Ifles of Schetland. Pictland Firth on the

South, which is twelve Miles broad, reaches to


Dungisbie-Head, the moft Northern Point ofthe
Main Land of Scotland.

AUTHORS differ as to the Origine of the


Name, the English call it Orkney, from Erick,
one of the first PictishPrinces that poffefs'd ' em ;
and it is obferv'd, that Pit or Pight in the
Teutonik Language fignifies a Fighter. The
Irish call 'em Arkive, from the firſt Planter,
and Latine Authors call ' em Orcades. They
lie in the Northern Temperate Zone, and 13th
Climate ; the Longitude is between 22 De-
grees, and cleven Minutes, and Latitude 59
Degrees, 2 Minutes ; the Compafs varies here
eight Degrees ; the longeſt Day is about 18
hours. The Air is temperately cold, and the
Night fo clear, that in the middle of June one
may fee to read all Night long ; and the Days
in Winter are by confequence very fhort. Their
Winters
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 351
Winters here, are commonly more fubject to
Rain, than Snow, for the Sea-air diffolves the
latter ; the Winds are often very boiftrous in
this Country.

THE Sea Ebbs and Flows here as in other


parts, except in a few Sounds, and about fome
Promontories, which alter the Courſe of the
Tides, • and make ' em very impetuous.

THE Ifles of Orkney are reckon'd twenty fix


in Number ; the leffer Ifles called Holms, are
not Inhabited, but fit for Paſturage ; moſt of
their Names end in a or ey, that in the Teuto-
nick Language fignifies Water, with which
they are all furrounded.

THE Main Land called by the Ancients


Pomona, is about twenty four Miles long, and
in the middle of it on the South fide lies the
only Town in Orkney, called Kirkwall, which is
about three quarters of a Mile in length, the
Danes called it Cracoviaca. There has been
two fine Edifices in it, one of ' em called the
King's Palace, which is fuppos'd to have been
built by one of the Bishops of Orkney, becauſe
in the Wall there's a Bishop's Mitre, and Arms
engraven, and the Bishops anciently had their
Refidence in it.

THE Palace now called the Biſhops, was


Built by Patrick Stewart, Earl of Orkney,
Anno 1606. THERE
352 A Defcription of the

THERE is a Stately Church in this Town,


having a Steeple erected on four large Pillars
in the middle of it ; there are fourteen Pillars
on each fide the Church, it is called by the
Name of St. Magnus his Church, being Founded
as the Inhabitants fay, by Magnus King of
Norway, whom they believe to be Interr'd
there. The Seat of Juftice for theſe Ifles is
kept here ; the Steward, Sheriff, and Com-
miffary, do each of them keep their respective
Courts in this Place. It hath a Publick School
for Teaching of Grammar Learning, Endow'd
with a Competent Sallary.

THIS Town was Erected into a Royal Bo-


rough when the Danes poffefs'd it, and their
Charter was afterwards confirm'd to them by
King James the Third, Anno 1486. They
have from that Charter a Power to hold Bo-
rough- Courts, to Impriſon, to Arreſt, to make
By-Laws, to chooſe their own Magiftrates
yearly, to have two Weekly Markets, and
they have alfo Power of Life and Death, and
of fending Commiffioners to Parliament, and all
other Privileges Granted to Royal Boroughs.
This Charter was Dated at Edinburgh the laſt
Day of March, 1486, and it was fince Rati-
fied by King James the Fifth , and King Charles
the Second. The Town is Govern'd by a
Provoft, four Bayliffs, and a Common-
Council.
ON
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 353

ON the Weft end of the Main is the King's


Palace, formerly mention'd, Built by Robert
Stewart Earl of Orkney, about the year 1574.
Several Rooms in it have been curiously
Painted with Scripture Stories, as the Flood
of Noah, Chrift's Riding to Jerufalem, &c. and
each Figure has the Scripture by it, that it re-
ferrs to. Above the Arms within there is this
lofty Infcription, Sic fuit, eft, & erit. This
Ifland is Fruitful in Corn and Graſs, and has
feveral good Harbours ; one of ' em at Kirk-
Wall, a fecond at the Bay of Kairſton Village,
near the Weft end of the Ifle, well fécur'd
againſt Wind and Weather ; the third is at
Deer-Sound, and reckon'd a very good Har-
bour ; the fourth is at Grahamfhall, towards the
Eaft fide of the Ifle, but in Sailing to it from
the Eaft fide, Seamen would do well to Sail
betwixt Lambholm, and the Main Land , and
not between Lambholm and Burray, which is
fhallow.

ON the Eaſt of the Main Land lies the


fmall Ifle Copinha, Fruitful in Corn and Graſs ;
it is diftinguifh'd by Sea-faring- Men for its
Confpicuoufness at a great diftance. To the
North end of it lies the Holm, called the Horfe
ofCopinha. Over againſt Kerfton Bay, lie the
Ifles of Hoy and Waes, which make but one
Ifle, about twelve Miles in length, and Moun-
1 Ꮓ tainous.
354 A Deſcription of the

tainous. In this Ifland is the Hill of Hoy,


which is reckoned the higheſt in Orkney.

THE Me of South Konalfhaw lies to the Eaſt


ofWaes, it is five Miles in length, and Fruitful
in Corn ; Burray in the fouth end, is the Ferry
to Duncanfbay in Kathness. A little further to
the fouth lies Swinna Ifle, Remarkable only
for a part of Pightland- Firth lying to the Weſt
of it, called the Wells of Swinna. They are
two Whirl - pools in the Sea, which run about
with fuch violence, that any Veffel or Boat
coming within their reach, go always round
until they fink. Thefe Wells are dangerous
only when there is a dead Calm , for if a Boat
be under fail with any Wind, it is eafie to go
over them. If any Boat be forced into theſe
Wells by the violence of the Tide , the Boat-
Men caft a Barrel or an Qar into the Wells,
and while it is fwallowing it up, the Sea con-
tinues calm , and gives the Boat an opportunity
to pals over.

TO the North of the Main lies the Ifle of


Shapinfha, five Miles in length, and has a
Harbour at Elwick on the South. Further
to the North lie the Ifles of Stronfa, five Miles
in length, and Eda which is four Miles ;
Ronfa lies to the North Weft, and is fix Miles
long. The Ifle Sanda lies North, twelve Miles
in length, and is reckon'd the moſt Fruitful and
Beautiful of all the Orcades.
THE
Weſtern Islands ofScotland, &c. 355

THE Ifles of Orkney in general are Fruitful


in Corn and Cattle, and abound with ſtore of
Rabbets.

