PC UPGRADE & MAINTENANCE

Lecture Note by Mr. Dami

COURSE OUTLINE

1). Concept of Upgrading and Maintenance of a PC

➢ Introduction to PC Maintenance

➢ Typical Hazards Threatening the Normal Operation of a PC

➢ Viruses and Virus Types

➢ Sources and Spreading of Viruses

➢ Detecting and Removing Viruses

➢ Vital Computer maintenance tips to protect your device

2). The need for PC Upgrade

➢ Recent Advancement or development in Hardware

➢ Limitation of a PC and Scope for Upgrading

3). How to choose Hardware Components for Upgrading

➢ List of basic PC components and their functions

➢ Technical Specifications for PC Upgrading

4). How to replace Computer Components

➢ Basic Hardware Maintenance Tools

➢ Replacing the Computer Case

➢ Replacing the Computer power supply unit

➢ Replacing the Computer Motherboard

➢ Replacing the Computer CPU

➢ Replacing the Computer mass storage units

➢ Replacing the Computer Add-On Cards

TOPIC 1). CONCEPT OF UPGRADING AND MAINTENANCE OF A PC

Introduction to PC Maintenance:
In today’s technology-driven world, people depend almost fully on their computers, even for the
simplest of tasks. Businesses maintain maximum performance through the use of the most up-to-
date technologies; schools keep better management of students through the use of computers and
even any person can benefit from these machines.

However, all this efficiency will be lost if computers are not maintained. The following points are just
some of the ways to keep your computer clean for maximum performance.

1. When purchasing a computer remember to also purchase dust covers. As the name suggests these
will help prevent the build-up of dust on your computer’s monitor, central processing unit (CPU),
keyboard and mouse.

2. When considering a location for the computer in your home or office, place it in an area that is
cool - an air-conditioned room is preferable - or in an area that will not accommodate the easy
transmittal of dust to the computer, although this cannot be prevented. Placing the computer near
an open window is not advisable, as this will make the computer most vulnerable to the elements,
such as wind, dust and rain.

3. If one is serious about maintaining his computer for optimal performance then he should also
seriously consider cleaning the computer on a regular basis. This includes cleaning the monitor, CPU,
keyboard and mouse. The vacuuming of the inside of the CPU should also be done to eliminate the
build-up of dust on valuable hardware. To undertake this task, one should utilize the appropriate
tools and have the proper

understanding of what is to be done. If this is not clear, then one should utilize the services of a
trained technician.

4. Maintaining the optimum performance of one’s computer also includes managing the files on the
computer’s hard-drive. Keeping files over two years old only means slowing down the speed of that
computer. Once a file has been used and will not be used or needed for now, then that file can be
deleted or saved onto a floppy disk and removed from the computer’s hard-drive. Once the diskette
is properly labeled concerning its contents, then that file can be found again. The computer will now
have more space for other important documents.

5. Essential to the maintenance of a computer is the utilization of a good virus protection and
detection software. Viruses are made daily and without the appropriate software can cause
disastrous consequence for a computer’s hard-drive. If you follow these simple guidelines, which are
by no means exhaustive, then you will be sure that your computer will run at its best.

Troubleshooting a Hardware Problem:

1. Gather as much information from the customer as you can, including symptoms, error messages,
computer history, and action at the time of the failure.

2. Try to reproduce the problem, taking note of any error messages or unusual system activity.
3. Determine whether the problem is hardware or software related. Do this by watching error
messages, using the Device Manager, and accessing the hardware using a variety of applications. The
remainder of this exercise assumes that the problem is hardware related.

4. Start with the most accessible component in the affected subsystem, making sure that it has
power and is properly connected.

5. Check the resources of the device and ensure that a device driver has been loaded for it.

6. Test the device by using it in another computer or by using a known working device in its place.

7. Continue testing and checking all components in the subsystem, working your way into the
computer.

8. Finally, test the computer’s most basic components, such as the BIOS, system board, memory, and
processor.

Typical Hazards Threatening the Normal Operation of a PC.

PC’s are exposed to many hazards which include:

a). Electrostatic Discharge (ESD)

Electrostatic discharge or ESD is caused by the buildup of electrical charge on one surface that is
suddenly transferred to another surface when it is touched. This discharge is actually typically
several thousand volts! It just has very little current, which is why it doesn’t kill you, unlike those
high-tension lines with several thousand volts.

While ESD won’t kill you, it can certainly kill your computer components. Especially sensitive to ESD
are integrated circuits: processors, memory, cache chips, and expansion cards. You can deal with
ESD in two basic ways: reducing its buildup, and draining it away so it cannot cause any damage.

One way to reduce the buildup of ESD is to increase the relative humidity of the room where the
computer is located. Static builds up more readily in dry environments than in moist ones; this is why
you get zapped much more often in the winter time in northern climates than in the summer.
Another way to reduce static is to avoid doing the well-known things that cause it: wearing socks on
carpeted floors, etc.

Draining static is usually a simple matter of touching something that is grounded, such as the metal
of your case when it is plugged in. This will drain off any static buildup in your body that might cause
damage to your components.

b). Power Fluctuations

The power supply is one of the most important, but also most ignored pieces of a computer. You
plug it into the outlet and turn it on, what’s the big deal, right? Wrong!
The power supply has to work hard to provide a constant and stable level of electricity to the devices
in your computer without fluctuations. It has to be strong enough to feed all the devices in your
machine, and in some cases, it has to be approved to work with certain parts of your PC such as an
Athlon CPU.

What if it fails?

A power supply doesn’t last forever. Sooner or later they’ll fail. They can last all the way from a few
months to many years, it all depends on the quality, how hard it has to work, and what conditions it
is exposed to (temperature changes, bad electricity, dirt, etc.). The component inside a power supply
that is prone to fail first is the fan. It usually starts with a grinding or high-pitched noise that initially
disappears a few minutes after you turn the PC on, but soon gets worse. Once the fan is dead, the
hot air is not being properly exhausted from the power supply which causes it to overheat and
accelerates its demise. In addition, often the power supply fan also exhausts hot air from the inside
of the computer, and if the fan fails, you lose an important part of cooling. Warning: Don’t try to
replace the power supply fan yourself unless you know what you’re doing! It requires some
soldering and should only be done by somebody who is familiar and comfortable with such a
procedure. I rather recommend replacing the whole unit with a better quality one. When the actual
power supply fails, it can exhibit a number of symptoms. You could experience crashes, data
corruption, or hardware failure. Another thing that could happen is that when you turn on your PC,
the lights and fans come on, but it doesn’t boot, because the BIOS cannot verify a sufficient and
consistent power flow is established before it continues the Power On Self-Test (POST) and the boot
process. Or the PC does not boot at all if the power supply is completely dead and nothing happens
at all when you push the power button

c). Power Surges

The power coming from your wall is rated by the electrical company to be within a certain voltage
range. The nominal voltage for Bahraini circuits is 240 volts. Due to disturbances, distant lightning
strikes, and problems within the electrical grid, on occasion a voltage spike may come down the line.
This is a temporary increase of voltage that can last just a few thousandths of a second, but in this
time the voltage can increase from 240 to 1,000 volts or even higher.

Most computer power supplies are subjected to many of these surges each year, and like with line
noise, most of the better ones can tolerate them to some extent, though it isn’t really great for their
internal components. In some cases, high voltage surges can disrupt or even damage your computer
equipment. In addition, being subjected to many surges over a period of time will slowly degrade
many power supply units and cause them to fail prematurely

d). Backup

There are many ways you can unintentionally lose information on a computer. A child playing the
keyboard like a piano, a power surge, lightning, floods. And sometimes equipment just fails. If you
regularly make backup copies of your files and keep them in a separate place, you can get some, if
not all, of your information back in the event something happens to the originals on your computer.

Deciding what to back up is highly personal. Anything you cannot replace easily should be at the top
of your list. Before you get started, make a checklist of files to back up. This will help you determine
what to back up, and also give you a reference list in the event you need to retrieve a backed-up file.

Here are some file suggestions to get you started:

· Bank records and other financial information

· Digital photographs

· Software you purchased and downloaded from the Internet

· Music you purchased and downloaded from the Internet

· Personal projects

· Your e-mail address book

· Your Microsoft Outlook calendar

· Your Internet Explorer bookmarks

Backup tool in Windows XP helps you to protect your data in case your hard disk fails or files are
accidentally erased. Backup creates a duplicate copy of all the data on your hard disk and then
archive it on another storage device, such as a hard disk or a tape.

e). Viruses and Virus Types

A great number of computer problems can be caused by computer viruses. Effects of a virus could be
minor or severe (fatal), and they might be predictable or sporadic. Unfortunately, diagnosing and
removing viruses can be difficult, and with the increased information exchange brought on by access
to the Internet, viruses are becoming more and more prevalent.

