SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT

2015

Sagar Sehrawat
Semester V
Department of Fashion Technology
 NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION
TECHNOLOGY

CERTIFICATE

Certified that this project report is the bonafide

work of Sagar Sehrawat who carried out the
project work under my supervision.

MENTOR
SUBMITTED BY:
Mr. Neeraj Jaiswal Sagar
Sehrawat
Associate Professor Sem. V
(DFT)
NIFT, Kangra
KGR13AP14

SIGNATURE
SIGNATURE
 Acknowledgement

This Internship Proved to bridge the gap between the theoretical and Practical
Aspects of textile Field. It was a great pleasure to be part of Vardhman Group. All
Thanks to my institute NIFT, Kangra for providing me the opportunity for getting the
practical knowledge at such an eminent company.

I am very thankful to the whole Vardhman Group for providing me the best possible
facilities and good environment during the period of my internship. I acknowledge
deep gratitude towards each and every employee of the group for providing me with
their valuable time.

I would like to express my deep gratitude to my mentor Mr. Neeraj Jaiswal for his
patient guidance, enthusiastic encouragement and useful critiques of this research
work.

I would also like to thank my Batch mates and the faculties of NIFT, Kangra for their
views and ideas for the given topic. This proved out to be really helpful for the
Project.

Finally, I wish to thank our CC, Mr. Saurabh Chaturvedi for his support and
encouragement throughout the project.
 OBJECTIVE OF INTERNSHIP

To understand the concept of spun yarn production, dyeing, printing and finishing of
yarns, testing and their quality aspects both technical as well as for commercial
purpose.
The machinery features, machine and material process parameters have been
described in detail in the areas as mentioned below:

Assignment – 1:
Observations to be made and information to be documented on the Yarn
manufacturing and winding section:
A. Raw material storage and inspection section.
B. Blow room section.
C. Carding section.
D. Drawing section.
E. Combing section.
F. Roving section.
G. Spinning section.

Assignment – 2:
Observations to be made and information to be documented on the weaving section

Assignment – 3:

Observations to be made and information to be documented on the Dyeing section

Assignment – 4:
Observations to be made and information to be documented on the different
Departments like Testing, Quality Check, and Management etc.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

1. Group Profile
2. Assignment 1 (Spinning processes)
3. Assignment 2 (Weaving processes)
4. Assignment 3 (Dyeing processes)
5. Assignment 4 (Different Departments with
processes involved)
6. Learning Outcomes
 GROUP PROFILE

Vardhman Group is a leading textile conglomerate in India having a turnover of $700

million. Spanning over 24 manufacturing facilities in five states across India, the
Group business portfolio includes Yarn, Greige and Processed Fabric, Sewing
Thread, Acrylic Fibre and Alloy Steel.

Vardhman Group manufacturing facilities include over 8,00,000 spindles, 65 tons per
day yarn and fibre dyeing, 900 shuttle less looms, 90 million meters per annum
processed fabric, 33 tons per day sewing thread, 18000 metric tons per annum
acrylic fibre and 100,000 tons per annum special and alloy steel.

Vardhman has evolved through history from a small beginning in 1965 into a modern
textile major under the dynamic leadership of its chairman, S.P.Oswal. His vision and
insight has given Vardhman an enviable position in the textile industry. Under his
leadership, Vardhman is efficiently using resources to innovate, diversify, integrate
and build its diverse operations into a dynamic modern enterprise.

An Insight into the Vardhman Logo:

 The “Flame” signifies the growth of each and every individual

associated with it whether he or she is a worker, an employee,
share holder or a customer.
 The “Stick” symbolizes cotton, which is basic raw material of the core product
of Vardhman Group.
 The “V” stands for Vardhman Group.
MISSION:

Vardhman aims to be world class textile organization producing diverse range

of products for the global textile market. Vardhman seeks to achieve
customer delight through excellence in manufacturing and customer service
based on creative combination of state-of-the-art technology and human
resources. Vardhman is committed to be responsible corporate citizen.

PHILOSOPHY:
 Faith in bright future of Indian textiles and hence continued expansion in
areas “which we know best”.
 Total customer focus in all operational areas.
 Product to be of best available quality for premium market segments through
TQM and Zero Defect Implementation in all functional areas.
 Global orientation targeting at least 20% production for exports.
 Integrated diversification/product range expansion.
 World-class manufacturing facilities with most modern R&D and process
technology.
 Faith in individual potential and respect for human values.
 Encouraging innovation for constant improvements to achieve excellence in
all functional areas.
 Accepting change as a way of life.
Appreciating our role as a responsible corporate citizen.
HISTORY

The industrial city of Ludhiana, located in the fertile Malwa region of Central Punjab
is otherwise known as the "Manchester of India". Within the precincts of this city is
located the Corporate headquarters of the Vardhman Group, a household name in
Northern India. The Vardhman Group, born in 1965, under the entrepreneurship of
Late Lala Rattan Chand Oswal has today blossomed into one of the largest Textile
Business houses in India.

At its inception, Vardhman had an installed capacity of 14,000 spindles, today; its
capacity has increased multifold to over 8 lacs spindles. In 1982 the Group entered
the sewing thread market in the country which was a forward integration of the
business. Today Vardhman Threads is the second largest producer of sewing thread
in India. In 1990, it undertook yet another diversification - this time into the weaving
business. The grey fabric weaving unit at Baddi (HP), commissioned in 1990 with a
capacity of 20,000 meters per day, has already made its mark as a quality producer
of Grey poplin, sheeting, and shirting in the domestic as well as foreign market. This
was followed by entry into fabric processing by setting up Auro Textiles at Baddi and
Vardhman Fabric at Budhni, Madhya Pradesh. Today the group has 900 shuttle less
looms and has processing capacity of 90mn meters fabrics/annum.

In the year 1999 the Group has added yet another feather to its cap with the setting
up of Vardhman Acrylics Ltd., Bharuch (Gujarat) which is a joint venture in Acrylic
Fibre production undertaken with Marubeni and Exlan of Japan. The company also
has a strong presence in the markets of Japan, Hong Kong, Korea, UK and EU in
addition to the domestic market. Adherence to systems and a true dedication to
quality has resulted in obtaining the coveted ISO 9002/ ISO 14002 quality award
which is the first in Textile industry in India and yet another laurel to its credit.
Yarns
Yarn Manufacturing is the major activity of the group accounting for 51 percent of the
group turnover. Vardhman is virtually a supermarket of yarns, producing the widest
range of cotton, synthetics and blended, Grey and Dyed yarns and Hand Knitting
Yarns, in which Vardhman is the market leader in India. The group has twenty one
production plants with a total capacity of over 8.8 lacs spindles, spread all over the
country. In many of the yarn market segments, Vardhman holds the largest market
share. Vardhman is also the largest exporters of yarn from India, exporting yarns
worth more than USD 282 million.

PERFORMANCE:

During the last 16 years, Vardhman Group has recorded 13 percent top line growth
rate, which is higher than the industry average growth rate. The Group turnover has
grown from Rs 723 crores in 1995 to Rs 5000 crores (about USD 1000 million) in
2013-14. The exports has grown from negligible level in early nineties to Rs 1500
crores (USD 300 million) in 2013-14.

PRODUCTS:

 Cotton Yarn
 Organic Cotton Yarn
 Organic Fair Trade Cotton Yarn
 Ellitwist Yarn
 Vortex Yarn
 Slub Yarn
 Acrylic Yarn
 Synthetic blends
 Synthetic Cotton blends
 Special Blended Yarn
 Core Spun Yarn
 Melanges , Hand Knitting Yarn
 Gassed Mercerised Yarn
 Modal Yarn , Speciality Yarn
 Tencel Yarn

CUSTOMER FOCUS:

At Vardhman, each customer is special and a constant source of inspiration.

Therefore, the Group has leveraged technology to develop a highly sensitive
response system for addressing customer needs. A high-tech in-house sampling
unit and a design studio enable Vardhman to provide customers with the most
innovative products. Vardhman has also implemented Enterprise Resource Planning
(ERP) System to provide facilities like online tracking of orders.

HUMAN RESOURCES:

The human resource development at Vardhman is aimed at enabling people

discover their true potential. The company endeavours to provide opportunities to
experiment with a strong culture built around talent, team work, competitive spirit,
continuous learning, trust and transparency. The well-designed system of
knowledge dissemination across various levels ensures access to intellectual capital.
The knowledge bank facilitates individual growth and excellence. Vardhman believes
that winning leaders are teachers and winning organisations always encourage and
reward teaching. The business processes, organisational structure and day to day
operating mechanism promote teaching for developing a stream of young leaders.

The calibre and professionalism of its people has helped Vardhman achieve and
maintain its leadership in the competitive environment of today. The Group has
initiated a number of human resource development processes to facilitate
consistent improvement in performance, productivity and effectiveness.

Vardhman believes in continuous learning and adapting to change as a way of life.

Preparing for transformation, the Group has designed elaborate training and
development programmes that encompass the technical, managerial, behavioural
and spiritual growth of its employees. Vardhman Training and Development
Centre at Ludhiana, caters to the distinct needs of its employees, where training
programmes are conducted throughout the year by in-house and external faculty.

Manav Vikas Kendras and Quality Circles are also similar initiatives where trained
faculty impart regular training, especially to workmen. Apart from this, managers
participate in training at some of the best institutes like the Harvard Business
School (USA), Institute of Management Development (Switzerland), ISB and IIMs in
India. Vardhman sincerely believes that when technology converges, people will
make all the difference.
THE SOCIAL DIMENSION:

As a commitment to the society and the workforce, Vardhman has provided

schools for the children, functional residential complexes for employees and
working women hostels for single women workers. Numerous recreational activities,
sports programmes and cultural events during festivities are regularly organised.
Besides these, the Company runs medical camps to meet the health requirements of
the people.

Sri Aurobindo College of Commerce and Management in Ludhiana and the

Aurobindo Public School at Baddi (Himachal Pradesh) are stellar examples of how
Vardhman is involved in providing specialised education and improving
competence levels in the society at large. Responding to the call for inclusive
growth, Vardhman Group has started a Capability Enhancement Training
Programme for socially under-privileged students on regular basis. The training
aims at enhancing the employability of under-privileged students belonging to
scheduled castes, scheduled tribes and other backward classes.

The Vardhman Group made earnest efforts to increase the income of cotton
growing farmers by imparting training to them on various aspects of cotton
cultivation through “Village Adoption Programme”. As a result of these efforts, the
cotton productivity of the adopted villages increased manifold and has crossed the
national cotton productivity average.
ENVIRONMENTAL CONSCIOUSNESS:

Decreasing green belts and ever increasing pollution has become the bane of
modernization. Vardhman has always made a conscious effort not only to preserve
the environment around us but also to contribute its mite towards building a better
world. A corollary of this consciousness is visible in the best pollution control
devices and practices. Vardhman has also increased green cover across all
manufacturing units. Going further, Vardhman group actively pioneered the setting
-up of Nimbua Greenfield Punjab Limited, a company dedicated to solid waste
treatment, storage and disposal in the State of Punjab, India.

QUALITY MANAGEMENT TECHNIQUES

At Vardhaman ,quality management techniques are given a lot of credit and are
followed religiously. One of the major quality management techniques followed by
them is Total Productive Maintenance (TPM).

Total Productive Maintenance is a maintenance program which involves maintaining

plants and equipment. The goal of the TPM program is to markedly increase
production while, at the same time, increasing employee morale and job satisfaction.

TPM brings maintenance into focus as a necessary and vitally important part of the
business. Down time for maintenance is scheduled as a part of the manufacturing
day and, in some cases, as an integral part of the manufacturing process. The goal
is to hold emergency and unscheduled maintenance to a minimum.

TPM starts with 5S. Problems cannot be clearly seen when the work place is
unorganized. Cleaning and organizing the workplace helps the team to uncover
problems. Making problems visible is the first step of improvement.
 English Equivalent 'S'
Japanese Term
Translation term

Seiri Organisation Sort

Seiton Tidiness Systematise

Seiso Cleaning Sweep

Seiketsu Standardisation Standardise

Shitsuke Discipline Self - Discipline

Total Productive Maintenance instructions and
methods have been put up in the factory to
increase awareness
 ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE

Chief Managing
Director
MR. S.P. OSWAL

Executive Director
MR. SACHIT JAIN

Vice-President Vice President

(Commercial & (Production)
Administration) MR.VINEET PANDEY

Managers Asst. Vice Manager (Dye

Chief Chief Manager Senior Manager
(Accounts/HR/Costi President House)
Manager (Worsted) (Spinning 1 &
ng/Commercial) (Engineering)
MR. J.S. Spinning 2) MR. ATUL
MR. DHEERAJ REKHI MR. VASANT BISEN VERMA
Executive, Executive, MEHTA
Officers & Officers &
Staff Staff Executive,
Executive,
Executive, Officers & Staff Officers &
Officers & Staff Staff

Production Production
Production Supervisors Supervisors
Supervisors

Workmen Workmen
Workmen
ASSIGNMENT- 1
AURO SPINNING MILLS (84000
SPINDLES)

 PRODUCTION DETAILS
Number of production halls – 5

UNIT 1 (HALL1)
Manufacturing Activity: Greige Cotton (both carded & combed) and core
spun with Lycra.

