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Instruction Manual

For Domestic Sewing Machine Series 5000


IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
When using an electrical appliance, basic safety should always be 10. Always unplug sewing machine from the electrical outlet when
followed, including the following: removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user
Read all instructions before using this sewing machine. servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.
11. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock: 12. Do not use outdoors.
1. An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. 13. Do not operate where aerosol spray products are being used or
2. Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately where oxygen is being administered.
after using, as well as before cleaning and other maintenance. 14. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off ("O") position, then remove
3. The sewing machine is equipped with a LED lamp. If the LED lamp plug from outlet.
is broken, it must be replaced by the manufacturer or its service 15. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the
agent in order to avoid a hazard. cord.
16. The sound pressure level under normal operating conditions is
WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric 75dB(A).
shock, or injury to persons: 17. Please turn off the machine or unplug when the machine is not
1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary operating properly.
when this appliance is used by or near children. 18. Never place anything on the foot controller.
2. Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this 19. If the supply cord that fixed with foot controller is damaged, it must
manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer be replaced by the manufacturer or its service agent or a similar
as contained in this manual. qualified person in order to avoid a hazard.
3. Never operate this appliance if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not 20. This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including
working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or
water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given
center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment. supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance by a
4. Never operate the appliance with any air openings block. Keep person responsible for their safety.
ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free 21. Children should be supervised to ensure that they do not play with
from accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth. the appliance.
5. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required 22. Keep the instruction at a suitable place that close to the machine,
around the sewing machine needle. and hand it over if you give the machine to a third party.
6. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the 23. Always unplug the machine of you leave if unattended to avoid
needle to break. injury by expediently switch on the machine.
7. Do not use bent needles. 24. Don't use the machine in wet condition and location.
8. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle
causing it to break. SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
9. Switch the sewing machine off ("O") when making any adjustments in This sewing machine is intended for household use only.
the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading
bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the like.
3
Congratulations:

As the owner of a new sewing machine, you will enjoy precision quality stitching
on all types of fabrics, from multiple layers of denim to delicate silks.

Your sewing machine offers the ultimate in simplicity and ease of operation. For
your safety and to fully enjoy the many advantages and ease of operation of your
sewing machine, we recommend that you read all the important safeguards and
use and care instructions in this instruction book.

May we suggest that before you start to use your sewing machine, you discover
the many features and advantages by going through this instruction book, step by
step, while seated at your sewing machine.

4
List of contents

Details of the machine .............................................................6/7 Sewing on buttons ....................................................................27


Accessories ................................................................................8 How to sew buttonholes (for 5205, 5209, 5311A, 5223A) ........28
Fitting the snap-in sewing table ..................................................9 Sew 1-step buttonholes (for 5823A, 5832A) ............................29
Connecting machine to power source ......................................10 Zippers and piping ....................................................................30
Two-step presser foot lifter .......................................................11 Sewing with the Hemmer foot (optional) ..................................31
Attaching the presser foot holder .............................................12 3-step zig-zag ...........................................................................32
Winding the bobbin...................................................................13 Stitch selection .........................................................................33
Inserting the bobbin ..................................................................14 Smocking stitch .......................................................................34
Inserting the needle (System 130/705H) ..................................15 Sewing with the cording foot (optional) ....................................35
Threading the upper thread ......................................................16 Darning (optional) .....................................................................36
Automatic needle threader (5311A, 5223A, 5823A, 5832A) ....17 Practical stitches ......................................................................37
Thread tension .........................................................................18 Quilting (optional) .....................................................................38
Raising the bobbin thread ........................................................19 Gathering (optional)..................................................................39
Matching needle/ fabric/ thread ................................................20 Patch work................................................................................40
How to choose your pattern .....................................................21 Applique ...................................................................................41
Stitch width dial & stitch length dial ........................................22 Twin needle (optional) ..............................................................42
Sewing straight stitch ...............................................................23 Monogramming and embroidering with Embroidery hoop*....43/44
Reverse sewing/ Removing the work/ Cutting the thread ........24 The walking foot accessory (optional) ......................................45
Blind hem/ lingerie stitch (optional) ..........................................25 Maintenance .............................................................................46
Overlock stitches (optional) ......................................................26 Trouble shooting guide.............................................................47
5
Details of the machine

1. Thread tension dial 1 7


2. Thread take-up lever 2 8
3. Thread cutter
9
4. Presser foot
5. Needle plate
10
6. Sewing table and accessory box 3
7. Reverse sewing lever
8. Stitch width dial (for 5311A, 5823A, 5832A) 11
4
9. Bobbin winder stopper
10. Stitch length dial 5
11. Pattern selector dial
12. One step buttonhole lever (for 5823A, 5832A) 6
13. Automatic threader (for 5311A, 5223A, 5823A, 5832A)

