Necchi NC59QD Sewing Machine Instruction Manual

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Instruction Manual

NC-59QD

Enjoy your Necchi time!

NecchiAIO
Important safety instructions
When using an electrical appliance, basic safety should always be followed,
including the following:

Read all instructions before using this sewing machine.

DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:


1. An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in.
2. Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using
and before cleaning.

WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or


injury to persons:
1. Read the instruction carefully before you use the machine
2. Keep the instructions at a suitable place close to the machine and hand it
over if you give the machine to a third party.
3. Use the machine only in dry locations.
4. Never leave the machine unattended with children or elderly people due to
they may not be able to estimate the risk.
5. This appliance can be used by children aged from 8 years and above and
persons with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of
experience and knowledge if they have been given supervision or instruction
concerning use of the appliance in a safe way and understand the hazards
involved.
6. Children shall not play with the appliance.
7. Cleaning and user maintenance shall not be made by children without
supervision.
8. Always switch off the machine if you carry out preparation for work (change
the needle, feed the yarn through the machine, change the footer, etc.).
9. Always unplug the machine if you leave it unattended, to avoid injury by
expediently switch on the machine.
10. Always unplug the machine if you carry out maintenance (oiling, cleaning).
11. Don't use the machine if it’s wet or in humid environment.
12. Never pull at the cord, always unplug the machine by gripping the plug.
13. If the LED lamp is damaged or broken, it must be replaced by the
manufacturer or its service agent or a similarly qualified person, in order to
avoid a hazard.

I
14. Never place anything on the pedal.
15. Never use the machine if the air vents are blocked, keep the air vents of the
machine and the foot pedal free from dust, fusel and leftovers.
16. The machine must only be used with designated foot controller, in order
to avoid a hazard. If the foot controller is damaged or broken, it must be
replaced by the manufacturer or its service agent or a similarly qualified
person.
17. The sound pressure level at normal operation is smaller than 75dB(A).
18. Do not dispose of electrical appliances as unsorted municipal waste, use
separate collection facilities.
19. Contact your local government for information regarding the collection
systems available.
20. If electrical appliances are disposed of in landfills or dumps, hazardous
substances can leak into the groundwater and get into the food chain,
damaging your health and well-being.
21. When replacing old appliances with new ones, the retailer is legally obligated
to take back your old appliance for disposal at least for free of charge.
22. The appliance is not to be used by persons (including children) with reduced
physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge,
unless they have been given supervision or instruction. (For outside Europe)
23. Children being supervised not to play with the appliance. (For outside
Europe)

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS


This sewing machine is intended for household use only.

Be sure to use the sewing machine in the temperature range from 5ºC to 40ºC.
If the temperature is excessively low, the machine can fail to operate normally.

To carry the sewing machine, hold the carrying handle with your hand, and
support the sewing machine with the other hand.

II
Contents
Machine Introduction
Principal parts of the machine................................................................................................. 2
Front overview......................................................................................................................................... 2
Needle area overview.............................................................................................................................. 2
Back overview......................................................................................................................................... 2
Accessories............................................................................................................................... 3
Standard.................................................................................................................................................. 3
Optional................................................................................................................................................... 3
Connecting machine to power source.................................................................................... 4
Polarized plug information....................................................................................................................... 4
Foot control ............................................................................................................................................ 4

Machine Setup
Sewing table.............................................................................................................................. 6
Free arm.................................................................................................................................................. 6
Two-step presser foot lifter...................................................................................................... 7
Adjusting the presser foot pressure....................................................................................... 7
Winding the bobbin................................................................................................................... 8
Inserting the bobbin................................................................................................................ 10
Threading the upper thread.................................................................................................... 11
Bringing up the bobbin thread............................................................................................... 14
Replacing the needle.............................................................................................................. 15
Matching needle/fabric/thread............................................................................................... 16
Changing the presser foot...................................................................................................... 17
Remove the presser foot....................................................................................................................... 17
Attach the presser foot.......................................................................................................................... 17
Remove and insert the presser foot holder........................................................................................... 17
Insert the edge/quilting guide................................................................................................................ 17
To raise or drop the feed dogs............................................................................................... 18
Thread tension......................................................................................................................... 19

Sewing Basics
Operation functions................................................................................................................ 21
How to choose your pattern................................................................................................... 22
Straight stitch.......................................................................................................................... 23
Adjusting the stitch length..................................................................................................................... 23
Changing the needle position................................................................................................................ 23
Zigzag stitch............................................................................................................................ 24
Adjusting the stitch length..................................................................................................................... 24
Adjusting the stitch width....................................................................................................................... 24
Starting to sew......................................................................................................................... 25
Useful skills............................................................................................................................. 27
Reverse sewing..................................................................................................................................... 27
Sewing curves....................................................................................................................................... 27
Sewing corners...................................................................................................................................... 28
Sewing stretch fabrics........................................................................................................................... 28
Sewing thin fabrics................................................................................................................................ 28
Sewing heavy fabric.............................................................................................................................. 29