Unit Capacity:

 24,422 spindles
 Production of yarn per day: 16,000 kg

Product Range:

 10s-60s

UNIT 2 (HALL 2)
Manufacturing Activity: Sliver preparatory and sample line

Unit Capacity:

 1382 spindles
 Production of sliver per day: 9,000 kg

Product Range:

 Lycra, compact, compact+lycra, slub+lycra, slub, Blends

UNIT 3 (HALL 3)
Manufacturing Activity: Cotton and lycra (bulk orders)

Unit Capacity:

 38592 spindles

Product Range:

 Lycra, slub, fancy yarns

UNIT 4 (HALL 4)
Manufacturing Activity: Open- end yarn

Unit Capacity:

 1248 rotors
 Production of yarn per day: 12,000 kg

Product Range:

 6s-20s

UNIT 5 (HALL 5)
Manufacturing Activity: Compact (Elite) spun yarn

Unit Capacity:

 14256 spindles
 Production of yarn per day: 4000 kg

Product Range:

o 40s-200s
 PROCESS FLOW OF COTTON SPINNING

Opening & Sorting

Mixing

Blowroom

Carding

Pre-Combing

Combing

Draw Frame

Speed Frame

Ring Frame

Winding

Conditioning

Packing
 BLOWROOM
OPENING, SORTING AND MIXING
This process involves opening of fibre bales and opening tufts of cotton into smaller
tufts and removal of foreign materials. Mixing and sorting is done to:
 Reduce the cost of raw materials
 Have a uniform distribution of different types of cotton
 Moisturize the cotton and allow them to open up

While mixing, it should be considered that fibres should have identical properties like
length, strength etc. Price, colour and grade of cotton should be of approximately
same quality. Optimum amount of different varieties should be mixed to keep the
quality up to the mark. Soft waste should be added as per requirement.

Mixing: The material from the compressed bales are torn into small flocks manually
and stored into the mixing room for 12 hours. Meanwhile, the fibres absorb the
moisture from the air and get conditioned. Oil and water are sometimes used in the
mixing room and they are sprayed on the mixed lot. The mixture helps to moisturise
the material and reduce the fly and fluff in the mixing room.

Sorting: It is the procedure in which the compressed bales are broken into small
tufts which is done manually. Contaminations are sorted out in this process.
 Technical Specifications for Cotton

i. J-34 (70%)
Cotton Varieties Used
ii. S-6 (30%)
Bale Size 25” x 17” x 49”
Bale Weight 165-170kg

Cotton Varieties Parameters

Parameters J-34 S-6

Staple Length (mm) 28-29 29-30
Strength (gm/tex) 30-31 30-31
Elongation (%) 5.1-5.2 5.2-5.3
Micronnaire 4.8-5.0 3.8-4.2
Reflection Degree (Rd) 72-76 76-80
Brightness (B) 8-9 8-9

Technical Specifications for Polyester

Bale Size 39” x 25” x 49”

Bale Weight 400 kg
Length of Fibre 44mm
Count of Fibre 1.2 Dtex
Lustre Bright

Technical Specifications for Acrylic

Bale Size 40” x 24” x 46”

Bale Weight 300-350 kg
Length of Fibre 40mm
Count of Fibre 1.3 Dtex
Lustre Bright

Godowns within the Mills:

S GODO LENGT WIDTH AREA MATERIAL STORAGE

R. WN NO. H (in ft) (in ft.) (in sq.
NO. Ft.)
1 114 160 85 13600 Acrylic Fiber, Nylon Fiber,
Polyester Fiber
2 67A 100 60 6000 Acrylic Tow
3 105 100 60 6000 Acrylic Tow & Fiber
 4 55 75.2 60 4512 All Types of Filament
Yarns
5 33 80 90 7200 Raw Cotton
6 35 75 80 6000 Raw Cotton
7 105A 100 60 6000 Grey Yarn
8 66 60 42 2520 Grey Yarn
9 66A 43 50 2150 Grey Yarn
1 37 66 44 2904 Grey Yarn
0
1 63 66 47 3102 Grey Yarn
1
1 64 66 47 3102 Grey Yarn
2
1 36 152 45 6840 All types of waste
3

S GODOWN LENGT WIDT AREA MATERIAL STORED

R. NO. H (in ft.) H (in ft.) (in sq.
NO. Ft.)
1 S.T.-II 95 92 8740 Raw Cotton
Godowns (A)
2 S.T.-II 95 92 8740 Raw Cotton
Godowns (B)
3 S.T.-II 95 92 8740 Raw Cotton
Godowns (C)
4 S.T.-II 59 47.5 2805 Raw Cotton
Godowns (D)
In the blowroom, input is being fed in the form of cotton bales and the output appears
in the form of flocks. The main function of blow room is the opening, cleaning and
mixing of bale.

The main identifiable impurities are being removed by the machines at the farming
stage, the process is called ginning. Ginning process removes the main impurities
like seed coats, hair, stones, plastic, jute, cords etc. After ginning cotton bales are
formed in the compressed form. Each bale weighs approx 170 kg. Sometimes,
imported bales weigh even up to 300 kg.

The blow room of UNIT-I consists of 2 lines: Line-I and Line-II. Each line is formed by
the lay down of bales in the form of stack one over another, approximately 50 in
number.
Mixing can also be done at this stage by creating a lay down which consists of two or
more varieties, in the approximate ratios, according to the end-product requirement.

Blowroom: Laydown of cotton bales before mixing and sorting

Machines used:

UNIFLOCK

CONDENSER

MAXI FLOW

HEAVY
PARTICLE
SEPARATER-
ASTA

MPM

CVT-3

SECUROMAT
• C-4 CARD
• DK CARD
Unifloc A-10

Manufacturer: RIETER

This machine is used pluck the flocks out of the laid down bales, basically with the
help of suction. It consists of a take-up unit which is connected by vacuum. It has 2
types of rollers: 1 beater roller and 2 stripper roller.

The 2 stripper rollers consist of metallic blades on its surface, which penetrate inside
the bales for better grip on both the sides.

In between are the main rollers i.e. the beater rollers, which again have got spikes on
its surface. Its main function is to open the compressed bales and pluck out the
fibers, so that they can be sucked by the pneumatic action.

Traversal speed of take - up unit = 10.5m/min

Capacity of the machine = 1000kg/hr

In addition, the workers also pick the noticeable trash by hand like: hair, jute, plastic,
paper, stones etc. they also open the bunch of fibres manually.

Sorting and Mixing done by the Unifloc Machine.

TRANSPORTATION PIPES:

The flocks plucked in Uniflock through chute-feed system, (the pipes utilize
pneumatic action to pass on the plucked fibres) get more opened, while travelling
through the duct. In between there is also a metal detector which detects the
presence of any metal pieces inside the flocks and the damper diverts it into the
waste bag.
The ducts/pipes have been given colour coding:

Diameter
Sr.
Colour Code Function of Pipeline of Pipes Location
No
(mm)
1 Green Material 300 In all machines (Blowroom and
Transportation Card)
2 Blue Waste Transportation 220,300,5 MFC, CVT-3, Comber
50
3 Yellow Microdust 300 LVSA, CVT-3, SP-F, Card
Transportation
4 Red Fire Diversion 300 MFC, MPM,SP-F, Card

In case of spark inside the FBK pipes due to friction/metal particles, the entire
material inside the ducts is diverted outside the unit for preventing the fibre from
spreading.

CONDENSER:

Manufacturer: Trutzschler

Once the material has been passed through the metal detector, it goes to the
Condenser where the heavy particles are sucked and they fall down. Thus, in this
way the material is further cleaned.

MAXI FLOW:

Manufacturer: Trutzschler

The material is dropped in the machine by gravity through the Condenser and
advances with the beater action. The dust and contamination is separated and falls
down. The material is removed from the maxi flow with the help of suction from the
maxi machines.

SEPARATOR:

Manufacturer: Trutzschler

Heavy Particle Separator is simple equipment working on aero-dynamics principle.

The machine removes contaminations in the mixing such as metal parts and other
heavy impurities which may otherwise cause damage to expensive blow room and
carding machinery.

Asta: Heavy particles are separated in this machine before they go to MPM-
4 and MPM-6.

MPM:

Manufacturer: Trutzschler
The multi-mixer ensures a good blending at the beginning of the spinning process
which is essential for a uniform distribution and representation of all fibre
components into the yarn cross-section. This needs to be achieved during the
spinning processes as it cannot be achieved by the later processes alone. Proper
blending avoids variation in running conditions, yarn strength, uniformity and dye
take-up. The multi-mixer is usually available in 4, 6 or 8 chambers. In Vardhman,
there were two lines one containing the 6 chamber MPM and the other containing an
8 chamber MPM.

CVT-3

Manufacturer: Trutzschler

This is another machine which is used for cleaning of the material. First of all, the
feed roller feeds the material inside the machine. Then it passes through three
spikes beater of increasing spike intensity, which carries out the opening. It has a
colour contamination sorter (CCS).

Width of the machine: 1600mm

Capacity: 600- 800 kg/hr
SECUROMAT:

Manufacturer: Trutzschler

Foreign fibre detection takes place at the end of the blowroom line and directly
before the cards, where the opening degree of the fibres has reached a maximum
value, the foreign parts, however, still exist in a coherent form.

The separation of the foreign parts is effected by means of 32 compressed air

nozzles (10) distributed over the total working width of 1600 mm, which can be
individually controlled by pneumatic valves, in fact exactly at the point where a
foreign part is located on the surface of the needle roll.
 CARDING

Manufacturer: Lakshmi Reiter

No. Machines: 10

Manufacturer: Trutzschler

The carding process essentially involves the opening of fibre aggregates by working
between two closely spaced surfaces covered with inclined wires. The main objects
of carding are:

 To carry further process of fibres opening to a state of fibre individualization

 To remove neps, tiny lumps of fibres
 To deliver a continuous sliver for further processes.
 To remove impurities from the material by individual fibre separation.
 To enable parallelization of fibres.

The carding machine is supplied with cotton flocks through FBK ducts continuously.
The cotton then traverses through the rollers. The material is fed inside with the help
of feed roller which is located above the feed plate. The feed roller is followed by the
licker-in cylinder.

There is a licker-in under casing and back plate below and in front of the rollers
respectively. Under casing is a perforated plate which is responsible for collection of
the waste removal from the card. Back plate is positioned between the licker-in and
cylinder. Front plate is positioned between cylinder and the doffer. Both have spikes
and perform the same function as that of the set of cylinder and flats.

Flats are clothing on the rollers which is in the form of spiked belt. There are 102
flats of which about 42 are in working position at time of contact with cylinder.
Cylinder moves very fast as compared to the flats. Due to this movement, the best
fibres are straightened, made parallel and opening and cleaning is performed.

The back plate and front plate reduces the loading on the cylinder. The voids
between the cylinder, licker-in and cylinder, doffer are thus covered by front and back
plates.
The cylinder is having the main function of opening and cleaning the fibres.

The main function of the doffer is to collect the fibres from the cylinder and deliver
them in the form of a web. The function of the licker-in is breaking and opening of the
tufts of cotton and pass them onto the cylinder without retaining any of them.

To get optimum performance from the various elements of a card, it is essential to

use the right type and right combination of wire clothing. The metallic wire particulars
which could influence the carding process are: wire width, wire point density, tooth
angle, shape and height.

Carding performance can be improved by increasing the number of teeth cross wise
along the width of the card. This has led to the development of finer rib wires. The
doffer is clothed with a wire which has a higher trapping and holding power than the
cylinder wire. Thus it has a greater point density than cylinder wire.
 Carding Machine

Machine Specifications

Cylinder Speed 450-500 rpm

Licker-in Speed 1100-1200 rpm
Doffer Speed 25-30 rpm
Flat Speed 22-25 cm/min
Cylinder Diameter 1290 mm
Licker-in Diameter 250 mm
Doffer Diameter 500 mm
Can Diameter 24”
Can Height 42”

Technical Specifications

Linear Density of Lap Fed 400 gm/m

Rate of Feed 500 gm/min
Length of Sliver/Can 5500 m
Weight of Sliver/Can 26 kg
Linear Density of Sliver 4.8 gm/m
Production/min 85 m/min
Production/hour 5100 m/hr
Production (kg/hr) 25 kg/hr
 PRE-COMBING

Within the overall spinning process, the combing operation serves to improve the
raw material. Its use in the production of medium, medium fine and fine yarns
enables a positive effect to be exerted primarily on the following yarn characteristics:

 Yarn evenness
 Yarn strength
 Cleanliness
 Smoothness
 Visual appearance

Elimination of short fibres produces an improvement mainly in the staple length of

the fibre, but it also affects the fineness of the raw material. Since noil is on average
finer than the original raw material, the micronnaire value of the combed sliver is
slightly higher than that of the feed stock. The various machines used are:

Sliver Lap Machine

Manufacturer: Lakshmi

It is the preparatory process for combing. The basic purpose of this machine is to
mix different card can slivers, for homogeneous mixing to ensure uniformity among
the fibers. It is used to convert the leading hooks into trailing hooks. It also eliminates
wastes. Drafting arrangement – 4/6
Machine specifications:

Linear Density of Sliver Fed 4.8 gm/m

Rate of Feed 75-120 gm/min
Weight of Lap Delivered 10.45 kg
Weight of Bobbin 1.25 kg
Net Weight of Material 9.2 kg
Length of Lap 150 m
Linear Density of the Lap 61.33 gm/m
Time taken for one Lap 150 seconds
Delivery Speed 60 m/min
Delivery in gm/min 3679.8 gm/min
Production in kg/hr 220.74g/hr

Ribbon Lap Machine

Manufacturer: Laxmi

It the second step in the pre-combing process. In this machine the fibers are evened
out.

Production of ribbon laps

Unilap machine
This machine performs the combined function of sliver lap and ribbon lap. Its major
advantage is that it takes less time than the two machines combined.

COMBING

Manufacturer: Lakshmi Reiter

Model: E7/4

Number of Machines: 9

The main objectives are:

 Elimination of short fibres

 Elimination of remaining impurities
 Elimination of large proportion of neps
 Straight and parallelization of fibres
The input of this machine is 8 laps. The waste of coming is termed as “noil “.

The lap is passed through a top comb which has got 26 needles or pins per cm. The
function of this top comb is to catch the short fibres out of the lap. It is followed by
another brush roller which consists of plastic bristles on its surface to catch the fibres
flying around. After the combing action, the laps pass through three sets of rollers, of
which top ones are covered with rubber and bottom ones are made of steel. The
material then passes through a condenser acting as a guide and calendar roller to
form a sliver. Top clearer is present in the machine to take care of the fly being
generated.