12

13

6
Details of the machine

14. Horizontal spool pin 14


15. Bobbin winder spindle 20

16. Hole for second spool pin 15

17. Handwheel 16 21
18. Power switch 17 22
19. Main plug socket
23
20. Bobbin thread guide
21. Upper thread guide 24

22. Face plate


23. Handle
24. Presser foot lifter
18
25. Foot control
26. Power cord 19

25

26

7
Accessories

Standard accessories (1) 1 Standard accessories


a. All purpose foot a c1
b c2
b. Zipper foot
c1. Buttonhole foot (for 5205, 5209, 5311A, 5223A)
c2. Buttonhole foot (for 5823A, 5832A) 006806008 006905008 006909008 006Q6A0150
d. Button sewing foot
e. Seam ripper/ brush d e f g
f. Edge/ quilting guide
g. Pack of needles
h. Spool holder 006914008

i. Bobbin (3x) h i j k
j. L-screwdriver
k. Oil bottle
l. Darning plate m n
l
m. Second spool pin
n. Spool pin felt

Optional accessories (2)


(These 10 accessories are not supplied with this machine; they 2 Optional accessories
are however available as special accessories from your local
dealer.) o p q r s
o. Satin stitch foot
p. Overcasting foot
006804008 006803008 006800008 006810008 006812008
q. Hemmer foot
r. Cording foot
s. Blind hem foot t u v w x
t. Darning/ embroidery foot
u. Gathering foot
v. Quilting foot
006016008 006917008 006916008 006815008
w. Walking foot

8
Fitting the snap-in sewing table

Keep the snap-in sewing table horizontal, and push it in the


direction of the arrow. (1)

The inside of the snap-in sewing table can be utilized as an


accessory box.

To open, flip cover down as shown. (2)

9
Connecting machine to power source

Connect the machine to a power source as illustrated. (1) 1


For appliance is equipped with a polarized plug which must be
used with the appropriate polarized outlet. (2)

Attention:
Unplug power cord when machine is not in use.
A

Foot control
Foot control regulates the sewing speed. (3)

Attention:
Consult a qualified electrician if in doubt as to connect
machine to power source.
Unplug power cord when machine is not in use.
The appliance must be used with the foot controller KD-1902
(110-120V area)/ KD-2902 (220-240V area).

Sewing light
Press main switch (A) for power and light on. (" l ") 2 3

IMPORTANT NOTICE Polarized attachment plug


For appliance with a polarized plug (one blade is wider than
the other).
To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to
fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If it does not fit fully in
the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a
qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify
the plug in any way. (2)

Conductor ilntended
to be grounded

10
Two-step presser foot lifter

When sewing several layers or thick fabrics, the presser foot


can be raised a second stage for easy positioning of the work.
(A)

11
Attaching the presser foot holder

Raise the presser clamp (a) with the presser foot lifter. Attach
the presser foot holder (b) as illustrated. (1)

Attaching the presser foot a


Install the pin (d) of the presser foot (e) into the cut-out (c) of
the presser foot lifer. (2)

Removing the presser foot


c
Push the pin (d) of the presser foot forward to separate. (3)
b

Attaching the edge/ quilting guide d e


Attach the edge/ quilting guide (f) in the slot as illustrated. b
Adjust as needed for hems, pleats, quilting, etc. (4)
1 2

Attention:
Turn power switch to off ("O") when carrying out any of the
above operations!

c
e

3 4

12
Winding the bobbin

- Place thread and corresponding spool holder onto spool pin.


(1/2)

- Snap thread into thread guide. (3)

- Wind thread clockwise around bobbin winder tension discs. (4)

- Thread bobbin as illustrated and place on spindle. (5)

- Push bobbin winder spindle to right. (6)


1 2
- Hold thread end. (7)

- Step on foot control. (8)

- Cut thread. (9)

- Push bobbin winder spindle to left (10) and remove. 3 4

Please Note:
When the bobbin winder spindle is in "bobbin winding" position,
the machine will not sew and the hand wheel will not turn. To 5 6 7
start sewing, push the bobbin winder spindle to the left (sewing
position).

8 9 10
13
Inserting the bobbin

When inserting or removing the bobbin, the needle must be fully


raised.

- Remove the sewing table, then open the hinged cover. (1) a

- Pull the bobbin case tab (a) and remove the bobbin case. (2)

- Hold the bobbin case with one hand. Insert the bobbin so that
the thread runs in a clockwise direction (arrow). (3)

- Pull the thread through the slit and under the finger. (4) Leave
a 6 inch tail of thread. 1 2

- Hold the bobbin case by the hinged latch. (5)

- Insert it into the shuttle. (6)

Attention:
Turn power switch to off ("O") before inserting or removing
the bobbin. 3 4 5

14
Inserting the needle (System 130/705H)

Change the needle regularly, especially if it is showing signs of


wear and causing problems. D

Insert the needle as illustrated as follows: A

A. Loosen the needle clamp screw and tighten again after


inserting the new needle. (1)
B. The flat side of the shaft should be towards the back.
C/D. Insert the needle as far up as it will go. B

