San Jose Community College

San Jose, Malilipot, Albay

Module in Home Economics

Chapter 5
Lesson 2: Dressmaking Tools, Materials and Equipment

Lesson Objectives:
At the end of the lesson, you should be able to:
1. Demonstrate understanding of some principles and concepts of dressmaking.
2. Identify sewing tools and equipment.
3. Locate different body points necessary in body measurements.
4. Identify important elements and principles of design.
5. Describe the basic techniques in drawing.
6. Perform basic maintenance and health and safety measures in sewing.

Introduction:

Dressmakers are indispensable in society. All of us human beings have to wear

clothing to cover and protect our bodies. People of different ages and status express
themselves through the clothes they wear. Demands of these are dictated with the chance of
fashion and trends.

Dressmaking is an industry that helps very much in the progress of one’s nation. Every
person in the community wears dress, blouse, pants, polo, skirt, t-shirt, to cover his or her
body. Belongingness in the group is another aspect why each person has to wear a dress, polo,
or shirt, thus the need of garment industries for more dressmakers or tailors.

Dressmakers are needed to supply the demand of the populace not only in the
Philippines, but throughout the world. In this Chapter, you will appreciate the value of
dressmakers in the lives of individuals.

What is Dressmaking?

The dictionary defines this as the art of sewing clothes and dresses like sewing a
beautiful dress from a fabric. The individual who sews clothing for women is commonly
known as dressmaker. A dressmaker may also cater to the needs of men depending on her
training, but usually a tailor does the job. Men and women have different body shapes that call
for different techniques in pattern drafting, fabric cutting, designing and sewing. However, it
is beneficial for a dressmaker or tailor if he/she can sew clothes for both male and female.

Pre-test:

Direction. Read each statement and encircle the letter of the correct answer.

1. Nilda is going to draft a pattern of a pyjama. Which material does she need to mark the
lines in the fabric?
a. Ruler c. Sewing gauge
b. Tailor’s chalk d. Tape measure
 2. Wearing garment with horizontal lines will make the body appear _____.
a. Big and round c. big and small
b. Short and wide d. tall and skinny

3. What should you do to be able to get the exact waistline of the client?
a. Tell the client to stand straight
b. Tell the client to wear a fitted garment
c. Tie a string around the waistline as point of reference
d. Take the horizontal measurements first

4. The measurement taken from the shoulder base neck to the bust point is the ____.
a. Bust distance c. bust height
b. Bust d. shoulder

5. Which measurement is taken from the nape down to the desired length?
a. Length of shirt c. Full bodice length
b. Length of sleeve d. Bus height

6. Which drafting tool has two arms and with a 90 degree angle and used to draw
perpendicular lines?
a. Meter stick or yard stick c. ruler
b. L-square d. Sewing gauge

Sewing Tools and Equipment

The dressmaker needs quality tools and equipment in sewing. Good performance is
important for long-lasting satisfaction of your customers, hence selection of your sewing
machine ad sewing tools are important. The correct tools and equipment will make your work
lighter and easier. These tools and equipment are of different classifications and will be
discussed in the succeeding section.

Classification of Sewing Tools and Materials

Measuring tools

Measuring tape. This is also commonly known as tapeline. It is

used to take body measurement and made of non-stretchable strip. It
has two calibrated sides: one side measures 150 centimetres, and the
other side is 60 inches.

1. Sewing gauge. It is used to measure small hem areas and short

distance such as hem folds, seam allowance, buttonholes, seams
and tucks. This is a six-inch ruler made of aluminium or stiff
cardboard in taking body measurement.

2. Ruler. This is a common measuring device used by

everyone, including dressmakers. It has a 12-inch
 length and is made of wood or plastic. It is used to connect two points in connecting
two lines specifically in drawing patterns.

3. Meter stick or yard stick. This is used to measure cloth or

fabric by meter or yard, marked off in centimetres and
millimetres and usually made of wood or steel.

Drafting Tools

1. L-square. This is an aluminium ruler with 90 degrees angle used

in drawing perpendicular lines and to measure off parallel lines.
Used to construct lines by connecting its two arms
perpendicularly. The long arm has breakdown measurements of
1-24; 1-12; 1-6; 1-3; and 2-3 while the short arm has breakdown
measurements of 1-32; 1-16; 1-8; 1-4
and 1-2.

2. Hip curve. As the name suggests, it is a curve stick used to

form the hipline and other areas of the garments which has
curve section or parts. This is made of metal with
calibration on both sides.

3. French curve. This is used to shape the neckline, armholes and

collars during the drafting of pattern or cutting the fabric ready
for sewing.

Cutting Tools

1. Shears. These are used for cutting fabric, paper and materials. There are different
kinds of shears for specific purpose.

Types of Shears:
a. Cutting shears – are used for cutting fabrics. Their blades are straight and usually
7-12 inches long and usually made of stainless steel.
b. Pinking shears – used to cut the edge of seam allowance of fabric that does not
ravel due to its zigzag edge. This can also be used in cutting decorative materials.
c. Scalloping shears – used to cut parts of garments with a series of uniform
scallops as it has scallop blades.

Cutting Shear Pinking Shear Scalloping Shear

 2. Scissors. These are used for cutting hanging threads, excess
fabrics coming out from seam. This is also the type used to trim
hair and other purposes. Some scissors are made of a
combination of plastic and metal, others are all metal or
stainless steel material.

3. Buttonhole scissors. This is a special

kind of scissors used for making or cutting buttonholes. The
blades have square shape found at the joint of scissors to control
the cutting the fabric or cloth off the buttonhole area.