Computer viruses are not caused by corrupted files or internal OS or application flaws. Rather, they
are intentionally created programs, the purpose of which is to cause some effect in the computer
and replicate themselves to be passed on to other computers. The effect that a virus has on a
computer is called its payload. A virus payload could be nondestructive to the computer, meaning
that it could merely display a particular message, run a video clip, or change the display colors.

However, if a payload is destructive, it can delete files, close running applications, or destroy a
drive’s master boot record.

Virus Types:
Many types of computer infestations are actually not viruses at all. A true virus is a piece of code
that attaches itself to an executable file and is not activated until the executable file is launched. A
worm, on the other hand, is a program in itself and does not need to attach itself to a legitimate
application in order to run. Viruses are typically more common than worms.

Viruses can be categorized by where they hide themselves. The most common virus type is the file
virus. File viruses hide themselves in executable files. When the executable file is run, the virus is
activated.

Another virus type is a macro virus. These viruses attach themselves to portions of applications and
disguise themselves as macros. A macro is simply an automated process within an application, such
as reading and automatically updating a date field or searching for and formatting specified

text. Another type of virus is a boot sector virus. This type of virus hides itself in the MBR and is
activated during startup when the MBR is located and initialized.

Sources and Spreading of Viruses:

When a virus is introduced into a computer system, it typically replicates (copies) itself into memory.
From there, it can copy itself into other files in the system. This is an intentional behavior, configured
by the programmer who created the virus. These copies of the virus can then be spread via floppy

disks, downloading files from the Internet, or executing e-mail attachments that launch a host
program, such as a word processor. You can minimize the spread of viruses by using antivirus
programs that scan all new files introduced into the computer system. You should scan all files on
floppies that have been used in other computers, all e-mail messages with attachments, and all files
that you download from the Internet.

Detecting and Removing Viruses:

Unfortunately, even if you take all the precautions we’ve mentioned, you are not immune to
computer viruses. New viruses are created all the time and could be too new for your antivirus utility
to detect. When the computer starts behaving sporadically or begins to unexpectedly crash, close, or
launch applications or lose files, you should suspect a virus and begin troubleshooting the problem
immediately. If you have an antivirus utility, run it and instruct it to perform a virus scan and
removal. A variety of antivirus utilities are available from third parties, such as Norton, Symantec,
and McAffee.

Windows 2000 includes a native antivirus utility called AVBoot. In most cases, antivirus utilities work
by recognizing and removing specific viruses. They are typically useless against viruses that have
been created since the release of the utility itself. For this reason, most third-party virus utility
manufacturers keep an up-to-date list of new viruses and offer upgrades via the Internet. It is
therefore important that you update you antivirus utility’s capabilities often. Furthermore, if you
stay current about new virus types, you are likely to recognize them more quickly if they are
introduced into your system. If an antivirus utility has failed to detect and remove a virus and you
suspect the virus is limited to the boot sector, use the FDISK/MBR command. This command will
replace the infected MBR with a (hopefully) good copy from a floppy disk.
If you are unable to remove a virus before it has caused fatal damage, you will probably have to
reinstall the OS from scratch. It is important in these cases to repartition and reformat the hard drive
because viruses could still exist on the drive (especially in the boot sector).

Vital Computer maintenance tips to protect your device:

Computer maintenance means keeping your computers and laptops in good condition through
regular cleanings, hard drive updates, and virus prevention. Doing so can lengthen the lifespan of
your devices and it can also help you browse the web more safely.

Computers last five to eight years when maintained properly, but that lifespan can erode quickly if a
user doesn’t take steps to protect the hardware. This is why computer maintenance is so important.

1. Dust your keyboard using compressed air

Did you know that researchers have found that the average desktop and keyboard is dirtier than a
toilet seat? That’s why dusting your keyboard off at least once a week can help maintain it (and
reduce health risks). Wipe down your keyboard with a damp lint-free cloth, but be sure not to soak it
in water. For harder to reach areas such as in between the keyboard keys, use a compressed air
canister.

2. Wipe down your monitor

Fingerprints and other stains can appear regularly on your monitor. In order to keep your screen,
view fresh and clean, wipe down your monitor once a week using a dry lint-free cloth. Gently wipe in
long motions as pressing too hard can damage your device. Oftentimes, your computer will come
with a microfiber cleaning cloth upon purchase. Use this cloth or order a similar one for optimal
cleaning.

3. Get rid of your mouse’s dust and particles

Like your keyboard, your mouse needs to be dusted regularly to work properly. To do this, unplug
your mouse and turn it upside down. From there, you’ll want to remove the bottom panel and clean
the ball with a lint-free cloth. You can add rubbing alcohol to the cloth for a deeper clean. Let the
ball dry before reassembling the mouse.

4. Clean your system thoroughly

Every three to six months you should do a thorough cleaning of your entire hardware system. You
can do this in a number of ways, including with a computer vacuum. You’ll want to save and close
any active files before you unplug your device to begin cleaning. From there, you can open the
casing by removing the screws. Don’t vacuum the inside of the computer. Instead, use the
compressed air canister from step #1 on the inside to avoid damage. If you have a laptop,
disassembly will be different than with a traditional computer. Make sure to follow the instructions
that came with your device before you begin taking it apart.

5. Power down or reboot your device regularly

While powering down your device every night isn’t a requirement with new computers, rebooting
regularly does help refresh your system resources. Restarting your computer can also help you free
up memory that was making your device run slowly. If you’re working off an older computer, you
should power down your device properly every night to avoid overheating. If your device is newer,
consider rebooting it once a day instead and turning it to sleep mode when it’s not in use.

6. Defragment the hard drive

Did you know that the disk is the weakest link when it comes to computer performance? This is why
defragging your hard drive once a month is so important. Defragging is the process of reorganizing
the data on your hard drive to speed up file access. It breaks up a file into smaller bits on your
device. While every computer is different, you can usually find Defragment functions under the
System and Security tab in the Control Panel.

7. Backup data

At least once a week you should backup your drive. If you’re working on an important project, you
can do this daily to ensure your files are securely stored. Backing up your data saves important files
in the event of a hard drive failure or system crash.

8. Configure your startup

You should periodically check in on the applications that automatically run at start-up. These
applications can slow down your computer. From the Settings tab, you should be able to navigate to
the Startup to control which applications run.

9. Run disk cleanup

You can free up disk space on your hard drive by running a disk cleanup. This will clean out
temporary files and extra language files as well as delete big attachments and more.

10. Install major computer updates

To keep your applications running safely and efficiently you should check for major computer
updates at least once a month. These updates can be critical for long-term health because they
patch up critical security holes and remove unnecessary features. You may also be able to adjust
your setting so updates happen automatically.

11. Update antivirus software

Whenever an antivirus software update is available, you should run it that day to remove malware.
These updates introduce new software features or make improvements on current ones. Generally,
you can set your system up for automatic updates, but if you ever receive a notification from your
current antivirus software, you should complete the update as soon as possible.

12. Change your passwords regularly

One of the easiest ways for hackers to gain access to your device is through a cyberattack where
they steal your login credentials. Upon gaining access to your device, they can access sensitive
information such as spam emails, banking information, and more. While experts used to recommend
changing passwords every month, this frequency was causing new risks and inconveniences for
users. Updating your password four times a year helps keep you more secure without much hassle.

13. Check for firmware updates

Firmware is a tiny piece of software in your computer that keeps the hardware functioning properly.
Sometimes these updates are included in major computer updates, but you can check for firmware
updates manually on many devices, as well.

14. Complete signature updates

To keep your antivirus software running properly, you’ll want to do signature updates in addition to
software updates. This ensures that your device is protected from new viruses. Many programs
allow you to install these signature updates automatically, but if not you should update weekly.

15. Consider parental controls

If you have kids at home or have other people accessing your device, prevent software from being
downloaded without your consent by setting up parental controls. These controls will require a
password from an administrator to download certain files and software to your device.

16. Move similar files into folders

Keeping files on your desktop can slow down your machine. Instead, organize similar files into
folders where you can easily find them. This will also help streamline the cleaning process when it
comes time to delete unnecessary items.

17. Delete unused programs

Get more memory space by removing unnecessary programs from your device. If you filter your
programs by size, you can see which ones take up the most memory and decide from there what you
can remove.

18. Clear out the Recycling Bin

When you or another user deletes a file, it goes to the Recycling Bin. This gives you one last chance
to salvage a file you’ve removed, but it can also clog up space on your hard drive if you don’t clear it
out regularly. Once a month you should check the Recycling Bin for any files that may have
accidentally been deleted and clear out the rest.

19. Remove temporary internet files

Speed up your computer system by removing temporary internet files and clearing your Cache..
Every browser has a different method for clearing out these cookies. Find directions for your
browser here.

