Hanging Mountain Copyright Protections

Guidebook Contributors
Ryan Stefiuk, Dolci Mascolo,Chris Beauchamp. All photos from Chris Beauchamp. Additional input from: Pamela
Matsuda-Dunn, Olga Mirkina, Rob Sullivan, Jeff Squire, Tim Murdock, Jon LaValley, Shawn Sweeney, Kat Powers
Version
Nov 19, 2021 Version. Updates will be made regularly and placed on the WMCC website. Please do not use any of this
feedback for Mountain Project as this is being made available for free and can be regulated for Justice Diversity Equity
Inclusion components by the WMCC and has copyright . Please share input about routes
at:tinyurl.com/RouteFeedbackHangingMountain
Intro
Hanging Mountain is an east-facing mountainside in a relatively remote region of southwest Massachusetts and northwest
Connecticut. It has remained on many New England climber's radar, but prior to 2019 the property was privately held and
climbing was prohibited by the landowner. In 2019, the 14-acre mountainside was purchased by the Western
Massachusetts Climbers' Coalition (WMCC) with the assistance of the Ragged Mountain Foundation of Connecticut
(RMF) and the Access Fund. Since the land acquisition in Fall 2019, a small but dedicated group of volunteers from the
local climbing community have worked tirelessly to make Hanging Mountain a public venue for climbers and hikers.
Where and how to park at Hanging Mountain
Hanging Mountain is located at 43 South Main Street, Sandisfield, Massachusetts, just two miles from Connecticut in the
Farmington River Valley, and north of the Colebrook Reservoir. Parking is available on site and there is space for
approximately 35 cars. It is imperative that climbers park thoughtfully and do not park on the side of Route 8. IT IS
ILLEGAL TO PARK ALONG THE ROADSIDE ON ROUTE 8. A reserved spot will be held for emergency vehicles as well
as individuals with a handicap placard.
There is a small amount of overflow parking available across Route 8 on US Army Corps of Engineers property. This
extended parking can sometimes close. Call 860-379-8234 for more info.
Rules and Regulations
Hanging Mountain is privately owned by the WMCC and RMF. All users must abide by the rules set forth by the
organizations. Rules and regulations will be posted in the guidebook, on the WMCC website, and on the kiosk at the
trailhead for Hanging Mountain.
 Hanging Mountain is open dawn until dusk
 Parking on Route 8 is illegal and will not be tolerated.
 Park only in designated parking spaces.
 Stay on established trails and climbing routes.
 Dogs must remain on a leash and under the owner's control at all times. Consider leaving your pet at home.
 Pack out all human and dog fecal matter. It is not acceptable to bury feces.
Justice Diversity Equity and Inclusion
The Western Massachusetts Climbers’ Coalition works to build inclusive relationships with diverse advocacy groups, state
and local governments, landowners, and conservation groups to keep climbing areas open and accessible to climbers
from all backgrounds. Actions we have taken toward this goal:
 Reserved Parking Spot for those with a Handicap Placard (please display if parking in the spot)
 ADA porta-potty
 Signs with Visuals
 Visuals of Trail Heads
 Distances to each Crag listed
 Land Acknowledgement and Relationship Building
 Safe Space Signage
We are open to feedback about implicit bias in route names. If you have input on how to help you or someone else feel
more welcome and safe, please submit input at: https://tinyurl.com/SafeSpaceHangingMountain
We look forward toward continued growth in this area.
Things to Know
Hanging Mountain is a mountainside with approximately 10 separate crags. Not all of the rock at Hanging Mountain is
safe for climbing. Some sectors may never be opened to climbing, others will open only after wildlife surveys and risk
management assessments are satisfactorily completed. It is advisable that climbers wear helmets as much as possible.

It is hard to overstate the value of Hanging Mountain as a climbing area. Traditional climbers will want their 6" camalots.
Sport climbers will be set with sixteen draws, but carry two dozen quickdraws if planning on stringing together multi-
pitches. There is something for every climber and there's no shortage of unique granite-style features that will blast your
arms, make your fingers achy, and destroy the tips of your shoes. Cliffs are not top-rope accessible.

