Panipat 2022-2023

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The Tale Of

The Panipat
Weavers

Documented By:
Afsana | Akanksha | Amrita | Muskan | Saranya | Shikha
01
Fig 1 : A lady spinning the yarns on the spinning wheel (Charkha)
04

Copyright National Institute of Fashion Technology, Panchkula, Year 2022


All Rights Reserved.
All rights to the book are retained. Without the express written permission of the National Institute of Fashion Technology or the
appropriate copyright holder, no portion of this publication may be copied, stored, accessed, or transmitted in any form or by any
means, including but not limited to electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or other similar technologies.

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CERTIFICATE
This is to certify that this Project Report titled “The Tale of the Panipat Weavers” is based on our original research
work, conducted under the guidance of Ms. Shruti Gupta, Assistant Professor, Textile Design Department & CIC
towards partial fulfillment of the requirement for award of the Bachelor’s Degree in Textile Design of the National
Institute of Fashion Technology, Panchkula. No part of this work has been copied from any other source. Material,
wherever borrowed has been duly acknowledged. The detailed study of the craft was done between 03 June 2022 to
12 June 2022 and the information is valid for year 2022-2023.

Miss Afsana Parveen


Miss Akanksha Verma
Miss Amrita Mall
Miss Muskan Sinha
Miss Saranya
Miss Shikha Rani

Batch Of 2020- 2024


(Department Of Textile Design)

Ms. Shruti Gupta (CIC) Mrs. Rakhi Wahee Pratap


(Assistant Professor) (Center Coordinator)

Craft Research & Documentation


Fig 2 : A lady teaching her students to weave
the mats on pit loom
07

ACKNOWLEDGMENT
We, the students of the National Institute of Fashion Technology in Panchkula, would like to show our sincere
appreciation to the institution for providing us with this wonderful opportunity to become acquainted with the appealing
arts, cultures, and customs present in the illustrious city of Panipat in the Haryana region. It was a worthwhile
intellectual voyage.

We owe a debt of gratitude to our mentors, Ms. Shruti Gupta, Ms. Bharti Pahuja, and Ms. Rakhi Wahee Pratap, for their
direction and assistance along the way. We would also want to thank the members of our college’s staff, particularly Mr.
Sunil Mudahi, who assisted us with our financial management.

Our study would not have been possible without the help of our craftsmen, particularly Mr. Shahdeen Khan Sir, who
welcomed us with such warmth and shared with us a wealth of information about their line of work. Without their adoration,
concern, and assistance, our journey would not have been successful. Our interest and want to learn and experience more
every day of our voyage were stoked by their love, care, and support.

Our group would like to express special gratitude to Mr. Sanjay Gupta, Deputy Director of the Weaver’s Service Center in Panipat,
who provided us with extensive information about various crafts blooming in different parts of Panipat.

Finally, we would like to express our gratitude to Prof. (Dr.) Amandeep Singh Grover, our director, for all of his assistance
in making this visit a reality. The knowledge we acquired through this Cluster will always make our future
endeavors in designing easier for us, and we will always hold this journey dear to our hearts.

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TEAM MEMBERS

Afsana Parveen Akanksha Verma Amrita Mall


Photography and Videography Photography and Research Content Writing and Editing

Muskan Sinha Saranya Shikha Rani


Layouting and Content Writing Primary Research and Editing Illustrations and Graphics

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PREFACE

The Craft Cluster, which was put on by the National Institute of Fashion Technology, provided us the chance to comprehend
the traditional working practices of our craftsmen and empathize with India’s rural culture, as well as its social customs,
diversity, and array of artistic mediums and environmental factors.
We took every effort to watch, examine, and learn as much as we could about the rugs, mats, dhurries, and runners made
of upholstery cloth in the city of Panipat. We developed our capacity to tie it to the work process of weavers during this
process by gathering secondary material from books, periodicals, newspaper articles, libraries, and museums, among other
sources.
We met with artists and their families to hear about their backgrounds, and gained an understanding of the processes, ma-
terials, and techniques used in their trade as well as the working environment in which they operate.

We also researched the current scenario of weaving in domestic as well as international markets, the booms as well as the
problems faced by them. We also tried to mind map the problems and analyzed the strength, weakness and threats about
the craft.

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11 Craft Research & Documentation
CONTENTS
S. No. Topics Page No.

1. Haryana 12-21
2. Panipat - About the city 22-27
3. How to reach Panipat 28-31
4. A Tour to Panipat 32-35
5. Panipat Clusters 36-39
6. About Products 40-41
7. Raw Material Collection 42-45
8. Tools and Equipments 46-55
9. The Process of weaving 56-71
10. Products and Pricing 72-77
11. Our Skilled Artisans 78-89
12. About the Market 90-95
13. SWOT Analysis 96-99
14. Conclusion 100-101
15. Glossary and References 102-105

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HARYANA

Illustration 1 : Created by Muskan Sinha


Theme : Culture of Haryana
14

HARYANA
A state in northern India, Haryana has an unquestionably Haryana was formerly a key location during the Vedic and
rich past and culture. The state was formed on November 1, Indus Valley Civilizations and has been the center of advanced
1966, when it was detached from the state of Punjab due to habitation and a variety of activities. Even though Hindi is the
linguistic differences. The state has a highly rich history, as state’s main language, the majority of Haryanans speak the local
evidenced by the fact that it was part of the Korea area during the dialect. Three Panipat battles took place in the state. The
Mahabharata, and the term Haryana appears in manuscripts capital of Haryana, Chandigarh, is also the joint capital of
dating back to the 12th century A.D. Kurukshetra, a major Punjab. Haryana today is a rapidly growing state that has
area of modern-day Haryana, served as the battleground for made major contributions to India’s green revolution.
the epic Mahabharata battles The state is situated close to the
northernmost tip of India’s oldest mountain range, the Numerous athlees from Haryana have also excelled for India
Aravalli Hills. in competitions like the Asian, Commonwealth, and Olympic
Games. The state has also evolved as a important industrial
From several locations in Haryana, such as Gurgaon, we may and information technology powerhouse, with Gurgaon as the
see vistas of rugged slopes and solitary hills. Punjab and forerunner. Cities like Faridabad, Gurgaon, Panchkula, and
Himachal Pradesh surround Haryana to the north, and Dharuhera have established several car manufacturers in
Rajasthan shares its western and southern borders with the state. Haryana, a state on the verge of becoming one of
Haryana. The Yamuna River, which runs through Haryana, India’s most developed, is a major contributor to the country’s
delineates the state’s eastern boundary with Uttarakhand. economy in terms of both industry and agriculture. Haryana
Haryana has four distinctive geographic characteristics, is regarded as one of the richest states in the Indian Union.
including, Northeastern Shivalik Hills, Yamuna-Ghaggar plain,
Southwest-facing plains, Mountain Aravalli in the south.

