MushroomDude ENGLlSH

Crochet pattern for a stuffed toy
Etsy shop: etsy.com/shop/MyCroWonders

e-mail: [email protected]
Instagram: @mycrochetwonders
©Marina Chuchkalova 2021

This crochet pattern IS A PAID TUTORIAL!
The pattern is sold exclusively through the designer’s
Etsy shop: etsy.com/shop/MyCroWonders
All rights reserved.
Copying and resale of this crochet pattern are not allowed.
Distribution and republishing of this pattern in any kind and in any

form, in whole or in parts, making the contents of this pattern available to
third parties and/or uploading to the internet without prior written
permission of the rights holder are explicitly prohibited.
Finished toys made with the help of this pattern may be sold with
reference to the pattern’s designer, such as “Made from a pattern by Marina
Chuchkalova“.
When publishing your own photos of your own work on the internet,
please reference the pattern’s designer, for instance by using the phrase
“Crocheted from a pattern by Marina Chuchkalova @mycrochetwonders“.
The designer’s photos may not be used without permission!
© 2021 Marina Chuchkalova // etsy.com/shop/MyCroWonders // Crochet pattern “Mushroom dude‟// page 2 //

Translation from the Russian © 2021 Katharina Sokiran
Materials and tools:
1. Cotton blend yarn (yardage 330 m / 100 g [361 yds / 3.5 oz])
Milk White – Yarn Art Jeans 03 (total needed about 65 g [2.3 oz])
Red – Yarn Art Jeans 26 (total needed about 40 g [1.4 oz])
Green – Yarn Art Jeans 69 (total needed about 5 g [0.2 oz])
White – Yarn Art Jeans 01 (remnant for shoe sole)
2. Crochet hook 2 mm [US steel hook 4, UK 2½].
3. Polyester fiberfil for stuffing.
4. Tapestry needle with large eye.
5. Safety eyes, diameter 8 mm [0.32 in] – 2 pieces.
6. Remnant of black thread or embroidery floss for embroidering the mouth.
7. Dry pastel chalk for toning, and a piece of soft cloth for applying it (e.g. fleece).
8. Tailor pins.
9. rip-resistant sturdy cotton yarn for attaching arms (yardage 100 m / 100 g [109
yds / 3.5 oz])

Abbreviations used:
(sc, in)... times – repeat instructions in parenthesis
the indicated number of times.
AMR – adjustable magic ring;
blo – work through the back loop only;
ch – chain;
dc – double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK);
dc-inc – double crochet increase (2 double crochets
(US), or 2 treble crochets (UK) worked into the same
stitch = 1 increased);
dec – decrease (2 stitches crocheted off together, with separate bases and a
shared top);
hdc – half double crochet (US), half treble (UK);
hdc-inc – increase of half double crochet (US) / half treble (UK) (2 half double
crochets (US) / 2 half trebles (UK) worked into the same stitch = 1 increased);
inc – increase (2 sts worked into the same stitch = 1 increased).
rep – repeat;
rnd(s) – round(s);
sc – single crochet (US), double crochet (UK);
sl-st – slip stitch;
st(s) – stitch(es);
Numbers in parenthesis at the end of a row or round indicate the stitch count
after completion of the row or round.
Finished size and construction notes:

The finished toy will be about 21 cm [8.3 in] tall. Difficulty level: medium.
If not otherwise stated, all parts of the toy are always worked in continuous spiral
rounds.
Legs, body and head are worked in one piece together from the bottom up.
Arms are worked separately and attached with the thread joint method. The
collar is crocheted directly onto the body. Shoes and cap are removable. With
shoes on, the toy can stand on its own.