Climbing at Hanging Mountain requires both good judgment and strong technical skills. While many of the routes have
protection bolts, routes change features quickly and pass ledges along the way. The traditional climbing here is
challenging, with protection that can be difficult to spot and tough to place, especially under the duress of leading. Be
prepared to share a belay station with another group and know how to rappel from an anchor if it is denoted as a rap ring
anchor.

The climbs and climbing style found at Hanging Mountain are similar to Cathedral Ledge with its many short challenging
features, Cannon Cliff where loose, exfoliating rock and rock fall are normal, and occasionally feels a touch like the
traprock to the south in central Connecticut.
If you have feedback about routes, please use this form: tinyurl.com/RouteFeedbackHangingMountain

If you would like to get involved:

https://linktr.ee/climbgneiss?utm_source=qr_code

Using this guide

Red denotes a sport climb

Yellow denotes a traditional or mixed climb

SPACE
INVADERS
Space Invaders
A stone's throw to the left of the Cloud Buttress, Space Invaders offers some enjoyable bolted moderate climbing on
semi-chossy rock, most routes still have some loose sections. While there aren't any classics, there are many gems.
Expect busy crowds and be mindful of monopolizing climbs. Despite the moderate nature of the climbs and well-placed
fixed protection, falling on lead here isn't a good idea because most of the routes have ledges; this is not a great place to
push one's limits on lead. Please wear your helmet and do not climb above the lower-off anchors in this section of cliff.
The ledges above still have loose rock. Please respect rare plant habitat signage and cliff closure signage left of Space
Invaders. At this time the area left of Space Invaders remains closed, please respect property closures.

1. Kats in Seattle 5.11 **

Currently the leftmost line at Space Invaders. Follow
slopers and jugs past the left side of a low roof to gain
the large ledge shared with Cosmic Justice. From the
ledge hard stemming directly above leads past a bulge
and to the anchors
50 ft. Bolts. FA: Shawn Sweeney
2. Cosmic Justice 5.11- ***
Nice climbing with a challenging crux. Begin below the
obvious hanging arête that marks the crux of Cosmic
Justice. Follow slopey holds right of a low roof and gain
the large sloping ledge shared with Kat's in Seattle. From
the ledge hard climbing up and right with small footholds
leads to a good stance on the arête. The final section
crosses back over the arête at a giant wedged flake and
gains the water groove above.
50 ft. Bolts. FA: Shawn Sweeney

3. Free Ride 5.9 ***

In honor of Sally Ride. Begin at an obvious left-facing corner. Climb the corner past
two bolts to a ledge. From the ledge continue up shallow corners and face holds to
anchors on the right end of the vertical wall.
50 ft. Bolts. FA: Tim Murdock
4. Come What Mae 5.10a **
Named in honor of Mae Jamison. Due to the ledgy nature of the crux at the top of this climb, this isn't the place to push
the limits of one's lead ability. An awkward start past smaller holds leads to a small juggy overlap. Pass the overlap and
gain a water groove with moderate climbing. Follow the water groove past a tree to its end at a steep wall. Traverse
right using hidden holds and follow small face holds and features to the top (occasionally sharing a few holds with
Hidden Figures to the right). Do not climb above the fixed anchors.
80 ft. Bolts. FA: Dolci Mascolo

5. Hidden Figures 5.9 **

Named in honor of Katherine Johnson,
Dorothy Vaughan and Mary Jackson.
Follow cracks and grooves to a ledge
three quarters of the way up to a left-
facing corner capped by an overhang.
Stem the corner and reach right to gain
jugs and a hidden bolt. A few more
challenging moves lead past an
improbable vertical rib of rock. Please
use the lower-off anchors and don't
climb onto the ledges above in this
section of cliff.
80 ft. Bolts. FA: Dolci Mascolo