20. Transfer files to the cloud

Cloud storage providers allow you to store gigabytes of space without running down your hard drive
memory. Better yet, it allows you to share your files across multiple devices. As you download files
throughout the day, transfer them to cloud storage to save space on your hard drive.

21. Avoid overheating your device

Set up your computer in an area of your office or home that gets good airflow, with two inches of
empty space on either side. Giving your machine room to breathe helps prevent overheating, which
extends the life of your device. Stacks of paper and other items being placed on your computer can
also make it overheat, so keep your desk area organized and free of clutter.

22. Keep your cords organized

Cable clutter can collect dust and become easily damaged. Cable stations and other cord organizers
can help organize your area. It will also save you time and stress next time you go to unplug your
computer.

23. Don’t overcharge your device

If you’re working off a laptop, it can be tempting to charge the battery all night. While doing so won’t
damage the device, one of the best ways to maintain the battery over an extended period of time is
to unplug it once it reaches 100%. You should also remove the battery altogether if you won’t be
using the device for a month or more to help extend its shelf life.

24. Keep food and drinks away

It can only take one can of soda to destroy a device. As tempting as enjoying a glass of coffee as you
check your morning emails may be, always avoid eating or drinking near your computer to reduce
spillage risk.

25. Avoid spam while browsing

If a weird email shows up in your inbox or an unexpected popup while browsing, resist the urge to
open it. Malware scams can greatly damage your device and put your files and privacy at risk.

TOPIC 2). THE NEED FOR PC UPGRADE

As a rule, one probably wouldn’t build a new PC or upgrade an older one unless he/she is getting at
least a factor of three or four more in performance at a reasonable cost. So, for example, a 600 MHz
system wouldn’t be changed until reasonably-priced systems could be made or purchased that run
at 1.8 GHz to 2.4 GHz or faster. A 2 GHz system wouldn’t be replaced until a reasonably-priced
system could be purchased that runs at 6 GHz or higher. Remember, the longer you can delay
upgrading, the more you’ll

get for your money when you finally do upgrade!

It won’t be a good idea to upgrade from a 1.7 GHz system to a 2 GHz one.

The only exception is when software you want to run demands a better system. Maybe, you want to
play a video-intensive game, and your system just won’t cut it. Or, maybe, you decide you want to
study database development and you install Oracle 9i on your computer, but find you need a faster
PC. Possibly, you decide to produce music videos on your PC, and you find that the best video editing
software runs much better on a faster system. But, unless the software you desire to run demands a
faster, better system, you’ll probably do well to postpone an upgrade or building a new system until
you can get a factor of three in better overall performance.

One of the most items to be continuously upgraded is the RAM, then comes the CPU and sometimes
the mainboard, video card or hard disk.

Sometimes we also need to upgrade the Software in our PC. That means, we install a newer version
of a specific operating system or other applications. Sometimes, this becomes a must since some
newer applications won’t run under an old operating system and also some files of newer versions of
applications won’t run under older versions of the same application. Examples of what we are
talking about are the following: Office2003 can’t be installed in MS Windows98 or previous versions.
Also, a PDF file generated with a new version of Adobe Acrobat Writer won’t be correctly read using
an

earlier version of Adobe Acrobat Reader software.

Recent advancement or development in Hardware

CPU speed: Even when CPUs are the same, clock speed (measured in MHz) effects performance. For
example, a PC with a “classic” Pentium 166MHz CPU will run faster than a PC with a “classic”
Pentium 120MHz CPU. CPU upgrade potential Because CPUs have a finite processing limit, it follows
that upgrading the CPU will improve system processing. Although this is great in theory, you can’t
just place any old CPU in the CPU socket and expect the motherboard to work.
Any motherboard is limited to using a handful of current CPU versions. For example, Intel’s recent
AN430TX motherboard supports Pentium processors at 90, 100, 120, 133, 150, 166, and 200MHz, as
well as Pentium MMX processors running at 166, 200, and 233MHz. By comparison, Intel’s new
NX440LX motherboard supports Pentium II microprocessors operating at 233, 266, and 300MHz.
Changing the processor type and speed requires changes in several jumper settings.

Memory slots: the sheer amount of memory that can be added to the motherboard will indirectly
affect system performance because of a reduced dependence on virtual memory (a swap file on the
hard drive). Memory is added in the form of SIMMs (Single In-line Memory Modules) or DIMMs
(Dual In-line Memory Modules). Motherboards that can accept more or larger-capacity memory
modules will support more memory. It is not uncommon today to find motherboards that will
support 512MB of RAM (equal to the storage capacity of older hard drives).

Memory types: the type of memory will also have an effect on motherboard (and system)
performance. Faster memory will improve system performance. DRAM remains the slowest type of
PC memory, and is usually used in older systems or video boards.

EDORAM is faster than ordinary DRAM, and is now commonplace in PCs. SDRAM is measurably

faster than EDO RAM, and is appearing in high-to-mid-range PC applications. By the time you read
this book, SDRAM should be common. RDRAM is an emerging memory type that should gain broad
acceptance in the next few years. It is not necessary for you to understand what these memory
types are yet; just understand that memory performance and system performance are related.

Cache memory traditional RAM is much slower than a CPU—so slow that the CPU

must insert pauses (or “wait states”) for memory to catch up. Cache is a technique of improving

memory performance by keeping a limited amount of frequently used information in VERY fast
cache RAM. If the needed information is found, the CPU reads the cache at full speed (and
performance is improved because less time is wasted). By making the cache larger, it is possible to
hold more “frequently used” data. Older motherboards used from 128KB to 256KB of cache. Current
motherboards use 512KB to 1MB of cache RAM.

Chipsets: A chipset is a set of highly optimized, tightly inter-related ICs which, taken together,

handle virtually all of the support functions for a motherboard. As new CPUs and

hardware features are crammed into a PC, new chipsets must be developed to implement
those functions. For example, the Intel 430HX chipset supports the Pentium CPU and

EDO RAM. Their 430VX chipset supports use of the Pentium CPU, the Universal Serial

Limitations of a PC and Scope for Upgrading

Upgrading is a term used to describe updating a software program or adding a new hardware.
Software upgrade allows a user to get the latest version of a software program at a discounted price
and not have to purchase the full product. For example, a user running Microsoft Windows 95 could
purchase the Microsoft Windows 98 upgrade for a low price when compared to the full version of
Windows 98. Below is a few reasons and benefits of upgrading your software products to the latest
version.

A hardware upgrade often involves removing an old hardware device and replacing it with a new
hardware device. For example, replacing an 8MB PCI video card with a 32MB AGP video card would
be considered an upgrade. A hardware upgrade such as a memory upgrade may not require a user
to remove the memory from the computer because of the availability of additional expansion slots.
Below is a few reasons and benefits a user should expect to see when upgrading a hardware device.

1. Performance increase. The majority of the hardware upgrades performed are done to increase the
performance of the computer.

2. Capacity increase. Users may upgrade or add a new device to increase the overall capacity of the
computer. For example, adding a new hard drive to allow the computer to store more information.
Or increase the memory to increase the ability of what programs can be opened and also at the
same time increase the performance.

3. Compatibility. A user may upgrade one or more components in their computer to be able to run
or use a software program.

TOPIC 3). HOW TO CHOOSE HARDWARE COMPONENTS FOR UPGRADING

List of basic PC components and their functions for desktop computer:

1. The computer Case

This component holds all of the physical parts of a computer system.

It is usually designed in such a manner to make fitting for a motherboard, wiring, primary and
secondary storage devices, CD or DVD drives, USB ports and Audio jack etc. Computer case comes in
different sizes that support one or more motherboard sizes. Small form factors are limited to
support small mini-ITX motherboards, while mini or small-Tower cases cater to micro-ATX
motherboards but mini Tower cases are the most popular and are able to house larger ATX
motherboards.

• Smallest form factor or Mini-Tower: Supports only Mini-ITX motherboards (Information

Technology Extended)

• Small form factor or Micro-Tower: Supports Micro-ATX motherboards. (Advanced

Technology Extended)

• Standard form factor or Mid-Tower: Supports standard ATX motherboards.

• Large form factors or Full-Tower: Supports XL-ATX motherboards.

2. Motherboard

The motherboard is the main board mounted directly inside the computer case. It is a printed circuit
board in which the CPU, RAM, drives, power supply, expansion cards, are plugged.

Its function involves integrating all the physical components to communicate and operate together.