THE Sheep are very Fruitful here, many of


them have two, fome three, and others four
Lambs at a time ; they often die with a Diſeaſe
called the Sheep-dead, which is occafion'd by
little Animals about half an inch long, that are
engendred in their Liver.

THE Horſes are of a very ſmall ſize, but


hardy, and expos'd to the rigour of the Sea-
fon, during the Winter, and Spring ; the Grafs
being then ſcarce, they are fed with Sea-ware.

THE fields every where abound with va-


riety of Plants and Roots, and the latter are
generally very large, the Common people
drefs their Leather with the Roots of Tormen-
til inſtead of bark.

THE main Land is Furniſhed with abun-


dance of good Marl, which is us'd fucceſsfully
by the Husband Man for Mannuring the
Ground.

THE Inhabitants fay there are Mines of


Silver, Tinn and Lead in the Main Land,
South Ronalfha, Stronfa, Sanda and Hoy. Some
Veins of Marble are to be ſeen at Buckquoy,
Z z and
356 A Deſcription of the
and Swinna. There are no Trees in thefe Ifles,
except in Gardens, and thofe bear no Fruit.
Their common Fuel is Peat and Turff, of
which there is fuch Plenty, as to furnish a
Salt- pan with Fuel. A South- Eaft and North-
Weſt Moon cauſe High Water here.

THE Fin- Land Fisher-men have been -fre-


quently feen on the Coaſt of this Ifle, particu-
larly in the year 1682. The People on the
Coaſt, faw one of them in his little Boat, and
endeavour'd to take him, but could not come
at him , he retir'd fo fpeedily. They ſay the
Fiſh retire from the Coaſt, when they ſee theſe
Men come to it.

ONE of their Boats fent from Orkney to


Edinburgh, is to be ſeen in the Phyficians-Hall,
with the Oar he makes uſe of, and the Dart
with which he kills his Fiſh.

THERE is no Venomous Creature in this


Country. The Inhabitants fay there is a Snail
there, which has a bright Stone growing in it.
There is abundance of Shel-Fifh here, as Oy.
fters, Muſcles, Crabs, Cockles, &c. of this
latter they make much fine Lime ; the Rocks ·
on the hoar afford plenty of Sea ware, as
Alga-Marina, &c..

THE Sea abounds with variety of Fiſh, but


eſpecially Herring, which are much neglected,
fince
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 357
fince the Battle of Kilfyth, at which time, the
Fiſhermen from Fife, were almoſt all killed
there.

THERE are many fmall Whales round the


Coaſt of this Ifle, and the Amphibia here are
Otters and Seals.

THE chief Product of Orkney that is yearly


exported from thence; is Corn, Fish, Hides,
Tallow, Butter, Skins of Seals, Otter skins,
Lamb skins, Rabbet-skins, Stuffs , white Salt,
Wooll, Pens, Down , Feathers, Hams, & c.

SOME Sperma Ceti, and Ambergreeſe, as


alfo the Os Serpier are found on the ſhoar of
feveral of thoſe İfles.

THIS Country affords plenty of Sea and


Land Fowl, as Geefe, Duks, Solan Geefe,
Swans, Lyres, and Eagles , which are ſo ſtrong
as to carry away Children. There is alfo the
Cleck Gooſe, the fhels in which this Fowl is
faid to be produced, are found in feveral Ifles
fticking to Trees by the Bill ; of this kind I
have ſeen many, the Fowl was covered by a
Shell, and the Head ftuck to the Tree by the
Bill, but never faw any of them with life in
them upon the Tree, but the Natives told me
that they had obferv'd ' em to move with the
heat of the Sun.

Z3 THE
358 A Deſcription of the

THE Pids are believ'd to have been the first


Inhabitants of thefe Ifles, and there are Houfes
of a round form in feveral parts of the Country,
called by the name of Pitts Houſes ; and for
the fame Reafon the Firth is called Pightland,
or Pentland Firth. Our Hiftorians call theſe
Ifles the ancient Kingdom of the Pics ; Bu-
channan gives an account of one Belus King of
Orkney, who being defeated by King Ewen the
fecond of Scotland, became deſperate, and kil-
led himſelf.The Effigies of this Belus is en-
graven on a ſtone in the Church of Birſa on
the Main Land. Boethius makes mention of
another of their Kings called Bannus, and by
others Gethus, who being Vanquished by Clau-
dius Cefar, was by him afterwards, together
with his Wife and Family carried Captive to
Rome, and there led in Triumph, Anno Chrifti,
43.

THE Picts Poffeffed Orkney until the Reign


of Kenneth the ſecond of Scotland, who fubdued
the Country, and annexed it to his Crown ;
from that time Orkney was peaceably poffeffed
by the Scots, until about the year 1099 , that
Donald Bane intending to fecure the Kingdom
to himſelf, promiſed both thofe and the We-
ftern Ifles to Magnus King of Norway , upon
condition that he fhould fupport him with a
competent Force, which he perform'd ; and by
this means became Mafter of theſe Iſles, until
the
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c.´´ 359

the Reign of Alexander the Third , who by his


Valour expelled the Danes. The Kings of
Denmark did afterwards refign their Title for a
ſum of Money , and this Refignation was Ra-
tified under the Great Seal of Denmark, at the

Marriage of King James the fixth of Scotland,


with Anne Princess of Denmark.

ORKNET has been from time to time a Tí-


tic of Honour to feveral Perfons of great Qua-
lity ; Henry and William Sinclairs were called
Princes of Orkney, and Rothuel Hepburn was
made Duke of Orkney ; Lord George Hamilton
(Brother to the prefent Duke of Hamilton) was
by the late King William Created Earl of
Orkney. The Earl of Mortun had a Mortgage
of Orkney and Zetland from King Charles the
First, which was fince reduc'd by a Decree of
the Lords of Seffion, obtain'd at the inftance of
the King's Advocate against the Earl ; and this
Decret was afterward ratified by Act of Parlia-
ment, and the Earldom of Orkney, and Lord-
fhip of Zerland, have fince that time been
erected into a Stewartıy. The reafon on which
the Decret was founded, is faid to have been ,
that the Earls Deputy feiz'd upon fome Chefts
of Gold found in the Rich Amfterdam Ship
called the Carlmelan, that was loft in Zetland,
1664.

