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92853

ÄNG (MEADOW) – CHILD’S TOP WITH RUFFLES

This summer top is knitted from the top down. It begins at the back with a center back opening and
increases at the sides for the armholes. For the front, stitches are picked up along the shoulders and
then the neckline is shaped with increases and decreases. The front and back are joined at the
underarms and then the rest of the top is knitted in the round. The top is embellished with a lace
ruffle at the lower edge. Stitches are picked up around each armhole for a ruffle shaped with short
rows. Finally, the neckline is finished with an I-cord.

YARN GARMENT’S POSITIVE EASE Approx. 2-4 in / 5-10 cm

Colin (65% cotton (35% linen, 164 yd/150 m / 50 g) GARMENT’S CHEST Approx. 22¾ (24½, 25½, 27¼, 28¼)
ALTERNATE YARN SUGGESTIONS in / 58 (62, 65, 69, 72) cm
Elise (60% cotton, 40% acrylic, 184 yd/170 m / 50 g) GARMENT’S LENGTH Approx. 12¾ (13½, 14¼, 15, 16½)
Llama Silk (70% baby llama, 30% mulberry silk, 180 in / 32 (34, 36, 38, 42) cm
yd/165 m / 50 g) YARN AMOUNTS AND COLORS
Soft Raggi (65% premium acrylic, 30% bamboo rayon, Approx. 100 (110, 120, 130, 150) g (color 28104, Greyish)
5% polyester, 293 yd/268 m / 100 g) NEEDLES U. S. size 4 / 3.5 mm: circular 24 in / 60 cm and
GAUGE Approx. 22 sts x 30 rows/rnds in stockinette U. S. 2.5 / 3 mm: circular 24-40 in / 60-100 cm
with larger size needles = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm. NOTIONS 1 button, stitch markers
Adjust needle size to obtain correct gauge if necessary. LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY **
SIZES-CL 74-80 (86-92, 98-104, 110-116, 122-128) cl DESIGN Sigrid Marie Blom
SIZES-AGE 6-12 months (1-2, 2-4, 4-6, 6-8) years

STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES For more help, see the video on Järbo’s youtube
M1R = make 1 right: With left needle, lift strand channel: https://youtu.be/Sn28lla3W9s.
between 2 sts from back to front and knit into front
loop = right-leaning increase. BACK
M1L = make 1 left: With left needle, lift strand between Left Side
2 sts from front to back and knit into back loop = left- With larger size circular, CO 26 (27, 28, 30, 31) sts.
leaning increase. Row 1 (WS): K1 (edge st), purl until 1 st rem, k1 (edge
Edge Stitches: Unless other specified, always knit the st).
outermost stitch at each side as an edge stitch. Row 2 (RS): Sl 1 wyf, knit to end of row.
Rep these two rows until piece measures 1¼ (1¼, 1¼,
German Short Rows: Double st (DS): The double stitch 1½, 1½) in / 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) cm. End with a WS row. Place sts
or German short rows is a turning method that does not on a holder while you work right side of back.
leave holes at each turn. Work to st where work will be
turned. Sl 1 purlwise wyf, firmly pull yarn backwards Right Side
over right needle so you flip st and have 2 stitch legs or With larger size circular, CO 26 (27, 28, 30, 31) sts.
a double stitch (DS) on the needle; work rem sts on Row 1 (WS): Sl 1 wyf, purl until 1 st rem, k1 (edge st).
needle. Row 2 (RS): Knit across.
After working the specified number of short rows, you Rep these two rows until piece measures 1¼ (1¼, 1¼,
will join the double sts one at a time. Work to 1st DS, 1½, 1½) in / 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) cm. End with a WS row.
knit or purl it in pattern, catching both legs of DS to
make 1 st. Knit 1 row on RS and then move held left side sts to
It will help you keep track of the double sts if you place needle and knit across = 52 (54, 56, 60, 62) sts.
a marker at each so you can count them and minimize
the danger of missing one as you continue knitting.

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Continue, working back and forth in stockinette with an Now work back and forth inside edge sts at each side
edge st at each side until piece measures 2½ (2½, 2½, until front is same length as back was BEFORE increases
2½, 2¾) in / 6 (6, 6, 6, 7) cm. End with a WS row. for armhole (fold at marker on shoulder top). End with a
Now shape armholes by increasing as follows: WS row.
Row 1 (RS): K1 (edge st), M1L, knit until 1 st rem, M1R, Now shape armholes by increasing as follows:
k1 (edge st). Row 1 (RS): K1 (edge st), M1L, knit until 1 st rem, M1R,
Row 2 (WS): K1 (edge st), purl until 1 st rem, k1 (edge k1 (edge st).
st). Row 2 (WS): K1 (edge st), purl until 1 st rem, k1 (edge
Rep these two rows until you’ve worked them a total of st).
5 (6, 7, 7, 8) times = 62 (66, 70, 74, 78) sts. Set back aside Rep these two rows until you’ve worked them a total of
while you work front. 5 (6, 7, 7, 8) times = 62 (66, 70, 74, 78) sts.

