First Edition, 2012

ISBN 978-81-323-2612-0

© All rights reserved.

Published by:
Orange Apple
4735/22 Prakashdeep Bldg,
Ansari Road, Darya Ganj,
Delhi - 110002
Email: [email protected]
 Table of Contents

Chapter 1 - Introduction to Dog Training

Chapter 2 - How to Become a Dog Trainer

Chapter 3 - How to Train a Golden Retriever

Chapter 4 - How to Train a Dog to Hunt

Chapter 5 - How to Train any Dog to Sit

Chapter 6 - How to Crate Train a Dog or Puppy

Chapter 7 - How to Teach a Pup to Be a Watch Dog

Chapter 8 - How to Train a Guard Dog

Chapter 9 - How to Choose an Online Dog Training Course

Chapter 10 - How to Train Your Dog for a Dog Show

Chapter 11 - Police Dog

Chapter 12 - Search and Rescue Dog

Chapter 13 - Dog Intelligence and Assistance dog

Chapter- 1

Introduction to Dog Training

Dog training is the process of teaching a dog to perform behaviors in response to certain
commands. The most common behaviors are "sit", "lay down", and teaching the dog to
relieve itself outside. The most effective way to train a dog involves using treats and
positive reinforcement. In addition, many trainers use a clicker.

There are many methods of dog training and many objectives, from basic obedience
training to specialized areas including law enforcement, military, search and rescue,
hunting, working with livestock, assistance to people with disabilities, entertainment, dog
sports and protecting people or property.

As pack animals, wild dogs have natural instincts that favor cooperation with their fellow
dogs. Many domestic dogs, either through instinct or breeding, can correctly interpret and
respond to signals given by a human handler.

Basic training

Most dogs live with people who want them to behave in ways that make them pleasant to
be around, keep them safe, and provides for the safety of other humans and pets. Dogs do
not figure out basic obedience on their own. The fundamental rule that must be
remembered is that one should never apply human standards of society onto the dog with
the assumption that the dog will understand.

The hardest part of training is communicating with the dog in a humane way that the dog
understands. However, the underlying principle of all communication is simple: reward
desired behavior while ignoring or correcting undesired behavior.

Basic pet obedience training usually consists of six behaviors:

• Sit
• Down
• Stay
• Recall ("come", "here" or "in")
• Close (or loose-leash walking)
• Heel
"Corrections" are not punishment, but feedback to the dog it has made an incorrect choice
in the behavior it has given the handler. Corrections can be physical i.e. leash correction
or mental i.e. withdrawing a reward. There have been wide swings lately on negative and
positive training, but most skilled trainers use both. The dog's personality, the behavior
and the importance of the correct behavior should all be taken into account in using
corrections with your dog. In a nutshell negative corrections should only be used to
eliminate a behavior and positive rewards to repeat a behavior.

Puppies and learning

The prenatal period is a recently recognized developmental period of puppies. It is

thought that "long-term effects on behavioral development may also be produced in some
mammals by events occurring in utero". Previous studies tended to overlook the existence
of this period, since the puppy’s behavior could not be observed. With the development
of the ultrasound machine, a puppy can now be observed within the mother as early as
the fourth week of gestation.

It was found that puppy fetuses would react to touch and/or pressure from the outside of
the mother’s abdomen. In addition, it is theorized that since puppies have such a well-
developed sense of touch at birth, the sense of touch would also be well-developed before
birth. Studies have found that "when a pregnant animal is petted her litter is more docile",
According to Fox, this facilitates relaxation, emotional attachment, and socialization.
Other studies have indicated that puppies that receive outside contact (petting of the
mother) while in utero have a higher tolerance for touching than puppies that receive no
contact at all. One could theorize that gentle petting of the mother’s abdomen could help
to facilitate positive, beneficial puppy socialization with people.

During the first four weeks of a puppy's life, also known as the neonate period, puppies
can learn simple associations. However, early experience events are unlikely to carry
over into later periods. Studies indicate that puppies in the neonate period do not seem to
learn by experience. It is theorized that this is due to the fact that the puppy’s brain,
sense, and motor organs are still undeveloped. Based on its limited capacity to sense and
learn it would be difficult to affect the puppy psychologically, either in a positive or
negative sense.

The next period of development is known as the socialization period. This period begins
around 3 weeks old and ends around 12 weeks old. The main aspect of this period is
social play. Social investigation, playful fighting and playful sexual behavior is very
important to developing social relationships during its life. New behavior patterns are
directly influenced by the puppy’s interaction with its mother and other puppies in the
litter.

During this period puppies develop social relationships, with other puppies as well as
with people. However, there is a point at which the puppies can develop a fear of
strangers. At 3–5 weeks of age, puppies will actively approach strangers. Shortly
thereafter stranger avoidance begins and slowly escalates until it peaks around 12–14
weeks of age. While this natural fear of strangers could serve as a way to keep a curious
puppy away from predators, it can also hinder normal relationships with people.

During this period, startle reactions to sudden movement and sounds develop. This serves
to help the puppy learn to differentiate between dangerous and safe or insignificant
events. During the socialization period, the development of attachment to certain
locations occurs. This is displayed by an extreme disturbance in the puppy whenever a
change in location occurs. This is known as localization. (Serpell, 1995) Localization
often peaks in puppies between 6–7 weeks old, and then tapers off after that time until a
change in location is no longer distressing to the puppy.

Dogs that are handled and petted by humans regularly during the first eight weeks of life
are generally much more amenable to being trained and living in human households.
Ideally, puppies should be placed in their permanent homes between about 8 and 10
weeks of age. In some places it is against the law to take puppies away from their
mothers before the age of 8 weeks. Puppies are innately more fearful of new things
during the period from 10 to 12 weeks, which makes it harder for them to adapt to a new
home.

Puppies can begin learning tricks and commands as early as 8 weeks of age; the only
limitations are stamina, concentration, and physical coordination.(Beaver, 1999; Lindsay,
2000; Scott and Fuller 1965; Serpell 1995)

Teething

Between three to six months of age, a puppy begins to get its adult teeth, with all adult
teeth in by six months. This period can be quite painful and many owners do not
recognize the natural need to chew. By providing specific chew toys designed to ease the
pain of teething (such as a frozen nylon bone), attention can be diverted from table legs
and other furniture. It may be helpful to avoid providing chewing objects that mimick
other non-appropriate chewing objects; for example, do not allow the puppy to chew on
stuffed, plush toys early on so they do not learn that it is appropriate to chew on any
fabric or stuffed material (rugs, couches). Many people also use a bad-tasting, bad-
smelling spray on favorite items, such as shoes, furniture, or even wallpaper, to
discourage chewing. Bitter apple is a commonly used spray, however is alcohol based so
must be re-applied at least every 24 hours. There are also several commercial sprays
available. Different sprays work better for different applications, owners, or puppies.

Basic training classes

Professional dog trainers, train the dog's owner to train his or her dog. To be most
effective, the owner must use and reinforce the techniques taught to the dog. Owners and
dogs who attend class together have an opportunity to learn more about each other and
how to work together under a trainer's guidance. Training is most effective if all those
who handle the dog take part in the training to ensure consistent commands, methods, and
enforcement. Classes also help socialize a dog to other people and dogs. Training classes
are offered by many kennels, pet stores, and independent trainers.

Group classes may not be available until the puppy has completed all of its vaccinations
around 3 – 4 months of age; however, some trainers offer puppy socialization classes in
which puppies can enroll immediately after being placed in their permanent homes as
long as disease risk is minimal and puppies have received initial vaccinations. In most
cases, basic training classes accept only puppies who are at least 3 to 6 months old
however it's recommended to start training as soon as the puppy comes into your home.
Puppies may also be trained individually by the trainer visiting the dog's home beginning
as early as 8 weeks.

A puppy requires discipline, consistency, and the patience of its owner. The puppy
training phase is integral in raising a healthy and happy dog and keeping a safe and fun
home environment.

Dogs are expressive and may communicate needs by biting, whining, and getting fidgety.
Changing one's own conduct may be effective in changing a puppy's behavior.

House training is an important issue for puppies. Various methods of house training will
work although the key is to be consistent. With regularly enforced rules, litter box, crate,
or paper training can be successful.

Posture Facilitated Relaxation (PFR) may be an effective technique to establish a bond

between handler and puppy. The handler puts the puppy no older than 4–6 months in a
down position and then holds the dog in that position by exerting only enough force to
maintain the position. Once the puppy stops struggling and relaxes, the handler massages
the puppy's neck and back. (Canine Dimensions, 2007, 23)

Communication

Fundamentally, dog training is about communication. From the human perspective, the
handler is communicating to the dog what behaviors are correct, desired, or preferred in
what circumstances and what behaviours are undesirable.

A handler must understand communication from the dog. The dog can signal that he is
unsure, confused, nervous, happy, excited, and so on. The emotional state of the dog is an
important consideration in directing the training, as a dog that is stressed or distracted
will not learn efficiently.

According to Learning Theory there are four important messages that the handler can
send the dog:

Reward or release marker

Correct behavior. You have earned a reward.
Keep going signal (KGS)
 Correct behavior. Continue and you will earn a reward.
No reward marker (NRM)
Incorrect behavior. Try something else.
Punishment marker
Incorrect behavior. You have earned punishment.

Using consistent signals or words for these messages enables the dog to understand them
more quickly.

It is important to note that the dog's reward is not the same as the reward marker. The
reward marker is a signal that tells the dog that he has earned the reward. Rewards can be
praise, treats, play, or anything that the dog finds rewarding. Failure to reward after the
reward marker diminishes the value of the reward marker and makes training more
difficult.

The meanings of the four signals are taught to the dog through repetition, so that he may
form an association by classical conditioning so that the dog associates the punishment
marker with the punishment itself. These messages may be communicated verbally or
with nonverbal signals. Mechanical clickers are frequently used as a reward marker, as
are the words "yes!" or "good!". The word "no!" is a common punishment marker.
"Whoops!" is a common NRM. A KGS is commonly a repeated syllable (such as "g-g-g-
g-g" or a drawn out word such as "gooooood".)

Hand signals and body language also play an important part in learning for dogs. Some
sources contend that the most effective marker is the human voice.

Dogs do not generalize commands easily. A command which may work indoors might be
confusing out-of-doors or in a different situation. The command will need to be re-taught
in each new situation. This is sometimes called "cross-contextualization," meaning the
dog has to apply what's been learned to many different contexts.

Reward and punishment

Most training revolves around establishing consequences for the dog’s behavior. Operant
conditioning defines these following four types of consequences.

1. Positive reinforcement adds something to the situation to increase the chance of

the behaviour being exhibited again.
2. Negative reinforcement removes something from the situation to increase the
chance of the behaviour being exhibited again.
3. Positive punishment adds something to the situation to decrease the chance of
the behaviour being exhibited again.
4. Negative punishment removes something from the situation to decrease the
chance of the behaviour being exhibited again.
Most trainers claim that they use "positive training methods ". Generally, this means
using reward-based training to increase good behavior rather than physical punishment to
decrease bad behavior.

Dogs should not be punished by being placed within a cage, crate or carrier, especially
one similar to where they eat or sleep. While this may confine the dog from further
disruptive behaviour, and also may seem similar to "sending a child to their room" as a
form of punishment, the dog's mind will unfortunately begin to associate the cage with
punishment, and will experience anxiety if put into the container, as a result of the
negative feelings associated with it. Punishment involving confinement is an unusual and
confusing type of situation for a dog, and should not be used for proper punishment.

Rewards

Positive reinforcers can be anything that the dog finds rewarding - special food treats, the
chance to play with a tug toy, social interaction with other dogs, or the owner's attention.
The more rewarding a dog finds a particular reinforcer, the more work he will be
prepared to do in order to obtain the reinforcer. Just being happy about a dog's
accomplishment is a reward to them.

Some dog trainers for example suggest using treats that are particularly favoured by your
pooch. Your dog or puppy may particularly enjoy liver treats or cheese. However, always
make sure that the treat that you use as a positive reinforcer is healthy and will not
damage your dog or puppy's overall health.

Some trainers go through a process of teaching a puppy to strongly desire a particular toy,
in order to make the toy a more powerful positive reinforcer for good behaviour. This
process is called "building prey drive", and is commonly used in the training of Narcotics
Detection and Police Service dogs. The goal is to produce a dog who will work
independently for long periods of time, in the hopes of earning access to its special toy
reward.

Correction are only effective when paired with teaching the dog desired behaviors, but
tend to be ineffective without teaching the dog the proper ways to avoid the correction
and achieve reward. Corrections should only be administered as appropriate for the dog's
personality, age, experience and physical and emotional condition. Some dogs may show
signs of fear or anxiety with harsh verbal corrections. Other dogs may ignore a verbal
reprimand. Some dogs develop an aversion or fear of water, when water is sprayed at
them as an aversive.