Using this pattern, you can also crochet a Boletus
mushroom. For the Boletus mushroom, the loopy
embellishment on the cap and the crocheted-on
collar are omitted, the top of the cap is worked in
Brown, and the body in Beige. The top of the cap
and Round 29 of the body are worked through both
loops of the stitch (instead of through the back loop
only as stated in instructions for Fly Agaric). Spots
where instructions for Fly Agaric and Boletus are
different are marked with an asterisk * in the pattern.
FLY AGARIC DUDE

LEGS (make 2)
Stuff as you go.
Worked in color Milk White.
Crochet a chain of ch5 + ch1 for height adjustment.
Row 1: 4 sc, 3 sc in the last ch of the chain. Continue into the unused loops on
the other side of the chain: 3 sc, 1 inc in the first ch of the chain (12)
Round 2: 1 inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (18)
Round 3: 1 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, (1 sc, 1 inc) 3 times, 3 sc, (1 sc, 1 inc) 2 times (24)
Round 4: 1 sl-st each into every stitch (24)
Round 5: working into the back loop of this rnd + at the same time through the
“braid” of Rnd 3 – 1 sc each into every stitch (24)
Round 6: 1 sc each into every stitch (24)

Round 7: 5 sc, 6 dec, 7 sc (18)
Rounds 8–12: 5 rounds total – 1 sc each into every stitch (18)
On the first leg, break the working yarn, secure the last stitch, and hide the end.
On the second leg, work 5 sc more to get to the inside (crotch side) of the leg.
Do not break the working yarn, continue to work the body with it.
BODY
Beginning at the working loop of the leg, ch3.

Take up the first leg, and insert the crochet hook into the stitch on the inside of
the leg (I counted off 5 sts from the beginning of the round towards the right –
in the photo, the spot is marked with a black pin) – this will be the beginning of
the round for the body; mark this spot with a piece of contrasting yarn or a stitch
marker.
Work over the stitches of both legs and the chain between the legs. Stuff as you
go.
Round 1: 18 sc across the leg sts, 3 sc across the chain between the legs, 18 sc
across the leg sts, 3 sc across the chain between the legs (42)
Round 2: 6 inc, 6 sc, 6 inc, 3 sc, 6 inc, 6 sc, 6 inc, 3 sc (66)
Round 4: (10 sc, 1 inc) 6 times (72)
Round 15: (11 sc, 1 dec) 6 times (72)

Round 21: 23 sc, 12 dec, 25 sc (60) – the decreases should be located in the
middle of the body. If needed, move the decreases to the appropriate spot, so
that they are located in the middle of the body.

*Round 29: blo – 1 sc each into every stitch (30)
Do not break the working yarn, continue to work the head with it.
HEAD
Place the heat aside for a short time to crochet the COLLAR.
Join new working yarn in Milk White to the unused loop of the first stitch of Rnd 28
of the body. (Either work the collar from a new ball of yarn, or use the other end of
the current ball.)

Collar Round 1: 1 inc each into every stitch (60)
Collar Round 2: 1 sc each into every stitch (60)
Collar Round: (1 sc, 1 inc) 30 times (90)
Collar Rounds 4–6: 3 rounds total – 1 sc each into every stitch (90)
Collar Round 7: (ch3, skip 1 st, 1 sl-st) – alternate to end of rnd.
Break the working yarn, and secure the end. Take up the head again.

Round 10: 4 sc, 1 dec, (8 sc, 1 dec) 5 times, 4 sc (54)
Stuff the head with fiberfil. Mark the position of the eyes between Rnds 7 and 8
with tailor pins, leaving 10 sts between eyes. Remove the stuffing from the front
of the head, insert the safety eyes, and attach the washers from the inside of the
head. Return the stuffing to the head, and continue crocheting.
Round 15: blo – (3 sc, 1 dec) 6 times (24)

Round 18: blo – 6 dec (6)
Stuff with fiberfil. Cinch to pull the remaining opening closed, and hide the tail on
the inside.
Join new working yarn in Milk White to the first stitch at the top of the head.
Beginning here, ch3, 1 sl-st in next st. Work in this manner to the end of the spiral
– always ch3, and attach to the head with a sl-st.
Now, use a piece of milk white yarn cinch the posterior for shaping. Attach the
yarn in the back between the legs, then count off 13 rounds towards the top, go
through in this spot, and exit the needle in the spot where you started. Pull at the
yarn with medium strength. Make two more stitches like the first one. Fasten the
yarn, and hide the end on the inside. Move the stuffing with the needle from the
outside to nudge the posterior cheeks into a round shape.