Attention: C
Turn power switch to off ("O") before inserting or removing
the needle.
1

Needles must be in perfect condition. (2)

B A C
Problems can occur with:
A. Bent needles
B. Damaged points
C. Blunt needles

15
Threading the upper thread

This is a simple operation but it is important to carry out correctly


as by not doing so several sewing problems could result.
- Start by raising the needle to its highest point (1), and continue
turning the handwheel counterclockwise until the needle just
slightly begins to descend. Raise the presser foot to release
the tension discs.
Note: For safety, it is strongly suggested you turn off the 1 2 3 4
power before threading.
- Lift up the spool pin. Place the spool of thread on the holder
with the thread coming off the spool as shown. For small
thread spools, place small side of spool holder next to spool. (2)
- Draw thread from spool through the upper thread guide (3)
and pulling thread through pre-tension spring as illustrated. (4)
- Thread tension module by leading thread down right channel
and up left channel. (5) During this process it is helpful to hold
the thread between the spool and thread guide.
- At the top of this movement pass thread from right to left
through the slotted eye of the take-up lever and then
downwards again. (6)
- Now pass thread behind the thin wire needle clamp guide (7)
and then down to the needle which should be threaded from
front to back.
- Pull about 6-8 inches of thread to the rear beyond the needle
eye. Trim thread to length with built in thread cutter. (8)
Note:
If your sewing machine is equipped with the factory installed
optional automatic needle threader, instructions for use can be
found on page 16. 5 6 7 8
16
Automatic needle threader (for 5311A, 5223A, 5823A, 5832A)

- Raise the needle to its highest position.


- Press lever (A) down as far as it will go. A
- The threader automatically swings to the threading position (B). B

- Pass thread around thread guide (C).


A C
- Pass the thread in front of the needle around the hook (D) D
from bottom to top.
B
- Release lever (A).
C D
- Pull the thread through the needle eye.

Attention:
Turn power switch to off ("O")! 1

17
Thread tension

Upper thread tension


Basic thread tension setting: "4" (1)
To increase the tension, turn the dial to the next number up.
To reduce the tension, turn the dial to the next number down.
A. Normal thread tension for straight stitch sewing.
B. Thread tension too loose for straight stitch sewing. Turn dial
to higher number.
C. Thread tension too tight for straight stitch sewing. Turn dial to
lower number.
D. Normal thread tension for zig zag and decorative sewing.
Correct thread tension is when a small amount of the upper 1 2
thread appears on the bottom side of fabric.
Lower thread tension (2)
To test the bobbin thread tension, remove the bobbin case and
bobbin and hold it by suspending it by the thread. Jerk it once or
twice. If the tension is correct, the thread will unwind by about
an inch or two. If the tension is too tight, it does not unwind at all.
If the tension is too loose, it will drop too much. To adjust, turn
the small screw on the side of the bobbin case.
Please note: A B
- Proper setting of tension is important to good sewing.
- There is no single tension setting appropriate for all stitch
functions, thread or fabric.
- A balanced tension (identical stitches both top and bottom) is
usually only desirable for straight stitch construction sewing.
- 90% of all sewing will be between "3" and "5".
- For zig zag and decorative sewing stitch functions, thread
tension should generally be less than for straight stitch sewing. C D
- For all decorative sewing you will always obtain a nicer stitch
and less fabric puckering when the upper thread appears on
the bottom side of your fabric.
18
Raising the bobbin thread

Hold the upper thread with the left hand. Turn the handwheel (1)
towards you (counterclockwise) lowering, then raising needle.

Note:
If it is difficult to raise the bobbin thread, check to make sure
the thread is not trapped by the hinged cover or the sewing
table.

Gently pull on the upper thread to bring the bobbin thread up 1


through the needle plate hole. (2)

Lay both threads to the back under the presser foot. (3)

2 3

19
Matching needle/ fabric/ thread

NEEDLE, FABRIC, THREAD SELECTION GUIDE


NEEDLE SIZE FABRICS THREAD
9-11(65-75) Lightweight fabrics-thin cottons, voile, serge, silk, muslin, Qiana, interlocks, Light-duty thread in cotton, nylon or
cotton knits, tricot, jerseys, crepes, woven polyester, shirt & blouse fabrics. polyester.

12(80) Medium weight fabrics-cotton, satin, kettleclote, sailcloth, double knits, Most threads sold are medium size and
lightweight woollens. suitable for these fabrics and needle sizes.
Use polyester threads on synthetic
14(90) Medium weight fabrics-cotton duck, woolen, heavier knits, terrycloth, denims. materials and cotton on natural woven
fabrics for best results. Always use the
16(100) Heavyweight fabrics-canvas, woolens, outdoor tent and quilted fabrics, same thread on top and bottom.
denims, upholstery material (light to medium).

