TubeSound » Blog Archive » B&K 700 & 707 tube tester http://tubesound.

com/2008/03/23/bk-707-tube-tester/

Home
About
Contact

Email

B&K 700 & 707 tube tester

The B&K 707 tube tester dates from the late 1960s into the 1970s. My manual is stamped August 1969, and a
modern tube data setup chart dates 1978.

First of all, a brief explanation of the circuitry of this tester is necessary. Is this a Mutual Conductance tube
tester? Well, yes and no.

1 of 14 6/24/2009 1:25 PM
TubeSound » Blog Archive » B&K 700 & 707 tube tester http://tubesound.com/2008/03/23/bk-707-tube-tester/

Tubes that test in the “Jet-Check” section test for mutual conductance, with the exception of diodes/rectifiers
(which always test only for Emission). The Jet-Check section is the upper panel (sockets 1 – 35). Tubes that
test in the “Switch” section — the bottom panel (sockets 36 – 45), are tested for Emission.

What does this mean? Well, for example, a 6146 tube is tested for Emission, not mutual conductance (Gm).
So, if someone tells you that they tested a 20LF6, 6KD6, 6CW4, 6DS4, 6JS6C, 7868, 6146, etc… for good
mutual conductance with a B&K 707/700, then they have no idea how to use and interpret the results from
their B&K 707/700. This would include most sweep tubes (all 12-pin compactrons), all loctal tubes, most
Novar tubes, all Nuvistors, and many octal and 9-pin-miniature tubes. A notable sweep tube exception are the
6LQ6-based tubes that test for Gm via upper panel socket #35.

That said, many popular audio tubes are tested for mutual conductance in the upper panel Dyna-Jet sockets.
This includes such classics as 6L6, 6V6, 6550, 6CA7, 12AX7, 12AU7, 6SN7, 6SL7, 12BH7, 12AY7, etc.
Probably a majority of our favorite audio tubes can be tested in one of the pre-configured Dyna-Jet sockets.

The beauty of the B&K 707 are these Dyna-Jet sockets. They allow rapid testing of multi-element tubes
without any configuration. For example, say that you have 20 6SN7 tubes to test. In the B&K, you simply
insert each tube into socket 25, turn the shunt dial as directed, and you can perform Shorts, Grid Leakage,
Triode 1, and Triode 2 tests all by the press of their respective buttons. To perform a similar test in a Hickok,
consider the procedure for a Hickok 6000. First, you would have to locate 6SN7 on the chart. Second, you
would have to setup the heater voltage and connections (6.3, H Y). Third, you setup each element for Triode
#1 by turning five knobs to 4-5-0-6-0. Fourth, you need to set the Bias (23) and Shunt (79) dials. Fifth, you
insert the tube, adjust the Line rheostat, check visually for shorts, then make gas test. Sixth, you can finally
press test button and get a reading for Triode #1. Seventh, you then have to decide whether you want to pull
this tube out, and start testing all your other 6SN7’s Triode #1, or do you want to reconfigure the tester for
Triode #2, which will include totally different positions for the Grid, Plate, Screen, Cathode, and Suppressor.
If you reconfigure, you will have to do this at least 20 times to test all 20 of your 6SN7 tubes. (Assuming that
you test T1 then T2, T2 then T1, T1 then T2, etc…) And many tubes will require changing the Bias and/or
Shunt dials for each additional element. As you can see, this process is quite time-consuming. With your
B&K, the process is effortless. You save a large amount of time and work. Thus, it is easy to see why the
B&K 707 is favored by “power users” (anyone who sells or collects a large quantity of tubes).

REPAIR AND CALIBRATION

All voltage tests below are made at 117V line voltage. Tester should be connected to a Variac set at 117 vac
for all calibration procedures that require voltage readings.

First, a good cleaning of all the electronics is a must. Blow dry with a garage air compressor. All sockets,
switches, and potentiometers (including the Sensitivity pot) should be cleaned and treated with Deoxit, and
rigorously worked clockwise / counterclockwise. The Sensitivity pot is sealed and must be carefully pryed
open to treat it with Deoxit.

Any sockets that are very loose at holding the tube must be replaced. Popular sockets such as #8, #25, #29,
#33, #35, #38, #39, and #41 should be closely examined; they are high-traffic and most likely to be worn out.
After replacing, install socket-savers to protect new sockets. The following picture shows 3 new sockets that I
recently replaced (the white ceramic sockets are the new ones).

