J/24

TUNING AND
HOW-TO GUIDE

1
PHOTO BY CHRIS HOWELL
 WHILE THE SAIL SHAPES HAVE NOT CHANGED ALL THAT
MUCH, J/24 SAILING HAS UNDERGONE DRAMATIC EVOLUTION
IN THE PAST TWENTY-FIVE YEARS. THIS EBOOK PROVIDES
INFORMATION ON PREPARATION, QUANTUM’S SAIL TUNING
AND TECHNIQUE, AND OTHER HELPFUL TIPS TO MAKE SURE
YOU’RE READY TO MEET YOUR CHALLENGE IN TODAY’S
COMPETITIVE J/24 FLEETS. IT REPRESENTS TWO DECADES
OF ACCUMULATED KNOWLEDGE AS PASSED DOWN TO AND
REFINED BY THIS GENERATION’S BEST J/24 SAILORS.

THERE IS NO MAGIC ELIXIR FOR PERFORMANCE. IT’S THE SUM

OF INCREMENTAL GAINS. IN A GAME OF INCHES, AN EXTRA 1%
HERE AND 2% THERE WILL ADD UP, PROVIDING YOU WITH THE
DIFFERENCE CRITICAL TO SUCCESS. IN THE END, THOSE SMALL
PERCENTAGES WILL GIVE YOU THE EDGE NEEDED TO SUCCEED.

AS YOU READ THIS GUIDE, KEEP THIS IN MIND: A 1% INCREASE

IN SPEED (FROM 5 TO 5.05 KNOTS) OVER A 10-MILE COURSE IS
EQUIVALENT TO SEVEN SECONDS PER MILE, OR 1.2 MINUTES
OVER THE COURSE.

2
TO THE
NEXT
CHALLENGE.

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 TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S

6 BOAT PREPARATION
8 STEPPING & TUNING
10 CREW TASKS
12 MAINSAIL TRIM
13 GENOA TRIM
15 JIB TRIM
15 SPINNAKER TRIM
16 HOW TO PREP FOR A SIGNATURE REGATTA
20 TIPS FOR BUILDING YOUR J/24 CREW
22 REGATTA ORGANIZER
24 RACE-DAY CHECKLIST
26 QUANTUM CLASS EXPERTS

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5
 J/2 4

BOAT PREPARATION
This is well-trodden, but critical ground. The great thing about being prepared is you don’t have to be a
four-time intercollegiate all-American to seize the advantage. The primary goal of preparation is to create
weather helm in light-to-moderate conditions to improve the boat’s upwind performance. The secondary
goal is to reduce drag, which helps on every leg of the course.

Preparing the boat can be broken down into four sections: bottom, keel, rudder, and mast. If you race your
J/24 without optimizing each of the four parts of the boat, it’ll be as advantageous as racing a car with three
wheels. If you race your J/24 in less than 10 knots of breeze without paying attention to these four areas, you
will get that mushy, sick, feeling of leeward helm.

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BOTTOM RUDDER
The operative words here are smooth and fair. Class rules specifically say
There are five things to check for:
that you can remove factory imperfections, but you cannot modify hull
shapes. In other words, you can fill to fix voids and hollows, but you can’t 1. Minimum length
grind gel coat. Use battens to check fairness, and sand with long boards. 2. Minimum thickness*
3. Minimum weight (total minimum weight including hiking stick,
One area that will need special attention is the center seam, particularly tiller and rudder is 13.5 kilograms)
from behind the keel to the transom. This seam is typically uneven and 4. Trailing edge should be as thin as allowable.
not very smooth. Wet or dry sailed, a hard finish paint must be used so
5. Rudder should be parallel with the transom of the boat.
wet sanding is possible. We’ve known boats to be dry-sailed with a VC
Underwater Epoxy wet sanded up to 600 grit sandpaper. For boats kept *Be careful: if you fair too thin (particularly on boats manufactured prior to 1986),
in the water, Interprotect 2000 barrier coat has proven to be a good they can break. New rudders take less fairing but tend to be heavy. Once again,
templates are required. The final product should be sanded to a 600-grit finish.
alternative. Either way, wet sand to 600 grit.