18(110) Heavy woollens, overcoat fabrics, upholstery fabrics, some leathers and vinyls. Heavy duty thread, carpet thread.
(Use heavy foot pressure-large numbers.)

IMPORTANT: Match needle size to thread size and weight of fabric


NEEDLE, FABRIC SELECTION
NEEDLES EXPLANATION TYPE OF FABRIC
HA 1 Standard sharp needles. Sizes range thin to large. Natural woven fabrics-wool, cotton, silk, etc. Qiana.
15 1 9 (65) to 18(110) Not recommended for double knits.
15 1/705H(SUK) Semi-ball point needle, scarfed. 9(65) to 18(110) Natural and synthetic woven fabrics, polyester blends.
Knits-polyesters, interlocks, tricot, single and double knits. Can
be used instead of 15 1 for sewing all fabrics.
15 1/705H(SUK) Full ball point needle 9(65) to 18(110) Sweater knits, Lycra, swimsuit fabric, elastic.
130 PCL Leather needles. 12(80) to 18(110) Leather, vinyl, upholstery.
(Leaves smaller hole than standard large needle.)
Note: 1. Twin needles, can be purchased for utility and decorative work.
2. When sewing with twin needles, the stitch width dial should be set at less than "3".
3. European needles show sizes 65, 70, 80 etc. American and Japanese needles show size 9, 11, 12 etc.
4. Replace needle often (approximately every other garment ) and / or at first thread breakage or skipped stitches.
20
How to choose your pattern

To select a stitch, simply turn the pattern selector dial. The


pattern selector dial may be turned in either direction. a b c

For straight stitch, select pattern " " or " " with the pattern
selector dial. Adjust the stitch length with the stitch length dial.

For zigzag stitch, select pattern " " or " " with the pattern
selector dial. Adjust the stitch length and stitch width according
to the fabric being used.

To obtain the other patterns, turn the stitch length dial to "S1"
or "S2", select the pattern desired with pattern selector dial, and d
adjust the stitch width with the stitch width dial. (for 5311A,
5823A, 5832A)

Please consult the following stitch patterns chart.

a. Reverse lever
b. Stitch width dial (for 5311A, 5823A, 5832A)
c. Stitch length dial
d. Pattern selector dial

21
Stitch width dial & stitch length dial

Function of stitch width dial Stitch width dial For 2-dial model
The maximum zigzag stitch width for zigzag stitching is 5mm;
however, the width can be reduced on any patterns. The width
increases as you move stitch width dial from "0" - "5". (1)
The Stitch width dial is also the control for the straight stitch
infinite needle position. "0" position is center and "5" is full left
needle position (for 5823A, 5832A), "0" position is center and
"5" is full right needle position (for 5311A).

Function of stitch length dial while zig-zag stitching for 5311A


Set the pattern selector dial to zig-zag.
The density of zig-zag stitches increase as the setting of stitch
length dial approaches "0".
Neat zig-zag stitches are usually achieved at "2.5" or below. 1
(2)

Function of stitch length dial for straight stitching


For straight stitch sewing, turn the pattern selector dial to the Stitch length dial
straight stitch setting. Turn the stitch length dial, and the length
of the individual stitches will decrease as the dial approaches
"0". The length of the individual stitches will increase as the dial
approaches "4". (3) Generally speaking, use a longer stitch
length when sewing heavier weight fabrics or when using a
4 3 2 1 0.5 4 3 2 1 0.5
thicker needle or thread. Use a shorter stitch length when
sewing lighter weight fabrics or when using a finer needle or
thread.

2 3

22
Sewing straight stitch

To begin sewing, set the machine for straight stitch. (1)

S1

Place the fabric under the presser foot with the fabric edge lined
up with the desired seam guide line on the needle plate. (2)

Lower the presser foot lifter, and then step on the foot controller
to start sewing. (3)

2 3

23
Reverse sewing

To secure the beginning and the end of a seam, press down the
reverse sewing lever (A). Sew a few reverse stitches. Release
the lever and the machine will sew forward again. (1)

Removing the work

Turn the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) to bring the


thread take up lever to its highest position, raise the presser foot
and remove work behind the needle and presser foot. (2)

Cutting the thread


B
Pull the threads under and behind the presser foot. Guide the
threads to the side of the face plate and into thread cutter (B).
Pull threads down to cut. (3)

3
24
Blind hem/ lingerie stitch

* The blind hem foot is an optional accessory not supplied with Stitch width dial Stitch length dial
your machine.

For hems, curtains, trousers, skirts, etc.


Blind hem for stretch fabrics.
Blind hem/ lingerie for firm fabrics.
Set the machine as illustrated.

Note:
It takes practice to sew blind hems. Always make a sewing
test first.

Fold the fabric as illustrated with the wrong side uppermost. (1)
Place the fabric under the foot. Turn the handwheel forwards by
hand until the needle swings fully to the left. It should just pierce 4
the fold of the fabric. If it does not, adjust the stitch width 1
accordingly. (2) 2
Adjust the guide (3) by turning the knob (4) so that the guide
just rests against the fold.
Sew slowly, by pressing the foot control lightly guiding the fabric
along the edge of the guide. 3

25
Overlock stitches

* The overcasting foot is an optional accessory not supplied with Stitch width dial Stitch length dial
your machine.