Previously, the Bharata dynasty resided in Haryana. The


legendary dynasty is what gave India the name Bharat.

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The software industry, BPO, car industry, agricultural sector, and


retail sector are the main drivers of Haryana’s economy. Hary-
ana, a primarily agricultural state, has swiftly built a world-class
infrastructure and garnered attention and investment from both
the public and commercial sectors. Many companies, including
Maruti Udyog Ltd, Hero, Sony, and Alcatel, have established
manufacturing units in Haryana. A important numberof small-
scale enterprises are present in Haryana in addition to these well-
known ones. The state of Haryana is home to up to 80,000 small
industrial facilities that provide anything from sanitary products
to technical equipment. Automobile, agricultural, and motorbike
manufacture are important businesses. Together, these
manufacturing sectors contribute significantly to the state’s
overall revenue.

Gurgaon’s quick growth is also a sign of Haryana’s booming


service sector. In only a few decades, the city has grown from a
little town to one of the most densely populated, and there are no
indicators that this boom will slow down. The state’s hotel industry
has expanded as well to meet the demands of the numerous foreign
business people and tourists who routinely fly into the area around
the national capital for employment. In terms of economic growth,
Haryana is a pioneering state not only in Asia but also in India.

Fig 3 : Map Of Haryana

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Climate
Haryana has a tropical climate, as do the other northern plains states. The summers are exceedingly hot, with occasional spikes to
45 degrees Celsius. In Haryana, May, June, and July are the warmest months of the year. The state has modest rainfall
beginning in August, with Shivalik receiving the most and Aravali receiving the least. Winter begins in December and lasts until
January when temperatures can drop as low as 4-5 degrees Celsius. While August and September can bring minor local floods, July
experiences the majority of the rainfall.

Fig 4 : Troop of monkeys in Haryana

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Fig 5 : River Ghaggar at Panchkula

Rivers of Haryana
Haryana is traversed by a number of rivers. The Himalayas are the source of the majority of the rivers in the state. These
rivers have been crucial in advancing Haryana's agriculture. There are few permanent rivers among them, and many of them are
seasonal.
River Yamuna
Eastern border of the state is marked by the Yamuna River.
River Ghaggar
It is Haryana's primary seasonal river. Between Yamuna and Sutlej, the river begins in the outer Himalayas. It joins the Haryana
plains at Pinjore in the Panchkula district. The river runs about 460 kilometers.
River Markand
A seasonal stream, it travels from the Shivalik Range to Haryana close to Ambala. During the monsoons, the river is highly
destructive and furious, causing localised flooding.
River Sahibi
The river, which used to cross from Jaipur toward Rewari and Jhajjar in Haryana, is now almost extinct.
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Art and Crafts


Pottery, embroidery, and weaving are the key facets of Haryana's artistic culture. The vibrant Phulkari dupatta from Haryana is
well-known both in India and internationally. Along with sculpture and murals in both Persian and Mughal styles, Haryana is
home to a number of other artistic endeavors. Furniture made of woven materials, artistic sheet metal work, wooden beads, zari
& tilla jutti (leather shoes), lace work, bone carving, and wood carving are a few of the creative crafts Haryana is renowned for.

Its handloom legacy, particularly in the production of carpets and upholstery fabric, has made Panipat in the Indian state of
Haryana a significant textile hub. Farookh Nagar’s Mudhas (round stools) and Soniepat’s Pidhis, which are essentially hardwood stools
with seats woven in cotton threads or sutli, are two examples of woven furniture that Haryana is famous for. A pitcher made of clay
is one of the intriguing artifacts produced in Jhijjar. The clay, strangely enough, imparts a pleasant flavor to the water in the pitcher.

Fig 6 : Pottery Fig 7 : Yarns for Weaving

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Fig 8 : Folk Dance of Haryana Fig 9 : Women in traditional attire of Haryana

Folk Dances and Musics


The cultural demands of the largest agricultural and combative natures of the Haryanavi tribes are satisfied by the
folk songs and dances of Haryana. The three primary genres of Haryanvi musical folk theatre are Saang, Rasa lila, and
Ragini. Lakhmi Chand popularised the Saang and Ragini style of theatre.Fast, energizing motions are a hallmark of Haryanvi
traditional dance and music. Gogaji/Gugga, Holi, Phaag, Sawan, Teej, Chaupaiya, and other dances are famous in Haryana.

Themes from everyday life are the foundation of Haryanvi folk music, and the addition of earthy humor makes the songs
feel more lively. Haryanvi music has two primary genres: “Classical folk music” and “Desi folk music”. It is performed in the
styles of love ballads, songs of courage and bravery, celebrations of harvest and joy, and laments over the breakup of lovers.
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Festivals and Fairs
Numerous festivals and fairs are held in Haryana, which is a regional celebration of the seasons. All of the state's festivities are
observed with the customary intensity and excitement. Haryana observes nearly all Indian holidays. People from many castes
and cultures live in harmony together in Haryana. There are also other Haryana-regional fairs. You can escape the boredom of
everyday existence by attending Haryana's fairs and festivals.

Lohri: One of Haryana's most well-known holidays is Lohri.


Invoking fertility, Lohri ushers at the end of winter. Every
year on January 13, immediately before Makar Sankranti, it is
observed. The Fire, which represents Agni, the spark of life,
is a place where people worship.

Pinjore Heritage Festival : At Pinjore, there is a festival


honoring the town’s heritage. Some of the greatest
landscaped gardens in the nation, which date back to the
Mughal period in India and were created by Fidai Khan under
Jehangir’s rule, can be found in Pinjore.