THERE are feveraj Gentlemen of Eftates

in Orkney, but the Queen is the Principal Po-


24 prietor
360 A Deſcription of the

prietor, and one half of the whole belonging to


the Crown, befides the late acceffion of the
Bishop's Rents, which is about 9c00 Merks
Scots per Ann. There is a yearly Roup of
Orkney Rents, and he that offers highest is
preferr'd to be the King's Steward for the time,
and as fuch , he is Principal Judge of the
Country. But this precarious Leafe is a Pub-
lick lofs to the Inhabitants, eſpecially the
Poorer fort, who complain that they would be
` allowed to pay Money for their Corn and Meal
in time of scarcity, but that the Stewards car-
ried it off to other Parts, and neglected the
intereft of the Country. The intereft of the
Crown fuffers likewife by this means, for much
ofthe Crown Lands lie wafte, whereas if there
were a conftant Steward, it might be much
better managed, both for the Crown, and the
Inhabitants.

THERE's a Tenure of Land in Orkney,


differing from any other in the Kingdom , and
this they call Udal Right, from Ulaus King of
Norway, who after taking poffeffion of thoſe
Iflands, gave a Right to the Inhabitants, on
condition of paying the third to himſelf; and
this Right the Inhabitants had fucceffively,
without any Charter. All the Lands of Orkney
are Udal Lands, Kings Lands, or Fewed
Lands.

THEY
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 361

THEY differ in their Meaſures from other


parts of Scotland, for they do not ufe the Peck
or Firlet, but weigh their Corns in Pismores,
or Pundlers ; the leaft quantity they call a
Merk, which is eighteen Ounces, and twenty
four make a Leifpound, or Setten, which is the
fame with the Danes, that a ftone weight is
with us .

The Ancient State of the Church of Orkney.

'HE Churches of Orkney and Zetland Iſles


ΤΗ were formerly under the Government of
a Biſhop ; the Cathedral Church was St. Magnus
in Kirkwall ; there are thirty one Churches,
and about one hundred Chappels in the Coun-
trey, and the whole make up about feventeen
Pariſhes.

THIS Diocefs had feveral great Dignities


and Privileges for a long time, but by the Suc-
ceffion and Change of many Maſters they were
leffened. Dr. Robert Keid their Bishop, made
an erection of feven Dignities, viz. a Provoft,
to whom under the Biſhop the government of
the Canons, &c. did belong ; he had alotted
to him the Prebendary of Holy Trinity, and the
Vicarage
362 A Deſcription of the
Vicarage of South Kanalshaw. 2. An Arch-
Deacon. 3. A Precentor, who had the Pre-
bendary of Ophir, and Vicaridge of Stennis.
4. A Chancellor, who was to be learn'd in
both Laws, to him was given the Prebendary
of St. Mary in Sanda, and the Vicaridge of
Sanda. 5. A Treafurer who was to keep the
Treaſure of the Church , and Sacred Veft-
ments, &c. he was Rector of St. Nicholas in
Stronfa. 6. A Sub-Dean, who was Parſon of
Hoy, & c. 7. A Sub-Chanter, who was bound
to play on the Organs each Lords Day, and
Feſtivals ; he was Prebendary of St. Colme.
He erected feven other Canonries, and Pre-
bends, to which Dignities he affign'd, befides
their Churches, the Rents of the Parfonages
of St. Colme in Waes, and Holy-Cross in Weftra,
as alfo the Vicaridges of the Parish Churches
of Sand, Wick, and Stromness. He erected be-
fides thefe, thirteen Chaplains , every one of
which was to have 24 Meils of Corn, and ten
Merks of Money for their yearly Sallary, be-
fides their daily diftributions , which were to
be rais'd from the Rents of the Vicaridge of
the Cathedral Church, and from the Founda-
tion of Thomas Bishop of Orkney, and the
12 Pounds mortified by K. James the 3d, and
James the 4th of Scotland. To theſe he added
a Sacrift, and fix Boys to bear Tapers. The
Charter of this Erection is dated at Kirkwall,
Octob. 28 , Anno 1544.

THIS
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 363

THIS was the State of the Church under


Popery. Some time after the Reformation,
Bifhop Law being made Biſhop of Orkney, and
the Earldom united to the Crown (by the For-
feiture and Death of Patrick Stewart Earl of
Orkney) he with the confent of his Chapter,
made a Contract with King James the Sixth,
in which they refign all their Ecclefiaftical
Lands to the Crown, and the King gives back
to the Biſhop ſeveral Lands in Orkney, as in
Hom, Orphir, &c. and his Majefty gave alſo
the Comiffariot of Orkney to the Biſhop and his
Succeffors, and then a competent number of
Perfons for a Chapter were agreed on. This
Contract was made Anno, 1614.

The
364 A Deſcription of the

The Ancient Monuments and Curiofities in

theſe Iſlands are as follow.

N the Ifle of Hoy, there's the Dwarfie-ftone


INbetween two Hills, it is about thirty four
Foot long, and above 16 Foot broad ; it is made
hollow byHumane Induſtry;it has a fmall ſquare
: Entry looking to the Eaft,about two Foot high,
and has a Stone proportionable at two Foot di-
ftance before the Entry ; at one of the ends with-
in this Stone there is cut out a Bed and Pillow,
capable of two Perſons to lie in : At the other
oppofite end, there is a void fpace cut out re-
fembling a Bed, and above both theſe there is
a large Hole, which is fuppos'd was a vent for
Smoak. The Common Tradition is, that a
Giant and his Wife made this their Place of re-
treat.

ABOUT a Mile to the Weft of the Main


Land at Skeal-houſe, there is in the top of high
Rocks, many Stones difpofed like a Street,
about a quarter of a Mile in length, and be-
tween twenty and thirty Foot broad. They .
differ in Figure and Magnitude, are of a Red
Colour, fome reſemble a Heart, ſome a Crown,
Leg, Shoe, Laft, Weavers Sickle, &c.

ON
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 365

On the Weſt and Eaft fide of Loch Stenuis,


on the Main Land , there is two Circles of
large Stone erected in a Ditch ; the larger
which is round on the N.Weft fide,is a hundred
Paces Diameter, and fome of the Stones are
twenty foot high, and above four in breadth ;
they are not all of a height, nor placed at an
equal diſtance, and many of them are fallen
down on the Ground.

ABOUT a little diſtance further, there is a


Semicircle of larger Stones than thoſe mentioned
above. There are two Green Mounts , at the
Eaft and Weft fide of the Circle, which are
fuppofed to be Artificial, and Fibuler of Silver
were found in ' em fome time ago, which one fide
reſembled a Horfe- fhoe, more than any thing
elfe.

THE Hills and Circles are believed to have


been Places defign'd to offer Sacrifice in time of
Pagan Idolatry ; and for this reafon the People
called them the Ancient Temples of the Gods,
as we may find by Boetheus in the Life of Mani-
us. Several of the Inhabitants have a Tradition,
that the Sun was worshiped in the larger, and
the Moon in the leffer Circle.