Regardless of what you cover the bottom with, you need a hard, sandable
MAST
finish. A great bottom (including keel and rudder) can easily have two There are three goals in this department: minimum length and mast
hundred hours of labor in it. butt forward to induce and create rake; spreader angle to control
mastbend and match mainsail luff curve; light and clean. To meet
KEEL these goals:

There have been several changes in opinion about what the best keel · Shorten mast to within 3 mm of class maximum*
shape is. Instead of guessing, we had the keel shape reviewed by Nelson/ · Set headstay length at class maximum*
Marek. His recommendations affirm what has become widely accepted. · Set spreader deflection at 155 mm**
The keel should be: · Remove extra jib halyard and foil system (older masts)
· Maximum forward at the top and at station #4 · Remove windex entirely, or replace with dinghy version
· Maximum permissible chord length and maximum depth · Remove steaming light and all electrical wiring
· Minimum thickness
*Refer to class rules for lengths and methodology. Confirm with a class measurer
if possible.
Templates are required to get the keel right. While newer keels are better,
the process usually involves cutting area from the trailing edge and **Our AP main is designed with less luff curve and requires a spreader deflection
of 155-160 mm. Reducing deflection allows for a tighter headstay in a breeze
building up the forward sections (to move the keel forward and insure because the center section of the mast is straighter, creating a mainsail that
maximum fore and aft length). Reshape primarily via grinding to slim projects more sail area up high in the leech. There are two methods of controlling
spreader deflection. The most commonly used is the thru-bar kit. This guarantees
down and match the keel shape to the templates. an accurate 155 mm setting because the bar is pre-cut at the 155 angle. The
second method is spreader brackets. These can be mounted to the spreaders and
adjusted at the fore and aft sweep. Regardless of bracket type, make sure that the
spreaders cannot move while sailing.

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 J/2 4

STEPPING & TUNING

FORTUNATELY, THIS IS NOT LIKE TUNING A STRADIVARIUS. IMPORTANT ITEMS TO CHECK INCLUDE:

• Mast butt (step) positioned so that the pre-bend measures 2.5 inches when the shroud tension measures
twenty on the uppers and fifteen on the lowers1

• Headstay must be measured and set at maximum length. At the 20-15 shroud setting,
the headstay should measure negative 2.5-3 fingers on the Loos Tension gauge

• Set the mast at the partners so the forward face of the mast at the bottom of the black band
is at maximum J dimension (2925 mm)2

• Center the mast in the boat3

• Set rig tension for conditions

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 CLICK TO DOWNLOAD
THE QUICK TUNE CHART

Measure from the side of the third bolt down the stem fitting 2,740 mm aft to the
1

I-beam. Make a permanent mark. From this point, measure 115 mm to the front of
SHROUD TENSION
the mast (not the front of the mast step). This is a good starting point. Shroud tension controls headstay tension and mast bend.

The ultimate goal is to get the proper pre-bend. At 20-15 on your shroud settings,
you’re looking for 2.5 inches of pre-bend. If you need slightly more pre-bend to get to It’s simple. Add rig tension with increases in velocity, loosen tension with
2.5 inches, move the mast back in by 0.125 inch increments until you get there. If you decreases. Another way of thinking about it is this: the uppers control
need less, move the butt forward.
headstay tension and the lowers control mast bend. The balance shifts
Pre-bend is measured by pulling the main halyard down from the top of the mast between the two with velocity. In light air, the lowers are looser than the
to the black band at the goose neck. The distance from the back of the mast at the uppers. As the breeze increases and more overall rig tension is used,
spreaders to the front edge of the main halyard is the pre-bend. the lowers gradually get tighter (relative to the uppers).
2
The J measurement is taken from the sheerline/stem intersection at the bow to the
front of the mast. You will probably have to modify your partner blocks to allow the
TRUE WIND PRE-BEND UPPERS LOWERS BACKSTAY
mast to sit this far aft.