2 of 14 6/24/2009 1:25 PM
TubeSound » Blog Archive » B&K 700 & 707 tube tester http://tubesound.com/2008/03/23/bk-707-tube-tester/

Second, all resistors must be individually checked for accuracy. Resistors that cannot be checked in-circuit
must have one-end removed and rechecked. No shortcuts here. If you want accuracy, you will take this
effort. If you want to pretend you have a calibrated unit, you will take lazy shortcuts.

Third, all capacitors should be replaced (preferably), or at least tested on a quality capacitor tested and
reinstalled.

3 of 14 6/24/2009 1:25 PM
TubeSound » Blog Archive » B&K 700 & 707 tube tester http://tubesound.com/2008/03/23/bk-707-tube-tester/

Fourth, test both internal tubes (6BN8 and #83) on another tube tester. The #83 should have both diode
sections closely balanced emission (if not, replace.) The #83 can also be replaced with a pair of 1N4007
diodes.

Fifth, and this is critical, you MUST ELIMINATE the bayonet lamp sockets for the #55 bulbs, and
solder the bulbs directly into the circuit. This is one of the most important steps. Why? Well, anyone with
sufficient experience repairing vintage pinball machines and antique jukeboxes will know the problems
associated with these old bayonet lamp sockets. They suck. No matter how much you clean them, the
continuity will always falter — sometimes a little, sometimes a lot, sometimes after extended warmup,
sometimes when cold. May not happen for a few weeks or months after you have cleaned them, but it WILL
HAPPEN. And these #55 bulbs are critical to the ALC (automatic line control) circuitry, so you NEED
perfect continuity here. No exceptions.

4 of 14 6/24/2009 1:25 PM
TubeSound » Blog Archive » B&K 700 & 707 tube tester http://tubesound.com/2008/03/23/bk-707-tube-tester/

Any “calibration” that does not include directly soldering the bulbs into the circuit is inadequate. There is no
way to rationalize otherwise. These sockets are not reliable enough to say “I cleaned them good and checked
continuity”. That is naive and shows a lack of real-world experience with these bayonet sockets. The only
way to achieve perfect continuity is to directly solder the bulbs into the circuit. As long as the bulbs are
connected via the socket, the user has no practical way to know whether slight continuity problems (you
know, when bulbs flicker…) are affecting the test results, and these subtle continuity problems will severely
compromise tester accuracy.

You do not need to remove the sockets; simply use the sockets to “hold” the bulb, solder leads onto each bulb
(side and base), and solder the leads into the circuit. Done correctly, no one can visually tell the difference
unless they try to physical twist-out the bulb. These bulbs almost never go bad (I have not had to replace mine
in 18 years of every-day use that I have owned this tester, and they are probably original and pushing 40
years of usage. Likewise, I cannot remember the last time that they needed replaced for a customer’s
650/700/707 either….) The bulbs should be of equal brightness. If not, or if either needs replaced, use only
NOS USA inventory (no imported junk) and replace both from the same NOS box lot.

Sixth, check the accuracy of the Shorts Test function. First, with all sockets empty, push SHORTS button and
make sure that the shorts light is not lit. (If it does light, you have a short somewhere that must be located
before proceeding.) Next, using a Test Socket in socket #1, connect a 1-Meg resistor from pins 2 to 4. Power
on tester, allow 15 minutes warm-up time, and press Shorts button. The Shorts bulb should barely light.
Adjustment is made via R16 (accessable through socket #30).

5 of 14 6/24/2009 1:25 PM
TubeSound » Blog Archive » B&K 700 & 707 tube tester http://tubesound.com/2008/03/23/bk-707-tube-tester/

Some users prefer to set the Short Test at 2-Meg sensitivity. If that is your preference, adjust accordingly.
Personally, 1-Meg has been the accepted standard, so I use 1-Meg. Furthermore, many power tubes will show
a slight glow at a 2-Meg threshold, so unless the user is savvy enough to properly interpret the results on a
sliding scale based upon their knowledge of the tube-type being tested, a 1-Meg threshold is really the ideal
choice.