IN the Chappel ofClet, in the Iſle of Sanda,


there is a Grave of nineteen Foot in length ;
fome who had the Curiofity to open it, found
only
366 A Defcription of the

only a piece of a Man's Back-bone in it, bigger


than that of a Horſe. The Miniſter of the Place,
had the Curiofity to keep the Bone by him
for fome time. The Inhabitants have a Tradi
tion of a Giant there, whofe Statue was fuch,
that he could reach his Hand as high as the top
of the Chappel. There have been large Bones
found lately in Weftra, and one of the Natives
who died not long ago, was for his Stature di-
ftinguiſhed by the Title ofthe Micle or Great
Man of Waes.

THERE are erected Stones in divers parts,


both of the Main, and leffer Ifles, which are
believed to have been erected as Monuments of
fuch as diftinguiſhed themſelves in Battle.

THERE have been ſeveral ſtrange Inftances of


the effects of Thunder here, as that of burning
Kirkwel Steeple by Lightning, in the the Year
1670. Atftromnefs a Gentleman, had twelve
Kine,fix of which in a Stall,was fuddenly killed
by Thunder, and the other fix left alive ; and it
was remarkable that the Thunder did not kill
them all as they ſtood, but kill'd one, and miſt'd
another ; this happen'd in 1680 , and is atteſted
by the Minifter, and others of the Parish.

THERE is a ruinous Chappel in PapaWeftra,


called St. Tredwels, at the Door , of which
there's a heap of Stones ; which was the fuper-
ftition of the Common People, who have fuch
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, & : 367
a Veneration for this Chappel above any other,
that they never fail at their coming to it, to
throw a Stone as an offering before the Door ;
and this they reckon an indifpenfible Duty en-
join'd by their Anceſtors.

LADY KIRK in South Ronal-


fhaw, tho rui-
nous, and without a Roof,is fo much reverenc'd
by the Natives , that they chooſe rather to re-
pair this Old One, than to build a new Church
in a more Convenient Place , and at a Cheaper
rate : Such is the Power of Education, that
theſe Men cannot be affured of theſe fuperfluous
fancies, tranfmitted to them by their ignorant
Anceſtors.

WITHIN the Ancient Fabrick ofLady-Church,


there is a Stone of four Foot in length, and two
in breadth,tapering at both ends ; this Stone has
engraven on it the print of two Feet, concer-
ning which the Inhabitants have the following
Tradition ; that St. Magnus wanting a Boat to
carry him over Pickland Frith to the oppofite
Main Land of Cathness, made ufe of this Stone
inſtead of a Boat, and afterwards carried it to
this Church, where it continues ever fince.
But others have this more reaſonable Opinion ,
that it has been us'd in time of Popery ; for
Delinquents who were obliged to ftand bare foot
upon it by way of Pennance . 1 Several of the
Vulgar Inhabiting the leffer Ies , obferve the
Anniverſary oftheir respective Saints : There is
one
368 A Deſcription of the

one day in Harveſt on which the Vulgar abſtain


from Work, becauſe of an Ancient and foolish
Tradition, that if they do their Work, the
ridges will bleed .

THEY have a Charm for ftoping exceſſive


bleeding, either in Man or Beaſt, whether the
Cauſe be Internal or External ; which is per-
form'd by fending the Name ofthe Patient to
the Charmer, he adds fome more Words to it,
and after repeating thofe Words the Cure is per-
form'd, tho' the Charmer be feveral Miles di-
ftant from the Patient. They have likewife
other Charms which they ufe frequently at a
diſtance, and that alſo with fuccefs.

THE Inhabitants are well proportioned , and


feem to be more Sanguine than they are ; the
Poorer fort live much upon Fiſh of various
kinds, and fometimes without any Bread. The
Inhabitants in general are ſubject to the Scurvy,
imputed to the Fish and Salt Meat, which is
their daily Food ; yet feveral of the Inhabitants
arrive at a great Age ; a Woman in Evie brought
forth a Child in the 63 Year of her Age.

ONE living in Kerfton lately , was one


hundred and twelve Years Old, and went to
Sea at one hundred and ten. A Gentleman at
Stronfa, about four Years ago, had a Son at
110 Years Old. One William Muir in Weftra
lived 140 Years, and died about eighteen Years
ago .
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland , &c. 369

ago. The Inhabitants fpeak the English Tongue,


feveral of the Vulgar fpeak the Danish or Norfe
Language ; and many among them retain the
Ancient Danish Names.

THOSE of Deſtruction are Hofpitable and in


Obliging, the Vulgar are generally Civil and
Effable. Both of 'em wear the Habit in Fa-
fhion in the Low Lands, and ſome wear a Seal-
skin for Shoes, which they do not ſow, but
only tie them about their Feet with Strings, and
fometimes Thongs of Leather, they are gene-
rally able and ſtout Seamen.

THE Common People are very Laborious,


and undergo great Fatigues, and no ſmall ha-
zard in Fiſhing. The Ifles of Orkney were
formerly liable to frequent Incurfions by the
Norwegians, and thoſe inhabiting the weſtern Iſles
ofScotland. To prevent which each Village was
obliged to furniſh a large Boat well Man'd to op-
pofe the Enemy, and upon their landing all the
Inhabitants were to appear arm' , and Beacons
fet on the top of the higheſt Hills and Rocks,
to give a general warning on the fight of an ap-
proaching Enemy.

ABOUT the Year 1634 , Dr. Graham being


then Bishop of Orkney, a Young Boy called
William Garioch, had fome Acres of Land, and
А а fome
ion
370 A Defcript of the
fome Cattle, &c. left him by his Father de-
ceas'd, hebeing Young was kept by his Uncle,
who had a great defire to obtain the Lands, &c.
belonging to his Nephew, who being kept
fhort ſtole a fetten of Barley, which is about
twenty eight Pound Weight, from his Uncle ;
for which he purſued the Youth, who was then
eighteen Years of Age, before the Sheriff ;
the Theft being prov'd, the Young Man re-
ceived Sentence of Death, but going up the
Ladder to be hang'd, he prayed earneſtly that
God would inflict fome vifible Judgment on his
Uncle, who out of Covetoufnefs had procur'd
his Death. The Uncle happen'd'after this to
be walking in the Church-Yard of Kirkwall,
and as he ſtood upon the Young Man's Grave,
the Bishop's Dog run at him all of a sudden,
and tore out his Throat, and fo he became a
Monument of God's Wrath againſt fuch Co-
vetous Wretches : This Account was given to
Mr.Wallace Minifter there, by feveral that were
Witnefles of the Fact.

ZETLAND .
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 371

ZETLAN D.

ETLAND lies North Eaft from Ork .