Tricks

Many dog owners teach their dogs tricks. This serves several purposes: it develops a
stronger relationship between the dog and human, it provides entertainment, and it
engages the dog's mind, which can help to alleviate problems caused by boredom.
 Training tools
Tool Definition
The choke collar is a length of metal-link chain with a large circular ring
on either end. The chain is slid through one of these rings and it is slid over
Choke Collar
the dog's head. When the dog displays an undesirable behavior the collar is
tightened. This is primarily used in traditional dog training.
Prong Collar The prong collar is made of metal links that fit together by connecting
through long, usually blunt, teeth that point inward toward the dog’s neck.
A section of this collar is made of a loop of chain links that tighten the
Pinch Collar collar when pulled, pinching the dog's neck. The use of these collars is
controversial and is opposed by animal rights groups such as PETA. This
collar is mainly used in traditional dog training.
These consist of a radio receiver attached to the collar and a transmitter
that the trainer holds. When triggered, the collar delivers an aversive. The
specific aversives vary with different makes of collars. Some emit sounds,
some vibrate, some release citronella or other aerosol sprays, some apply
electrical stimulation. A few collars incorporate several of these. Of these,
electrical stimulation is the most common and the most widely used. Early
Radio-
electrical collars provided only a single, high-level shock and were useful
controlled
only to punish undesirable behavior. Modern electrical collars are
Collars
adjustable, allowing the trainer to match the stimulation level to the dog's
sensitivity and temperament. They deliver a consistent and measured level
of aversive stimulation that produces significant discomfort and startle
without risk of producing permanent physical injury. Lindsay finds these
collars inappropriate for use as the initial or primary means for establishing
basic obedience control.
The martingale collar is a collar that has only a section on it that will
tighten when pulled. It consists of the main collar piece, as well as a
smaller chain or fabric loop where the leash attaches. This is different from
the choke collar that will tighten indefinitely. They are often considered
Martingale safer than a choke collar because they will release tension instantly, while a
Collar choke collar often gets stuck. While they are now mainly used as a training
collar, they were originally called Greyhound collars and used on breeds
such as Sighthounds whose necks are as big around as their heads and can
easily slip out of a flat buckle collar. The chain loop allows the collar to be
loose and comfortable, but tightens if the dog attempts to back out of it.
The head collar is very similar to a halter on a horse. The theory it is that if
you have control of the head, you have control of the body. The head collar
generally consists of two loops. One loop goes behind the ears and the
Head Collar
other goes over the dog's nose and they meet somewhere below the dog's
jaw. This tool makes it more difficult for the dog to pull on his leash. This
tool is usually employed during positive reinforcement training.
The no-pull harness is worn on the body of the animal. The no-pull harness
No Pull
differs significantly from the standard harness since it makes it harder for
Harness
the dog to pull because it distributes energy over the dog’s back and
 shoulders. The no-pull harness restricts the movement of the dog’s body
when the dog pulls. Like the head collar, the no pull harness does not teach
the dog not to pull; it only makes it harder for the dog to pull.

Specialized training

Dogs are also trained for specific purposes, including:

• Detection dogs
• Assistance dogs
• Herding dogs, livestock guardian dogs, and sheep dogs
• Hunting dogs
• Police dogs
• Rescue dogs
• Schutzhund German for "protection dog". There are three disciplines the dog must
achieve (tracking, obedience, and personal protection).

Guard animals

Due to their natural social structure — which is territorial and protective of companions
—companion animals may exhibit some form of alert behaviors toward intruders.
However guard dogs and police dogs are not simultaneously intended to be companion
animals.

Guard dogs are defined as canines who either by training, or by instinct, protect either
property, persons or objects. A well-trained guard dog protects person, property or
objects on command and "turns-off" on command as well.

Several methods to train guard animals include the western (e.g. Koehler Method,
developed by William Koehler, a military dog trainer and animal trainer for Walt Disney
productions) and eastern methods. The Schutzhund sport also includes a protection phase
in which the dog bites a padded sleeve worn by a "decoy" who plays the role of a "bad
guy" threatening the dog's handler; the dog must also release on command and guard the
decoy.

In some circumstances, when dogs are left alone to guard property it may be necessary to
train them to not eat treats or other food items offered by unknown persons.

A dog trainer is a person involved in the training and mental growth of dogs.

Professional dog trainers train the dogs to understand and comply with voice commands
or hand signals. They also educate dog owners in proper use and technique. This is an
important part of the dog training process if the trainer expects the owner to achieve the
desired level of cooperation from his dog.
Notable dog trainers

• Steve Austin, judge on the Network Ten series Celebrity Dog School
• Francis Butler, author and veterinarian who specialised in the training and control
of dogs
• Anne Rogers Clark, co-author of the The International Encyclopedia of Dogs and
first woman to win best in show at Westminster as a professional handler
• Richard Curtis, winner of the first Crufts freestyle heelwork to music final
• Felix Ho, Professional Dog Behaviorist, International Dog Sport championship
competitor and judge
• Martin Deeley, 2007 UK Gundog Trainer of the Year
• Marie-Josée Gatian, professional dog trainer and behavioral specialist and author.
Owner of THE Dog Class
• Tamar Geller, developer of "the Loved Dog" method of dog training
• Frank Inn, professional animal trainer who worked with the dogs in the Benji
series
• Brian Kilcommons, author of various pet training manuals and winner of Dr Steve
Kritsick Memorial Award from the NY State Veterinary Medical Society
• Brad Pattison, star on the Slice.ca series At the end of my leash
• Cesar Millan, star of on the National Geographic Channel series Dog Whisperer
• Paul Owens, author of the 1999 book The Dog Whisperer and a DVD of the same
name (unrelated to the National Geographic series)
• Victoria Stillwell, host of Channel 4 series It's Me or the Dog and judge on the
CBS show Greatest American Dog
• Kyra Sundance, stunt dog performer and author of the bestselling book 101 Dog
Tricks
• Ronald White, star of the PBS show Animal Attractions Television
• Barbara Woodhouse, host of BBC series Training Dogs the Woodhouse Way and
author of No Bad Dogs and Dog Training My Way
• M. Christine Zink, author of Peak Performance: Coaching the Canine Athlete,
Dog Health and Nutrition for Dummies, The Agility Advantage, and Jumping
from A to Z: Teach Your Dog to Soar and Building the Canine Athlete: Strength,
Stretching, Endurance and Body Awareness Exercises.
Chapter- 2

How to Become a Dog Trainer

Have you ever thought about training dogs for a living, but didn't know where to begin?
Get the inside scoop from a successful professional trainer.
Steps

1. Consider whether you enjoy working with people as well as dogs. Many
people get into the profession of dog training without realizing that what dog
trainers do is really to train people to train dogs. You must have patience and
empathy, and be as good a coach to your human clients (lots of positive
reinforcement!) as you are to your dogs.
2. Get an education. There is no degree required to become a dog trainer, but you
should attain both "book knowledge" and hands-on experience before offering
your services to the public. Read books, attend seminars, watch DVDs. Get
hands-on experience by mentoring under another trainer if possible, and volunteer
to work at your local shelter or with rescue groups. Shelter/rescue work is a great
way to get hands-on experience with dogs of various breeds and temperament.
3. Consider whether you want to teach group classes, do private lessons, or
both. You will probably start out by training part-time while working another job.
Whether you can make a living as a full-time trainer depends on how many
classes/sessions you are willing to do per week, how much demand there is for
trainers in your geographic area, and whether you offer other additional services
such as board-and-train.
4. You need to consider whether you want to be a dog trainer, a behavior
counselor, a pet care provider or a pet care expert who can offer a wide
number of services across all three disciplines. Dog Trainers focus on helping
their clients build dog obedience behavior repertoires. The training involves
teaching a dog new skills such as ‘sit/stay’ to prevent the dog from begging at the
table or teaching the dog to ‘come’ when the owner wants the dog to return to
them. On the other hand behavior counseling involves working with a client to
change an existing problematic behavior often requiring that you teach the dog an
 alternative response to a set of circumstances. The results of a survey conducted
by Goodloe and Borchelt showed that from a pool of 2018 dogs,: 38% said their
dogs showed some fear toward loud noises, 22% reported fear toward unfamiliar
adults, 33% were fearful toward unfamiliar children and 14% exhibited fear
toward unfamiliar and non threatening dog. Because of this if you are considering
a career in dog training you need to look at options that educate you and support
your growth as a dog trainer and a behavior counselor. Your clients will
appreciate it and your bottom line will benefit.

Tips

• Join the International Association of Canine Professionals and/or the Association

of Pet Dog Trainers where you can network with other trainers online, attend
conferences, and continue your education even if you are not a professional
trainer just yet.
• The book "So You Want to be a Dog Trainer" by Nicole Wilde contains info on
all of the above topics plus advertising, equipment, phone tips, trainer etiquette
and more, and has sample forms you can use in your business.
• There is now a certification offered by the Certification Council for Pet Dog
Trainers. Once you have enough experience, consider becoming certified.
• Certification as a Dog trainer and as a Dog Training Instructor also available
through IACP
• Animal lovers looking to become Certified Dog Trainers can enroll at Animal
Behavior College for their in-home study program with hands-on training
• Join a Dog Training Franchise that offers both academic learning and hours of
hands on training. A franchise like The DogSmith will then mentor you as you
 career grows so you continually improve your skills and be a dog trainer and a
dog behavior counselor.

Warnings

• Do not feel that you have to take every case that comes your way. If you receive a
request to handle an issue such as aggression, which you are not yet comfortable
with or experienced in handling, refer the caller to another trainer. Then ask
whether you can come along to watch and learn.
• If you are ever on a private session and you feel that you are in over your head
behavior-wise, again, let the client know and refer to another trainer.

How to Train Your Dog using the M.U.T.T. Method

Does your dog jump, chew, pull on leash, go in the other direction when you call come?
Teach your dog obedience and solve behavior problems using the M.U.T.T. Method.
Steps

1. M = Management: A big part of dog ownership is effectively managing your

dog’s behavior. Crates, kennels, baby gates, and leashes are some tools to help
you manage your dog’s behavior.
2. U = Underlying: Whenever you are dealing with a behavior problem you have to
understand that there is an underlying problem. For instance, if a dog is digging
there could be many different underlying reasons for the digging. It could be that
the dog is bored, frustrated, hot, or it could be breed specific. Terriers love to dig.
3. T = Train: You need your dog to understand the basics -- sit, down, stay, walk,
and come. Soon, you will be able to control your dog in situations where it might
become excitable. In addition to regular obedience training, you'll want to teach
your dog that you are the leader. Have your dog work for attention, food, and
playing.
4. T = Time – Realize that any behavior program is going to require time.
Tips

• Anytime you’re faced with a behavior problem, remember the acronym M.U.T.T.
and apply each step. You’ll be happy with the results.
Chapter- 3

How to Train a Golden Retriever

Have you got yourself an unruly Goldie? We will deal with the four "building block"
commands that you will need.

Steps

1. Recognize the first basic commands to teach your Golden Retriever.

o Sit – Your Goldie will sit down in place. This is self explanatory.
o Stay – Your Goldie will stay where it is currently standing, even if you
should walk away.
o Lie – Your Goldie will lie down on the floor.
o Heel – Your Goldie will follow you [by your heelside] as you walk.
2. Have patience before beginning to train your dog. Golden Retriever is one of
the most intelligent dog breeds in the world. Don't be frustrated if he or she
doesn't pick up on anything on your first few sessions.
3. Choose a selection of tasty treats. Reserve these treats for your Goldie for when
you are training him/her.
4. Start with the sit. Stand your dog in front of you and hold the treat firmly in your
hand then move it towards the shoulders. As you say sit gently push their bottom
to the ground. Praise and reward.
5. Repeat this process but introduce the command sit. Your dog will then
associate sitting with being treated.
6. Move onto lying. Once your dog sits you can teach him to lie. Have him sitting in
front of you. Hold the treat firmly in your hand or move it towards the floor. As
your dog starts to go down move it at ground level towards you. Once he lying
down praise and reward.
7. Repeat but introduce the command. As your dog gets better at this you can
remove the sit command and have him going straight to lie from standing.
8. Move to the heel command. Walking to heel is surprisingly easy. Have your dog
on a short leash on your left. Hold a treat in your right hand about level with your
lower ribs in the center of your body.
9. Make sure your dog knows the treat is there. Walk away and give the heel
command. Keep his attention on you and don't be afraid to keep repeating the
command. Stop and praise every few yards.
10. As you get better at this, slowly increase the length of leash until it's long but
loose. To keep his attention on you use other commands. For example introduce a
stop command (the dog should stop but remain standing), the sit command and
the lie command.
11. Finish with the final building block, the stay command.
12. Tie your dog up at first if necessary. Get him in the sit or lie position and firmly
tell him to stay. Take two steps away but remain facing him. Count to three. Then
return and praise. Don't expect him to remain still at first.
13. Practice stay. The stay command generally needs the most practice. Eventually
you will be able to untie him and turn your back.
14. Add new commands/tricks once you have the basic four commands - the
building blocks.
Tips

• Keep training sessions to a maximum of 10 minutes - dogs have short attention

spans and you don't want them getting bored. Have training sessions regularly.
• End each session on a high note - even if you have to go back to something they
know such as sit.
• Goldies are very intelligent - make sure to keep them stimulated with toys etc.
during the day when they are separated from you. Dogs are normally unruly and
excitable because they get bored.
• Make sure water is always available. Change your dog's water 3 times a day.
• Use the commands during your normal day with them, for example make them sit
when you put the leash on, heel when they are walking next to you etc.
• Dont ever leave the pup alone, by itself, when it is teething.
• When you leave it, make sure it's not more than 1 hour or so at first. Make sure
they are safely in the crate with a few toys, chews and a water bowl. Also always
have newspapers down.