Seams, neatening, visible hems.


Turn stitch length dial to "S1" or "S2", The stitch width can be
adjusted to suit the fabric.

Stretch overlock:
For fine knits, jerseys, neck edges, ribbing. (1)

Standard overlock:
For fine knits, jerseys, neck edges, ribbing. (2)

Double overlock stitch:


For fine knits, handknits, seams. (3)

All overlock stitches are suitable for sewing and neatening


edges and visible seams in one operation.
When neatening, the needle should just go over the edge of the
fabric.

Attention:
Use new needles or ball point needles or stretch needle!

1 2 3
26
Sewing on buttons

Install the darning plate. (1) Stitch width dial Stitch length dial

Change presser foot to button sewing foot.


Position the work under the foot. Place the button on the
marked position and lower the foot. Set the pattern selector
knob on " " and sew a few securing stitches. Select the zig-zag
stitch width according to the distance between the two holes of
the button. Turn the handwheel to check if the needle goes into
the right and the left hole of the button without any obstruction
(adjust the stitch width according to the button). Slowly sew on
the button with about 10 stitches. Select pattern " " and sew a
few securing stitches. (2) (for 5205, 5209, 5223A)

Position the work under the foot. Place the button in the desired
position, lower the foot. Set the pattern selector knob on zig zag 1
stitch " ". Adjust the stitch width to "3" - "5" according to the
distance between the two holes of the button. Turn the
handwheel to check that the needle goes cleanly into the left
and right holes of the button. Set the pattern selector knob on
straight stitch " ", and sew a few securing stitches. Set the
pattern selector knob on zig zag stitch " ", and slowly sew on
the button with about 10 stitches. Set the pattern selector knob
on straight stitch " ", and sew a few securing stitches. (2) (for
5311A, 5823A, 5832A)

If a shank is required, place a darning needle on top of the


button and sew. (3) For buttons with 4 holes, sew through the
front two holes first (2), push work forward and then sew
through the back two holes as described. (3)

2 3
27
How to sew buttonholes (for 5205, 5209, 5311A, 5223A)

Prepare Stitch width dial Stitch length dial


Set the stitch pattern dial to " ".

1. Take off the all purpose foot and attach the buttonhole foot.
2. Measure diameter and thickness of button and add 0.3 cm
(1/8") for bar tacks; mark buttonhole size on fabric.
3. Place fabric under the foot, so that mark on the buttonhole
foot lines up with the marking on the fabric. Lower the foot, so
that the center line of the fabric buttonhole comes to the
center of the foot hole.

Adjust the stitch length dial in the "0.5-1" to set stitch density.
Note: density varies according to the fabric. Always test sew a
buttonhole.

Follow the 4-step sequence changing from one step to another


5
(1-4)with the stitch pattern selector dial. Take care not to sew
too many stitches in stages 1 and 3. Use seam ripper and cut
buttonhole open from both ends towards the middle.

Tips :
- Slightly reduce upper thread tension to produce better results. 3
- Use a backing for fine or stretchy fabrics.
4
- It is advisable to use heavy thread or cord for stretch or knit
fabrics.
- The zig-zag should sew over the heavy thread or cord. (5)
2

28
Sew 1-step buttonholes (for 5823A, 5832A)

Buttonhole sewing is a simple process that provides reliable Stitch width dial Stitch length dial
results. However, it is strongly suggested to always make a
practice buttonhole on a sample of your fabric and stabilizer.

Making a Buttonhole
1. Using tailor's chalk, mark the position of the buttonhole on the
fabric.
2. Attach the buttonhole foot and set the Pattern Selector Dial to
" ".
Set stitch length dial to " ". Set the stitch width at "5". The
width however may need to be adjusted according to the
project, Sew a test first to determine this.
3. Lower the presser foot aligning the marks on foot with the 3
marks on the fabric (1). (The front bar tack will be sewn first.)
(Align the mark on the fabric (a) with the mark on the foot (b).) 4
4. Open the button plate and insert the button (2).
5. Lower the buttonhole lever and gently push it back (3). P US
H
2
6. While lightly holding the upper thread, start the machine. a b
7. Buttonhole stitching is done in the order (4).
1
8. Stop the machine when the buttonhole cycle has completed.
1 2 3 4
Making a Buttonhole on Stretch Fabrics (5)
When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabric, hook heavy thread or
cord under the buttonhole foot. When the buttonhole is sewn the
legs will overcast the cord.
1. Mark the position of the buttonhole on the fabric with the
tailor's chalk, attach the buttonhole foot, and set the pattern
selector dial to " ". Set stitch length dial to " ".
2. Hook the heavy thread onto the back end of the buttonhole
foot, then bring the two heavy thread ends to the front of the
foot, insert them into the grooves and temporarily tie them PUS
H

there.
3. Lower the presser foot and start sewing.
*Set the stitch width to match the diameter of the gimp thread.
4. Once sewing is completed, gently pull the heavy thread to
remove any slack, then trim off the excess. 5
29
Zippers and piping

Set the machine as illustrated. Stitch width dial Stitch length dial

The zip foot can be inserted right or left, depending on which


side of the foot you are going to sew. (1)

To sew past the zip pull, lower the needle into the fabric, raise
the presser foot and push the zip pull behind the presser foot.
Lower the foot and continue to sew.