Surajkund Fair : The Surajkund Craft is one of the


region’s most renowned art and artisan fairs. The event is held
every February. The greatest handicrafts and textiles made in the
nation are showcased at the Surajkund. The fair’s goal is to
inform visitors, both local and international, about the many
methods and talents used in the making of the crafts. By
connecting them with customers directly, also assists the less
fortunate artisans.

Kartik Fair : Another important annual fair in Haryana is


the Kartik Fair. The fair’s main goal is to promote the state’s
diverse artistic forms, including folk music, classical music,
martial arts, and dance. The Nahar Singh Mahal hosts this fair
throughout the month of November.
Fig 10 : Pinjore Heritage Festival

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Cuisines
Due to its predominately agrarian lifestyle, Haryana has maintained its cuisine’s simplicity. Haryana is appropriately referred to as
the “Land of Rotis” since locals like eating a variety of rotis. Both wheat and Baajre ki roti are widely available. The Murrah buffalo
and the Haryana cow are both native to the state of Haryana, which is widely renowned for its abundance of animals. It makes sense
that Haryanvi cuisine uses a lot of milk and milk products. The term nooni or tindi ghee refers to homemade fresh butter, which
is created every day in most homes. When a girl becomes a mother, it is usual for her family to present her with presents of ghee,
gondh, laddus, and dry fruits. Buttermilk chaaj is a popular beverage that instantly cools you down in the summer.
Haryana’s cuisine is known for a number of delectable dishes, including Kachri Ki Sabzi, Singri Ki Sabzi, Hara Dhania Cholia, Methi
Gajjar, Kadhi Pakora, Mixed Dal, Khichri, Bathua Raita, Tamatar Chutney, Besan Masala Roti-Makhan, Bajra Aloo, Roti-Makhan, Bhura
Roti-Ghee, Mithe Chawal, Kheer, Churma and Malpuas.

Fig 11 : Local food of Haryana

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PANI
IPATPANIPAT

Illustration 2 : Created by Muskan Sinha


Theme : Battle of Panipat
24

PANIPAT
About the City
Panipat is a historical city in the Indian state of Haryana. On the National Highway, it lies 169 kilometers south of
Chandigarh and 90 kilometers north of Delhi. Indian history had major changes as a result of the three conflicts that
took place nearby in 1526, 1556, and 1761. Both “Textile City” and “City of Weavers” are well-known names for the
city in India. It is also regarded as the “cast-off capital” due to its status as the “global center for textile recycling.”
On 1 November 1989, the former Karnal district was divided into the Panipat district. On July 24, 1991, it
once more joined with the Karnal district. It re-emerged as a distinct district on January 1, 1992. Panipat was
reportedly one of the selected 5 villages that the Pandavas requested from Duryodhana before the Mahabharat war.
The tourism attractions of Panipat are fantastic. A sacred site for the Muslim saint Shaikh Sharafuddeen Bu Ali Qalandar is the
prominent ancient building in Panipat. The sites of three legendary Panipat wars are among the city’s other tourist attractions.

Demographics
According to preliminary Census India statistics, there were 294,292 people living in Panipat in 2011; 157,148 of them were men
and 137,144 were women. Despite having a population of 294,292, the urban/metropolitan area of Panipat has 444,524 residents,
of which 237,702 are men and 206,822 are women.

Lifestyle
Panipat’s streets are carpeted in fabric, and trucks loaded to the gills with it rumble by. The world’s “castoff capital” is located
here. Woollen clothing from the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, Western Europe, Japan, and Korea are transported
to this city in Haryana to be reused, recycled, and repurposed. 90% of the subpar blankets used globally came from Panipat; the
bulk was utilized for disaster assistance, but some were also sold domestically for use in the harsh winters of rural UP, Bihar, and
Rajasthan. Seven sectors make up Panipat’s economy: handloom, woolen carpets, shoddy yarn spinning, power looms, wet
processing, and hosiery woolen yarn. More than 75,000 people are employed by these factories, which have
combined annual revenue of Rs. 11,000 crores. Numerous enterprises may be found in Panipat, including the largest
sugar mill in Haryana, the IOCL Refinery, the urea factory owned by National Fertilizer Limited, and many thermal power plants.

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Fig 14 : A Wall painting of Panipat
Fig 15 : Normal street of
Panipat
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Climate
There are four seasons in the city all year round. Summer hits
the months from mid-March to June end to be very hot. During
this time of year, May and June are sweltering months with
daily highs that occasionally exceed 40°C. Beginning in early July,
the city is pounded by the southwest monsoon. Rainfall doesn’t
stop until mid-September. The annual average rainfall in this
region is about 467 mm. Humidity levels in Panipat rise during
this time as well, ranging from 60% to 85%. Winters which start in
mid-November and last until mid-March. January is the coldest
month of the year, with day temperatures ranging from 7°C to
20.2°C, winds are often calm. April and May are the months with
the lowest humidity in this city. However, there can be a few
thunderstorms here and there throughout the summer. During
the colder months, when there is also some moderate frost here,
fog is most prevalent.

Topography
Panipat is situated between 29 degree-9’-50” and 30 de-
gree-15’-15” north latitude and 76 degree-10’-10” to 77o-17’-
05” east longitude. Due to its characteristic Indo-Gangetic plain
topography, the area normally features flat areas with mild
slopes flowing from the north to the south and west. It most-
ly consists of alluvial deposits that are the result of tectonic
processes brought on by the Himalayan mountains’ ascent. These
deposits are made up of layers of sand and silt from alluvial
deposits. The crust below these deposits is composed of
Gondwana, the Cretaceous, and Shivalik tertiary remnants. These
soils are deeper in color as a result of the increased content of
organic matter. The region is drained by the Yamuna and its
tributaries and is part of the Yamuna Sub-Basin within the Ganga
Main Basin.
Fig 12 : A view of house of Artisan’s Family
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Illustration 3 : Created by Muskan Sinha
Theme : Routes to reach Panipat
Ways To
Reach Panipat

Panipat
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How To Reach Panipat

By Air
The distance to the closest airport, Indira Gandhi International Airport, is 99 kilometres.

By Railway
An efficient rail system connects Panipat Junction. Several trains stop at this junction, including the Unchahar Express, Mussoorie
Express, Jhelum Express, and Shatabadi.

By Road
With great bus links to all of the cities and towns in the neighbouring states, Panipat is located along National Highway No. 1.
Panipat is served by Volvo buses operated by Haryana Roadways. There are several ways to travel within and outside of
Kurukshetra. Transportation options include local buses, cars, taxis, and more.