Zy , between the 60 and 61 Degree of
ney,
Latitude ; the diftance between the Head of
Sanda, which is the moſt Northerly part of
Orkney , and Swinburgh-head the moſt Southerly
Point of Zetland is commonly reckon❜d to be
twenty or twenty one Leagues , the Tides run-
ning betwixt are always Impetuous, and Swel-
ling as well in a Calm as when a freſh Gale
blows, and the greateſt Danger is near the fair
Ifle, which lies nearer to Zetland than Orkney
by four Leagues.

THE largeſt Iſle of Zetland, by the Natives


called the main Land is fixty Miles in length
from South Weft to the North Eaft, and from
fixteen, to one Mile in breadth. Some call
thefe Ifles Hethland, others Hoghland,which in
the Norfe Tongue fignifies Highland, Zetland
in the fame Language fignifies Sealand.

THIS Ifle is for the most part Moffie and


more Cultivated on the fhore than in any other
part, it is Mountainous and covered with
Heath, which renders it fitter for Paſturage
than Tillage. The Inhabitants depend upon
Aa 2 the
372 A Deſcription of the
the Orkney Ifles for their Corn. The Ground
is generally fo Boggy that it makes riding Im-
practicable, and travelling on Foot not very
Pleaſant, there being ſeveral parts into which
People funk to the Endangering their Lives, of
which there have been feveral late Inftances.
About the Summer Solstice, they have ſo much
light all Night that they can fee to read by it:
The Sun fets between ten and eleven, and rifes
between one and two in the Morning, but then
the Day is fo much the fhorter, and the Night
longer in the Winter : This together with the
Violence of the Tides and Tempestuous Seas,
deprives the Inhabitants of all foreign Corref-
pondence from October till April, and often till
May, during which space they are altogether
Strangers to the reft of Mankind, of whom
they hear not the leaft News, a remarkable In-
flance ofthis happen'd after the late Revolution ,
they had no account of the Prince of Orange's
late landing in England, Coronation, &c
. until
a Fisherman happen'd to land in theſe fles in
May following, and he was not believed, but
indited for High Treafon, for fpreading fuch
News.

THE Air of this file is cold and piercing,


notwithſtanding which, many of the Inhabitants
arrive at a great Age. Of which there are feve-
ral remarkable Inftances, Buchannon in his Hift.
lib. 1. gives an Account of one Laurence who
lived
1 Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland , &c. 373
lived in his time, fome of whofe Offspring do
ftill live in the Parish of Waes, this Man after
he arrived at one hundred Years of Age Married
a Wife, went out a Fiſhing when he was one
hundred and forty Years Old, and upon his
return , died rather of Old Age, than of any
Distemper,

THE Inhabitants give an Account of one


Tairville,who arrived at the Age of one hundred
and eighty, and never drank any Malt Drink,
diftilled Waters, nor Wine. Theyfay that his
Son liv'd longer than him, and that his Grand-
children liv'd to a Good Age, and ſeldom or
never drank any ftronger Liquors than Milk ,
Water or Bland.

THE Diſeaſe that Afflicts the Inhabitants


here moſt is the Scurvy, which they fuppofe is
occafion'd by their eating too much Salt Fish :
There is a Diftemper here call'd Baſtard Scurvy,
which diſcovers its felf, by the falling of the
Hair from the Peoples Eyebrows, and the fall-
ing in of their Nofes, &c. and as foon as the
Symptoms appear, the Perfons are remov'd to
the Fields where little Houſes are built for them
on purpoſe, to prevent Infection. The Princi-
pal cauſe of this Diftemper is believed to be
want of Bread, and feeding on Fiſh, alone par-
ticularly the Liver, many poor Families are
fometimes without Bread, for three, four,
Aa 3 or
374 A Deſcription of the

or five Months together. They fay likewiſe


that their drinking of Bland which is their Uni-
verfal Liquor, and preferved for the Winter as
part oftheir Provifions, is another cauſe of this
Distemper. This Drink is made of Buttermilk
mix'd with Water, there be many of 'em who
never taſte Ale or Beer, for their scarcity of
Bread is fuch, that they can ſpare no Corn for
Drink, fo that they have no other than Bland,
but what they get from Foreign Veffels that re-
fort thither every Summer to Fiſh.

THE Ifles in general afford a great quantity


of Scurvy grafs, which us'd difcretely is found
to be a good Remedy againſt this Diſeaſe. The
Jaundice is commonly cured by drinking the
Powder of Shell-fnails among their Drink, in
in the ſpace of three or four days. They firſt
dry, then Pulverize the Snails, and it is obfer
vable that tho'
this Duft fhould be kept all the
Year round,and grow into Vermine,that it may
be dry'd again,and Pulveriz'd for that uſe.

THE Ifles afford abundance of Sea- fowl,


which ferve the Inhabitants for part of their
Food, during Summer and Harveſt, and the
• Down and Feathers bring ' em Great Gain.

THE feveral Tribes of Fowl here build and


hatch apart, and every Tribe keeps cloſe toge-
ther, as if it were by confent. Some of the
leffer
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 375

leffer Ifles are fo crowded with variety of Sea-


fowl, that they darken the Air when the flie in
great Numbers, after their coming, which is
commonly in February, they fit very cloſe to-
gether for fome time , till they recover the fa-
tigue oftheir long flight from their remote Quar-
ters ; and after they have hatched their Young,
and find they are able to flie, they go away to-
gether to fome other unknown Place.

THE People Inhabiting the leffer Ifles, have


abundance of Eggs and Fowl, which contribute
to maintain their Families during the Summer.

THE Common People are generally very


dextrous in climing the Rocks,in queft of thofe
Eggs and Fowl, but this exercife is attended
with very great danger, and fometimes proves
fatal to thoſe that venture too far.

THE most remarkable Experiment of this


fort, is at the Ifle called the Nofs of Braffah,
and is as follows. The Nafs being about fix-
teen Fathom diftant from the fide ofthe oppo-
fite Main. The higher and lower Rocks have
two Stakes faften'd in each of them, and to
theſe there are Ropes tied, upon the Ropes
there is an Engine hung which they called a
Cradle, and in this a Man makes his Way over
from the greater to the lefler Rocks , where he
makes a confiderable purchafe or Eggs and
Aa 4 Fowl,
376 A Deſcription of the
Fowl, but his return being by an aſcent , makes
it the more dangerous , tho' thofe on the great
Rock have a Rope tied to the Cradle, by
which they draw it and the Man fave over for
the moſt part.