6. Nichelle's Dreams 5.9+ *

Named in honor of Nichelle Nichols. This
is the furthest right climb on Space
Invaders. Climb to a large ledge below a
right-facing dihedral. Stem your way up
the dihedral, occasionally stepping left.
Continue past more small bulges
weaving left and right to keep the grade
moderate. From the final ledge continue
up steep juggy rock to the fixed anchors.
Please do not climb above the fixed
anchors in this section of cliff, there is
abundant loose rock above and right.
80 ft. Bolts. FA: Pamela Matsuda-Dunn,
Brian Phillips
Cloud Buttress
The Cloud Buttress is a beautiful, steep wall of dark gneiss with a high concentration of
quality routes. Features on the ""Cloud"" are mainly thin and the majority of the climbing
here is 5.11 or harder. It contains bouldery climbing with rests between cruxes. The
approach trail meets the wall at its low point.
1. Copious Stone 5.7 **
Begin at the left-most uphill margin of the Cloud Buttress, on the same terrace as for Stone
by Stone. Climb the sharp looking off-width that cuts left midway up Stone By Stone. It is
possible to use the first few bolts of Stone by Stone to protect the lower portion of this
route.
50 ft. Single rack to #6. FA: Shawn Sweeney
2. Stone By Stone 5.8 ****
Begin on the far left end of the Cloud Buttress, in the large corner system. The
start is shared with Copious Stone. Classic moderate climbing leads up a white
granitic intrusion on a gently overhanging face. Beginning in the corner, gain the
gently overhanging face to the right and climb juggy rock to the top of the cliff.
50 ft. Bolts. FA: Shawn Sweeney and Kat Powers
3. Trouble Weighs a Ton 5.10+ ***
This was initially a gear-protected "5.10R". Fabulous juggy climbing and good
movement. Start midway along the left face of the Cloud Buttress, below an
obvious shallow right-facing corner. Climb the corner until its end. A bizzare move
past the overlap leads to jugs.
60 ft. Bolts. Equipped by Dolci Mascolo and Ryan Stefiuk
4. Transcendentalism 5.11- ****
Stick clipping the second bolt is
recommended. Start at the top of the
stairs on the left side of the main face
of the Cloud Buttress. Climb the
striking arête, past several cruxes. It is
possible to start lower down on the
right side of the arête for more
climbing.
70 ft. Bolts. FA: Rob Sullivan
5. Skywalker 5.12c ****
Start just downhill and to the right of Transcendentalism, using the same
terrace. Consider stick-clipping the second bolt. Boulder right, past a giant
wedged block (crux). Continue up the bulging face using hidden pockets (2nd
crux). Move slightly left up tenuous slab moves and corners to anchors.
80 ft. Bolts. FA: Jeff Squire
6. Fever Dreams 5.12 ***
Start at the left-most of three short features along the left side of the main face
of the Cloud Buttress. Climb a short, thin crack to a small cave. Move up and
left through the notch using either trickery or thuggery, and gain a ledge. From
the ledge, head up the steep face past three bolts to a dihedral and another
ledge. Charge up the overhanging crack or take the more natural (easier) line trending left, before making the final move
right to the anchors.
80 ft. Single Rack Cams Micro to #2. FA: Christopher Beauchamp
7. Benign Masochism 5.11 ***
The middle feature at the base of Cloud Buttress. a short open corner with a
single bolt. Boulder past the bolt to gain the ledge common to all the routes in
this section of the cliff. Trend left out the roof above, Follow the wide crack left
through the overhang and gain the ledge above. More face climbing leads to
another ledge and large V-shaped chimney above. Sloping features lead up the
right wall to the anchors.
80 ft. Single rack .3" to 5”. FA: Christopher Beauchamp
8. Cost of Admission 5.11 **
This is the right-most of three short features at the base of the Cloud Buttress.
Easily recognizable, this route begins where the approach trail from the parking