3
To center the mast, attach a tape measure to the tack shackle at the bow and 0-5* 2.5" 18 12 0
measure back an equal distance on each side to a point perpendicular to the forward
face of the mast. Place mark on both the starboard and port sides at the toe rail. 4-8 2.5" 20 15 0
Measure from these points to the center seam of the mast at the deck to insure that
the mast is in the middle of the boat at the partners (it may not be centered in the 8-13* 2.25" 24 21 +6
partners themselves). Tighten the upper shrouds to 20 on the Loos Tension gauge.
Attach a tape measure to the genoa halyard. Pull the halyard up to the two-foot
12-16 2" 27 24 +6
mark on the tape (or any even number). Check side-to-side to the two fixed points
on the toe rail to confirm that the distance is the same. With the upper sections
centered, use the lowers to bring the bottom in line (sight up the luff groove to check
16-19 1.75" 29 29 +6
straightness).
19+ 1.5" 30 31 +2

*Indicates four basic settings. Other ranges offer subtle changes when you get stuck
in between. All turns on rigging are measured in half-turn increments.

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 PRO TIP
J/2 4 We like a custom, weather-
sheeting traveler system with
separate cleats for two reasons:

When tacking in light air, it allows

you to roll the boat and pull the

CREW TASKS traveler to weather at the same

time. This is not possible with
the Harken weather sheeting car
There is only one good approach to deck layout: keep it as
because the car relies on being
simple as possible and minimize the clutter on deck. By doing
unloaded to move across the
this, you will make the boat easier to handle, leaving you more cockpit. The helmsman cannot
time to race. roll-tack the boat.

While each crew has their own preferences, the standard When racing in a breeze, it’s nice
positions and tasks are described below. to be able to adjust the traveler
without having to reach over your
legs. Having the cleat forward
DRIVER allows adjustment of the traveler
• Steer • Mainsheet with the front hand. There are two
• Backstay • Fine tune genoa sheet winch handle pockets so the driver
doesn’t have to carry the handle
• Traveler
through the tack.

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GENOA TRIMMER BALANCE
• Genoa trim • Spinnaker trim* • Clears weather genoa sheet in tacks • Holds the guy and gathers
• Twings* during douses
*Some crews have the tactician trim downwind. This is a matter of preference and
should be based on the strength and skill of the genoa trimmer.
• Operates mast controls, including • Calls puffs upwind
vang, outhaul, and Cunninghams
TACTICIAN *With the sheets and twings led outside, the balance person can get double the
• Plans strategy amount of roll on the boat. The twings are positioned just behind the shrouds with
a direct lead to the cleat. As the boat is turning into the jibe, uncleat the old twing,
• Coordinates with Driver to handle the boat in traffic stand up, and pull as hard as possible on the new twing. This helps roll the boat
through the jibe.
• Tracks wind direction
• Calls puffs downwind BOWMAN
• Monitors relative boat speed • Responsible for all
• Call starting line
• Feeds spinnaker on sets/gathers on douses spinnaker pole work
• Call waves
• Keeps spinnaker packed and sheets organized • In charge of all halyards
• Watch for starboard tackers upwind
• Assists with guy in heavy air
A note on crew weight: every crewperson is responsible for boat
• Communication balance. Always be conscious of your positions. Do every job
The best place to stand downwind is in the companionway facing aft. with weight in the right place as much as possible and minimize
The tactician funnels communication between front and back of the unnecessary movement.
boat.