Warnings

• Don't over feed your dog treats - goldies are notorious for suffering from hip
problems if overweight. No table scraps either, because this will teach the dog to
beg constantly at the table for food.
• Don't physically punish your dog - the word NO strongly emphasised will be
enough. If he has been very naughty, a sharp tap on the nose will suffice.
• Golden Retrievers are VERY active dogs. They need to have lots of exercise. Up
to 2 hours a day of good running. If you can not provide this, get a calmer dog.
With other 100 breeds of dogs out there there is more than one that will meet your
needs, many that will meet your needs better.
 • Don't get a Golden Retriever because of the cute movies featuring them, because
you are trying to make a fashion statement, or because your girlfriend squels
when she sees one. Dogs are for life, not just for Christmas or a one of present.
• Never forget that you are responsible for the dog as if you are a parent. Be careful.
• Think of your dog as well as your self. You think that they really want to wear a
stripy jumper, socks or hat. Didn't think so.

Things You'll Need

• One dog
• treats
• one short leash
• one longer leash
• lots of chew toys
How to Train a Scared Dog to Go Down the Stairs

Are you tired of your dog being scared of the stairs and refusing to climb them? Read
these steps and this behaviour will stop.
Steps

1. Start at the bottom of the stairs, if possible. This will be easier for your dog and
it won't be so scared of falling down the stairs. If there are no stairs in your house,
then go to a nearby park or somewhere that your dog is comfortable in. Make sure
that your dog knows this place, because if not he might become easily distracted
in this new environment.
2. Play with your dog around the stairs. Sit with your dog on the stairs with your
dog laying down on the ground, for example. If your dog is absolutely terrified of
the stairs, then you might not want to play next to the stairs right away. Instead,
you could sit about 5 feet away from the stairs on your first day, then sit a foot
closer every day. If your dog is already used to the stairs (this would probably be
the case if you're trying to get your dog to go up the stairs in your house) then you
can move onto the next step.
3. Put a leash on your dog. If your dog trusts you enough and will follow you to the
end of the earth, then you might not need a leash. If your dog is scared of the
stairs, then you will definitely need the leash.
4. Take out some of your dog's treats.
5. Go to maybe the fifth stair. put a dog bone on the 3rd stair (if it's small).
6. Encourage your dog to come up.
Tips

• This might take a few days to accomplish, so be patient! Don't worry, it pays off.

Warnings

• If your dog shows any signs of aggression, stop. Signs of aggression include
growling, baring teeth, putting ears back, and snapping.
• Give your dog a break every once and a while. Don't stress your dog out too
much, because then it won't want to work and you will both be in a bad mood.
• Don't attempt to train your dog when you are in a bad mood or after a fight.
Remember, dogs can sense your mood fluctuations and can become equally sad or
angry.
• Don't force your dog to do anything it doesn't want to do. This may cause your
dog to eventually turn on you and hurt you and many innocent people.
Things You'll Need

• A dog that is scared of stairs

• Stairs
Chapter- 4

How to Train a Dog to Hunt

Dogs are good hunters

Ever been waterfowl hunting without a bird dog? There is nothing quite like hunting near
a lake on a frozen winter day, shooting a duck, swimming in the near freezing water to
collect your prize, and swimming back to shore with duck in mouth. Let’s face it: all
serious waterfowl hunters understand and appreciate the convenience and rewards of a
hunting partner with four legs. With the proper training your dog will not only be able to
help you successfully hunt waterfowl, it will also serve as an obedient, loving, lifelong
friend. If you want to fill your hunting bags with birds and your heart with love, follow
these simple steps to choose, train, and develop a first class waterfowl hunting dog. This
method does not work with all dogs. It works best with Spaniels, Terriers, Pointers, and
Retrievers.
Steps

1. Research the different breeds of water dogs. There are many dogs suitable for
hunting waterfowl. Some of the most popular are Labrador Retrievers,Golden
Retrievers and Springer Spaniels. Look into the different breeds and decide which
one is best for you and your hunting adventures. You should also be mindful of
the amount of care a particular breed will need. Some dogs require a lot of room
to run, for example, while others are more sedentary. Choose a dog that you can
provide a good home for.
2.

A born hunter (and best friend)

 Pick out a puppy. Although there are many adult dogs that are trained to hunt
waterfowl, it is generally best to train your own puppy. Not only will a puppy
allow you the time to train the dog for your hunting style, starting with a puppy
will also ensure a loyal dog that is bonded and conditioned to its owner. Make
sure you use a reputable breeder; you can research breeders online or at your local
dog or hunting clubs.

3. Introduce the puppy to water when they are little. Instill the idea that water is
good, water is fun, and playing in water is a way to earn rewards and other
positive reinforcement. You can start in a small wading pool at first, and in no
time your dog will be ready for the open water.
4. Teach your dog to sit and stay. Although these are basic and cliché dog
commands, they serve as the foundational commands for more complex hunting
demands. Use food as a way to teach sitting. Hold food over the dog’s head. Give
the command to sit while simultaneously pressing gently on the dog’s hind legs.
As soon as the dog sits give it a treat. Repeat this over and over. Soon your dog
will sit at the first glance of a treat. Eventually, he or she will sit without requiring
a treat.
5. Introduce your dog to decoys and to the scent of waterfowl. It is important that
your dog quickly understand the difference between a real duck and a decoy. You
can utilize waterfowl scent and dummies to train your dog. Be sure to set decoys
far away from the dog before throwing the dummy so they are able to find out
where the dummy is and knows the difference between a real bird and a decoy.
6. Practice daily, if possible. Make waterfowl training a fun, rewarding experience
for your dog.
7. Reinforce positive behavior with positive rewards. When you attach a scent to
a decoy or training device, throw it in the water, and see your dog fetch the trainer
and return it to you, make sure to let your dog know what a good job it has done.
There is nothing a dog wants more than to please its owner, and to establish a
lifelong hunting partnership it is important to let your dog know from a young age
that retrieving game is something he or she will be rewarded for.
8. Expose your dog to actual hunting situations before taking it out into the
field. A dog that is trained only in theory may not perform to expectations in the
field. A dog that is expected to perform around guns needs to be trained in the
presence of guns. Take your waterfowl dog with you when you target practice, or
set up simulated hunts in a proper shooting area. The key point is that your dog
has to be prepared for actual situations if you expect it to perform like a seasoned
hunter. Condition your dog prior to the hunt. You want your dog at peak
performance in the field.
9. Use training dummies early and often. The more you train your dog to the scent
and feel of waterfowl, the more your dog will impress you in the field.
Remember, a dog’s biggest pleasure is pleasing its owner, so if you show
appreciation for good behavior in practice your dog will certainly please you in
hunting situations.
10. Train your dog in a boat prior to a hunt if boats are going to be used. Load it
in and out, and practice retrieving dummies from the boat.
 Caddo Lake Tx

11. Simplify the training by keeping it simple. Your basic goal is to get your dog to
retrieve the bird. In your training program focus on rewarding your dog for
retrieving the training dummy. It is in the natural instincts of a retriever to want to
go after, retrieve, and return a shot bird. It is the job of the owner to get the dog
trained to consistently and methodically do so.

Tips

• Don’t be afraid to use treats in training your dog. Again, you are trying to
reinforce good deeds, and a treat means an awful lot to your faithful companion.
• Use actual hunting scenarios as much as possible in the training phase.
• In training, start out shooting away from the dog and slowly adjust until you are
shooting right over the dog, so that it won't be afraid during actual hunting.
• Research waterfowl dog training on the internet or consider purchasing one of
many training videos; if nothing you do seems to work, enlist the help of an
experienced trainer.
 Tee

• At least one person has used films with the sound of guns in them successfully to
achieve this.
• JOIN A HRC (Hunting Retriever Club)In your area. Search Hrc in the google
search box. These clubs are everywhere in the US

Warnings

• Dogs are animals; they are not human. Do not expect your dog to automatically
understand what you want it to do. Training a dog to hunt waterfowl takes time,
patience, and positive reinforcement. Don’t get mad at your dog if it doesn’t
understand your commands. If your dog isn’t learning, the problem is probably
you: explore as many training methods as possible, and be prepared to devote
plenty of time to training.
• You can not learn to train a dog by reading or via the internet..
• You learn by doing and making mistakes...
• Most of the training is common sense something that is in short supply today..

Things You'll Need

• Dog
• Waterfowl decoys and dummies
• A lot of time
• Real birds
 • Land to train on.. Shoot on
• Leash or some sort of training restraints (if training a pup)

How to Give Your Dog Basic Training

You don't have to be a drill sergeant to train your new companion, however training your
dog takes time, love, and patience; not to mention oodles of praise. You need to be firm
and consistent, but this is a time to bond with your canine companion. These are just the
basic steps which will prepare you for teaching the basic and advanced commands and
dealing with trouble behaviors.
Steps

1. Work with your companion regularly. Every day at first and then several times
a week to keep those lessons fresh and make the exercises second nature for both
of you.
2. Keep lessons and work session short enough that your pet (not to mention
you yourself) doesn't get overwhelmed, frustrated, tired, or distracted.
Usually 15-20 minutes is plenty.
3. Don't move on to the next set of exercises until your and your pet have
mastered the present ones. And always review what has been learned before.
4. Have fun, but don't treat it as play time. Your pet needs to know the difference.
Right after each session, make time for some type of play or attention to reward
you and your pet and signify the end of the "work time".
5. Praise is your most powerful teaching technique; so use it frequently and
enthusiastically! Don't hold back! Praise your dog by petting his back, rubbing
his ears and head, and using a cheerful voice different from the command tone.
Don't start romping with him at this point, however, or your lesson is over.
o Praise for each thing your dog does properly (even if she didn't know she
was doing it or you didn't tell her to) as soon as she does it. This reinforces
a pleasant result from doing the act.
o Use praise after correction only after the desired result is obtained. This
will show your dog more clearly the difference in your response between
her wrong behavior and the right one.
6. Correction is used stop the wrong action and show the right one. It should be
done firmly, but not angrily. Praise enthusiastically when he does it right, and
repeat the exercise two or three more times right away to reinforce the right
action.
7. Use short phrases or words for commands that tell your dog what you want
her to do. They need to be the same every time. Don't use similar terms to mean
 different things; for instance, if you use the term "down" to mean 'lie down', then
use an entirely different word such as "off" to mean 'get down')
o Give commands in a firm tone of voice. At first, the command and
showing her the right action should be done at the same time. Later, give
the command first, and show her only if she hesitates or gets it wrong.
Always follow with praise.
o Always say your dogs name before the command to alert him and make
sure he is paying attention. And you should practice each of these both
inside and outside, so he knows the rules apply the same way in both
places.

Tips

• What you teach your pet should be a useful task, not a 'trick' to amuse yourself or
others
• You don't need to use food as a reward. You can start out with bite sized treats if
you wish, but if you begin to substitute praise as your puppy learns you shouldn't
need to keep giving food. It's not really a "treat" if it's expected. And as your dog
grows older and less active, but still expects the same treats for the same things,
she will tend to become overweight.
• Teaching is always easier if started when your pup is very young. If you are trying
to teach an older dog, be sure you keep alert for signs of confusion or fear,
especially if you don't know how he was treated before you had him. The methods
remain the same, however, changing an older dog's habits and responses takes
longer.
• Be careful not to let an older dog teach you bad habits! For instance, "place" is a
command meaning for the dog to take her place sitting at the left side in
 preparation to heal. It's amazing how many people will say "Place!" and move to
the dog's right side!!

Warnings

• Having the right equipment is very important when training your dog. Never train
your dog with a retractable leash! It will send mixed messages and make training
more difficult.
• Do not use spiked or pronged collars. If you feel you need a pronged collar to
train a difficult dog, then you need an expert trainer.
• Very Important! When you give your dog a command, always make sure she
follows it (whether you really care or not if does). Once your dog learns that she
or he can get away with not obeying once, she or he will only do it if she feels like
it and you have lost control. Your commands have just become suggestions
instead.
Things You'll Need

• A six foot training leash. Nylon or leather; not chain or retractable.

• A training collar. This is just a chain with a ring on each end. Some people prefer
nylon, they are used the same way, they are especially good for training overly
timid dogs who are frightened by the noise of the chain)
• A 20-30 foot lead for teaching recall. (you can make your own with clothes line
and a heavy clasp)
Chapter- 5

How to Train any Dog to Sit

Here's a simple guide to help anyone teach their dog to sit.

Steps

1. Find an area where distractions will be minimal to both you and your dog,
you could even turn off your TV and perform this lesson in your living room.
2. Make sure you have some tasty treats to hand to reward your dog with.
3. With your dog on the lead and one of their treats in your opposite hand,
show them the treat but don't give it to them.
4. Using the hand holding the treat show your dog it and then twist it away
from your dog so that the palm of your hand is now facing you but shielding
the treat from your dog. As you do this say to your dog 'siiit' prolonging the
word sit.
 o This coupled with your hand movement should make the dog put his/ her
back end to the ground in the sit position.
o As your dog gets better at doing this you can then shorten the word sit and
eventually the more you use this word in association with the dog
receiving a treat for sitting down the less you'll need a treat in your hand
and only the word sit to accomplish this task.

