Picnic Blanket Tote
Picnic Blanket Tote
Picnic Blanket Tote
Crochet
Blanket
Pattern
Tote
Thoughtfully placed hardware allows this roomy shoulder bag to convert into a picnic blanket! You can haul
plenty of food to your favorite picnic spot, then open up this bag into a table covering or blanket when you
arrive! Citrus colored granny squares lend a fresh energy to this classic stitch pattern, and the dual-sided
border keeps this blanket looking crisp from both sides.
Finished Measurements
Finished blanket measures approximately 34” [86.5cm] X 52” [132cm] including a 2” [5cm] single crochet
border. Large Granny Squares measure 12” [30.5cm], Small Granny Squares measure 6” [15cm] and the border
measures about 2” [5cm] wide after finishing.
Materials
• Cotton worsted weight yarn (CYCA#4) in the following amounts and colors (see notes): 1,240 yds [1134m]
of light cool gray (MC), 200 yds [183m] of light green (C1), 290 yds [265m] of orange (C2), 200 yds [183m] of
pale pink (C3), 290 yds [265m] of grass green (C4), 290 yds [265m] of bright yellow (C5), 290 yds [265m] of
dark pink (C6). If you plan to substitute yarn, choose a yarn that does not have much stretch. Note that this
yarn is a little bit thinner (and a bit softer) than the typical kitchen cotton from a big box store.
• US F/5 [3.75mm] crochet hook for the granny squares, handles, ties, and D-ring attachment pieces, or size
needed to obtain gauge.
• US G/6 [4.00mm] for the single crochet border only (or one size larger than the hook used to get granny
square gauge).
• Yarn Needle
• Four removeable stitch markers
• Four 1 1/8” [29mm] sturdy metal buttons
• Button thread and sewing needle
• Four ¾” [19mm] heavy duty swivel snap hooks, such as these: https://a.co/d/8KE7E1h
• Twelve ¾” [19mm] (inside diameter) heavy duty metal D-rings such as these: https://a.co/d/iOFQ47f
(you will need to buy 2 packages of this item)
Gauge
Work through Round 7 of directions (for either size Granny Square) with smaller hook. Piece measures 6”
[15cm] x 6” [15cm].
Abbreviations
Notes
This pattern was designed to make it easy for you to put together your squares with colors that look good
next to each other and to take the guesswork out of square placement within the blanket layout. A system of
rotating through the colors in a certain way for each square, will allow for a fairly even usage of each color. If
you follow the directions in this pattern for the color changes in each square, you will not have to think about
which color to use, and where to place your squares.
On the other hand, this Blanket-Tote would be a fantastic way to use leftover yarn! Do not feel as though you
have to follow the directions given for color changes in this pattern — it is perfectly fine to make up your own
color scheme, or to just grab the next color randomly!
There are 6 large granny squares and 16 small granny squares that make up this blanket. Each square is made
separately then sewn together. Although you might be tempted to join as you go, sewing the squares together
adds some much needed structure to the fabric, so think twice about changing the method of attachment.
After squares are joined, a single crochet border is made around the edges of the blanket. For the first half of
the border, increases are made at the corners, and for the second half of the border, decreases are made at the
corners. This makes the hem fold back on itself and creates a self-faced border around the blanket.
While making the border, stitches are skipped to make the buttonholes. There are chain spaces made between
sets of buttonholes in order to create a weaker point in the border; this gives the border an easy place to make
a fold when the blanket is buttoned in order to create the shape of the tote.
Optional technique for minimizing the amount of ends you will need to weave in later:
Instead of joining with a HDC at the end of the round, make a ch 1, then slip stitch into the top of first stitch of
the round, ch 8, then fasten off leaving a 6” [15cm] yarn tail.
After completing the first 3 DC of the round, fold the yarn tail and 8 chains along the top edge of your work.
Hold these in place while you make the next DC around them (working into the usual space between
groups of DC).
On the next DC, YO, then insert hook into the same space between sts, but also into the fourth chain
of the ch-8 strand. Make sure you are still encasing the yarn tail as you do this. YO and pull up loop
(pulling back through the chain stitch and back through to the front of your work), [YO and pull
through 2 loops on hook] twice to complete the DC. Let’s call this a fastening DC because we are
fastening the chain to the back of our work.