Seventh, check the Grid Emission functionality. With all sockets empty, press GRID EMISSION button and
check that the meter does not move, and that the Shorts light does not illuminate. (If so, you have short or
leakage developing somewhere and must be located before proceeding.) Next, reinsert the Test Socket, and
connect 20-Meg resistance (you can use two 10-meg resistor in series) between pins 1 and 7 of your test
socket still in socket #1. Allow tester to warm up for 15 minutes, Press Grid Emission button, and meter
should read near 20 on the scale.

6 of 14 6/24/2009 1:25 PM
TubeSound » Blog Archive » B&K 700 & 707 tube tester http://tubesound.com/2008/03/23/bk-707-tube-tester/

Adjustment is made via R18 pot, accessible with a screwdriver thru socket 33.

Eighth, check the Signal Voltage.

BK 707 Signal
Voltage

BK 700 Signal Voltage

Make sure tester is connected to a Variac set at 117 vac. Connect a quality Fluke meter to pin 1 (pos) and pin
2 (neg) of your test socket in socket #1. Set the meter to autorange AC voltage. Press TEST 1 button, read 1.5
AC volts.Adjustment is made via R20 pot, accessible thru socket #25.

Ninth, check DC Bias.

7 of 14 6/24/2009 1:25 PM
TubeSound » Blog Archive » B&K 700 & 707 tube tester http://tubesound.com/2008/03/23/bk-707-tube-tester/

BK 707 DC Bias

BK 700 DC Bias

Using same setup as above, set Fluke meter to autorange DC voltage. Press TEST 1, observe (-2.5 ) DC volts.

Adjustment made via R11 pot, located inside the tester beside the 6BN8 tube on the transformer bracket.

Tenth, while tester is at rest, adjust the setscrew on meter face so that panel meter rests at Zero.

Eleventh, check BALANCE CONTROL. Connect a 10-watt, 10K ohm resistor between pins 5 and 2 of the
test socket in socket #1. Set Sensitivity Control to 100. Press TEST 1 button, meter should hover on Zero.
(Yes, the manual instructions use a 6K resistor for this test. That will work, but using a 10K is better.)

If meter deflects either direction, adjust R5 (while depressing TEST 1 Button) until meter balances perfectly
at 0. Power off, and remove test socket. I have found on several occasions that R5 can have unsatisfactory
performance even after treated with deoxit, and must either be replaced or substituted with fixed resistors

8 of 14 6/24/2009 1:25 PM
TubeSound » Blog Archive » B&K 700 & 707 tube tester http://tubesound.com/2008/03/23/bk-707-tube-tester/

(start with a matched pair of 10 ohm resistors, and shunt one of them with approx 220Ω until balance is
achieved). Unless R5 is stable, as your balance goes off, so will your test scores.

Twelve, test plate voltage. Plate voltage can be tested using octal test socket in socket #29, positive lead of
Fluke to Pin 3, Neg lead to Pin 8. Press TEST 1 and observe result.

Thirteen, test screen voltage. Screen voltage can be tested using octal test socket in socket #29, positive lead
of Fluke to Pin 4, Neg lead to Pin 8. Press TEST 1 and observe result.

9 of 14 6/24/2009 1:25 PM
TubeSound » Blog Archive » B&K 700 & 707 tube tester http://tubesound.com/2008/03/23/bk-707-tube-tester/

Fourteen, start testing tubes of known scores. Examples below show a Sovtek 5881 for mutual conductance,
and a 7Y4 for Emission. Your result for the 6L6 will vary based upon the Gm of the tube (even NOS tubes
have a wide variety of scores), but the 7Y4 emission result should be close to 100 (may vary slightly based
upon line voltage.)

10 of 14 6/24/2009 1:25 PM
TubeSound » Blog Archive » B&K 700 & 707 tube tester http://tubesound.com/2008/03/23/bk-707-tube-tester/

This completes calibration.

FINAL THOUGHTS

The B&K 707 is the ultimate professional-grade tester for any user that values his or her time and appreciates
convenience. Personally, I can easily say that the B&K 707 or 700 is my #1 rated tube tester because (1)
speed of use and (2) mutual conductance testing of the most popular tubes. No other tester has that
combination.

If you only test tubes occasionally, or have a small tube collection, then you would certainly place less
emphasis on the convenient Dyna-Jet sockets, and may prefer a different tester. For my needs — the ability
to save time and test a large number of tubes, the B&K 707 or 700 is #1.