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Fig 13 : A view of Panipat Railway Station
A Tour To
PANIPAT
Illustration 4 : Created by Muskan Sinha
Theme : A view of Kabuli bagh Mosque
34

Fig 14 : Bu-Ali Shah Qalandar Peeth Fig 15 : Tomb of Ibrahim Lodhi

Fig 16 : Statue at Kala Ambh Park Fig 17 : Kabuli Bagh Mosque


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Fig 18 : Devi Mandir Fig 19 : Outside of Panipat Museum

Panipat is a historical city with several tourist attractions.


It includes several well-known mosques and temples with
religious beliefs, such as the Kabuli Bagh Mosque, the Bu-Ali
Shah Qalandar Peeth, and the Devi Temple, to which visitors
from all over the globe come to fulfill their dreams. It features
historical landmarks such as Kala Ambh Park, which tells the
account of the Panipat warfare. The Panipat Museum,
Salar Ganj Gate, and several more locations are very popular
with tourists. Panipat was controlled by Muslim rulers for a
long time, and even when India and Pakistan were split, the
city still took in many Muslim refugees from Pakistan,
therefore its monuments show a strong Persian influence.

Fig 20 : Salar ganj gate


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Illustration 5 : Created by Akanksha Verma
Theme : A woman weaving on loom
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PANIPAT
CLUSTER
The Panipat textile cluster is centered on and near Panipat City and the surrounding suburban areas. The sector is broken down
into seven subsectors: handloom, woolen carpets, shoddy yarn spinning, power looming, wet processing, and hosiery woolen
yarn. More than 75,000 people are employed by these units, which collectively generate an estimated 11,000 crores in revenue.
38

Khes Panja Durrie


Panipat, popularly known as the Handloom City, was The “panja” durrie, a type of flooring that is popular both in
historically well-renowned for its khes weaving. These were India and internationally, is famously produced in Panipat.
made in a checkered pattern using cotton yarn and double It was formerly a customary item manufactured by peasant
cloth weaving. The Khes were thick enough to double as a women for a daughter’s dowry. However, the product
shawl or a wrap in addition to its more common usage as gradually gained recognition outside of Panipat, and the
bedding. The Panipat handloom industry experienced a huge rising demand for durries led to an increase in the number of
change with the introduction of the power loom. The Khes commercial and state-owned weaving facilities in the city.
weaving industry, on the other hand, was extinct because it Panipat produces a variety of floor coverings, including the
required too much time to weave. After the 1947 partition of panja durrie. During the partition in 1947, a large number of
India and Pakistan, West Pakistan brought the ancient Panipat professional weavers from Sind, Jhang and Multan, (now in
Khes craft to that area. Pakistan) migrated to India and brought this craft to India.

Fig 21 : Khes woven by local Artisan Fig 22 : A Panja Durrie

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Hand Woven Tapestry Handloom Products


Traditional textile artwork known as tapestries is woven by Panipat is a handloom product manufacturing power-
hands on a loom. Unlike other woven fabrics, where both house, generating carpets, cushions, velvet comfy, couch
the weft and the warp threads may be seen, a tapestry fabrics, bed sheets, drapes, and rugs, among other
is weft-faced weaving, in which all of the warp threads are things. Additionally, it has developed into a center for the
buried in the finished work. Weft threads are often recycling sector, leading to the creation of yarn from used
discontinuous in tapestry weaving; each colored weft clothing.
is interlaced back and forth in a separate, tiny design
region. Weft threads of various colors are woven over certain
areas of the warp in a simple weft-faced weave to create the
pattern.

Fig 23 : A tapestry being woven Fig 24 : Hand woven Mats

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Handwoven Mats and Runners
Mats and runners are popular home furnishing items that
may be found at every entryway. Because Panipat is a cen-
ter for home furnishings, the craftsmen here specialize in
mats and runners. Many goods are made from leftover fabrics
and yarns received from companies to be more sustainable.
Depending on market needs, different items have different
designs and sizes. The items are in high demand because of their
strength and ability to absorb water.

Kandla is a seaport and town in the Kutch region of Gujarat, close


to the city of Gandhidham, and is now formally known as the
Deendayal Port Authority. The first special economic zone to be
formed in Asia and India was the Port of Kandla Special Economic
Zone (KASEZ). The Port of Kandla SEZ, founded in 1965, is the
largest multiple-product SEZ in the nation. It is the major port
for the import of all types of fabrics from European countries, the
USA, and other countries. Then these reused fabrics are transport-
ed to Panipat and converted into shoddy yarns by cut into pieces.
Then these yarns are sorted on basis of color and materials and
exported to small weaving industries situated in the streets of
Panipat. These yarns are then converted to many useful furnished
products, in which, these mats and runners are one percent of it.

Fig 25 : Hand-woven mat using fancy yarn


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Collection Of
Raw Materials

46
Illustration 6 : Created by Muskan Sinha
Theme : Woman spinning on Charkha
44
Raw Materials
Raw materials are the essential sources that must be available throughout production to make any product. A
variety of raw materials are needed to create the upholstered goods that craftsmen create on pit looms. Since the
craftsmen are also producing mats from mill waste, this opens the way to sustainability practices. The blanket’s
piping leftovers are supplied from Gupta Mills, while the yarn is purchased from Panipat Market on Gohana Road.
Locally known as satin, blanket piping is typically utilized as weft and is purchased based on the artisan’s
budget. At one point, Satin could only be acquired in tonnes. The price is based on the size of the cloth
pieces; the smaller they are, the less expensive they will be. Before being sold, the satin is separated, which has an
impact on the price and helps craftspeople save time. The price of piping residue is around Rs. 30–40 per kilogram.
Cotton yarns that are used as warp (Tana) and weft (Bana) are bought in cones based on weight. The deeper the
color of the yarn, the more expensive it is. Prices of yarns vary according to the color of the yarn. To give the items a unique
appearance, other ornamental yarns are also employed. The buying costs of yarns are briefly shown in the following table:

