1. Vortex yarn has a two-part structure: a core surrounded by wrapper fibres.

The number of wrapper

fibres compared to the fibre core is higher compared to the air jet spinning. During yarn formation, the
leading ends of the fibers are directed towards the yarn core and the trailing ends wrap around the core
fibres.

 Less shrinkage of fabric: Due to structural difference the shrinkage problem is very less in the
fabric of vortex yarn.

 Better evenness of fabric: In the VORTEX yarn after drafting, the fibers passes through the air,
through the jet nozzle, the most of the short fibers wrapped around the parallel long fibers, this
results in even yarn & ultimately the even fabric.

 Better life of fabric: VORTEX yarn have high degree of resistance for pilling, so can bear much
more number of washings with out deteriorating the fabric quality & life.

Advantages in post spinning process

 Sizing: The even and deeply penetrated sizing, because of better absorption property, results in
better efficiency at loom and less consumption of sizing material also. The low hairiness surface
of VORTEX yarn also results in better loom shedding, ultimately the less breakages and the
better efficiency, even with the slightly low strength.

 Singeing: Singeing may be avoided or is needed in less amount. Speed of singeing machine
instead of 600 m/min can be increase up to 1300m/min.

 Stitching: As the VORTEX yarn have less spirality problem and good resistance against
deformation, which make it ideal for stitching of fabric.
http://www.muratec-vortex.com/vortex01.html

2.Types of selvedge designs

 Plain selvedges

 Tape selvedges: Tape selvedges are made of heavier yarns or ply yarns, which provide greater
strength.

 Fused selvedges: These selvedges are made on fabrics of thermoplastic fibres, such as
polypropylene, nylon, etc., by pressing a hot mechanical element on the edges of the fabric. The
fibres melt and fuse together, sealing the edges.

 Leno selvedges: The leno selvedges are obtained by binding the wefts with strong additional
threads working in leno or gauze weave and by eliminating through cutting the protruding weft
ends. Half cross leno weave fabrics have excellent shear resistance.

 Tucked-in selvedges: In tucked-in selvedge, the fringed edges of the weft yarns are woven back
into the body of the fabric, the weft density is doubled in the selvedge area.

3.Automatic drawing in machine

Staublis SAFIR S30 automatic drawing-in machine is a drawing-in machine that travels along the
stationary warp beam as it draws the filament yarn into the healds and reed.

 High drawing-in rates. The drawing-in capability exceeds 2,00,000 ends per 24 hours.

 Filament warps with or without lease and with a warp density exceeding 100 yarns per cm can
be drawn easily.
4. Sheet bend: The name "weaver's knot" comes from its historic use in textile mills. Even in modern
operations, weavers are taught to use this particular knot when correcting broken threads in the warp.
In practice, weavers are taught to be able to tie the knot in as little time possible, with the mean average
being no more than three to five seconds

5.Warp Stop-Motions

Warp stop-motion stops the loom in the event of an end break. The system is activated by the
lightweight metallic drop wires which have profiled shape. The large slot at the top is for the movement
of the reciprocating bars which are used in both mechanical and electrical warp stop-motions.

Figure: Drop wires

 In case of mechanical warp stop-motion , one reciprocating bar moves between two stationary
bars. The bars have profiles like step waves. The sideways movement of the center bar is equal
to the width of a step. In case of an end break, the drop wire will lose support from the tight
yarn and will fall due to gravity. If it falls to the lowest possible height, then the reciprocating
movement of the center bar will be affected and the loom is stopped.

 In case of electrical stop-motion, the drop wire acts as an element that makes or breaks an
electrical circuit. In case of warp break, the drop wire will complete an electrical circuit and
 activate a solenoid. The solenoid will attract a bar which will be hit by the knock-off lever.

Figure: Warp stop-motion on a loom (BSL Ltd.)

6. Melange Yarn:

Melange yarn is a blend of different colored fibers to develop various shades in the yarn. Different in
ratio of fibers in the blend alters the uniqueness of spun melange yarn.

 Blended Mélange Yarn: yarn in which different fibers are mixed/blended together in a certain
fixed ratio for instance PC (Polyester: Cotton blend) 50:50, PV (Polyester :Viscose) 80:20,
CV(Cotton :Viscose) 60:40.

 Non‐Blended Mélange Yarn: Yarn in which there are no different fibers blended together, but
different colored fibers of same type are used to make the yarn e.g. 100% cotton dyed yarn.