Pros:

1. Dyna-Jet sockets make testing multiple-section tubes fast, efficient, and with true mutual conductance
results (of course, Diodes/Rectifiers are quickly tested for Emission). If you are testing a large number
of tubes, the experience is a true pleasure that has no equal.
2. Very high build quality.
3. Tests modern Compactron, Novar, Magnoval tubes.
4. Quality shorts and leakage test.
5. Excellent choice for testing modern sweep tubes.
6. The #83 rectifier tube can be easily replaced with cooler and more efficient solid-state diodes.
7. Documented calibration procedure.
8. Manual is well written, excellent documentation, detailed explanation of the circuitry. The Tube Data
Charts list modern tubes that many testers cannot test.

Cons: Even the best equipment has something that could be better.

1. No antique sockets. The tester cannot test any tubes with less than a 7-pin-miniature base (except for
nuvistors). You will need a 2nd tube tester to test antique tube types, so if you only want to own one
tester, do not choose this tester.
2. Tester has selectable heater voltages from 1 to 50, which means that none of the old 117V heater tubes

11 of 14 6/24/2009 1:25 PM
TubeSound » Blog Archive » B&K 700 & 707 tube tester http://tubesound.com/2008/03/23/bk-707-tube-tester/

can be tested. Those tubes are not very popular in the modern world, so this is not really an issue.
3. ALC circuitry is only moderately effective. According to B&K’s own documentation (the B&K 650
factory calibration document), the automatic line control circuitry still allows a 5% variation in test
results. If you want perfection, the B&K ALC system is less accurate than Hickok’s method of
compensating for line voltage by manually adjusting a rheostat. But for people with common sense, this
degree of accuracy is very satisfactory.
4. Many tubes are NOT tested for mutual conductance. (Again, all tubes tested in the bottom Switch
section are tested for Emission only). Therefore, if you worship Mutual Conductance, a different choice
would be better for you.
5. ALC bulbs must be soldered into the circuit to guarantee accuracy. This requires work.
6. Large physical size makes it less than ideal for persons doing repairwork on-the-go, or persons who
want a very small footprint on their workbench. Much smaller and lighter choices are available for
users who value compact size (Accurate Instruments models, Sencore Mighty Mites, LaFayette models,
etc.)
7. Calibration procedure is good, but not as detailed as other testers. A natural variation in test scores will
exist even among perfectly repaired and calibrated B&K’s. This can be said for most testers, though.

_________________

TEST COMPARISONS:

Testing the same triode section of a Mullard ECC82/12AU7A:

(as tested with my calibrated Hickok 6000 on the true micromhos scale, to obtain exact Gm score)

(as tested with calibrated B&K 707)

12 of 14 6/24/2009 1:25 PM
TubeSound » Blog Archive » B&K 700 & 707 tube tester http://tubesound.com/2008/03/23/bk-707-tube-tester/

RESULTS:

The Hickok tests this triode section at 1850 micromhos (2200 being NOS), which converts to a
percentage score of 84%
The B&K 707 tests this triode at 82%.

Hence, the scores are almost identical. The small deviation is most likely because of the different line
compensation circuitry employed by Hickok and B&K.

regards,
Bob Putnak.
eBay ID = rjputnak

© 2008. All rights reserved.

Article Tags: 650 | 700 | 707 | B&K | calibration | repair | tester | tube | tube tester

< Kenwood KT-917 FM Stereo Tuner

Pages

13 of 14 6/24/2009 1:25 PM
TubeSound » Blog Archive » B&K 700 & 707 tube tester http://tubesound.com/2008/03/23/bk-707-tube-tester/

Sale – Manuals
Sale – Tubes (rare)

Discussion
Automotive
Blog
For Sale
Jukeboxes
Manuals
My Collection
Radios
Test Equipment
Tube Testers
Tubes
Tuners
Wanted

Links
About Me
eBay Store
Feedback

Safety
This website discusses repair of electronic items. Electrical voltages are present and represent a danger.
Repairs should only be attempted by a qualified technician. We do not provide free personalized
troubleshooting.

All content is the opinion of the author and not intended as advice.

TubeSound is powered by WordPress

14 of 14 6/24/2009 1:25 PM