THERE are fome Rocks here, computed to


be about three hundred Fathom high , and the
way of climbing them , is to tie a Rope about
a Mans middle, and let him down with a
Basket, in which he brings up his Eggs, and
Fowl. The Ifle of Fonla is the most dangerous
and fatal to the Climbers, for many of them

periſh in the attempt.

THE Crows are very numerous in Schet-


land, and differ in their colour from thoſe on
the main Land, for the head wings and tail of
thofe in Schetland are only black, and their
back breaſt and tail of a grey colour. When
black Crows are feen there at any time, the
Inhabitants fay it is a prefage ofapproaching
Famine.

THERE are fine Hawks in theſe Iſles, and


particularly thofe of Fair Ifle are reputed a-
mong the beſt that are to be had any where ;
they are obferv'd to go far for their Prey, and
particularly for Moor- Fowl, as far as the Ifles
of Orkney, which is about fixteen Leagues from
them .
THERE
Weſtern Iflands of Scotland, &c. 377

THERE are likewife many Eagles in and


about theſe Ifles, which are very deſtructive to
the Sheep and Lambs.

THIS Country produces little Horſes, com-


monly called Shelties, and they are very
fprightly, tho' the leaft of their kind to be feen
any where ; they are lower in ftature than
thofe of Orkney, and it is common for a Man
of ordinary ftrength to lift a Sheltie from the
ground, yet this little Creature is able to
carry double. The Black are eſteem'd to be
the moſt hardy, but the Pied ones feldom
prove fo good ; they live many times ' till
thirty years of age, and are fit for ſervice all
the while. Thefe Horfes are never brought

into a Houſe, but expos'd to the rigour of the


Seaſon all the year round, and when they have
no Grafs, feed upon Sea-ware, which is only
to be had at the Tide of Ebb.

THE Ifles of Zetland produce many Sheep,


which have two and three Lambs at a time ;
they would be much more numerous, did not
the Eagles deſtroy them ; they are likewife re-
duc'd to feed on Sea-ware, during the Froſt
and Snow.

The
378 A Deſcription of the

The Leffer Ifles of SCHETLAND are

as follow.

'HE Ifle Trondra, which lies oppoſite to


THRScalloway Town, on the Weſt 3 Miles
E
long, and two broad.

FURTHER to the North Eaft lies the Ifle

of Whalley, about three Miles in length, and


as many in breadth, the Rats are very nume-
rous here, and do abundance of mischief by
deſtroying the Corn.

AT fome further diſtance lie the ſmall Iſles


called Skerries, there is a Church in one of
them. Theſe Ifles and Rocks prove often Fa-
tal to Seamen, but advantageous to the Inha-
bitants, by the Wrecks and Goods that the
Wind and Tides drive afhoar, which often fup-
plies them with Fuel, of which they are altoge-
ther deftitute. It was here that the Carmelan
of Amfterdam was caft away, as bound for the
Eaft-Indies, Ann. 1664. among the Rich Cargo
fhe had feveral Chefts of Coin'd Gold, the
whole was valued at 3000000 Guilders,
of all the Crew four only were faved. The
Inhabitants ofthe fmall Ifles, among other ad-
vantages they had by this Wreck, had the
pleaſure
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 379

pleaſure of drinking liberally ofthe ſtrong drink


which was driven afhore in large Casks, for
the ſpace ofthree Weeks.

BETWEEN Braffa Sound, and the oppofite


Main, lies the Unicorn, a dangerous Rock,
viſible only at low Water ; it is fo called , ever
fince a Veffel of that Name periſhed upon it,
Commanded by William Kirkaldy of Gronge,
who was in eager purfuit of the Earl of Bothwell,
and very near him when his Ship ftruck.

ON the Eaſt lies the Ifle call'd Fifholm ; to


the North Eaft lies little Rue, and on the Weſt
mickle Rue ; the latter is eight Miles in length,
and two in breadth, and has a good Harbour.

NEAR to Efting lie the Iles of Vemantry,


which has feveral Harbours, Orney, little Papa,
Helifha, &c.

TO the North Weft ofthe Nefs lies St. Ni-


nian's Ifle, it has a Chappel and an Altar in it,
upon which, fome of the Inhabitants retain the
ancient fuperftitious Cuſtom of burning
Candle.

PAPA-STOUR is two Miles in length, it


excells any Ifle of its extent for all the Conve

niences of humane Life ; it has four good Har-


bours
380 A Deſcription of the
bours, one of which looks to the South, ano-
ther to the Weft, and two to the North.

THE Lyra-Skerries, fo called from the Fowl


of that Name that abound in them, lie near
this Iflo.

ABOUT fix Leagues Weft of the Main,


lies the Ifle Foula, about three Miles in length,
it has a Rock remarkable for its heighth, which
is feen from Orkney when the Weather is fair,
it hath an Harbour on one fide.

THE Ifle of Braſſa lies to the Eaft of Ting-


wal, it is five miles in length, and two in
breadth ; fome parts of the Coaft are arable
ground, and there are two Churches in it.

FURTHER to the Eaft lies the fmall Ifle


called the Nofs of Braffa .

THE Ifle of Burray is three Miles long, has


good Pafturage, and abundance of Fiſh on its
Coaſt ; it has a large Church and Steeple in it.
The Inhabitants fay that Mice do not live in

this Ifle when brought to it ; and that the
Earth of it being brought to any other part
where the Mice are, they will quickly aban-
don it.

HAVE-
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 381

HAVEROT-ISLE, which is a Mile and a


half in length, lies to the South Eaſt of
Burray.

THE Ifle of Tell is fixteen Miles long; and


from eight to one in breadth ; it lies North Eaſt
from the Main, there are three Churches and
ſeveral ſmall Chappels in it.

THE Iſle of Hakafhie is two Miles long,


Samphrey Ifle one Mile long, Biggai Ifle is a
Mile and a half in length, all three lie round
Round-Tell, and are reputed among the beſt of
the leffer Ifles:

THE Iſle of Fetlor lies to the North Eaft

of Tell, and is five Miles in length, and four


in breadth, it hath a Church, and ſome of the
Picts Houfes in it.

THE Inc Unit is eight Miles long, and is


the pleaſanteſt of the Schetland Iſles ; it has
three Churches, and as many Harbours ; it is
reckoned the moſt Northern of all the British
Dominions. The Inhabitants of the Ifle Vaila
fay, that no Cat will live in it, and if any Cat
be brought to it, they will rather venture to
Sea, than ſtay in the Ifle. They ſay, that a
Cat was feen upon the Ifle about fifty years ago,
but how it came there was unknown. They
obferv'd
A Deſcription of the
382
.
obferv'd about the fame time, how the Pro-
prietor was in great Torment, and as they
fuppofe by Witchcraft, of which they ſay he
then died. There is no account of any Cat to
have been ſeen in the Ifle ever fince that Gen-
tlemans death, except when they were carried
to it, for making the above-mentioned Expe-
riment.