area meets the cliff. Bouldery climbing up an open corner past 3 bolts leads to a
ledge shared with the two routes to the left. Climb through the roof at a crack
with plentiful gear and continue up fun climbing to anchors at the end of the
crack.
80 ft. Single Rack .3" to 3”. FA: unknown
9. Drawn and Quartered 5.12 ****
Continuously technical with several cruxes including a hard boulder problem at
the highest crux. Begin on the ledge at the right side of the Cloud Buttress. From
the left end of the ledge climb a hanging left-facing corner to the right-slanting
ledge above (shared with Cloud Nine). A hard move left just above the roof
leads to a slabby scoop. Gain the ledge and slanting crack above. An iron cross
move leads to another stance up and left. Gain the final shield and make a
bouldery move (crux) to gain the final ledge. Stay cool and climb the final left-facing corner to the top.
80 ft. Bolts. FA: Ryan Stefiuk
10. Pillow Talk 5.11- ***
Technical and relentless. Well-protected traditional climbing with multiple difficult sections. Use the same start as Drawn
and Quartered. Boulder up to the left-slanting handcrack and gain the ledge (Cloud Nine crosses here). Follow thin
features past bolts to an overhanging finger crack. Battle the crack up to a
stance shared with Cloud Nine. Exit right into underclings then trend left
past a single hidden bolt. Continue up the face to the anchors.
80 ft. Single micro cams up to .3", double .3" to .75". FA: Christopher
Beauchamp
11. Cloud Nine 5.9 ****
Probably the earliest climb at the Cloud Buttress and an old-school classic.
Perhaps the best trad route of its grade at Hanging Mountain. Begin by
traversing left along the 3rd class (exposed) ledge at the right side of the
Cloud Buttress. From the end of the long traverse follow corners and cracks
up and right, aiming for the convergence of the two crack systems. Follow
the handcrack past a wild thread and up to the midway anchors. Lower from
midway anchors or continue to the top of the buttress (10b). It is possible to
use the Pillow Talk start in order to start lower and add more pumpy
climbing.
80 ft. Single rack to 3", extra .4" to 2". FA: unknown
12. Psychedelic Honey 5.12- ****
No shortage of compression moves on this one. An instant classic; fun and
hard. Begin on the right end of the main face, up a low-angle, blocky
groove. Stick clip the first bolt or stay right, closer to the hillside. Climb the
arête, encountering multiple cruxes along the way. Consider a knee pad for
the right leg.
80 ft. Bolts. FA: Tim Murdock
Acorn Face/Squirrel Wall
The Acorn Face, uphill and to the right of the Cloud Buttress, is the lowest pitch of
the Squirrel Wall. The Squirrel Wall above offers the longest climbs in
Massachusetts and Connecticut. This area is home to exceptional climbs up to
260' on fine-grained solid gneiss. Seasonal Peregrine Falcon closures are
possible here. The gully between the Acorn Face and Progressive Buttress is
closed. The Acorn Face is often shaded and the right end can stay wet.
1. Miasma 5.10 ***
On the left end of the Acorn Face. Begin on good rock just right of the gully. Ride
the arête, avoiding the chossy gully on the left. Strenuous moves up and right
lead to jugs. Follow amazing tufa-like jugs up overhanging rock to the anchors.
65 ft. Bolts. FA: Christopher Beauchamp
2. Pet the Rabbits 5.12 ***
Ride the subtle arête between the choss and perfect rock and you will be
rewarded with challenging, well protected movement. At the 4th bolt move up
and left into the scoop feature leading to a small roof. Powerful crimping busts
out right from the small roof (crux) to a stance and a final hard to decipher face
sequence.
65 ft. Bolts. FA: Christopher Beauchamp
3. Radiant Sky 5.10d****
Beautiful stone, thoughtful movement, good bolt placement
- one of a cadre of Hanging Mountain 5.10 sport routes that