Place one more DC into the same space between stitches, this time encasing the chain as well as the
yarn tail, just as we did before the previous stitch.
On the next group of 3 DC we will make 2 DC sts into the next space between stitches again encasing
the chain and the yarn tail.
The third DC of this group will be made as a fastening DC, through the eighth chain.
Pull on the ending yarn tail, to straighten it out, then trim the end.
Be sure to watch the video tutorial on the Creative Crochet Corner website for tips.
Special Stitches
Single Crochet through the Front Loop (SC Flp): Insert hook into the front loop of the indicated stitch, YO and
pull up loop, YO and pull through 2 loops.
Single Crochet two stitches together (SC2tog): This stitch is worked over the next 2 stitches. Insert hook
into the next stitch, YO and pull up loop, insert hook into the following stitch, YO and pull up loop, YO and pull
through all 3 loops. 1 decrease made.
Instructions
Square 1: C1, C2, C3, C4, C5, C6, MC, C1, MC, C2, MC, C3, MC, C4
Square 2: C2, C3, C4, C5, C6, C1, MC, C2, MC, C3, MC, C4, MC, C5
Square 3: C3, C4, C5, C6, C1, C2, MC, C3, MC, C4, MC, C5, MC, C6
Square 4: C4, C5, C6, C1, C2, C3, MC, C4, MC, C5, MC, C6, MC, C1
Square 5: C5, C6, C1, C2, C3, C4, MC, C5, MC, C6, MC, C1, MC, C2
Square 6: C6, C1, C2, C3, C4, C5, MC, C6, MC, C1, MC, C2, MC, C3
Set-up Rnd: With first color and smaller hook, ch 4, sl st in first ch to join into a ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as the first DC of rnd), 2 DC in center of ring, [ch 2, 3 DC in ring] 3 times, HDC into
top of beginning ch-3 to join. Fasten off.
Rnd 2: Begin with a slipknot of the second color on hook. Insert hook into ch-2 sp at corner of square,
YO and pull up loop and pull through loop on hook, ch 2 (counts as first DC of rnd), 2 DC in same ch-2
sp, *skip next 3 DC, [3 DC, ch 2, 3 DC] in next ch-2 sp, repeat from * twice more, skip next 3 DC, 3 DC
into first ch-2 sp, HDC into top of ch-2 to join, fasten off.
Rnd 3: Begin with a slipknot of the third color on hook. Insert hook into ch-2 sp at corner of square,
YO and pull up loop and pull through loop on hook, ch 2 (counts as first DC of rnd), 2 DC in same ch-2
sp, *skip next 3 DC, 3 DC into sp before next set of 3 DC sts, skip next 3 DC, [3 DC, ch 2, 3 DC] in next
ch-2 sp, repeat from * twice more, skip next 3 DC, 3 DC into sp before next set of 3 DC sts, skip next 3
DC, 3 DC into first ch-2 sp, HDC into top of ch-2 to join, fasten off.
Rnd 4: Begin with a slipknot of the next color on hook. Insert hook into ch-2 sp at corner of square, YO
and pull up loop and pull through loop on hook, ch 2 (counts as first DC of rnd), 2 DC in same ch-2 sp,
*3 DC into each sp between 3-DC groups across to next ch-2 sp, [3 DC, ch 2, 3 DC] in ch-2 sp, repeat
from * twice more, 3 DC into each sp between 3-DC groups across to first ch-2 sp, 3 DC in ch-2 sp,
HDC into top of ch-2 to join, fasten off.
Blanket Assembly
If squares seem uneven, you may want to block each square so that they are the same size.
Alternatively, you can wait until the border is finished to block the blanket.
Arrange squares as shown in the schematic and seam pieces together using a whipstitch or seam of
choice.