THE Inhabitants fay, that if a Compass be


plac'd at the Houſe of Udſta, on the Weft fide
of the Ifle Fetlor, the Needle will be in perpe-
tual diſorder, without fixing to any one Pole ;
and that being tried afterwards in the top of
that Houfe, it had the fame effect. They add
further, that when a Veffel Sails near that
Houſe, the Needle of the Compaſs is diſorder'd
in the fame manner.

THERE is a yellow fort of Mettle lately


diſcover'd in the Ife of Ukia, but the Inhabi-
tants had not found a way to melt it, fo that
it is not yet turn'd to any account.

The
Weſtern Iſlands ofScotland, &c. 383

The Ancient Court of Justice.

N theſe Iſlands was held in a Holm in the


INParish of Tingwall, in the middle of the
Main Land. This Holm is an Ifland in the
middle of a Fresh water-Lake ; it is to this
day called the Law Ting, and the Pariſh in all
probability hath its Name from it. The En-
trance to this Holm is by fome Stones laid in
the water, and in the Holm there are four great
Stones, upon which fate the Judge, Clerk, and
other Officers of the Court. The Inhabitants
that had Law Suits, attended at fome diſtance
from the Holm on the other fide the Lake, and
when any of them was called by the Officer,
he entred by the ſtepping Stones, and being
difmiffed, he return'd the fame way. This was
the practice ofthe Danes.The Inhabitants have a
Tradition among ' em, that after one had receiv'd
Sentence of Death upon the Holm, he obtain'd
a Remiffion, provided he made his eſcape
through the crowd of People on the Lake fide,
and touch'd Tingwall Steeple before any could
lay hold on him. This Steeple in thoſe days
was an Afylum for Malefactors and Debtors to
flee into. The Inhabitants of this Ifle are all

Proteftants, they generally speak the English


Tongue, and many among them retain the
ancient
384 A Defcription of the

ancient Danish Language, eſpecially in the


more Northern Ifles. There are feveral who
fpeak English, Norfe and Dutch, the laſt of which
is acquired by their Converfe with the Hollan
ders, that Fiſh yearly in thoſe Iſles.

THE People are generally reputed difcreet,


and Charitable to Strangers, and thoſe of the
beſt Rank are faſhionable in their Apparel.

ZETLAND is much more populous now,

than it was thirty years ago, which is owing


to the Trade, and particularly that of their
Fiſhery, ſo much followed every year by the
Hollanders, Hamburgers , and others. The

increaſe of People at Lerwick is confiderable ;


for it had but three or four Families about
thirty years ago, and is fince increas'd to about
three hundred Families ; and it is obfervable
that few of their Fathers were Natives of Zet-
land, but came from feveral Parts of Scotland,
and eſpecially from the Northern and Eaſtern
Coaſts.

THE Fishery in Zetland is the Foundation


both of their Trade and Wealth, and tho' it be
of late become less than before, yet the Inha-
bitants by their induſtry and application make
a greater profit of it than formerly, when they
had them nearer the Coaft, both of the larger
and leffer Ifles ; but now the Grey Fiſh of the
largeſt
Weſtern Islands of Scotland, &c. 385

eft fize are not to be had in any quantity with-


out going further into the Ocean, the Filhcom-
monly brought by Strangers here, is Cod and
Ling ; the Inhabitants themſelves make only
uſe of the ſmaller Fifh and Herrings, which a-
bound on the Coaft of this Ifle in vaſt Shoals.

THE Fiſh call'd Tulk abounds on the Coaſt


of Braſſa , the time for Fiſhing is at the end
of May. This Fifh is as big as a Ling, of a
Brown and Yellow Colour, has a broad Tail,
it is better freſh than falted . They are com-
monly fold at fifteen or fixteen Shillings the
hundred.

THE Inhabitants obferve that the further


they go to the Northward, the Fish are of a
larger fize, and in greater Quantities. They
make great ſtore of Oyl, particularly of the
large Gray Fish by them called Seths, and the
Younger fort Sillucks, they fay that the Liver
of one Seth affords a Pint of Scots Meaſure, be-
ing about four of English Meaſure : The way
of making the Oyl, is firft by boyling the Li-
ver in a Pot half full of Water, and when it
boils the Oyl goes to the top and is skim'd off,
and put in Veffels for ufe. The Fiſhers ob-
ferve of late that the Livers of Fiſh are lefs in
fize than they have been formerly.

THE Hamburgers, Bremers,and others, come


to this Country about the middle of May, fet
Bb
up
386 A Deſcription of the
up Shops in feveral parts, and fell divers Com
modities, as Linnen, Muflin, and fuch things
as are moſt proper for the Inbabitants, but more
eſpecially, Beer, Brandy and Bread , all which
they barter for Fifh, Stockings, Mutton, Hens,
&c. and when the Inhabitants ask Money for
their Goods, they receive it immediately .

IN the Month of June, the Hollanders come


with their Fishing Buffes in great Numbers, up-
on the Coaft for Herring ; and when they come
into the found of Braffa, where the Herring are
commonly most plentiful and very near the
Shoar ; they difpofe their Nets, &c. in order,
but never begin till the twenty fourth of June,
for this is the time limited among themſelves ,
which is obferved as a Law, that none will ven-
ture to Transgrefs. This Fishing Trade is very
Beneficial to the Inhabitants, who have Provi-
fions and Neceffaries imported to their Doors ;
and Imployment for all their People, who by
their Fishing, and felling the various Products
ofthe Country, bring in a confiderable fum
of Money yearly. The Proprietors of the
Ground are confiderable Gainers alfo by letting
their Houfes, which ferve as Shops to the Sea-
men, during their refidence here.

THERE have been two thouſand Buſhes and


upwards Fishing in this Sound in one Summer,
but they are not always fo Numerous ; they
generally go away in Auguft or September.
THERE
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c. 387

THERE are two little Towns in the largeſt


of the Shetland Ifles, the moft Ancient of theſe
is Scalloway, it lies on the Weft fide of the Ifle,
which is the moſt Beautiful and Pleaſant part of
it. It hath no Trade, and but few Inhabitants ,
the whole being about ninety in Number . On
the South Eaft end of the Town , ftands the
Caftle of Scalloway, which is four Stories high,
it hath ſeveral Conveniences and ufeful Houſes
about it, and tis well furnished with Water.
Several Rooms have been curiouſly Painted ,tho'
the better part be now worn off. This Ancient
Houſe is almoft ruinous , there being no
care taken to repair it. It ferved as a Garifon
for the English Souldiers that were fent hither
by Cromwel. This Houfe was Built by Patrick
Stewart Earl of Orkney, Anno 1600. The Gate
hath the following Inſcription on it. Patricius
Orchadia & Zelandia Comes . And under-
neath the infcription . Cujus fundamen Saxum
eft Domus illa manebit ; Labilis è contra fi fit are-
na perit. That Houſe whofe Foundation is on a
Rock fhall ſtand ;but ifon the Sand it ſhall fall.