are going to put the cliff on every climber's radar. Begin at
the toe of the Acorn Face. Follow three bolts up a steep wall
to a ledge (amazing jugs). A bizarre move left off the ledge
leads to fun climbing. A hard stand up move gaining the
upper portion of the face is the crux. Continue up and right
along small ribs to the anchor
65 ft. Bolts. FA: Dolci Mascolo
4. It Takes an Ankle 5.11+ *
Stick clip recommended. Awkward climbing past 3 bolts
leads to a ledge, Challenging thin climbing above the ledge
leads to shared anchors. This route requires an attentive
belay due to ledge fall potential above the ledge at mid-
height. Finish on the same anchors as the climb to the right.
60 ft. Bolts. FA: Shawn Sweeney
5. Ghost Buddy Heights 5.11+ ****
Great climbing on all three pitches, a masterpiece of
Hanging Mountain climbing with a crescendo at the top.
P1: 5.9 PG Begin below the obvious, left-trending arch.
Climb left along the arch, pass a bolt and gain the right-
facing corner. At the corner's end traverse left, passing a
second bolt just before gaining the ledge.
P2: Follow a finger-eating crack in a shallow left-facing
corner. As the corner rounds out continue up the face,
around a roof and up to a ledge. Slap up the right side of a
water groove and gain the anchors in a large scoop.
P3: Climb up and right following a thin crack in lower angle rock. Step up and right, and make thin moves up and left
(crux) the past several bolts. Gain the upper face and make challenging moves to the arête and up (second crux, insane
exposure) to the top. Lower or rappel to descend.
P1 65 ft.P2 75ft P3 80 ft Single rack to 3". FA: Jeff Squire and Rob Sullivan
6. Lost and Found 5.7 **
Cool Hanging Mountain rock features. Begin at a water groove at the uphill right end of the Acorn Face. Stem your way
up the groove to a ledge. A thin step right leads to another groove. Follow this feature to the anchors. Often wet, be
cautious.
50 ft. Bolts. FA: Dolci Mascolo and Ryan Stefiuk
7. Water from an Ancient Well 5.11a **
P1: Climb any of the Acorn Face routes to the Squirrel Wall ledge.
P2: 5.11a Start on the far left edge of the wall, climb past several cruxes to a bolt anchor above a good, narrow belay
stance. 70’
P3: 5.10b Follow the pillar above through a couple of overhanging sections to a good belay ledge with a bolt anchor. 85’
P4: 5.10b Boulder up on the left end of the ledge to a right leaning flake. Staying slightly right at the top keeps it at 5.10,
or take the hard slab straight on to add an 11+ crux. 35’
The climb can be done as a single pitch but rope drag and ledge fall potential make it safer and more enjoyable to break
it up. Descent: rappel the route. A single 60m rope will make it from the top to the P2 anchor. A 70m will NOT get to the
Squirrel ledge from the P3 ledge anchor.
P2 70 ft P3 85 ft P4 35 ft. Bolts FA: Jon LaValley
Progressive Buttress
The Progressive Buttress has great moderate, single-pitch sport climbing on featured stone. The cliff is generally shaded
and some routes tend to stay wet after a rainfall. DO NOT TOP OUT; the terrain above is CLOSED. In April 2020 there
was significant rock fall between the Grotto Wall and Progressive Buttress. The area between these two sectors is closed
to climbing. Additionally, climbers should not linger below the recent rockfall area. Expect crowds and be mindful of
monopolizing climbs.
1. Green New Deal 5.7+ **
The leftmost line on the Progressive Buttress. Follow a left-trending slab below a steep face to a left-facing corner. At
the corner top, traverse right onto the steep face and gain the juggy headwall to the anchors.
60 ft. Bolts. FA: Pamela Matsuda-Dunn
2. Nevertheless 5.8- ***
Nice climbing, perhaps the best of the moderate lines here. Climb the low angle ramp just right of Green New Deal until
the wall steepens. Continue up the steep face, staying right of a groove, and gain the ledge above. Continue up thin face