FRONT BODY
Left Side Now join front and back.
With larger size needle, pick up and knit 19 (19, 20, 22, With RS facing, knit across front, CO 2 sts with
23) sts along left shoulder. backwards loop CO, knit sts of back, CO 2 sts with
Row 1 (WS): K1 (edge st), purl until 1 st rem, k1 (edge backwards loop CO = 128 (136, 144, 152, 160) sts.
st). Continue stockinette in the round until piece measures
Row 2 (RS): BO 2 sts, knit to end of row. 11 (11¾, 12¾, 13½, 15) in / 28 (30, 32, 34, 38) cm down
Rep these two rows until you’ve worked them a total of center back or 1½ in / 4 cm less than desired total
2 (2, 2, 3, 3) times = 15 (15, 16, 16, 17) sts. length. BO but do not cut yarn.

Pm to mark top on shoulder. Work 3 (3, 5, 5, 7) rows RUFFLE

back and forth in stockinette, with a k1 edge st on each With larger size needle, pick up and knit 1 st in each
side. bound-off st around lower edge = 128 (136, 144, 152,
160) sts. Work following chart 1, repeating chart sts 16
Now increase for neck as follows: (17, 18, 19, 20) times around. After Row 13, there are
Row 1 (RS): K1 (edge st), M1L, knit to end of row. 256 (272, 288, 304, 320) sts.
Row 2 (WS): K1 (edge st), purl until 1 st rem, k1 (edge BO, alternating knit and purl sts as shown on chart.
st).
Rep these two rows until you’ve worked them a total of RUFFLES AROUND ARMHOLES
5 (6, 6, 7, 7) times = 20 (21, 22, 23, 24) sts. Place sts on Beginning at center of underarm, pick up and knit 56
holder while you work right side. (56, 64, 64, 72) sts around armhole. Pm for beginning of
rnd. Work 5 (5, 5, 5, 6) rep of chart.
Right Side [= 40 (40, 40, 40, 48) sts]; turn (use German Short Rows
With larger size needle, pick up and knit 19 (19, 20, 22, for turning) and work 3 (3, 2, 2, 3) rep back. *Turn, work
23) sts with short end of yarn along right shoulder. 1 rep past first turn; turn and work 1 rep past previous
Row 1 (RS): Knit across with long yarn end. turn on other side.*
Row 2 (WS): BO 2 sts, purl until 1 st rem, k1 (edge st). Rep *–* another 1 (1, 2, 2, 2) times.
Rep these two rows until you’ve worked them a total of Now work in the round until you’ve worked Row 13 of
2 (2, 2, 3, 3) times = 15 (15, 16, 16, 17) sts. the 3 (3, 2, 2, 3) rep centered on shoulder. This way, the
ruffle will be longer at the shoulder than at the
Pm to mark top of shoulder. Work 4 (4, 6, 6, 8) rows back underarm. There should now be 112 (112, 124, 124,
and forth in stockinette inside edge st at each side. 140) sts.
BO, alternating knit and purl sts as shown on chart.
Now increase for neck as follows:
Row 1 (RS): K1 (edge st), M1L, knit until 1 st rem, M1R, NECKBAND
k1 (edge st).. Use short end of yarn and smaller size circular to pick
Row 2 (WS): K1 (edge st), purl until 1 st rem, k1 (edge up and knit approx. 60 (65, 70, 80, 84) sts around neck.
st). Make an I-cord for the edging using long yarn end. CO 3
Rep these two rows until you’ve worked them a total of sts on left needle. *K2, k2tog tbl (joining one of the
5 (6, 6, 7, 7) times = 20 (21, 22, 23, 24) sts. “new” sts and one picked up around neck), slide the 3
sts to left needle and work*; rep from *–* until you’ve
Work across sts of right front, CO 12 (12, 12, 14, 14) sts worked all the sts around neck.
with backwards loop CO at end of row, work sts of left BO the 3 sts rem on left needle.
front = 52 (54, 56, 50, 62) sts.