Machine Specifications:

Number of Heads 8
Length of Machine 5.169 m
Width of Machine 1.318 m
Loading of Rollers Pneumatically
Can Diameter 18”
Can Height 40”
Technical Specifications:

Noil Percentage 8-25%

Feed Lap Weight 62.5 gm/m
Feed Lap Width 300 mm
Feed Lap Diameter (max) 450 mm
Delivery Speed 32 m/min
Length of Sliver in One Can 4000 m
Time Taken for One Can 125 minutes
Output/Machine 16-40kg/hr
Nips/min 300

Combing Machine
 DRAW FRAME

Manufacturer: Lakshmi

Manufacturer: RIETER

The main objectives are;

 Parallelization and equalization of fibres.

 Doubling
 Blending
 Removal of hooks
 Reducing the co – efficient of variation among the fibres

There are two types of drawframes:

Single head: in which one can is formed from doubling of 6 slivers.

Double head: in which two cans are formed. Each can is from doubling of six slivers.

Main features of RSB drawframe are:

 It is equipped with automatic can changer system.

 It features an auto leveller. A particular fineness value for the sliver is being set in
the machine. Variation of ±
 (1-5) % from the reference value, for a set time, say 3 sec, is sensed by the
displacement sensor. The sensor converts this variation into the pulse form at sends
the signal to control the feed accordingly. If the thickness is increased, feed is
reduced and vice-versa
 It is equipped with top and bottom stripper for cleaning top and bottom roller.

Machine Specifications:
LDO/6
Number of Deliveries 2
Can Changing System Automatic
Roller Weighing Pneumatic
Calendar Rollers Weighing Pneumatic
Can Diameter 18”
Can Height 40”
Top Roller Diameter 38.2 mm
Calendar Roller Diameter 62 mm

RSB 851
Delivery Speed 250-750 m/min
Rate of Feed 20-50 gm/min
Top Roller Diameter 39.2 mm
Can Changing System Automatic
Delivered Sliver Weight 4.8-4.92 gm/m

Comparison between RSB 851 and LDO/6

S.
parameter RSB 851 LDO/6
No.
1. Number of Deliveries Single Double
2. Can Changer Automatic Automatic
3. Creel Driving negative Positive
4. Delivery Speed (max) 800 m/min 500 m/min
5. Creel Capacity 8 16
6. Number of Doublings 8 8

SPEED FRAME (Simplex)

Model no. – LF-1400 A

Manufacturer – Lakshmi (LMW)

The speed frame performs three major functions:

  Drafting: it is the process where the sliver is attenuated by means of exerting
a pull on it with sets of rollers. This process ensures that the sliver increases
in length and the mass per unit length is decreased.
 Twisting: it is the process where the attenuated sliver is given rotational
twists by means of the rotator movement of the spindle
 Roving: it is the output of the speed frame. It takes a highly reduced
thickness (mass per unit length) in comparison of the sliver. The roving is
stored on bobbins and these forms the feed package for the ring frame.

The existence of the speed frame is justified by the fact that the sliver cannot be fed
directly to the ring frame, firstly due to the very high draft requirement at ring frame
and secondly, due to the very large space requirement in ring frame section.
Therefore, the need for the speed frame is to impart draft to the sliver to prepare it
for the ring frame and twist to provide strength to roving.

Main parts of speed frame:

 Creel – Here, the cams carrying the D.F. sliver are being placed. The function
of creel is to let the sliver reach the drafting zone, without any obstruction the
drafting zone, without any obstruction. The drafting zone, without any
obstruction, the main parts of creel are as follows:

 Creel rollers: it consists of sliver guides, which rotate with the help of creel
roller.
 Sliver guide: sliver guide shouldn’t be worn out so that the sliver doesn’t get
abraised due to friction.

 Drafting zone – this is the main portion of the machine, where the thick sliver
is converted into thinner one by applying appropriate draft. Its main parts are
as follows:
 Sliver guide: the sliver from the creel reaches first to the sliver guide of the
drafting zone. This guide is located on a traverse plate. Its size and color
varies acc. To the sliver hank. The guide shouldn’t be worn out and no cotton
fibres should be trapped in between.
 Bottom drafting rollers: there are three rollers made of steel arranged at
equal distances according to the length of the machine:
1. front bottom roller
2. middle bottom roller
3. back bottom roller
All the other parts of the machine which are required to provide draft to the
sliver rotate with the help of these rollers.

 Nosebar plate and spacer – In between the front and middle bottom roller,
lies a plate which is called nosebar plate. On this plate lies a square shaped
piece made of Al, which is called spacer. The size of the spacer varies
according to the roving hank. Its size – no. (In mm) is mentioned over its
surface itself. This spacer decided the gap between the 2 aprons. In a
machine, all the spaces should be of equal size and any roving should not be
made without spaces, as it would affect the quantity of the roving

 Bottom and top apron – Bottom apron runs between bottom roller, nosebar
plate and tension pulley. The tension pulley provides proper tension to the
apron. In between these two aprons, the sliver, after drafting, forms the roving.
That is why, it is very important that the aprons should not be worm out or
loose. They should be cleared up, time – to time. So that they could run
without any obstruction, otherwise the no. of breakages can increase and the
quality can deteriorate.

 Top arm – The arm placed over the bottom rollers is called top arm, which
consists of 3 rollers: front pair, back pair and cradle rollers. The top arm
presses the top rollers over the bottom ones, then pneumatic pressure
because of which the slivers, after passing through the drafting zone, take the
form of roving. The top arm should be cleaned regularly for good quantity.

Spindle parts –
 Spindle: spindles are positioned in front of the top arm on a rail. Spindles are
run through gear mechanism. Bobbin and flyer are placed on the spindle. To
rotate the bobbin separately, the bobbin rail also consists of gears. The bobbin
rail move up and down through ‘building motion’ because of which the roving
gets wound over the bobbin.
 Flyer: the part which helps to wind the roving over the bobbin is call flyer. A
‘twist master’ is placed over it, which helps in imparting twist to the roving,
which comes from the drafting zone. There is a finger on one side of the flyer
 which keeps the roving under pressure while it is being wound over the
bobbin.
 Separator: the steel plate lying between drafting zone and flyer is termed as
separator, which prevents the mingling of broken roving with the ones, nearby.
Machine shouldn’t be run when separator is down position.

 Gearing parts: gears are placed on the right side of the machine, which are
responsible for providing necessary motion to the different necessary motion
to the different parts of the machine.
 Fan: it is placed on the left side of the machine. There is a separate motor for
running the fan. Below each delivery lies a suction pipe, whose other end
goes to the suction duct. Inside the duct, there are 2 photocells. Because of
the fan, suction is generated in the whole duct. Because of which broken
roving gets sucked inside. The moment, this roving passes in between the 2
photocells, the machine stops automatically. The waste of the fan must be
cleaned time to time.

Simplex Machine

FAULTS OCURRING IN SPEED FRAME

 The main faults that occurs in the output of speed frame are as follows

A. Double roving: when, one roving breaks and clings to the surrounding roving,
while the machine is in running position.
Reasons:

 Less amount of pressure in the suction tube.

 The suction tube gets clogged because of cotton fluff
 Separator is not positioned correctly
B. Cuts in the roving:
Reasons:

 Cuts in the sliver during drawframe only

 Incorrect – pressure of the top arm.
 Rubber of top roller is having cuts or worn out
 Worn out apron
 Worn out twist master and flyer finger.

C. Undrafted roving:
Reasons:

 Less pressure from top arm

 Incorrect setting of temperature and humidity
 Incorrect setting of break draft, gauge, spacer etc. according to the
required count.

Hard bobbin:

Reasons:

 Less pressure on back rollers therefore thick roving

 high tension on the roving
 more twist in the roving than the required amount

D. Soft bobbin:
Reasons:

 less tension in the roving

 less twist in the roving than the required amount
E. Flied and fluffed bobbin;
Reasons:

 in calculation of fly and fluff from the surroundings into the roving
 uncovered draw frame cans
 not cleaning the racks and trolleys where bobbin are to be placed

F. Stained bobbin:
Reasons:

 not cleaning the grease or oil on the machine during maintenance cleaning
 uncleaned hands of the workers
 dropping the bobbins on the floor

Machine Specifications:

Number of Spindles 120

Bobbin Length 32 cm
Bobbin Diameter 4.8 cm
Flyer Speed (max.) 1400 rpm
Delivery Speed (max.) 30 m/min
Full Bobbin Weight (max.) 3 kg
Drafting System 3/3

Technical Specifications:

Linear Density of Sliver Fed 4.8 gm/m

Delivery Speed 18 m/min
Length of Roving on one Bobbin 2000 m
Production/hour/spindle 1080 m/hr
Production in kg/hour/spindle 0.772 kg
Waste Percentage 1%
TPI 0.96
RING FRAME

Manufacturer: Lakshmi Reiter

Model: DJ/5
Number of Machines: 24

In the Ring Frame department, yarns of required count are made from the bobbins.
Here, draft is being provided with the help of rollers and then twist is being imparted
with the help of spindle wound, side by side. So, the yarns made by this method are
wound on the ring bobbin.

Parts of a Ring Frame Machine are as follows:

 Creel – this is the top most part of the machine where the speed frame bobbin
is mounted. The various parts of the creel are :
 Bobbin holder: on the bobbin holder, the simple bobbin holder, the simple
bobbin is mounted. It is denoted that the bobbin is mounted properly and the
holder is not clogged. If it is so, the roving will not be fed properly and there
might be some tension which can cause breakage and neps formation.
 Creel rod: it is present between the drafting and the bobbin holder. It acts as
a guide for carrying the roving. Roving should always come from above the
guide rod.
 Drafting Zone – This is the most important Zone of the machine. Here the
roving is stretched to from the yarn. Its various parts are :
 Roving guide: it is used to guide the roving to the centre of the roving might
move outside the roller surfaces and generate waste. It is mounted near the
back roller.
 Bottom rolls: the machine has three bottom rolls. On top of the set of bottom
rolls, there is the top arm. The top arm also has 3 rollers and a cradle. The
cradle has spacers.
 Bottom apron & Top apron: bottom apron is mounted on the middle roller
and cradle of the bottom roller set. Top apron is mounted on the middle roller
and cradle of the top arm. On these aprons, the roving thread opens up to
take the form of final yarn.

Spindle Zone –

 Spindle: This is an important part of the machine which rotates with the help
of the spindle tape. This always rotates in the centre of the ring and the
 bobbin is lifted on it. If the spindle tape is not tightly, attached the spindle may
stop.
 Ring and Ring Traveler: it is a metallic ring on which the traveler holds the
yarn and moves along the periphery. The spindle moves up and down and
hence the bobbin gets filled.
 Laput hook and laput rail: before the thread gets wound on the bobbin it
passes through the laput hook. It should have a proper gauge.
 Gearing Zone – this has all the gears and wheels which need to be oiled and
maintained. This area should always be kept covered to prevent the entry of
fluff.
 Fan Zone – this zone consists of the main motor and the fan. Because of the
rotation of the fan at a high speed, suction is generated and waste is sucked,
which gets collected in the waste box. When this box gets filled completely, all
the waste should be taken out from the box and it should be cleaned so as to
avoid any chance of jamming in the fan and parts malfunctioning.
 Jockey Pulley and Drum Pulley Zone – the setting of the jockey pulley
should be correct, otherwise the tape bar would become out of track. It should
not get jammed, so it is cleaned from time to time.
 Overhead Blower Zone – the pressure with which the blower throws the air
should not be blocked with fluff and they should be properly set, otherwise it
would affect the quality.

Different Colour Bobbins and Their Importance:

In ring frame, bobbins of different colours are used like: red, yellow, blue, white
etc. the colour of bobbin varies according to the count of yarn. While the
production with bobbins of one colour is going on, the bobbins of other colours
should be used, otherwise the mixing of various varieties will occur and quality
will get deteriorated. The weight of speed frame bobbin varies from 1- 1.5 kg,
while that of ring frame varies from 60 – 65 gm.
Ring Frame
 Main Faults That Occur In Ring Frame:

A. BOBBIN FAULTS:
(i) Ring cut and black bobbin: Sometimes, the thread gets cut by the ring and
sometimes it gets cut by the ring and sometimes it gets blackened because of the
ring. The main reasons of its occurrence are:
 Improper setting of bobbin over the spindle because of the
accumulation of hard waste over the spindle
 Occurrence of double roving in the speed frame bobbin
 Slight displacement of ring of ring rail.
(ii) Bottom spoiled bobbin: if the yarn in the bobbin comes out from the bobbin
and gets entangled then it is called bottom spoiled bobbin. Its main reasons are as
follows.
 Improper setting of spindle
 Improper setting of bobbin on spindle due to carelessness
 Improper setting of bobbin on spindle due to tight bottom portion of the
bobbin
 Improper setting of the reel rail
(iii) Over filled bobbins: if the yarn from the upper position of the bobbin gets
entangled, then it is called over filled bobbins. Reasons:
 Using small bobbin than the required size.
 The machine still keeps on running even when doff has been achieved.
(iv) Soft bobbin:
 Less twist in the yarn because of rotation of lower speed due to any reason.
 Less tension of traveller acc. to the count.
(v) stained bobbin : reason :
 Not wiping off the oil & grease.
 Uncleaned hands of the worker.
B. YARN FAULTS:
(i) Double roving:
 Mingling of broken roving with the neighboring rovings of the creel.
 Malfunctioning of suction tube because of blockage due fluff.
(ii) Weak yarn:

 Occurrence of single roving in the speed frame bobbin.

 Loose tape
 Cut tape
(iii) Yarn with fluff:
 Inculcation of fluff from the environment into the yarn.
 Improper cleaning of the drafting zone & other parts.
 Dirty speed frame can/drum.
 Uncovered drums/cans.
 Malfunctioning of overhead blowers.