It is also possible to sew in a length of cord, into a bias strip to


form a 'welt'.(2)

Set stitch length dial between "1" - "4" (according to thickness


of fabric).

1 1 2
30
Sewing with the Hemmer foot (optional)

* The hemmer foot is an optional accessory not supplied with Stitch width dial Stitch length dial
your machine.

For hems in fine or sheer fabrics.

Set the machine as illustrated.

Neaten the edge of the fabric. At the beginning of the hem, turn
under the edge twice by about 3mm (1/8") and sew 4-5 stitches
to secure. Pull the thread slightly towards the back. Insert the
needle into the fabric, raise the presser foot and guide the fold
into the scroll on the foot. (1)

Gently pull the fabric edge towards you and lower the presser
foot. Begin sewing, guiding the fabric into the scroll by holding it
upright and slightly to the left. (2)

1 2
31
3-step zig-zag

Sewing on lace and elastic, darning, mending, reinforcing edges. Stitch width dial Stitch length dial

Set the machine as illustrated.

Place patch in position. The stitch length can be shortened to


produce very close stitches. (1)

When mending tears, it is advisable to use a piece of backing


fabric to reinforce. The stitch density can be varied by adjusting
the stitch length. First sew over the center and then overlap on
both sides. Depending on the type of fabric and damage, sew
between 3 and 5 rows. (2)

Sewing elastic
1. Place the elastic on the fabric.
2. As you sew, stretch the elastic both in the front and behind
the presser foot as shown in fig. (3)

Joining fabric
The elastic stitch can be used to join two pieces of fabric
together and is very effective when sewing knitted fabrics. If
nylon thread is used, the stitch will not be visible.
1. Place the edges of the two pieces of fabric together and
center them under the presser foot.
2. Sew them together using the elastic stitch taking care to keep 1 2
the two fabric edges close together as shown in fig. (4)

3 4
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Stitch selection

Triple straight stitch: (1) Stitch width dial Stitch length dial
For hardwearing seams.
Turn the stitch length dial to "S1" or "S2".
The machine sews two stitches forwards and one stitch
backwards. This gives triple reinforcement.

Triple zig-zag: (2)


For hardwearing seams, hems and decorative seams. Stitch width dial Stitch length dial
Turn the stitch length dial to "S1" or "S2".
Adjust the stitch width dial to between "3" and "5".
Triple zig-zag is suitable for firm fabrics like denim, corduroy,
etc.

2
33
Smocking stitch

Seams, hems, T-shirts, underwear, etc. Stitch width dial Stitch length dial

Set the machine as illustrated.

This stitch can be used for all types of jersey as well as for
woven fabrics. (1)

Sew at 1cm (1/4") from the fabric edge and trim the surplus
fabric. (2)

1 2

34
Sewing with the cording foot (optional)

* The cording foot is an optional accessory not supplied with Stitch width dial Stitch length dial
your machine.

Decorative effects, cushions, tablecloths, etc.

Set the machine as illustrated.

Various stitches are suitable for sewing on cord, e.g. Zig-zag,


Triple zig-zag, decorative stitches.

Insert the cord between the spring covering the cord groove and
the foot. The cord should run in the groove. One, two or three
cords can be sewn on. The stitch width is adjusted according to
the number of cords and the stitch selected. (1/2)

1 2

35
Darning (optional)

* The darning/ embroidery foot is an optional accessory not Stitch width dial Stitch length dial
supplied with your machine.

Set the machine as illustrated.

Install the darning plate. (1)

Remove the presser foot clamp. (2)

Attach the darning foot to the presser foot holder. The lever (a)
should be behind the needle clamp screw (b). Press the darning
foot on firmly from behind with your index finger and tighten the
screw (c). (3)
1
First sew round the edge of the hole (to secure the threads). (4)
First row: Always work from left to right. Turn work by 1/4 and
oversew.

A darning ring is recommended for easier sewing and better


a
results.

b
c

2 3
36
Practical stitches

Set the machine as illustrated. Stitch width dial Stitch length dial

Shell hem (1)


For decorative edges.
Suitable for edges on sheer, fine and stretch fabrics. The larger
stitch should go just over the edge of the fabric to create the
shell effect.
- This stitch requires a tighter thread tension than normal.
- Place the fabric under the presser foot so that it will be sewn
along the bias with the straight stitches sewn on the seamline
and the zigzag stitches sewn slightly over the folded edge.
- Sew at a slow speed.