Table 1 : Types of yarns used, yarn count, and price


S. No. Yarn Yarn Count Price

1. Blackish Gray Color Cotton Yarn 1s Rs. 50 per kg

2. Yellow Color Cotton Yarn 1s Rs. 60 per kg

3. Black Color Cotton Yarn (Lighter) 1s Rs. 62 per kg

4. Maroon Color Cotton Yarn 1s Rs. 70-80 per kg

5. Feathered Yarn 100 ply Rs. 200 per kg

6. Dori- Cotton Rope (Thinner) - Rs. 70 per kg

7. Polyester Rope (Thicker) - Rs. 80 per kg

8. Thick yarn (Fugga Yarn) - Rs. 100-120 per kg


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Fig 26 : Yarns for Spinning Wefts Fig 27 : Piping of Satin

Fig 28 : Feather Yarns Fig 29 : Pirn spinned with yarns to be used in Shuttle
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Equipments And Tools


Tools and machinery serve as the foundation for the production process. Because the textile industry is deemed unstructured, all
operations cannot be completed on-site. Different procedures require various instruments and machinery. The following devices
and instruments were utilized during the visit to the craft cluster in Panipat:

Equipments

Fig 30 : A Spinning Wheel

Spinning Wheel (Charkha)


The weft yarn is prepared into a Pirn shape using a secondhand wooden Charkha before being inserted onto a shuttle. For its
ability to travel smoothly, mustard oil is commonly utilized.

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Warp Machine (Tana


Machine)
There are two main components to the three-
year-old iron Tana Machine at the artisans’
workstation. Tana is looped around one of them,
a huge horizontal cylinder that rotates on its
axis. Another is a vertical frame (Creel)
that supports cones (Pinde), each of which
contains warp strands that are removed and
combined to generate a warp beam on the
cylinder.

Fig 31 : Warp Machine


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Pit Loom (Khaddi)


A pit loom naturally implies that the loom is placed in a pit with paddles positioned beneath it so the craftsperson may run
the loom with their legs. The loom was built using wood and some iron components. The loom is the mainstay of the weaving
process. The craftsmen’s native tongue refers to the pit loom as Khaddi.

Parts Of Pit Loom :


Reed (Kanghi)
A reed is a rectangular wooden frame with multiple vertical metallic dents used to run warp threads through it.
Depending on the needed pattern, the quantity of warp threads that pass through a dent frequently fluctuates. The finer
the yarn, the more warp passes through a dent. The artists utilize shoddy yarns as coarser warp yarns for the fabrication of
mats and runners, so two threads might pass through a dent. Reed count is decided by the number of dents per two inches.

Heald Shaft
Also known as the frame, this piece is supported by two hardwood cuboidal rods that are positioned above and below. The
metallic heald wires are replaced with either golatoon yarns or satin cord (Malai Dori). The heald shaft sheds the warp yarns,
allowing them to travel through the wires without becoming tangled. The quantity of frames changes depending on the design.

Warp Beam
The warp beam is made from wood and fastened at the rear of the loom in the shape of a cylindrical rod. A warp sheet has been
wrapped around the warp beam.

Beater (Hattha)
A wooden frame that surrounds the reed is used to beat the weft to correctly interwind it with the warp.

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Back Beam
The back beam is the iron roller that is located behind
the weaver’s beam on the loom. It is also known as a
back rest because by keeping the warp tension, it directs
the warp sheet away from the warp beam.

Cloth Beam
A wooden roller used to wind woven fabric onto it is also
referred to as a “cloth roller” or “cloth beam.” It’s posi-
tioned underneath the front rest.

Front Rest
The front rest, also known as the breast rest, is the iron
roller at the front of the loom that is positioned above

Fig 32 : Pit Loom at Panipat

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Illustration 7 : Created by Amrita mall
Theme : Sketch of pit loom

Reed
Beater
Heald Shaft
Heald Wires
Back Rest
Front Rest

Warp Beam
Cloth Beam

Peddle

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Tools
Pirn (Nalli)
A little hollow cylinder stick known as a “nalli” in the local language is constructed of either wood or plastic. It is filled with weft
yarn using the spinning process on a spinning wheel. A pin is used to secure Pirn within the shuttle. Due to the filling of yarn, it is
frequently thicker in the middle and thinner at both ends.

Bobbins (Pinde)
Narrow cylindrical rods with yarns looped around them, known locally as pinde, are bought from the market. Due to the greater
amount of yarn that is wrapped around it, it is heavier than pirn.

Shuttle
A wooden spindle-shaped instrument called a shuttle with points on both sides is intended to keep pirn inside of it. It was created
and made by regional carpenters. It is thrown between the shed, generated by movement, and the cross-up raising of ewarp to
insert weft.

Blade (Churri)
During weaving, a razor-sharp iron blade is used to cut the weft thread.

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Scissors (Kainchi)
A pair of iron-made scissors is used to trim yarns, particularly weft strands.

Needle (Sui)
A metallic, sharp-pointed instrument used to hand finish things is referred to as a needle.

Pliers (Pilas)
A metallic hand tool having jaws, joints, and handles that is used to repair machines.

Sewing Machine
The hand-operated sewing machine is used to sew the ends of the yarn-made runners and mats.

Measuring Tape
This flexible ribbon-like construction is constructed of plastic and is used to measure objects’ length and breadth. It has markings
for linear measurements on both sides. It usually contains marks for 150 cm measurements.

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Bobbin Shuttle
Pirn (Nalli)

Scissors (Kainchi)
Blade (Chhuri)
Needle (Sui)

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Plier (Pilas)

Measuring Tape

The above illustrations depict the tools used by


artisans in the production process of mats and
runners.

Sewing Machine
Illustrations by Muskan Sinha
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Problems in Raw Materials
Collection
Panipat being the world’s castoff capital, provided
a chance for the artists to obtain raw materials with
ease. When it comes to particular raw resources,
challenges can sometimes have a distinct impact
on the situation. One tonne of satin might only be
purchased at a given moment, for example,
therefore some materials have restrictions. Although
the cost of raw materials has increased, goods
continue to be offered at the same rates. This
situation makes it difficult to get more supplies.

Fig 33 : Bulk of Raw Materials


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Illustration 8 : Created by Muskan Sinha
Theme : Woman weaving on loom

58
And The
PROCESS
Begins....
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Process
Before beginning the weaving process, all raw materials are purchased from Panipat Market and Gupta Mill on Gohana Road.
Different upholstery goods, including runners, mats, and carpets, are produced by the craftspeople. Their weaving techniques
fluctuate slightly depending on the design specifications.