Tips

• Try different movements with your hand but the key is to show the dog the treat
and then shield it from them.
• Be patient with your dog
• Don't get cross with them if they don't get it right to begin with.
• You can even mix the treat up with praising your dog instead. Just remember to
do something good that your dog will enjoy for doing what you've commanded
them to do.
 • Eventually you'll also be able to do this without the lead. (use the lead in case
you're outside).

Warnings

• If outside beware of other people and animals around you.

• Don't act agressive in front of a dog.

Things You'll Need

• Dog lead
• Dog treats
• Some patience

How to Teach Your Dog to Sit

This dog is the perfect example on how your dog should sit!
Teaching your dog tricks is not a piece of cake, so you can start off with an easy trick.
One of my favorite easy tricks are teaching your dog how to sit! Read on to learn how to
teach your playful pup to sit.

Steps

1. Stand in front of you dog. Why you ask? Because if you're standing behind your
dog they cant see you and it would be very difficult to learn.
2. Hold the treat in the palm of your hand and close your hand. Put your hand
near the dogs nose.
3. Take the hand that has the treat inside and slowly move your hand over your
pups head and toward his/her tail.
4. Say your dogs name and give him/her the command "sit".
5. Right when your dog sits say "good dog" or "good boy/girl" and give
him/her a treat.
6. Praise your dog abundantly and give your pet a treat for any movement that
resembles the sit position.
7. Release your dog from the sit position using the words "release" or "free"
command.
8. Repeat this trick for about five minutes so your dog can understand and
comprehend the trick.

Tips

• When you are holding the treat dont hold it too high over your dogs nose or
he/she will jump.
• Every once in awhile let other people in the household try and make the family
pet sit.
 • Dont give your dog the treat until they have done your command.

Warnings

• This is not something that happens right away for every dog. You need to practice
every day until he learns it and then every few days so he remembers it.
• Make sure everyone in the house uses the same signals.
• If your dog is just not getting it this time, don't push it. Stop before you both get
frustrated and try again tomorrow.
• Puppies generally have shorter attention spans than older dogs. Don't make your
little one too tired and bored! He'll thank you for it later.
Things You'll Need

Patience!!

Dog treats

• TONS of PATIENCE!!
Chapter- 6

How to Crate Train a Dog or Puppy

While some people view crate training as cruel and unnecessary, it's actually very
beneficial and less stressful to your dog. If done correctly, your dog will come to
appreciate their own space to relax, just as you will initially appreciate that the crate gives
your dog a safe place to relax (and gives you a break). In the future it will be a great
benefit that your dog has been crate trained if he needs surgery or will travel.
Furthermore, it serves as a great tool for housebreaking. Most likely, your dog will like
the crate if you are careful not push him too quickly.
Steps

1. Place the crate with a comfy blanket in shade or inside, nearby where you
will be relaxing for awhile and set a trail of treats leading into the back of the
crate.
2.

Allow your dog into the room and leave the crate door open while you relax.
Eventually (or in a few seconds) your dog will get the treats and explore the crate.
When you see him go in the crate, get up and put a few more treats in the back of
the crate. Repeat this a few times until he is unhesitatingly going in for the treats
and not rushing to escape the crate.

3. Say "kennel" and take your dog gently by the collar and toss a treat in the
crate. Most likely he will follow the treat into the crate. Gently block him from
leaving the crate with your body and feed him treats in a steady stream. Once he
relaxes and lies down, continue to feed him, but space out the treats a few seconds
apart. Slow your treats down to about every 10 seconds when he seems especially
calm. Let him out of the crate when he is nice and calm and take a break from
training.
4. Repeat the previous step, but this time instead of blocking with your body,
close the door to the crate.
5. Prepare a yummy chew toy (by filling a toy with peanut butter for example).
Say "kennel" just before grasping your dog's collar and walking him into the
crate. Once he is in the crate, give him the chew toy and close the door. Once he
 is engrossed in chewing, get up and walk around, occasionally going out of sight.
Release him from the crate before he finishes chewing (or before he wakes if he's
been dozing off) and only if he is calm.
6. Praise your dog while he is in the crate, but do not praise him as he is coming
out of his crate. This teaches him that being in the crate is good and pleasant,
while coming out is neutral. Additionally, do not make a big fuss while putting
him in or taking him out, so he will see it as no big deal.

Tips

• If you have a crate that has a removable top, remove it for steps 1-3, then put the
top on and repeat.
• Each time you leave your dog in his crate repeat the procedure in the step 4.
Eventually your dog should begin going in his crate by himself when you say
"kennel".
• If your dog should fuss in the crate you must ignore it (unless something is
physically wrong) and release him only when he is calm, otherwise he will learn
to fuss in order to be released.
• In case of accidents: Be sure to use a stain and odor remover so that your dog
does not eliminate in the same place. Remember - just because you cannot smell
anything, it does not mean that your dog can't!
• Leave soothing music or a TV on for your dog while he is in the crate during the
day.
• Feed him meals in the crate to help him further associate it with good things.
Remember to take your dog out to potty a short time after eating. Most dogs will
need to eliminate a short time after meals.
• Be sure to use a crate that is the right size. If the crate is too big, the dog can use a
corner to go to the bathroom and will not learn to leave the crate to relieve
himself. The crate should be big enough for the dog to stand, lay down, and turn
around. If you are starting with a puppy you may need a smaller crate and get a
larger one as the puppy grows.

Warnings

• Don't leave your dog in the crate for more than a few hours at a time (unless
overnight). You can gradually build the number of hours your dog can stay in the
crate to 8 hours maximum, but this process occurs at a rate of one hour per month
- a 2 month old puppy must have a break after 2 hours. A 6 month old should be
able to go 6 hours, but this is not hard and fast. You know your dog - watch for
signs of distress and do your best to relieve his problem before he makes a
mistake. Remember - sometimes you have those days, too, when you have to go
much more often than usual. He's an animal, and things may change for a living
thing every day. Be willing to accept some variations.
• Make sure there are no sharp edges or wire ends that can hurt the dog. Some dogs
with protuberant eyes, such as Pekingese, have been known to hurt their eyes on
sharp crate edges.
How to Clicker Train Your Dog

Clicker training is a science-based way to communicate with your pet that has been used
since the 1950's. It's easier to learn than standard command-based training. You can
clicker train any kind of animal, of any age. Puppies love it. Old dogs learn new tricks.
You can clicker-train cats, birds, and other pets as well. Here are some simple tips to get
you started.
Steps

1. Spend some time "loading" the clicker. Spend some time somewhere, and wait
until your pet has good behavior. (you don't want to reward chasing the cat!)
Stand with your pet and practice clicking and giving the dog a treat until the dog
recognizes that a click or whatever other sound marker you've chosen means a
reward is coming. You may need to have multiple "loading" sessions. Some
trainers recommend portioning out what your pet eats each day so that you do not
feed your pet too much. Try working with your pet before he/she's is fed. A full
pet may not be as interested in working for food. Eventually, the dog's mealtime
can become a session of rehearsing commands it already knows, or while teaching
new things.
2. Push and release the springy end of the clicker, making a two-toned click.
Then treat. Keep the treats small. Use a delicious treat at first: for a dog or cat,
little cubes of roast chicken, not a lump of kibble.
3. Click during the desired behavior, not after it is completed. The timing of the
click is crucial. Don't be dismayed if your pet stops the behavior when it hears the
click. The click ends the behavior. Give the treat after that; the timing of the treat
is not important.
4. Click when your dog or other pet does something you like. Begin with
something easy that the pet is likely to do on its own. (Ideas: sit; come toward
you; touch your hand with its nose; lift a foot; touch and follow a target object
such as a pencil or a spoon.)
5. Click once (in-out.) If you want to express special enthusiasm, increase the
number of treats, not the number of clicks.
6. Keep practice sessions short. Much more is learned in three sessions of five
minutes each than in an hour of boring repetition. You can get dramatic results,
and teach your pet many new things, by fitting a few clicks a day here and there in
your normal routine.
7. Fix bad behavior by clicking good behavior. Click the puppy for relieving itself
in the proper spot. Click for paws on the ground, not on the visitors. Instead of
scolding for making noise, click for silence. Cure leash-pulling by clicking and
treating those moments when the leash happens to go slack.
8. Click for voluntary (or accidental) movements toward your goal. You may
coax or lure the animal into a movement or position, but don't push, pull, or hold
it. Let the animal discover how to do the behavior on its own. If you need a leash
for safety's sake, put the handle over your wrist or tie it to your belt.
9. Don't wait for the "whole picture" or the perfect behavior. Click and treat for
small movements in the right direction. You want the dog to sit, and it starts to
crouch in back: click. You want it to come when called, and it takes a few steps
your way: click.
10. Keep raising your goal. As soon as you have a good response - when a dog, for
example, is voluntarily lying down, coming toward you, or sitting repeatedly -
start asking for more. Wait a few beats, until the dog stays down a little longer,
comes a little further, sits a little faster. Then click. This is called "shaping" a
behavior.
 11. When your animal has learned to do something for clicks, it will begin
showing you the behavior spontaneously, trying to get you to click. Now is the
time to begin offering a cue, such as a word or a hand signal. Start clicking for
that behavior if it happens during or after the cue. Start ignoring that behavior
when the cue wasn't given.
12. Don't order the animal around; clicker training is not command-based. If
your pet does not respond to a cue, it is not disobeying; it just hasn't learned the
cue completely. Find more ways to cue it and click it for the desired behavior. Try
working in a quieter, less distracting place for a while. If you have more than one
pet, separate them for training, and let them take turns.
13. Carry a clicker and "catch" cute behaviors like cocking the head, chasing the
tail, or holding up one foot. You can click for many different behaviors,
whenever you happen to notice them, without confusing your pet.
14. If you get mad, put the clicker away. Don't mix scoldings, leash-jerking, and
correction training with clicker training; you will lose the animal's confidence in
the clicker and perhaps in you.
15. If you are not making progress with a particular behavior, you are probably
clicking too late. Accurate timing is important. Get someone else to watch you,
and perhaps to click for you, a few times.
16. Above all, have fun. Clicker-training is a wonderful way to enrich your
relationship with any learner.

Tips

• It might help if you think of your clicker as a tiny camera. Click to "take a
picture" of the behavior you want. Just like taking a real picture, timing is
important. Take your picture too soon and you have a picture of a dog standing,
take a picture too late and you have a picture of a dog walking away. But, take the
 picture just right and you have a picture of a dog with his butt on the ground
sitting. Just the behavior you were looking for.
• A more convenient method is to choose a "reward word" instead of a click from
the clicker. Don't use a word that will come up in casual praise (Good girl, what a
good puppy, etc). Instead, use a word that most people recognize as good, but
don't use in conversation (e.g. bravo, excellent) or a praise word from another
language (Latin: bene; Spanish: bueno; etc).

Warnings

• Don't click the clicker just randomly. The dog will get used to the sound and
won't recognize it as a reward.
Chapter- 7

How to Teach a Pup to Be a Watch Dog

Watchdog pup

Even the smallest or youngest dog can be trained to be a watchdog. They might not scare
anyone with their little bark, but they can alert you to possible trouble.

Steps

Tell your dog "watch them" then they will be the perfect baby sitter

Teaching the "Speak" Command

Your puppy will need to know when to bark on cue to prevent nuisance barking. Read
this and then go to the watch dog steps.
 1. Have your puppy sit behind a metal puppy fence. Sit yourself on the other
side.
2. Take out your dog favorite treat, toy etc.
3. Squeak the toy or shake the treat. The puppy will start trying to get to it.
4. Say in an excited voice "Fifi, Fifi (your dogs name)" while shaking the treat.
5. When your dog gets excited enough, he will eventually bark or whine.
6. When your dog finally barks or whines, say "SPEAK!" excitedly. Give him
the treat/toy and praise.
7. Repeat this over and over again, your dog will eventually catch on.

Tips

• Neighbors may find the pup annoying if they're kept in a garden where it barks at
them regularly. Consider asking your neighbor if they want their family to meet
and befriend the pup so that it doesn't bark at them. Try to do this before they
complain!