SAIL TRIM TRUE WIND 0–5 4–8 8–13 12–15 15–19 19+

With the boat prepared and the crew positions UPPER TENSION 18 20 24 27 29 31
defined, it’s time to go sailing. LOWER TENSION 12 15 21 24 29 31
GENOA SCALLOPS 3/4" 1/2" 1/4" 1/4" Smooth Smooth
Rig tension (as detailed in the preceding table) LEECH OFF
SPREADER
4" 3" 2" 3.5" 4-8" 8-16"
provides the gross tune. Genoa halyard tension,
main and genoa sheet tension, and backstay are your FOOT OF SHROUDS 5" 4" 2" 2-4" 2-5" 4-6"
primary adjustments. Jib lead, mainsail Cunningham, Parallel Parallel Parallel Parallel Open to
MAIN TOP BATTEN Open to
and outhaul are secondary. This table provides to 5º to 5º to 3º to 5º downpower as
guidelines and initial settings. However, remember TRAVELLER 11" up 7" up 2" up 0-2" up 0-2" down 0-6" down
that trim is dynamic. Constantly shifting to reflect BACKSTAY BELOW 8" 10" 12-16" 14-22" 22-32" 22-32"
changes in velocity, waves, boat performance, tactical OUTHAUL Eased 2” Eased 2” Eased 1” Max Max Max
situations, etc. make the difference.
JIB FROM
SPREADER TIP
3" inside Tip to
CLICK TO DOWNLOAD
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THE QUICK TUNE CHART
 MAINSAIL TRIM
LIGHT AIR (0-7 KNOTS) MEDIUM AIR (8-14 KNOTS)
In light air, the main is set with the traveler to weather to keep the boom Medium air is serious, power-up, pointing mode, especially at the
on or just above center line. For the best combination of speed and bottom end of the range. At the bottom end, the outhaul is set 1 inch
pointing, the top batten is parallel with the boom. The outhaul is eased 2 from the black band. The crew is fully hiked. Look for maximum
inches from the black band to power up the bottom sections and round load on the keel to create lift. Sheet tension is the secret.
up the lower leech. The top telltale on the leech will be streaming 80
percent of the time. This setup is for straight line speed. In 8-11 knots, sail with the top batten hooked five degrees for
straight line and seven degrees for point mode. The difference in
In a point mode, the boom will be pulled up some 3 inches to weather of tension is two clicks on the ratchet block. At 10-14 knots, you’ll
centerline, and the mainsheet will be sheeted harder until the top batten begin to de-power. The outhaul is maxed to the black band, and a
is closed by as much as six degrees (sight up the middle of the sail using combination of backstay, traveler, and mainsheet is used to flatten
the boom as a guide for the top batten). The top telltale will be stalled the sail and keep the boat on its feet. The first adjustment is to ease
about 50 percent of the time, and the boat will point higher but go slower. the traveler down. The boom position will vary from centerline
To build speed out of tacks, through waves, and when the boat is slow, to leeward of center. If this is not enough, the next adjustment is
ease the mainsheet so the top batten is parallel to the boom, and drop backstay. As backstay comes on, the mainsail is flattened and the
the traveler until the boom is on the centerline. leech is twisted open. This will de-power the boat, but will also
twist the leech. An open leech will create pointing problems. Add
Ultimately, traffic, tactical considerations, and moment-to-moment mainsheet whenever backstay is added. One click on the mainsheet
assessment of boat speed relative to the competition will dictate your will keep the boat pointing.
set-up with regard to the relationship between the traveler and sheet
tension. When in doubt, err on the side of speed and keep the leech of the HEAVY AIR (15+ KNOTS)
mainsail open. Hike hard! The outhaul is maxed and the backstay is on hard. The
traveler is close to being all the way down, and chances are the
main is flogging. In this range, switch from traveler sheeting to
vang sheeting, particularly if it is puffy. The new 8:1 purchase on
the vang makes it easy to get all the vang tension that is necessary.
Position the traveler three-quarters of the way down, and play the
sheet for balance.

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GENOA TRIM
THIS SAIL COVERS A WIDE RANGE (0-18 KNOTS). WHEN IN DOUBT ABOUT SAIL SELECTION, WE USUALLY
CHOOSE THE GENOA. AS A RESULT, IT REQUIRES SOME CREATIVE AND RELATIVELY EXTREME CONDITIONS OF
HALYARD, LEAD POSITION, AND SHEET TENSION.

LIGHT AIR (0-7 KNOTS) HEAVY AIR (15+ KNOTS)