The weaving process begins with fresh thoughts as the morning light begins to set. Preparing the Tana (waning to prevent yarn
tangles. At the corner of the wheel, an iron spring suspended from a nut bolt enables the craftsman to follow the rounds (Chal) of
the Tana Machine wheel (1 Chal covers 120 inches of yarn). The Tana Machine can prepare 10 sets of warp at once, and it takes an
hour and a half to prepare 10 sets. A Tana set has a length of 100 meters.

Another craftsperson prepares the weft threads for yarn-based goods concurrently. 5 cones of 2-ply cotton yarn were used to
create 10-ply weft yarn (Bana) in the form of Pirn (Nalli). This is carried out manually on a wooden Charkha (Spinning Wheel). Pirn
takes about 2 days to make from 50 kg of yarn. While making the yarns, it was important to keep in mind that the yarns needed
to be held securely to be wrapped properly. The weaving is smooth because the threads are bundled properly. While weaving,
pirns are ready to insert the wooden shuttle.

The craftsman arrives at the pit loom (Khaddi) to set it up for weaving after preparing the Warp and Weft. The warp is mounted
on a roller at the back of the weavers beam. Then, macrame (Malayi Dori) and Golatoon heddle wires are passed through manu-
ally crafted wooden frames. Finally, warp is wrapped around the cloth roller after passing through reed.
Shuttles are thrown alternately from both sides into the weft to begin the weaving process. warp is lifted and lowered with the
use of paddles. The artist uses reed to beat weft after slightly stretching the cloth in the middle to prevent further stretching.

The fabric is taken from pit loom when the goods are finished. The fabric is cut into pieces based on the size of the finished
product. Two techniques are used to finish products: one involves hand-knotting loose ends, and the other involves sewing the
loose ends together using a sewing machine.

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Fig 34 : A woman separating different colors recycled fabrics


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Fig 34 : Preparation of warp on warp machine

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Fig 35 : Removal of warp bundles from warp machine Fig 36 : Style of holding yarns while spinning

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Fig 37 : Spinning weft yarns into pirn form

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Fig 38 : Putting warp on the loom

Fig 39 : Fixing pirn in shuttle


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Fig 40 : Weaving process performed by weaver


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Fig 41 : Removal of product from loom Fig 42 : Finishing touch to mats using sew

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And finally the products are


packed in bulk to be supplied in
market. In exhibitions product
are packed individually in plastic
wraps.
Fig 43 : Final Products
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Design and Weave


The mats and runners, which are manufactured in large
quantities in Panipat, are widely sought-after everyday
items. Because of the large volume of manufacturing,
the craftsmen primarily use plain weaves to create their
products. They create some variations in productions
by using different colors and types of yarns in plain
weave. They mostly create different scaling of stripes on
their products with the use of different yarns.

Fig 44 : A weaver weaving on the product

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Warp

Weft

Illustration 9 : Created by Muskan Sinha


Theme : Plain Weave used by weavers to make products

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Fig 45 : Verticals Stripes pattern Fig 46 : Small stripes created in between Fig 47 : Variation in pattern using different yarns

The variations in designs using


different color yarns and patterns can
easily be recognized. They created
variations in design by using different
colored yarns in warps and weft and
making stripes of different sizes.

Fig 48 : Different yarn counts yarns are used in warps and Fig 49 : Multicolor yarns used to create stripes
wefts

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Finishing
When the weaving is finished, the fabric is removed from the
cloth beam. The items are cut into different pieces before each
one receives its finishing touch. The items are finished using one
of two alternative techniques: either hand knotting the warp end
or sewing the ends together using a sewing machine.
Products are frequently created in response to specific orders,
particularly in large quantities. After creating bundles, the bulk
goods are placed in plastic bags. Additionally, the goods created
for shows and fairs are separately wrapped in clear poly bags.

As the weaving is done using a hand loom, it is intrinsic that some-


times there might be the minimal fault. The newbies make some
mistakes at the initial stage, but those products are renewed by
experienced artisans. Not a single product is wasted because of
minimal fault.

Fig 50 : Woman knotting the final product after


removing it from loom

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Illustration
Illustration1110
: Created
: Created
bybyMuskan
MuskanSinha
Sinha
Theme
Theme : Sketch
: Womanof Aweaving
woman on
weaving
loom on loom

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Products And
their Pricing

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74

Final Products And Pricing


The artists produce the products by instructions from customers or retailers. The majority of the product line consists of
upholstery items, which vary from one another in terms of their sizes and materials. Some of the goods, such as rugs, floor coverings,
ornamental mats, and runners, are specifically made for exhibits and fairs. The price of the product is determined by its dimen-
sions, the materials used, and the work required to prepare it. Some goods include patterns and embellishments done by hand
rather than using a shuttle. Additionally, it takes longer than other products.

The makers of mats with measurements of 14 x 20 and 16 x 24 receive more orders. Therefore, the majority of these mats are
exported to local stores. The artists often lose money every time since they sell their goods mostly to retailers. Although the cost
of raw materials has been rising over time, the selling price of goods has been constant over the past ten years. This is an
indicator of the dangers that the craftspeople endure.
Table 2 : Types of products, its dimensions, material used, duration, and, and price

S. No. Products Dimensions Materials Used Durations Price

1. Yarn Mat 14×20 inch Cotton yarns (warp and weft) 10 Minutes Rs.60/-

2. Satin Mat 16×24 inch Piping(weft), Cotton yarn(warp) 5 Minutes Rs.25/-

3. Feathered Mat 18×24 inch Feather yarn(weft), Cotton 30 Minutes Rs. 120/-
yarn(warp)

4. Floor Covering 20×32 inch Dori(weft), Cotton yarn(warp) 20 Minutes Rs. 200/-

5. Runner 20×55 inch Feather yarn(weft), Cotton 1.5 hours Rs. 200/-
yarn(warp

6. Double Rulla (Floor 24×36 inch Feather yarn(weft), Cotton 2 hours Rs.500/-
covering) yarn(warp)

7. Runner (Feathered) 26×72 inch Satin fabric(weft), Cotton 2 hours Rs.350/-

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Fig 51 : Feathered mat Fig 52 : Satin runner Fig 53 : Feathered runner