Warnings

• A dog can tell what a person's nature is. They may attack people with a
pessimistic attitude or someone who means harm to you.
• An alert dog is not a protection dog. True protection training requires an
experienced professional. A well-trained, sound protection dog protects at the
direction of the handler, making them safe to live with.
• An alert dog is not a protection dog and cannot be expected or asked to protect
self or property.
• Alert dogs are often the target of violence. Keep your puppy safe and teach it to
refuse food laying on the ground.
• Alert dogs are also the subject of noise violations. Know the laws before you
train.
Chapter- 8

How to Train a Guard Dog

Guard dogs can be a good option for homeowners who wish to protect their property. In
most cases, simply having a dog that barks at strangers and alerts you of potentially
dangerous situations is enough when it comes to home security. However, some canines
can be much more aggressive when it comes to protecting their territory and masters. In
this situation, it is particularly important to properly train a guard dog.
Steps

1. Teach the animal basic obedience skills, establishing yourself as a master.

The dog should be able to carryout basic commands, such as sit, stay, stop, no,
come and walk on a leash. Use positive reinforcement to encourage proper
behavior while ignoring wrong behaviors.
2. Socialize your dog. In order for a dog to determine when a threatening person or
event appears, it must become acquainted with typical scenarios in everyday life.
o Introduce the animal to all family members (including other pets) and
friends that visit frequently.
o Expose the canine to household noises (e.g., lawn mower, vacuum, traffic
and storms).
o Allow the pet to see you in different situations, such as carrying an
umbrella, with a hat or with glasses).
3. Encourage the pet to bark or notify you when strangers arrive.
o Reward the dog for barking at strangers that arrive at the home. A treat or
praise will reinforce the behavior.
o Tell the dog "no" or "stop" if he barks at people that were included during
the socialization period.
o Ask friends or family, with whom the dog is not familiar, to make noises
and knock on windows and doors at your home. Praise the dog's alertness
and barking.
 4. Create boundaries for the canine. The dog should only protect your property.
Creating boundaries will prevent the animal from attacking people outside of your
land.
o Walk the dog around your property boundaries daily. Command it to come
back if it strays from the area.
o Install an underground or invisible fencing system if the dog continues to
leave your property. Once the boundaries have been established, the fence
may be removed.
5. Prevent the dog from taking food from other people. This is an important step
in training because burglars often try to distract dogs with food.
o Choose one person to be the main caregiver when it comes to feeding the
animal.
o Never allow friends and family outside of the home to give the dog food
or treats.
6. Seek the help of a professional canine training center if you wish to train a
guard dog beyond barking. It is not wise to attempt to teach a dog to bite or
attack without the help of a canine trainer.

Tips

• Place a "beware of dog" sign on your property. This will deter burglars as well as
help protect you if a lawsuit occurs from your dog biting or attacking a person.
Warnings

• It is important to use extreme caution when a guard dog is around children. Never
leave children unsupervised with the dog.

How to Stop a Dog from Digging

Dogs dig for many reasons including:

• Inherent behavior for hiding food and other reasons.

• Because they are bored.
• Because they are going after a rodent in the ground
• It feels physically good to them.
• To find moisture or a cooler area.

In this we'll look at some of the ways you can keep your dog from digging.
Steps

1. Enroll yourself and your dog in a basic training class. Basic training teaches
your dog to:
o See you as an 'Alpha' of your dog. Humans are humans, not dogs. You are
not the leader of their pack. That is an outdated notion from the late
80's/early 90's that modern trainers worked very hard to dismantle and
dismiss, which, unfortunately, has recently resurfaced. They have a leader
in their pack and it is one of the other dogs. You are more like an 'Alpha'
to your dog.
o Obey basic commands such as "Stop!", "Sit!", etc.
2. Take away the boredom. Dogs often dig because they are bored. Your dog may
be bored if he stares at fences for a long time, whines, or engages in playful or
'hyperactive' behavior, including digging holes. To stop your dog being bored:
o Entertain him with toys and play time.
o Exercise your dog vigorously with walks or runs.
3. Construct a sandbox. A sandbox is an area of your yard where it is OK for the
dog to dig.
o Fence the sandbox and fill it with freshly tilled earth.
o Bury treats and smelly things in the sandbox to encourage your dog's use.
4.
Install on slant, secure with ties, and cover.

It really worked

Create discouragement. Your dog will only respond to the hole he has just dug
if you punish him yourself. So you must find ways to "punish' your dog for the act
of digging while you are not around.
 Place a sprinkler on a hose in the area the dog digs. While in the act of
o
digging, turn on the sprinkler.
o Bury a small balloon in the dog's hole and cover it with a layer of dirt. The
unpleasant surprise when the dog pops the balloon will take away some of
the dog's digging pleasure.
o Bury chicken wire just under the surface of the dirt. The wire on the dog's
feet will feel bad to him. This usually works best near the fence.
o Try putting cayenne pepper in his holes. Some dogs like the flavor of hot
pepper, so don't waste too much on this tip.
o Some dogs hate the smell of their own feces. Putting some of your dog's
own feces in the hole will make it less pleasurable for him. However, there
are many dogs who eat their poop and will gladly see this as you burying
their favorite treat. It depends on the dog.
5. Remove temptation
o Dogs enjoy digging in freshly tilled earth. If you are working in your
garden, remove fresh dirt from your dog's reach with a fence or covering.
o Go out and dig up any bones or other things your dog has buried. Do not
let the dog see you do this. Fill the hole back in.
o Keep your garden clean.

 Remove attractive smells.

 Deal with any rodent or other small mammal problem.
o If you do gardening, do not let your dog see you till or dig in the earth, as
this would simply be positive reinforcement.

Tips

• Punishing dogs directly is usually considered ineffective. In her seminal book No

Bad Dogs Barbara Woodhouse explains why. At best, punishing your dog for
digging holes by yelling, slapping, or hitting him will only keep him from digging
that hole while you are around.
• Buy and read good books on dog training and behavior. Forget the television stars
and go for the real trainers whose books have stood the test of time. Two good
books to consider are:
o The Art of Raising a Puppy by The Monks of New Skete ISBN
0316578398
o No Bad Dogs by Barbara Woodhouse ISBN 0671541854
• If you use the dog feces method, use your dog's own feces; the waste from
another dog will not work.
• Prevent escapes by folding 3 feet wide chicken wire fence and attaching it to the
fence along the ground (with 2 feet of the fencing on the ground). The grass will
grow into it and (hopefully) prevent an escapee.
• Cement also works well to fill holes near the fence (pour in dry, then add water to
cement-filled hole, do not allow dog in yard while it is hardening).
 • Wire electric fence (hooked to an electric fence box, purchased at a farm store)
can be added to most kind of dog fence, approximately 7 inches from the ground,
to prevent dogs from going near the fence to dig. They only have to touch it once.

Warnings

• Some breeds actually enjoy digging (it has nothing to do with obedience or
boredom). Research breed characteristics before buying a dog. If you cannot
tolerate digging in an otherwise happy dog, do not buy that kind of dog. Some
primitive-type breeds who love to dig for the joy of digging include Australian
Cattle Dogs and the Portuguese Podengo Medio (new to America). Also, most
terriers love digging and should be allowed to do so, as long as they cannot
escape.
• Many dogs fail to use only the sandbox (in the sandbox method).
Chapter- 9

How to Choose an Online Dog Training

Course

Wondering what type of course to take for dog training.

Steps

1. Look at each course and comments of the course that are online. How positive
are they about the course content
2. View the course content to ensure it is not too simple or too complicated
3. Contact the course providers and ask what you will get at the end of the
course, how many people each year take the course and what memberships it
will help for.
4. You want a course that is recommended by Dog Training organisations like
IAABC, IACP and APDTNZ. Having done a course recommended by these
organisations ensures that you are on the right track for dog training.
5. Don't choose a course based on price. Some courses look great and are very
cheap but you don't get anything worthwhile at the end.

How to Become a Seeing Eye Dog Trainer

Seeing-eye dog trainers perform their job because they have a passion for animals and
helping others. The level of training to become a seeing-eye dog trainer is high and the
compensation is often low. A trainer is required to work with the puppy for
approximately 1 year, then hand the trained dog over to a person in need of its services.
The separation can be painful for the trainer, but knowing their training is helping a blind
person to gain independence can be a great reward.

Steps

1. Attend college and earn a degree related to animals, such as zoology.

Although it is not dog training specifically, it helps to understand the anatomical,
biological and physiological side of animals when training them. It will also give
you an edge on the competition when applying for a dog training position.
2. Volunteer at an animal shelter or veterinary hospital to gain experience
working with animals and people. As a seeing-eye dog trainer, you must be able
to work compatibly with both, as you are training the dog to interact appropriately
with people. Volunteer experience also looks good to an employer on an
application, as it shows you are passionate enough about the field to work for free.
3. Seek employment working with dogs directly. If possible, try to get into a dog
training position, even if it just through your local pet store. You may need to start
in a different position such as cleaning obedience schools, or working as a clerk,
then work your way up, as training positions can be hard to acquire.
4. Apply for a job at a guide dog school after gaining some experience working
with or around animals. Once again, you may need to start in a different
position and work your way to becoming a trainer. If you are already working for
the school, you have a better opportunity to earn an interview should an
apprenticeship position become available.
 5. Complete the guide dog training program. This apprenticeship position can
take anywhere from 2 to 4 years to complete, depending upon the school and its
requirements of dog trainers. You must be in good physical shape to complete the
program, as it requires a lot of physical agility and stamina. It is recommended to
eat right and exercise regularly.
6. Become certified as a seeing-eye dog trainer. This requires passing a written
test. Once certified, you must maintain your certification by completing
continuing education classes and passing a written exam when required to do so.
7. Turn in applications for a position as a seeing-eye dog trainer. Depending
upon the company you are applying for, you may also have to pass the written test
they issue to screen for the best candidates. It may take several tries to get a job,
as the competition is tough.

Tips

• Attend as many workshops as you can on dog training. Methods and techniques
are constantly changing, often times for the better. Try to remain current on this
information.

Warnings

• Before learning how to become a seeing-eye dog trainer, make sure that you are
capable of giving up an animal that you have bonded with. This can be a very
difficult thing for many people to do.
Chapter- 10

How to Train Your Dog for a Dog Show

Do you think your dog has what it takes to be a show dog? If you can imagine your
precious pooch winning a championship, then you can always hire a handler to show
your dog for you, but the rewards and experience of handling your own dog may make it
worth your while. However, before your dog can trot to success, it needs to be trained for
the stage in order to steal the audience.

Steps

1. Enter your dog into your local ring craft class. This will help you train your
dog for a show. Although this is not necessary, it is HIGHLY recommended.
2.

Teach your dog to “stack” or stand squarely and still. Some breeds are free
stacked, with the handler standing in front of them while the dog watches the
handler and stands still and alert. Other breeds are “hand stacked” with each leg
manually placed in position while the handler stands or kneels close to them.
Figure out which one you need to do and be consistent in training.

o Sometimes with wiggly dogs it’s easier to stack them on blocks, boards or
bricks that are elevated a few inches off the ground so the dog learns to
trust where you set his feet and feels secure with your placement, but if he
moves his feet on his own he becomes unbalanced.
o Never scold, but be firm. You want the stacking experience to be positive
and consistent but not scary for your dog.
o Front legs should be straight (or as straight as is allowed for your breed)
and should be under the shoulder blades. Rear legs should be vertical from
the hock down (for most breeds, most notably different is the German
Shepherd Dog, who has a distinctive stack).
o Feet should be facing forward, unless contraindicated for your breed.
3.

Work on your dog's expression. You want him to also look alert and happy
when he is stacked. Most breeds need to have their attention on the handler and
the judge, and have their ears perked and their eyes on your hand or straight
ahead. To do this you have two controls, the lead/collar and the bait.

o The bait is your dog’s treats, and most puppies are started with nibbling on
bait while the bait is held at the level where the head and neck are high
and correct. As your dog gets used to holding his head here, then try
pulling the bait away quickly to get his attention and focus on the bait.
o Also, as he gets used to focusing on the bait, you can use the collar to help
keep his head still, by putting the collar up close behind their ears and
holding it up firmly, but not so high as to string him up and stretch his
neck up too much.
4.
 Practice gaiting. Gaiting is moving your dog in a way to allow the judge to see
their movement and structure. The correct gait is a trot (with few exceptions).

o A trotting dog’s right front leg and left back leg move forward at the same
time, then the left front with the right back. If the dog is moving the front
and back leg on the same side of his body together, this is pacing. Pacing
is incorrect (except for the Old English Sheepdog) and should be avoided.
Trotting is the correct pace because it shows the dog’s true structure the
best. So, depending on the size of your dog, you will need to adjust your
pace so that dog is trotting at the correct speed. The best way to do this is
practice. You’ll want to hold your whole lead in your left hand and the
dog will trot on your left side.
o Start by getting your dog’s attention and take a few steps forward before
setting your pace. Trot your dog in a straight line, approximately 30-40
feet then turn around and trot him back. Once you return to the spot that
you started, get your dog’s attention and try to get him to free-stack as best
you can and focus on the treat that you have in your right hand. That is a
“Down and Back,” one of the foundations of how your dog will be
evaluated in the ring. Oftentimes, when you show, you’ll only be asked to
take your dog down and back, and then around the ring to the end of the
line.
5.
 Find a kennel club or practice group in your area and try to go to group
classes to get you dog used to being in a show ring with other dogs. If you
can’t find classes, look for local dog shows that have matches. Matches are
informal fun shows that are usually judged by club members or aspiring judges
and is great practice for your dog.

