TRAINING Report For College

INDUSTRIAL TRAINING
REPORT
AT
AURO TEXTILES
(BADDI , HIMACHAL PRADESH)
Submitted By: Manas Ranjan

Mohapatra
Dr. BR Ambedkar NIT Jalandhar
Roll no. 14110039
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
I am extremely grateful to management of Vardhman group for giving

me an opportunity to persue my summer training at their esteemed
organization, AURO TEXTILES, baddi , himachal Pradesh.
With great pleasure and sense of gratitude I can express my sincere
thanks to the management of AURO TEXTILE, BADDI, for giving me
an opportunity to do my summer training in their concern and for the
facilities provided to me during my training. I owe my thanks to & the
HOD’s of all departments for their support and encouragement.
I sincerely thank Mr. S.K.ojha (G.M), Mr. Tarun Arora (HR head) and
the faculty members of the department for their valuable guidance,
suggestion & encouragement. I am also thankful to my project guide
Mr. R Mukherjee (HOD Preparatory and finishing) for enlightening me
with their valuable knowledge and sparing some time out of packed
busy schedule to guide me through the odds in my project.
Thanks,
Manas Ranjan Mohapatra
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VARDHMAN- A PROFILE
BRIEF HISTORY:
The industrial city of Ludhiana situated in the fertile Malwa regions of Central Punjab is
popularly known as “ Manchester of India “. Within this city is located the head quarters of
Vardhman Industries. Born in 1965 under LalaRatan Chand Oswal, Vardhman Industries has
grown into one of the largest textile houses in India.
Today Vardhman threads are the second largest producer of textile threads in India.
In 1990 Vardhman diversified into weaving business. The grey weaving unit at Baddi has
already made a mark as a quality producer of Grey Poplin suiting and shirting in the domestic
as well as foreign market. This was followed by the entry into fabric processing with the
setting up of Auro Textiles unit in Baddi, which currently produces almost 1-lakh meters of
fabric daily.
In the year 1999 the Group has added another feather into its cap with setting up of
Vardhman acrylic, Bharuch Gujrat that is a joint venture in acrylic fiber production with
Marubeni and Exlan of Japan. Adherence to systems and a true dedication to quality have
resulted in obtaining the coveted ISO 9002/ ISO 14002 quality award, which is the first in the
textile industry and yet another laurel to its credit.
Building upon its strength in yarn manufacturing, Vardhman embarked upon a course
of natural progression and entered the processed fabric business. Vardhman has a state –of-
the-art fabric process house with a production of 30 million meters per annum. This was set
up in the year 2000 with a technical collaboration of Tokai Senko, Japan. The machinery
largely is imported from Japan, Europe and U.S.A. Vardhman is integrated backwards with
256 Hi-Tech air Jet and Rapier looms manufacturing 30 million meters of fabric per annum.
Today Vardhman is one of the largest fully integrated fabric suppliers in the country. A
highly professional group of experienced personnel backs this up in order to ensure right
product and quality.
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VARDHMAN GROUP
Today the following industries are related to Vardhman group
 Vardhman Spinning & General Mills Ltd. (Ludhiana)

 Vardhman Spinning & General Mills Ltd. (Unit I)
 Vardhman Spinning & General Mills Ltd. (Unit II)
 Auro Spinning Mills, Baddi (Himachal Pradesh)
 Auro Weaving Mills, Baddi (Himachal Pradesh)
 Auro Dyeing Mills, Baddi (Himachal Pradesh)
 Vardhman Spinning & General Mills (EOU), Baddi (Himachal Pradesh)
 Auro Textile Mills, Baddi (Himachal Pradesh)
 Mahavir Spinning Mills Ltd. (Hoshiarpur Unit I)
 Mahavir Spinning Mills Ltd. (Ludhiana Unit II)
 Anant Spinning Mills (MalerKotla)
 Anant Spinning Mills, Mandideep (Bhopal)
 Vardhman Special Steels (Ludhiana)
 Auro Mercerize Yarn Unit (Hoshirpur)
 VardhmanPolytex Ltd. (Bathinda)
 Arisht Spinning Mills, Baddi (Himachal Pradesh)
 Vardhman Threads Ltd. Baddi, (Himachal Pradesh)
 Vardhman Acrylic Ltd. Bharuch. (Gujarat)
 V.M.T. Spinning Mills, Baddi (Himachal Pradesh)
SALIENT FEATURE OF GROUP CULTURE
 Discipline
 System driven management
 Emphasis on training
 Focus on customer and quality
 Safety of employees
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 Constant efforts of improvement
 Merit is honered
 Delegation of authority
 Cost of consciousness
GROUP ACHIEVEMENT
 Largest spinning capacity in the country
 First Indian Textile company to get ISO 9002
 Largest manufacture exporter of cotton yarn from country with exports of 292 crores
in 1996-1997
 Export to high quality conscious markets like Japan, Italy, Germany, U>K etc
 Winner of outstanding export award for five successive years
 Largest consumer of acrylic fibre in India.
 No. 2 sewing thresd manufacture in India after coats Viyella.
AURO TEXTILES–AT A GLANCE
VARDHMAN Groups has stepped into the textile industry with the set up of AURO
Textiles at Baddi (H.P). Chief Minister of Himachal Pradesh, Mr. Prem Kumar Dhumal
inaugurated it and its production started in December 2000.
The whole plant covers an area of 12 acres of land. Since Textile field is new to this group
so they had their technical collaboration with the renowned group of Japan “TOKAI
SENKO” all the machinery installed in plant was imported from Japan, Italy & Germany. At
present the plant has the capacity to produce 30 lacs Meter/ Month of fabric.
All the machinery installed in the plant has been imported from Italy, Japan and Germany.
At present this plant is one of the largest fabric processing unit in the whole Asia.
The plant is self-sufficient in prospect of the following: -
1. Power Supply as it has its own Power Generation Plant.
2. Boiler for steam and,
3. Effluent Treatment Plant for the water used in the processing of fabric.
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The plant not only uses the above utilities (1&2) for its own consumption but also supply to
its sister concerns also as: -
 Power
 Auro Weaving Mills
 100% Export Oriented Unit
 Auro Spinning mills

 Steam
 Auro dyeing
 VSGM 100 % Export oriented unit
 Auro Weaving mills
The target of company is to make the presence in the way in global market. In other words
the product will be such that it will compete with the top brands presently available in the
world market.
Auro Textiles has four major departments
 Personnel & IR Department.
 Commercial Department.
 Engineering Department.
 Production Department.
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CONTENTS
 GREIGH SECTION
 PREPARATORY SECTION
 PERBLERANGE
 NEW PAD STEAMER
 MERCERIZER
 PTR
 DYEING SECTION
 TANK COLOUR PREPARATION AREA
 PAD DRY
 THERMOFIX
 PAD STEAMER
 FINISHING SECTION
 STENTER
 SUEDING MACHINE
 SANFOIZER
 AIRO MACHINE
 CURING MACHINE
 TECHNICAL SECTION
 PHYSICAL LAB
 CHEMICAL LAB
 PILOT PLANT
 INSPECTION AND FOLDING SECTION
 PRODUCTION PLANNING & CONTROL
 EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT
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GREIGE SECTION
The main aims of greighsection are:

 To provide the fabric for further requirement for processing
 To stitch the fabric from one end to other thus making it continuous
 To stitch the fabric in open width form as most of the fabric come over here in
bale roll form and bale form which is converted to open width form for continuous
process
RAW MATERIAL:
AURO WEAVING MILL is the main supplier of the grey fabric. About 85% of grey
fabric comes from there.But in certain cases it is also purchased from other sources like :
 HINDUSTAN SPINNING MILLS(MUMBAI)
 HINDUSTAN SEALS(HYDRABAD)
 BHASKAR INDUSTRIES LTD.(MANDI)
Grey cloth is brought down into this section either in rolls or in bales or in palet form.
Firstly the grey cloth is send to technical department where the physical and chemical
testing of grey cloth takes place. After testing of cloth, all the reason is written in the
dispo sheet by technical department and a copy of all is send to all the concerned
departments and now it is ready for grey checking which is examined on grey checking
machine..
The machine is used to examine the following things:
 OIL STAINS
 HOLES IN FABRIC
 PAINT MARKS
 FUNGUS
 BLACK INK STAINS
 RUST STAINS
 WIDTH VARIATION
 YARN SHOOT STAINS
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 YARN CONTAMINATION
The fabric which comes over here are opened in U shaped or L shaped trolleys. The fabric in
roll form is opened in U shaped trolleys while the fabric which is in bale form is opened in L
shaped trolleys.
Most of the fabrics coming over here for processing are of the types
 100% COTTON YARN FABRIC
 P/C (POLYESTER/COTTON)
 COTTON / LYCRA
 COTTON/LINEN
 ORGANIC COTTON
Dispo sheet has all the information about the fabric. It mainly consists 4 codes: K1, K2, K3,
K4.
 K1 indicates SORT NUMBER.
 K2 indicates PROCESS CODES(LIKE CTSF)
 K3 indicates COLOR CODE
 K4 indicates YARN DYED.
STITCHING DEPARTMENT:
As the name suggests this department basically deals with stitching of fabric in from bales
to continuous form so that continuous fabric for long lengths can be formed. One
important thing in stitching is that we always stitch fabric from selvedge to selvedge and
stitches in between the fabric. In the end of stitch we placed one small piece of cotton
cloth called a flap to increase the strength of the stitching so that constant lateral pressure
exerted by the machine at various processes may not tear off the fabric.
The most important thing is that before stitching, fabric is torn from ends to make it
uniform for stitching and any problem could not occur in further processing.
Types of stitching machine
There are two types of stitching machine depending upon the type of the fabric.
 PICKASE M/C: - 2 Thread (Japan) (for normal finished material)
 JUKI M/C: - 5 Thread (Japan) (those material which are going to be peached)
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Type of sewing thred:
There are two types of thread is used for stitching. Both type are 3PLY thread.
 For Shirting :3/30
 For Bottom :3/16
Stitching faults:
 Face back faults
 Quality mix
 Dopping
 Width variation
 Holes
IN PREPARATORY SECTION FOLLOWING MACHINES ARE USED:
Sr. No. MACHINE NO. OF MACHINES MAKE

Sando Iron Works,
1 PERBLERANGE ONE
Wakayama, JAPAN
Sando Iron Works,
NEW PAD STEAMER ONE
2. Wakayama, JAPAN
Sando Iron Works,
MERCERIZER TWO
3. Wakayama, JAPAN
4. PTR ONE Sando Iron Works,

Wakayama, JAPAN
1.PERBLE RANGE
This machine is used for function of singeing, desizing, scouring and bleaching. This
machine is most complicated machine in a house and the biggest machine.
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No. of machine: 1
 New Perble Machine.
Maker: Sando Iron Works, Japan.
Section:
machines have different sections.
New Perble has following three sections:

Section A: Singeing, Combined desizing and scouring.
Section B: Peroxide bleaching
Section C: Vertical Drying Range.
SECTION – A
SINGEING
 INTRODUCTION:
Singeing is the process carried out for burning the loose hairy fiber projecting from
surface of the cloth thus giving a smooth appearance otherwise they gives lots of
difficulties in further processing. Singeing is done so that the fabric attains a smoother
handle and in order to cut off the unevenness in shade which might occur due to
protruding fibers. If these fibers are not removed, the cloth will have matted and raw
appearance after finishing. The material passes rapidly over a row of gas burners, which
remove projecting hairs.
There are two singeing machines of this type, one are attached before perble range, while
the other one is attached before the pad steamer for carrying our pretreatments in case of
yarn dyed fabrics of 100% cotton, organic cotton and cotton lycra blend. The goods must
be singed properly otherwise dulling of pattern and development of “hairy edges” takes
place.
The speed of cloth should be sufficient that cloth would not catch fire during it
passage from the flame. Speed of the fabric is changed according to the quality of fabric.
The goods are then passed through a trough of water (quenching bath).
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S.No. FABRIC QUALITY SPEED (m/min)
1 Bottom weight 60 – 70
2. Top weight (Shirting) 90 – 100
3 For 2 ply 50-70
4 Yarn dyed 120
MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS OF SINGEING
 Name: osthoff singe