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FINISHING SCHEMATIC MEASUREMENTS

Sew a button at top of one side of back opening and A ≈ 22¾ (24½, 25½, 27¼, 28¼) in / 58 (62, 65, 69, 72) cm
make a loop to fit button on opposite side. B ≈ 12¾ (13 ½, 14¼, 15, 16½) in / 32 (34, 36, 38, 42) cm
Weave in all ends neatly on WS. C ≈ 4¼ (4½, 5, 5¼, 5¾) in / 11 (11.5, 12.5, 13, 14.5) cm
Dampen top, preferably from a spray bottle. Press out D ≈ 8¾ (9, 9¾, 10¾, 11½) in / 22 (23, 25, 27, 29) cm
water by rolling top up in a towel. Pat out top to E ≈ 4 (4¼, 4¼, 5¼, 5¼) in / 10 (11, 11, 13, 13) cm
finished measurements on a flat surface. Leave flat until
completely dry.

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Version 1

TIPS & SHORTCUTS

To avoid questions: Before you begin knitting, read through the pattern.

Stitch count: Always knit or crochet a gauge swatch as recommended in the pattern. If
your stitch count doesn’t match the gauge given in the pattern, try again with larger or
smaller needles or hook. If your gauge doesn’t match that in the pattern, your item will not
be the correct size or shape.

Highlight the size you will knit or crochet throughout the pattern to make it easier to follow
the instructions.

Charts: It will be easier to follow a chart if you mark your row with a ruler and magnetic
board or sticky note.

Ease: The amount of ease included in our garments varies depending on the type and
shape of the garment. To determine the right size, we recommend that you first measure
your body. Then you can calculate the garment size depending on how much ease you
want the garment to have. The schematics for each piece show all the garment
measurements.

Two-color stranded knitting: When knitting more than 3-4 stitches of the same color, twist the
color strands around each other on the wrong side to avoid long strands or “floats” on the
back. If the yarns need to be twisted on several rows/rounds, make sure you do not stack the
twists in the same place to prevent the yarns from showing through on the right side.

Tips för hand dyed yarn: Make sure you have enough yarn to complete your project. The
colors may vary from time to time. To get a smooth color mix, you can alternate between
two skeins: knit two rows from one and two rows from another skein.

ABBREVIATIONS
KNITTING
alt = alternately, approx. = approximately, beg = begin, bl = back loop, BO = bind off, BOR = beginning of
row/round, cc = contrasting color, cn = cable needle, CO = cast on, col = color, cont = continue, dec =
decrease, dpn(s) = double-pointed needles, EOR = end of row/round, fl = front loop, g st = garter stitch,
inc = increase, k1f&b = knit in front and back loop of same stitch, k = knit (stitch), k2tog = knit two stitches
together (right-slanting decrease), kw = knitwise, LH = left hand needle, m = marker, mm = millimeters,
mc = main color, p = purl (stitch), patt = pattern, pm = place marker, pw = purlwise, rep = repeat, rnd(s) =
round/rounds, RH = right hand needle, RM = remove marker, RS = right side, sl = slip, sl m = slip marker, ssk
= slip, slip, knit, st(s) = stitches, St st = stockinette/stocking stitch, tog = together, WS = wrong side, wyib =
with yarn in back, wyif = with yarn in front, yo = yarn over

CROCHETING
approx. = approximately, beg = begin, bl = back loop, ch = chain stitch, col = color, cont = continue,
dc = double crochet, dec = decrease, dtr = double treble crochet, fl = front loop, hdc = half double
crochet, htr = half treble crochet, inc = increase, m = marker, mc = main color, rep = repeat, rnd/rnds
= round/rounds, RS = right side, sc = single crochet, sl st = slip stitch, sts = stitches, tog = together, tr =
treble crochet, tr tr = triple treble crochet, WS = wrong side, yo = yarn over

DIFFICULTY
* = Suitable for those who have just started knitting or crocheting
** = Suitable for those who have knitted or crocheted some before
*** = Suitable for those who are experienced knitters or crocheters

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 A ≈ 58 (62) 65 (69) 72 cm
B ≈ 32 (34) 36 (38) 42 cm
C ≈ 11 (11,5) 12,5 (13) 14,5 cm
D ≈ 22 (23) 25 (27) 29 cm
E ≈ 10 (11) 11 (13) 13 cm

knit on RS, purl on WS k2tog on RS, p2tog on WS

purl on RS, knit on WS k2tog tbl on RS, p2tog tbl on WS

no stitch, skip this square on chart BO with knit st

yarnover BO with purl st