6.
Practice and have other people act as the judge and “go over” or examine
your dog. They will especially need to examine your dog’s teeth and ears, as
many dogs don’t like that, and also ask him to pick up feet and look at them, lift
the tail (if your dog has one) and feel the testicles if applicable. These are all
things the dog will need to be used to strangers doing to him if he’s to be a show
dog.
Tips

• If possible, practice stacking and baiting in front of a mirror so you can see your
dog from the judge’s perspective.
• Watch as many handlers showing their dogs as you can, watch televised dog
shows and also go to as many shows in person as possible. See how your breed is
shown specifically and look for the fine nuances that make your breed unique.
Watch professionals as they show all breeds and see what sets them apart in how
they handle their dogs.
• Check the rules and regulations of the kennel club, and the registering body of the
shows you are entering to familiarize yourself with the requirements.
• For training, don't think you can just use a regular nylon or leather collar and
leash. You need to use real conformation leads or your dog will fail in the show
ring. Also, you need to train with the correct leads or your dog will not be
comfortable in them in the show. There are two main types of leads you can use:
o Martingales leads are easy to find, and the dogs love them! This is because
they are comfortable, and these leads help to train your dog to keep its
head held up high while showing judge's their gait, and while stacking.
These can come in chain or nylon varieties, don't confuse the chain variety
with the chain lead. This is mostly used on puppies or small dogs, like
miniature dachshunds, but some larger dogs still use them. On puppies,
only use nylon martingales until they are at least 8 months old.
o The other commonly used lead is the chain and show lead. This is not as
elegant as the martingale, but many handlers use this on larger, boxer
breeds such as the Rottweiler. These also help your dog to keep its head
held high, and to not run away in the ring. The chain comes in three
colors. These are silver, gold, and copper. The lead is very short and is
sold separately. The lead can come in as many colors as the martingale.
• It is easier on puppies if you use the martingale, and if so desired, when the puppy
is at least 8 months old you can only start training it to use the chain.
Warnings

• Make sure your dog is not spayed or neutered, because if so the dog cannot
compete.
• Even if you think your dog has what it takes to be a championship conformation
dog, don't always count on it.
• Make sure you bring your dog's registration papers (for the kennel club), its
vaccination papers, and its pedigree papers.
• Female dogs in heat can not preform in the ring
Chapter- 11

Police Dog

Police dog during training exercise

Swedish German Shepherds in action during demonstrations in Stockholm on National
Day 2007
Military police dog of the Feldjäger of the German Army
A Belgian Malinois of a police K9 unit
 Police badge of a New York K9 officer

A police dog is a dog that is trained specifically to assist police and other law-
enforcement personnel in their work. Police dogs are often referred to as "K9s", which is
a homophone of canine. One commonly used breed is the German Shepherd, although
now Belgian Malinois are popular K9s to use. In many jurisdictions the intentional
injuring or killing of a police dog is a felony, subjecting the perpetrator to harsher
penalties than those in the statutes embodied in local animal cruelty laws, just as an
assault on a human police officer is often a more serious offense than the same assault on
a non-officer. A growing number of law-enforcement organizations outfit dogs with
ballistic vests, and some even go so far as to make the dogs sworn officers, with their
own police badges and IDs. Furthermore, a police dog killed in the line of duty is often
given a full police funeral.

Purpose and function

Roles police dogs fill include:

• Public order enforcement dog - The traditional image of a police dog is one
used to enforce public order by chasing and holding suspects, or detaining
suspects by the threat of being released, either by direct apprehension or a method
known as Bark and Hold. German Shepherd Dogs and Belgian Malinois are most
commonly used because of their availability; however other dog breeds have also
contributed, such as Dutch Shepherds, Rottweilers, Boxers, Doberman Pinschers,
 Giant Schnauzers, American Pit Bull Terriers, and American Staffordshire
Terriers.
• Search and rescue dog (SAR) - This dog is used to locate suspects or find missing
persons or objects. Bloodhounds are often used for this task.
• Detection dog or explosive-sniffing dog - Some dogs are used to detect illicit
substances such as drugs or explosives which may be carried on a person in their
effects. In many countries, Beagles are used in airports to sniff the baggage for
items that are not permitted; due to their friendly nature and appearance, the
Beagle does not worry most passengers. Some dogs also are naturally able to sniff
out propane leaks and may be used in the future. The Bouvier des Flandres is one
breed that is able to do this. One pet Bouvier sniffed out a propane leak in the
owner's grill.
• Cadaver dogs - Some dogs are trained in detecting the odor of decomposing
bodies. Dogs' noses are so sensitive that they are even capable of detecting bodies
that are under running water Pioneering work was done by Dr. Debra Komar
(University of Alberta) in Association with the RCMP Civilian Search Dog
Association in this area. The result was the development of training techniques
that resulted in near 100% accuracy rates. Her research has been published in the
Journal of Forensic Anthropology.

Popular breeds

• Argentine Dogo (protect the officer, attack dog, sniff out bombs, sniff out drugs,
sniff out food)
• German Shepherd (protect the officer, attack dog, ground based tracking and air
based tracking, locating human remains, locating drugs, locating EODs, locating
evidence)
• Dutch Shepherd (protect the officer, attack dog)
• Belgian Malinois (protect the officer, attack dog, locating EODs)
• Boxer (protect the officer, attack dog)
• Labrador Retriever (sniff out bombs, sniff out drugs)
• Doberman Pinscher (protect the officer, attack dog)
• Springer Spaniel (sniff out bombs, sniff out drugs)
• Bloodhound (Odor Specific ID, trackings, sniff out bombs, sniff out drugs,
locating evidence)
• Beagle (sniff out bombs, sniff out drugs, sniff out food)
• Rottweiler (protect the officer, attack dog)
• Giant Schnauzer (protect the officer, attack dog)

Retirement

Police dogs are retired if they become injured or pregnant, are raising puppies, or are too
old or sick to continue working.
Usage by country
Continental Europe overview

Official use of police dogs was recognized as being of value on the European Continent
as early as 1859, with the Belgium Police in Ghent using dogs to officially patrol with the
night shift.

Germany, France, Austria and Hungary soon followed with dogs becoming an accepted
part of the official police establishment. The dogs employed at this time were hard
aggressive animals that could inspire fear, protect their handler against attackers and be
prepared to tackle courageously anyone found lurking in the ill-lit streets or open spaces.
The breeds most commonly used by the end of the nineteenth century in these countries
were Belgian & German Shepherds, Boxers, Dobermans and Airedales (imported from
England).

The first major step forward in the development of the modern police dog came in the
1890s in Germany where serious attempts had been made to introduce recognised
training programmes for the dogs purchased by the police, army & customs authorities.
Rapid progress was made in the field of dog training with the development of the German
Shepherd Dog as a breed and the formation on the 22nd of April 1899 of the Verein für
Deutsche Schäferhunde or SV (The German Shepherd Dog Society) . In 1903 the SV
staged civilian police dog trials that encompassed control, criminal work and nose work
exercises. The police authorities were impressed but were not convinced that the
intensive efforts expended on training and the costs involved were justified by the results.
The primary object of the police dog at this time was still seen as that of deterrent.

In the UK the attitude was very much the same; dogs were considered beneficial as long
as they did not cost money or require special training, an attitude that still appears to be
prevalent in many police departments around the world today. In 1914 official authority
was granted for 172 constables in the Metropolitan (London) Police to take their own
dogs on patrol with them, a motley crew of sheepdogs, retrievers, collies, terriers,
spaniels, mongrels and even one Pomeranian.

In 1908, the North Eastern Railway police who used Airedales to put a stop to theft from
the docks in Hull formed the first recognised UK Police Dog Section. By 1910 the British
Transport Commission Police had taken over, experimenting with other breeds such as
Labradors, Dobermans and finally, the German Shepherd or Alsatian as it was then
known.

After the 1914 -1918 war, despite the success of the transport police dogs the police
authorities in the UK continued to show a lack of interest in the use of dogs as an aid to
police work. On the continent, however, dogs were being used for a variety of purposes
with organised dog training centres being set up in various locations. The impressive
results being obtained on the continent could not be ignored forever, and in 1934 a
committee was set up to investigate the whole question surrounding the use of police
dogs in the UK. An interesting excerpt from The Times dated 15 January 1938 gives an
interesting insight into the thinking of senior police officers of the time in regard to the
use of dogs. Colonel Hoel Llewellyn, Chief Constable of Wiltshire was quoted as
follows:

"A good dog with a night duty man is as sound a proposition as you can get. The dog
hears what the constable does not, gives him notice of anyone in the vicinity, guards his
master's bicycle to the death, and remains mute unless roused. He is easily trained and
will go home when told to do so with a message in his collar".

Bearing in mind that this was a statement from a pro-dog man of the times, is it any
wonder that the authorities failed to understand the true worth of the dog in the role of
law enforcement for a number of years to come.

In order to establish the best breed to be employed as a police service dog, the 1934
committee set up an experimental Home Office dog training school in Washwater, near
Newbury, adjoining Lord Carnarvon's Highclere Estate. It concluded that a multi-purpose
dog, trained to carry out all disciplines, was not possible, and that tracking and other
work would have to be divided. The committee reported in 1937 that the experiments at
the dog training school showed that the best breed of dog for following a scent was the
bloodhound, and the best breed of dog for general patrol purposes was the Labrador.
Experiments had been done in crossing Fell Hounds to Labradors and Otter Hounds to
Bloodhounds, but both sets of crosses left something to be desired. As a result of the
committee's conclusions, recommendations were made that Chief Constables 'consider'
the use of dogs in police work, and it was once again left to the individual chief police
officer to decide the worth of employing dogs in his respective police force. In 1938 two
specially trained black Labradors were introduced into the Metropolitan Police as general
patrol or 'utility' dogs, however, they were transferred in 1940 to the Cheshire
Constabulary. With the outbreak of the Second World War, any further efforts to
introduce dogs into a policing role in the UK were abandoned.

The end of the Second World War brought a crime wave to the shores of the UK,
generally attributed to the presence of returning servicemen. It also brought the
appointment of Chief Constable of the Surrey Constabulary to Sir Joseph Simpson
K.B.E., a man who had a lifelong interest in gundogs and who saw clearer than most the
possibilities of adapting the natural abilities and qualities of the dog to the specialist
requirements of the police service. By good fortune, the Surrey Constabulary also
employed an officer who had taken part in many of the unrewarding experiments to try
and prove the value of the trained dog in police work; his name was Sergeant Harry
Darbyshire.

This liaison set in motion the first positive effort to convince the Home Office and Police
Forces throughout the UK of the true worth of a well-trained dog. With Darbyshire's
enthusiasm and idea's and Simpson leadership and influence, the Surrey police
headquarters at Mountbrown in Guildford became the epicentre of breeding and training
of the modern police dog. Within a short space of time the Surrey police dogs were
touring the country giving demonstrations to other police forces, whilst at the same time,
Sir Joseph Simpson was bringing his influence to bear on the Kennel Club and other
senior police officers. Slowly, they began to understand and appreciate the potential value
of the police service dog.

After a careful study of the work carried out by Harry Darbyshire, Sir Joseph Simpson
reached a number of important conclusions on which further developments and progress
were to be based. The most far-reaching of these was to discard the accepted notion that
all police dogs should be divided into two classes, tracking dogs and criminal work patrol
dogs. The evidence pointed to the fact that some breeds of dogs were capable of being
trained to carry out both disciplines. He also concluded that there should be a more
rigorous selection process when accepting dogs for police work, the first step towards the
notion that the police service should breed their own animals in an attempt to produce the
ideal police dog.

1946 also saw the formation of a small dog section within the Metropolitan Police, an
important event in itself as the Metropolitan Police, serving the capital city and with the
largest deployment of manpower has always been an influential component in the
policing tactics of the UK as a whole. Six Labradors were purchased from Yorkshire
farmers and deployed in South London, quickly proving their worth when on their first
night on patrol they were used in the arrest of two American servicemen after a purse
snatch. In 1948 a new breed of police dog was used on the streets of London for the first
time, the Alsatian Wolf Dog, later to be known as the Alsatian or German Shepherd Dog
had arrived. The first of this breed in London was called 'Smokey' and such was the
impression that he made, that a further twelve Alsatians together with another seven
Labradors were purchased. The Metropolitan Police Dog Section was growing so rapidly
that a central dog training school was established at Imber Court and by 1950 the total
number of trained dogs in the force numbered 90.

The popularity of the police dog was being echoed all over the UK with police forces
both large and small employing dogs and handlers on their strength and setting up dog
training schools to cater for the ever increasing number of dogs being used.

The value of the police dog has been recognised by all to such an extent that there are
over 2500 police dogs employed amongst the various police forces in the UK with the
German Shepherd still the most popular breed for general purpose work with the Belgian
Shepherd Malinois catching up fast, proven when a Belgian Malinois female called
Metpol Kairo Demi bred by Steve Dean of the Metropolitan Police, handled by PC
Graham Clarke won the 2008 National Police Dog Trials with the highest score ever
recorded.

All British police dogs, irrespective of the discipline they are trained in, must be licensed
to work operationally. To obtain the license they have to pass a test at the completion of
their training, and then again every year until they retire, which is usually at about the age
of 8 when the majority settle into a life as a family pet with their handler. The standards
required to become operational are laid down by the Association of Chief Police Officers
(ACPO) sub-committee on police dogs and are reviewed on a regular basis to ensure that
training and licensing reflects the most appropriate methods & standards.

Many British police services now source the majority of their replacement dogs from
within specialized police dog breeding programs designed to ensure that the dogs are
bred with strong working ethics & health as a priority. The Metropolitan Police has the
largest police dog breeding program in the UK supplying not only the capital city,
London, but many other parts of the UK & the world with police service dogs.