 Gas Used: Propane & air mixture (85:15)
 Angle of gas burners: 90° & 45°
 Height of flame: 8-10 cms.
 Temp. Of flame: 1800 0C
 No. Of cooling cylinders: 5
 Gas pressure: 14 mili bar
 No. Of brushing rollers: 2
 Nipping pressure at quenching mangle: 2 ton
 Air pressure set on cloth guiders is :0. 2 kg/cm.sq.
SAILIENT FEATURES OF SINGEING MACHINE
It is one of the most advanced technology based machine. This machine is made by
“GERMANY”
Following are the parts of singeing machine:
 FLAP PREVENTION UNIT: The main function of this unit is to remove the crease.
 CLOTH GUIDER: The main function of cloth guider is to guide the fabric further
with proper tension and free of creases
 STEAM CYLINDER: The grey fabric contains a little moisture and it is likely to
scorch if it is not dried before singeing The main function of steam cylinder is to pre-
heat the fabric.
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 BRUSHING UNIT: There are two brushes rotating opposite in direction of fabric
.The main function of brushing unit is to remove the loose fiber and fluff.
 GAS BURNER: There is one gas burner for singeing the fabric, its flame can be
adjusted according to the reqirement
 HOT AIR OUT LET: The main function of this unit is to remove the hot air.
 RUBBER SLIT ROLLER: This is used for cooling the surface of the fabric so that
they do not develop lustre after singeing. Advantages of this are:
 due to this fabric handle & appearance are not reduced.
 Singeing can be carried out at the places, along the full width of fabric,
free from cloth flapping.
 Singing without any fear of flame passing through a fabric
 VACUUM SUCTION: The main function of this is to suck the loose fiber adhering
to the surface of the fabric.
 EXPANDER ROLLERS: They are provided on the singeing machine to remove

crease from the fabric.
 DANCER ROLLER: This is used to maintain the required tension in the fabric. The
dancer actually works by maintaining the required tension between the motors i.e.
between the driver motor and the mangle motor.
WASHING SECTION:
As the fabric comes out from the singeing section, it is simultaneously subjected to a
series of hot washes. There are five hot washers in new perble. These hot washes are very
essential before Desizing and scouring because poly vinyl alcohol is the major component
of size and is soluble in hot water. Thus the prime aim of these washers is to remove the
water-soluble sizes from the fabric.
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The most important feature of this washing range is that, water
used is in counter current direction, driven by counter current motors thereby
resulting in the effective washing. The temperature maintained in theses washers is
90-95 degree Celsius.
After passing the fabric through these hot washers, the fabric is passed through
nip bowls, having a mangle pressure of 5 tons. This high pressure is necessary so as to
squeeze, maximum amount of water from the fabric.
Table depicting the various parameters about the washing range of section – A
S.No. Washing Tank Temperature Pressure at mangle Dancer Roller
No. Pressure
1. 1st 95°C 2 tonn 20-50kgf
nd
2. 2 95°C 2 tonn 20-50kgf
rd
3. 3 95°C 2 tonn 20-50kgf
4. 4th 95°C 2 tonn 20-50kgf
5. 5th 95°C 2 tonn 20-50kgf
In new perble, there are five washers and sixth is saturator bath.
PARTS OF WASHING SECTION AND THEIR MAJOR FUNCTIONS:
Washing range consists of following parts :
 WASHERS: There are five washers in new perble range of Section A. All washers
are at high temperature of 90-95°C, and uses water from CRP.
 EXPANDER ROLLS: These are used to remove creases from the surface of the
fabric. The removal of crease depends upon the shape of expander roller, more its
bow like; greater will be its tendency for the removal of creases.
 SPRINKLERS: They are basically shower of hot water, which act along the whole
width of the fabric, so that fabric gets thorough washing.
.
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 NIP MANGLE: The main function of nip mangle is to squeeze the fabric to a greater
extent. It is an arrangement of pair of roller in which upper roller is rubber covered
and lower roller is made up of steel. The fabric is made to pass through it and pressure
is applied so as to remove solublised starch from the fabric. The type of squeezing
depends upon the Mangle pressure applied, thus in case where mangle pressure is
more squeezing, action will be greater and thus more thorough removal. And where
mangle pressure is less squeezing action would be comparatively lesser.
 COMPENSATOR:These are provided from the top of the washers for controlling
the fabric speed and tension, whenever the machine stopped. They are pneumatically
controlled.
After each washer, a nip roller and an expander roller is provided, so that fabric
becomes free of creases whenever it passes from one washer to another and also for
the complete removal of impurities.
DESIZING AND SCOURING
 SIZING: The warp thread of the fabric is sized during the weaving to increase its
strength and to reduce the breakage.The sizes are mainly applied in loom state so that
the fabric should possess sufficient strength to with stand the stresses and strains
during the weaving.Size consists of starch, wax ,gum, fatty compounds and tallow etc.
 NEED OF DESIZING: All the size ingredients remain on the warp yarns even after
the weaving of the cloth. So it is necessary to desize the cloth, as the starch and tallow
are hydrophobic in nature that will hinder the dyeing and finishing processes
subsequently. The size ingredients have to be removed for obtaining uniform reaction
of chemicals during bleaching operations.
 DESIZING: The purpose of desizing is to remove size paste used in sizing by

converting them to water soluble product. In desizing starch is degraded more or less
to soluble products. Degradation of starch can be brought about by water, acid
oxidizing agents and enzymes.
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 SCOURING: Even after desizing the fabric’s absorbency is still the main problem as
it contains fats and waxes (both added and natural). The main purpose of scouring is
to remove natural as well as added impurities essentially of water repellent character
as possible and make the fabric highly absorbent without damaging. In the Auro
Textile desizing and scouring processes are conducted simultaneously at the same
time in one operation.
The main processes that occur during scouring are as follows: -
 Unsaponifiable oils and waxes are emulsified

 Dust particle are removed and held in a stable suspension.
 Proteins are hydrolyzed into soluble products.
 Saponifiable oils are converted to soaps.
 Mineral matter gets dissolved.
 Simpler amino compounds are dissolved.
 Pectose and pectin’s are changed into soluble salts.
Combined Desizing and scouring is done in the section A, of the Perble range.
It involves padding the fabric through the saturator maintained at room temperature,
containing both the Desizing and scouring chemicals. And then passing it onto the
Reaction chamber where a dwell time is given depending upon the type of fabric, so that
the proper swelling of fiber can occur and thereby causing proper penetration of
chemicals.
FOLLOWING ARE THE PARTS OF COMBINED DESIZING AND

SCOURING RANGE:
 SATURATOR: The fabric after passing through the cold washer enters the saturation
tank.It is in this tank the fabric is padded with the Desizing and the scouring
Chemicals.
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PARAMETERS OF SATURATOR: -
 Nip pressure: 1.4ton

 Temperature: room temp
 Capacity of saturator tank: 500 lt.
CHEMICALS USED IN SATURATOR AND THEIR FUNCTIONS ARE :
 SODIUM PERSULPHATE: It is an oxidative Desizing agent. The biggest

advantage of using Sodium Persulphate is its mode of action. The mode of action of
Persulphate is much faster and is much more economical. The padding of Sodium
Persulphate is done at room temperature because of the fact that other chemicals of
the saturator catalytically decompose it.
 NaOH: It is used as scouring agent for cotton fabric.
 SERRIX 2UDI: It’s a sequestering agent
 DUPON OSG: It is a wetting agent.
Recipe of saturator:
Chemical Concentration
Sodium Hydroxide : Varies with fabric
Sodium per sulphate : 20gpl
Serrix 2UDI : 2gpl
Duponosg : 2gpl
CONCENTRATION OF NaOH USED FOR DIFFERENT FABRIC
S.No. Fabric Type NaOH conc. Gpl

1. 100% Cotton (B/W) 60
2. 100% Cotton 30 s 50
3. 100% Cotton (SHIRTING) 55
4. 2 PLY Fabric 60
5. Polyester /Cotton 30
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 C.C.C METER: C.C.Cmeans Chemical concentration control meter is an Electronic
sensing device, situated behind the reaction chamber-A, which automatically adjusts
the feed of chemicals into the saturator. There are four tanks for the chemicals, each
with the capacity of 120ltrs,having stock solution of the chemicals. These stocks tanks
are connected to the individual pumps. These pumps are provided with non-returnable
valves. A graph is simultaneously plotted on the C.C.C.meter, indicating the
concentration of NaOH being fed to the saturator. Setting on NaOH C.C.C meter is
made in the form of numbers ranging from 1to 8.
SETTING POINT NaOH CONCENTRATION (gpl)

1 25
2 40
3 45
4 55
5 60
6 65
7 70
8 80
A sensor is provided which checks the SET and the ACTUAL readings of the concentration,
in case the SET value is higher than the ACTUAL value the sensor directs the pump to
increase the dosing of the chemicals and vice versa.
 REACTION CHAMBER-A:After passing through the saturator the fabric enters the
reaction Chamber. Where fabric is kept for sometime so that reaction can take place.
This dwell time depends on the type of fabric.
Parts of reaction chamber-A

 TOP PARTS
 BOILING BOX
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 PULL OUT
The fabric first enters the top part so as to attain, the desired temperature and then fall into
the boiling box, where the necessary dwell time is given in the liquor
 TOP PART:The fabric after passing through the saturator – nip mangle goes to
the reaction chamber of top part. There is a network of steam pipes in top part to
provide the required temperature.The heating of the fabric is by means of the
steam through the perforated pipes. This result in the swelling of the fibers so that
chemicals can penetrate inside steam for heating is saturated with water by means
of de super pump. The steam pipes are connected to the solenoid valve, which
automatically shuts off the steam supply when the required temperature is
reached. The fabric is plaited inside by one stream of water from one side and one
stream of chemicals from the other side.
 BOILING BOX: There are following parts in boiling box:

 Drum and plate
 Conveyor Belt
 Width setting plate
The reaction chamber is made of stainless steel having a central drum which has a plate.
After passing through the top part, the fabric is allowed to fall on to the plate. The fabric
is plaited inside by one end of the stream from one side and one stream of chemicals from
other side. The fabric from the top gets plaited around this plate and this plate takes the
fabric around the drum.The incoming fabric then slides down onto the conveyor. The
fabric speed is same in the entry as well as at the exit.
The speed of the plate and the conveyor belt is adjusted accordingly so that the required
dwell time is given to the fabric. The chemicals to be added in the reaction chamber are
added directly. There is no C.C.C. meter for the reaction chamber.
Circulation pump is used to circulate the liquor in the reaction chamber. The circulation
pump pumps the liquor to the top part from where the fabric is falling, onto the plates.
These pipes are attached to the showers. The liquor falls through these showers
alternatively thus causing the plaiting action onto the fabric.The liquor after passing
through the pump goes to the circulation tank and then to the showers.
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 PULL OUT:After the required time, the fabric is subjected to the pull out section,
where it is subjected to the beater so as to open the width and to remove foldsfrom the
fabric surface. Generally the bottom weights fabrics have lesser dwell time,Whereas
for Lightweight the dwell time is more, So as to avoid the formation of pile marks
because as more fabric falls on the layer of the fabric, more piles will, be formed
which will be otherwise difficult to remove in subsequent processes.
SPECIFICATIONS OF REACTION CHAMBER-A
Capacity of reaction chamber : 6.5 to 7 ton

Plaiting arrangement in chamber : Plaiting with the help of solution
Speed of conveyor belt & hollow drum : According to the type of fabric
Temperature of boiling box : 95 0C
Temperature of top part : 95 0C
Fabric capacity of reaction chamber : 6000 meters
Frequency of drainage : Depending upon the fabric meter run
Bath parameters:
For 100% cotton
Caustic soda :220 liter (48o Be)
Sodiumpersulphate :30liter (200gpl)
Duponosg :10 liter
Serix 2UDI :10 liter
Water : 6.5 tons
For P/C blend: For changing over the recipe from

100%Cotton to P/C blend of any
Ratio, the liquor of the reaction
Chamber is drained from 6.5 tons to
Nearly 4.5tons. And water is added
To make this volume.
The fabric then passes through the guider, which is attached to the sensor. If the fabric is
not properly opened, it escapes from the guider, the circuit is completed and it results in
the form of a signal. The fabric then passes through a multiple cloth guider, which
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removes the creases and imparts the necessary tension to the fabric. The fabric than enters
the open washer. It gets adequate steaming in this chamber.
WASHINGRANGE
The fabric after passing through the pull out section of the reaction chamber enters the
four washers for effective washing. Temperature of the washers is kept at 85 degree
Celsius. The counter current flow of water is used in all these washers so as to have a
thorough washing of the fabric.
After each washer there are nipping mangle, nip pressure of each washer is kept to 2
ton. In order to avoid formation of creases the washers are provided with an expander roll
at their respective exits. After every washer is a dancer roll so as to maintain the adequate
tension in the fabric. After washers there is a Plaitor. This arrangement is in NEW
PERBLE. This Plaitor is used only when there is no further processing like bleaching, for
example fabrics containing Lycra are not bleached, so these are plaited at this very stage.
For 100% cotton and P/C blends this Plaitor is by-passed. The fabric then passesthrough
the cold washer so as to lower the temperature to room conditions before entering the
peroxide saturator.
PARAMETRS ABOUT THE WASHING RANGE OF SECTION B:
WATER NIP ROLLER

DANCER
WASHER WATER TEMPERATURE PRESSURE
ROLLER
NUMBER TYPE IN DEGREE AFTER
PRESSURE
CELCIUS WASHER
1st From CRP 85 2 TON 20-50 KGF
2nd From CRP 85 2 TON 20-50 KGF
3rd From CRP 85 2 TON 20-50 KGF
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4th From CRP 85 2 TON 20-50 KGF
5th Soft water R.T 5 TON 20-50 KGF
SETTING FOR pH
SET NO. pH
1. 2.8
2. 2.9
3. 3.0
4. 3.1
5. 3.2
Titration is provided in the CCC meter, where automatic titration are done using standard,
Solutions of 75% sulfuric acid H2 SO4 . And 10% sodium bisulphate NaHSO3.
A graph is simultaneously plotted on the C.C.C. meter showing the actual concentration
of NaClO2 and pH of the solution.
PEROXIDE BLEACHING:
This section in NEW PERBLE is Section-B. Hydrogen per-oxide is considered as
universal bleaching agent. Peroxide bleaching is generally done for the fabrics, which are
to be delivered as full whites, to the parties. The bleaching with peroxide gives full white
fabric. This is basically due to the mode of action of peroxide reacting with the cellulose.
Peroxide bleaching is a costly process to obtain full white cloths, as it demands very large
quantity of peroxide, which too isn’t cheaper. Hence to obtain full white
23 | P a g e
Fabric, firstly the fabric is chlorite bleached, and then is peroxide bleached, it is called
full bleach, such a sequence cut off the cost to large extent and moreover the fabric
whiteness index improves.
The P/C blend is always full bleached because necessary whiteness as obtained after
semi-bleaching is unacceptable.
The COTTON/LYCRA blend is always full bleached using only peroxide bleaching, as
chlorite bleaching damages the elasticity of the Lycra.
ADVANTAGES OF USING PER-OXIDE BLEACH:

 The loss in weight in bleaching is less as compare to hypo chlorite.
 Less water is required with per-oxide bleach.
 Pure and permanent whiteness is observed.
PARAMETERS OF SATURATOR:
S.No. CHEMICALS STRENGTH CONCEN. FUNCTION

(GPL)
1 Hydrogen 35% 15 g/l for Lycra Bleaching Agent
Peroxide 30g/l for Cotton
40g/l for Cotton
2PLY& B/W
2 Caustic Soda 70% 5 g/l for Cotton Maintains pH