Advantages of Melange Yarn:

 Environmental: Dyeing fibre before spinning, thus can keep its energy saving, emission reduction
and environmental protection.

 Fashion: Melange yarn can present multiple colours on one single yarn, which gives it rich
colours, slenderness and tenderness. Textile made of melange yarn has a certain ambiguous
cyclical effect.

Problems In Making Melange Yarn:

  Shade variation

 Variation in ratio (esp. in PC/PV/CVC) yarns

 Spots in the fabric

Application of Melange Yarn:

Melange yarn is widely used in warp and weft knitting machines, various V-bed knitting machines, and
winding machines, etc. Melange yarn is applicable to underwear textile, casual wear, sportswear, shirts,
business suites, socks and all sports of cloth products, as well as bed lines, towels, decorative fabrics and
other home fabrics products.

7.Carding section:

Carding is the one of the most important process in spun yarn manufacturing, because it determine the
quality of yarn. This is the process, by which fiber are prepared to manufacture a yarn. In this process,
fibers are opened at almost single, removal of dust, trash, neps and short fiber to produce a continuous
strand of fiber called sliver. Carding machine is called mother or heart of spinning, because it prepares
the fiber in such a way, which is ready to manufacture yarn because disentanglement, cleaning and
intermixing of fiber are happened here.

Objects of carding:

 Opening and individualization of fibers.

 Elimination of remaining impurities that are not removed in blow room.

 Reducing neps of fiber.

 Fibre mixing and blending.

 Elimination of short fibres.

 To produce a thick sliver.

Carding machine mainly consists of feeding unit, taker-in, cylinder, doffer and a set of revolving flat-bar.
The surface of taker-in, cylinder, doffer and flats are clothed with pin or wire.

Product of carding machine:

The product of carding machine is called sliver. Sliver is a thick untwisted continuous rope of fibers,
which is uniform in weight per unit length and suitable for subsequent process. The English count of
card sliver is 0.1-0.14

Cleaning efficiency of carding machine: 80-90%

Draft necessary at carding machine: 80-120

Production per carding machine: 30-70 Kg/hr

Recent development
  Metal detector

 Auto leveling

 Continuous suction

 Electronic control system and display necessary quality report.

Passage of yarn on Autoconer:

Tensioning Device: Tension is applied on yarn on the basis of its strength. Weight washers of
different weights are there.
Slub Catcher: It breaks the yarn whenever there is any thick or thin place.

Stop Motion: It stops the winding drum whenever the yarn breaks.

Grooved cylinder: Give passage to yarn on package.

Weft Mixing:

 When a uni-color yarn fed from a single package, more or less apparent weft barriness
are produced on fabric surface.
 This is due to the variation in yarn count, colour, tension or weft density.
 In uni-color weaving, filling is supplied from at least two or more packages for the
production of some plain fabrics.
 The individual picks are regularly alternated.
 This is called weft mixing.

Weaver’s Knot:
 Warping calculations:

Important Formula of Warping Calculation in Weaving:

1. Length of warp,
= Weight in pounds/ Number of ends,

Or,
Weight of warp in pound × count × 840
=……………………………………………………….. (Yds)
Number of ends

Or,
Weight of warp in pound × count
=…………………………………………………….. (Hank)
Number of ends

2. Total length of yarn in the warp,

Length of warp × No. of ends
=………………………………………………
840

3. Weight of warp in pounds,

Length of warp in yds × no. of ends
=……………………………………………………
840× count

Or,
Length of warp in yards × number of ends
=…………………………………………………………
Count of yarn

4. Number of ends in the warp,

Count × weight in pounds × 840
=………………………………………………
Length of warp in yds

Or,
Count × weight in pounds
= …………………………………………
Length of warp in hanks

5. Count of warp or beam count,

Length of warp in yds × number of ends
=……………………………………………………
840× weight in pounds

Or,
Total length of yarn on the beam in yds
=……………………………………………………
840× weight in lbs

6. Time required in hour,

 Total length of warp to be produced in yds
=………………………………………………………………………..
Actual production in yds per hour × number of machines

7. Total length of warp to be produced in yds,

= Length of warp in yds required per beam × No. of beams per set × no. of sets

Examples of Warping Calculation in Weaving:

Example-01:
Calculate the total number of ends on back beam which weighs 242 pounds. The weight of
empty beam as indicated from the marking on its flanges is 62 pounds. The count of the yarn is
40s cotton and the length of warp on the beam is 14000 yds.