Motherboards come in the following sizes:

Motherboard Dimensions

Pico-ITX (piko) 3.9-inch x 2.9 inch | 100mm x 72mm

Nano-ITX 4.7-inch x 4.7 inch | 120mm x 120mm

Mini-ITX 6.7-inch x 6.7 inch | 170mm x 170mm

Micro-ATX 9.6-inch x 9.6 inch | 244mm x 244mm

Standard-ATX 12-inch x 9.6 inch | 305mm x 244mm

XLarge-ATX 13.5-inch x 10.3 inch | 343mm x 262mm

Motherboard main components

a). CPU socket: This is where the central processing unit (CPU) is installed. This central of the
motherboard is the computer’s “brain,” where data is processed and transferred.
b). BIOS and CMOS: The basic input-output system (BIOS) and complementary metal oxide
semiconductor (CMOS) are critical components that maintain regular operations when the computer
is active or unpowered. The BIOS chips store all the motherboard’s settings. Sometimes, computer
manufacturers release updates to increase the component’s operational capacity. The BIOS chip
contains a basic code that takes a computer through the boot process. This starts with a boot loader.
Next, the operating system (OS) kernel is initialized. As long as there are no issues, the OS takes over.

This chip requires constant power to function, which is where the CMOS comes in. The small battery
maintains the data’s integrity when the computer is shut down or unplugged. Should the CMOS fail,
the system can lose vital data concerning hardware and disc drives. When this happens, an OS error
occurs.

c). Power connector: The power connector is where the main power supply is attached. This
generates power for the motherboard and all its components. Normally, 20 or 24-pins compose the
connection. Newer models have additional four- and eight-pin connectors to supply additional
power.

d). Voltage regulator module: A voltage regulator module (VRM) is also known as a processor power
module (PPM). It has a similar operation mode as the computer’s power supply unit (PSU). The
VRM’s job is to reduce the electronic potential between two points. As a result, it provides the CPU
with the amount of voltage it needs. There are two parts of a VRM system on the motherboard. The
first is metal-oxide-semiconductor field-effect transistors (MOSFET). These are recognizable as flat
rectangle components normally located around a CPU socket. The MOSFET provides the CPU with
the exact voltage it needs.

The second component are chokes, which sit beside the MOSFET. Their job is to stabilize currents
and capacitors if a sudden voltage spike takes place. Motherboards that have a strong resistance to
electrical surges contain several chokes. Each one equates to better stability.

e). Memory slots: Located on the motherboard’s right-hand corner, memory slots house the
random-access memory (RAM) modules. The number of slots varies depending on the board model.
It can be as low as two and as high as eight slots.

Memory slots on modern computers are:

A single in-line memory module (SIMM), which has been a standard since the 1980s.

A dual in-line memory module (DIMM).

A double data rate (DDR) module. A fourth-generation model has recently replaced the third-
generation version.

f). ROM chip: While RAM cards are temporarily used to store data while the computer is active,
read-only memory (ROM) chips are critical to the device’s start. It’s where information needed to
kick off initialization processes is stored. Furthermore, ROM retains its contents when the machine is
shut down. Conversely, data stored in RAM is lost when the computer is shut down.
g). Video card slot: The video card slot is used for a circuit board that handles images and colors on a
desktop or laptop. In modern motherboards, this takes the form of peripheral component
interconnect express (PCI-Express). It permits quicker processing and sharper images than the
previous accelerated graphics port (AGP).

Motherboards on lower-end PCs might have embedded components rather than a video card slot.
On the other hand, high-end gaming systems come with multiple slots for enhanced graphics.

Ports available on a video card might include ones for:

high-definition multimedia interface (HDMI)

digital visual interface (DVI) to connect a controller to a computer monitor display port

USB-C to carry data and power in one cable

Audio card slot

h). Expansion slots: Motherboard expansion slots allow you to add new PCI-compatible components.
These tend to expand a PC’s functionality. Some examples that might be added are:

A video capture card

Sound card

Enhanced video card

A card for additional USB ports

The number of expansion slots depends on the motherboard’s design. As opposed to standard
models on PCs and laptops, larger models have more slots available.

I). Northbridge and southbridge: At the lower-right bottom of modern motherboards is a square
piece of metal called a heat sink. It provides thermal protection for the northbridge and southbridge,
which are critical in maintaining proper computer operations.

The northbridge coordinates data flow among the memory, the video card, and the CPU. A second
chip, known as the Southbridge, handles the data flow among the processor and peripherals such as
sound or network cards.

Today’s CPUs have a built-in northbridge. This allows them to operate more quickly and reduce the
latency seen on older computers. The southbridge chip is still on the physical motherboard. It’s
usually covered by the heatsink. Therefore, its temperature remains steady during normal PC
operations.

j). Front I/O connectors: These connectors are where items such as the power switch, LED power
indicator, and reset switch exist. Additionally, these connectors handle audio and USB ports.
Normally, they’re located along the bottom of the motherboard.

k). IDE and SATA ports: Integrated drive electronics (IDE) and serial advanced technology attachment
(SATA) ports provide connections for a storage device. This includes an optical drive that plays and
writes to CDs, DVDs, and Blu-ray discs. Also known as rear I/O connectors, older motherboards
contain IDE ports. Conversely, SATA interfaces, which are faster, are the new standard. These ports
tend to be color-coded to represent different peripherals. For instance:

A microphone is represented by a pink 3.5mm jack port.

Speakers and wired headsets are displayed with a dark green 3.5mm jack port.

Monitors used to be represented by a solid blue video graphics array (VGA) connector. Newer
motherboards use black or white HDMI and DVI ports as standards.

An ethernet network cable doesn’t have a color.

A wired keyboard and mouse use six-pin PS/2 ports that are lavender and purple, respectively.

L). Network card slot: The network interface card (NIC) is added to the network card slot. This
connects to an RJ-45 port in the rear of the computer. This has a similar shape to an old-style phone
jack. It is used to connect to a local area network (LAN) or the internet.

m). Modem card slot: Though modems are an older technology, motherboard manufacturers still
include a slot for this equipment. With connectors in the rear of the computer, users can connect to
a telephone line to access the internet.

3. Central Processing Unit (CPU)

The CPU or central processing unit is basically like the brain of computer systems. It processes all the
information on a computational level.

It takes all the processes from the RAM and processes them to perform the tasks required by the
computer system.

The faster the processor, the more instructions it can execute at any given time. The central
processing unit is usually seated in a socket that utilizes a lever or a latch with a hinged plate with a
cut-out in the center to secure the CPU onto the motherboard.

It has many copper pads underneath it for the socket contacts to push up against them to make
electrical contact.

A processor generates a decent amount of heat This is why a heatsink and fan assembly are required
to draw the heat away from the central processing unit and distribute it to thin sheets or fins of
metal for the fan to cool down.

There are so many different types of computer processors. The largest manufacturers of processors
are Intel, AMD, and NVidia.

Types of Intel Processors

a). Intel Celeron processors: Intel Celeron processors are a line of desktop and laptop CPUs based on
the Pentium 4-core chip. They have less cache memory and reduced speeds, making them a much
more affordable choice for those who stick to browser-based activities and non-processor-heavy
applications. The first Intel Celeron processor appeared in 1998, with new generations regularly
since then. The newest Celeron processors are the Celeron N4500 and Celeron N5100, with clock
speeds of 1.1 GHz and 1.8 GHz, and burst speeds of 2.8 GHz. Ex: Celeron N, Celeron G4, Celeron G5.

b). Intel Pentium processors: Intel Pentium processors are mid-to-entry level CPUs that deliver high
value at more modest price points than the Core and Xeon processor lines. These chips manage
similar clock speeds to the more robust Core chips. Ex: Pentium Silver, Pentium Gold, Pentium M.

c). Intel Xeon processors: Intel Xeon processors are the brand’s line of business CPUs. They have
comparable clock speeds to the Core family of processors. Where they shine is their support for ECC
error-correcting memory, which is a must for critical computing applications, like financial or
scientific computing. Ex: Xeon Bronze, Xeon Silver, Xeon Gold, Xeon Platinum, Xeon E (embedded),
Xeon W (workstation).

d). Intel Core processors: Intel Core processors are Intel’s flagship family of CPUs. First released in
2006, they replaced the popular Pentium line as the standard for high-end processor chips. They’re
available in different models like Core i3, i5, i7, i9, and X, and they bring a new generation to market
every 1 to 2 years.

As a rule, the higher the Core “i” number, the better the chip; and the newer the generation, the
better the chip.

So, an Intel Core I7 processor will give higher performance than an Intel Core i5 chip, and an 11th
Generation Core i9 chip performs better (with more features) than a 10th Generation Core i9 chip.

Generations of Intel Core Processor

11th Generation: Core i9-11, i7-11, Core i5-11, Core i3-11

10th Generation: Core i9-10, i7-10, Core i5-10, Core i3-10

9th Generation: Core i9-9, Core i7-9, Core i5-9, Core i3-9

4. Random Access Memory (RAM)

RAM is a data storage device that can provide fast read and write access. RAM is volatile memory,
meaning it loses all the stored data when power is lost.

The RAM keeps data ready for the CPU to process and its speed is a big contributor to the overall
speed of a computer system.