8g/l for Cotton 10.5 – 11
2PLY& B/W
3g/l for Lycra
3 Serrix 2UDI Standard 1.5 g/l Chelating agent

solution
4 Sifam Standard 2g/l H2O2 stabilizer

solution
Saturator solution is kept at room temperature. The saturated fabric then enters the
reaction chamber, which is essentially the same as the reaction chamber of desizing and
scouring. But there is an arrangement of plating with the help of plaitor. Speed of
conveyer belt and cylinder is adjusted according to the dwell time of the fabric.
24 | P a g e
PARAMETERS OF PER-OXIDE SATURATOR:
Nip pressure : 2 ton
Temperature : room temp
Capacity of saturator tank : 500 lt.
pH : 11 for Bottom weight
: 10.5 for Light weight
: 10.5 for P/C
The feed to the saturator is maintained by means of C.C.C. meter, situated behind the
reaction chamber-C. The basic functioning and principle of C.C.C.meter is same as that
of the NaOH C.C.C. meter (OF RANGE A).
Here settings are adjusted according to the set points for NaOH and H2O2 separately.
Concentration of NaOH and H2O2 is checked by titration with KMno4 and H2 SO4 .
Setting points are given below: -
SETTING POINTS FOR NaOH
SET POINTS NaOH CONCENTRATION (gpl)

1. 0.5
2. 1.0
3. 1.5
4. 2.0
5. 3.0
6. 5.0
7. 7.0
8. 10.0
SETTING POINTS FOR H2O2
. SET POINTS H2O2 CONCENTRATION (gpl)

1. 2.0
2. 3.0
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3. 4.0
4. 5.0
5. 8.0
6. 10.0
7. 15.0
8. 20.0
SPECIFICATIONS OF PEROXIDE REACTION CHAMBER FOR NEW PERBLE
Capacity of reaction chamber : 6.5 to 7 ton

Plaiting arrangement in chamber : Plaiting with the help of plaitor.
Speed of conveyor belt & hollow drum : Depending on the dwell time
Temperature of boiling box : 90 0C
Temperature of top part : 90 0C
Fabric capacity of reaction chamber-B : 6000 meters
Concentration of reaction chamber : 1/3rd of the saturator
Total volume of water : 1ton for 100% Cotton
Dwell time : 20 minute
WASHING AND DRYING RANGE

After subjecting to pull out, of Range C, the fabric next enters the washers. There are five
washers, four are maintained at a temperature of 85oC,while the fifth one is a cold wash,
at R.T. The flow of water is counter current so as to impart an effective washing. Nip
pressure of each washer is kept 2 tons and of 5th washer is kept 5tonn. In order to avoid
formation of creases the washers are provided with an expander roll at their respective
exits. After every washer there is a dancer roll so as to maintain the adequate tension in
the fabric.
PARAMETRS ABOUT THE WASHINGRANGE:
26 | P a g e
WASHER WATER WATER NIP ROLLER DANCER
NUMBER TYPE TEMPERATURE PRESSURE ROLLER
IN DEGREE AFTER PRESSURE
CELCIUS WASHER
1st CRP 85 2 TON 20-50 KGF
2nd CRP 85 2 TON 20-50 KGF
3rd CRP 85 2 TON 20-50 KGF
4th CRP 85 2 TON 20-50 KGF
5th Soft water Room Temp. 5 TON 20-50 KGF
After this, fabric goes to a vertical drying range where all the water is evaporated and we
get completely dry fabric.
VERTICAL DRYING RANGE:

There are three VDR’s to dry the fabric. Each of which consists of 10 drying cylinders,
the last one consists of 7 drying cylinders and 3 cooling cylinders, at the end, so as to cool
the dried fabric before the Plaitor plaits it on the trolley. The fabric after washing is
passed through nip bowls having a pressure of 5 tons. Then it passes through the first
drying range. The drying cylinders are steam heated. The main steam pipe is having a
pressure of 6 kg/cm2 and so far each drying range there is a pressure of 2 kg/cm2. Each
drying cylinder is provided with two steam lines. One is for heating the cylinders and
other for removing exhaust steam. Cooling cylinders are cooled with cold water.
27 | P a g e
OPERATION SEQUENCE OF PERBLE RANGE
SINGEING
WASHING
DESIZING &
SCOURING
WASHING
H2O 2 BLEACH
WASHING
DRYING ON
CYLINDERS
PLAITOR
28 | P a g e
2. NEW PAD STEAMER
New Pad steamer is used in the preparatory section for the pretreatments of yarn dyed
qualities, which are basically 100%cottom, and cotton/Lycra blend. The pad steamer here
is attached after the singeing machine. And is same as that used by the dyeing section,
with only difference of 14 washers.
The aim of the Pad-Steamer in the preparatory section is as follows:-

 Singeing of organic cotton and yarn dyed.
 Desizing and scouring of yarn dyed.
 Steam bleaching.
 Cold bleaching.
 Soft finish
 Dye fixation
 Removal of the dye(stripping).
 Definishing.
 Simple washing after peaching.
NEW PAD STEAMER CONSIST OF FOLLOWING MAIN PARTS:
 Chemical padding mangle

 Steamer
 Washers
 Drying
 Plaitor
PADDING: The fabric is padded with the recipes, in the padding mangle according to
the process. The required solution for a particular function is prepared in stock tanks
placed near the machine. Through the pump the chemical is forced into the padding bath.
The chemical is continuously fed to the bath using a solenoid valve. As the level is
29 | P a g e
maintained the valve automatically shuts off, thus maintaining the liquor level in padding
mangle. According to the type of process the fabric is padded with the different
chemicals. The padding conditions remain same.
STEAMING: The most critical section in the dyeing is the steamer. Though padding of
chemicals in the pad- steamer is correct, any minor problem can bring the worst results.
The utmost care has to be taken of the steaming section. The aim of the steaming
operation is that it provides a medium for the chemical diffusion. The steam acts as a
miniature chemical bath through which the chemical at the required temperature diffuses
into the fiber. The steamer has a Hut shape i.e is the roof is tapered so that the angle of
contact between the two sides is 90° because as the exhaust steam rises, it condenses on
the top of the roof. Also the condensed droplet slides to the side preventing drop marks.
The top rollers are driven while the bottom rollers are free running. The bearings of both
the top and bottom rollers are provided with the water lubrication. Water lubrication is
very essential when only washing of the fabric is done. Steaming time is nearly 1 minute.
This is because during washing there is no steam in the steamer. The bearings of the
rollers contain carbon seals, which get damaged due to heat developed due to friction.
During the steaming this water lubrication is not so essential as the steam itself act as a
lubricant for the bearings.
STEAM SUPPLY: The steam supply to the steamer is direct from the main supply line.
The essential feature of the steamer is that it has no water sump for the saturating the
steam. Instead there is a direct water line joining the steam line to saturate the steam. The
steamer is also equipped with D-Super pump. This pump mixes water with the steam to
make it saturated. The pump is not in use during winters as the direct steam coming from
the boiler contains enough moisture to be saturated.
Another exciting feature of the steamer is its shape. The roof is tapered so that
the angle of contact between the two sides is 90o. This is essential because as the exhaust
steam rises, it condenses on the top of the roof. At the very moment, the condensed
droplet slides to the side, thus preventing any danger to the moving fabric and preventing
drop marks. The steam in the steamer is fed through four perforated pipes. Which are
present along the width of the steamer. There is a central non-perforated pipe, which
controls the feed to the other pipes. The perforations do not directly impinge steam on the
fabric surface but in the opposite direction.
30 | P a g e
An efficient exhaust system has been provided at the entry so as to limit the amount of
air entering the steamer along with the fabric. The steam supply is so adjusted that some
amount of steam always comes out from the entry. This steam prevents the ingress of air.
A water sump is provided at the exit leg. This has a dual function. It prevents the leakage
of the steam that is acting as a steam seal and secondly preventing the air entering the
steamer. This water sump is continuously provided with the cold water. This is essential
especially in case of vat dyed fabrics otherwise it becomes an exhaust Leuco-bath for vat
dyes.
WASHER: After passing through the steamer the fabric next goes to the washers for
thorough washing. The Pad-Steamer comprises of 14 washers. The first washer is at room
temperature and gradually raising the temperature of the subsequent washers. In case of
vat dye the washer 6 contain hydrogen per-oxide for oxidation. The counter-current flow
of water is used in the washers.
If the fabric is yarn dyed then the desizing and scouring chemicals are added in the
trough before padding mangle, and in padding mangle only water is taken. The 8th washer
is meant for soaping. Non-Ionic soap is used for soaping. The 13th washer is meant for
neutralization.
After passing the fabric through the washing unit , it passed to the vertical drying range.
TABLE REPRESENT THE CONDITION AND FUNCTION OF

VARIOUS WASHING BATHS
WASHER CHEMICAL WATER NIP DANCER

NUMBER TEMPERATURE ROLLER ROLLER
IN (°C) PRESSURE PRESSURE
OF
WASHER
1 WATER 40 2 TON 20-50 KGF
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6 H2O2 FOR VAT 70 2 TON 20-50 KGF

DYE
8 SOAP 70 2 TON 20-50 KGF
13 ACID 40 2 TON 20-50 KGF
DRYING RANGE:The drying range consists of 27 steam-heated cylinders and 3 cooling

cylinders and finally plaiting is done with the help of plaitor. Among 27 steam heated
cylinders, 3-4 cylinders are Teflon coated rollers to prevent the fixation of dye particles of
yarn dyed. The water in the cooling cylinders becomes hot gradually. It is then passed
through pipes into 7th washer where it is heated using steam.
For heating the water or chemicals in washers the steam is passed through a Solenoid
Valve. As soon as the set temperature is reached, the valves shut off thus discontinuing
the steam supply. The washers are having inventor’s motors. These motors are connected
in series to each other. The dancer rollers are also connected to their individual motors.
 Enzymatic Desizing yarn dyed qualities:

In this process, wet on wet process is followed. In this type of desizing, enzymes are used
to desize the yarn dyed fabric qualities. For this desizing chemicals are taken in saturator
no 2 while the first saturator is filled with the water.
32 | P a g e
Chemicals used in enzyme desizing and their functions as follows: -
CHEMICAL FUNCTION
Bectasol HTN Enzyme
Lustone SE
Carrlon MFB Wetting agent
Recipe For Enzyme Desizing:-

Bectasol HTN 15 gpl
Lustone SE 5 gpl
Carrlon MFB 5 gpl
PARAMETERS:
Dwell time : 1min
Dosing rate : 180 lt/hr
Temperature : 80°C
pH : 5-5.5
Speed : 70 mt/min
Saturator Mangle Pressure :5 tonn
 Cold bleaching of cotton / lycra:
Cold bleach is the process of bleaching cotton/ lycra fabrics at room temp. This is Dry On
Wet Process. In this process the chemicals are taken in the first saturator.
Chemicals used in cold bleaching and their functions as follows: -
CHEMICAL FUNCTION
Hydrogen Peroxide Bleaching agent
Sodium Hydroxide pH maintain
Sifam Stabilizer
Duponosg Wetting agent
33 | P a g e
Serrix 2UDI Chelating agent
Recipe For Cold Bleaching:-

Hydrogen Peroxide 70 gpl
Sodium Hydroxide 32 gpl
Sifam 23 gpl
Duponosg 10 gpl
Sarrix 2UDI 2 gpl
PARAMETERS:
Dwell time : 18 hr
Temperature : 35°C
pH : 13-14
Speed : 70 mt/min
Saturator Mangle Pressure : 2 tonn
 Steam bleaching:
Steam bleach is done for both yarn dyed fabrics and piece dyed to make the white yarn
whiter. This is Dry On Wet process. This type of bleaching is done mainly in case of Vat
dyed yarn not in case of Reactive Dyed yarn because in this case dye can bleed. In this
process the chemicals are taken in padder.
Chemicals used in cold bleaching and their functions as follows: -

CHEMICAL FUNCTION
Hydrogen Peroxide Bleaching agent
Sodium Hydroxide pH maintain
Sifam Stabilizer
Marpon Wetting agent
Sarrix 2UDI Chelating agent
34 | P a g e
Recipe For Steam Bleaching:-
 For Yarn Dyed:
Sodium Hydroxide 18gpl
Sifam 33 gpl
Duponosg 10 gpl
Serrix 2UDI 3 gpl
 For Piece Dyed:
Sodium Hydroxide 10gpl
Sifam 13 gpl
Duponosg 3 gpl
Serrix 2UDI 2 gpl
PARAMETERS:
Dwell time : 3min
Temperature : 100°C
pH : 13-14
Speed : 70 mt/min
Saturator Mangle Pressure : 2 tonn
 Dyeing development and washing:

New pad steamer can also be used for dyeing development. For both vat as well as
reactive development.
Secondly washing of HT processes is also done in this machine.
 NCR Washing:
NCR means Non Confirmatory Report. This is attached to the fabric that faces some
problem in normal processing. For example crease, shade not ok, stains etc. Such goods
are washed on new pad steamer as per the specification given by technical department.
35 | P a g e
VARIOUS PROCESSES OF NCR INCLUDE:
 Hot wash
 Padder soaping
 Definish
 Stripping
 Steam bleaching etc.
New pad steamer is also used

 For giving Oxalic Acid Treatment on Cotton. So as to remove rust stain.
 Post washing in case of Peached Fabrics.
Other important details about the pad steamer will be given when it will be dealt under
dyeing section later
FIXED CONDITIONS AT NEW PAD STEAMER
 Temperature of steaming chamber: 102 °C