holds to a short overlap. Move up and left to gain the short left-facing corner (long runner or draw helpful here). Follow
this to the anchors.
65 ft. Bolts(7 to LO). FA: Dolci Mascolo
3. Feel the Bern 5.10 **
Toprope Only. This is the obvious
steep feature that starts at the toe of
the Progressive Buttress. The upper
portion of this line is quite close to
both Nevertheless and She Persists
and would feel like a squeeze job as an
independent line. Toprope off either
anchor after climbing..
65 ft. TR.
4. She Persists 5.8+ **
Nice climbing. Start just left of a
chimney formed by a detached block.
Climb inside the chimney and head left
onto the slab. Steep moves with
hidden jugs lead up the steep wall
above the slab. Step left over the final
bulge and up to the anchors.
65 ft. Bolts. FA: Dolci Mascolo
5. Allies and Accomplices 5.8 **
Start uphill, at the top of the terraced wall. Consider using a stick
clip on the first bolt. Climb into the chimney formed by the large
detached block. Using the line of bolts on the left, climb the steep
flakes and gain the ledge on the left. Hidden positive face holds
lead to the anchors.
55 ft. Bolts. FA: Dolci Mascolo
6. Not Me, Us 5.8 **
Start uphill, at the top of the terraced wall. Nearly a mirror image
of Allies and Accomplices, perhaps slightly harder. Consider using
a stick clip on the first bolt. Using the line of bolts on the right,
follow flakes up and right to the steep face and anchors.
55 ft. Bolts. FA: Ryan Stefiuk
7. Gneiss Bulge 5.11- **
Named for the obvious bulge, begin below a blunt arête on the
right side of the buttress. Nice movement follows sloping holds
up the face. Pass a small overlap, staying left of the arête to the
anchors.
50 ft. Bolts. FA: Shawn Sweeney
7a. Logical Progression 5.12c (unknown stars but looks amazing)
Pending Bolts. FA: Ward Smith
8. Beginnings End 5.10+ **
The last route on the wall before entering the recent rockfall
area. Interesting bouldery crux. Climb up a short shallow left-
facing corner until forced right into a right-facing corner (crux).
Follow the right-facing feature to the top of the face. Do not top out here. The area above is CLOSED. Do not linger to
the right of here; there has been significant recent rockfall.
50 ft. Bolts. FA: Kat Powers & Shawn Sweeney
Grotto Wall
The Grotto is often in full sun and provides a beautiful view of the
landscape if you climb the upper pitches. In April 2020 there was
significant rock fall between the Grotto Wall and the Progressive
Buttress. The area between these two sectors is closed to climbing.
Climbers should not linger below this recent rockfall area rockfall zone.
1. Rising Tide is Bolts 5.10c ****
Classic 5.10. Just to the right of the recent rockfall area, this climb is
worth your stop. Probably one of the most consistent climbs at HM,
the fun never stops. This highly featured climb starts on a left facing
flake. Follow the flake up and right using solid feet to span the
distance between good holds and the next flakes. Enjoy the slight
pump to the final moves. Stick clipping the first bolt recommended.
55 ft. Bolts. FA: Ryan Stefiuk
2. Higher Ground 5.10b/c ***
PG-13 Climb above the anchors on Rising Tide and belay from on the
ledge at 2-bolt anchor to the left. Climb the slightly loose left facing
corner until you reach a bolt, then move left past two more bolts.
Climb up and right to a flared thin crack. Follow the crack to a wedged
flake and enjoyable hand cracks that end in an aerial island-like belay.
Rappel or lower back to the ledge and rappel again to the ground. A
70m rope will NOT reach the ground from the upper anchors.
80 ft. Single rack, extra finger-size pieces. FA: Jon LaValley
3. Decision Paralysis 5.11c/d **
Boulder up past the 1st bolt to a stance, then angle right making thin
technical moves on small holds to the ledge that bisects the Grotto. Make another thin move off the ledge (tight belay!)