It plugs directly into a long slot that has contacts on either side of the slot.
RAM has evolved like any other component. RAM used on the motherboard often uses DDR (Double
Data Rate) SDRAM (Synchronous Dynamic Random-Access Memory) type memory.

RAM comes in different sizes:

Rated from 512 Mb, 1 GB, 2 GB, 4 GB, 8 GB, 16 GB

5. Graphics Card or Graphics Processing Unit (GPU)

A Graphics card (Video Card) is an output device that processes the data from the motherboard and
sends the appropriate information to the computer’s screen for display.

You can connect monitors to it using HDMI, DisplayPort, DVI, or VGA connectors.

It can also be referred to as a video or display card. A video card takes the burden of all the video
processing from the main CPU. This gives a computer a big boost in performance

A video card is plugged into a PCI (Peripheral Component Interconnect) Express slot on the
motherboard. It is a serial expansion bus slot capable of high bandwidth in two directions.

A graphics card has a GPU (Graphics Processing Unit), the main part of a computer system that
requires cooling.

A GPU is slower than a CPU but is designed to deal with mathematical operations required for video
rendering.

6. Sound Card

Sound cards are plug into a computer in multiple ways. It can be through USB or PCI slot.

External DACs (Digital to Analog Converter) have gained popularity and help deliver clearer and more
defined audio or high-definition sound output.

They connect up using cable like a USB cable to your computer or laptop and provide a line out for
your speakers or headphones.

A sound processing chip on the card does all of the audio processing and is usually not a very
powerful processor.

A sound card can offer a wide range of connectivity with audio equipment.
7. Hard Disk Drive (HDD)

A hard drive is still found in many PCs to this day. A mechanical drive’s purpose is to store all your
information for retrieval at any time.

Apart from storing information for your computer, hard disk drives also function as a boot drive to
run the operating system (OS) from it. You can install operating systems of many different kinds
depending on your needs.

An OS is a software program installed, making a computer useable, like Microsoft Windows. hard
drive is physically fragile nature. One wrong bump can destroy the whole drive. A mechanical hard
drive contains one or more platters that spin anywhere between 5200 to 10000 RPM (revolutions
per minute). The read and write heads are about 0.002 inches from the platter.

There are various categories of hard drives made for various real-world applications.

Some examples include:

●General use for desktops or laptops.

●Gaming optimized for desktops or laptops.

●General high-capacity storage.

●Servers.

●Video recording.

They can also be purchased as an external drive that usually connects to your computer by USB
cable.

We have 2 types of HDD namely:

● SATA connector HDD

● PATA connector HDD

Serial/Parallel Advanced Technology Attachment

8. Solid State Drive (SSD)

An SSD is also a type of hard drive, but it doesn’t have any moving bits. It consists of a bank of flash
memory that can hold a reasonable amount of information.

While the capacity of SSDs is increasing, they aren’t cost-effective for storing large amounts.

A mechanical drive has a cheaper gigabyte-to-dollar ratio.

However, the SSD is a high-performance drive. It’s fast and cannot be as easily damaged by dropping
it or taking a few bumps.

9. Power Supply Unit (PSU)

A power supply unit mounts inside the computer case. It converts the AC mains supply from the
power cord from a wall socket and supplies the correct DC voltages to all the parts of a computer.

Wall outlets generate about 110–120 v, AC (volts, Alternating Current). However, computers require
comparatively smaller voltages of about ±12, ±5, or ±3.3 v, DC (volts, Direct Current).

It plays an important role in keeping a computer running reliably. You get different wattage ratings
for power supplies. The higher the wattage, the higher the electrical current that can be made
available to everything that needs it to function properly. The higher you go in Watts, the more the
power supply will likely cost. A power supply usually also comes with a cooling fan. This helps all the
internal components in your computer to stay cool when the power supply is subjected to bigger
loads.

Types of Computer Power Supply:

1. ATX Power Supply: It’s one of the most popular power supplies available on the market. The
standard dimensions for the ATX are 150x140x86 mm. but the dimensions may vary slightly.

2. ITX Power Supply: The are much smaller and more compact than the standard ATX, there
dimensions are 150x40x85 mm.

3. SFX Power Supply: This type of power supply is slightly smaller than ATX’s it also comes in Large-
SFX version. its dimensions are usually 63.5x125x100 mm. they have much small fans mounted on
them.

4. TFX Power Supply: It’s the smallest available computer power supply on the market. Its
dimensions are 175x85x65 mm.

Power Supply Connectors

1. 24-Pin Power Connector for motherboards (P1)

2. 4-Pin CPU Power connector (P4)

3. 6 or 8-Pin PCI Express Power Connector for graphics card (usually black)

3. SATA Power Connector is used to power mass storage devices such as Hard Drives, Solid State
Drives, and Optical Drives (usually black and flat)

4. MOLEX-4-PIN Power Connector can be found on old power supply used for powering Fans for PC.

10. Monitor

Monitor is an output device to visualize the graphics information sent from the computer’s GPU.

(graphics processing unit) There are various types of Monitors available in the market:

1. CRT Monitor (Cathode Ray Tube): These are older, significantly heavier and take up more space
than every other monitor. It’s an outdated technology, it consumes high amount of energy.

2. Plasma Monitor: This monitor panel uses minuscule coloured fluorescent lights that produces
image pixels. A plasma display is thinner because it is flat rather than slightly curved.

3. LCD (Liquid Crystal Display): This is the most widely used monitor worldwide. It generates less
heat than CRT monitors.

4. LED (Light Emitting Diode): These monitors consist of light-emitting diodes rather than cathode
fluorescent lamps found in older monitors. It has up to 4k resolutions. It consumes less power than
LCD.

5. OLED Monitor (Organic Light Emitting Diode): This is the most recent type of monitor that uses
organic materials such as Carbon, Plastic, Wood, and Polymers to transform electric current into
light. It has excellent contrast levels, excellent picture quality, and are more expensive.

There are also various computer screen sizes with different aspect ratios. The aspect ratio is simply
the ratio between height and width.

11. Keyboard

A keyboard is an input device that is one of the ways to communicate with a computer. Typing a key
from the keyboard sends a small portion of information to tell it which key was pressed.

Once the computer receives input from the keyboard, it can use the keystrokes in digital form to
produce a specific task in any software being used.

The computer system can use this information in many ways. An example could be a command or a
character that can be used in a document.

Types of Keyboard
1. Normal Windows compatible keyboard

2. Multimedia Keyboard

This is a keyboard which is provided with some additional or hot keys to take advantage of the
internet.

3. Ergonomic Keyboard

This is a keyboard designed to keep the hands in a natural position that helps avoid repetitive stress
injuries to the wrists

4. Cordless Keyboards

These keyboards do not make use of any cord or cable connection. This communicates the data
using radio frequency and is operated by a battery. The distance at which the key board can be used
is around 15 feet.

5. Projection keyboards.

These are the latest types of keyboards. These are virtual keyboards that can be projected

and touched on any surface. The keyboard watches your fingers move and translates that action into
keystrokes in the device.

12. Mouse

Mouse is an input device that allows the user to move a pointer displayed on the monitor and
experience a more intuitive interaction with computer systems.

However, a mouse has three main buttons which allows users to select, grab, scroll, and access extra
menus and options.

A computer mouse is a handy pointing device that can be wired or wireless. The latter requires
batteries.

Optical mice of today allow for very accurate precision and smooth movement.

Laptops have a built-in trackpad, which works almost like a mouse.

Types of Mouse
1. Optical Mouse: Uses LED light and sensor to detect movement

2. Laser Mouse: Uses laser to detect movement and provide higher precision.

3. Trackball Mouse: It’s an old type of technology that the mouse uses a ball place underneath it for
movement while the user rotates the mouse.

4. Wireless Mouse: This type of mouse does not require any cable for connections, it connects via
Bluetooth or a wireless USB receiver that is connected to the PC.

5. Touchpad Or Trackpoint: This is a built-in input device on laptops, uses touch gesture to control
the cursor.

Technical Specifications for PC Upgrading:

When someone wants to do a system upgrade, he must think of a systematic

procedure to do the process. This involves the following:

(1). To open the case of the PC.

When someone wants to upgrade a PC the first step will be to open the case and inspect what’s
inside there. Some cases are opened using Philips screwdrivers, others using Flat.

When the case is opened may be the following picture or something like it will show up.

The computer case holds all the internal parts of your PC. Many case variations are available
including tower cases, mid-tower cases, and desktop models.

(2). How to make a list of components to upgrade:

As stated before, we may upgrade the RAM, Processor, VGA card, Mainboard, Hard disk or more
than one of them. So, we must be specific when choosing what to upgrade.

(3). to get prepared for a component change (obtaining the required hardware/

software tools and components):

This means that when you want to change a component of the listed-above you must make sure of
you want to change and get a replacement of it. You must put in mind that the new replacement will
be better than the older one and compatible with the other components in your PC.