 Temperature of saturator bath 1: Room temperature
 Nip pressure of saturator bath 1: 2 TON
 Nip pressure of saturator bath 2: 5 TON
 Speed of different fabric: 70 mt / min (it may be vary)
3. MERCERIZATIONRANGE
Total Machines :2
Machine maker : Sando iron works, WakayamaJapan.
Threading length : 350 meter
INTRODUCTION:
36 | P a g e
The objects of mercerization process are: -
 To increase the dye uptake.
 To increase the tensile strength of the fabric.
 To increase lustre of the fabric.
 Better coverage of immature cotton fibers.
 To remove crease marks.
 To remove neps from the fabric.
 To increase the reactivity and absorbency of the fabric.
After mercerization microscopic observation shows that the cross-section of cotton

changes from elliptical to circular, due to mercerization. These changes in fabric properly
result from swelling and internal re-orientation of the cellulose structure, creating more
sites for chemical and physical bonding in mature cotton fibers. Immature cotton fibers
are also restructured, thereby increasing the dye-ability and reactivity in general.
Mercerizing may be carried out at various stage of preparation, but usually done after
bleaching. It can be carried out on the greige fabric but the effects tend to be confined
mainly to the surface since full penetration into the fabric by the viscous solution of
caustic soda does not occur, at low temperatures. Even with the aid of wetting agents and
moreover there is fouling of the liquor by the size residues.
In Auro textile mercerization is carried on chain mercerizing machine, in this
machine cloth is first allowed to shrink and then stretched.
MERCERIZER MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS
 No. Of caustic saturator tank: 2

 No. Of drying cylinders: 28
 No. Of cooling cylinders: 2
 Pressure of drying cylinders: 2 bar
 Type of padding mangle at caustic saturator: 2 dip 2 nip type
 Threading length: 350 mt
 Width adjust shaft: 9
 Temperature of caustic saturator bath: 20 oC-25
37 | P a g e
 Concentration of caustic used in shower: 5 o Be to 8 o Be (40 to 46 gpl )
 No. Of shower used: 5
 Nash Pump: 5
 Capacity of caustic saturator bath: 1000 to 1200 lt
 C.R.P. (Caustic recovery plant): It is based on evaporation principal. The main
function of caustic recovery plant is to recover caustic and concentrate it.
PARTS OF MERCERIZERRANGE
SECTIONS
Mercerization machines has five sections:
 Padding Section
 Tenter chain
 Tenter pit
 Washing range
 Drawing unit
ALKALI BATH SATURATORS AND THE TIMING CYLINDERS

After fabric comes out of the perble range it then goes to the first caustic saturator bath of
mercerizer. Here it is impregnated with 26 0Be caustic solution maintained at 20degree
Celsius temperature by the chilling unit. The impregnated fabric is squeeze by the
squeeze mangle (2 dip 2 nip type) in which middle roller is made up of steel and other
two rollers are rubber covered after then fabric passes over the first range of dwelling
cylinders, which is also called as timing cylinders. Where adequate dwelling time is given
to the fabric to swell properly.
Since the process is very rapid, it happens that the fabric is not thoroughly padded with
caustic, so it is given a second immersion in the second caustic bath and again the
dwelling time on the dwelling cylinders are given. After passing through the second range
of timing cylinders fabric passed between the nip of feed mangle .
CLIP CHAIN STENTER
38 | P a g e
The treated fabric has a tendency to shrink so the fabric is stretched to required width in
the clip chain stenter. There is an arrangement of setting the width of fabric. Width of the
fabric is sets according to the consumer’s requirements. On this way, the fabric is sprayed
with dilute caustic solution of 5 Be, which is recovered from it and collected in the pits
underneath. The suction is provided that sucks the caustic from the surface to below,
down to pits and this also result in recovery of caustic, which was deposited in the interior
of the fibers. The flow of caustic solution in these pits is counter-current that is against
the direction of the fabric. After passing through these showers, the mercerized fabric is
then subjected to a thorough washing.
NaOH C.C.C. METER

Here also CCC meter automatically adjust the fed of caustic into alkali bath saturaters.
The standard concentration of NaOH taken is 26 Be.
There are two pipes are attached to the saturater. One pipe for each saturater, both the
saturators have the drainpipe and also a pipe, which enter through the steel filter. The
steel filter is provided with the pipes from from the fresh caustic and recoverd caustic. It
is also provided with the water pipe. As the actual concentration falls below the set value,
the pump of recoverd caustic tank feeds the caustic into the filter.
The fresh caustic is used only when the supply from the C.R.P is not there. There is
another pipe that takes caustic from the filter to C.C.C sensor, where the conc. Of NaOH
is manipulated in GPL, which is converted to Be. If there is some variation, the
PLC(Programmed Logic Control) sends electronic signal, which then accordingly directs
the pump to regulate the flow of caustic.
SETTING POINTS FOR NaOH
.SET POINTS NaOH CONCENTRATION (0 Be)

1. 6
2. 8
3. 12
4. 20
5. 22
6. 24
7. 26
8. 32
39 | P a g e
WASHINGRANGE
After passing the fabric through the stenter chain it is passed through the 9 washing
baths. Following are the functions of individual washing bath:-
1. The seven (1-7) are maintained at 85 degrees Celsius temperature.

2. The eight (8) washer is of neutralized wash maintained at a temperature of 40
degree Celsius temperature. it is because of in eight washer fabric is neutralized with
acetic acid, if the fabric come in contact with acid in hot condition there is a chance of
degradation of fabric.
3. The eight washer (8) is of acetic acid, to neutralize the highly alkaline Fabric.pH of the
acid is 4.4 to 5.5.
4. The ninth washer (9) is maintained at40 degree Celsius temperature for the effective
washing to occur.
.
VERTICAL DRYING RANGE

After neutralization the fabric is passed over vertical drying range. The fabric that goes to
drying range should be perfectly neutral, acidic pH leads to damaging of cotton and basic
pH leads to yellowing. Vertical drying range is same as that of drying range of perble
range.
CHILLING UNIT
The chilling unit is provided on the mercerizer to control the temperature of the caustic. It
cools the NaOH solution to a require temperature.
CAUSTIC RECOVERY PLANT

It has been known that for Mercerization process, caustic is required in large quantities.
Thus to cut off the cost of caustic soda, the recovery plant was set up to recover the
40 | P a g e
caustic which can be removed from the fabric by washing with water. It results into weak
lye formation. Though very dilute in concentration, for the environment point of view,
this cannot be discharged into ETP. So for this purpose caustic recovery plant has been
installed. The principle of CRP unit is to evaporate the water from the weak lye. There are
total two C.R.P. One for piece dyed fabric and other is for yarn dyed fabric.The diff.
between these two is that in second C.R.P, H2O2 dosing is done to remove color particles
from caustic.
 Efficiency of CRP varies between 90-95%.
FLOW OF FABRIC AT MECRIZATION MACHINE
FabricInlet
Caustic Saturator 1
Timing Cylinders
CausticSaturator 2
Timing Cylinders
Tenter Chain
Washing Baths (4)
Neutralizing Bath
Washing Baths (3)

41 | P a g e
Neutralizing Bath
Drying Range
Plaitor
FIXED CONDITIONS AT MERCERIZER M/C
 Temperature of saturator bath 1 & 2: 20 to 24oC

 Concentration of NaOH: 26o Be
 Nipping pressure at saturator 1: 8.0 (L)/ 8.0(R)
 Nipping pressure at saturator 2: 8.0 (L)/ 8.0 (R)
 Dancer pressure is: 0.6 Mpa
 Pressure at feed mangle: 2 Ton
 Temperature in tenter pool bath: 85oC
 Ph of acetic acid: 3.9
 Pressure of drying cylinders: 2.5 Bar
 Washing conditions:
WASHER No. FUNCTION

1 Hot washing
2 Hot washing
3 Hot washing
4 Cold washing
5 Neutralization using H2SO4
6 Hot washing
7 Hot washing
8 Hot washing
9 Neutralization using
CH3COOH
42 | P a g e
VARIABLE CONDITIONS AT MERCERIZER
 Clip chain width: Sets according to consumers requirement

 Dancer pressure: Varies with type of fabric
 Time to swell: Varies with speed of machine
PARAMETERS OF MACHINE FOR DIFFERENT TYPES OF

FABRIC
S.No. QUALITY No.OF TEMP. OF BATH ( oC )

CAUSTIC BATH No.
SATURATOR 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
USED
1 100%Cotton T/W 2 85 85 85 85 85 85 85 RT RT
2 100%Cotton B/W 2 85 85 85 85 85 85 85 RT RT
3 Polyester/Cotton 2 85 85 85 85 85 85 85 RT RT
Blend
4 Peach fabric 2 85 85 85 85 85 85 85 RT RT
5 Cotton/Lycra 2 85 85 85 85 85 85 85 RT RT
6 Yarn dyed 1 70 70 70 70 70 70 70 RT RT
Cotton/Lycra
TEST OF FABRIC AFTER MERCERIZATION:

 Whiteness Index
 Absorbency Test
 Width Of Fabric
 Tensile Strength
 Tegwa.
4. PTR
This machine is used for function of desizing, scouring and bleaching. This machine is most
complicated machine in a house and the biggest machine.
43 | P a g e
No. of machine: 1
 PTR.
Maker: Sando Iron Works, Japan.
Section:
machines have different sections.
PTR has following three sections:

Section A: desizing.
Section B: combined scouring and Peroxide bleaching
Section C: Vertical Drying Range.
CHEMICALS USED IN SATURATOR AND THEIR FUNCTIONS ARE :
 LAKZYM TAW DL: It is a enzyme used on the machine for the enzyme desizing of
the fabric.
 NaOH: It is used as scouring agent for cotton fabric.
 SERRIX 2UDI: It’s a sequestering agent
 DUPON OSG: It is a wetting agent.
 HYDROGEN PEROXIDE: It is used as a bleaching agent
FOLLOWING ARE THE PARTS OF MACHINE AND THEIR

FUNCTION:
ENZYME DESIZING UNIT: The enzyme desizing unit consist of the desizing chemicals
such as enzyme through which the fabric passes to the washing unit.
WASHING UNIT:After the enzyme desizing of the fabric it require a wash so the it can be
sent further for the combined scouring and bleaching.
DWELL CHAMBER: fabric after desizing require some time for the better penetration of
the chemicals and their effectivenesss so after enzyme desizing the dwell time of 6 min is
given to the fabricand then again sent to the washing zone for the washing of the fabric.
44 | P a g e
COMBINED SCOURING AND BLEACHING UNIT:After enzyme desizing combined
scouring and bleaching is carried out on this machine.The temp for this process is maintained
at the room temp then the fabric is sent to the dwell chamber for the period of 10 min for
better penetration of the chemicals and their effectiveness and then again the fabric is
washed.
C.C.C METER: C.C.Cmeans Chemical concentration control meter is an Electronic sensing

device, situated behind the machine, which automatically adjusts the feed of chemicals into
the saturator. There are four tanks for the chemicals, each with the capacity of 120ltrs,having
stock solution of the chemicals. These stocks tanks are connected to the individual pumps.
These pumps are provided with non-returnable valves.
VERTICAL DRYING RANGE:

There are three VDR’s to dry the fabric. Each of which consists of 10 drying cylinders,
the last one consists of 7 drying cylinders and 3 cooling cylinders, at the end, so as to cool
the dried fabric before the Plaitor plaits it on the trolley. The fabric after washing is
passed through nip bowls having a pressure of 5 tons. Then it passes through the first
drying range. The drying cylinders are steam heated. The main steam pipe is having a
pressure of 6 kg/cm2 and so far each drying range there is a pressure of 2 kg/cm2. Each
drying cylinder is provided with two steam lines. One is for heating the cylinders and
other for removing exhaust steam. Cooling cylinders are cooled with cold water.
OPERATION SEQUENCE OF PERBLE RANGE
SINGEING
WASHING
ENZYME
DESIZING
WASHING
45 | P a g e
COMBINED
SCOURING AND
BLEACHING
WASHING
DRYING ON
CYLINDERS
PLAITOR
DYEING SECTION
The most important feature of dyeing used here in Auro Textiles is the continuous dyeing
range (CDR). It is the machine of latest technology and very few mills in India are equipped
with continuous dyeing range. It consists of Padder Box with a capacity of 50-60 lts. The
fabric is soaked in open width with the dye liquor of adequate concentration to obtain pre-
determined colour intensity. Then it is squeezed with couple of roller to eliminate the excess
liquor and then it is passed into the thermal zone. Here the fabric is passed between two rows
of infrared heaters and its temperature is increased to a level ensuring diffusion of dye inside
the fabric. Since the speed of fabric is 60-70 mts/min.the time during which fabric remain in
the IR zone is only 2-4 sec. The thermal zone is closely connected with the hot flue chamber.
The pad-dyeing method ensures a full penetration of dye inside the fabric at a relatively low
consumption of dyes, chemical, steam and water.
By using the continuous dyeing range the prime objectives fulfilled are as follows:-
46 | P a g e
 Uniform application of dyes irrespective of the class of dyes
 Reproducibility of shades
 Large savings in term of energy and water
 Proper fixation of dyes
 Correct results with required fastness
 Increase in production
 Less polluting and more environment friend
SPECIFICATIONS OF THE MACHINES IN DYEING

SECTION
NO.OF
S.NO MACHINE MAKE
MACHINES
MONFORTS,
1. PAD-DRY THREE GERMANY
SANDOIRON
WORKS,
2. PAD-STEAMER ONE
JAPAN
MONFORST
3. COLD PAD BATCH ONE
MONFORTS
4. THERMOFIX ONE
47 | P a g e
TANK AREA/COLOUR PREPARATION AREA:
The dye stock is first prepared from the lab dip (target sample), provided by the Pilot Plant,
and then the necessary additions are made in tank area so as to obtain that shade in bulk .All
the additions are made in the dye stock tank itself.
Stock volume is prepared according to the formula:
Stock solution volume in liters = GLM*Total length*0.65/1000