Rampart (2)
For flat joining seams, sewing on elastic, visible hems.
This stitch can be used for firm, thicker fabrics.

Bridging (3)
For seams, place mats, tablecloths.
Decorative joining seam for a fagoted effect. Gathering with
cord or shirring elastic.

1 2 3

37
Quilting (optional)

* The quilting foot is an optional accessory not supplied with this Stitch width dial Stitch length dial
machine.

Set the machine as illustrated.

Insert the edge/quilting guide in presser foot holder and set the
space as you desired.

Move the fabric over and sew successive rows with the guide
riding along on the previous row of stitching.

38
Gathering (optional)

* The gathering foot is an optional accessory not supplied with Stitch width dial Stitch length dial
this machine.

Set the Pattern Selector as illustrated.

1. Attach the gathering foot.

2. Sew a single row or multiple rows of straight stitches.

3. If more gathering in required, loosen the upper thread (to


about 2) so that the lower thread lies on the under side of t h e
material.

4. Pull the lower thread to gather more of the material.

39
Patch work

These stitches are used to join two pieces of fabric while Stitch width dial Stitch length dial
leaving a space between their edges.

1. Fold over the edges of the two pieces of fabric for the hem and
baste the edges to a thin piece of paper leaving a small space
between them.
2. Set the Pattern selector as illustrated. Turn the stitch length
dial to "S1".
3. Stitch along the edge, pulling both threads slightly when
beginning to sew.
* Use thicker than normal threads for sewing.
4. After sewing, remove the basting and the paper. Finish by
tying knots on the reverse side at the beginning and the end
of the seams.

40
Applique

- Turn stitch length dial to the desired length. Stitch width dial Stitch length dial

- Turn pattern selector dial to small zig zag width.

- Cut out the applique design and baste it to the fabric.

- Sew slowly around the edge of the design.

- Trim excess material outside the stitching. Make sure not to


cut any stitches.

- Remove the basting thread.

- Tie top and bottom thread under the applique to avoid unraveling.

41
Twin needle (optional)

- Turn stitch length dial to the desired stitch length. Stitch width dial Stitch length dial

- Turn stitch selector to straight stitch, center needle position.

- For twin needle sewing, insert the extra spool pin into the hole
on top of the machine.

- Make sure that the two threads used to thread the twin needle
are of the same weight. You can use one or two colors.

- Insert the twin needle in the same way as single needle. Flat
side of needle should face away from you.

- Follow instructions for single needle threading. Thread each


needle separately.

Please note:
When sewing with twin needle, always proceed slowly, and
make sure to maintain a low speed to insure quality stitching.
When using twin needle on zig-zag make sure the stitch width
dial is set between "0" and "3". Do not use twin needle at
setting above "3" (for 5311A, 5823A, 5832A).

42
Monogramming and embroidering with embroidery hoop*

Preparation for Monogramming and Embroidering* Stitch width dial Stitch length dial
- Draw the desired lettering or design on the right side of the
fabric.
- Stretch the fabric between embroidery hoop as firmly as
possible.
- Place the fabric under the needle. Make sure the presser foot
bar is down in its lowest position.
- Turn the balance wheel towards you to bring up the lower
thread through the fabric. Sew a few securing stitches at the
starting point.
- Hold the hoop with thumb and forefingers of both hands while
pressing the material with the middle and third fingers and
supporting the outside of hoop with smaller finger.

* Embroidery hoop not included with machine.

43
Monogramming and embroidering with embroidery hoop*

Monogramming
1. Sew, moving the hoop slowly along the lettering at a constant
speed.
2. Secure with a few straight stitches at the end of the last letter.

Embroidering
1. Stitch the outline of the design by moving the embroidery
hoop.
2. Fill in the design working from the outline of the design to the
inside and from the inside to the edge of the outline until the
design is completely filled in. Keep the stitching close
together.
* A long stitch is made by moving the hoop rapidly and a
short stitch is made by moving it slowly. 1
1 2
3. Secure with a few Straight Stitches at the end of the design.

3 4 4

44
The walking foot accessory

* The walking foot accessory is optional. It is not included with


this machine.
Fork arm Needle bar
Always try to sew first without the walking foot accessory which
should be used only when necessary.
Fork arm
It is easier to guide the fabric and you have a better view of the
seam when using the standard, regular foot on your machine.
Your sewing machine offers excellent stitch quality on a wide
range of fabrics from delicate chiffons to multiple layers of Needle
denim. screw & clamp Needle