Solution:
Here,
Yarn count= 40s,
Length of yarn in yds= 14000,
Weight of yarn in pounds= (242-62) =180 pounds,
No. of ends in warp=?

So,
Number of ends in the warp,
Count × weight in pounds × 840
=…………………………………………
Length of warp in yds
40×180×840
=………………………
14000
=432

So, number of ends in the warp is 432.

Example-02:
Calculate the beam count of the yarn on a set of 6 slasher beams, each of which contains 525
ends of 120000 yds at a weight of warp on back beams is 12000 pounds.

Solution:
Here,
Length of warp in yds= 120000,
Weight in pounds= 12000,
Number of ends= (525×6)= 3150,

So,
Beam count,
 Length of warp in yds × no. of ends
=…………………………………………………
840× weight in pounds
120000×3150
=………………………….
840×12000
= 37.5s

So, beam count for this warping calculation is 37.5s

FABRIC COST
calculating cost of a fabric.
PRICE OF A FABRIC
1) raw material cost
2)weaving cost
3)processing cost
4)yarn dyeing cost
5)packaging cost
6)greychecking cost
7)excise and other duties cost
8)machine and land depreciation cost
9)man power cost
10) power and water cost
11)profit

Calculating the price of a given Fabric

At any given instance lets assume the basic costing of Shirting fabirc.

Lets assume any Basic construction just for example .

The Below sort is just a hypothetical sort .

Warp - 2/80 s cotton dyed yarn .

Weft - 2/100 s cotton dyed yarn .

Ends per Inch = 130

Picks per Inch = 90

Fabric Width = 40 inches

Normally its given the Finished Width .

Calculating the weight of a Fabric .

Warp weight for any given Flat woven fabric is

= (Total on of Ends x Total Mtrs x Wastage percentage x Warp Denier ) / 9000,000

Therefore for the above sort

Total Ends = Fabric Width x Ends per Inch x Shrinkage Percentage.

Normally cotton shrinkage is 8% - 10% .

Total Ends = 40 x 130 x 10%

= 5720 ends of 2/ 80 cotton dyed yarn .

Warp weight = 5720 x 100 x 8% x 40 / 9000,000

= 2.7456 kgs

Weft weight for any given Flat woven fabric .

= Total mtrs x reed space x picks per inch x wastage % x denier of weft/ 9000000

= 100 x44 x 90 x 1.08 x 50 / 9000,000

= 2.376

Therefore

Fabric weight = Warp Weight + weft weight

= 2.7456 + 2.376
= 5.1216 kgs for 100 mtrs

RAW MATERIAL COST OF FABRIC

Yarn cost of warp and weft is to be known .

Suppose the Warp yarn Cost is 5 usd / kgs

and the weft is 7 usd / kgs .

then the cost of Fabric per 100 mtrs

= (2.7456 x 5 ) + ( 2.376 x 7 )

= 13.728 + 16.632

= 30.36 usd / 100 mtrs .

PRICE PER MTRS = 0.3036 USD / MTRS .

FINAL COST OF FABRIC

BASIC COST =( RAW MATERIAL COST + INVESTEMENT COST )

FINAL COST = BASIC COST + PROFIT AS PER BASIC COST.

ASSUMING INVESTMENT COST/MTRS IS 30 CENTS

AND PROFIT @ 30%

= (0.3036 + 0.30 )

= 0.6036 USD / MTRS

= 0.6036 + 30%

= 0.78468 USD / MTRS

FINAL PRICE = = 0.78468 USD / MTRS.

PRODUCTION CALCULATION FOR WEAVING LOOMS

Weaving Calculation for weaving looms differ from different types of machines .But the Basic calculation
remains the same .

Factors which effect the production are only two main things .

1) RPM (Revolution per minute ) of Machine .

2) Weaving Efficiency .

What is 100% production of any given machine in terms of picks .

= RPM X WORKING HOURS X 60

RPM means that for every revolution of the motor one pick inserted .
60 signifies the conversion factor of hrs to minutes .

For example :- My machine runs at 600 RPM for a shift of 24 hrs .

Then the Total Picks inserted for the day

= 600 x 24 x 60

= 864000 picks

Therefore at a given day at 100% efficiency 864000 picks are inserted .

Length of fabric(in inches): Total picks / PPI