4. Embroidery scissors. These are used in embroidery

work in cutting fine delicate cloth and thread. They are
shard pointed scissors usually 4-5 inches long.

5. Seam ripper. This is used in

cutting off stiches of a seam. During the ripping process,
extra care must be taken to prevent the cloth from being
damaged.

Marking tools

1. Tailor’s chalk. This is used to mark the fabric and pattern paper.
This is available in different colors and is made of hard chalk.
Markings on the fabric can be removed by brushing.

2. Tracing wheel. It is used to trace the lines in the pattern to

penetrate the fabric. Its serrated edge produces the dots on the
fabric and the smooth edge the solid line.

3. Dressmaker’s carbon paper. This is specifically waxed

carbon paper fitted underneath the fabric so the tracing wheel’s
marking will be transferred to the fabric. Different brands
are available in the market with different instructions.

Sewing Aids

1. Pin. This is used to fasten or hold two or three fabrics or materials

together. There are two kinds of pins, one with colored rounded
head for easy handling and the other one is with as small steel
head.
 2. Pin cushion. This is a small-size cushion used to hold pins and needles for
safekeeping. Scattering on the floor of needles is a risk for dressmakers and other
workers should be avoided.

3. Hand needles. These are used for temporary stiches, hemming

and other hand sewing purposes. There are different sizes
available in the market to suit the kind of fabric to be sewn.

4. Thimble. This is a small cup used to protect the finger from being
pricked by the needle during sewing. It is placed on the tip of the
middle finger that pushes the needle while hand sewing.

5. Threader. This is used to insert the thread to the needle eye. It has
a diamond shaped wire attached to a handle of thin material made
of thin plate aluminium.

Body Measurements for Men and Women Apparels

The success of a dressmaker or tailor is manifested in the satisfaction of her/his

customers. He/she can even help customers in choosing the garment style and the kind of
fabric appropriate for a particular design. But first and foremost, accurate body
measurements are one of vital importance to get the best results. The following are the
different measurements taken both for men and women:

1. Shoulder – Position the end of the tape measure on the shoulder tip passing the nape
across the other shoulder tip.
2. Length of shirt – This is taken from the nape down to the desired length.
3. Bust – Place the tape measure around the fullest part of the bust inserting two fingers
in it.
4. Waist – Place the tape measure around the fullest part of the waist.
5. Hip – Position the tape measure in the line around the fullest part of the hips.
6. Chest – Starting from the shoulder point, measure 4” downward and put the tape
measure around the chest.
7. Bust height – measure from the shoulder base neck down to the bust point.
8. Bust distance – taken from one bust point to another bust point,
9. Length of sleeve – Measure from shoulder tip point to the desired length
10. Short sleeve circumference/girth – from the measured short sleeve length, place
the tape measure around the arms with the desired circumference.
11. Full bodice length – this is the measure from the shoulder base neck to the waistline.

Points to remember in taking body measurements

Taking accurately the body measurements depends largely on the competence of the
dressmaker or tailor in doing the job. The dressmaker has to keep a Personal Measurement
Record (PMR) to register the measurements of the client. The record has to be kept for
reference purposes when the client returns the next time around.
 Before taking the body measurements of the client, it is advisable to have an assistant
who will take note or record the measurement while you, as dressmaker, do the task. The
following are important guides:

1. Request the client politely to stand straight while taking the body measurements.
Things inside the pockets like wallet, cellphone and handkerchiefs have to be removed
to be able to get the accurate measurements. As much as possible, the client wear a
well-fitted garment to get a good result of the sewn fabric.
2. Use a soft flexible brand of tape measure as this will lay flat on the part of the body to
be measured.
3. Tie a string around the waistline of the client. This will be your point of reference
while taking the measurements.
4. You can start taking measurements either vertical or horizontal.
5. When measuring lengths, allow the tape measure to hang freely for accurate
measurements.

An example format for the PMR of your client is given as your guide.

Personal Measurement Record

Name: Date:
Address:
Contact info:

PAJAMA
1. Length/Outline length:
2. Waist:
3. Hip:
4. Crotch/Rise:
5. Bottom:

SHIRT
1. Shoulder: 7. Bus height (girl):
2. Length of shirt: 8. Bus distance (girl):
3. Bust 9. Length of sleeve (short):
4. Chest: 10. Short sleeve cir. or girth:
5. Waist: 11. Full bodice length:
6. Hip:

Activity:
Direction: Read each statement and encircle the letter of the correct answer.

1. Which drafting tool has two arms and with a 90 degree angle and used to draw
perpendicular lines?
a. Meter stick or yard stick c. ruler
b. L-square d. Sewing gauge

2. What should you do to be able to get the exact waistline of the client?
a. Tell the client to stand straight
b. Tell the client to wear a fitted garment
c. Tie a string around the waistline as point of reference
 d. Take the horizontal measurements first

3. Nilda is going to draft a pattern of a pyjama. Which material does she need to mark the
lines in the fabric?
a. Ruler c. Sewing gauge
b. Tailor’s chalk d. Tape measure

4. Measurement taken from the nape down to the desired length is the ____.
a. Length of shirt length c. full bodice
b. Length of sleeve d. bus height

5. Wearing garment with horizontal lines will make the body appear _____.
a. Big and round c. big and small
b. Short and wide d. tall and skinny

6. The measurement taken from the shoulder base neck to the bust point is the ____.
a. Bust distance c. bust height
b. Bust d. shoulder