ARMS (make 2)
Worked from the top down in color Milk White.
Round 1: 6 sc into an AMR (6)
Round 7: 1 dec, 10 sc (11)
Round 9: 1 dec, 9 sc (10)
Round 11: 1 dec, 8 sc (9)
Stuff with fiberfil. Leave the palm unstuffed.
Cinch the remaining opening through the unused front loops. Hide the tail on
the inside.
Attaching arms with the thread joint method:

Using tailor pins, mark the spots for attaching the arms at the sides of the body,
4 rnds below the head, leaving 24 sts between the arms. Use thick cotton yarn
for the thread joint. Thread a length of cotton yarn into a tapestry needle.

Leaving an end of 10 cm [4 in] hanging on the outside, insert the tapestry needle
in the back of the body at the level where the arms will be attached, and exit in
the spot where the first arm will be attached. Grasp 2–3 stitches at the inside of
the arm. Go with the needle all the way through the body, and exit the needle at
the opposite side. Attach the second arm the same way. Return to the first arm,
grasp it once more in the same spot, then repeat for the second arm. Exit the tail
to the outside in the spot where the needle had been inserted the first time. Pull
at the thread with medium strength, to pull the arms closer to the body, then
knot several times. Cut off the ends not too short, and hide the tails on the
inside.
CAP FOR FLY AGARIC

Underside.
Worked in color Milk White.
Round 2: 6 inc (12)
Round 6: flo – (4 sc, 1 inc) 6 times (36)
Round 18: blo – (5 hdc, hdc-inc) 10 times (70)
Round 19: (6 hdc, hdc-inc) 10 times (80)
Break the working yarn, and secure the end. Turn the cap inside out.
Join new working yarn in Red to an unused loop of Rnd 5.

Break the working yarn, leaving an end long enough for seaming. Stuff with
fiberfil.
This reinforcing ring makes the cap sturdier.

Topside.
*Work all rounds through the back loop of the stitches only.
Worked in Red.

Round 2: 6 inc (12)
Leave the working loop of the last stitch open.

Topside loop embellishment.
The topside loops are worked into the unused loops of the cap stitches. The
unused loops of the stitches go in a spiral around the cap. Before beginning, it is
recommended to run a marking thread from the top end of the spiral to the
open working stitch at the bottom.
Join new working yarn in Red to the unused loop of the first stitch at the top of
the cap. Beginning here, ch3, 1 sl-st in next st. Continue in this manner, always
chaining 3, and attaching to the head with a sl-st.
Skip the next cap round, working 1 sl-st into the unused loop of the stitch 1 rnd
below (next stitch on the marking thread), and beginning the second round of
loops here.
Continue crocheting loops this way, always skipping another round of the cap
when arriving at the marking thread again. To check whether you have
crocheted correctly, make sure that there’s always a skipped round of unused
stitch loops visible between crocheted loop embellishment rounds.
Finish crocheting loop rounds when one last round of unused cap loops remains
(you will add this last round later on). Leave the working loop of the last stitch
open, you will continue in this spot after the parts have been joined.

Join the parts as follows: First, sew the reinforcing ring to the cap top from the
inside, adding stuffing before completely closing the seam.
Then, insert the crochet hook into the working loop left open in the last round of
the red part, and turn the cap with its wrong side is facing you. Crochet the two
edges (red and milk white) together with slip stitches. Insert stuffing while
crocheting together, but don’t stuff too firmly.
Break the working yarn, and secure the end.

Now, return to the working loop left open from the loopy embellishment on the
topside of the cap, and finish up the last round of loops. Break the working yarn,
and secure the end.
In a random pattern, add in patches of white loops between the red loop rounds
for scales.
BOOTIES (make 2)
Shoe sole (make 4)
Worked in White.
Crochet a chain of ch5 + ch2 for height adjustment.
Row 1: dc-inc, 3 dc, 5 dc in the last chain of the chain. Continue into the unused
loops on the other side of the chain: 3 dc, dc-inc, 1 sl-st into the second chain of
the turning chain (15)
Round 2: ch1 for height adjustment, 2 inc, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 5 dc-inc, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1
sc, 2 inc, 1 sl-st into the turning chain (24)
Round 3: ch1 for height adjustment, 4 inc, 3 sc, 10 inc, 3 sc, 4 inc, 1 sl-st into the
turning chain (42)
Break the working yarn, and secure the end.
Place the two soles on top of each other, wrong sides facing each other, and
right sides facing out.
Using new working yarn in White, crochet the edges of the two soles together in
sl-st. Hide the tails between the two sole layers.