(iv) Yarn slub: yarn should be uniform in diameter. But at some places, the yarn
become fuller, where twist becomes less and the strength of the yarn reduces;
which is called slub.
 Improper pressure from the top arm.
 Apron which is being cut.
 Improper setting of the spacer.
(v) Neppy yarn: In the blow room, due to the formation of bunches of fibres
which occur on the surface, this defect arises. To regulate this, care is taken
at blowroom, carding and combing department.
(vi) Yarn with thick and thin places: the yarn thickness should be uniform
everywhere, but when thick & thin places arise in the yarn, with the length
varying from 8-10 mm, then such a yarn is called defected. These defects are
measured by uster machine per Km. eg. + 50% thick place means that the
thickness of the fault is 50% more than the actual thickness. Similarly, -50%
thin places imply that the fault is 50 % less than the actual thickness of the
yarn. The yarn with the thin place has comparatively lesser strength.
(vii) So, it can break and create more waste and effect the production & quality
adversely. Its main reasons are as follows :
 Improper pressure of the top rollers.
 Apron being cut or dented.
 Improper setting of the top arm.
 Incompatible size of spaces in relation to the count.
 Draft applied is not in accordance with the count.

The yarn realisation of the cotton fibres comes approximately 87 kg for carded yarns
and approximately 70 kg for combed yarns. This is so as the combing process
removes the short fibres. The noil % (waste removal %) for the combing process is
around 17%.

The bobbins from the ring frame m/c are collected in containers after their doffing
point has reached. In each container, a doff slip is put. This slip is important as it
contains the following details:

 Spindle no.
 Machine no.
 Count
 Time
 Date
 Name

This is important as the person loading the bobbins for identifiable faults. Also they
are important for count identification. After this, the trolleys are sent to the Autoconer
Machines. This has the function of forming bigger packages in the form of cones
which can be used for doubling and then twisting on the T.F.O.
Machine Specifications:

Spindle Height 240 mm

Spindle Diameter at Top 11 mm
Spindle Diameter at Bottom 15 mm
Distance Between Two Spindles 70 mm
Length of Separators 140 mm
Number of Spindles Per Ring Frame 448
Spindle Speed (max.) 18000 rpm
Delivery Speed 18 m/min
TPI 21.06/19.58
 WINDING SECTION

Yarn produced in the ring frame in the form of bobbins is taken into the winding
section for the formation of large package which is easily transported and various
faults are removed during the winding operation such as thick places, thin places
and neps.

After winding, the package should not contain the faults. The strength, elongation at
break point and appearance should not be altered and the quality of splicing should
be good. The weight of the cone produced is 2.05 – 2.45 kg and 1.25 kg as per
demand.

Manufacturer: Schalfhorst

Model: 338

Number of Machines: 4

Autoconer: For bigger yarn packages

The bobbins are attached on the spools and when the bobbins get exhausted, new
bobbin is attached manually after every bobbin change, splicing is done by the
machine for the identification of the counts of yarns. The machine follows the
following detection mechanism:

 Electronic sensors which detect the yarn breakage and stop the machine.
This is done through capacitors.

Machine Specifications:

Number of Drums on the Machine 60

Number of Bobbins on the Creel 5
Distance Between Two Spindles 13”
Drum Speed 1300-1600 m/min
Splicing Pneumatic
Magazine Capacity 6

Inspection of cone in the Autoconer

In this section the cones are kept under UV Light for inspection. This is one of the
steps in detecting any yarn faults and difference in colour of the grey yarn.
Inspection of cones under UV light
 CONDITIONING

Conditioning of the cones is done manually, i.e., room conditioning. The moisture
percent in the cotton yarns comes out to be 7.4%. The material after conditioning
remains for 15-20 minutes outside the conditioning room and final packaging is done
in cartons or pallets according to the requirement.

To avoid the loss of moisture from the cones, two humidifiers are provided in the
packing room. Because of these humidifiers, there is an additional gain of moisture
in the yarns on the cones. Increase in the moisture content of the yarn increases the
yarn realization; therefore, the conditioning of the yarns is necessary.

Following are the main objectives of conditioning:

 Imparting strength to the yarn

 Imparting uniformity to the yarn
 Imparting evenness to the yarn
 Increasing the moisture content in the yarn
 Increasing the yarn realization

Conditioning room for yarn where sprinklers impart moisture before the
cones undergo conditioning in the Xorella Machine.
Xorella Machine: A set of cones are put in the machine for moisture
regaining
 PACKING SECTION

According to the requirement of the buyer, the yarn package is made as cone or
cheese form. Further the yarn packages are packed in the following ways:

 Palette Packing:

This is done on reusable palettes which are wooden stands on which the
cones are kept in layers. After each layer of cones a cardboard is placed on
which further cones is placed. The total weight of the palette is approximately
750 kg. This palette packing is more cost effective as the cost incurred is only
of the cardboard sheets and plastic sheets. The following description is
mentioned on each palette.

 Count
 Lot no.
 Net weight
 Gross Weight
 Excise no.
 Date

Palette Packing
  Carton Packing:

The cones can be packed in cartons. The following description is mentioned

on each carton.

 Description
 Count Ne
 Excise no.
 Carton no.
 Gross weight
 Net weight
 Lot no.

The carton packing is less cost effective as the cartons are not
reusable
 PROCESS FLOW OF WORSTED SPINNING

• A variety of fibers, depending upon the output, are mixed so as to make them
uniform.
Mixing • Sandwich laydown takes place wherein a 60:40 ratio of regular and high bulk fiber is
(Laydown) laid.

• Input: Small bale tuft, Output: Open fiber tuft

Willowing

• Separation of each and every fiber

• Sliver preparation
Carding • Input: Open sliver tuft, Output: Card Sliver

• Increasing uniformity of fibers

Levelling • Parallelising the fibers
(Gill Box)

Simplex
• Input: Uniform Sliver, Output: Roving
Machine

• The draft is made according to the count of roving

Ring • Yarn is made out of roving.
Frame

• Removal of unwanted deformities of yarn and converting the ring frame yarn into a
bigger package
Autoconer

Cheese
• For plied yarns
Winding

• Two For One twister where plied yarns are twisted in order to achieve the output.
TFO

• Either the yarn is packed after this or it is sent to the dyeing house in the form of
hanks.
Reeling
 WILLOWING

Number of machines: 1

Manmade fibres do not require any cleaning so they are directly made into cards
from their fibre tufts. The primary purpose of the willowing machine is to open up the
fibre tufts into smaller tufts and to mix up various kinds of fibres.

This opening is accomplished by passing the material between two beaters. After
this, material is transported to the cards through a network of pipes.

Unlike the cotton spinning process, in the worsted process (where we to have to
process only synthetic fibres), there is no need of cleaning the fibres as they are
manmade.

Synthetic fiber is fed in the Willow Machine for opening and

mixing
 CARDING

Manufacturer: Thibeau, Tatham and Hergeth

Model Number: CA-6

Number of machines: 5

The carding process aims at forming a sliver. The fibres are individualised by means
of an extensive arrangement of numerous cylinders. These are arranged so as to
open up the fibres to the optimum and ultimately to separate each single fibre.

The carding machines used are “Thibeau” (manufacturer) aero feed cards. These
cards are fed by means of pipes, which are connected, to the willow machine.

Inside these machines, exists a complex arrangement of cylinders of various sizes

and this arrangement is designed to optimally open the fibres. The output of these
machines is a sliver, i.e., a loose rope of totally individualised fibres. This sliver is
stored in cans for transportation to the gill boxes.

Weight of Card Sliver 30-35 kg

Fibres Used 100% Acrylic, Nylon, Polyester and
Blends
Capacity of the Machine 65.75 kg/hr

Slivers of synthetic fiber coming out of the Carding Machine

 LEVELLING (GILL BOX)

Manufacturer: Schlumberger

Number of Machines: 13

The gill box is the equivalent of the draw frame used in the cotton spinning process.
Here the gill box is used to form tops or balls, which form the feed package for the
next stage. The gill box also combs the fibres to achieve the maximum parallelisation
of fibres. In addition, the gill box compresses a few card slivers into one sliver so it is
used for blending different kinds of material into one sliver.

In the gill box, the combing is done at the “faller” arrangement and the delivery rolls
do the calendaring. Thus the sliver produced is a blend of many slivers, i.e., is a
blend of different types of materials. According to the properties of the material it may
be given more than one passage through the machine. The sliver produced can be
stored in cans or be made into tops as per the requirement of the next process.

Parallelization of fibers in the Gill box

No. of Faller 2 x 72
Delivery Cans 1, 2 or 4
Can Specification 800 x 1100 mm
Diameter of Top Roll 80 mm
Bottom Delivery Roll Diameter 60 mm
Drafting Range 4.1- 11.9
Number of Cards fed to the machine 8
Capacity GN type: 800-1000kg/shift
GC type: 2000-3000 kg/shift

Drafting inside the Gill box: The sliver becomes

thinner and finer
 SIMPLEX

Simplex Machine

Manufacturer: NSC

Number of Machines: 3

Model Numbers: FMV-32 (2 numbers), FM-7 (1 number)

The speed frame performs three major functions:

 Drafting: it is the process where the sliver is attenuated by means of exerting

a pull on it with sets of rollers. This process ensures that the sliver increases
in length and the mass per unit length is decreased.
 Twisting: it is the process where the attenuated sliver is given rotational twists
by means of the rotary movement of the spindle
  Roving: it is the output of the speed frame. It takes a highly reduced thickness
(mass per unit length) in comparison of the sliver. The roving is stored on
bobbins and these forms the feed package for the ring frame.

The existence of the speed frame is justified by the fact that the sliver cannot be fed
directly to the ring frame, firstly due to the very high draft requirement at ring frame
and secondly, due to the very large space requirement in ring frame section.
Therefore, the speed frame imparts draft to the sliver to prepare it for the ring frame
and twist to provide strength to roving.

Machine Specifications:

Number of Drafting Elements 12

Drafting Range 9-26
Maximum Delivery Speed 200 m/min
Number of Cans Fed 24
Feed Roll Diameter 40 mm
Delivery Roll Diameter 25 & 50 mm
Capacity 100-200 kg/spindle/hr
Maximum Rubbing 1100 cycles/min
Bobbin Length 240 mm
Tension range between feed roll and 0.3% to 7.8%
draft apron
Tension range between rubbing apron 0% to -11%
and winding roller
Tension range between draft roller and 0% to 6%
rubbing apron
 RING FRAME

Manufacturer: Ishikawa

Number of Machines: 26

This is the stage where the yarn is finally formed. The ring frame gives the final draft
and the twist to the roving received from the speed frame.

The mechanism used consists of three sets of rollers for drafting and spindles for
providing twist to the yarn.

Ring Frame
The process is carried out with the help of rollers and the roving is drafted to a
requisite mass per unit length. It also imparts the required twist to the yarn through
the rotation of the spindle. The spindles have a very high rate of revolutions per
minute. This and some other criteria are adjusted so as to acquire a definite level of
TPI, i.e., twist per inch length of yarn.

The input in the ring frame is the roving received from the speed frame. This roving
is ultimately converted to “yarn”.

Machine Specifications:

Number of Spindles 400

Drafting System 3
Bobbin Length 220 mm
Spindle Length 240 mm
Capacity 12-15 metric ton/day
 AUTOCONER

Manufacturer: Jehlafhorjt and Murata

Number of Machines: 6

The bobbins from the ring frame m/c are collected in containers after their doffing
point has reached. In each container, a doff slip is put. This slip is important as it
contains the following details:

 Spindle no.
 Machine no.
 Count
 Time
 Date
 Name

This is important as the person is loading the bobbins for identifiable faults. Also they
are important for count identification. Each order has a specific colour bobbin allotted
to its lot. After this, the trolleys are sent to the Autoconer Machines. This has the
function of forming bigger packages in the form of cones which can be used for
doubling and then twisting on the T.F.O.
 Splicing is done side by side as the bigger packages are formed
in the Autoconer

Machine Specifications:

Manufacturer Jehlafhorjt
Number of Machines 5
Number of Heads in one Machine 60
Diameter of Yarn Guide Drum 95 mm
Width of Splicing Chamber 3.5 mm
Package Diameter (maximum) 326 mm
Capacity 8.20kg/spindle/shift
 TFO

Manufacturer: Veejay Lakshmi

Model Number: VJ 160 HS

Number of Machines: 43

This machine is used for doubling of yarn. The single yarn in the cone form is
converted into cheese. Two, three or four cones can be used to double the yarn
without applying any twist. This doubled yarn is wound on cheese.

This machine operates on the two for one principle of applying twist. The yarn is
gripped at two points during twisting before being wound on the cones.

The yarn packages in the form of cheese are kept in the containers of the TFO
twister. The yarn is threaded and is gripped at one point below the spindle and at the
other point, which continuously rotates and inserts twist. The twisted yarn is wound
on the cones. The twist is varied by changing the speed of rotating spindle in the
container which grips the yarn. After the cones are removed from the TFO, the
following data is mentioned.

 TPI
 Cone Weight
 Customer
 Count
 M/C Number
Machine Specifications:

Number of Spindles 168

Number of Spindles/Section 6
Spindle Gauge 254
Pot Diameter 168 mm
Twist Range 2.5-4.3 TPI
Package Type Cheese
Maximum Length of Package (mm) 170
Spindle Speed 12000 rpm
Stop Motion Mechanical
Machine Width 1.1 m
Machine Length 23.3 m

Two for One Twister

 CHEESE WINDING

Manufacturer: Saurer Allma

Number of Machines: 4

This step is carried out in order to increase the twist of the yarn. The cheeses
produced in the autoconer are wound onto bobbins using this machine. A total of 116
bobbins are produced at one go.

Cheese Winding Machine

 REELING

This is the process which is carried out in order to convert bobbins to hanks
depending upon the customer’s request. Each machine has 44 heads for preparing
44 hanks. Weight of the hank also depends upon the customer’s specifications.