Keep the halyard loose, with large three-quarter inch scallops between Increase luff tension to smooth all wrinkles. Move the lead back 3-7
hanks. The lead is set one or two holes forward of the eight-knot median holes. The sheet and lead positions are set largely as a function of
settings, keeping the sheet played constantly. boat balance. Trim the genoa relative to how the mainsail is set up to
keep the boat upright.
In this range, the helmsperson will have to steer to keep up with
changes in velocity and direction if no change is made to the sheet. If the mainsail is flogging constantly, move the lead back. If this is not
Steer straight and gradually make changes; keep the telltales flying by enough, ease the sheet slightly so that both sails luff evenly. In light
adjusting the sheet. Try to work back to the median (4-6 inches off the spots, the sail can be trimmed harder, and/or the lead moved forward.
spreader setting) for this condition. In flat water, you can usually sheet harder and de-power with the lead
aft. In choppy water, it is important to ease the sheet.
A constant dialogue between trimmer and driver is helpful. The trimmer
tells the driver how far the leech is off, and the driver describes if he is A note on lead position: drill genoa tracks out so there are two holes
working up or down, whether or not the sail can be sheeted harder, or if between every factory hole. Median lead position is determined
it needs to stay eased to build speed. in eight knots of breeze. In this condition, trim the genoa so that it
touches the tip of the spreader and the chain plate at the same time.
MEDIUM AIR (8-14 KNOTS) From there, maximum forward will be two holes and maximum aft will
Gradually tighten the luff (halyard or Cunningham) so only a hint of be seven holes. Moving the lead aft increases the distance of the leech
scallops show. Move the lead position aft to median, or as much as two off the spreaders and brings the foot in on the chain plates. (See sail
holes aft of median. trim chart for distances off of spreader and chain plate.)

Sheet tension changes little in this range. The trimmer hikes and
changes trim only for big sets of waves (ease sheet) or in a tactical
situation (trimming harder to point or easing to foot).

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14
JIB TRIM SPINNAKER TRIM
We designed the blade to overlap the genoa. This enables lighter teams Standard rules of spinnaker trim apply, though because of the
to compete with heavier teams at the upper end of the genoa’s range. rule’s effect on sail geometry, and because the sail design is
The blade’s range is 17+ knots. Halyard/Cunningham tension is always geared more towards windward/leeward courses, reaching trim
set to keep the luff smooth. (To get maximum tension, sail the boat requires some exaggeration of normal technique.
downwind with the backstay completely off. With two people, pull as
hard as you can.) The median lead position is set by placing the plunger SOMETHING TO KEEP IN MIND:
of the jib lead directly perpendicular to the lower shroud (this is the In 0-14 knots, sail with the pole on the lower ring. In 14+ knots, use
position that you will use about 80 percent of the time). With the lead at the upper ring. In windier conditions, if you are tight reaching, the
median, mark the jib sheet at a point just in front of the block. When the outboard end of the pole should be a foot lower than perpendicular
sail is trimmed to this mark, the middle batten will be parallel with the to the mast. This will slide the draft forward in the sail and open
centerline of the boat and the upper leech will be about three inches up the leech to de-power the boat. Keep the pole 3- 6 inches off
inside the spreader tip. the headstay. When broad reaching and running in all conditions,
the tack should be slightly lower than the clew. This, coupled with
The leech of the sail should be trimmed from a point three inches the pole being squared, will help project maximum sail area. When
inside the spreader tip to as much as three inches outside the spreader broad reaching and running, always work to square the pole as far
tip as the breeze builds. In more than 24 knots, slide the lead back back as possible. Ease the sheet to maintain a curl, but make sure
one inch to de-power. If you get caught in a situation where the boat the bottom of the sail is underneath the top. The luff should run
is overpowered and you cannot adjust the lead (or it is already back), straight from tack to the point of curl. If the head can be eased to
ease the sheet an inch or two, or whatever it takes to balance the boat. weather of the straight line, the pole is under-squared.
This will quickly de-power the head of the sail, and the boat will drive
off the bottom of the sail.

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 HOW TO
PREPARE FOR
A SIGNATURE
REGATTA.
A MULTI-DAY REGATTA PRESENTS DIFFERENT
CHALLENGES AND A LOT MORE PRESSURE THAN
YOUR AVERAGE SEASON RACE. QUANTUM’S WILL
PAXTON AND TRAVIS ODENBACH HAVE A FEW TIPS
FOR GETTING YOUR CREW AND YOUR J/24 READY
FOR A SIGNATURE REGATTA.