Join new working yarn in Green at the center back, and continue working the
bootie from here.
Round 1: sc under the slip stitch “braid” from crocheting soles together (42)

Round 4: 11 sc, 10 dec, 11 sc (32) – the decreases are located in the middle of the
front of the shoe.
Round 6: 11 sc, 5 dec, 11 sc (27)
Break the working yarn, secure the end and weave in the tail.
Embroider a mouth as shown. Blush the cheeks with dry pastel chalk. Apply the
pastel chalk first to a piece of soft cloth, then rub them onto the highest spots on
the cheeks with the cloth.
Finished!

If showing your work on Instagram,
don’t forget to tag me with @mycrochetwonders
and to use hashtags #design_by_chuchkalova
#crochetcheekyguys #cheekymushroom
More patterns to be found in my Etsy shop

etsy.com/shop/MyCroWonders
with automated download function
instantly after receipt of payment.
THANK YOU FOR CROCHETING WITH ME.

MAY YOUR CROCHETED PIECE TURN OUT WELL!
SEE YOU NEXT TIME!


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Crochet pattern for a stuffed toy

Etsy shop: etsy.com/shop/MyCroWonders

©Marina Chuchkalova 2021

All rights reserved.

Copying and resale of this crochet pattern are not allowed.

Distribution and republishing of this pattern in any kind and in any

© 2021 Marina Chuchkalova // etsy.com/shop/MyCroWonders // Crochet pattern “Mushroom dude‟// page 2 //

© 2021 Marina Chuchkalova // etsy.com/shop/MyCroWonders // Crochet pattern “Mushroom dude‟// page 3 //

Finished size and construction notes:

© 2021 Marina Chuchkalova // etsy.com/shop/MyCroWonders // Crochet pattern “Mushroom dude‟// page 4 //

FLY AGARIC DUDE

Crochet a chain of ch5 + ch1 for height adjustment.

© 2021 Marina Chuchkalova // etsy.com/shop/MyCroWonders // Crochet pattern “Mushroom dude‟// page 5 //

Beginning at the working loop of the leg, ch3.

© 2021 Marina Chuchkalova // etsy.com/shop/MyCroWonders // Crochet pattern “Mushroom dude‟// page 6 //

Rounds 22–26: 5 rounds total – 1 sc each into every stitch (60)

© 2021 Marina Chuchkalova // etsy.com/shop/MyCroWonders // Crochet pattern “Mushroom dude‟// page 7 //

Rounds 3–9: 7 rounds total – 1 sc each into every stitch (60)

Round 15: blo – (3 sc, 1 dec) 6 times (24)

© 2021 Marina Chuchkalova // etsy.com/shop/MyCroWonders // Crochet pattern “Mushroom dude‟// page 9 //

Attaching arms with the thread joint method:

© 2021 Marina Chuchkalova // etsy.com/shop/MyCroWonders // Crochet pattern “Mushroom dude‟// page 10 //

CAP FOR FLY AGARIC

Join new working yarn in Red to an unused loop of Rnd 5.

This reinforcing ring makes the cap sturdier.

© 2021 Marina Chuchkalova // etsy.com/shop/MyCroWonders // Crochet pattern “Mushroom dude‟// page 12 //

Round 1: 6 sc into an AMR (6)

© 2021 Marina Chuchkalova // etsy.com/shop/MyCroWonders // Crochet pattern “Mushroom dude‟// page 13 //

© 2021 Marina Chuchkalova // etsy.com/shop/MyCroWonders // Crochet pattern “Mushroom dude‟// page 14 //

Break the working yarn, and secure the end.

Crochet a chain of ch5 + ch2 for height adjustment.

© 2021 Marina Chuchkalova // etsy.com/shop/MyCroWonders // Crochet pattern “Mushroom dude‟// page 16 //

Rounds 2–3: 2 rounds total – 1 sc each into every stitch (42)

© 2021 Marina Chuchkalova // etsy.com/shop/MyCroWonders // Crochet pattern “Mushroom dude‟// page 17 //

More patterns to be found in my Etsy shop

THANK YOU FOR CROCHETING WITH ME.

© 2021 Marina Chuchkalova // etsy.com/shop/MyCroWonders // Crochet pattern “Mushroom dude‟// page 18 //

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