Fig 54 : Satin mat Fig 55 : Floor rug Fig 56 : Floor covering

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Fig 57 : Yarn and satin runner Fig 58 : Feathered mat (Variation in color)

Fig 59 : Feathered mat (Variation in color) Fig 60 : Khes Fig 61 : Rug

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Fig 62 : The artisans also use their product as chair sitter Fig 63 : The Khat (Bedding ) is woven by artisans in their home using leftover raw materials

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The Skilled
ARTISANS

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Illustration 11 : Created by Muskan Sinha
Theme : Sketch of Artisans

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80

Artisan 01

Mr. Ali Yamin

His Age: 30
Gender: Male
Address: Kutani Road, Ashok Vihar Colony,
near Beri Wali Masjid, Panipat, Haryana
Contact info: 9671725605 , 8950326842
Education: Till 5th grade
Craft: Mats and Runners
Cluster: Panipat
Year of practice: 17 years
Area specification: Weaving on pit loom
Working hours: 8-10 hours (2 hours as bonus
in emergency period)
Daily wage: Rs. 500-600 in down market and
Rs. 1000-1200 in high market

Fig 64 : Portrait picture of Mr. Yamin Ali


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Artisan 02

Mr. Shakeel

His Age: 48 years


Gender: Male
Address: Kutani Road, Ashok Vihar Colony,
near Beri Wali Masjid, Panipat, Haryana
Contact info: 9053368655
Education: Uneducated
Craft: Mats and runners
Cluster: Panipat
Year of practice: 35 years
Area specification: Weaving mats and runners
(all material based) on loom
Working hours: 8-9 hours
Daily wage: Rs. 300-400

Fig 65 : Portrait picture of Mr. Shakeel


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Artisan 03

Ms. Mausima Khatoon

Her Age: 42 years


Gender: Female
Address: Kutani Road, Ashok Vihar Colony,
near Beri Wali Masjid, Panipat, Haryana
Contact info: 9053368655
Education: Went to Madarsa (Till 1 para)
Craft: Mats
Cluster: Panipat
Year of practice: 30 years
Area specification: Weft yarn preparation (over
pirn, and cone)
Working hours: 8-9 hours
Daily wage: Rs. 100-150

Fig 66 : Portrait picture of Mrs. Mausima Khatoon


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Artisan 04

Ms. Savista

Her Age: 15 years


Gender: Female
Address: Kutani Road, Ashok Vihar Colony,
near Beri Wali Masjid, Panipat, Haryana
Contact info: 9053368655
Education: Madarsa (Till Kuran Shareef)
Craft: Mats and runners
Cluster: Pnipat
Year of practice: 1 year
Area specification: Weaving rugs (yarn based)
on loom
Working hours: 6-8 hours
Daily wage: Rs. 200-250

Fig 67 : Portrait picture of Ms. Savista


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Artisan 05

Mr. Muntazir

His Age: 18 years


Gender: Male
Address: Kutani Road, Ashok Vihar Colony,
near Beri Wali Masjid, Panipat, Haryana
Contact info: 9053368655
Education: Madarsa and tuitions
Craft: Mats
Cluster: Panipat
Year of practice: 4 years
Area specification: Warp yarn preparation on
warp yarn machine
Working hours: 7-8 hours
Daily wage: Rs.150-200

Fig 68 : Portrait picture of Mr. Muntazir Craft Research & Documentation


Fig 69 : Students having a discussion with artisan

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86

Community and Their History


Going through the lanes leading to the artisans’ home and work-station, it tells lots of stories. Their experiences and expertise speak
out about everything from past to present, but these stories need to be heard and written. According to the information received
from interviews with the artisans, they all hail from the Sunni division of the Muslim community. In the initial stages, the kids are
sent to the Madarsa to gain the basic knowledge of the religion, the language, and the Kuraan.

The art of weaving is a beautiful gift and heritage that they have acquired from their ancestors and are carrying on to transfer to
the next generations. With the inventions of power looms, Khaddis are on a verge of extinction, but still, they are trying their best
to keep the handloom heritage alive.

Since weaving is their family profession, they tried to weave different varieties of products according to the demands of customers.
Initially, they began with weaving blankets, but due to the pricking of blankets demand gradually fell. And the production of
blankets by them came to end in the last 40 years. At the same time, they get orders for 48’’ X 72’’ inches durries. Later on, they tried
preparing Khesh using 4 paddles and 4 frames. Preparing a Khesh takes almost 2 hours. Its demand came to an end 20-25
years ago today.

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Fig 70 : Family photograph of
Master artisan’s family
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88

Working Atmosphere of Artisans


On the first floor of the two-story home of the master artisan, a workstation has been set up. The work area includes a
Charkha, a Tana machine, and four Khaddi (Pit looms). The family learned the craft of weaving from their ancestors, thus the
master seeks to pass on the knowledge to the next generation to preserve the weaving tradition. From obtaining raw sup-
plies to exporting finished goods to merchants, the master artisan’s family members undertake the whole workload.

Due to the lack of space, the workstation is rather crowded, yet they can overcome the challenges. Adjustment is necessary, but
when it doesn’t yield the desired results, it is an unfair return. Due to a lack of adequate storage, raw materials and tools are
kept close to Khaddi and other machinery. When spinning and weaving, different fibers are mingled in the air of the work area,
which is breathed in by the craftspeople. Since they don’t wear masks, breathing air contaminated with fibers and dust may
result in respiratory problems for them.

The unpredictable weather is typically to blame for scheduling changes. Because the workstation is on the top level, it might be
quite difficult to work during the summer’s sweltering days. Working in the afternoon is advantageous in winter, though. Working
in the afternoon is advantageous in winter, though. A khaddi and a tana machine are situated beneath the sky, and during rainy
seasons, the plastic shade is put over open spaces to protect them.

Visitors are greeted at the workstation entrance by the sound of frames rising and falling to music.

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Fig 71 : The working area of artisans

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Illustration 12 : Created by Akanksha Verma
Theme : View of Salar ganj market

About The
MARKET

82
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Market Surveys
From sourcing raw materials to exporting final finished products, the market has played a significant role in one or another way.
Raw materials are sourced from Gupta Mills and Panipat Market, Gohana Road. After processing is done at the artisans’ work
station, raw materials converted to final products; are exported to the local retailers in the nearby market; such as Lal Masjid in
Panipat, Barsat Road, and Kishanpura in the Panipat district. Some of the retailers export the products to foreign nations as well.
Most of the products are exported to American buyers.