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17

PHOTO BY CHRIS HOWELL

 HOW TO PRE PARE FO R A S I G NATURE REGAT TA

THINGS TO CONSIDER SO YOU WON’T HAVE TO WORRY WHEN

DO START PLANNING THE LOGISTICS YOU GET TO THE RACE INCLUDE:
OF THE EVENT WELL IN ADVANCE.
CLEAN: It’s best to start the season with a clean cabin. Empty out
No matter if the race is at the yacht club next door or across the country, any unnecessary items. Take out all of the garbage and extra tools,
it’s never too early to start planning for a multi-day event. How are you line, and sails. The crew will not only appreciate this when they
going to get the boat to the host club? Where will you dock? Is there have to hunker down below during light air, but you’ll be able to
enough parking for the crew, or should you arrange a carpool? Will you operate more efficiently and stay organized.
order sandwiches or make them at home? Are there dock lockers for
INSPECT THE RUNNING RIGGING: Make sure your running
spare tools and parts?
rigging is still up to par. It might take a few minutes, but look at
When the pressure is on, don’t let the little details get in the way of a good every inch of your halyards and sheets, paying close attention to
day of racing. splices. Keep an eye out for any tears or fraying. You don’t need
brand new line, but you should make sure yours has low stretch
DO MAKE SURE EVERYTHING and is not at risk of breaking.

IS IN WORKING ORDER. CHECK THE SAILS: You likely did a lot of sailing throughout
the year, so a sail or two may need to be replaced or repaired. Lay
Schedule heavy maintenance right before the big event to make sure
out all of your sails and inspect every inch, looking for rips, tears,
everything is in working order, from the winches to the blocks to the
pin holes, and frayed stitching. The main and the blade should last
sticky starter on the motor to the drawer pulls. When you need to grab
the longest, especially if cared for properly. On the genoa, look
a roll of tape, you don’t want it locked in the drawer because of a broken
closely at the lamination and be sure to check the vision windows.
pull! Ask your crew for a wish list, and make sure it all gets done. They
These sails take a beating against the rig when tacking, especially
might even come out and help.
the leech. After you’ve ensured they’re ready to go, carefully flake
them and return them to their bags. If you’re not comfortable
inspecting them or short on time, take them to your local Quantum
loft to make sure you’re ready to hit the course.

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DON’T SHOW UP TO THE BIG EVENT
WITH A BRAND NEW SYSTEM.
Avoid showing up to the big race with a brand new, untested
system. Whether it’s a new halyard, winch, or a new cleat
arrangement, a practice day is not the same as testing under
race conditions. No matter how simple the system, always make
sure it’s combat-tested by the crew that’s going to use it.

DO MEASURE AND MARK THE BOAT.

Even black permanent marker fades over time. Go around your boat
with a yardstick and a fresh pen to make sure all your numbers are
accurate and visible, from the jib car track to the halyards.

DO KEEP YOUR CREW INFORMED.

Believe it or not, your crew has a life off the water. While it’s
wonderful when your crew seeks out their own weather reports
and prints off the sailing instructions, don’t assume they will.
Keep your crew informed about the race, weather, logistics,
and the work you’ve put into boat preparation. That will help
them show up with their heads in the game and ready to put as
much effort into the race as you’ve put into the preparation.

DO GET LOCAL KNOWLEDGE.

If you’re traveling for the first time, having a crew member on the
boat who knows the area (on and off the water) or picking up a
couple locals from the crewlist can be an invaluable asset.

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 TIPS FOR BUILDING OTHER BOAT OWNERS: Boat owners are the most all-
purpose sailors and usually need the least training, even if they’re

YOUR J/24 CREW

not seasoned one-design sailors. Great places to meet them are
down on the dock or in the yacht club.

BEER CAN RACES: Depending on your location, evening beer

TO HAVE A SUCCESSFUL J/24 SEASON, YOU’RE can races at your local yacht club are a great way to meet new crew
GOING TO NEED A FEW GOOD HANDS TO HELP in a low-pressure situation. Beer can racers are usually die-hard
sailing junkies who can’t get enough or newbies looking for boats to
YOU GET AROUND THE COURSE FAST. ACROSS crew on. Look for the guy or gal wandering around on the dock with
THE COUNTRY AND AROUND THE WORLD, a PFD, or let people know that you’re looking for crew – somebody
always knows someone looking for a team. Also, don’t forget yacht
THERE ARE FORUMS ONLINE TO FIND CREWS, club bartenders are a wealth of knowledge and usually know who’s
BUT JUST LIKE ONLINE DATING, THE CREW looking for a ride.