to gain good holds on the steepening face and some long pulls to the anchor.
60 ft. Bolts. FA: Adam Yarnell & Chris Beauchamp
4. Wholey Logic 5.11d ***
Good to great climbing on both pitches.
P1. 11d Stick clip and boulder up to a nice flake feature. Traverse right
along the ample features to a somewhat cryptic crux that, despite
initial appearances, works for a variety of heights. Hand traverse left
and gain the ledge for a rest before launching into strenuous
technical stemming and laybacking to another ledge. Follow a left-
facing corner to a bolt anchor at mid-height. All bolts.
P2. Climb the shallow right-facing corner past a bizarre wedged block
to a narrow ledge. Excellent face climbing leads up to a thin crack
which eventually widens to 5"" at the top. Lower back to the ledge,
and rappel to the ground. A 70m rope will NOT reach the ground from
the upper anchors.
140 ft. Light single rack of cams to 3"-4". FA: Ryan Stefiuk & Chris
Beauchamp
5. Indivisible 5.10a ***
Short but stunning hand crack (1” and 2”) on the right side of the
Grotto. Follow the crack to traverse left and into a splitter hand crack.
Jam your way to the top of the vertical crack and over a bulge to an
exciting exit onto a ledge where you can clip the anchors.
40 ft. Single rack, extra 1” and 2”. FA: Chris Beauchamp & Jeff Laggis
6. Disco Pants 5.8, 5.12 ***
Climb the bolted slab on the far right end of
the Grotto.
P1: Stick clip recommended for first bolt.
Follow bolts up varied rock on a steepening
wall to an anchor with rap rings. Shorter
climbers will benefit from an extended
connector.
P2: This pitch wanders right and left of the
blunt arête up bolts to the top on bullet hard
stone.
120 ft. Bolts. FA: Jeff Squire
7. Shakedown Street 5.10a ***
"Begin on a dirt ledge on the edge of the
large gully up and right of the P.1 belay
anchors for Disco Pants/Compass Rose. It is also possible to climb Butterfly Effect to the optional anchor and belay.
P2: Climb left-leaning fins following the rightmost crack Where the crack ends at a small bulge, step left (crux) onto a
clean slab and up much easier climbing to a bolted belay. A 70m rope will reach the ground from this upper belay.
120 ft. . Gear to 1 inch. FA: Rob Sullivan
8. Stagger Lee 5.8+ **
P2: Utilize the same start/belay station as Shakedown Street. From the belay, walk left right towards left leaning fins.
Climb the leftmost of the leaning fins, following a wide crack. Squeeze, struggle, and stagger up 20 feet of well-
protected, but strenuous offwidth climbing to a vertical section (crux). Scramble above the chock stone to find easier,
but wider climbing above. Make an exciting reach to a bolted belay. A 70m rope will reach the ground from here.
Climbers can leave the wide crack after the crux to join the bolt-protected finish of Shakedown Street. A 70m rope will
reach the ground from this upper belay.
120 ft. Single rack to 6", doubles 3" and 4" cams. Include a 5" and 6" as well as several long runners to sling chock stones.
FA: Rob Sullivan
9. Compass Rose 5.9 **
Don't shy away from this little treasure because of misgivings about rock quality, it is better than it looks. Begin on the
same terrace as for Mutiny and Disco Pants. Scramble up a short chimney past hollow blocks onto a ledge where the fun
begins. Follow the crack and corner until it is possible to step up and right past bolts and a
diagonal crack. From the ledge regain the corner on the left and follow it to another ledge
and the anchor shared with Disco Pants. on the left wall for protection, use the juggy hold to
angle up and right, passing another opportunity for protection in a seam. Continue up and
right on positive holds to a ledge and follow the bolts to an anchor with rap rings.
75 ft. Single rack to 1”. FA: Dolci Mascolo & Ryan Stefiuk
10. Mutiny 5.8 *
Start on the same terrace as Compass Rose. Mutiny climbs the blunt low arete at the far right