(4). The next step will be to check and verify that the new component meets the requirements you
want.

For example, if you replaced a VGA card to run some application, then the first thing to do is to test
if this application is really run using the new card. An important thing to remember here is that when
you want to change the CPU, sometimes you must change some settings in board jumpers and the
BIOS. In modern systems, these are automatic.

(5). The enclosure is the most obvious and least glamorous element of a PC. Yet, the enclosure

serves some very important functions. First, the enclosure forms the mechanical foundation (chassis)
of every PC. Every other sub-assembly is bolted securely to this chassis. Second, the chassis is
electrically grounded through the power supply. Grounding prevents the buildup or discharge of
static electricity from damaging other sub-assemblies. Whenever you work inside of a PC, be sure to
use a properly grounded anti-static wrist strap to prevent electrostatic discharge

from your body from accidentally damaging circuitry inside the system. If you do not

have an anti-static wrist strap handy, you can discharge yourself on the PC’s metal chassis

in front slots (or external drive bays), and one or two drives mounted inside the PC (in internal drive
bays). An average-sized enclosure,

such as this, allows a fair amount of space to expand the system as your customer’s needs

change.

The great advantage to tower enclosures is their larger physical size. Towers usually offer

4 or 5 external drive bays, as well as 3 or 4 internal bays. To accommodate such expandability,

a large power supply (250 to 300 watts) is often included. Tower cases can also fit larger
motherboards, which tend to support a greater number of expansion slots.

The higher power demands of a tower system result in greater heat generation. Towers

compensate for heat by providing one or more internal fans to force air into the enclosure.

If a second internal fan is included, it generally works in conjunction with the first fan to

exhaust heated air.

TOPIC 4). HOW TO REPLACE COMPUTER COMPONENTS

Basic Hardware Maintenance Tools:

Soldering Iron

This is a hand tool used in soldering, it supplies heat to melt solder so that it can flow into the joint
between two workpieces.

Pliers

It enables the user to perform the combined operation, that is, cutting and gripping. Some
combination pliers have other additions, especially if they are designed for use in particular
industries or for specific tasks.

Cutter

This belongs to the family of pliers and cutter. It is used in printed circuit board and to cut fine wire.
It is sharp enough and hence cannot damage the other nearby wires.

Screw driver
Screwdriver is a hand held tool, commonly used for inserting and removing of screw. Screwdriver is
made up of a bit and handle. Bits are detachable according to the use and are made up of metal,
whereas handle is made up of insulating material.

Multimeter

It is used to test the integrity of circuits and the quality of electricity in computer components. A
digital multimeter displays the information on an LCD or LED.

Wire Stripper

It is a portable handheld tool used by workers, especially electricians, for removing the protective
coating of an electric wire in order to replace or repair the wire. It is also capable of stripping the end
portions of an electric wire in order to connect them to other wires or to terminals. A wire stripper is
often considered an important tool for professional electricians and other related personnel.

a). Replacing the Computer Case:

Case Connectors and Switches

Other connectors from the case don’t supply power, but they connect the front panel of the
computer case to the mainboard. These connectors are thin wires with little connectors on the ends
that plug into pins on the mainboard for example, to turn the computer on and off, there is an on-off
switch on the case.

The small Power SW wire connects the power button on the case to the mainboard to let the
mainboard know when you want the PC to turn on or off. This small two-pin connector may be
plugged-in in either direction on the mainboard.

Examine your mainboard manual carefully to determine the proper pins to connect these thin-wire
case panel connectors to. Also examine your mainboard carefully before installing it in the case,

Most of these other small, thin-wire connectors are also ambidextrous. The thin-wire connectors
typically include:

o Power Switch (P SW): This can be connected in either direction to the proper two pins on the
mainboard. It turns the computer on and off.

o Reset Switch (Reset): This can be connected in either direction to the proper two pins on the
mainboard. If Ctrl+Alt+Del doesn’t work to reboot your hung-up PC, you can always use the reset
switch to restart your computer. There should be a small reset button on the front of your case.
Using the reset switch is more desirable than turning a PC on and off again rapidly. Always wait a
couple of minutes after turning a PC completely off before turning it on again. This prevents a surge
of current and charge from hitting components that may not have drained

their existing charge yet.

o Power LED: LED stands for Light-Emitting Diode. These are the little Blinky things on the front of
your computer case. LEDs light up when a small current pass through them in the correct direction.
The power LED goes on when the system is powered up. The small current to light the LED is
provided by the mainboard.

o HD LED: This front case panel LED blinks when the hard drive is active. If this connector is installed
in the wrong direction, your computer will work fine except your hard drive LED probably won’t light
up or it will remain on rather than blinking with activity. If you notice that it isn’t working, just
reorient the connector.

o Speaker connection: This connects the small case speaker to the mainboard.
b). Replacing the Computer power supply unit

Power Supply Unit

1. from Power Unit to Motherboard

2. Feeding Mass Storage Unit

Removing a Power Supply

1. Remove the two power connectors (P8 and P9) from the system board, using the plastic
connector, not the wires.

2. Remove the power connectors from all other components, including the hard, floppy, and CD-
ROM drives.

3. Remove the screws that hold the power supply to the chassis. Do not remove the screws from the
power supply case itself!

4. Slide the power supply away from the computer. Reverse this procedure to install a power supply.
It is important to note that the P8 and P9 connectors look almost identical. Although each will attach
to the system board only one way, it is possible to place them beside each other the wrong way.
When attaching them to the system board, make sure the black wires of the connectors are
together.

c). Replacing the Computer Motherboard

Step 1 remove the old motherboard:

The first step to replacing a motherboard in

a desktop computer is to remove the old

motherboard. That may sound trivial, but

it’s literally half of the job, and I’m splitting

removal and installation onto two pages so

it doesn’t get too big. In order to remove the

motherboard, you not only have to

disconnect all connections between the

motherboard and components in the case,

you should also remove any cables that are

simply in the way. Remember to touch the

metal edge of the case to ground yourself

from time to time. Some techs like to leave

the power supply plugged in for a ground,

but that’s pretty crazy with ATX

technology, since if the switch on the back

of the supply goes on, the power supply will be live. I unplug the power supply and avoid dancing on
the rug to generate static electricity. We start by removing the 1x4 power connector from the hard
drives.

Next, we remove the data cable from the

hard drives. In a larger case, I might have

left the data cables installed on the drive

end, but there’s very little clearance

between the motherboard and the drive

cages, and you don’t want to start wrestling

the old motherboard out because you didn’t

prepare properly. It’s just like working on a

car, if you don’t get enough stuff out of the

way to have room to get a wrench in and

see what you’re doing, you’re just wasting

time in the long run. Keep in mind that

we’re replacing the motherboard, not just taking the old one out, and you don’t want to bash the
new motherboard around as you’re installing it.
Now it’s time to remove the PCI adapters

and the video card. All of the adapters that

mount in motherboard slots are secured to

the back rail of the case with single screw

each, though the screws are often missing in

systems that have been worked on. You

may as well take all the screws out at the

same time and put them aside in a glass or

any other small container to keep them from

getting too lost.

You should always handle adapters by the

the edges and by the metal bracket when

removing them from the motherboard.

Again, you can’t race through this part like

you’re just waiting to get to the main

course, because you’re going to need to put

all these adapters back in after you replace

the motherboard, unless the new

motherboard has those features integrated in

the I/O core. You should especially avoid

touching the gold contacts on the card edge

that pulls out of the motherboard slots,

because the oil from your fingers is an

electrical insulator.

Standard ATX motherboards feature a

single 10x2, 20 pin connectors for the power

supply. The connection features a sort of a

simple latch which is released from the nub

on the motherboard connector by

depressing the top of the latch (just below

my thumb). You can also see the nub on the

motherboard connector, on the side near the

motherboard edge. It can take a bit of force

to pull the connection out of the

motherboard even once it’s release, since

there are 20 tight connection, so be

prepared to use your off hand to hold the

motherboard down if the edge lifts as you remove the connector.

Now we get to removing the data cables

from the old motherboard. If we had more

room in the case, I would have left them

attached to the drives on the other end. If

you have trouble remembering where

everything goes when you go to install the

new motherboard, I’d recommend the book

I write for McGraw-Hill, “Build Your Own

PC,” which uses extensive photographic

illustrations to detail the complete assembly

of three state-of-the-art PCs. Note that I’m

using both hands to pull out the ribbon

cable, holding it as near to the connector as

possible. High quality ribbon cables often include a pull loop or tab so you can remove them without
stressing the cable.