Belgium

The Belgian Canine Support Group is part of the country's federal police. It has 35 dog
teams. Some dogs are trained to detect drugs, human remains, hormones or fire
accelerants. About a third are tracker dogs trained to find or identify living people. These
teams are often deployed to earthquake areas to locate people trapped in collapsed
buildings. The federal police’s explosive detector dogs are attached to the Federal Police
Special Units.

Netherlands

The Dutch Mounted Police and Police Dog Service (DLHP) is part of the Korps
landelijke politiediensten (KLPD; National Police Services Agency) and supports other
units with horse patrols and specially trained dogs. The DLHP’s dogs are trained to
recognize a single specific scent. They specialize in identifying scents (identifying the
scent shared by an object and a person), narcotics, explosives and firearms, detecting
human remains, locating drowning people and fire accelerants.

The KLPD is just one of the 26 police regions in the Netherlands. Every other region has
its own K9-unit. For example, the K9-unit of the regional police Amsterdam-Amstelland
has 24 patroldog handlers and 6 specialdog handlers and 4 instructors. The unit has 24
patroldogs, 3 explosives/firearms dogs, 3 active narcotic dogs, 2 passive narcotic dogs, 2
scent identifying dogs, 1 crime scene dog and 1 USAR dog. They work on a 24/7 basis,
every shift (07:00-15:00 / 15:00-23:00 / 23:00-07:00hrs) has a minimum of 2 patroldog
handlers on patrol. The special dog handlers work only in the dayshift or after a call.

United Kingdom

Documented evidence exists from the Middle Ages showing that money was set aside in
towns and villages to pay for the upkeep of bloodhounds to be used by parish constables
to track down outlaws and criminals. In fact, during the reign of King Henry I, documents
showing the staffing levels of the Royal Palaces refer to the appointment of a constable
who, with the aid of a marshal, 'shall maintain the stables, kennels and mews, and be
responsible for protecting and policing the whole court'.

During the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, the forces of law and order were employed by
the Barons and landowners to protect their privileges. Restrictions were placed upon the
right to own a dog. Divided into three classes, small dogs, which were unlikely to be a
threat to hunting, were unrestricted. Dogs that had natural hunting instincts, such as
greyhounds and spaniels were barred altogether, and larger breeds were only allowed if
used for security purposes and if their claws were removed. Constables used these larger
breeds such as the bloodhounds more for their own protection than the ability to
apprehend villains. A point worthy of note is that the bloodhounds of those times were
described as “unreliable, bad-tempered and savage " but even then displayed an uncanny
ability to track through the marshes and bogs which bordered the highways of that time.

In Scotland bloodhounds became known as "Slough dogs" and it is from this name that
the word "Sleuth", usually applied to a detective, is derived. By the beginning of the
nineteenth century, people were leaving the rural areas to move into the larger cities and
towns. Large country estates were breaking down into smaller units, and with this change
came the decline in the popularity of the dog as a hunter and enforcer of the law. At about
this point in history, people of all classes began to treat their dogs as domestic pets rather
than working animals, and size and appearance became as important as temperament and
working ability.

The period of the Napoleonic Wars saw extreme outbreaks of violence and lawlessness in
England and the existing forces of law & order, the parish constables and the Bow Street
Runners were overwhelmed. As a result private associations were formed to help combat
crime. Night watchmen were employed to guard premises with many of these individuals
provided with firearms and dogs to protect themselves from the criminal elements. In
1829 Sir Robert Peel established London's Metropolitan Police, the first professional
body to police the whole metropolitan area. From 1835 onwards, police forces were set
up in the larger boroughs and cities, as well as in the counties, so that by the end of the
century, professional policemen were policing the whole country.

One of the first real attempts to use dogs to aid police in the detection of crime and the
apprehension of a criminal was in 1888 when two bloodhounds were used in a simple
tracking test set by the then Commissioner of the Metropolitan (London) Police, Sir
Charles Warren with a view to using them in the hunt for the Victorian murderer, Jack
the Ripper. The results were far from satisfactory, with one of the hounds biting the
Commissioner and both dogs later running off requiring a police search to find them.

USSR and successor states (Russia, Ukraine, etc.)

Police patrolling on foot have long sporadically used attack dogs, generally exceptionally
big German Shepherds, bred to weigh at least 35 kg and generally 40+ kg. These are kept
on a leash at all times and required to wear muzzles, removed only when needed to
pursue and detain suspects. They are trained to remain calm, docile, and unfazed by
crowds and noise, retaining a perfect calm on public transportation. Such dogs may react
to any and all stimuli only if ordered to do so. They are a common sight in cities and are
rarely if ever perceived as unnerving by the general public.
Crime scene investigation units and patrols seeking dangerous fugitives have also been
known to use dogs for tracking. Interestingly enough, these units also use German
Shepherds, which were chosen as the all-purpose police and army breed. These practices
have remained common in most of the Soviet Union's successor states. The police buy
the dogs in for £700 and after they have trained them they are worth £1200
Chapter- 12

Search and Rescue Dog

Red Cross border collie, Italy, 1909

The use of dogs in search and rescue (SAR) is a valuable component in responding to
law enforcement requests for missing people. Dedicated handlers and hard working, well-
trained dogs are required in search efforts to be effective in their task.

Search and rescue (SAR) dogs detect human scent. Although the exact processes are still
researched, it may include skin rafts (scent-carrying skin cells that drop off living humans
at a rate of about 40,000 cells per minute), evaporated perspiration, respiratory gases, or
decomposition gases released by bacterial action on human skin or tissues.
Search and rescue dogs are typically worked by a small team on foot, but can be worked
from horseback.

Types

SAR dog at World Trade Center, New York, USA on 9/11/2001

From their training and experience, search and rescue dogs can be classified broadly as
either airscenting dogs or trailing (and tracking) dogs. They also can be classified
according to whether they "scent discriminate", and under what conditions they can work.
Scent discriminating dogs have proven their ability to alert only on the scent of an
individual person, after being given a sample of that person's scent. Non-scent
discriminating dogs alert on or follow any scent of a given type, such as any human scent
or any cadaver scent. SAR dogs can be trained specifically for rubble searches, for water
searches, and for avalanche searches.
Airscenting

Airscenting dog used for detection

Airscenting dogs primarily use airborne human scent to hone in on subjects, whereas
trailing dogs rely on scent of the specific subject. Airscenting dogs typically work off-
lead, are non-scent discriminating (e.g., locate scent from any human as opposed to a
specific person), and cover large areas of terrain. These dogs are trained to follow
diffused or wind-borne scent back to its source, return to the handler and indicate contact
with the subject, and then lead the handler back to the subject. Handler technique, terrain,
environment (vegetation), and atmospheric conditions (wind speed and direction,
temperature, humidity, and sky conditions) determine the area covered by airscenting
dogs, although a typical search area may be 40-160 acres and scent sources can be
detected from a distance of 1/4 mile or more. Although other breeds can be trained for
airscenting, the prototypical airscenting dog is a herding (e.g., German or Belgian
shepherds, Border Collies) or sporting (e.g., Golden or Labrador retrievers) breed that has
a reputation for working closely and in coordination with a human handler.

Trailing and tracking

Trailing and Tracking dogs are quite similar. Tracking dogs will typically work on lead
and will mostly have their nose to the track. A good tracking dog will be able to work
through a variety of terrain as well as successfully maneuver turns and "double backs"
that a subject might take. A trailing dog on the other hand will use tracking techniques
but will also have his/her head up using some of the air scent techniques to find the
subject. Trailing dogs will work on and off lead, and trailing dogs will venture off the
actual path that a subject took should a scent pool be discovered. This is not to be
considered an error by the dog, as they are following scent and working to get to the
source. It is a common misperception that only German Shepherds, Dobermans and the
Bloodhounds do this type of work. Actually all dogs are capable of tracking and trailing,
however the larger, sport, hound, working and herding breeds tend to be used more often
simply for their adaptability in various terrain.

Variations

In addition to these types of dogs, some teams cross train dogs in both trailing and
airscenting and use them as scent specific "area search dogs". Typically these dogs are
worked in an area that an airscent dog would work, but are capable of ignoring other
search teams and other people in or near the assigned search area. When deployed this
way, these airscenting dogs require a scent article as does a trailing dog.

Applications

Avalanche search dog

Specific applications for SAR dogs include wilderness, disaster, cadaver, avalanche, and
drowning search and rescue or recovery.

In wilderness SAR applications, airscenting dogs can be deployed to high-probability

areas (places where the subject may be or where the subject's scent may collect, such as
in drainages in the early morning) whereas tracking/trailing dogs can be deployed from
the subject's last known point (LKP) or the site of a discovered clue. Handlers must be
capable of bush navigation, wilderness survival techniques, and be self-sufficient. The
dogs must be capable of working for 4–8 hours without distraction (e.g., by wildlife).

Disaster dogs are used to locate victims of catastrophic or mass-casualty events (e.g.,
earthquakes, landslides, building collapses, aviation incidents). Many disaster dogs in the
US are trained to meet the Federal Emergency Management Agency K9 standards for
domestic or international deployment; advanced agility and off-lead training are
prerequisites reflecting the nature of these dogs' application. Disaster dogs rely primarily
on airscent, and may be limited in mass-casualty events by their inability to differentiate
between survivors and recently-deceased victims.

Human Remains Detection (HRD) or cadaver dogs are used to locate the remains of
deceased victims. Depending on the nature of the search, these dogs may work off-lead
(e.g., to search a large area for buried remains) or on-lead (to recover clues from a crime
scene). Airscenting and tracking/trailing dogs are often cross-trained as cadaver dogs,
although the scent the dog detects is clearly of a different nature than that detected for
live or recently-deceased subjects. Cadaver dogs can locate entire bodies (including those
buried or submerged), decomposed bodies, body fragments (including blood, tissues,
hair, and bones), or skeletal remains; the capability of the dog is dependent upon its
training.

In the winter of 1997 through to the spring of 1998 Dr. Deb Komar of the University of
Alberta, Canada conducted a study 'The use of cadaver dogs in cases of advanced
decomposition: A field study in adverse recovery scenarios and animal vs human scent
discrimination'. Dr. Komar worked with cadaver dog teams from the RCMP Civilian
Search Dog Program now the Canadian Search Dog Association
(http://www.canadiansearchdogs.com). This study showed the accuracy rates of cadaver
dogs in moderate to adverse winter weather conditions, and also the dogs' capabilities to
discriminate between animal and human remains. It indicated that an accuracy rate near
100% can be achieved through careful and directed training. Her work has been
published in the Journal of Forensic Anthropology. Of key importance was the materials
used in training as the artificial scents available proved significantly different as
compared to biological tissue containing bacteria, etc.

Avalanche dogs work similarly to airscenting, disaster, or cadaver dogs, and must be able
to rapidly transition from a wilderness SAR-airscenting scenario to a disaster scenario
focused on pinpointing the subject's location.
Training

A SAR dog training event for disaster situations

Training is a rigorous, time-consuming and comprehensive process for both the dog and
the handler. For the dog, training is best begun early in life (upon acquisition of a suitable
puppy, 8–10 weeks) for deployment of the dog in 12–18 months and retirement at 5–10
years, depending on the breed and individual dog. Obedience training is essential for the
dog's safety, order at staging areas, and to maintain professionalism in law enforcement
and the public audience. Socialization and handler-canine bonding are especially
important for airscenting dogs. Basic agility training is necessary, and advanced training
may pay off unexpectedly. Scent training should be initiated early using a variety of
methods and is often best accomplished by working with an experienced, well-
established local training group that has a track record of working with local or state law
enforcement.

For puppies, expect to train obedience, socialization, and agility daily 2-5 times for 10 up
to 60 minutes, and scent training 3-7 times per week for 5–30 minutes. As the dog's
abilities improve, daily obedience training continues, with impromptu or planned agility
and socialization sessions. Scent training frequency decreases (3-5 times/week) but
duration increases (20–60 minutes per session). Search-ready dogs need once-weekly
training sessions (4–8 hours) along with frequent focus sessions (5–60 minutes, 3 or more
times per week). Training outside the dog's primary focus (e.g., teaching an airscenting
dog scent discrimination, cadaver, or avalanche techniques) should be done cautiously
and only once the dog reliably performs in his primary training area.

Usually training starts as a game played with puppies, starting with simple reward-based
training (i.e. puppy is given a treat or allowed to play with a toy upon showing a simple
skill such as retrieving the toy and bringing it back to the trainer) and expanding outward
to "games" with more specific job skills (i.e. a well-loved toy is scented with the desired
scent to find; when puppy finds the toy, he/she is allowed to play with the toy; later, scent
and toy are separated so that puppy will search for the scent and is rewarded with the toy
afterward).

The "games" technique is particularly effective with dogs bred for retrieval (such as
hunting and sporting breeds) but has also been successful with working and herding dog
breeds. A more commonly used approach is to base training on herding, prey/pursuit, and
pack instincts: initial training for puppies usually involves run-away games where the
handler runs from the puppy and hides a short distance away. Basic instincts drive the
puppy to locate the subject, initially by sight but with the association of human scent. To
advance this training, the subject hides further away or longer times pass between
departure of the subject and release of the dog. The dog is forced to rely increasingly on
scent to locate the subject. Eventually, the dog can be transitioned to search without
seeing the subject depart by simply giving the command used when he's released during
basic runaway training. During all stages, finding the subject is reinforced by multiple
means (praise, play, or food treats).