Where:
GLM-grams per linear meter of the fabric
0.65-expression in the mangle
The dye stock of any dye that is to be carried out in pad-dry is made in the tank area of color
kitchen. The solution for a particular shade is prepared in one of the nine tanks placed in the
tank area. These tanks are of varying capacity and are fitted with stirrers, levelers and
pipelines of hot and cold water. The weighed dyes are first dissolved in hot water in a bucket.
The dissolved solution is then added to the tank and cold water is added to make up the
complete volume. Stirring is done to make a homogeneous solution.
All the nine tanks are joined by a single glass-pipe, which goes to the padding
trough. The pipe is cleaned fully through flushing system that is water is fed to the
pipe at high pressure.
Special care is to be taken for light shades, which are to be run after a dark
shade because staining can occur. The glass pipe has 30litre capacity, i.e.30litre of
dye solution always remain in the pipe.
The cotton and P/C blend fabrics are dyed with the following dyes
 Vat dyes for 100% cotton
 Reactive dyes for 100% cotton
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 Disperse/Vat dyes combinations for P/C blends
 Reactive/Disperse dye combinations for P/C blends
1. PAD DRY
Pad-dry machine is used to pad the fabric with the dye liquor and subsequently dry it. For
drying purpose I.R. heaters and three hot flue drier at different temperature are connected
with pad dry machine. There are three Pad dry machines used here in Auro Textiles. Pad
dry 1 is generally used for dark shades and Pad dry 2 is generally used for lighter shades
although depending upon requirement lighter shades can also be run in Pad Dry 1 and
vice versa. And Pad Dry 3 is used for E-Control method. Before running a new shade the
rollers are washed properly and then some spare clothe is run over the Pad dry so as to
take out every bit of color of last shade run on the machines before running a new shade
some color is taken in a trough and drained. Then again started with some color taken in a
trough. This helps in avoiding the trailing problem in clothes.
Dye pick up in Pad Dry is generally of the order of 61-65%
The various parts of Pad dry with their functions are:
 Flap prevention Device: Keeps the fabric flat.
 Swivel Tension unit: Maintains the required tension in the fabric.
 Cloth guiders: They are provided to guide the cloth with proper tension and devoid
of creases. These are operated pneumatically filtered compressed air. The roel contact
pressurecan be adjusted for different fabric qualities.
 Rotary Compensater: This is used to ensure even speed running. It is infinitely

pneumatically variable so the necessary longitudinal tension can be produced I fabric.
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 Feed rollers: They are provided to feed the fabric with even tension. The guide
rollers are mounted with low maintenance bearing and run without a separate drive
with the movement of fabric.
 Rotary Tension: This is used to obtain o longitudinal tension in the fabric. It can be
adjusted by hand so that the friction against the rod creats a corresponding
longitudional tension in the fabric.
 Break Roller: The break roller is driven by the fabric. Actuating the brake slows the
roller movement and thus inc. fabric tension.
 Rubber Expander: This prevents creasing and stretches fabric selvedges. The setting
angle of the rubber expander roller can be vary out acc. to fabric quality.
 Padding bath: The volume of the pad bath is 60L to avoid the excess dye liquor
wasted at the end of the run. The dye bath is kept at room temperature only. This is to
ensure that the liquor in the pad box is absorbed and removed by the fabric quickly.
There is also an automatic temperature sensor attached to padding bath,which shows
the temperature of liquor.
 KUSTER MANGLE: There are four bottom rollers running in sealed bearings in the
padding bath. Each roller is about 10cm in diameter. As the fabric starts to run around
the roller at the bottom of the bath, the rollers exert a mild pressure to force dye liquor
into the fabric. The Kuster Mangle ensures uniform pick up dye liquor and MLR
required is very low.
 MANGLE BOWLS: These are of swimming types providing a constant and uniform
squeezing pressure by constantly forcing oil, which travels through out the length of
the roller so that squeezing takes place uniformly along the whole width of the fabric.
 INFRA RED HEATERS: After padding the fabric with the dye liquor it is necessary
for the fabric to be dried. The drying of the fabric has to be done so as to prevent the
dye migration. So it is necessary to pre dry the fabric with infrared heaters. There are
four burners provided (two each) situated to heat the front and the back face of the
fabric. As the fabric passes through the I R chambers the fabric is subjected to a
50 | P a g e
powerful blast of infrared rays falling on the fabric from both the sides. During this
time the fabric in constantly heated up. This causes very rapid evaporation of water
from fabric surface and thus preventing dye migration. Around 70% of water is
evaporated here. A mixture of propane and air of the ratio of 85:15 heat up burners.
The intensity of I R depends upon the quality of the fabric.
 Exhaust System: The exaust air fans draws out evaporated water from a pre dryer
and discharges it into the atmosphere. The extracted air/vapour mixture is replaced by
fresh air.
HOT FLUES: Hot flue units are used to completely dry the fabric. The fabric is led
vertically round a series of top and bottom parallel rollers mounted in an oven. Teflon
coated rollers are used because less dye will stick on these rollers and if sticks than it can
be easily removed. Air is circulated around heat exchangers at the bottom of the machine
up towards the fabric. The top and bottom rollers are accurately aligned so avoiding any
danger to fabric creasing. The hot flue operates with the significant lengthways tension.
This lengthways tension results in stretching of the fabric length. To accommodate for
this, each hot flue section is provided with the dancer roll so as to adjust the length of the
fabric. Hot flue consists of three chambers and temperature in these chambers increases
gradually staring with 110 degree Celsius in first , 120 in second and 120 in third.
TECHNICAL PARAMETERS OF THE PAD DRY MACHINE
Padding bath capacity 60 litres
Pressure of mangle bars 2 at middle and 2.5 at extremes
20% to 90 % depending on the speed of

Intensity of I R heaters
fabric
Fabric length in Padding mangle 1.95 meters
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Fabric length in Hot flue section 90 meters
Total length of fabric in machine 150 meters
No of hot flue chambers 3
Temperature of chamber 1 110 degree Celsius
Dancer pressure 1 bar
No.of cooling cylinders 3
Padding mangle expression 60%
No. of IR heaters Two rows consisting of 4 heaters each
60-70 mts./min. for top weight

Speed of machine
45-55 mts./min. for bottom weight
Various recipes of dye liquor are given below:
Recipes:
1. Reactive dyeing (PD- chemical) PDCH:

Dye Xgpl
Sanspol AMC 20gpl
Common Salt 7.5gpl
52 | P a g e
Resist salt 3gpl
Metaxil WCD 2.0gpl
Alcosperse AD 1.0gpl
Acetic Acid 0.2gpl
2. Reactive (E-Control Method) PDEC

Dye Xgpl
Sanspol AMC 20gpl
Metaxil WCD 2.0gpl
Acetic Acid 0.2gpl
3. Vat dyeing PDVT

Dye Xgpl
Sanspol AMC 20gpl
Sandozin EH 2.0gpl
Chemicals Function
Sanspol AMC Anti-migrating Agent
Metaxil WCD Wetting Agent
Sandozin EH Wetting Agent
Common Salt Exhausting Salt
Resist Salt Prevent color Bledding
Sodium Bicarbonate Dye Fixation
Urea Hygroscopic Agent
Acetic Acid pH maintain
2. PAD STEAMER
Pad steamers are used for the development of dyes so that they have overall good fastness
properties.
The aim of the Pad- steamer in the dyeing section is as follows:
 Development of vat dyes
 Development of reactive dyes (silicate method and chemical method).
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 Washing and soaping of HT -fixed reactive dyes
 Reduction clearing of dispersed dyed polyester/cotton blend.
 Washing of fluff in peached fabric
FABRIC SEQUENCE IN PAD STEAMERAS FOLLOWS
FABRIC INLET
CHEMICAL TROUGH
STEAMER
WATER SEAL
13 WASHERS
VERTICAL DRYING RANGE
PLAITOR
Main Parts Of Pad Steamer
 PADDING
The fabric is padded with the recipes, in the padding mangle according to the process used
for the development of a particular shade. The required solution for a particular function is
prepared in stock tanks placed near the machine. Through the pump the chemical is forced
into the padding bath. The chemical is continuously fed to the bath using a solenoid valve. As
the level is maintained the valve automatically shuts off, thus maintaining the liquor level in
54 | P a g e
padding mangle. According to the type of process the fabric is padded with the different
chemicals. The padding conditions remain same.
 STEAMING
The most critical section in the dyeing is the steamer. Though dyeing in pad dryer has been
successfully carried out and padding of developing chemicals in the pad- steamer is also
correct, any minor problem can bring the worst results. The utmost care has to be taken of the
steaming section. The aim of the steaming operation is that it provides a medium for the dye
diffusion. The steam acts as a miniature dye bath through which the dye at the required
temperature diffuses into the fiber and then fixation of the dye takes place.
.
The steam supply to the steamer is direct from the main supply line. Another exciting feature
of the steamer is its shape. The roof is tapered so that the angle of contact between the two
sides is 90o. This is essential because as the exhaust steam rises, it condenses on the top of the
roof. At the very moment, the condensed droplet slides to the side, thus preventing any
danger to the moving fabric and preventing drop marks. An efficient exhaust system has been
provided at the entry so as to limit the amount of air entering the steamer along with the
fabric. Steam comes from direct supply at 140 o C and it is brought down to 100 o C with the
help of water.
 WATER SEAL
The water seal is provided just after the steamer exit so as to prevent the escape of steam
from the steaming chamber. The trough filled with cold water prevents the escape of the
steam.
 WASHER
After passing through the steamer the fabric next goes to the washers for thorough washing.
The Pad-Steamer comprises of 13 washers. The first washer is at room temperature and the
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temperature gradually rises in the subsequent washers. If the fabric is vat dyed then the 5th
and 6th washers are meant for oxidation. Hydrogen Peroxide is used as an oxidizing agent.
The 8th washer is meant for soaping. Non-Ionic soap is used for soaping. The 12th washer is
used for neutralizing the vat dyed fabric. Acetic acid is used at room temperature. The fabric
then goes to the vertical drying range.
 DRYING RANGE
The drying range consists of 27 steam-heated cylinders and 3 cooling cylinders and finally
plaiting is done.
PROCESS PARAMETERS
1. REACTIVE DYE DEVELOPED USING CHEMICAL METHOD
(Pad Dry–Chemical padding- Developing – Soaping – Neutralization)
PROCESS : PDCH
Chemicals used :PD chemical( Caustic:3.5gpl; Soda Ash: 20gpl salt-250 gpl)
Mangle expression : 70%

Mangle pressure : 2 tons (on each side)
Machine speed : 70 m/min
Steamer dwell time : 1 min
Steam pressure : 1kgf
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Washer Conditions: -
NIP CHEMICAL
WASHE TEMPERATUR CHEMICAL
PRESSUR CONCENTRATIO
R NO. E S
E N
1 Room temp. 2 tons Water _
2 60oC 2 tons Acetic Acid 4gpl
3 85°C 2 tons Water _
5 85°C 2 tons Soap 5gpl
8 85°C 1.5 tons Soap 5gpl
12 Room Temp. 2 tons Water _
13 Room temp. 5tons Water _
2.FOR VAT DYES DEVELOPMENT
Process : PSVT(Developing of Vat dyes)

Chemicals used
Chemicals Light Medium(10- Dark(20- Extra dark Very heavy

(0-10gpl) 20gpl) 30gpl) (30- 40gpl) shade(40-
50gpl)
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Caustic soda 30 gpl 40 gpl 60 gpl 70 gpl 90gpl
(48 Be)
Sodium 25gpl 35gpl 40gpl 50gpl 70 gpl
Hydrosulphite
Eddnine S.D.F 45gpl 55gpl 70gpl 90gpl 100 gpl
 CAUSTIC SODA (48ْ Be): Alkali.

 SODIUM HYDROSULPHITE: Reducing Agent.
 Eddnine S.D.F: Deformer Agent.
OXIDATION: -
 H2O2 (5gm/lt) : Oxidizing Agent
SOAPING: -
 Soap (2 gm/lit)
NEUTRALISATION: -
 Acetic Acid
 PH (1.8-2.5)
Mangle expression : 70%
Mangle pressure : 2 tons (on each side)
Machine speed : 70 m/min
Steamer dwell time : 1 min
Steam pressure : 1kgf
Washer Conditions: -
Washer Temperature Nip Pressure Chemicals Chemical

No. Concentration
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5 60oC 2 tons Peroxide 5gpl+2gpl Acetic Acid
6 60oC 2 tons Peroxide 5gpl
7 85oC 2 tons Water _
o
8 85 C 1.5 tons Soap 2gpl
12 R.T 2 tons Acetic Acid _
13 R.T 5tons Water _
4.REDUCTION CLEARING OF P/C.

 Reduction Clearing chemicals:

 Caustic Soda 40-70gm/lt
 Sodium dithionite 30-50gm/lt
 Time 1min.
Washer Temperature Nip Pressure Chemicals Chemical Concentration

No.
o
3 40 C 2 tons Water _
8 90oC 1.5 tons Soap 2gpl
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12 90oC 2 tons Acetic Acid 4gpl
13 90oC 5tons Water _
3. COLD PAD BATCH

Machine specification:
Name : CPB(cold pad batch)
Speed : 15m/min
Company : BENNINGER
Padding temp : Room temp
Nip roller pressure: 2Ton
PARTS OF THE MACHINE AND THEIR FUNCTION:

1.GUIDER:
Guiders are present at the start of the machine so as the fabric passes through the guider the
crease from the fabric is removed because it keeps the fabric in the stretch condition from the
side and which is also an important factor for the even dyeing.
2.COOLING CYLINDERS:
As the fabric comes from the previous process it is having some temperature that is hot so
initially the fabric is required to be cooled before the padding of the fabric with the dye liquor
so cooling rollers are provided before the padding trough.
3.PADDING TROUGH:
Padding trough is present after the cooling rollers. It contains the dyeing liquor required for
the dyeing of the fabric it is having the capacity of 60 lts.
4.NIP ROLLERS:
These rollers are present just above the padding trough so that the fabric after padding
through the padding trough is thoroughly squeezed to remove the extra dye liquor through out
the length and the width of the fabric.
5.BATCHING TROLLEY:
Batching trolley is present at the end of the machine so the fabric after padding through dye
liquor is collected on this trolley and batched for 12 hours.
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4. THERMOFIX MACHINE
This technique utilizes the high rate of dyeing achieved at high temperature (commonly in the
region of 210oC). A dyeing achieved in less than one hour at 130oC can be attained in 20-60
seconds at about 200oC.
Dyeing is typically achieved in 60 seconds using dry air, 10 seconds with contact heating or
some 3 seconds with IR Heating.
The advantages of thermo-fixation are:
1. No carriers are used.
2. Heat setting and dyeing can be achieved simultaneously.
3. No pressure equipment is required.
4. High volume of material can be economically processed owing to the continuous
nature of the process and dye fixation in the range of 75-90%.
MACHINE SPECIFIACTIONS:
TOTAL MACHINE: 1
MANUFACTURER : MONFORTS, GERMANY
DWELL TIME:1min
THRADING : 110mts
TENSION ON FABRIC: 2bar.
SPEED: 30mts./min
STEAM PRESSURE: 3.5 bar
THREADING LENGTH: 150 mts.
HOT FLUE CHAMBER: 2
COOLING CYLNDERS: 4
This machine is mainly used for development of p/c blend and for decontamination.
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PROCESS SEQUENCE IN THERMOFIXATION MACHINE
FABIC INLET
HOT FLUE CHAMBER
COOLING CYLNDERS
PLATIOR
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FINISHING DEPARTMENT
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The finishing department has following machines:
1. Stenter:
No. of machines : 5
Manufacture : four by Monforts, Germany and one by brukner.
2. Peaching Machine:
No. of machines : 6
Manufacture : four by Xetma and two byLafer.
3. Sanforizing Machine:
No. of machines : 2
Manufacture : Monforts, Germany.
4. Airo machine:
No. of machines : 2
Manufacture : India and biancalani.
5. Curing Machine
No. of machines : 1
Manufacture : India
6. Calendaring Machine
No. of machine:1
Manufacturer: Ramisich Guarneri
FINISHING PROCESSES CAN BE CLASSIFIED AS FOLLOWS:-
 1.CHEMICAL FINISHES
 2. MECHANICAL FINISHES
 CHEMICAL FINISHING
 SOFTENING
Softners have gained great importance in the textile finishing.The main purpose of the softner
is to improve the aesthetic properties of the textiles.It positively influences the technological
properties such as antistatic, hydrophilic properties, elasticity, sewability, abrasion resistance
64 | P a g e
etc.It gives the synthetic fiber a cerain degree of natrural feeling and improve the handling
properties through secondary effects.Generally two types of softners are applied to the textile
material.
 Cationic softners
 Silicone softners
 Reactive softners
 RESIN FINISH
These are basically employed onto the cotton for imparting crease resistance finish to the
cotton and the blended fabrics. Resin used is urea derivative formaldehyde type.
 TEFLON FINISH
In these days, this is very important finish in textile. These are applied to the fabric to make it
water repellant/ water proof. This is mainly given to a Cotton bacause cotton has hai very
good ability to absorb a water. So to reduce this ability this finish is given.
 ETI(Easy TO Iron)
These are basically employed onto the cotton for imparting easy to ironing finish. This is
given to make a cotton wrinkle free.
 MECHANICAL FINISHING
 PEACH FINISH
This is the special mechanical finish given to the fabric in order to make it extra smooth like
the surface of Peach. In this finish fabric is rubbed against EMERY PAPER covered rollers
which make the piles of the fabric surface, rise, giving the extra smooth handle. This finish is
generally not given to the fabric in general processing as it reduces the strength of the fabric.
The machine used to impart this type of finish is known as SEUDING MACHINE.
 SANFORISATION
This treatment is given to pre-shrunk the fabric, because generally when stiched into garment
it shrinks very much due to:
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 Releases of tension
 Tightenig of twist in the fabric
1. STENTER
The main functions of stenter are:


 To impart various chemical finishes and made them set on the fabric.
 For the Width setting of fabric.
 For the Correction of skewing and bowing defect (Mahlo unit)
 For the Heat setting of synthetics.
 Pigment is also added sometimes on Stenter.
Types of finish given to the fabric:
 Soft/normal finish
 Easy to iron (ETI) finish
 Water repellant finish
 Peach finish
 Peach + soft finish
 Flame retardant.
 Soil repellant finish
 Oil repellant finish
 Nano care
 Nano/pel finish
The fabric that comes from the dyeing section is given any of the above-mentioned finishes
according to the customer’s requirement. The finishing liquor is prepared in tank area of the
stenter.
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THE MAIN PARTS OF STENTER AND THEIR AIM ARE AS
FOLLOWS:
 PADDING TROUGH: Various finishing chemicals are transferred to the water-

jacketed trough. The trough is provided with the mangle, which take fabric through it.
The mangle with an expression of 60% finally squeezes the fabric coming out after
padding. It also consists of two rubber covered squeezing rollers. The mangle pressure
is 3 bar. Capacity of the trough is 60 lts. Having a facility of auto metering pump.
 MAHLO UNIT: The fabric due to various wet processes in the processing house
results into distortion of the weft in the form of Skew or Bowing. To straighten the
weft the Mahlo Unit is employed. The Unit comprises of a series of rollers and four
photocell cameras. These cameras are located at the exit of the fabric from the Unit.
Photocell senses any distortion in the fabric and accordingly gives signal to the rollers
so that they adjust and straighten out the fabric.
 FEED ROLLER: After mahlo unit there are feed rollers to feed the fabric to stenter
chain according to the stretching required in the fabric. Generally 3-4% extra feed is
given to the stenter chain in order to compensate the width wise stretching so that
fabric do not get torn off. There are provided 3 feed rollers, two at the top and one at
the bottom.
 WIDTH SETTING UNIT: From feed roll the fabric is set to stenter chain by passing
over feed rollers, which provide required tension to fabric. When fabric is held on the
stenter chain the width of chain can also be set according to the required width of
fabric. It can also be set in any chamber. It is stretched up to 5th chamber but its width
again decreases in 6th & 7th chamber, so as to get relaxed and moreover it has to get
out of chains.
 CHAMBER AND HEATING SYSTEM: There are seven chambers in 1&2 stenter
and 8 chambers in third stenter the stenter. The heating media in 1st & 3rd is same and
in 2nd is different.
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 Thermic oil: In the first and third stenter Thermic oil is used to heat the
radiators.
 Propane gas: In the second stenter mixing air with propane, which heats the
surroundings air in the chamber .Its main advantage is that high setting can be
achieved in 7-8 mins. While in Thermic oil stenter it requires about 1 to 1.5
hrs
 COOLING ROLLERS: 4 water-cooled rollers are provided at the end so that we

don’t get hot fabric at the plaitor.
TECHNICAL PARAMETERS OF STENTER
Threading length of stenter : 70 meters

Pins in Stenter : 464
1. FOR HEAT SETTING

Speed for shirting : 70m/min
Speed for bottom weight : 70m/min
Speed for cotton/lycra : 35m/min
Temperature of chambers : 220oC for P/C AND CVC
: 190oC for C/LYCRA
2. SOFT FINISH
Temperaure of Chambers:
For Shirting : 130°C
For Bottom : 150°C
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Mangle Pressure : 3 bar
pH of Chemical bath : 5-6
pH of fabric : 6-7
3. Nano Care Finish

For Bottom : 120°C
pH of fabric : 5-7
4. Teflon Finish
For Bottom : 130°C
pH of fabric : 5-7
5. Easy To Iron Finish

For Bottom : 150°C
pH of Chemical bath : 5-6.5
pH of fabric : 6-7
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6. Peach Finish
For Bottom : 150°C
pH of Chemical bath : 5-6.5
pH of fabric : 6-7
DIFFERENT CHEMICALS USED
S. No. Chemical name Function

1` Sarasoft I Softener
2 Perapret PEB Tear improver
3 Basosoft SWK Softener –non ionic
4 Biosoft L Enzyme for Washing
5 Fornex W Improves thread slippage
6 Siligin SIN Softener
7 Acetic acid PH regulator
8 Ultratex FMW Softener
9 Sandosperm ACN Silicon Sofener(Macro)
10 Ceraperm MW Silicon Sofener(Miro)
11 Sandolube HD Seam slippage improver
12 Kierlon JETB Wetting agent
13 Sandofix EC Dye Fixing Agent
14 Megatouch Softener-Silico micro
15 Sarapeach MR
16 Sarasoft MRM Softener
17 Parapret HVN Seam slippage improver
18 Texasoft LC ETI finish-non formaldehyde
19 Xtrasoft 2751 Softener
20 Urea Hygroscopioc agent
21 Condenzol LF
22 Fixpret FBECO ETI finish resin
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23 Nuva TTC Oil and water repalant
24 NTX 493 Nano-Finishing chemical
25 Wetaid NRW Wetting agent
26 Sedger PCR2 Crosslinkig resin
26 Ultratex REP Softener
27 Bluton UBR Optical Brightner
28 Bluton SI
29 Uvitex EBF
30 Leucophore BMI
FLOW OF FABRIC IN STENTER
STITCHING
↓
PADDING
↓
MAHLO UNIT (TO PREVENT BOWING AND SKEWING)
↓
FABRIC PASSING THROUGH OVER FEED
↓
FABRIC ENTERY TO STENTER
↓
HEATED CHAMBER
↓
COOLING CYLINDERS
↓
PLAITER
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2. SEUDING MACHINE
There are two types of machine in this section each having different principle.
AIM:The main aim of the seuding machine is to impart peach finish to the fabric
Working:Firstly cloth is passed through water or sometimes with the seuding chemicals in
padding mangle and is then squeezed under 3-4 tonn of pneumatic pressure in order to
remove excess of liquor. The fabric is wetted in order to remove creases from the fabric.
Then fabric is dried over vertical dryers consisting of 5 vertical steam heated cylinders
depending upon the type of seuding machine. From here fabric moves over the main Seuding
section.
The purpose of wetting and drying the fabric is that after drying fabric becomes somewhat
harsh, so it becomes easier to rub the harsh fabric against Emery Rollers to get the better
Peach effect.
First type of Machine( LAFER) is provided with Rollers covered with emery
papers. rollers moves along and this movement is set as per peach effect required. Peaching
effect is greater at lower speed, as fabric gets more time of contact with the emery rollers.
Other parameters of machine like, speed of machine, machine penetration and dandy-roll pull
are maintained as per peach effect is required.
MACHINE PARAMETERS:
Speed of m/c for shirting : 17-25m/min.
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Speed of m/c for bottom wt : 8-15m/min.
Speed of m/c:
For Micro Peach: 25-30m/min
For light Peach: 15-20m/min
For Heavy peach: 10-15m/min
Pressure at squeezing mangle :

For Shirting: 3.5 tonn
For Bottom weight: 5 tonn
Steam pressure for shirting : 5-6 kg/cm2
Steam pressure for bottom wt : 4-5 kg/cm2
Emery paper grit size:
For Light & Micro peach: 600&220
For Heavy peach: 150&220
Speed of Drum:
For Shirting: 75-90rpm
For Bottom weight: 80-110rpm
Emery parallel roller: 12
Emery counter pile roller: 12
Emery Pile Roller speed:
For Shirting: 125rpm
For Bottom weight: 150rpm
Emery Counter-Pile Roller speed:
For Shirting: 40-50rpm
For Bottom weight: 70rpm
Dancer Tension:
For Shirting: 1-4bar
For Bottom weight: 2.5-4.5 bar
Drum Tension:
For Micro Peach: 0.50%
For light Peach: 0.85%
For Heavy peach: 1.2%
Plaiter Tension: 12kg(For all types of fabric)
73 | P a g e
The second seuding machine is of the lastest type – XETMA (drum type) and utilises air at 8
bar and connected load is 42 kw.The machine is specially used to impart softness and to raise
the piles of the fabric,so as to impart comfort.This machine utilises both the emerizing,
raising combination.The machine can operate in combination or in sigle way i.e drum
rotation can be normal or counter.
The drum consist of 24 emery rollers out of which 12 which are red coloured move opposeite
to the direction of the fabric,whereas the other 12 which are green coloured move along the
direction of the fabric.
The Peach effect in the fabric depends upon the following factors:
 Tension in the fabric
 Energy pile
 Energy counter pile
 Drum speed
 Fabric speed
 Pile speed
 Counterpile speed
 Feed reller
 Direction of drum ratation
 Grit size
 Cleaning of roller
Reason For Uneven Peach Effect:
 Defective emery paper
 Crease in fabric
 Stain in fabric
 Dropping of water on fabric
 Holes in fabric
74 | P a g e
FLOW OF FABRIC IN PEACHING MACHINE
STITCHING
↓
PADDING WITH WATER
↓
DRYING
↓
PASSING OVER EMERY ROLLERS
↓
PASSING OVER BRUSH ROLLER
↓
PLAITER
3. SANFORIZING MACHINE
Sanforizing or shrinkage is the final step of finishing before the fabric is forwarded to the
folding department. The function of this machine is to impart pre-determined shrinkage to the
fabric so that there is no further shrinkage in fabric during washing.
The shrinkage normally is given 2-7% depending upon the customer demand and the
quality of the fabric
The machine has following sections:
 Damping section
 Compressing Unit
 Setting Unit
 Cooling unit
 INLET ZONE:Fabric is fed over guide rollers to move in the machine. Firstly, the
fabric is damped with spray showers so that it goes slightly wet in sanforizing
machine for proper shrinkage. If shrinkage is not coming proper then fabric is also
75 | P a g e
subjected to steam through a thick fabric wrapped over the cylinder. This also helps in
damping the fabric and also raising its temperature.
 RUBBER BELT AROUND A STEAM HEATED CYLINDERS:The shrinkage

unit comprises of a rubber felt and steam heated cylinder, which are in contact with
each other. The fabric is fed at the nip of these two. As the felt shrinks, the fabric in
contact with it also shrinks. More the pressure of contact, more will be the felt
shrinkage thus increase in the fabric shrinkage.The rubber felt imparts required
shrinkage to the fabric; to set it permanently the fabric next passes over the PALMER
ROLLER. The palmer roller is covered with an endless blanket, which presses the
fabric to palmer roller. The fabric should pass through the palmer roller and endless
blanket without tension; otherwise shrinkage given at rubber belt will not be set
properly.
During the whole process it is necessary that the fabric is treated with care since excess
shrinkage can lead to loss to company while insufficient shrinkage will lead to residual
shrinkage after finishing.
SHRINKAGE MACHINE PARAMETERS
Speed for shirting : 100 m/min

Speed for bottom weight : 80 m/min
Thickness of rubber felt : 72mm
Hardness of rubber felt : 35-40 shores
Steam pressure (cylinder) : 3 kg/cm2
Water pressure : 0.5 kg/cm2
Air pressure (squeezing rollers) : 5 kg/cm2
Steam pressure in palmer cylinder: 5 kg/cm2
FLOW OF FABRIC IN SHRINKAGE MACHINE

STITCHING
↓
WATER SPRAY (ON/OFF)
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↓
RUBBER BELT UNIT
↓
PALMER FELT
↓
COOLING CYLINDER
↓
PLATIER
4.AIRO FINISH MACHINE
This type of finish is used to give softness to a fabric by beating actin i.e by mechanical
action. This finish is given according to customer demand.
TYPES OF FINISH
In this machine, three types of finish is given:
 Enzyme wash
 Dry airo
 Soaping
THE MAIN PARTS OF AIRO AND THEIR AIM ARE AS FOLLOWS
 Extractor roller: This is present at enterance to m/c. It is made of stainless steel &
edged with rubber and serves to draw the fabric.
 Fedding Roller: It is present above the fabric guide frame, in cylinder form with its
special star shaped section. It lifts the fabric from the vat & sends it on its way
towards the ejectors.
 Squeezing roller: Two squeeze roller are placed one above the other inside vat after
the dragging roller, squeeze & guide the fabric before it enters the ejectors.
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 Wings: The width of the cord of fabric inserted between the squeeze rollers is
maintained bya pair of wings in each channel. The distance between wings is changed
by the relative sliding action of the two pairs of bars.
 Ejectors tube: The fabric inside the m/c is pulled forward through an ejector tube
provided for each channel. It is possible by causing air flow at high sped.
 Chemical tank: In this tank, chemical solutin is preapared which is required for
finish.
 Filter pump: It is used to filter a water and remove any fluff present ia water.
PARAMETERS OF MACHINES:
No. of channels: 4
Threading of each channel: 78kg
Air flow:
For shirting: 60-70%
For bottom weight: 80-85%
RECIPE FOR ENZYME WASH:

Enzyme : 1.5- 2.0gpl
Acetic acid : 0.5gpl
pH : 5-6
PROCEDURES:
 For Enzyme wash:
LOADING
↓
WET WITH WATER AT 53°C
↓
ENZYMES
↓
RUN FOR 45min AT 53°C
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RUN FOR 10min AT 70°C
↓
DRAIN
↓
WASHING WITH COOL WATER
↓
DRAIN
↓
DRYING
↓
UNLOADING
 For Dry Airo:
LOADING
↓
TREAT WITH COOL WATER FOR 20min
↓
DRAIN
↓
SQUEZING
↓
STEAMING FOR 15min AT 102°C
↓
DRYING
↓
UNLOADING
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5.CURING MACHINE
As a name suggest, this machine is used for curing of finish fabric and for contamination of
polyester/cotton blend.
This is mainly used for curing of:

 Easy to iron(ETI) finish
 Cotton nylon cure (CTNCF) finish.
In this curing is done in Hot Flue chambers. In this temperature is created by therming coils.
In the end, cooling cylinders are used to cool, the fabric.
THE MAIN PARTS OF CURING AND THEIR AIM ARE AS FOLLOWS

 Cloth roller: This roller adjust the width of fabric.
 Guide roller: These rollers guide the fabric and adjust the tension in fabric.
 Hot flue Chambers:This is most important part of curing machine. In this curing
is done. In this temperature is about 102°C.Her temperature is created by therming
coils.
 Colling cylinders: These are present at the end of machine. This is used to cool
the fabric before going to plaiter.
PARAMETERS:
No of Hot Flue : 2
Temp Of Ceach chamber : 102°C
No of rollers in one chamber : 20
Threading : 180meter.
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 For Easy To Iron:
Dwell time : 3 min
Speed : 60m/min
 For Cotton Nylon Cure Finish:

Dwell time : 2 min
Speed : 90m/min
 For Contamination:
Dwell time : 3.5 min
Speed : 50m/min
FLOW OF FABRIC IN CURING MACHINE
STITCHING
↓
HOT FUE CHAMBERS
↓
COLLING CYLINDERS
↓
PLATIER
6.CALENERING MAHINE
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Machine specification:
Name: calendaring
Company: Ramisich Guarneri
Manufacturing year: 2008
Voltage: 415v
Frequency: 50HZ
Nip pressure: 280N/mm
Speed: shirting: 40m/min
Bottom: 20m/min
This machine is mainly used to impart some soft and shiny appearance to the fabric.
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TECHNICAL SECTION
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TECHNICAL SECTION
The technical section is the heart of the production departmant, as all the process, control
parameters are monititored here,and also all the testings related to fabric and machinery is
done here. It has two labs,physical and chemical testing lab
 1. PHYSICAL TESTING LAB

Its main purpose is to check the quality of the fabric and to determine the effect of each
process the fabric is undergoig.
Some of the important test are conducted in the physical iab, to check the specific
properties of the fabric. The result of the tests decides whether the particular fabric has passed
the quality norms of mill.
Procedure For Different tests:
 EPI(Ends per Inch.) and PPI(Picks per Inch.):

 Take a 1” x 1” cloth sample after reveling.
 Then,start taking out threads , first wrap wise & keep on counting. This will give
ends/inch.
 Similarly measure the PPI.
 GSM(Grams per square meter)

 Cut the sample by GCM meter accurately.
 Weight of the sample is measured and it is multiplied by 100 to get the wt/m
 Random Tumble Pilling Tester

 Take four samples.
 Put it in four boxes of tester, each in one box.
 Start the iestrument for half an hour
 Compare with standard photograph and give rating
Note:- Standard rating =3
 DP Rating (Durable Press Rating)
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 Take sample size = 35 x 35 cm.
 Give 5 washes in washing m/c for 15 min. each.
 Dip in water and line dry.
 Compare with std. rating of cloth [1 to 5]
Note:- std. taken =3
 Perspiration Fastness
 Take sample size =4x8 cm.
 Dip the sample in perspiration solution for 30 min.
 Squeeze the samples
 Put them in perspiration testing instrument and place the whole assembly in the oven
 Line dry and compare the staining on white cloth with grey 6 scales
Note:- Std. Rating is =3
 Seam Strength
 Sample size to be taken =35x10 cm.
 Fold it and put a seam on it by putting the seam adjuster on 4 ½”
 Now fix it in tensile and seam instrument so that the seam comes in center between
the upper and lower jaw
 Set the tasting parameters
Note:- Std. for Shirting =70N
Std. for bottom weight =120N
 Crocking Fastness
 Sample size - 16 x16 cm. for coloured cloth
 - 5 x 5 cm. for white cloth.
 Take two sample in wrap direction , one for wet other for dry rubbing fastness. Place
the specimen cloth at the base and fix test cloth with fixture on the upperside
 Lower the finger and give 10 complete turns @ 1 turns/sec.
 Repeat for wet rubbing by dipping the test cloth in water
 Compare with grey scale and give rating
Note:-Std. Rating =3
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 Tear Strength
 Take two sample size of 10 x 6.3 cm. Each one in wrap wise direction and other in
weft directions
 Weights to be used differ with type of fabric.
 E.g. for light weight fabric =B & C wt.
 For bottom weight =D wt.
 First put the sample and mark the cut in centre with the help of left side rotator
 After making the in it , put the pressure by using desired wts. By pressing two buttons
at the base , both at the same time.
 Note the readings
 Standard:
For Wrap = 11.0 N
For Weft = 9.0N
Note:-- Instrument to be adjusted for single ply or double ply.
 Tensile Strength
 Take four samples size of 34 x 5 cm. Two for wrap and two weft
 Fix it in the instrument as :-
Upper side will get fix by pressing foot hold single time.
Lower side of sample will get fix by pressing foot hold two times
continuously.
 Now start for tensile strength measurement
 The tearing stops automatically as the value reaches its threshold
Note:-Std. For wrap =267
Std. For weft =156
 Crease Recovery Angle

 Take sample 5 x 2.5 cm.
 Put the sample in the loading device for 2.5min. under 10N pressure.
 Take it out and fit it in the CRA tester for 5 min.
 Take the reading for both wrap and weft
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Note:-value of the result should be the sum of the reading of wrap and weft>=230 for
the ETI finish.
 Shrinkage/Dimensional Stability
 Cut selvedge to selvedge
 Measure the initial width
 In between the sample two times with STD Scale 35 x 35.
 At the same time we can also mark for measuring torque. For this , fold the sample
selvedge i.e. put one selvedge on other. At the centre , put a mark on both sides.Wash
the fabric under std. washing conditions , compare the marking again.
Torque = (displacement*100)/width
 Now put the fabric in electrolux i.e. washing at 600 for 75 min. with 1 spoon
detergent.
 After that washing measure the potential width

 Dimensional Stability:--
(Initial width – Potential Width) X 100
__________________________________
Initial width
Note Std =_+3%
 Stretch Recovery (For Lvera Fabric)
 Sample size : 35 x 5 cm.
 Mark in between 20 cm( L0 )
 Put the weight of 1 kg on fabric and leave it for one hour.
 After one hour take for reading (L1) i.e. measure 20 cm again and see how much it
has stretched.
 Take reading (L1’) again , 30 sec. , after the weights.
 3rd reading (L1”) is to be taken after 1 hr of removal of weights
Stretch Recovery
After 30 sec = ( L1 – L1’) x 100
______________
L1 – L0
After 1 hr = ( L1 –L1”) x 100
____________
L1 –L0
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 MACHINES IN PHYSICAL LAB
S.NO NAME OF MAKE PURPOSE SAMPLE PARAMETERS
M/C SIZE
1. ELMATEAR James h. To te 10cm X Load applied
heald&co.ltd
tearing strength 6.3cm Above40s-b(16 n)
England Above30s-c(32 n)
Below 30s-d(64 n)
SCORCH Atlas To Check the 10mm X 5mm Temp: 180-200deg.c
TESTER sublimation Time 15 sec
Fastness
3 ICI PILLING James h. To Check the 12.5cm No of cycles for
TESTER heald&co.ltd Pilling fastness X12.5cm woven
England fabric- 18000
knitted fabric- 7000
4 NU – James h. To Check the Dia –3.8cm
MARTINDAL heald&co.ltd pilling / abrasion
E England fastness
5 AATCC Atlas To Check the 10cm X 1cm

CROCK rubbing fastness
METER
AATCC 66 James h. To find the crease 40mm X Weight 50 n
heald&co.ltd recovery angle 15mm Time 5 min
England
7. C1 4000 Atlas To Check the 7cm X 14cm Time 21.5 hrs
colour fastness (Warp Light source
direction) U.V.rays
8. STRENGHT James h. To Check the Before Electronic gauge type
TESTER heald&co.ltd tensile strength & raveling 30cm tester
England slippage X 5.5cm.
After raveling
30cm X 5cm.
9. SEAM James h. To Check the the 35cm X 10cm Electronic gauge type
SLIPPAGE heald&co.ltd seam slippage (weft tester
TESTER England direction)
10. LAUNDRO Atlas To find the
METER washing fastness
11. WASHING Whirlpool To give detergent Any Temp 60deg c
M/C wash Time 70 min
Conc. 2 gpl
12. DRYER Electrolux To dry the fabric Any
wascator
13. HYDRO Stefab To extract the
EXTRACTOR (vertical) water from the
washed fabric
14. HYDRO Stefab To extract the
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EXTRACTOR (horizontal) water from the
washed fabric
15. HYDRO Vaishno To extract the
EXTRACTOR (horizontal) water from the
washed fabric
 2. CHEMICAL LAB:
The various tests performed in the chemical lab are as follows:

 Testing of Chemicals
 Testing of dyes.
 Testing of Auxilires
 Testing of water
 Testing of Utilities
 Testing of Size Content in fabric
 In case of chemicals, percentage purity of chemical is checked.
Procedure For Different tests:
 NaOH
 Accurately weight 0.1 to 0.2 gm sample in conical flask
 Add 50 ml of distilled water.
 Add 2-3 drops of phenolphthalein indicator.Titrate it against 0.1 N HCl sol.
 End point is colorless.
 To purity of NaOH (w/w) =
Eq. wt. of NaOH×N. of HCl ×BR ×100
________________________________
Wt. of sample 1000
 NaClO2 (Sodium Chlorite):

 Accurate weight 0.1 to 0.2 gm of sample in conical flask.
 Add 2 gm. Of potassium iodide
 Titrate it against 0.1N sodium thiosulphate solution
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 End point is colorless.
 To purity of NaClO2 =
Eq. wt. of NaClO2 × N. of Na2SO3 × BR 100
_________________________________________
Wt. of sample 1000
 HCl
 Add 2-3 drops of phenolphthalein indicator.
 Titrate it against 0.1 N NaOH solution
 End point is pink color.
 To purity of HCl(w/w) =
Eq. wt. of HCl × N. of NaOH × BR 100
_____________________________________
Wt. of sample 1000
 H2SO4
 To purity of H2SO4(w/w) =
Eq. wt. of H2SO4 × N. of NaOH × BR 100
_____________________________________
Wt. of sample 1000
 H202
 Titrate it against 0.1 N KMnO4 solution
 To purity of H2O2(w/w) =
Eq. wt. of H2O2 × N. of KMno4 × BR 100
_____________________________________
90 | P a g e
Wt. of sample 1000
 HCOOH
 End point is pink color
 To purity of HCOOH(w/w) =
Eq. wt. of HCOOH × N. of KMno4 × BR 100
_____________________________________
Wt. of sample 1000
 Acetic Acid (CH3COOH)