Number of Machines: 18

Time taken for winding 44 hanks: 10 minutes for hanks of 150 gm each

Reeling is taking place in the Hank to Cone section

 PACKING
For worsted spun yarns, packing is done in three ways:

 Hank Packing (Automatic packer)

 Cone packing (Palette)
 Carton Packing

Auto packer
 FANCY YARNS

Fancy yarns or novelty yarns are typically made of two or more strands which are
produced to provide decorative surface effects. Based on the purpose of yarn, each
strand is referred to as the base yarn, the effect yarn or the binder yarn.

The base yarn provides the structure and strength, the effect yarn creates a
decorative detail like loops and knots and the binder yarn is used to tie the effect
yarn and the base yarn if binding is necessary.

L-R: Flurry Yarn, Boucle Yarn, Loop Yarn

Fancy yarns in Vardhman are produced by four machines:

NEEDLE SPINDLE MACHINE

The effect yarn is cut by a blade so as to produce the flurry effect after which it is
twisted with the base yarn.

The triangular blade in the Needle Spindle Machine is used

to produce the Flurry effect

Production of Flurry Yarn

 CROCHET MACHINE

This is a knitting machine which works on the principle of warp and weft yarn. The
yarn is firstly knit and then it is cut by the blade in order to create effects like feather
and knop. It is also used to make laces.

Crochet Machine
HOLLOW SPINDLE FANCY TWISTER - EHP MACHINE

EHP machine is a multi-purpose machine which is capable of producing most of

the effects. Loop, caterpillar, boucle, slub and knop are some of them. These
effects are created by setting the speed of the drafts according to the effect
required. For example, for a loop effect, the speed of the draft for base yarn
would be lesser in comparison to the speed of the draft of the effect yarn. This
way more yarn is wound around the base yarn in a shorter period of time creating
loops.

Hollow Spindle Fancy Twister

ESP MACHINE

In this machine, one yarn comes straight passing through the hollow spindle,
which is known as the base yarn, while the other yarn which is the effect yarn is
wrapped around the base yarn by a twister which moves around the base yarn.

SEQUIN MACHINE

In this machine, sequins are added to the base yarn one by yarn or at regular
intervals that are set depending on the requirement. Garlands of sequins are
loaded on the machine while the base yarn is fed from one side. Once the
sequins have been attached to the effect yarn it is twisted along with the base
yarn and finally wound on a cone.

Sequins are kept on the top inside a very long inverted tube from
where the sequins are fed into the yarn periodically
ASSIGNMENT- 2
AURO WEAVING MILLS
In Auro weaving mills greige fabric is produced. The raw material is
provided by auro spinning mills.

The Auro weaving mills has the following units in the production
department:

 Preparatory unit
 4 loom sheds
 Folding and inspection unit

Plain, twill, satin, matt, oxford, pique cord weaves are produced on the
looms.

Weft wise stretch fabrics are also produced in Auro weaving mills. In weft
core spun yarns are used in which the core is of Lycra.

 Daily production of Auro weaving mills- 70,000 – 10,000 metres of

fabric per day.

Process flow of weaving

Winding

Warping

Warp
Sizing
Preparation

Drafting/
Yarn from Drawing
Yarn Weaving
spinning
Preparation
section
Looming

Weft
Winding
Preparation
PREPRATORY UNIT
The preparatory unit has the following sections:

 Warping and rewinding section

 Sizing section
 Drawing-in section

WARPING
The process of arranging a convenient number of warp yarns that can be
collected in a sheet form and wound on to a warper’s beam.

The aim of warping is winding on one package to a certain number of

warp-ends of a particular length. During warping, ends from many winding
packages are wound on a common package to prepare a warp beam.

Requirements for warping

 The tension of all wound ends must be uniform and possibly
constant during all the time of withdrawal from supply packages.
 Warping should not impair the physical and mechanical properties of
the yarn.
 The tension should be moderate, to allow the yarn to completely
retain the elastic properties and strength.
 The surface of the warping package must be cylindrical.
 A predetermined length of the warping should be observed.
 The production rate of warping should be observed and it should be
as high as possible.

MACHINES USED
 Warping machine: benniger ben-direct
 No. of machines: 3
 No. of bobbins: 640
 Max. Speed = 1200 RPM
 Running speed = 800-900 RPM
 Creel capacity = 640 cones
 Warp beam length = 1800 m
PROCESS
In one warping machine only 640 threads can be wound on the warper’s
beam but the number of threads needed in the fabric is much more than
that. So the number of threads is divided accordingly in a ratio and a
number of warp beams are created.

If warp must have ‘m’ threads, the total no. of ends as divided by a certain
no. ‘N’ no. of possibly equal parts containing ‘p’ ends, which are wound on
a warping beam. Upon warping ‘n’ beams with ‘p’ ends on each, a set of
beams with a total no. of ends m=p * n is formed which is necessary for
producing the given fabric.

For example if the number of warp threads required are 10,000. So, 20
warper beams are made each with 500 threads.
PASSAGE OF YARN IN DIRECT WARPING Machine

Creel Package

Yarn
Tensioners

Yarn stop
motion
Sensor

Yarn guides

Expanding
Comb

Guide roller

Warper’s
beam

REWINDING
Rewinding is done to utilize the remaining yarn in packages after the
completion of warping beam and to form big packages from small
packages.

No. of rewinding machines: 1

Type: drum type winding

SIZING
The main purpose of sizing is to improve strength and abrasion resistance
of the warp yarns by causing the fibres to adhere together to make
smooth and to lubricate the warp yarns so that there is minimum friction
where they rub together various parts in the weaving process. Sizing
increases the abrasion resistance of the yarn. Softeners are added so the
yarn does not become brittle.
SIZING Chemicals
 Starch
 Binder
 Acrylic base
 Softener

MACHINEs
 Machine: benniger sizing machine, sucker Muller sizing machine
 No. of machines: 3
 Creel capacity: 20
 Max. Speed : 125 MPM
 Running Speed : 70-80 MPM

PARTS OF SIZING Machine

 Creel zone
 Size box A
 Size box B
 Pre dryer
 Final dryer
 Waxing zone
 Dry split zone
 Comb
 Weaver’s beam

Factors Affecting Degree of Sizing:

 Concentration
 Viscosity of sizing liquor
 Temperature of sizing liquor
 Speed
 Squeezing pressure

The size composition depends on many factors:

 The fibrous materials which the yarn is made off
 The twist of the yarn
 Linear density of the yarn
 Spinning method
 The density and pattern of weave of the fabric to be produced
 Type of the weaving loom
 Count of the yarn

DRAWING-IN
Drawing-in is the consecutive passing of warp ends through the drop
wires, healds and reed. Drawing-in is usually done manually and is time
consuming. Drawing-in is the final preparatory process.

Drop Pin
The drop wire is a part of warp stop motion designated for stopping the
loom in case of warp breakage.

The size and weight droppers depend on the linear density of the warp
yarn. Greater the warp linear- density, heavier must be the dropper.

Healds
Healds are designed for the shed formation on the loom. They are of
different designs. The total no. of healds depends upon the weaving
repeat in the warp, the kind of feed and density of the fabric in the warp.
The set of the aids on the looms is called harness.

Reed
The reed is used for controlling the spreading of warp ends throughout the
cloth width and for beating up of the weft to the fabric fell.

The number of warp ends drawn through the reed dent depends upon the
structure of the fabric.

MACHINEs
 Machine: Stabuli delta 110
 No. Of machines: 1
 Speed: 40-140 ends/mins

LOOM SHED
Weaving involves using a loom to interlace of two sets of threads at right
angles to each other: the warp and the weft (older woof). One warp thread
is called and an end and one weft thread is a pick, the warp threads are
held taut and in parallel order, typically in a loom of which there are many
different types. Weaving can be summarized as a repetition of these three
actions:

 Primary Motions
 Secondary Motions
 Tertiary Motions

Primary Motions
Shedding: Where the ends are separated by raising or lowering heald
frames (heddles) to form a clear space where the pick can pass

Picking: Where the weft or pick is propelled across the loom by an air-jet,
a rapier or a shuttle

Beating-up or battening: Where the weft is pushed up against the fell

of the cloth by the reed.

Secondary Motions
Let off Motion: where the warp is let off the warp beam at a regulated
speed to make the filling even and of the required design
Take up Motion: Takes up the woven fabric in a regulated manner so that
the density of filling is maintained

Tertiary Motions: The stop motions: to stop the loom in the event of a
Thread break. The two main stop motions are the

 Warp stop motion

 Weft stop motion

The principal parts of a loom are:

 The frame

 The warp-beam or weavers beam

 The cloth-roll

 The heddles and their mounting,

 The reed

MACHINES USED
Vardhman has 4 Loom shed units. All the units have air jet looms. Air jet
looms are shuttle less looms that use compressed air to propel the weft
thread.

Air jet looms are used for bulk weaving. It requires an even yarn and good
quality of sizing. Air jet looms are used to produce basic weaves.

Auro weaving mills have a total of 264 air jet looms.

 Count range: 70 0/e to 80s singles,

(10,12,14,16,20,30,40,50,60,70,80)(for lycra)
 Total loom : 264

Airjet looms : 264

unit 1 unit 2 unit 3 unit 3A

72 airjet 88 airjet 48 airjet 48 airjet

looms looms looms looms

Airjet looms
(72+88+48+56)

Tsudakoma Picanol Toyota

Tsuakoma 205i Picanol OMNI Toyota jet 710

Tsudakoma 209i Picanol delta-x

Tsudakoma zax
Knotting
Process to join warp of new weaver beam with old warp sheet using
knotting machine.

Gaiting
Gaiting is to replace old weaver’s beam, drop wires, healdwires, and reed
with new one.

Air Jet Weaving:

  Jet looms take the weft yarn across the loom by using high speed air
blast nozzles.
 The drag force of air carries the yarn from one side to the other.
 The initial propulsion force is provided by a main nozzle.
 Relay nozzles (auxiliary nozzles) along the shed produce additional
booster jets to help carry the yarns across the loom.
 The fabric width of air-jet loom is normally narrower than rapier or
projectile loom
 Jet looms are faster than projectile or rapier looms (picks per
minute).
 However, they cannot produce as great a variety of fabrics (no
heavy or bulky yarns), nor can they produce as a wide a fabric (jets
have less yarn-carrying power).
 Jet looms also do less damage to the warp since there is no abrasion
of this yarn by the jet of air, unlike the projectile or rapier.

Safety Measures
 Before starting m/c, keep one’s hands away from reed & other loom
parts
 For drawing yarns manually, use yarn drawer
 Keep emergency button pressed if one has to work on loom
Folding and Inspection
In folding and inspection department the fabric produced is inspected on
the basis of 4 point system and then folded or rolled as per customer
requirements and then the bales are sorted on basis of the number of
defects found. The bales are sorted in A, B and D grades.

Purpose of this department is to check for defects on the woven fabric roll.

This is carried out on machines where the roll was monitored warp wise
against an illuminated background screen such that the lamina of the
fabric was visible & the operator could stop & mark a defect where he
found a defect in the fabric.

4 point INSPECTION System

Length of defect in fabric, either length or width points allotted

 Up to 3 inch 1

 Over 3 inch. Up to 6 inch 2

 Over 6 inch upto 9 inch 3

 Over 9 inch 4

 Holes and openings 1 inch or less 2

 Over 1 inch 4
PROCESS FLOW OF FOLDING and Inspection

Inspection

Folding/Rol
ling

Bale
Sorting

Bale
Packing

MACHINES

Inspection Machines
Machine: almac inspection machine

No. Of machines: 9
ROLLING machines
Machine: laxmi lx450 (for Lycra) and laxmi rolling machine (for 2 ply and
fine fabrics)

No. Of machines: 2

Folding MACHINES
Machine: laxmi folding machine

No. Of machines: 1

Defects noted DURING inspection

Minor DEFECTS
 Stain
 Slub
 Contamination

Major defects
 Bent pick
 Double pick
 Thick place
 Stain mark
 Oily weft
 Weft distortion
 Stained pick
The defects are marked by tying a thread at the selvage where the defect
has occurred.

MAHAVIR SPINNING MILLS

Mahavir spinning mills is a part of Vardhman textiles. Thread as well as
fabric is produced in Mahavir spinning mills. Both greige and yarn dyed
fabric is produced there.

The raw material comes from:

 Auro spinning mill, baddi

 Arisht spinning mill, baddi
 Arihant spinning mill, malerkotla
 Vardhman fabrics limited, budhni.
 Vsm, baddi
 Vtl satlapur.

Weaving OF YARN Dyed fabrics

For the production of yarn dyed fabrics the yarn has to be dyed prior to
weaving. Both the warp and the weft yarns are dyed prior to weaving in
the Auro Dyeing Unit.

The warp yarns are wrapped on the warper’s beam and sent to auro
dyeing. The beams are dyed as they are and sent back for weaving. For
the weft packages of yarns are sent to auro dyeing which are dyed in
cheese form.

After dyeing the yarns are used to weave checks and plaids.
Preparatory Unit
In the preparatory unit the warp yarns are prepared for weaving. The
preparatory unit consists of

 Warping section and rewinding section

 Sizing section
 Drawing-in section

Warping SECTION

W A R P IN G
WARPING
S E C T IO N
SECTION

D IR E C T
DIRECT S E C T IO N A L
SECTIONAL
W A R P IN G
WARPING W A R P IN G
WARPING

Direct warping
It is used for long runs of grey yarns, single colour yarns and simple
patterns of coloured yarns. It can be used to make warp sheets. The total
amount of coloured yarns involved is less than 15% of the total.

Suction devices are provided in between warping machines which suck all
the unwanted cotton fibres flying.

MACHINES

 MACHINE: Moenus Sucker Gmbh(Germany) Comwarp, Beninger

Ben-Direct
 No. Of machines: 2
 Creel capacity: Moenus Sucker- 672 Beninger- 656

AMBIENT CONDITIONS IN WARPING DEPARTMENT

 Temperature range: 27-30°c
 Relative humidity: 60-80%
Sectional WARPING (pattern warping)
It is used for short runs especially for fancy pattern fabrics where the
amount of coloured yarn is more than 15% of the total.