LISTS CAN SOMETIMES BE HIT OR MISS.

FROST-BITE SAILORS: If you happen to live in a more
HERE ARE A FEW OUT-OF-THE BOX WAYS TO seasonal climate, chances are you’re not able to get out on the
FIND GOOD CREW FOR THOSE UPCOMING ONE water for evening beer can races during the winter. However, your
local yacht club or sailing centers may offer a frostbite series
DESIGN CIRCUITS AND REGATTAS.
throughout the winter in anything from Lasers to J/24s. If you’re
looking to find crew who are not fair-weather sailors, these are
your people. Find a local fleet that suits you, then get out there and
start recruiting those die-hard sailors.

20
YOUR LOCAL JUNIOR SAILING PROGRAM: Those skinny, THE CREW YOU ALREADY HAVE: Let your crew know how
16 year olds may not know which way to put a line around a winch, but much you appreciate them. Schedule team dinners and/or workouts
years of sailing small, responsive boats make them quick studies of sail in the off-season to keep in touch when you’re not sailing every
trim, weight movement, timing, and tactics (and they’re probably stronger week. If your crew is having fun, they’ll be your best recruiting
than they look). A portion of your yacht club dues often supports the junior resource to help build your team (chances are they know more than
sailing team, so get your money’s worth and put some of these upcoming a few good sailors that will increase your sailing network).
rock stars on your team!
You don’t necessarily need to find the sailors with the longest
resumes. It’s more important to find people you enjoy spending
LOCAL COLLEGE SAILORS: Planning to travel for one design circuits?
time with and who enjoy your company too. Now get out there and
Email a local college sailing coach to recruit some young talent. You’ll keep
go sailing!
the travel costs down and gain some local knowledge from someone who
spends multiple days every week sailing at the regatta venue.

SOCIAL MEDIA: Start a team page for your boat on Facebook.

You’ll build crew morale while also attracting interested sailors.
You might be able to drum up an extra set of hands with a last-minute
post before a regatta.

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 REGATTA
ORGANIZER

22
PRE-REGATTA
 BOAT PACKED UP: GEAR ON BOARD, SAFETY GEAR, TOOL  MARK ROUNDINGS
BOX, SPARE PARTS, REPAIR KIT, VHF  SPLIT TACKS TO SEE FAVORED SIDE OF COURSE AND/OR
 SAILS READY: NEW SAILS MEASURED, PRACTICE SAILS FAVORABLE CURRENT
OKAY, SAIL REPAIR KIT  PRACTICE STARTS (OR TIMED APPROACHES TO
 TRAILER READY: LIGHTS WORK, SPARE TIRE OKAY, STATIONARY MARK)
BEARINGS GREASED, STRAPS OKAY, REGISTRATION  BOAT HANDLING: TACKS, GIBES, 720S, 360S, SPINNAKER
 TOW VEHICLE: HITCH OKAY, OIL CHANGE, GAS, TRAILER SETS AND DOUSES
LIGHT BRIDLE OKAY  BOAT READY FOR RACE DAY
 ENTRY FEE PAID  ATTEND COMPETITORS MEETING
 HOUSING: DIRECTIONS, PHONE NUMBERS
 WEATHER FORECAST: LOCAL RESEARCH RACE DAY
 ARRIVE AT THE RACE VENUE EARLY
REGATTA SITE  PACK LUNCHES, PLENTY OF FLUIDS, AND SUNSCREEN
 RIG BOAT: WASH DECK/HULL, TEFLON HULL, BOTTOM  WEATHER/CURRENT FORECAST FOR THE DAY
CLEAN/SMOOTH, RUDDER AND KEEL OKAY VHF CHARGED
 COMPLETE REGISTRATION: BOAT/SAIL MEASUREMENT,  TUNING GUIDE/NUMBERS ON BOARD
WEIGH CREW IN
 CHECK SAFETY GEAR/LIFE JACKETS
 BOW NUMBERS, SPONSOR STICKER, SAILING
 GET TO RACE AREA ONE HOUR BEFORE WARNING
INSTRUCTIONS
 SAIL ON COURSE TO CHECK, WIND, WAVES, AND CURRENT
 TUNE RIG
MOVEMENT
 SAILS ON BOARD
 TUNE WITH OTHER BOAT(S) UPWIND AND DOWN
 SAFETY GEAR, LEGAL EQUIPMENT OKAY
 SET SPINNAKER AT LEAST ONCE NO MATTER WHAT THE
CONDITIONS ARE
PRACTICE DAY  GET TO LINE EARLY AND SET UP FOR STARTING SEQUENCE
 AT LEAST TWO BOATS OUT TO TUNE  DETERMINE FAVORED END OF THE LINE AND GET WATCHES
 UPWIND TUNING (FOUR LENGTHS APART) SET FOR SEQUENCE
ON BOTH TACKS  GET OFF THE LINE AND HAVE A GREAT RACE!
 DOWNWIND TESTING: SPINNAKER UP
(FOUR LENGTHS APART)