The motherboard is actually mounted in the

case with a series of screws through the

motherboard, seven in this case, all of

which must be removed. About the worst

thing that can happen when you’re replacing

a motherboard is that one of the screws will

turn and turn without releasing. Normally,

this is due to the screw having been overtightened

in a brass standoff, which comes

unscrewed from the motherboard pan and

remains attached to the screw. If you think

this is happening, proceed to removing the

rest of the screws first so you won’t place

undo strain on the motherboard by flexing it up. If the standoff thread in the motherboard pan is
stripped, you can take off the other side of the case and grab it with vise grips from the back.

The final set of connections we have to deal

with are the front panel leads that attach to

the motherboard. This includes the LEDs

for hard drive activity and power status, the

case speaker, and most importantly, the

power switch. ATX systems use a logic

switch to tell the motherboard, which is

always receiving a trickle of power from the

ATX power supply, to power full on. These

are all small format connectors that easily

pull off, and frankly, the power switch is

the only one you really need to reconnect

when you replace the motherboard, the

others are bells and whistles.

Once all the connections to the motherboard

are removed and the screws are all out, you

can lift the motherboard a little and pull it

away from the back of the case, where the

connectors of the I/O core protrude through

the shield (left). Once you disengage the

I/O core, you can lift the motherboard right

out of the case. I usually hold onto a PCI

slot and the CPU heatsink, there’s just no

room to get your fingers on the edges of the

motherboard in most cases (below). That

pretty much covers the removal phase of

replacing a motherboard, so skip over to

how to install a new motherboard

Step 2 Assemble the new motherboard:

The process of replacing the motherboard began

with removing the old motherboard. Now it’s time to compare the old motherboard with the
replacement motherboard to see how the physically match. I’ve pulled the I/O core shield out of the
back of the case, and I’ve placed it on the I/O core of the old motherboard. You can see (if the flash
isn’t blinding you:-) that the old I/O core didn’t have a game port or integrated sound, which the
new motherboard supports. New motherboards should always ship with their own I/O shield, but
with a second-hand replacement like we’re using here, you have to make due. Fortunately, the old
I/O shield has punch-outs in the proper locations.

You need to exercise a bit of common sense when

removing sharp pieces of tin from a flimsy shield.

While pliers may seem like a good idea, you want to control the amount of force carefully, it doesn’t
take much to stretch the shield so that it will never fit on the motherboard I/O core properly. I
worked the game port covers out with my fingers, and now I’m using a screwdriver to pop out the
tabs over the sound jacks for mic, line and speakers. Once the metal tab is standing up, one or two
bends is enough to break it off.

After we double check that the I/O shield now fits

over the new I/O core, we install it in the case. It’s

always a two-handed job, the only thing that secures

the shield is the spring force on the dimples around

the edges, and of course, the motherboard, once the

ports protrude through the shield. You need to get

the shield firmly fixed in place because otherwise it will just slip when you’re trying to align the
motherboard ports and making installing the motherboard a pain.

Here I’ve stood the new motherboard up in the case

to compare the locations of the holes in the

motherboard with the standoffs in the case. In this

particular instance, it happens that all seven of the

installed standoffs aligned properly with holes in the motherboard (thanks to a standard ATX form
factor) so we didn’t have to do anything. The main trick is to count the standoffs before installing the
motherboard, count out a like number of screws, and make sure you use all of them to secure the
motherboard.

The motherboard is installed into the case on an

angle, with the back edge and the I/O core going

first. Once the I/O core is properly aligned with the

shield, you can push the ports through the openings

and set the motherboard down on the standoffs.

Check for wires and cables having been caught

below the motherboard before you start securing it with screws.

We counted out seven screws to match the number of standoffs in the case, and now we are going
to use every one of those screws to secure the motherboard. If there’s a screw leftover when you’re
done, it means that there’s a metal standoff that didn’t end up under a hole in the motherboard,
and is probably waiting for you to plug in the power and burn up the replacement motherboard. In
other words, if you didn’t use up all the screws, take the motherboard back out and count again. If
you counted right, you need to visually inspect the motherboard and the standoff locations, figure
out which one isn’t being used, and remove it.

I like to make the most important motherboard

connection first, and that’s the power switch. It’s

normally labeled “PW SW” or “Power SW” and the

motherboard will be labeled with “PW SW”, “PON”

“PW” or something similarly cryptic. You

won’t hurt anything if you attach the power switch to the wrong connector in the block, but you
won’t get the PC to turn on either. I went ahead and connected the rest of the front panel leads to
the motherboard, but you really don’t need to. Nobody uses reset switches or keyboard locks
anymore, most motherboards have a built-in piezoelectric speaker, and who cares about LED’s.

Now it’s time to load the adapters back in, in no

particular order. I did the PCI adapters first, starting

with the modem, and I even reinstalled the sound

card even though the replacement motherboard had

integrated sound. Last was the AGP adapter, which

fortunately, was compatible with the new

motherboard. If you were doing a serious

motherboard upgrade, with PCI Express or AGP 8X video, you’d need a new video card as well.
As soon as all the adapter are in place, secure them

all with a single hold down screw on the back rail. It pays to do them all at once since the exact

dimensions of each card and motherboard vary a

little, which means if you installed the adapters and

secured them one at a time, you might have to

loosen the screws up later to get another adapter to

seat in the motherboard. Just make sure you inspect the way the adapters are seated in the
motherboard when you’re done, that inserting the screw didn’t force the back of the adapter down
so far that the front popped out, especially with AGP cards.

Standard ATX motherboards all use the 20 pin ATX

power connector, but newer motherboards for

Pentium 4 and Athlon 64 will always require at least

one more connection, often a 2x2 12V header,

sometimes an addition 1x4 lead, as the type used for

the drives
All that’s left is reconnecting all the drive cables,

power and data, that we undid when removing the

old motherboard (left). The recent ATA ports are

color coded for use with 80 wire cables and auto

selecting master/slave on ATA drives. If you have

serial ATA (SATA) drives, it’s even easier, just one

slim data cable per drive. Plenty more details for the individual component is available in the other
replacing parts pages on this site if you get a little lost. Below we finish the job off with a cable tie,
just to neaten up the case a little and encourage better air circulation.

c). Replacing the Computer CPU

One of the most items that is continuously upgraded is the processor (CPU).

When choosing to upgrade a CPU you must know the performance of it compared to

the older one. For instance, you should not replace an Intel 2.4 GHz CPU with 512 KB

cache memory with an Intel 2.8 GHz with 256 cache.

Despite the high clock speeds and high heat dissipation of modern CPU, out-and-out CPU failure is a
fairly rare occurrence. Replacing a CPU
isn’t particularly challenging if you’ve done it before, but it can be a little intimidating for the first
timer.

The first step to replace a CPU is to remove the

heatsink. All modern CPU’s require an active

heatsink, a chunk of finned heat-conductive metal

with a cooling and mounted on top. The leading

cause of CPU failure is probably fan failure, since

the CPU can overheat and sustain damage if

there’s not enough cooling air flowing over the

fins. The only rule of thumb for removing

heatsinks is to study the latching mechanism then use your thumb to release it.
A standard Socket A heatsink is latched on both sides, but as soon as you release the main spring
force by doing the easy side, the other side

will fall off as you lift the heatsink away from the CPU. You can see the dried out (not so good)
thermal compound on our old Athlon as we

lift away the heatsink. You can just see the same dried out crud on the bottom of the heatsink at this
angle.

All modern CPUs since the inception of Socket 7

back in the early 90’s have used ZIF (Zero

Insertion Force) sockets, where the CPU legs are

locked in place by moving a locking lever. To

remove the Athlon CPU, we first have to release

the locking lever and lift it up to the vertical

position. The Athlon CPU is then lifted straight

out of the socket (below). Also, below, to the right, we show the keying on two corners of the socket
and the CPU that prevents you from installing it improperly.

The new Athlon CPU we are installing here isn’t a new CPU at all, it’s a “pull”, a CPU that’s been
removed from a system. When you shop for a replacement CPU to install on an older

motherboard, you’ll see that the prices are super

low and most are identified as “pulls. The Athlon is installed in the socket and locked into place with
the locking lever, which is pulled a little

away from the side of the socket to get past the locking nub.

Now comes the critical step. All modern CPUs require some sort of thermal material be added to the
die to improve the thermal interface with the heatsink. The purpose of a thermal compound, like
this Arctic Silver Ceramics, is to fill in the

microscopic voids in both the CPU die and the metal bottom of the heatsink. You don’t want to
drown the CPU in thermal compound, just use enough (many manufacturers define the amount as a
large grain of rice or a small pea) so when the

heatsink presses down on it, it will spread over the die.

That’s it, time to reinstall the heatsink by first

latching the far side of the retaining spring over

the center nub on the opposite side of the socket.

You can see it latched on here between the

capacitors, which makes this the “poor access”

side and the reason we install the CPU heatsink

retainer on this side first.