Rnd 1: Using larger hook, hold blanket with RS facing, pull up loop of MC along edge of blanket at
seam between Square 22 and Square 4 (see schematic). Ch 1 (does not count as a st), SC around
edge of blanket making 2 SC into each ch-2 space (at corners of each square) and 1 SC into each
DC across. When working the corners of the blanket, place a [SC, ch 1, SC] into each ch-2 space at
corner. Sl st into the first SC of round to join, do not fasten off. Do not cut MC, but continue to carry it
up the WS of the border as work progresses. 606 sts.
Rnd 2:
Note: In this round you are simply working SC stitches (through the front loop only) all the way around,
but when you get to ch-1 space at the corners, you will work a ch-1, and skip the ch-1 space. You are
also beginning the ch-1 columns that sit between the buttonholes (indicated on the schematic with blue
arrows). These columns are located directly above the seams between squares 4 and 20, 13 and 6, 1 and
9, and 16 and 3. When you get to the seam, you will make a ch-1 and skip a stitch, and then continue with
the SC Flp round. Each of these ch-1 spaces should be marked with a stitch marker as they are made.
Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch now and throughout), *SC Flp into each stitch st to corner ch-1 sp, ch
1 at corner, skip ch-1 sp, SC Flp into each st across until working loop is directly above seam between
squares 4 and 20, ch 1, skip next st, SC Flp in next st, place stitch marker in ch-1 sp, SC Flp in each
st until working loop is directly above seam between squares 13 and 6, ch 1, skip next st, SC Flp in
next st, place stitch marker in ch-1 sp, SC Flp in each st to corner ch-1 sp, ch 1 at corner, skip ch-1
sp, SC Flp in each st across to next corner ch-1 sp, ch 1 at corner skip ch-1 sp, SC Flp into each st
until working loop is directly above seam between squares 1 and 9, ch 1, skip next st, SC Flp into next
st, place stitch marker in ch-1 sp, SC Flp across until working loop is directly above seams between
squares 16 and 3, ch 1, skip next SC, SC Flp into next st, place stitch marker in ch-1 sp, SC Flp into
each stitch to next ch-1 sp at corner, ch 1, skip ch-1 sp, SC Flp into each st to end of rnd, sl st into first
SC to join. 4 markers placed.
Rnd 3: YO with C5 and pull up loop to change color, pull on ending tail of MC until last loop of MC
disappears, ch 1 with C5 (does not count as a stitch), SC around blanket making a [SC, ch 1, SC]
into each ch-1 sp at each blanket corner, and when you get to the marked ch-1 sps along sides of
blanket, ch 1, and skip marked st, place marker in new ch-1 sp, end with sl st into first SC to join. 8 sts
increased. 614 sts.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, SC around blanket making a [SC, ch 1, SC] into each ch-1 sp at each blanket corner, and
when you get to the marked ch-1 sps along sides of blanket, ch 1, and skip marked st, place marker in
new ch-1 sp, end with sl st into first SC to join. 8 sts increased. 622 sts.
Rnd 5: YO with MC and pull up loop to change color, pull on ending tail of C5 until last loop of C5
disappears, ch 1 with MC (does not count as a stitch), SC around blanket making a [SC, ch 1, SC] into
each ch-1 sp at each blanket corner, and making a ch-1 sp over each marked ch-1 sp along sides of
blanket (skip marked st and remember to place marker in new ch-1 sp), end with sl st into first SC to
join. 8 sts increased. 630 sts.
Rnd 6 (buttonhole round): Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch now and throughout), *SC into each stitch
st to corner ch-1 sp, ch 1 at corner, [SC into each st until there are 7 sts left before marked ch-1 sp, ch
3, skip next 3 sts, SC in each of the next 4 sts, ch 1, skip ch-1 sp (place marker in new ch-1 sp), SC in
next 4 sts, ch 3, skip next 3 sts] twice, SC into each st to corner ch-1 sp, ch 1 at corner, skip ch-1 sp,
repeat from * once more, SC to end of rnd, join with sl st to top of first SC of rnd. 4 buttonholes made.