THE Inhabitants fay, that this Houfe was


Built upon the fandy Foundation of Oppreffion,
in which they ſay the Earl exceeded ;and for that
and other Crimes was executed .

THERE is a high Stone created between


Tingwal and Scalloway, the Inhabitants have a
Tradition
Bb 2
388 A Deſcription of the
Tradition that it was fet up as a Monument of
a Daniſh General, who was killed there by the
Ancient Inhabitants, in a Battle againſt the
Danes and Norvegians.

THE fecond and lateſt built Town is Ler-


wick, it ftands on that fide of the Sound
' where
the Fishing is ; the Ground on which it is
built is a hard Rock , one fide lies towards the
Sea, and the other is furrounded with a Mofs'
without any Arable Ground.

ON the North the Cittadel of Lerwick,


which was built in the Year 1665, in time of
the War with Holland ; but never compleated.
There is little more ofit now left than the Walls.
The Inhabitants about thirty Years ago, fiſhed
up three Iron Cannons out of a Ship that bad
been caft away near eighty Years before, and
being all over ruft, they made a great Fire of
"
Peats round them to get off the ruft, and the
fire having heated the Cannon , all the three
went off, to the great furprize of the Inhabi-
tants, who fay, they faw the Ball fall in the
middle of Braffa Sound, but none of ' em had
any damage by them.

THERE are many Pics Houſes in this Coun-


try, and feveral ofthem entire to this day, the
higheſt exceeds not twenty or thirty Foot in
height, and are about twelve Foot broad in the
middle
Weſtern Iſlands of Scotland, &c
. 389

middle, they taper towards both ends , the En-


try is lower than the Doors of Houſes com-
monly are now, the Windows are long and ve-
ry narrow, and the Stairs goes up between the
Walls. The Houſes were built for Watch Tow-
ers, to give notice of an approaching Enemy,
there is not one of them but what is in view of
fome other, ſo that a Fire being made in the
top of any one Houſe, the Signal was commu-
nicated to all the reft, in a few Moments.

THE Inhabitants fay, that theſe Houſes were


called Burghs, which in the Saxon Language
fignifies a Town or Caſtle fenc'd all round. The
Names of fortified Places in the weſtern Ifles,
are in ſeveral parts called Borg, and the Villages
in which the Forts ftand,are always with Borg.

THE Inhabitants of Orkney ſay, that ſeveral


Burying Places among them are called Burghs,
from the Saxon word Burying.

IT is generally acknowledged that the Pights


were Originally Germans, and particularly from
that part of it bordering upon the Baltick Sea.
They were called Phightian, that is Fighters.
The Romans called them Picti, ſome Writers
call them Pictavi, either from that Name of
Phightian, which they took to themſelves, or
from their Beauty, and accordingly Boethius in
his Character of them, joins both theſe toge-
ther.
390 A Deſcription of the

ther. Quod erant corporibus robuftiffimis candi-


difq ; and Verftegan fays the fame of them .

THE Romans called them Pidi, becauſe they


had their Shields painted of divers Colours.
Some think the Name came from Pichk, which
in the Ancient Scots Language fignifies Pitch,
that they colour'd their Faces with, to make
them terrible to their Enemies in Battle, and
other think the Name was taken from their
painted Habit.

THIS Ife makes part of the Shire of Orkney,


there are twelve Pariſhes in it, and a greater
Number of Churches and Chappels. Shetland
pays not above one third to the Crown of what
Orkney does.

THE Ground being for the moſt part Boggy


andMooriſh,is not ſo productive of Grain as the
other Ifles and main Land of Scotland, and if it
were not for the Sea-ware by which the Ground
is enriched , it would yield but a very fmall
product.

THERE is lately diſcovered in divers parts,


abundance of Lime-ftone, but the Inhabitants
are not fufficiently Inftructed in the uſe of it,
for their Corn Land.

THERE is plenty of Good Peats, which


ferves as fewel for the Inhabitants , especially
on the Main .
THE
Weſtern Islands of Scotland, &c. 391

THE Amphibia of thefe Ifles, are Seals and


Otters in abundance ; fome of the latter are
train'd to go a Fiſhing, and fetch ſeveral forts
of Fifh home to their Mafters.

THERE are no Trees in any of thefe Ifles,


neither is there any Venomous Creature to be
found here.

THERE have been ſeveral ſtrange Fiſh ſeen


by the Inhabitants at Sea, fome of the fhape of
Men as far as the middle, they are both trouble-
fome and very terrible to the Fishers, who call
them Sea Devils.

IT is not long fince, every Family of any


confiderable Subſtance in thofe Iflands were
haunted by a Spirit they called Browny, which
did ſeveral forts of Work, and this was the rea-
fon why they give them Offerings of the Vari-
&
ous Products of the Place, thus fome when they
churn'd their Milk , or brewed, poured fome
Milk and Wort through the Hole of a Stone
called Brownies Stone.

A Miniſter in this Country, had an Account


from one of the Ancient Inhabitants who for-
merly Brewed Ale,and fometimes read his Bible,
that anOld Woman in theFamily told him that
Browny was much difpleas'd at his reading in
that
392 A Deſcription of the

that Book, and if he did not ceaſe to read in it


any more,Browny would not ferve him as former-
ly. But the Man continued his reading notwith-
Ítanding, and when he brewed refus'd to give
any Sacrifice to Browny ; and fo his firſt and ſe-
cond Brewing miſcarried without any viſible
Cauſe in the Malt, but the third Brewing pro-
ved Good, and Browny got no more Sacrifice
from him after that.

THERE was another Inſtance ofa Lady in


Unft, who refuſed to give Sacrifice to Browny,
and loft two Brewings, but the third proved

good, and fo Browny vanished quite, and trou-
bled them no more.

I ſhall add no more, but that the great num-


ber of Foreign Ships, which repair hither year-
ly upon the account of Fishing ; ought to ex-
cite the People of Scotland,to a speedy Improve-
ment of that profitable Trade, which they may
carry on with mvic Eafe and Profit in their own
Seas, than any Foreigners whatever.

FINIS.

Rep²
R.H

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