Next, we do the hard side, which we’ve made a lot easier by pulling the power supply first:-) With
the active heatsink in place, the final step is reconnecting the power to the heat sink fan (below) to
the CPU fan point on the motherboard. It’s critical you connect it to the proper point which the BIOS
manages for low power and sleep modes.
d). Replacing the Computer mass storage units

The main mass storage device in any PC is the hard disk. If we ever want to choose a

newer hard disk then we must take into consideration the following:

1- The manufacturer of the hard disk

2- capacity of the newer hard disk (in GB)

3- speed (in rpm)

4- seek time (in milliseconds)

Hard disk normally sits in a cage like the

following. It has two screws from each side of the

cage.
Hard drives in PCs are either mounted in fixed

cages (as above), in removable drive cages, or on

rails. The standard method in older clones was

fixed cages, these being the cheapest to build and

the hardest to work with. The problem is that

while the two screws on the front side are

exposed and easily removed, as shown to the left,

the two screws on the back side or hidden within the case infrastructure and in some instances,
even blocked by the motherboard! So keep in mind that you have to remove four screws to replace
your hard drive.

Once the screws are all removed, the hard drive is sitting in the bottom of the cage. This won’t
always be the situation, some really cheap cages are open at the bottom, so the instant the last
screw is removed the drive drops if you aren’t holding on. Oddly enough, this is the most critical
stage of

replacing a hard drive, in the sense that removing the drive through the case where the ribbon
cables are bunched up and over the CPU and heatsink is most likely to create another problem. If the
cables are long enough, you can leave them attached to the hard drive as you slide it out, but don’t
try pulling through a mess, clear a path first.

Once the hard drive is out, you can remove the broad ribbon cable which carries the data and the
4x1 power cable. The ribbon cable is sometimes secured in place with a glob of glue or silicon to
prevent it from working out of the drive due to vibrations. The cable is often keyed properly to the
drive, but if not, the important thing is to get the red wire on the Pin 1 location. The power
connector is often tough to remove just because it’s a tight fit. Work it back and forth gently along
the long axis, making sure you aren’t flexing the circuit board as you do so. The jumpers for
Master/Slave are between the two cables.

When you replace or upgrade any hard drive, you want to make sure that the jumper settings for
Master/Slave selection on older drives are set correctly. The correct setting, in case of replacing a
drive, means they should be set the same way they were on the old drive. In this case, the CD drive
is installed on its own cable and controller,

so the proper setting was “Single” (same as Master on most drives) and didn’t need changing. These
setting are normally shown on the label on the face of the drive, as to the right.

Again, since hard drive are three dimensional

objects and fairly large relative to the size of the

computer case, you have to clear plenty of room

behind the cage to slide the drive straight in. Any

time that you replace a hard drive and have new

problems, like a CD that doesn’t work or a new

noise in the case, the culprit is usually a ribbon cable that’s gotten loose on the controller while you
were installing the hard drive, or a cable that’s now hitting a fan. Install four screws (three is actually
plenty) and the physical part of the job is over.
e). Replacing the Computer Add-On Cards

Sometimes we need to get better performance of our PC regarding video’s or audios. If this is the
case then it’s time to replace your VGA card or sound card.

Replacing a VGA card:

One may need to replace a video card if it fails or if he/she wants a newer one with better
specifications. The VGA card is very important in many software applications like video-editing,
animations, CAD, or else. When you decide to replace your old VGA card you must know in advance
that the newer one will

meet your requirements and has compatibility with the motherboard. The following are the steps of
replacing a VGA card.

Video cards are pretty reliable, though some of the newer ones run so hot that they have their own
cooling systems, and if the fan fails, the video processor can’t be too far behind. Almost all systems
you crack open these days will feature an AGP video card, only the oldest system have PCI video and
only the very newest feature PCI Express. The first step to installing a video card is opening up the
case, which varies with non-standard systems, but for a normal mid-tower, it means two screws at
the most. You want to remove the side that’s above the motherboard, which you can easily
determine by looking at the back of the case. The I/O core at the bottom with the ports is attached
to the motherboard. As soon as the lid is off, we remove the video card hold-down screw.

There are few PC jobs easier than installing the video card. Most AGP slots lack the latch that the
cards were designed to accept on the back edge. That latching point is clearly visible on the old video
card we’re replacing, you can see the “L” shape under the four video memory chips on the right side
of the card. If the motherboard had supported a lock, it would have closed over the “L.” In fact, the
primary failure mode for AGP video cards is when they pop partially out of the slot on their own (or
because the monitor cable pulls them up), so before you assume any video card is dead, you should
reseat it in the slot and try again.

Our replacement 3D AGP video card is shown

here over the brown AGP slot. You can see the

key slot in the card edge that with a few orphan

exceptions, will prevent you from installing the

wrong voltage video card in the slot. Only the

oldest 1X and 2X AGP video slots had any

compatibility issues. The 4X cards were probably

the most common, they are now being replaced by 8X AGP, but PCI Express will take over soon, so
the majority of PCs in use will never feature the 8X AGP cards. You usually have to replace an AGP
video card with the same speed since the existing card will be the fastest the motherboard could
use. Handle the video card by the corners and don’t touch the gold contact fingers because the oil
from your skin can degrade the electrical signals.

Once you have the video card positioned properly over the AGP slot, seat it evenly by pressing down
on the top edge at both the front and back of the card (left). Once it’s seated, install the retaining
screw on the back rail (below), then inspect the card to

make sure it’s still fully seated in the slot. On poorly designed motherboards or cases, installing the
screw can cause the video card to pivot on the back of the slot and lose contact with the front of the
slot. That pretty much covers how to replace an AGP video card, unless you count installing the
software drivers as a step. Just use the CD that comes with the video card and hopefully there’ll be a
wizard.

Replacing a SOUND card:

Sound cards don’t have a particularly high failure

rate but they get replaced more often than any other

adapter, with the possible exception of modems. The reason is that older PCI sound cards that came
stock with systems offered pretty lousy performance, so gamers and musicians often find they have
to replace the sound card just to work with the programs they buy. The first step is to unplug the PC
and open the case. You only need to remove the top lid on the average mindpower - two screw,
slide back a couple inches, and off. You can see the original sound card connectors in the center of
the adapter bay.

The original sound card is secured in the case

with a single screw. If you’ve done this before, you’ll see that there’s something missing along the
top edge. This PC was built without an analog audio lead connecting the CD drive to the sound card,
which means it never would have been able to play music CDs. This is an extremely common issue
with PC’s that were built without any quality control or a CD was installed at a later date by
somebody who had a lazy attack. We remove the old sound card, and also a blank bay covers next to
it, because our PCI 5.1 upgrade sound card needs two slots for the SPDIF riser.

Speaking of the SPDIF (Sony/Phillips Digital Interface), we now connect this daughter card, or riser,
to the new sound card. This connector is keyed the top left hole on this 2x5 connector is blocked to
match the missing corner pin on the board connection block. You can also see just above the
forefinger the 4x1 connector where we’ll later connect the CD audio lead. To the right of those
connectors is the silk screen explaining which is which.

Here you can see the small SPDIF daughter

board held above the basic sound card. It’s a 5.1 sound card, five regular channels (front left and
right, rear left and right, center) plus a low frequency or sub-woofer channel. When you’re
upgrading a sound card, a 5.1 is pretty much the minimum I’d consider. Newer motherboards come
with 6.1 and even 7.1 sound built into the motherboard, so this isn’t anything you should have to
fool around with a newer PC. The game port is quickly becoming obsolete, replaced with USB game
controllers, but many replacement sounds cards, like this one, still feature a legacy game port.
Installing Network card:

Select an open expansion slot, preferably away from as many other components as possible.
Unscrew and remove the metal insert on the back of the system case that corresponds to this
expansion slot. Insert the card into the expansion slot carefully. You may have to rock it back and
forth from front to back to get it to go in. Figure below shows a modem card and insertion of the
card into the slot. Secure the card by screwing it into place.

f). Replacing Ram:

Put off the PC Replace the memory in their original slot

g). Replacing Optical drive:

Put off the PC and replace the CD-ROM power connector into its original location

h). Replacing a keyboard or a mouse

Once a keyboard or a mouse has to be replaced, some issues have to be taken into consideration:
First, we must look at the motherboard if supports the type of the keyboard or a mouse. For
keyboards we have AT, PS2, USB and wireless types. Some old motherboards do not support USB
type, so we must be careful when we choose this type of keyboard. This also applies to mice, but
instead of AT we have serial mouse.

The keyboard can be plugged in either B or C.

B is the PS2 port, while C is the USB port.

The mouse can be plugged in A, C or D.

A is the PS2,

C is the USB and

D is the Serial port.

When deciding to install a new mouse or keyboard you have to assure that

your motherboard supports it. Sometimes we may use what is called a PS2-to-

AT adaptor to connect a new ps2- keyboard to an old motherboard that only

supports AT connection.
Overall view connections between motherboard and other internal components: