Class -2

Preparatory process of Weaving:

Weaving is the most popular technique of fabric manufacturing. In case of weaving, two sets of
yarn are required to produce a fabric. One is warp, which runs along the length of the fabric and
the other is weft, which runs along the width of the fabric. Warp yarns are usually stronger and
more compact than the weft or filling yarns. Yarns as manufactured and packaged are not actually
suitable for direct use to form fabrics. It is necessary to prepare it to be handled efficiently during
fabric formation.

In order to make the warp yarns aptly prepared for that, they require extra and more elaborate
preparation. The weft yarns in contrast, are subjected to far less stresses in any type of weaving
system and are thus, easily prepared for the weaving process. Moreover, the feed package of weft
yarn for weaving, pirn or cone, is made from the single yarn whereas, the warp beam is made from
a few thousand warp ends. Therefore, the preparations of the warp and weft yarns for weaving are
significantly different and the preparation of warp beam demands more precise and uniform
control of tension of all the constituent warp yarns.

YERN PACKAGE AFTER SPINNING

* Flow chart of yarn from spinning to weaving

There are three main steps of weaving preparatory process:

1. Winding
2. Warping
3. Sizing

Without these process Drawing-in and Tying-in are also done in weaving process.

Winding process:
The first stage of weaving preparatory process is winding, where the yarn, warp or weft spun in
the spinning process is wound to make a suitable package for the next processing. The yarn from
the spinner’s package called ring tube or bobbin, produced in the ring spinning, is transferred
into a cheese, cone or spool depending on the requirement at the next stage of processing. Winding
is, thus, primarily the transfer of yarn from one form of package to another but, under proper
tension and in proper manner, as illustrated in
Winding Process Image-1

Winding Process Image-2

 Winding Process Manual Image-3

Creel After Winding Image -4

• There are three types of cone –

1. Close Winding Cone (Warping)

2. Increasing Tapper Type Cone (100) (Knitting)
3. Little Tapper Type Cone (50)
Objects of winding:

1. To transfer yarn from one package to another suitable package, this can be conveniently used
for weaving process.
2. To increase the efficiency of yarn for the next processes.
3. Removing objectionable faults present in yarn contained in the supply package like
hairiness, naps, slabs, foreign matters.
4. To clean yarn.
5. To increase the quality of yarn.
6. To get a suitable package.
7. It is used to reduce end breakage.
8. To store the yarn.
9. Building a package of suitable dimensions compatible with the downstream processes.

The fundamental difference between weft winding for shuttle loom and warp winding is the
relative sizes of the feed and delivered packages. In case of weft winding a fairly large feed package
like cheese or cone is used to produce a comparatively small delivered package like pirn, while in
case of the other, the feed package, ring tube or bobbin is very much smaller than the delivered
package, cheese or cone. However, if the delivered package of weft is made for shuttleless looms,
then the large package like cone is used straightway.

Warping process:
After finishing the yarn winding, selected cones are transported to next process, i.e. (Latin id est, or
'that is) warping. Warping is an essential weaving preparatory process in weaving mill. This is a
very common say about warping, “good warping finishes fifty percent weaving. As indicated in
Flow Chart, while the preparation of weft for shuttle looms ends with pirn winding after the normal
winding, preparation of warp proceeds to warping following winding. From here onwards, many
warp ends are processed together to produce a warp package in the form of a beam, which in
warping is the warpers’ beam. Required number of cones of warp yarns is placed on the creel and
the yarns are wound side-by-side under uniform tension to produce a large parallel wound beam.
Each warpers’ beam is required to contain as much yarn as possible and hence, each beam has to
be prepared hard and compact (except however, those for dyeing). Although any type of yarn
package can be used on the creel of the warping machine, the cone is the most suitable for high
speed operation because of the reasons stated earlier.
Warping Process Image-5

Warping Process Image -6 (Making Pre Beam)

Objectives of warping:
The major objective of warping is to prepare a warp sheet of desired length containing a desired
number of yarns that are wrapped on a flanged barrel in such a manner that tension in each yarn
and density of yarn mass in the cylindrical assembly are maintained within a given tolerance level
throughout the wrapping of the warp beam which can be used for sizing or next process. The
process of warping is dedicated to the conversion of cones into a beam of given specifications.

Sizing or slashing process:

Warp yarns are used to supply on looms where warp threads are subjected to repeatedly occurring
various stresses like cyclic strain, flexing, and abrasion. These unavoidable stresses cause frequent
warp breaks which consequent in the form of loom stoppages and finally, efficiency loss and fabric
faults come in account. To minimize these problems, warp yarns are needed to be sized.

Warp yarn sizing is an essential process to coat warp yarns with elastic film and bind fibers of
yarns and lowering fluff or hairiness so that the yarns may become so strong that they can resist
the mechanical strain in weaving process, and/or maintain or improve weaving efficiency. In other
words, sizing is done to provide a protective coating and to lubricate the surface of the yarn to
enable it to withstand the abrasive action which occurs in the weaving process. These facts define
that the sizing process is very important for a successful woven fabric manufacturing.

Final preparation of the warp beam for weaving is carried out in slashing or sizing process.
Depending on the total number of warp ends required for weaving, one warp beam is prepared
from a number of warpers’ beam. Although many of the faults of the warp yarns are removed
mainly at winding and perhaps to some extent at warping and the qualities of the yarns are thus
much improved, the yarns are not yet good enough to withstand the rigorous abrasive actions at
weaving. This is taken care of at slashing or sizing, where the abrasion resistance of the yarns in
addition to their strength is increased and their hairiness is reduced by applying a protective
coating that is, size, on them. Slashing process consists of five main working zones as indicated in
simple diagrammatic form in. Polyvinyl alcohols (PVOH or PVA) and starches are both chemical
agents widely used for warp yern sizing.

Objectives of sizing:
The main objective of sizing is to form a uniform layer of protective coating over warp yarn and lay
down protruding fibers that project out of its surface (Figure 4).
 Unseized & Sized yarn Image -7

Other objectives of sizing are as follows:

1. To increase the strength of yarn

2. To get the required number of ends
3. To cover the hairiness of yarn
4. To make yarn surface smooth and pliable.
5. To maintain flexibility in yarn
 Important Note:
We think every pre beam has 100 ends of yarn but to complete fabric width we need 800 ends of yarn. Then
we have to use 8 pre beam to make final or warp beam.

54” Cutable width (total warp yarn has 800)

We can see total process from below link.

https://youtu.be/9KT5aWXS7LU
Drawing-in and Tying-in:
Drawing-in is the process of providing each end with a drop wire, a heddle in the proper harness
and a dent in the reed. In short it is the process of threading each end through the drop wire,
heddles and the reed.

Tying-in is merely the cutting-off of the old warp and the end-to-end tying of the yarns from the
new beam to the corresponding warp yarns already in place on the loom. This operation generally
occurs at the loom. When the mill is producing long runs of the same fabric, tying-in is most
prevalent.
Weaving preparatory process plays major roles in achieving the desired performance at weaving.
Ultimate packages of warp and weft yarns prepared at these stages are used as the feed materials
for looms, where the yarns are unwound during the course of weaving. How best the yarns can be
unwound from their respective packages depend on how best the packages have been prepared at
the various preparatory processes. Requisite shape and size of a yarn package needed for a
given type of loom can be prepared if the yarn is wound under optimum tension with as little
variation as possible. Too low winding tension will result in soft packages and cause irregular
withdrawal of the yarns while, too high winding tension will destroy much of the extensibility of
the yarn and make the yarn vulnerable to breakage. The qualities of the feed materials for weaving
have become even more stringent after the introduction of the high speed shuttleless weaving
machines, which with relatively small depth of shed, demand greater uniformity in tension of all
the warp yarns and smooth withdrawal of the weft yarn from its package for faultless insertion. It
may therefore, be said that properly prepared warp beams and weft packages assure half the
desired performance of a loom.
Weaving Procedure

You can see complete weaving process in this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NIt9SGk55b4
WEAVING

What is Weaving:
Weaving is the process of fabric manufacturing by interlacing two sets of yarn one is called the warp
and another weft. The process begins with the creation of a warp, which is made up of two or more
threads that are twisted together to form the foundation for the weaving.

Classification of the Weaving:

Basically, there are three types of weaving in the Textile Industry. Such As;
1. Plain weave.
2. Twill weave.
3. Satin weave.

There are few Fancy weaves such as pile, Jacquard, dobby, Basket, and leno for such kind of
construction we required more complicated or special looms.
Plain Weave:
Plain weave is known as the most common & simplest weaving, where the weft yarn alternately pass
over & under the warp yarn.

There are different types of plain fabric in the textile industry. All types of plain weave fabric
descriptions are given below;

1.Flannel: This woven fabric can be made using plain or twill weaves. Flannel can be brushed
on one side or both sides which are called napping. Flannel fabric is familiar with the feeling of
warmth, Hairy surface & softness. Below Image for the Flannel fabric;
2. Chiffon: Chiffon is a plain weave fabric that is thin, airy, rough feel, stretch, strong, sheer.
The sheer fabric can be woven from various textile types, both synthetic and natural, like silk,
nylon, rayon, or polyester. Below Image for Chiffon fabric;
3.Organdy: Organdy is a fine, sheer plain weave fabric that is woven from cotton.
Characteristics for Organdy, completely made from silk, stiff, matte look. Organdy is often used
for bridal gown, night dresses, curtains, and aprons.

4.Muslin: Muslin is a loosely-woven cotton fabric. It’s made using the plain weave
technique. Muslin is made from cotton, but not all cotton is muslin. It usually has a regular
weave, is non-stretchy, and isn’t blended with anything else, like silk or viscose.
5.Buckram: Buckram is a plain-weave fabric that can be loosely woven or tightly woven.
The stiff, coarse material is most commonly used for making book covers, hats, shoes and other
protective area like fusing .

6. Cheesecloth: Cheesecloth fabric is a plain-weave fabric that chefs use as a tool in the
making of cheese. The fabric’s loose weave allows liquid to strain easily through it.
 7. Poplin: Poplin fabric is a plain weave fabric with very fine yerns. This fabric is used for
shirts,pyjamas, women’s wear including dresses and tops, sportswear, rich upholstery and also as
a fabric in decorative items like frames and wall hangings. Poplin fabric is easy to maintain and
does not wrinkle easily.

8. Chambray: A chambray is a plain weave fabric woven with a colored yarn in the warp
and a white yarn in the weft.
9.Velvet: Velvet is made on a special loom known as a double cloth, which simultaneously
produces two velvet pieces. This luxurious fabric can be woven in any weave structure (plain,
satin, or twill) with an extra set of warp threads that are sheared to create a soft feel. Due to its
softness, velvet is sometimes used in bedding, blankets, womenswear & Kidswear.
10. Taffeta: Taffeta is made using the plain-weave technique, which has a single weft thread
going over and under a single warp thread. Taffeta fabric is a stiff, shiny fabric usually made with
silk or polyester. Commonly used in wedding gowns, evening wear, blouses, party attire, curtains,
sleeping bags etc.

11. Crêpe: This fabric can be woven from any weave structure (plain, satin, or twill). Crêpe
has a rough, irregular texture due to specially twisted or crimped yarns. Commonly used for
scarves, shawls, dresses, eveningwear, hats, mourning wear, high fashion, curtains.
12.Georgette: Georgette is a type of crêpe fabric that is typically made from pure silk but
can also be made from synthetic fibers like rayon, viscose, and polyester Georgette is typically a
plain weave fabric woven using tightly twisted s-twist and z-twist yarns, which are yarns twisted in
opposite directions. These twists create slight puckers on the fabric’s surface.

13. Cambric: Cambric is a finely woven plain-weave fabric rolled and flattened at high
temperatures to create a smooth finish. It is known as batiste. Its common uses include various
ready-made clothes like gowns, shirts for men, tops for women, dresses, and other garments.
14. Oxford: Oxford cloth is a very popular shirting fabric, particularly for more casual or sporty
styles of dress shirts. It’s a bit thicker than what we’d consider “fine” dress shirt fabrics, and has a
hearty feel that is both durable and naturally resistant to wrinkles. Oxford cloths can be found in a
variety of qualities

15.Voile: Voile is a soft, sheer fabric, usually made of 99% cotton or cotton blended
with linen or polyester.Because of its light weight, the fabric is mostly used in soft furnishing.Voile
fabric is a perfect dressmaking option for summer because it is lightweight, breathable and semi-
sheer.
16.Linen. Linen is one of the most widely used fabrics and it comes directly from the flax plant.
Known as a strong, durable, and absorbent fabric, linen is almost always found and used as a fabric
for bedding because it’s soft, comfortable, and it dries much faster than cotton – making it an ideal
fabric for people who sweat when they sleep.

17.Seersucker: The term seersucker refers to a specific type of cloth that's light, durable, and
comfortable. To be considered seersucker, a fabric must be puckered (that is, it has a crinkled
texture). This fabric is typically made from 100% cotton, though some tailors have introduced silk
stripes.
18.Cherry: Cherry fabric made by cotton, polyester silk etc which shows slightly transparent.

19. Canvas. Canvas is a compact, firm, heavy plain weave fabric usually made with
cotton. The terms canvas and duck are used interchangeably. Canvas is commonly used for
the pants, jackets, Bags, upholstery covers, backpacks, handbags, shoes.
20. Pongee Fabric: Pongee is a woven fabric and it is a complete medium weight
fabric as well. This is wild silk fabric and it is used for fine warp yarns. This is naturally
colored and lightweight fabric. Several garment manufacturers are using this fabric to make
beautiful dresses like blouses, clothes, umbrellas, Coats suits, jackets etc.

21.Ripstop Fabric: Ripstop fabrics are woven fabrics, often made of nylon &
polyester using a reinforcing technique that makes them more resistant to tearing and
ripping
Thanks To All