For the handler (again, based on wilderness airscenting experience), wilderness

orienteering and wilderness self-sufficiency/survival are essential training skills. Dog
handling skills must also be learned during training (e.g., recognizing working v.
distracted behaviors, differentiating between alerts and finds, and positioning the dog to
maximize terrain coverage). Of primary importance is the handler's ability to understand
how the dog is working at any point in time, for which the handler will require detailed
and intimate understanding of scent theory. Advanced emergency medical skills are
usually not required but are advisable. There are rigorous studies of scent theory, lost
person behavior, canine search technique, and incident command in hard-to-find
publications by William (Bill) Syrotuck. Due to the level of physical exertion required at
times, the top end SAR organizations may require difficult physical standardized testing.
This ensures that the handler is able to cope with the ever changing situations presented
to them.

Airscenting dogs are trained to find (i.e., follow human scent to its source, be it human or
traces of a human), but this basic process has been elaborated and improved upon: dogs
now are commonly also trained in recall/refind and indication. The entire process may
begin with the command "Go find!", indicating that the dog is to search until the find is
made. After the find, the dog can be trained to return to the handler (recall), perform a
trained indication (often a bark coupled with some form of meaningful touching of the
handler, such as a paw placed on the handler's leg or a "sit-stay" at the handler's feet), and
return to the subject (refind, sometimes cued with the "Show me!" command). Once the
handler is with the subject, the dog is released (and during training, rewarded). Dogs are
trained in the recall/refind shuttle between the handler and the source until the handler
and subject are within sight (this builds on the dog's natural pack instinct). This is of
greatest use in situations where the dog may be ranging from the handler (wilderness
airscenting) or the subject may be concealed or out of sight (e.g., at night, hidden in
brush), but is less useful for dogs trained for close-quarters searches (e.g., cadaver and
drowning dogs).

There are two schools of thought on recognizing when the dog has made a find, the
"natural" or untrained indication, versus the trained indication. With the natural
indication, the handler must learn to recognize the dog's change in body language when
s/he has made a find. For example, the dog may approach the handler and give specific
look, or return to the handler in a very determined manner; each dog's natural indication
is unique and often difficult for the handler to accurately describe to others. This method
is touted as being accurate (currently only method used by RCMP), instinctual, and
natural thus requiring less training for the dog and more for the handler. This allows the
dog to "Have a bad day" and given that it is still a natural reaction the dog will still react
in the same way.

During training, the handler must learn to recognize this behavior without cueing the dog
(lest the dog learn to "indicate" only when the handler subconsciously prompts him to, a
common mistake during the training process), and can complicate early training sessions
if the handler (who is learning to read the dog) fails to reward a successful find
appropriately because she failed to recognize the dog's natural indication. Thus it is
important to train with those having more experience. On scene, the handler must pay
constant close attention to the dog, which may be difficult or dangerous in commonly
encountered search scenarios (e.g., night, hazardous terrain, low-visibility, while
navigating off-trail, when fatigued or distracted). Handlers using dogs trained to a natural
indication risk missing finds outside of training scenarios, mistaking alerts for finds, or
missing finds because a natural indication was not noticed or recognized, however they
have the advantage in that as the dog tires or becomes distracted they will still exercise
the natural behavior while they may not follow up with the trained response.

The trained indication involves an additional step in the search-find process; the dog is
taught to perform a clearly recognizable behavior only upon finding the subject. For
example, the dog may return to the handler and sit, perform a jump up, bark (either at the
handler or near the subject), or grab a decoy or bringsel. Addition of this extra step during
training is easily accomplished, has the benefit of being easily recognizable under any
circumstance, and can be easily differentiated from an alert (see below). Often, training
the dog to perform a specific behavior is easier and more reliable than training handlers
to consistently and reliably read a dog's "natural" indication. This takes less training on
the part of the handler and more on the part of the dog. An example of a trained response
is that, when a distant find has been made, the dog can be taught to repeatedly shuttle
between the subject and handler using a refind-return-indicate-refind sequence.
When using a trained indication, the behavior must be well-ingrained in the search-find-
recall process that a fatigued dog does not skip it. Distractions are still a problem and
extensive training must be done to avoid this less something as simple as a loud noise or
animal prevent the lost person from being found. Advanced dogs can be trained to give
different indications depending upon the nature of the find: for example, a jump-up for a
live airscent find and a sit for cadaver. A potential problem with this method is that
poorly-trained dogs (or those who have been rushed through training) can become
distracted before performing the alert.

An alert by an airscenting dog can be distinct from an indication (although for a dog that
uses a natural indication, the two may not be distinguishable). Both involve being able to
read the dog's behavior. Alerts are instances where an airscenting dog detects human
scent but has not located the subject or source. Alerts can be recognized by a change in
the dog's behavior—pointing, following a scent upwind, circling, or following scent up
terrain or obstructions, for example. Recognizing an alert is important for any
experienced handler, as the location of alerts along with wind conditions, environmental
conditions, and terrain can be used by the handler to alter the search strategy. Regardless
of whether the dog is trained to perform an indication on find, or whether the handler
uses a natural indication on find, all handlers must be able to recognize an alert in order
to effectively deploy their dog. Inexperienced handlers who use trained indications may
have difficulty recognizing alerts, while handlers who rely on a natural indication may
not be able to differentiate an alert from an indication (since the behaviors are essentially
the same).

Training techniques for search dogs are not written in stone. There are many different
techniques for training a dog for this type of work. Anyone interested in training a search
dog should contact a reputable search dog organization and discuss the training methods
used.
Chapter- 13

Dog Intelligence and Assistance dog

Dog Intelligence

Many dogs can easily be trained to retrieve objects like this stick

Dog intelligence is the ability of a dog to learn, think, and solve problems. Dog trainers,
owners, and researchers have as much difficulty agreeing on a method for testing canine
intelligence as they do for human intelligence. One specific difficulty is confusing a
breed's genetic characteristics and a dog's obedience training with intelligence.

Certain breeds, like Doberman Pinschers, Border Collies, Poodles, German Shepherds,
Shetland Sheepdogs, Rottweilers, Labrador Retrievers, Papillons, Australian Cattle Dogs
and Golden Retrievers, are claimed by some to be "smarter" breeds of dogs because of
their obedience. However, the ability and willingness to learn and obey commands is not
the only possible measurement of intelligence. Other breeds, such as sled dogs and sight
hounds demonstrate intelligence in other ways.
Inherited abilities

Dogs are pack animals. They understand social structure and obligations, and are capable
of interacting with other members of the pack. Adult canines train their young by
"correcting" them when they behave in an unacceptable manner (such as biting too hard
or eating out of turn) and reward them for acceptable behavior, by playing with them,
feeding them, or cleaning them.

They are also den animals. This means that they can easily learn behavior related to
keeping the den clean (such as housebreaking) and relaxing in an enclosed area (such as a
crate during travel or for training).

Some breeds have been selectively bred for hundreds or thousands of years for the quality
of learning quickly. That quality has been downplayed for other breeds in favor of other
characteristics like the ability to track or hunt game, or to fight other animals. The
capacity to learn basic obedience and complicated behavior, however, is inherent in all
dogs. Owners must simply be more patient with some breeds than with others.

Nonetheless, inherited behavior is not necessarily an indicator of intelligence. For

example, a sheep herding breed, like a Border Collie, would be expected to learn how to
herd sheep very quickly and might even perform the job with little training. The same
breed, however, would be a challenge to train how to point and retrieve game. A Pointer
often points to game instinctively and naturally retrieves game without damaging it, but
training it to herd sheep would be difficult if not impossible.

Evaluation of intelligence

The meaning of "intelligence" in general, not only in reference to dogs, is hard to define.
Some tests measure problem-solving abilities and others test the ability to learn in
comparison to others of the same age. Defining it for dogs is just as difficult. It is likely
that dogs do not have the ability to premeditate an action to solve a problem. Some dogs
may, however, have more drive to keep trying various things until they accidentally reach
a solution and still others might have more ability to make the association between the
"accident" and the result.

For example, the ability to learn quickly could be a sign of intelligence. It could be
interpreted as a sign of blind subservience and a desire to please. In contrast, some dogs
who do not learn very quickly may have other talents. An example is breeds that are not
particularly interested in pleasing their owners, such as Siberian Huskies. Huskies are
often fascinated with the myriad possibilities for escaping from yards and catching small
animals, figuring out on their own numerous and often ingenious ways of doing both.

Assistance dogs are also required to be obedient at all times. This means they must learn
a tremendous number of commands, understand how to act in a large variety of
situations, and recognize threats to their human companions, some of which they might
never before have encountered.
Many owners of livestock guardian breeds believe that breeds such as Great Pyrenees or
the Kuvasz are not easily trained because their independent nature prevents them from
seeing the point of such commands as "sit" or "down". The Molosser breeds are said to be
particularly sensitive to physical or vocal aggression and, as such, are generally thought
to respond to positive reinforcement-based methods of training. Hounds, (such as
Beagles, Bloodhounds, and Basset Hounds), rank in the bottom tier of "The Intelligence
of Dogs" list, but probably suffer from a certain approach to intelligence assessment.
These dogs are bred to have a tenacious tracking mentality, taking advantage of their
acute sense of smell, and less ability in "problem solving," which is the central task of
Working and Herding dogs. In addition, many dog "authorities" are unaware of the
Scenthound's extraordinary ability to perceive and evaluate things other than odors. They
can detect pheromones, among other things, and may have the ability to evaluate a
human's or another dog's personality or disposition from as far away as 300 feet. This can
be described as "conditional intelligence" where the animal is quick to learn some things,
while appearing reluctant to learn others.

Testing and research

Certain intelligence tests involve the dog's ability to recognize and respond to a large
vocabulary of commands. Other tests involve their desire or ability to respond to different
situations. Just as with humans, there is a wide variety of interpretations as to what makes
a dog "intelligent".

Various studies have attempted to rigorously classify intelligence of dogs. A recent

example is animal psychologist Juliane Kaminski's paper in Science that demonstrated
that Rico, a Border Collie, could learn over 200 words. Rico could remember the names
of several items for up to four weeks after its last exposure (Kaminski eliminated the
Clever Hans effect using strict protocols). Rico was also able to interpret phrases such as
"fetch the sock" in terms of its component words (rather than considering its utterance to
be a single word). Rico could also give the sock to a specified person. In 2008, Betsy,
also a Border Collie, was featured on the cover of National Geographic Magazine.
Betsy's intelligence rivaled that of Rico's in that she knew over 340 words and was able
to correlate an object with a photographic image of the object, despite having seen neither
before.

In his 1996 book Good Natured, ethologist Frans de Waal discusses an experiment on
guilt and reprimands conducted on a female Siberian husky. The dog had the habit of
shredding newspapers, and when her owner returned home to find the shredded papers
and scold her she would act guilty. However, when the owner himself shredded the
papers without the dog's knowledge, the dog "acted just as 'guilty' as when she herself
had created the mess." De Waal concludes that the "guilt" displayed by dogs is not true
guilt but rather the anticipation of the behavior of an angry superior in a given situation.

A recent study in the journal PNAS concluded that dogs can feel complex emotions, like
jealousy.
Psychology research has shown that human faces are asymmetrical with the gaze
instinctively moving to the right side of a face upon encountering other humans to obtain
information about their emotions and state. Research at the University of Lincoln (2008)
shows that dogs share this instinct when meeting a human being, and only when meeting
a human being (ie, not other animals or other dogs). As such they are the only non-
primate species known to do so.

School psychologist Kathy Coon developed the first intelligence test for dogs in 1976 ,
with the work continuously revised through 2003. Assessments were developed to test
short term memory, agility, ability to adapt, problem solving, unique detour problems,
and to see how the dog reacts to conditions which he or she finds unacceptable. The
performance of individual dogs was compared to over 100 dogs on which the test was
standardized. Additional breed norms were developed in her book, The Dog Intelligence
Test.

Stanley Coren ranked dog breeds by intelligence in his book The Intelligence of Dogs
based on surveys done of dog trainers, the article for which contains a summary of the
rankings obtained.

Assistance Dog

An assistance dog pressing a button to open an automatic door

An assistance dog is a dog trained to aid or assist a person with a disability. Many are
trained by a specific organization, while others are trained by their handler (sometimes
with the help of a professional trainer).
Classification

There are three general "types" in which an assistance dog may be further classified.
Most assistance dogs will be trained for only one of these, though "combination" dogs do
exist.

• Guide dogs assist the blind and the visually impaired.

• Hearing dogs, or signal dogs, help the deaf and hard of hearing.

• Service dogs refers to dogs not specifically trained for visual or hearing
impairment, but trained to do other work, such as mobility assistance dogs,
seizure alert dogs or other medical alert dogs, and psychiatric service dogs. In the
United States, the term "service dog" may be used synonymously with "assistance
dog," and is occasionally used for other types of working dogs as well. In most of
the rest of the world a distinct separation between service dogs and assistance
dogs is observed.