Rnd 7: YO with C4 and pull up loop to change color, pull on ending tail of MC until last loop of MC
disappears, ch 1 with C4 (does not count as a stitch), SC around blanket making a [SC, ch 1, SC] into
each ch-1 sp at each blanket corner, and making a ch-1 sp over each marked ch-1 sp along sides of
blanket (skip marked st and remember to place marker in new ch-1 sp), end with sl st into 1st SC
to join. Make sure that when you get to the ch-3 buttonholes, that you work a SC into each of the 3
chains (instead of the ch-3 sp). 8 sts increased. 638 sts.
Rnd 8: Ch 1, SC around blanket making a [SC, ch 1, SC] into each ch-1 sp at each blanket corner, and
when you get to the marked ch-1 sps along sides of blanket, ch 1, and skip marked st, place marker in
new ch-1 sp, end with sl st into first SC to join. 8 sts increased. 646 sts.
Rnd 9: YO with MC and pull up loop to change color, pull on ending tail of C4 until last loop of C4
disappears, ch 1 with MC (does not count as a stitch), SC around blanket making a [SC, ch 1, SC] into
each ch-1 sp at each blanket corner, and making a ch-1 sp over each marked ch-1 sp along sides of
blanket (skip marked st and remember to place marker in new ch-1 sp), end with sl st into first SC to
join. 8 sts increased. 654 sts.
Rnd 10 (loop-making round): Ch 1, *SC into each st to corner, 2 SC into corner ch-1 sp, ch 5, sl st into
second to last SC made, 8 SC into chain loop made, SC in each st to next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip ch-1 sp,
SC across to next ch 1 sp, ch 1, skip ch-1 sp, SC across to next corner, 2 SC into corner ch-1 sp, ch 5,
sl st into second to last SC made, 8 SC into chain loop made, repeat from * once more, ending with 1
SC into each st to end of rnd, sl st into first SC to join. 4 loops made - one at each corner
of the blanket.
Do not fasten off.
Rnd 12: Ch 1, *SC into each stitch until 2 sts remain before corner ch-1 sp, SC2tog, ch 1, skip ch-1 sp,
SC2tog, [SC into each st to next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip ch-1 sp, SC in next st, place marker in new ch-1 sp]
twice, SC to until 2 sts remain before corner ch-1 sp, SC2tog, ch 1, skip ch-1 sp, SC2tog, repeat from *
once more, SC to end, sl st into first SC to join. 8 sts decreased. 646 sts.
Rnd 13: YO with C6 and pull up loop to change color, pull on ending tail of MC until last loop of MC
disappears, ch 1 with C6 (does not count as a stitch), *SC into each stitch until 2 sts remain before
corner ch-1 sp, SC2tog, ch 1, skip ch-1 sp, SC2tog, [SC into each st to next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip ch-1
sp, SC in next st, place marker in new ch-1 sp] twice, SC to until 2 sts remain before corner ch-1 sp,
SC2tog, ch 1, skip ch-1 sp, SC2tog, repeat from * once more, SC to end, sl st into first SC to join. 8 sts
decreased. 638 sts.
Rnd 14: Ch 1, *SC into each stitch until 2 sts remain before corner ch-1 sp, SC2tog, ch 1, skip ch-1 sp,
SC2tog, [SC into each st to next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip ch-1 sp, SC in next st, place marker in new ch-1 sp]
twice, SC to until 2 sts remain before corner ch-1 sp, SC2tog, ch 1, skip ch-1 sp, SC2tog, repeat from *
once more, SC to end, sl st into first SC to join. 8 sts decreased. 630 sts.
Rnd 15:
Note: The ch-1 sps are shifted on this round to counteract the leaning SC stitches.
YO with MC and pull up loop to change color, pull on ending tail of C6 until last loop of C6 disappears,
ch 1 with MC (does not count as a stitch), *SC into each stitch ending at corner ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip
ch-1 sp, [SC into each st to next ch-1 sp, SC into ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip next SC, SC in next st, place marker
in new ch-1 sp] twice, SC to next corner ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip ch-1 sp, repeat from * once more, SC to
end, sl st into first SC to join.