Sectional warping is best suited for very long warps (15 yards or more),
any size or style of yarn and 2 inch repeats (most sections on a sectional
warp beam are 2" wide). It is not very well suited for mixed warps with
many or random yarn changes. It also requires more space and
equipment.

MACHINE

 MACHINE: Benninger Ben-tronic , Prashant Gamatex ESP 1100

 No. of machines: Benninger-6, PRASHANT Gamatex- 2

Rewinding Section
Rewinding is done to utilize the remaining yarn in packages after the
completion of warping beam and to form big packages from small
packages for selling purpose.

MACHINE
 Machine: P.S. METTLER RECO DA
 No. of machines: 2
 Package produced: open wound package
 No. of spindles: 60(on two sides)

Sizing section

S IZ IN G
SIZING
S E C T IO N
SECTION

S I Z IN G
SIZING S I Z IN G
SIZING
K IT C H E N
KITCHEN M A C H IN E
MACHINE
Sizing KITCHEN
Size is prepared at the top floor in the sizing kitchen and transferred to the
machine with the help pipes.

Sizing APPARTUS

PRESSURE STORAGE VESSEL

PREMIXER COOKER

SIZING ingredients
 Texoplast
 Sonycryl
 Mutton tallow
 Water
 Ketanol
 Antistatic

Sizing MACHINE
 No. OF MACHINEs: 3
 Tsudakoma: Only For Direct Beam
 Moenus Sucker: Both For Direct & Sectional Beam
 Moenus Sucker: Only For Sectional Beam.

SIZE PICK UP percentage

 Open End Yarn-8%
 Compact Yarn-12%
 Carded Yarn- 16%
 Combed Yarn- 16%

DRAWING-in SECTION

DRAWING-IN DEPARTMENT

AUTOMATIC DRAWNG- WASHING &

MANUAL DRAWING-IN
IN CLEANING SECTION
Drawing-in is the final preparatory process. Auto drawing: Here drawing is
done automatically using rapier hook.

 MACHINE: Staubli(KOREA) DELTA-110

Manual Drawing-in: Done manually to draw warp yarn through drop pins,
heald frames, and reed. Two workmen:

 Reacher-in: puts warp in drawing-in pin or needle.

 Pinner: Holding drawing-in pins& draws the warp yarns through drop
pins, Heald frames & reed.

Loom shed

Total loom : 224

Airjet looms : 142 Rapier looms : 82

AIRJET LOOMS RAPIER LOOMS

(24+118) (6+74+2)

TSUDAKOMA ZAX PICANOL GTX

TSUDAKOMA
ZAX9100 PICANOL GAMMAX

DORNIER GPX

Knotting
It is the process to join warp of new weaver beam with old warp sheet
using knotting machine.

 Type: grey and dyed yarn

 Machine: staubli knotting machine.
 Approximate time: 1-1.5hr.

Gaiting
Gaiting is to replace old weaver’s beam, drop wires, healdwires, and reed
with new one.

 Machine: GENKINGER HOBTEX hydraulic gaiting machine.

Quality assurance/folding department

 Inspection zone.
 Bale sorting zone.
 Bale packing zone.

Machines

Inspection machine
 No. of machines: 7
 Manufacturer: Laxmi

Mending table
 No. of machines: 2
 Manufacturer: Laxmi

Folding MACHINE
 No. of machines: 2
 Manufacturer: Laxmi

Rolling Machine
 No. of machines: 1
 Manufacturer: Laxmi

Inspection cum rolling machine

 No. of machines: 1
 Manufacturer: Navjyot machine works ltd

Bale pressing MACHINE

 No. of machines: 1
 Manufacturer: Laxmi

DESIGN DEVELOPMENT
Designing plays an important role in marketing. At Vardhman, the people
who are in marketing deal with the customer and gives the designing
department about what is to be made and what is the demand of the
customer. Marketing sector gives the designing department information
regarding the sales.

Vardhman Industries creative department mainly deals with the designing

and development of checks and stripes and creative fabrics with different
weaves for suiting and shirting. To achieve this, the unit follows a certain
procedure.

PROCESS
 Samples are made,
 Sent to the Customers,
 The demand is identified,
 And the required design and quantity are supplied.

CENTRAL PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT CENTE

(CPDC)
This is the main head of the design and prototype department of
Vardhman Textiles. It has 3 main departments functioning under it,

1. CDC: Creative Design Cell

2. PDC: Product Development Cell
3. Pilot Plant

The Pilot Plant has 3 Sizing machines, 4 warping machines and 16 looms.

They deal with all types of yarns such as, Viscose, Linen, cotton, polyester,
polyester cotton mix, core spun yarn (CSY), etc.

The CDC department works on 2 seasons per year. Apart from that, they
have the routine development team that functions throughout the year on
trending designs and trends.

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT CENTER

 Research
 Selection of raw material
 Process control
 Process development
 Product testing
  Quality assurances
 Specification tests

INSTRUMENTS USED IN R & D LAB

Tension meter, Digital thread counter , Weighing scale, Circular cutter,
Stirrer, Tachometer, Shore hardness tester, Yarn appearance tester,
Automatic twist tester, Single yarn strength, tester, Bess lay balance,
Desiccators, Moisture meter, Tearing strength tester, Lea strength tester,
Refract meter.

AURO TEXTILES
VARDHMAN Groups has stepped into the textile industry with the setup of
AURO Textiles at Baddi (H.P). Chief Minister of Himachal Pradesh, Mr. Prem
Kumar Dhumal inaugurated it and its production started in December
2000.

The whole plant covers an area of 12 acres of land. Since Textile field is
new to this group so they had their technical collaboration with the
renowned group of Japan “TOKAI SENKO”. All the machinery installed in
plant was imported from Japan, Italy & Germany. At present the plant has
the capacity to produce 30 lakh Meter/ Month of fabric.

The plant is self-sufficient in prospect of the following: -

 Power Supply as it has its own Power Generation Plant.

 Boiler for steam and,
 Effluent Treatment Plant for the water used in the processing of
fabric.

The plant not only uses the above utilities (power and steam) for its own
consumption but also supply to its sister concerns also as: -

Power
 Auro Weaving Mills
 100% Export Oriented Unit
 Auro Spinning mills

Steam
 Auro dyeing
 VSGM 100 % Export oriented unit
 Auro Weaving mills
The raw material for AURO TEXTILES Comes from

 Auro Weaving Mills

 Mahavir Spinning Mills

Greige fabric or piece dyed fabric comes from both Auro spinning mills
and Mahavir spinning mills. Yarn dyed fabric comes only from Mahavir
spinning mills.

Auro Textiles has four major departments

1. Personnel & IR Department.
2. Commercial Department.
3. Engineering Department.
4. Production Department.

The production department of Auro textiles is divided into the

following sections:
 Preparatory section
 Dyeing section
 Finishing section
 Inspection and folding
 Technical section

Preparatory section
The Fabric from the mills is received in the following Forms:

 Roll Form
 Bale form
 Pallet form

Firstly the grey cloth is send to technical department where the physical
and chemical testing of grey cloth takes place. After testing of cloth, all
the reason is written in the dispo sheet by technical department and a
copy of all is send to all the concerned departments and now it is ready
for grey checking which is examined on grey checking machine.

Then fabric ends are stitched so that a fabric batch of longer length is
formed. This facilitates that processing can be carried out continuously.
The fabric ends are stitched together with help of stitching machines.
The fabric received by Auro textiles contains many natural and chemical
impurities which have to be removed to increase the dye affinity of the
fabric and to add value to the fabric.

PROCESSESS DONE in the PREPARATORY SECTION

 Opening and stitching of fabric
 Pre-treatment
 Mercerization
 Mechanical finishes (seuding)

Types of stitching machine

There are two types of stitching machine depending upon the type of the
fabric.

 PICKASE M/C: - 2 Thread (Japan) (for normal finished material)

 JUKI M/C: - 5 Thread (Japan) (those material which are going to be
peached)
PRE-TREATMENT
The pre-treatment of fabric is done to remove impurities, add value to the
fabric and enhance its appeal.

PROCESS FLOW OF PRETREATMENT

 SINGEIN
G

DESIZIN
G

SCOURI
NG

BLEACHI
NG

WASHIN
G

DRYING

Singeing
Singeing is the burning off of loose fibres sticking out of textile goods. It is
usually the first step carried out after weaving. Singeing is done through a
flame produced by propane and air.

Purpose
 Clean fabric surface
  Reduce pilling
 Increased wet ability.
 Improved visibility of the fabric structure
 Decreased contamination through removal of fluff and lint.

MACHINES
No. of machines: 2

Machine 1:

 Osthoff- senge (Germany)

 Speed: 70 metres per min
 No. of burners: 2
 Pressure: 12 milli bar

Machine 2:

 Sando iron (Japan)

 No. of burners: 4
 No. Of Burners: 4
 Gas Used: Propane & air mixture (85:15)
 Angle of gas burners: 45°
 Temp. Of flame: from 500 0C to 1800 0C
 No. Of cooling cylinders: 5
 Pressure of steam in 2 drying cylinders: 2 kg/cmsq.
 No. Of brushing rollers: 6pairs(moving in direction opposite to
fabric)

Speed of fabric according to the fabric quality

S.No FABRIC QUALITY SPEED (m/min)

.
1 Bottom weight 60 – 70
2. Top weight (Shirting) 90 – 100
3 For 2 ply 50-70
4 Yarn dyed 120
De-sizing and Scouring
Desizing is the process of removing the size material from the warp yarns
in woven fabrics. The size applied on the fabric makes fabric hydrophobic
and all other processing is carried in water as the medium so it is
necessary to remove the size.

Scouring: Even after desizing the fabric’s absorbency is still the main
problem as it contains fats and waxes (both added and natural). The main
purpose of scouring is to remove natural as well as added impurities
essentially of water repellent character as possible and make the fabric
highly absorbent without damaging. In the Auro Textile desizing and
scouring processes are conducted simultaneously at the same time in one
operation.

Washing: After each washer, a nip roller and an expander roller is

provided, so that fabric becomes free of creases whenever it passes from
one washer to another and also for the complete removal of impurities.

Purpose
 Removal of added impurities like starch
 Weight loss
 Improved wet ability

TYPES OF DESIZING
 Enzymatic desizing ( for yarn dyed fabrics)
 Oxidative desizing (for greige fabric)

Process
The fabric is first washed with hot water in washer 1 to washer 4. The
temperature is 90 degree Celsius. Due to the hot water wash 30-40% size
is removed. Then a cold wash is given to the fabric in washer 5. Then the
fabric goes to the desizing scouring saturator where it is padded with
chemicals and then sent to the reaction chamber- a where it is allowed to
stay for some time so that the chemicals react with the fabric. The
scouring and desizing chemicals are added in the same chamber.

Chemicals used in DESIZING scouring SATURATOR

 Scouring agent: caustic soda( NAOH)
 Desizing agent: sodium persulphate
 Wetting agent: it increases the surface tension of water which
increases the absorbency in fabric
Machines
 Old perble machine: used for desizing, scouring and bleaching
 New perble machine: used for desizing, scouring and bleaching
 Pad steamer machine: used for enzymatic desizing
 Company: Sando iron (Japan)
 No. of machines: 3
 Capacity of saturator tank: 500 lt.

CHEMICALS USED IN SATURATOR AND THEIR FUNCTIONS ARE

 SODIUM PERSULPHATE: It is an oxidative Desizing agent. The

biggest advantage of using Sodium Persulphate is its mode of
action. The mode of action of Persulphate is much faster and is
much more economical. The padding of Sodium Persulphate is done
at room temperature because of the fact that other chemicals of the
saturator catalytically decompose it.
 NaOH: It is used as scouring agent for cotton fabric.
 SERRIX 2UDI: It’s a sequestering agent
 MORPON: It is a wetting agent.

CONCENTRATION OF NaOH USED FOR DIFFERENT FABRIC

S.NO. FABRIC TYPE NAOH CONC. GPL

1. 100% Cotton (B/W) 60
2. 100% Cotton 30 s 50
3. 100% Cotton (SHIRTING) 55
4. 2 PLY Fabric 60
5. Polyester /Cotton 30

Bleaching
Bleaching is the process of removing natural pigments and vegetable
impurities. Oxidative bleaching is done with help of hydrogen peroxide
and sodium hypochlorite.

For yarn dyed fabrics, fabrics dyed using reactive dyes are not bleached while
fabrics dyed with vat dyes are bleached.
Purpose
 Improved whiteness
 Level dyeing properties

Process
After the reaction chamber-A the fabric is washed in hot water in washer 1
to washer 4. Then the fabric is given a cold wash in washer 5 to bring the
fabric to room temperature. Then the fabric goes to peroxide bleaching
saturator where it is padded with bleaching chemicals. Then the fabric
goes to reaction chamber-B where it is kept for some time so that reaction
takes place.

Chemicals used in THE PEROXIDE Bleaching saturator

 Bleaching agent: hydrogen peroxide
 Caustic soda: to make the pH alkaline
 Sequestering agent: to remove metallic particles which might tear
the fabric

MACHINEs
 Old perble range: bleaching with sodium hypochlorite
 New perble range: bleaching with hydrogen peroxide

CHLORITE BLEACHING:
This type of bleaching is carried out in Old Perble Range not in NEW Perble
Range i.e. this section is not present in NEW PERBLE RANGE. Aim of
chlorine bleaching is to decolourise the natural colouring matter present in
the textile material to leave the fabric in more absorbent state than that
of grey. When the goods are passed from only NaClO 2 solution it is called
half bleach, which are usually to be sent for dyeing of darker shades.