While dealing with the retailers, the master artisan has to agree to some terms and agreements set up by retailers. The artisans
have to either work on the designs provided by the retailers or they have to send their different samples for final selection. They
are provided with a tenure to finish the product with a complete ordered quantity. Once the given order is exported to the
retailers, they do not pay the artisans immediately, instead, they pay after the sale of all the products. This may sometimes take a
month or even more than that.

Artisans also prepare the products for selling in exhibitions, fairs, fests as well as Craft Baazars organized around different states.
They get tickets to set up their stalls to promote the handicrafts. The exhibitions and fairs fetch them better earnings than the
orders they get from retailers. The master artisan occasionally set up his stalls in Nainital Fairs, Surajkund Fair of Faridabad. The
products created for all these are slightly different and unique and are based on customers’ preferences.

With the intervention of COVID, their work and economy have faced a drastic change. During the lockdown period, there was a
full stop in orders they get from clients and retailers. But the hopeful artisans kept on creating the products with stored raw
materials for future orders.

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Fig 72 : A view of roads of Panipat
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Current Scenarios
The COVID closure caused the weaving community, not just in Panipat but across the nation, to suffer a great loss. Because it was
incredibly difficult to obtain raw materials during the lockdown, the weaver’s families made their crafts using raw materials that
were stockpiled. Customers, weavers, and retailers were unable to communicate at all.

They suffered greatly due to the transit system’s total closure. All sources of income were terminated. When the raw materials in
storage were all used up, their industries had to shut down for months, and their families had to rely on their savings.

Even after lockdown, they still have trouble communicating with their customers, markets, and other customers. Prior to the shut-
down, fewer orders for their productions were placed. Some small industries hire workers from other states who have not yet
arrived following the lockout. Additionally, power looms are a factor that impacts their ability to produce. Despite the numerous
difficulties they face, their enthusiasm for their profession remains unaffected.

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Fig 73 : Market of Panipat during pandemic
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Illustration 13 : Created by Muskan Sinha
Theme : Woven mat
The SWOT
Analysis

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98

Fig 74 : Women weaving on pit looms Fig 75 : Bulk of raw materials

Strengths Weakness
The use of shoddy yarns or upholstery fabrics in the There are least other design options and every piece has the
production of finished products encourages the concept of exact same simple weave.
sustainability.
Their design patterns are outdated, and they only employ
A significant portion of fashion scraps is recycled into very old machinery that can produce plain weave items.
useful assets that assist in lowering a significant portion of
the pollution produced by textile industries. Least customer and market interaction.

A large population is employed in production since it neces- Working areas are suffocating due to tiny scraps in the air
sitates numerous workers. which may cause respiratory problems.

They provide robust and reasonably priced products.

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Fig 76 : Kids of a female worker at the factory Fig 77 : A view of street where artisans live

Opportunities Threats
Consumers nowadays are shifting to the concept of The pricing of products is comparatively less than labor cost.
sustainability, so they may purchase these handmade
products. It’s difficult for artists to compete in the market with
outdated designs and equipment in the age of power looms
Many exhibitions and fairs all over the country are organized and modern styles.
to promote the selling of these products.

Government organizations like Weaver’s Service Center are


made for awareness of artisans to promote their works.

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Conclusion
Our visit to the City of weavers gave us a chance to explore the art of weaving in real life. We met
many creative minds who enlightened our knowledge about rugs, carpets, runners, and many new
woven products. Panipat is called the Cast off capital Of India. Clothing all over the world is sent
here to be resold, recycled, and make the best use of it.

We met the artisans who converted this trash into beautiful products. We heard about their tales
of the past, how they inherited the art of weaving from their ancestors, and also the challenges
they are facing. Panipat’s streets, which are clogged with trucks and cars carrying yarn and textiles,
have many weaving tales. Even in the age of power looms, many craftsmen in the city operate on
handlooms.

As aspiring textile designers, learning about weaving in-depth in real life was an enlightening
adventure for us. From gathering raw ingredients through production and product packaging, we
learned about each step in detail. Learning about sustainability in the actual world was a
rewarding experience.

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Fig 78 : Outer view of small weaving factory

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Glossary
Jutti : a pair of embroidered flat
Sawan : also reffered as monsoon
Sabzi : Hindi term for vegetables
Dhurrie/ Durrie : hand woven large mats used in floor coverings
Tana : warps
Bana : wefts
Charkha : a wooden or metal round hspe machine used for spinning yarns
Pinde : cones or bobbins used for weaving
Khaddi : Pit looms locally referred as khaddi
Kanghi : reeds used in looms
Churri : term for blades
Pilas : term for pilers
Shoddy yarns : upholestry yarns
Madarsa : schools for muslims
Gohana : a famous market of Panipat
Muudhas/ Pidhis : round woven small chairs with short legs

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Fig 79 : A view of Devi temple at Panipat

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Fig 80 : Lake at Bu Ali Shah Qualandar Peer
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References
Websites:
https://panipat.gov.in/about-district/
https://www.britannica.com/place/Panipat
https://www.incredibleindia.org/content/incredibleindia/en/destinations/
panipat.html
https://www.holidify.com/pages/city-of-weavers-in-india-2015.
html
https://textilevaluechain.in/in-depth-analysis/textile-market-
report/panipat-city-of-handlooms-international-home-textiles-
hub/
https://haryana.gov.in/about-haryana/
https://www.holidify.com/pages/haryana-culture-80.html
https://www.businessworld.in/article/Handloom-industries-
in-Panipat-struggle-to-survive-post-lockdown/
27-07-2020-301770/
Books:
Crafts of Himachal Pradesh
Handmade In India
Textiles Of India Vol I
Textiles Of India Vol II
Textiles Of Cambodia

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Panipat is known as the “City of Weavers” since it is known for producing textiles and carpets. It is referred to as In-
dia’s Handloom Hub. The city, also known as the City of Handlooms, is teeming with producers of textile and hand-
icrafts, the majority of which are used for home furnishings. It is India’s largest hub for quality blankets and carpets,
and it boasts a handloom weaving industry. The world’s largest center for “shoddy yarn” is located in Panipat City.

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