AK-190 DIY LED MUSIC Kit

Component list:
 12x 5mm Red, Green, Yellow LEDs

(various)
 15x ¼W resistors (R1-1M, R2-10k, R4-
220k, R<5...16>-200) *
D.I.Y Flashing LED Music kit  50k ¼W 6mm horizontal Trim
Potentiometer (RP1)
Level: Beginner AK-190  Polarized capacitor (C1-1 µF, C2-100 µF)
 3x PNP Transistor (9012) (Q1, Q2, Q3)
 NPN Transistor (9013)
 3x 1N4148 Signal Fast Switching Diode
(D<1-3>)
 IC CMOS Binary Counter CD4060 (U1)
 PCB mount Buzzer (Transducer)
 Two-pin screw terminal
*R1: brown, black, black, yellow, brown;
*R2: brown, black, black, red, brown;
*R<5…16>: red, black, black, black, brown;
Component polarity: Chip Pinout:

When dealing with polarized components, it is important
to be able to identify which pins represent the anode Use dent and
(positive) and cathode (negative). dot as reference
Here are a few ways of doing so for LEDs and polarized
capacitors:
 The shorter pin usually is the cathode (negative).

However, for LEDs if the leads are cut you can
assume the cathode lead is on the side of the LED
that has a flat cut. For capacitors, there usually is
a sign on the component itself indicating which
lead is the cathode (-).
Negative sign
Guide:
2.3) Next, begin placing the capacitors. When placing
1) Turn on iron to 285°C (545°F) temperature (solder used
for this kit 60 tin/40 lead). the polarized capacitor, refer to previous notes about
identifying component polarity. You must make sure
the negative lead of the capacitor is placed in the
2) Place in components and solder (make sure the side of
the board with the silkscreen is facing up when inserting filled area of the capacitor silkscreen on the board.
components): Don’t forget to verify if your values match, refer to
component list.
2.1) Start placing the resistors and make sure their
values match, refer to component list, resistor color 2.4) Solder the capacitor leads and cut when done.
code and silkscreen. Use Multimeter if needed. Tip:
Bend the leads of the resistor outwards on the back 2.5) Now place the 9012 PNP transistors (Q1, Q2, Q3).
of the board to provide minimal mechanical grip Refer to the white layout on the board to properly
but ensure that the angle formed by the bend is not place the transistors. It is very important to make sure
you place it as shown in the silkscreen which is a top
smaller than 45 degrees.
view of the transistor and to verify they are 9012
2.2) Solder the leads of the placed resistors to the transistors. Tip: Use curve of transistor to help place
it.
pads and cut them off once done soldering. (using
a flush cutter) Use the silkscreen
2.6) Solder the leads and cut.
to help you
CL9300A
board Negative sign
2.6) Now take any copper wire and cut it to the length
indicated by the silkscreen for J1 (near Q3). Strip both
ends and place it. Solder and cut if needed. (Note: in the Use silkscreen
end, when you’re testing, if you notice the yellow LEDs as reference
are not blinking, try soldering together the emitter lead of
Q3 to J1)
2.7) Now, place the diodes, 1N4148 (D<1-3>).

IMPORTANT: You must make sure to place the diodes in
the right direction. There is a black bar drawn around the
component. This bar is representative of the cathode lead
of the diode. Use this along with the silkscreen to help
you place the diode.
Cathode (-) and cut.

2.9) Solder leads
2.9) Solder the leads and cut.
2.10) Next, place the trim pot. Think of the three leads as
the three corners of an isosceles triangle. The lead that
Black Bar aligns with goes in the hole inside the silkscreen area of RP1 is the
silkscreen Bar one representing the tip of that triangle.
Tip
2.8) Start placing the LEDs. Always be aware of the
polarity of these components, refer to previous notes
concerning this and to the silkscreen on the top of the
board. The bar on the silkscreen represents where
the cathode lead of the LED should be placed. (It is
recommended that you gradually place and solder
the LEDs (or any components for that matter) on the
board to avoid overcrowding the back which can
cause annoyance when soldering).
2.11) Place buzzer. Make sure the positive sign on the
component aligns with the one on the silkscreen of the 2.14) Now take the smaller board (CL9300A). Place the 9013
board. NPN transistor on this board but make sure the leads are
sticking out from the side with copper pads and that the right
2.12) Solder and cut the leads if needed and the left leads are bent downwards (refer to schematic
and image).
2.13) Place the screw terminal. Make sure it is facing away
from the board that way it is easier to screw inputs. Solder 2.15) Solder and cut if necessary.
and cut. Soldering side
Ensure buzzer aligns

with silkscreen
Mounting side
2.16) Now take two unshielded Solder pads (solder
copper wire strips (long enough copper wire here)
to stick out from the bottom of
the board). Tin them with solder
and then solder them to the
pads indicated by the picture.
2.17) Once you have soldered

the
2.12)wires and the transistor,
place the board vertically in the
Facing away designated area of the
silkscreen (look for IC1). Make
sure it is facing away from the
board. Facing away
2.18) Solder and cut (if needed) the four leads.

3) Once assembly is done, connect the board to a 3V
2.19) Finally, place the CD4060 16-pin chip (U1). Keep in power source. Watch and listen.
mind the direction of the chip. IMPORTANT: Make sure that
the dent on the chip aligns with the dent on the silkscreen
layout, refer to previous notes if you must.
2.20) Solder the leads.

Make use of this chart to identify resistor
values. Note that number of bands drawn on
the resistor dictate how to calculate your
values.

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Component list:

 12x 5mm Red, Green, Yellow LEDs

*R1: brown, black, black, yellow, brown;

*R2: brown, black, black, red, brown;

*R<5…16>: red, black, black, black, brown;

Component polarity: Chip Pinout:

 The shorter pin usually is the cathode (negative).

2.7) Now, place the diodes, 1N4148 (D<1-3>).

Cathode (-) and cut.

Ensure buzzer aligns

2.17) Once you have soldered

2.18) Solder and cut (if needed) the four leads.

2.20) Solder the leads.

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