After washing range the fabric passes from saturator and then to reaction
chamber of B range for NaClO 2 bleaching, where dwell time for bleaching
is given. This is basically done due to the formation of highly toxic chlorine
dioxide gas. It involves padding the fabric through the saturator
maintained at room temperature containing bleaching chemicals. And
then passing it onto the Reaction chamber where a hold is given
depending upon the type of fabric, so that the, proper swelling of fiber can
occur and thereby causing proper penetration of chemicals.

Sodium chlorite concentrations are given below

S.No FABRIC TYPE SODIUM CHLORITE (gpl)

.
1 100% Cotton B/W 20 to 22
2 100% Cotton (Shirting) 16
3 Polyester/Cotton 14

Washing
The fabric after passing through the pull out section of the reaction
chamber enters the four washers for effective washing. Temperature of
the washers is kept at 85 degree Celsius. The counter current flow of
water is used in all these washers so as to have a thorough washing of the
fabric.

After each washer there are nipping mangle, nip pressure of each washer
is kept to 2 ton. In order to avoid formation of creases the washers are
provided with an expander roll at their respective exits. After every
washer is a dancer roll so as to maintain the adequate tension in the
fabric. After four washers there is a Plaitor.

This arrangement is in OLD PERBLE not in NEW PERBLE. This Plaitor is

used only when there is no further processing like bleaching, for example
fabrics containing Lycra are not chlorite bleached, so these are plaited at
this very stage. For 100% cotton and P/C blends this Plaitor is by-passed.
The fabric then passes through the cold washer so as to lower the
temperature to room conditions before entering the chlorite saturator.

DRYING
There are three VDR’s to dry the fabric. Each of which consists of 10
drying cylinders, the last one consists of 7 drying cylinders and 3 cooling
cylinders, at the end, so as to cool the dried fabric before the Plaitor plaits
it on the trolley. The fabric after washing is passed through nip bowls
having a pressure of 5 tons. Then it passes through the first drying range.
The drying cylinders are steam heated. The main steam pipe is having a
pressure of 6 kg/cm2 and so far each drying range there is a pressure of 2
kg/cm2. Each drying cylinder is provided with two steam lines. One is for
heating the cylinders and other for removing exhaust steam. Cooling
cylinders are cooled with cold water.
Mercerization
Mercerization is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread mostly employed
to give cotton a lustrous appearance. Sodium hydroxide (caustic soda
240gppl) is the chemical used in Mercerization.

Purpose
 Improve dye affinity and yield.
 Improve breaking strength.
 Improve dimensional stability.
 Improve chemical reactivity.
 Improve fabric smoothness.
 Improve durability of fabric

MACHINEs
 No. of machines: 2
 Machine: sando iron mercerization range (JAPAN)

PROCESS
The fabric after the pre-treatment is sent for mercerization. The fabric is
first padded with caustic soda in caustic saturator 1 then the fabric goes
to the timing cylinder where some time is given to the fabric to react with
NaOH. Then the fabric is again padded with caustic soda in caustic
saturator 2. Then again fabric goes to the timing cylinder. After this the
fabric is stretched in the feed mangle. Then the fabric goes to the tenter
chain where the fabric is stretched weft wise to maintain its equal width in
the fabric. Then the fabric passes through 5 water showers where the
caustic soda is washed off. Then the fabric is washed in a series of 9
washers. Washer 8 gives a neutralization bath to the fabric and washer 9
gives a cold wash to the fabric. Then the fabric is dries in the vertical
drying range.
PROCESS FLOW OF MERCERIZATION

FABRIC IS FED
USING GUIDE
ROLLERS

CAUSTIC
SATURATOR 1

TIMING
CYLINDER

CAUSTIC
SATURATOR 2

TIMING
CYLINDER

FEED MANGLE

TENTER CHAIN

WATER
SHOWERS (5)

WASHER 1-
WASHER 7
(HOT WASH)

WASHER 8
(NEUTALIZATIO
N)

WASHER 9
(COLD WASH)

VERICAL
DRYING RANGE

Mechanical Finishes (seuding)

Seuding or emerizing finish is given with a cylinder covered with emery in
order to make a raised nap even surface and give lustre to the fabric.

The abrasion due to the emery rollers gives the fabric a smooth surface.

The fabric and the emery rollers move in opposite directions which causes
abrasion of the fabric surface.

MACHINES USED
No. of machines: 5

Machine 1- 4: xetema (Germany)

Machine 5: lafer with 24 drum rollers (Italy) (used for a more peached
surface)

Process flow of sueding

PASSIN
PASSIN
PADDIN G OVER
STITCHI G OVER
G WITH DRYING EMERY PLAITER
NG BRUSH
WATER ROLLER
ROLLER
S
ASSIGNMENT- 3
YARN DYEING
At VARDHMAN, Yarn dyeing is carried out. Mostly hank dyeing is done.

After soft packages of yarn are made the packages are loaded onto long
cylindrical rods which are mounted on the carrier. These rods have small
pores in it which allows movement of dyeing chemicals in and out during
dyeing process.

Yarn dyeing can also be done in beam form, i.e. instead of a cheese;
beams of yarns are loaded in the carrier and dyed. The beams of yarn
come from Mahavir spinning mills and are dyed as it is and sent back for
weaving process.

The cheeses have to be fixed firmly in the carrier so that the packages are
not loosed during dyeing which causes uneven dyeing.

After the dyeing process about 5 grams of yarn is sent for quality check, to
check whether the achieved shade is according to the customers demand
or not.

If not approved the dye recipe is corrected in the SPDM section (single
package dyeing machine) and the dyeing process for the bulk is again
carried out.

If approved then the cheeses are either dried in the rapid dryer or sent
further to RF dryer for drying.

The beams are dried on the rapid dryer. The whole carrier is fitted into the
dryer and the yarns are dried by means of heat.

BULKING:

Bulking is mainly done to give relaxation to the yarn, which can otherwise create
problem of shrinkage in home laundering.

 To attain shrinkage at yarn stage.

 To get even and better quality yarns.
  To improve running characteristics of material.

Bulking can be done by two methods

 Water bulking
 Steam bulking
Water Bulking: water bulking is done in a hank machine. The
temperature in the machine is maintained at 80°C. It takes about 10
minutes for bulking of yarns.
Steam Bulking: steam bulking uses autoclave for the bulking process. This process
involves homogenous moistening of materials which reduce electrostatic charge
which otherwise, influence evenness of yarn. This is done to get even and better
quality yarn. Also, to improve running characteristics of the material. Efficient
steaming enables to achieve homogenous moistening important for proper dye
ability.
Bulking of Reels inside the Autoclave

Manufacturer: STAFFI – R.B. Electronics

Machine Specifications:

Capacity 180 kg
Number of Trolleys in Machine 5
Quantity Load per Stick 2.25 to 3 kg
Limit of Vacuum Pressure 0.5 kg/cm²
Limit of Steam Pressure Not more than 0.8 kg
Limit of Temperature 98°C
HANK DYEING MACHINE- CABINET DYEING:

Number of Machines: 32 (3 are sample machines)

Manufacturers: Tung-Shing, Lorris Bellini, Tekst

It is suitable of processing natural fibers, synthetic and blends at temperature lower

than 100°C. Scouring, bleaching, dyeing and washing are processes done at boil, by
loading once. There is belt driven speed system to suit different kinds of yarn. The
industry has machines of 3 different manufacturers. They differ in their dyeing
capacity, water capacity, water consumption/lot, power consumption/lot, steam
consumption/lot, compressed air consumption/lot and number of sticks.
Machine Specifications:
Number of Carriers/Machine 2
Operating Steam Pressure 5 kg/cm²
Limit of Temperature 102°C

Dyed Reels in the Cabinet Dyeing Machine

Main parts of machine
a) Kier
b) Sampling devices
c) Loader
d) Additional tank
e) Cooling water outlet
f) Steam trap
g) Additional tank drain
h) Feed pump
i) Additional flow control
j) Impeller
k) Water drain
l) Pulley
m) Water supply
n) Cooling water inlet direct heating
HYDRO EXTRACTOR:
Manufacturer: Minnetti Italia (Officine)
Number of Machines: 6
It is used to remove excess water from hank after dyeing. It works on the principle of
centrifugal force. The time required to hydrate the cotton material is more than the
acrylic as cotton has more moisture regain than acrylic. If cotton is not properly dried
then it may create problems during cone winding.

Hydro Extractor

Machine Specifications:

Capacity 5 machines have 30 kg capacity and 1

machine has 45 kg capacity
RPM of Motor 1450
Cage Drum 690-700 rpm
Quantity Loaded per Batch 30 kg for Acrylic
Cycle Time of One Batch 8 minutes for Acrylic
Standard Productivity 1350 kg/hand

DRYER:
Manufacturer: Minnetti Italia (Officine)

Number of Machines: 2 (1 old and 1 new)

Hank dryer is used to completely dry the hanks of yarns after dyeing and hydro
extraction.

Machine Specifications:

Features Old Dryer New Dryer

Number of Hangers 180 210
Temperature 95-105˚C 95-105˚C
Capacity 1 kg 2.75 g

PRINTING MACHINE:

Manufacturer: 5WA (Italy)

Number of Machines: 1

Number of Colour Tanks: 4

This is a new addition to the VARDHMAN dye house for creating yarns with multiple
colours. In this printing machine, roller printing machine is used to carry out localized
dyeing, for giving fancy effect.
In this machine, 48 cones are printed at a time. There are mainly 3 rollers:

 Furnishing Roller: always remains dipped in color and transfers color to the
other roller.
 Engraved Roller: Transfers color to the yarn band and doctor blade here,
removes extra color.
 Pressure Roller: provides pressure to the yarn band. Yarns are dried and
hanks are formed.
Printing Machine; Output of one of the Rollers which
is then forwarded for heat setting of colour
DRESSING:
Dressing is the main part in the yarn hank processing because in bulking, dyeing,
dyeing etc. the yarns in the hanks are entangled and they create problems during
hank to cone winding. Thus, it is very necessary to dress the hanks after drying as it
makes hank to cone winding operation easier.
 DYEING
Dressing is done by one of the workers in Hank to Cone section
PROCEDURES
There were various dyeing processes going on during our internship period which we
covered. They are explained below:

Process of 100% Acrylic Violet Shade

Take 85˚C warm water & water bulking for 10

minutes

Overflow it at 50˚C

Add I.G. Surf, Acetic Acid, Retarder, Softener

Run it for 20 minutes

Add half colour and dozing it for 10 minutes

Run it for 10 minutes

Raise the temperature at 60˚C at 1˚C/minute

add the other half colour and dozing it for 10 minutes

Run it for 10 minutes

Raise the temperature at 80˚C at 11

C/minute

Run it for 10 minutes

Raise the temperature at 90˚C at 0.5˚C/minute

Run it for 10 minutes

Raise the temperature at 99˚C at 0.3˚C/minute

Run it for 10 minutes

Hold the material and overflow it

Drain the material

Process of Acrylic/Nylon Violet Shades
 Take 45˚C warm water for the material

Add IG Surf, Acetic Acid and run for 10 minutes

Add half colour and dozing it for 10 minutes

Run it for 10 minutes

Then add next half colour and dozing it for 10 minutes

Run it for 10 minutes

Raise the temperature at 99˚C at 1˚C/minute

Hold the material as required

Overflow at 40˚C

Then add 1% wacker finish & 0.5% Formic Acid

Run it for 10 minutes

Raise the temperature at 90˚C at 0.5˚C/minute

Run it for 10 minutes

Drain the material

 Process of 100% Polyester Dyeing

Take 45˚C warm water for the material

Add IG Surf, Acetic Acid and run for 10 minutes

Add half colour and dozing it for 10 minutes

Run it for 10 minutes

Then add next half colour and dozing it for 10 minutes

Entry of Dyed
Material in
Run it for Hank to
10 minutes
Cone Section
Raise the temperature at 99˚C at 1˚C/minute

Dressing
Hold the material as required

Overflow at 40˚C
Loaded on Winding
Machines
Then add 1% wacker finish & 0.5% Formic Acid

Run it for 10 minutes

Run it for 10 minutes
Hank to Cone
Winding
Raise the temperature at 90˚C at 0.5˚C/minute

Run it for 10 minutes

Cones are placed
in a trolley
Drain the material

Checking of Cones

Packing
 PROCESS FLOW OF HANK TO CONE WINDING

Different types of machine knitting, hand knitting and specialized yarns are
processed on hank to cone winding machines for further processing or to be
delivered to the market. The machines used are:

PS Mettler

Number of Machines: 9

In this machine, paper cone is attached to the adaptor, one side of which is
attached to the spring to hold cone. It is then brought in contact with the revolving
drum.

Machine Specifications:

Number of Drums on Each Machine 36 (7 machines), 40 (2 machines)

Drum rpm 300
Weight of Cone 1 kg

SSM

Number of Machines: 3

Number of Drums in Each Machine 24

Drum rpm 400
Weight of Cone 2kg

FADIS

Number of Machines: 10

Number of Drums in Each Machine 35

Drum rpm 350
Weight of Cone 2.25 g
REELING:

This process leads to the formation of lea (lachhi) from cone and then sent for
packing in lea form.

Name: METRO – Automatic Reeling Machine & Hydraulic Bundle Press

Number of leas formed in each cycle: 44

Weight of each lea: 150 gm

Time Taken for 44 leas: 10 minutes

RAISING:

Raising is a process of lifting a layer of fibres from the surface of the fabric so as
to form a hairy surface on pile. The process imparts a warm and soft handle. It is
the process of raising the fibres from the surface of the yarn according to
customer’s demand. It gives finishing to the yarn that results in:

 Bulkiness
 Increase in luster
 Improved quality
 Attractive look
 Soft handle

PACKING:

Packing in VARDHMAN is done in four forms depending upon the customer’s

demand:

 Ball
  Lea
 Bundle
 Cone

Ball: yarn balls are either packed with weight 25 gm or 50 gm. packing can be in jar
or box. Each jar/box may contain 4, 6 or 10 balls

Lea: each lea weighs 50 gm and given a tag. 2 leas of 100 gm are packed in a small
packet. 20 such small packets make one big packet. 0ne carton contains 16 big
packets.