 To purity of CH3COOH(w/w) =
Eq. wt. of CH3COOH N. of NaOH BR 100
_____________________________________
Wt. of sample 1000
 In case of Dyeing following are checked:-
 Purity of dye.
 Dyeing procedure
 pH of dye.
 Nature of dye.
 In case of Auxilires following are checked:-

 pH of auxilires.
 Solid Content.
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 Activity percentage.
 In case of Water following are checked:-
 pH of water
 Hardness
 Alkalinity
 Total Dissolved Content
 Chloride in water
3. PILOT PLANT
Pilot plant is the heart of the technical section.This is the most critical section as it governs
the shade to be produced in the bulk. The main aim of the pilot plant is the shade prediction
and this is done by following:
 Color Library
 CCM (Computer Colour Matching machine)
 Practical Experience.
. The shade matching is done manually from the data bank and if some unknown shade is
ordered that is not there in the data bank then the people from the pilot plant determine the
recipe manually. Generally this is done with experience and the people from pilot plant are
seasoned people with expertise in shade matching. Generally for a required shade two to
three lab dips are made which are then send to the ordering company for approval after whose
approval the shade is run on bulk.
THE MACHINES AVAILABLE IN THE PILOT PLANT ARE AS
FOLLOWS:
S.NO MACHINES NO.OF MAKE

MACHINES
1. AUTO LAB TWO IK TECHNORAMA AND
DISPENSER COPOWER DESPENSING
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2. COMPUTER ONE DATACOLOR
COLOR INTERNATIONAL,ENGLAND
MATCHING
MACHINE
3. PADDINMG THREE MATHIS,SWITZERLAND
MANGLE
4. DRYER TWO MATHIS,SWITZERLAND
5. PAD STEAMER TWO MATHIS,SWITZERLAND
6. HT-STEAMER ONE ICHIKIN,JAPAN
7. THERMOFIX ONE MATHIS,SWITZERLAND
8. SOAPY THREE MATHIS,SWITZERLAND
DYEING CARRIED OUT IN THE PILOT PLANT:-
There are basically three type of dyes used here
 Reactive dyes
 Vat dyes
 Disperse dyes
 REACTIVE DYEING:-
The dye liquor and the NF are dispensed using the auto-dispenser in the required
concentration, The auxillaries are added manually in the dye liquor. Reactive dyeing is
carried out by any one of the following methods:-
1. Pad chemical method
2. HT-steaming method
3. E-contro method
 Pad –Chemical method:
 Padding
In thechemical method the fabric is padded with the following chemicals:-
S.NO. CHEMICAL CONCENTRATION

1. Dye Xgpl
2. Sanspol AMC 20gpl
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3. Commmon salt 7.5gpl
4. Resist salt 3gpl
5. Metaxil WCD 2.0gpl
6. Alcosperse AD 1.0gpl
7. Acetic Acid 0.2gpl
 PADDING CONDITIONS:
Nip pressure : 2bar
Speed : 1m/min
Padding temperature : Room temperature
 Pre drying conditions:
IR DRYER
FOR BOTTOM WEIGHT : 100 %
FOR LIGHT WEIGHT : 100 %
TIME IN THE DRYER

FOR BOTTOM WEIGHT : 1.25 MIN
FOR LIGHT WEIGHT : 1 MIN
SPEED OF MACHINE
FOR BOTTOM WEIGHT : 0.5m/min
FOR LIGHT WEIGHT : 2m/min
 Developing
In this stage fabric is padded with developing chemicals for the fixation fo dye on a fabric.
The chemicals for developing of dye are:

1. Common Salt 250gpl
2. Soda ash 20 gpl
3. NaOH 13.5 gpl
4. Resist salt 5.0 gpl
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PARAMETERS:
Temperature : 102°C degree celcius

Time : 1 min
Speed : 3m/min
Steam pressure : 1.8 bar
First Washer temp. : Room Temperature
Second Washer temp. : 60°C
Winding Tension : 15-20psi
 Soaping
Soap : 2 gpl
Temperaturee : 90 degree celcius
Time : 2 minutes
 HT-STEAMING PROCESS
 Padding:
In the HT- STEAMING method the fabric is padded with the following chemicals:-

1. Urea 50.0 gpl
2. Sanspol AMC 20.0 gpl
3. Soda Ash 20.0 gpl
4. Resist salt 5gpl
 Padding Conditions
Nip pressure : 2kg/cm square
Speed : 1m/min
Padding temperature : room temperature
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IR DRYER
TIME IN THE DRYER

FOR BOTOOM WEIGHT : 1.25 MIN
 HT-STEAMING
Both dry as well as wet saturated steam are used in the HT-STEAMER.
PARAMETERS:
Drive Speed : 87.7 m/min
Steam blowing pressure:
High : 0.15
Low : 0.35
Dwell Time : 3 min
 Soaping
Soap : 2 gpl
Time : 2 minutes
 E-CONTROL PROCESS
 Padding:
In the E-CONTROL method the fabric is padded with the following chemicals:-

1. Metaxil WCD 20.0 gpl
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2. Sanspol AMC 20.0 gpl
3. Acetic acid 20.0 gpl
4. Resist salt 5gpl
 Padding Conditions
Speed : 1m/min
Padding temperature : room temperature
 E-Control
In this saturated steam and air combination is used for developing and drying of fabric.
PARAMETERS:
S.NO. PARAMETER REACTBOND& CIBACRON
REMAZOL DYES DYES
1. R.H 30% 25%
2. Dwell Time Shirting 2.0min Shirting 2.0min
Bottom 3.0min Bottom 3.0min
3. Air Temp. 120°C 120°C
4. I.R Mode B B
 Soaping
Soap : 2 gpl
Time : 2 minutes
 VAT DYEING
PROCESS SEQUENCE IN CASE OF VAT DYEING
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 PADDING CONDITIONS
Speed : 1m/min
IR DRYER
FOR LIGHT WEIGHT B : 100 %
TIME IN THE DRYER

FOR LIGHT WEIGHT: 1 MIN
 Developing
In this stage fabric is padded with developing chemicals for the fixation fo dye on a fabric.
The chemicals for developing of dye are:

1. Common Salt 45gpl
2. Hydro 25 gpl
3. NaOH 30 gpl
This recipe is for 0-10gpl shade.
PARAMETERS:
Mangle pressure : 1bar
Temperature : 102°C degree celcius
Time : 1 min
Speed : 3m/min
Steam pressure : 1.8 bar
First Washer temp. : Room Temperature
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Second Washer temp. : 60°C
Winding Tension : 15-20psi
 Soaping:
Soap : 2 gpl
Time : 2 minutes
 DISPERSE DYEING
Padding The sample chosen for the disperse dyeing is a p/c blend.The solution is
dispensed using the auto-lab dispensor.
 PADDING CONDITIONS

Speed : 1m/min
IR DRYER
TIME IN THE DRYER

 Thermosoling:-
The fixation of the disperse dyes is carried out using thermofixer.the conditions for the
thrmosol fixation are as follows:-
Temperature:-210 degree celcius
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Time :-90 seconds.
 REDUCTION CLEARING:

Reduction clearing of P/C is done to remove the dye from the cotton part.it is carried out
using conditions depending upon the depth of the shade.
INSPECTION AND FOLDING SECTION
After finishing the fabric is supplied to the inspection and the folding section .In this section
the finished fabric is first inspected on the inspection table and then it is folded according to
the lot size and is packed.
The fabric inspection report may include the following defects:
Sr.No. Defects Sr.No Defects

1. Count variation 55. Unmended
2. Slubs / neps 56. Slubby weft
3. ¾ ply yarn 57. Uneven weft
4. Thick thin places 58. Weft distribution
5. Knot/bullets 59. Shade variation
6. HTY 60. Color stain
7. LTY 61. Oil stain
8. Low mix up 62. Rust stain
9. Wrong end 63. Insect stain
10. Uneven yarn 64. Selvedge cut
11. Parallel yarn 65. Deep pinning
12. Twist variation 66. Handling stain
13. Snarl 67. Width variation
14. Griddle 68. Dyeing creases
15. Stain 69. Crease or fold
16. Griddle yarn variation 70. Hole
17. Contamination 71. Dry mark
18. Cocked yarn 72. Abrasion mark
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19. Short pick 73. Oxidation mark
20. Starting mark 74. Color patches
21. Reed mark 75. Stitch marks
22. Design cut 76. End marks
23. Temple cut mark 77. Platting marks
24. Less pick 78. Slippage
25. Wrong denting 79. Shade of
26. Wrong end drown 80. Gradation
27. Wrong pattern 81. Poor soaping
28. Float-fuci 82. Finish variation
29. Missing end 83. Singeing mark
30. Loose end 84. Poor rubbing
31. Tight end 85. Water mark
32. Cross end 86. Blower mark
33. Lashing end 87. Sanding lines
34. Bad selvedge tuck 88. Rubber marks
35. Shiner 89. Choke marks
36. Rapture 90. Poor whiteness
37. Weft bar bumping 91. Uneven luster
38. Jala 92. End to end tail
39. Section mark 93. Poor strength
40. Double end 94. Pilling mark
41. Loose weft pick 95. Clip marks
42. Thick place 96. Stop marks
43. Wrong end 97. Patta
44. Loom stain 98. Chemical stain
45. Loom abrasion 100. Drop stain
46. Mending mark 101. Fluff stain
47. Stitches 102. Slough off
48. Sizing patch 103. Shining
49. Let off 104. Weft not removed
50. Take off 105. High twist yarn
51. Jar king 106 Fluff mark or stain
52. Double pick 107. Loom abrasion
53. Broken pick 108. Bowing
54. Broken pattern 109. Wrong end drawn
In the fabric inspection report the frequency of the occurrence of all theses faults is
mentioned. Each fault mentioned in the table carries some specific points and the customers
or the dealer decides the tolerance limit regarding the occurrence of points.
Fault point system
Length of the fault No. Of points it carries

0------ 5 cms. One point
5------10 cms. Two points
10-----20 cms. Three points
Above 20 cms Four points
101 | P a g e
From the inspection report, the points/100 meters are calculated and are compared against the
points/100 meters provided by the customer. If the inspection reading is below the standard,
the fabric lots goes for cutting and folding otherwise it is sent for reprocessing.
PRODUCTION PLANNING & CONTROL

The main aim of PPC is production and control of products for production, quality and nature
of product, which is necessary.
FUNCTION OF PPC :
 ORDER commitment: first of all the party place order to the company about the
quality and quantity of products.
 PLAN: the company plans all the products of the party.
 PRODUCTION: According to the plan the party ordered fabric is processed in
various department starting from preparatory to finishing
 DISPATCHING: After production of the products the production department
dispatches the product to the party.
FLOW OF FABRIC IN WHOLE PROCESS
Marketing
Product planning control
Pilot plant
Production
Quality Control
Folding
Dispatching
102 | P a g e
EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT
Here Waste water before draining outside the plant is first tested for the following:
 BOD (BIOLOGICAL OXYGEN DEMAND)

 COD (CHEMICAL OXYGEN DEMAND)
 TDS (TOTAL DISSOLVED SOLID)
 TSS (TOTAL SUSPENDED SOLID)
Actually, pollution board of India has set certain standards for the above written parameters
and every waste material has to meet these standards. To meet these standards every waste
going out from the industry is given certain treatments, these treatments are called effluent
treatments and the plant where these treatments are given is called EFFLUENT
TREATMENT PLANT (ETP)
103 | P a g e

TRAINING Report For College

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TRAINING Report For College

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INDUSTRIAL TRAINING

Submitted By: Manas Ranjan

I am extremely grateful to management of Vardhman group for giving

Manas Ranjan Mohapatra

Today the following industries are related to Vardhman group

 Vardhman Spinning & General Mills Ltd. (Ludhiana)

SALIENT FEATURE OF GROUP CULTURE

AURO TEXTILES–AT A GLANCE

 100% Export Oriented Unit

 Auro Spinning mills

 VSGM 100 % Export oriented unit

 Auro Weaving mills

Auro Textiles has four major departments

 Personnel & IR Department.

The main aims of greighsection are:

The machine is used to examine the following things:

IN PREPARATORY SECTION FOLLOWING MACHINES ARE USED:

Sr. No. MACHINE NO. OF MACHINES MAKE

4. PTR ONE Sando Iron Works,

New Perble has following three sections:

MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS OF SINGEING

 Name: osthoff singe

SAILIENT FEATURES OF SINGEING MACHINE

Following are the parts of singeing machine:

 EXPANDER ROLLERS: They are provided on the singeing machine to remove

PARTS OF WASHING SECTION AND THEIR MAJOR FUNCTIONS:

Washing range consists of following parts :

DESIZING AND SCOURING

 DESIZING: The purpose of desizing is to remove size paste used in sizing by

The main processes that occur during scouring are as follows: -

 Unsaponifiable oils and waxes are emulsified

FOLLOWING ARE THE PARTS OF COMBINED DESIZING AND

 Nip pressure: 1.4ton

CHEMICALS USED IN SATURATOR AND THEIR FUNCTIONS ARE :

 SODIUM PERSULPHATE: It is an oxidative Desizing agent. The biggest

CONCENTRATION OF NaOH USED FOR DIFFERENT FABRIC

S.No. Fabric Type NaOH conc. Gpl

SETTING POINT NaOH CONCENTRATION (gpl)

Parts of reaction chamber-A

 BOILING BOX: There are following parts in boiling box:

SPECIFICATIONS OF REACTION CHAMBER-A

Capacity of reaction chamber : 6.5 to 7 ton

For P/C blend: For changing over the recipe from

PARAMETRS ABOUT THE WASHING RANGE OF SECTION B:

WATER NIP ROLLER

1st From CRP 85 2 TON 20-50 KGF

2nd From CRP 85 2 TON 20-50 KGF

3rd From CRP 85 2 TON 20-50 KGF

5th Soft water R.T 5 TON 20-50 KGF

ADVANTAGES OF USING PER-OXIDE BLEACH:

S.No. CHEMICALS STRENGTH CONCEN. FUNCTION

2 Caustic Soda 70% 5 g/l for Cotton Maintains pH

3 Serrix 2UDI Standard 1.5 g/l Chelating agent

4 Sifam Standard 2g/l H2O2 stabilizer

SETTING POINTS FOR NaOH

SET POINTS NaOH CONCENTRATION (gpl)

SETTING POINTS FOR H2O2

. SET POINTS H2O2 CONCENTRATION (gpl)

SPECIFICATIONS OF PEROXIDE REACTION CHAMBER FOR NEW PERBLE

Stock solution volume in liters = GLMTotal length0.65/1000