The "Walking foot" accessory equalizes the feeding of the upper Attaching head
and lower layers of fabric and improves the matching of plaids,
stripes and patterns. This foot helps to prevent uneven feeding
of very difficult fabrics. 1 2
1. Lift the presser foot bar.
2. Remove the "foot holder" by opening counter clockwise the
presser bar attaching screw. (3)
Presser foot bar
3. Attach the "walking foot" to the machine in the following way.
i) The fork arm should fit into the needle screw and clamp. (2)
ii) Slide the plastic "attaching head" from your left to right so
that it is fitted into the "presser foot bar".
iii) Lower the "presser foot bar".
iv) Replace and tighten clockwise the "presser bar attaching
screw".
4. Make sure both the "needle screw" and the "presser bar
attaching screw" are tightly secured.
5. Draw the bobbin thread up and place both the bobbin thread
and the needle thread behind the walking foot attachment.
Presser bar
attaching screw
3

45
Maintenance

Attention:
Disconnect the machine from the electricity supply by
removing the plug from the mains socket. When cleaning
the machine, it must always be disconnected from the
electricity supply.

Remove the needle plate:


Turn the handwheel until the needle is fully raised. Open the
hinged front cover and unscrew the needle plate screw withe
the screw driver. (1)

Cleaning the feed dog:


Remove the bobbin case and use the brush supplied to clean
the whole area. (2) 1
1 2
Cleaning and lubricating the hook:
Remove the bobbin case. Snap the two hook retaining arms (3)
outwards. Remove the hook race cover (4) and the hook (5)
and clean withe a soft cloth. Lubricate at the points (7) (1-2
drops) with sewing machine oil. Turn the handwheel until the
hook race (6) is in the left position. Replace the hook (5).
7
Replace the hook race cover and snap back the two hook
retaining arms. Insert he bobbin case and bobbin and replace
the stitch plate. 6 5

Important:
Fabric fluff and threads must be removed regularly. Your 4
machine should be serviced at regular intervals at one of our
service agencies.
3
46
Trouble shooting guide

Problem Cause Correction


Upper thread breaks 1.The machine is not threaded correctly. 1.Rethread the machine.
2.The thread tension is too tight. 2.Reduce the thread tension (lower number).
3.The thread is too thick for the needle. 3.Select a larger needle.
4.The needle is not inserted correctly. 4.Remove and reinsert the needle (flat side towards the back).
5.The thread is round wound the spool holder pin. 5.Remove the reel and wind thread onto reel.
6.The needle is damaged. 6.Replace the needle.
Lower thread breaks 1.The bobbin case is not inserted correctly. 1.Remove and reinsert the bobbin case and pull on the thread.
2.The bobbin case is threaded wrongly. The thread should pull easily.
3.The lower thread tension is too tight. 2.Check both bobbin and bobbin case.
3.Loosen lower thread tension as described.
Skipped stitches 1.The needle is not inserted correctly. 1.Remove and reinsert needle(flat side towards the back).
2.The needle is damaged. 2.Insert a new needle.
3.The wrong size needle has been used. 3.Choose a needle to suit the thread and fabric.
4.The foot is not attached correctly. 4.Check and attach correctly.
Needle breaks 1.The needle is damaged. 1.Insert a new needle.
2.The needle is not correctly inserted. 2.Insert the needle correctly (flat side towards the back).
3.Wrong needle size for the fabric. 3.Choose a needle to suit the thread and fabric.
4.The wrong foot is attached. 4.Select the correct foot.
Loose stitches 1.The machine is not correctly threaded. 1.Check the threading.
2.The bobbin case is not correctly threaded. 2.Thread the bobbin case as illustrated.
3.Needle/ fabric/ thread combination is wrong. 3.The needle size must suit the fabric and thread.
4.Thread tension wrong. 4.Correct the thread tension.
Seams gather or 1.The needle is too thick for the fabric. 1.Select a finer needle.
pucker 2.The stitch length is wrongly adjusted. 2.Readjust the stitch length.
3.The thread tension is too tight. 3.Loosen the thread tension.
Uneven stitches, 1.Poor quality thread. 1.Select a better quality thread.
uneven feed 2.The bobbin case is wrongly threaded. 2.Remove bobbin case and retread and insert correctly.
3.Fabric has been pulled. 3.Do not pull on the fabric while sewing, let it be taken up by the
machine.
The machine is noisy 1.The machine must be lubricated. 1.Lubricate as described.
2.Fluff or oil have collected on the hook or needle bar. 2.Clean the hook and feed dog as described.
3.Poor quality oil has been used. 3.Only use good quality sewing machine oil.
4.The needle is damaged. 4.Replace the needle.
The machine jams Thread is caught in the hook. Remove the upper thread and bobbin case, turn the handwheel
backwards and forwards by hand and remove the thread remands.
Lubricate as described.
47
Manufacturer: Shanghai Shanggong & Butterfly Sewing Machine Co.,Ltd.

Add.: 3rd Floor, SMPIC Building, No.669 Wusong Rd.,


Shanghai 200080,China
Tel.: 0086-21-51078800
Fax: 0086-21-65453524
http: //www.shanggong-butterfly.com

021K6G0101(EN)

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