Bundle: this packing has leas of 200 gm and given a tag. 3 kg of such leas make
one bundle. 5 bundles are packed in one packet.

Cone packing: Cones free from faults are with polythene sheets. 2 layers of cones
are packed containing 9 cones in each layer. Bag is stitched and carton of 40 kg is
prepared.

Balls are being made in the Automatic Ball Machine; Lea Packing
Manual Ball making and packing

Bundle Packing
AURO DYEING
Auro dyeing is a part of Auro textiles. In Auro dyeing mainly fibres are
dyed. Fibre is dyed to make melange fabrics and yarns are dyed for yarn
dyed fabrics. Yarns for yarn dyed fabrics made in Mahavir spinning mills
are dyed in Auro dyeing.

Auro dyeing dyes a variety of materials like 100% cotton, 100% polyester,
100% viscose and blends like polyester cotton, polyester-viscose, wool
blends acrylic blends.

The daily production capacity of Auro dyeing is 28 tonnes per day

 Fibre dyeing: 13 tons per day

 Yarn dyeing: 15 tons per day

The production department of Auro dyeing has the following sections;

 Yarn dyeing unit 1

 Yarn dyeing unit 2
 Pre winding section 1 and 2
 Post winding section
 Conditioning room
 Color store
 Chemical store
 R & D department
 Spdm and lab dip section
 Technorama room
 Quality check section

Fibre DYEING
Machines
 Machine: hisaka f/d1
It has three tanks, 1 main tank, 1 additional tank and 1 dissolving
tank which has heating coils in it.
 No. of machines: 3
PROCESS
The fibre is received by Auro dyeing in form of bales. The fibres are
cleaned and free from impurities. The bales are opened and the fibres are
fed into the carrier with help of feed lattice panel.

After loading the fibres are pressed into the carrier using pressure and
weight.

Dye is prepared in the dyeing machine in the dissolving tank using the
dye recipe already approved by the R & D department. The temperature
of the dye is maintained with help of heating coils in the dissolving tank.

After the fibre is dyed about 5 grams of dyed sample is sent for quality
checking, if the shade achieved is correct then rest of the processing is
carried on. If not some corrections are made in the dye recipe and the
fibres are dyed again.

After dyeing the water from the fibres is extracted using a hydro extractor
and a cake is formed. The carrier is then emptied and the cake is placed
on the cake stand.

After this the rest of the processing is done. First the cake of fibres is
broken in a cake breaker, i.e. the fibres are separated.

Then the fibres pass through a series of tanks where washing is done so
that the extra dye is stripped off. The first tank contains soap solution. In
the second tank a hot wash is given. In the next tank a cold wash is given
to bring the fibres to room temperature. In the last tank softening of the
fibres is done.

After that the fibres are forwarded to the hopper 2 where the fibres are
slightly dried before hydro extraction.

Then water is extracted using hydro extractor. Then again fibres are sent
to hopper 3 where the fibres are separated from each other. Then tumble
dry is done.

After tumble drying sorting of fibres is done, i.e. any fibres of different
shade are taken out.

Then the fibres are pressed and packed in a bale form. The bale contains
information like bale number, lot number, shade, size, weight etc.

END use
The dyed fibres are used to create melange fabrics. They are sent to
arihant spinning mills Ludhiana which is a part of Vardhman.
PROCESS FLOW OF FIBRE DYEING

LOADING
LOADING AND
AND PRESSING
PRESSING

PREP
PREPARA
ARATION
TION OF
OF D
DYE
YE IN
IN
THE
THE T
TANK
ANK

DYEING
DYEING

QUALITY
QUALITY CHECK
CHECK

IF OK, HYDRO
IF OK, HYDRO
EXTRACTION
EXTRACTION

EMPTYING
EMPTYING OF
OF CARRIER
CARRIER

CAKE
CAKE FORMED
FORMED

CAKE
CAKE BREAKER
BREAKER

W ASHING
WASHING
RANGE(
RANGE( SOAPING,
SOAPING, HOT
HOT
W
WASH, COLD W
ASH, COLD WASH,
ASH,
SOFTNER)
SOFTNER)

HOPPER
HOPPER 2
2

HYDRO
HYDRO EXTRACTOR
EXTRACTOR

HOPPER
HOPPER 3
3

TUMBLE
TUMBLE DR
DRYER
YER

SOR
SORTING
TING

P
PACKING(BALE
ACKING(BALE FORM)
FORM)
Colour store
The colour store has all the dyes used in the dyeing of fibres and yarns.
The dye recipe is prepared in the colour store for bulk dyeing. When an
order is placed the R & D department prepares a colour recipe according
to the colours available in the colour store. After the recipe is tested it is
converted for bulk dyeing. The recipe is given to the colour store where it
is prepared and given to the dyeing section.

SOME DYE Companies

 Jakazol
 Hunstman
 Dystar
 Atul ltd.

Chemical store
For preparing the dye recipe and washing procedures chemicals are
required which are kept in the chemical store and supplied from there. The
chemicals store contains wetting agents, softeners, chelating agents etc.

Spdm and LAB dip section

SPDM section is the single package dyeing section in which 1 kg packages
are dyed. Spdm machines are used when there less order for a particular
colour. They are also used when the shade of a bulk dyed lot does not
match the given standard so a single package is taken form that lot and
redyed and a correct re dying recipe is prepared and then the same recipe
is used for bulk dying that lot.

OBBDM Section
OBBDM is the open box beaker dying machine. When an order is placed 3
samples of a shade are prepared in OBBDM machines and given to the
customer. If the customer approves one of the sample and then the order
proceeds.

QUALITY ASSURANCE
The quality assurance department checks the quality of the incoming as
well the outgoing material. The quality control department checks the
greige yarn, its strength, dye affinity, colour uptake. They check that the
shade of the dyed products match the standard provided by the customer.
They check the colour fastness of the dye and perform various tests on
the material going to the customer so that there are no complaints
regarding the quality of the product.

ASSIGNMENT- 4
 MATERIAL DEPARTMENT

The main function of the material department is to procure the raw material in the
form of bales for the spinning process, packing material, electrical material, electrical
material, machine spare parts, oil and lubricants, fuel and building material,
furniture and fixtures and administration equipments. It helps in providing the various
request made by all the departments in an effective and efficient way so that there is
no wastage of time.

This department ensures that the unit never falls short of raw material wherever
required. The process flow is as follows:

 The corporate office at Ludhiana receives orders from various buyers for yarn
of specific count and yarn
 The office then allots the units with the function of production needed to be
carried out e.g. if the buyers demand acrylic yarn, the office will provide unit1 with
the amount of yarn count to be produced.
 The units then submit their yearly requirement of cotton or other raw material.
Their estimate of requirement is calculated with the ERP system. The ERP system is
fed with all the details like: production per shift and material requirement according to
the count demanded.
 The office then deals with cotton sourcing stations i.e. various states in India
and procures cotton from there.
 This detail is intimated to the material department at the spinning unit. The
detail includes the number of trucks/ total quantity (in terms of net weight) to be
coming to supply the materials.
 Once the details are received, the material department looks after the
receiving, checking, paying for and storing of the bales.
 WHILE RECEIVING THE MATERIAL:

The following things are needed to be checked while receiving the materials from
trucks.

 Whether the material is designated to be supplied to the particular company

or not because here are two spinning companies of the same Vardhman group,
requiring raw material cotton.
 Net weight of the bales is cross checked with that mentioned on the slip
carried by the invoice given to the driver. The weight is calculated by weighing the
truck at the time it comes (with the material) and after unloading the trucks.
 Quality of the bales – if the bales are darkened in colour and dirty, the defect
is brought into notice of the corporate office. Since the material is insured, the office
itself decides to pay the charges before or after claiming the insurance.

Various places from which bales are procured:

 Punjab
 Gujarat
 Madhya Pradesh
 Rajasthan
 Karnataka
 Andhra Pradesh
Various qualities of cotton procured are:

 Indian cotton : Shankar 6, J-34

Varieties Cost (Rs. / kg)

Shankar 6 52-54

J-34 46
The procurement is done once or twice in a year. But can also be done whenever
required. The season begins from October/November and ends in February/march.

 After checking all the above mentioned details, the material is sent to be
stored in the godown.
 In the godown, the bales are stored in form of stacks.
 Stickers are put on the bales which are used to identify the number of bales
stored.
 Bales face is always kept on the outer side for identifying the stickers.
 The no. of the bales stored into the stack and the information is entered into
the ERP system.
 The details which are fed are the quality of the bales i.e. the variety, number
of bales of each kind station from which they are received.
 The bales are pressed bales which have no chance of getting fire.
 It is always taken care of that the godowns never fall short of material stored.
 DISPATCH

 The production department submits the requirement of the raw material to the
material department. The variety of cotton and the number of bales is specified.
 The godown then issues the cotton bales to the production unit and the
corresponding issue slip is filled.
 On an average the production unit requires 300 bales/day.
 The issue system is FIFO (first in first out) i.e. the bales which are arriving first
are issued first. The pressed bales can be kept in the godown for long time also as
they are not affected by fire or water.
 MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT

The main objective of maintenance department is to eliminate the breakdowns,

maximum utilization of machines operating time, incorporations of new technologies
and engineering development in the basic design of the machines, augmentation of
machine capabilities and optimum expenditures on maintenance function and
activities. This aspect of maintenance function helps in reducing or completely
prevents maintenance efforts during lifetime of the equipment.

It involves various maintenance activity that are to be recorded a year head which
helps in planning of manpower, material and service which are required for the
period. This system helps in analysis of maintenance work measurement, machine
replacement, nature of breakdown and downtimes etc.

There is a review committee comprising of spinning superintendent, maintenance in

charge and his assistants. This committee holds its meeting regularly and reviews
the maintenance performance in the following areas:-

 Analysis of breakdowns.
 Ratio of downtimes too available operating time.
 Ratio of other maintenance hold ups to available operating tome.
 Review of maintenance costs.
 Review of major replacement.
 Review of maintenance function and performance.
 Review of training program.
 Review of work done by the maintenance personnel.
 ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT
The objective of the engineering department is to provide uninterrupted good quality
power supply, oil and water free compressed air, healthy and well-maintained
humidified air to the production plant thereby adding value in producing good quality
yarn. It also helps in catering to the needs of colony residents, club and
administration by maintaining safe electricity and water distribution, sewage
treatment plants etc.

INDUSTRIAL RELATIONS DEPARTMENT

The procedure underlines the system and methods relation to the functional
responsibilities of industrial relations department, i.e. manpower planning,
recruitment, time office function, training and development, grievance handling,
welfare and colony administration etc. The system has been designed to provide
better services to the human resource and helping them achieving the quality
standards as required under ISO 9002.

The endeavour of IR department is to promote harmony and industrial pace, fair

shop floor practices and promote good relations with local external agencies.
 TRAINING DEPARTMENT

Training and development has been regarded as an important tool for the
improvement of skills level, work habits, development of positive attitude of the
worker and upgrading the system. Training and development serves as an important
means for preparing workers for modified performance standards, improvement of
quality of product and reducing absenteeism, accidents and material wastage.

Since training is a continuous and time consuming process and entails much
expenditure thus while designing and implementing training program, due
consideration is given to the organization and workers needs. The activities relating
to workers training are organized in workers training and development centres i.e.
Manav Vikas Kendra (MVK), which is within the premises of Vardhman Spinning and
General Mills Ltd. To achieve these objectives more emphasis and importance has
been given to impart a systematic attitudinal and function training to the workers.

Once a positive work culture and attitude is developed the workers shall they be
interested in improving their skills and knowledge. The main focus is on workers
learning and not on teaching them.
 COSTING DEPARTMENT
The marketing department forecasts the quantity of yarn which they can sell and the
production department reports the amount of yarn which the unit can produce. The
costing department then makes the annual and monthly budgets. The budget
includes the following factors:

 Labour wages
 Raw material
 Packing material
 Electricity
 Transport (raw material and dispatch)
 Maintenance cost incurred during production run.
The budget and the production plan are installed in the ERP system which is
transparent. The users can see the activity schedule of the production planning
through various codes specified. The ERP system is also fed by the daily production
details of the units.

The costing department checks the production details through the ERP system
production delays can cause high costs to the company.

The department is given the inputs regarding the count of the yarn to be made, the
total amount of time of dispatch. The department ensures that no ring frame remains
idle or in non working condition during any of the shifts.

The department checks the report for any kind of detentions (detention report) or
stoppages during production. By checking the detention reports the department
comes to know the reason and timing of the machine stoppage. The machine
stoppage has direct effect on the production of the unit. Some serious causes
requiring maintenance department look after are brought into notice and checked.
For any production order running the following is the estimated cost break up in the
percentage.

RAW MATERIAL 50 – 55 %

POWER COST 12 – 15 %

These two factors account for the major cost incurred. The department also looks
into the profitability factor. After receiving the order, allotted by the corporate office,
the department decides the time required for the completion. This time is calculated,
as specified earlier, through the machine productivity data available in the ERP
system. The daily production details are checked and thus the order is kept under
track.

It is also to note that the cost of storing the finished good i.e. yarn is incurred. Thus
the dispatch is done within a time of 10-12 days otherwise the working capital gets
blocked.
 LEARNING OUTCOME

The learning at Vardhman Spinning and General Mills was indeed a unique one with
a lot to understand and take with us. The major learning outcomes at VSGM were
based on the following points:

 Understanding of the different departments working at the factory

 Necessary processes to be carried out before final delivery
 Inevitable constraints for any process
 Understanding of spinning, problems and their solutions
 Understanding the importance of workforce and results of absenteeism on
production
 Understanding the machine effectiveness and addressing their maintenance
issues
 The process flow of Production Department and the steps involved
 The above areas of understanding made us more aware of the spinning
operations, weaving operations and finishing operations.
 The learning experience was also a helping tool in making us aware of our role
as garment and textile experts