Rnd 16 (buttonhole round): Ch 1, *SC into each stitch until 2 sts remain before corner ch-1 sp,
SC2tog, ch 1, skip ch-1 sp, SC2tog, [SC into each st until 7 sts remain before marked ch-1 sp, ch 3,
skip next 3 sts, SC into each of the next 4 sts, ch 1, skip ch-1 sp, SC into each of the next 4 sts, ch
3, skip next 3 sts] twice, SC to until 2 sts remain before corner ch-1 sp, SC2tog, ch 1, skip ch-1 sp,
SC2tog, repeat from * once more, SC to end, sl st into first SC to join. 8 sts decreased. 622 sts.
Rnd 17:
Note: When you get to the ch-3 buttonholes, work a SC into each of the 3 chains (instead of into the ch-3
sp).
YO with C2 and pull up loop to change color, pull on ending tail of MC until last loop of MC disappears,
ch 1 with C2 (does not count as a stitch), *SC into each stitch until 2 sts remain before corner ch-1 sp,
SC2tog, ch 1, skip ch-1 sp, SC2tog, [SC into each st to next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip ch-1 sp, SC in next st,
place marker in new ch-1 sp] twice, SC to until 2 sts remain before corner ch-1 sp, SC2tog, ch 1, skip
ch-1 sp, SC2tog, repeat from * once more, SC to end, sl st into first SC to join. 8 sts decreased. 614 sts.
Rnd 18: Ch 1, *SC into each stitch until 2 sts remain before corner ch-1 sp, SC2tog, ch 1, skip ch-1 sp,
SC2tog, [SC into each st to next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip ch-1 sp, SC in next st, place marker in new ch-1 sp]
twice, SC to until 2 sts remain before corner ch-1 sp, SC2tog, ch 1, skip ch-1 sp, SC2tog, repeat from *
once more, SC to end, sl st into first SC to join. 8 sts decreased. 606 sts.
Rnd 19:
YO with MC and pull up loop to change color, pull on ending tail of C2 until last loop of C2 disappears,
ch 1 with MC (does not count as a stitch), *SC into each stitch around, including each of the ch-1 sps,
sl st to first SC of rnd to join. Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing.
Ties (make 2)
Using MC and smaller hook, ch 71. Beginning with the second ch from hook and working into the
bottom of the chain, sl st in each ch across. Fasten off. Weave in ends.
Handles (make 2)
Using MC and smaller hook, ch 81.
Row 1: Beginning with the second ch from hook and working into the bottom of the chain, SC in each
ch across. 80 sts.
Rows 2-10: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), turn, SC into each st across.
Fasten off leaving long tail for sewing.
Roll each handle tightly to create a long sausage-shape as shown in photo). Using yarn tail and yarn
needle, sew the long edge of the roll to the handle along the length of the handle using a whip stitch.
This process will give strength and structure to the handles. Repeat for the other handle. Slide one
end of the handle through the opening in the bottom of the snap hook by about 1” [cm], and fold end
back on itself.
Use yarn and yarn needle to sew in place along the end of the handle as well as along the sides of the
handle where the two thicknesses meet. Make this a very sturdy seam. Repeat for opposite end of the
handle and also for the second handle as well.
Finishing
Fold self-facing to WS of blanket and sew in place to open back loops that were left when working
Rnd 2 of edging. Make sure that the buttonholes from the front of the border match up with the
buttonholes from the facing portion of the border.
Weave in ends, block blanket, D-Ring attachment pieces and ties if desired.
Slip the end of a D-ring attachment piece through a D-ring and pin in
place to blanket border as shown in layout photo. The attachment
piece should wrap from the outside of the border around to the
inside of the border. Sew in place through the thickness of the
border, around all edges of the
attachment piece.
Using photos as a guide, convert the blanket into the tote shape in
order to find the correct placement for the buttons. Sew buttons
to RS of the blanket border to the MC stripe between contrast colors. If your button does not have a
shank, then you must make one with thread as you stitch the button onto the border. Here are some
videos to help with this:
https://www.creativecrochetcorner.com/video/adding-button-to-crochet-project-037159/ and
https://www.craftsy.com/video/crochet-buttonholes-button-bands-020358/.
My Notes