Driblet Guide 20230510

DISCLAIMER
The information in this guide is subject to change without notice. Rock

climbing (in any format) is an activity with a very real risk of SEVERE
INJURY or DEATH and there have been climbing fatalities in Hong
Kong.
Users of this guide should be aware of the risks involved, and be
responsible for their own actions. As with any high-risk activity,
participants should seek qualified instruction commensurate with the
nature of the climbing they wish to undertake.
The publisher and author of this guide do not accept any liability
whatsoever for injury or damage caused to (or by) climbers, third
parties or property arising from its use. Neither the publisher nor
anyone involved in the publication of this guide can be held
responsible for mistakes or omissions arising from the use of this
guide.
You climb at your own risk and are therefore the sole judge of
conditions.
If in doubt, do not climb.
ACKNOLEDGEMENT
Thanks to Jo Tang for the many days of hiking up and belaying to get
the FAs done in time.
Thanks to Francis Haden for permission to use his disclaimer message.
Cover photo by Jo Tang.
Donation
The development cost of the crag is over
HK$16000. If you enjoy the crag, please
consider donating to help cover some of the
cost for the community, it would be greatly
appreciated.
Contact
Email: [email protected]
Instagram: chong.siu
Have fun and be safe!

General
As one of the most impressive pieces of rock on Kowloon Peak, it’s
surprising to see so little development on it since a few trad routes
were put up over half a century ago. During the spring of 2023, 19
sport and 3 trad routes have been developed. From improbable-
looking slabs to intricate side-pulls to big dynos, this crag will keep
most entertained for more than a few visits.
Condition
• The wall faces South-West, so
it’ll be in the sun from around
noon onward. Base of the wall
stays mostly shaded by trees.
• Route 1,2,3,15,16,17 can seep
and dries slowly after rain.
Others dry quick in general
Hardware
• All sport routes equipped with
316 SS glue-ins and 316 SS
Rings or Rams Horn for lower
off.
• Trad route anchors are bolted
Hazards
• Few of the routes are quite
long, knot the end of you rope
to be safe.
• Mosquitos can be quite
aggressive especially on the
approach Close view of
Gradient Ascent.
Miraculously
climbable through
micro features
Approach
From the west entrance of Good Hope Primary School, walk up Jat’s
Incline for about 270m to enter a wide obvious path (1) on the right.
Go up the roughly pathed steps to a terraced area with a few boulders
scattered across. Continue generally uphill to reach a truck-sized
boulder (2) that’s covered partly with thick tree roots.
Go right of the boulder and follow the path along a dry streambed for
about 10-15 minutes, scrambling up a few sets of boulders along the
way. A diversion off the dry streambed to the right up a steep dirt
slope (3) will appear. Go up this dirt slope with the aid of a series of
hand lines to reach the top of the mountain ridge (4) and the view
opens up.
Follow the obvious footpath on the ridge towards the crag for about 5
minutes to reach a rock face (5) just below the crag. Turn right and
continue for another 15m to another series of handlines (6) on your
left. Pull up the handlines to reach the base of the crag (7).
The crag can also be reached following the Majestic Slab approach and
going a bit further, but it takes significantly longer time.
(3) (5) (7) Driblet
Outcrop
(6)
(4)
Majestic
(2) Slab
Approach time from (1): 20 – 35 mins

(1)
Google Map Link:
https://goo.gl/maps/mqTjSJ2N678jmEgS6
Routes
Note: Old trad routes not shown because I can’t figure out from old guidebooks about how
those routes actually goes precisely…
1 Child’s Hill – F6B ☺☺ T1 Trinitite – VS 4C ☺

26m – 13 Bolts 10m – Trad
Rick Siu, 5-Mar-2023 Rick Siu, 14-Apr-2023
4 Trinity – F6A ☺☺
2 Insecure Canyon – F6B+ ☺☺
10m – 5 Bolts
27m – 16 Bolts
Rick Siu, 14-Apr-2023
Jo Tang, Rick Siu, 5-Mar-2023
Good warmup route
3 Grown-Up Mountain – F6C+ ☺☺ 5 Teller-Ulam – F6C ☺☺

28m – 18 Bolts 12m – 6 Bolts
Rick Siu, Jo Tang, 5-Mar-2023 Rick Siu, 5-Mar-2023
Routes
6 Ivy Mike – F7B+ ☺☺☺ 10 Gradient Ascent – F7A ☺☺☺
Rick Siu, 18-Mar-2023 Rick Siu, 22-Mar-2023
Side pull + bad feet = good climbing Star of the Crag. Blank AF looking wall
is surprisingly climbable
7 MAD! – F7C ☺☺☺ 11 Gradient Ascent(low start) – >F7A

Rick Siu, 17-Apr-2023 Open Project
Clip the 4th bolt of Ivy Mike extended Adds a much harder section of slab
then break right to climb the strenuous below the original. Start from standing
diagonal crack line on the good foot hold around 2m
below and slightly left of Radiation
Sickness’s anchor
T2 Arkhipov – HVS 5A ☺☺
21m – Trad 12 Radiation Sickness – >F7C
Rick Siu, 14-Apr-2023 12m – 9 Bolts
Start from the ledges just right of the Open Project
crack.
Bouldery, shouldery, and powerful. Go
solve it!
8 Meh – F6B
16m – 8 Bolts 13 Demon Core – F6A+ ☺
Rick Siu, Jo Tang, 22-Mar-2023 8m – 5 Bolts
A meh but crucial route to access the Rick Siu, Jo Tang, 22-Mar-2023
gems above
T3 Tickling the Tail – E4-ish
16m – Mixed
9 Sunlit Silence – F7A+ ☺☺☺ Open Project
26m – 15 Bolts Climb Demon Core and continue to
Rick Siu, 13-Apr-2023 immediately face the crux. Difficulty is
Use the first 3 bolts above the ledge about HVS/E1 without the
anchor as aid(stepping included) to get disproportionately hard crux, so worth
above the vertical section and begin aiding through the crux to climb the
climbing on the slab beautiful crack above.
Routes
14 Surly Bonds – F6B ☺
12m – 7 Bolts
Rick Siu, Jo Tang, 18-Mar-2023
Access route for route 15-19
15 I Am, I Wonder – F7B ☺☺

19m – 13 Bolts
Stay centered or left of the bolt line for
the lower slab for purer slab climbing
and the full grade, but climb however
you like, it’s all meaningless anyways.
16 Paperclip Maximiser – F7A+ ☺

19m – 12 Bolts
Rick Siu, 18-Mar-2023
17 Mortal Meatbag – F7A ☺☺☺

18m – 12 Bolts
Rick Siu, 18-Mar-2023
18 Brace! Brace! – F7A+ ☺

16m – 11 Bolts
Chalking up 19 Burning Blue – F6C ☺☺

to tackle the 16m – 10 Bolts
final bits of
Ivy Mike Rick Siu, 12-Apr-2023

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DISCLAIMER

The information in this guide is subject to change without notice. Rock

Have fun and be safe!

Approach time from (1): 20 – 35 mins

1 Child’s Hill – F6B ☺☺ T1 Trinitite – VS 4C ☺

3 Grown-Up Mountain – F6C+ ☺☺ 5 Teller-Ulam – F6C ☺☺

7 MAD! – F7C ☺☺☺ 11 Gradient Ascent(low start) – >F7A

15 I Am, I Wonder – F7B ☺☺

16 Paperclip Maximiser – F7A+ ☺

17 Mortal Meatbag – F7A ☺☺☺

18 Brace! Brace! – F7A+ ☺

Chalking up 19 Burning Blue – F6C ☺☺

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