end of the Grotto. Stick clip recommended for first bolt. Angle up and right from the base of
the initial chimney of Compass Rose. Ascend the juggy face following bolts to the anchors.
50 ft. Bolts. FA: Dolci Mascolo & Ryan Stefiuk
Murdock Wall Follow slabby scoops up and right, past a thin crux near
Home to many sensitive plants, the Murdock Wall
the anchors.
requires careful attention to following rules and signage. 90 ft. Bolts. FA: Tim Murdock
Less than ideal paths protect sensitive vegetation and 6. Leprosy Trad 5.8 **
allow this wall to remain open. Please stick clip the first
P2:Begin at the top of the Invitation. Follow bolts on the
bolt on The Invitation and tread softly. This cliff is usually
shaded in the morning and late afternoon. left, skirting the right edge of the tree island. Step left
along a ledge. Follow flakes up and right through an
1.The Butterfly Effect 5.10a **
overlap to gain a shallow dihedral. At the top of the
On the far left end of the Murdock Wall, follow bolts to
dihedral step right and follow the bolted slab to an
climb a truncated pillar to an optional anchor. Traverse
anchor shared with Living on Steroids.
left and climb straight up the line of bolts above,
75 ft. Single rack to 1". FA: Tim Murdock
crossing a large hueco and overlaps to the anchor. A
few long slings recommended. 7. Living on Steroids 5.9 **
100 ft. Bolts (12 to LO). FA: Shawn Sweeney P2: Begin at the top of the Invitation. Follow the right
line of bolts up a steep face past sloping features (crux).
2. Papillon 5.9 ***
Leaders should use caution here due to the rope line
P1: Start on the left side of the Murdock wall at the
crossing the climbing route (in order to not have a leg
base of a 20’ pillar in a right facing corner. Climb the
caught behind the rope during a fall). Gain the large
corner and clip the a bolt at the top to keep the rope
ledge and right facing corner. Follow the left edge of the
out of the crack. Move left up flakes passing two more
big corner until it is possible to step left. Continue up
bolts. A challenging move leads to thin cracks and
the steep face left of the big corner and join the bolted
thoughtful protection. Continue up the cracks and gain
slab shared with Leprosy Trad
a ledge and anchor on the right.
70 ft. Bolts. FA: Tim Murdock
P2: Above the first pitch anchor, climb toward and use
the right edge of the roof above. Pull onto the ledge and
8. Ring Neck 5.6 **
follow the granite cracks up and left. Move into the
P2: Short pitch starting from the anchor of the
chimney to the anchor. To descend rappel twice.
invitation taking the left bolt line along the edge of the
75ft, 80ft. P1 mixed, P2 Trad, Single rack with a double
treed ledge then traverses right to gain the ledge and
3" or bring a 4”. FA: P1 Tim Murdock, P2 Shawn
anchor at the base of the final right facing corner.
Sweeney
P3: Go up the corner passing bolts in the chimney and
3. Leprosy Arête 5.10c/d *** continuing up cracks to the anchor right of the top of
Begin at the top of P.1 of Papillon. Follow pitch two of the corner. Trad FA: Tim Murdock (more info to come)
Papillon until it steps left onto the slab. Instead, climb
up and right through a bulge and gain the arete above.
Follow the sharp arete to a finger crack on the left.
Lower or rappel twice to descend.
75 ft. Gear. FA: Tim Murdock
4. Full Murdock 5.3
Stick clip required for this climb. After the first bolt, use
protection to follow the easiest line to the anchors
visible from the ground.
30 ft. Mixed. FA: Tim Murdock
5. The Invitation 5.10b ****
Stick clip required for this climb. Classic climbing up a
steep, featured slab. Begin just to the right of Papillon.
Easy climbing up and right leads to a ledge. From the
ledge continue up and right to gain a shallow right-
facing corner. At the end of the corner climb up and left
along an overlap. A large step left leads to a small ledge.
Trailheads