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 RACE-DAY
CHECKLIST
ON SHORE INSIDE 10 MINUTE SEQUENCE
 COURSE CHART  FIND WINDWARD MARK

 PADDLE, ANCHOR, LIFE JACKET  CHECK FOR KELP OR WEEDS ON RUDDER & BOARD

 STOP WATCH  FIND FAVORED-END OF LINE

 PROTEST FLAG  DECIDE FAVORED TACK AT START

 CHECK TIDE TABLES  CHECK ALL ADJUSTMENTS ONE MORE TIME

(BETTER TO BE A LITTLE LOOSE THAN TOO TIGHT
 CHECK OFFICIAL NOTICE BOARD
ON CUNNINGHAM AND JIB CLOTH)
 SAIL BY THE RACE COMMITTEE BOAT FOR
BEFORE 10 MINUTE SIGNAL FIVE MINUTE SIGNAL
SAIL UPWIND TO CHECK ADJUSTMENTS:  CHECK COURSE
 MAST BEND SIDEWAYS, FORE & AFT  RECHECK STARTING LINE AND WIND DIRECTION
 OUTHAUL  ESTIMATE AGGRESSIVENESS OF FLEET
 DOWNHAUL (MAIN & JIB)  CHECK RUDDER AND BOARD AGAIN FOR
 JIB LEADS AND TRIM KELP OR WEEDS

SAIL ONE WEATHER LEG BEFORE STARTING:  START FIRST AND STAY FIRST

 CHECK FOR WIND SHIFTS IN WIND BENDS

 LOOK FOR FLAGS THAT MIGHT HELP IN

FINDING WIND SHIFTS
 DETERMINE CURRENT IN RACING AREA

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25

PHOTO BY CHRIS HOWELL

 QUANTUM CLASS EXPERTS
Like all tuning guides, these numbers and settings are just that: guides, not gospel. They have been
developed to help you find the sweet spots and get you in the right range. Superior athletes in every sport
often have slightly different styles or techniques that work for them.

Always keep in mind that trim is dynamic. You can’t just set it and go. Try to understand what tuning and trim
controls do. That way you can react and make changes in response to your actual performance at any given
moment. To paraphrase that famous west coast credo, fun is fast, so don’t be afraid to experiment and let us
know what works!

If you have any questions, be sure to call. Quantum’s class experts are your support team, providing real-
time tuning data, sail trim, sailing technique, mast set-up, and tips. We’re here to help you enjoy your J/24!

26
FOR MORE
INFORMATION
CONTACT
TRAVIS ODENBACH QUANTUM SAILS ROCHESTER
585.943.8652 | [email protected]

SCOTT NIXON QUANTUM SAILS ATLANTIC

410.268.1161 | [email protected]

MARK REYNOLDS QUANTUM SAILS SAN DIEGO

619.226.2422 | [email protected]

MARTY KULLMAN QUANTUM SAILS ATLANTIC

727.560.0164 | [email protected]

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888.773.4889 | quantumsails.com