III
Utility Stitches
Stretch stitch........................................................................................................................... 31
Straight stretch stitch............................................................................................................................. 31
Zigzag stretch stitch.............................................................................................................................. 31
Sewing stretch fabrics and elastic tape................................................................................ 32
Overcasting stitch................................................................................................................... 33
Blind Hem................................................................................................................................. 34
1-Step buttonhole stitch......................................................................................................... 35
Making a buttonhole on stretch fabrics.................................................................................................. 37
Button sewing.......................................................................................................................... 38
Zipper insertion....................................................................................................................... 39
Inserting a centered zipper.................................................................................................................... 39
Inserting a side zipper........................................................................................................................... 40
Satin stitch sewing.................................................................................................................. 42
Gathering................................................................................................................................. 42
Smocking................................................................................................................................. 43
Free motion darning, embroidery and monogramming...................................................... 44
Preparation for embroidering and monogramming................................................................................ 44
Darning.................................................................................................................................................. 45
Embroidery............................................................................................................................................ 45
Monogramming..................................................................................................................................... 45
Quilting .................................................................................................................................... 46
Using the edge/quilting guide................................................................................................................ 46
Joining the pieces of the fabric.............................................................................................................. 46
Patchwork stitching............................................................................................................................... 47
Applique................................................................................................................................... 48
Fagoting................................................................................................................................... 48
Scallop stitch........................................................................................................................... 49
Scallop edging....................................................................................................................................... 49
Shell tuck stitching................................................................................................................................. 49

Maintenance and Trouble shooting


Maintenance............................................................................................................................. 51
Clean the hook...................................................................................................................................... 51
Clean the machine surface.................................................................................................................... 51
Trouble shooting guide........................................................................................................... 52

IV
Machine Introduction
Principal parts of the machine
v Front overview
① Tension dial
② Take-up lever
③ Reverse sewing lever
④ Start/stop button
⑤ Thread cutter
⑥ Sewing table and accessory box
⑦ Speed adjustment slider
⑧ Stitch width dial
⑨ Stitch length dial
⑩ Bobbin winder spindle
⑪ Bobbin winder stopper
⑫ Stitch display

v Needle area overview


① Needle threader
② Buttonhole lever
③ Needle plate
④ Needle clamp screw
⑤ Presser foot

v Back overview
① Horizontal spool pin
② Second spool pin hole
③ Handwheel
④ Pattern selector dial
⑤ Main power switch
⑥ Power cord socket
⑦ Foot control connector
⑧ Bobbin thread guide
⑨ Presser foot pressure dial
⑩ Upper thread guide
⑪ Handle
⑫ Presser foot lifter
⑬ Drop feed lever

2
Accessories
Accessories are stored inside the
accessory box.

v Standard
① All purpose foot (already installed)
② Zipper foot
③ Buttonhole foot
④ Satin stitch foot
⑤ Button sewing foot
⑥ Bobbin (4x) (1x already installed)
⑦ Spool holder (Large)
⑧ Spool holder (Small)
⑨ L-screwdriver
⑩ Pack of Needle: 3x single needles
(75/11, 90/14, 100/16)
⑪ Seam ripper/brush
⑫ Edge/quilting guide
⑬ Spool pin felt
⑭ Second spool pin
⑮ Soft cover

v Optional
① Overcasting foot
② Hemmer foot
③ Gathering foot
④ Blind hem foot
Note
To purchase optional accessories,
please consult your local dealer
for further information.

3
Connecting machine to power source
n Attention
Always make sure that the machine is
unplugged from power source and the main
switch is off ("O"), when the machine is not
in use and before inserting or removing
parts.
Before connecting the power supply, make
sure that the voltage shown on the rating plate
1
is conforming with your main power.
Put the machine on a stable table.
1. Connect the machine to a power source
as illustrated.
2. Turn the power switch to on ("I").
2 ON
The sewing lamp will light up when the switch
is turned on.

OFF

v Polarized plug information


This appliance has a polarized plug (one
blade is wider than the other), to reduce the
risk of electrical shock; this plug will fit in a
polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does
not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it
still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician
to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the
plug in any way.

v Foot control
When the machine is off, insert the foot
control plug into its connector on the machine.
Turn on the machine, and then slowly press
down the foot control to start sewing. Release
the foot control to stop the machine.
Needle up and down: Tap the foot control to
move the needle up and down.

Note
Consult a qualified electrician if in doubt
as to connect the machine to the power
source.

4
Machine Setup
Sewing table
Hold the sewing table horizontally, then pull
toward the left to remove it from the machine.
Attach the sewing table, and then push it to
the right.

The inside space of the sewing table is used


as an accessory box.

v Free arm
Free-arm sewing is convenient for sewing
tubular areas such as pant hems and cuffs.

6
Two-step presser foot lifter
The presser foot lifter is to raise or lower your
presser foot.
When sewing multi-layers or thick fabrics, the
presser foot can be further raised up manually
to allow enough space for your sewing work.

Note
The needle must always be at the highest
position.

Adjusting the presser foot pressure


The presser foot pressure dial is on the top
left of the face plate.
The presser foot pressure of the machine
has been pre-set and requires no particular
adjustment for general sewing.
Basic presser foot pressure setting: "2".
For sewing with very thin fabric, reduce the
pressure by turning the dial counter-clockwise.
If kept turning the dial, it could be take out.
By that time, just turn the screw clockwise,
it could be locked back and readjust the
pressure.
For heavy fabric, increase the pressure by
turning it clockwise. Once dial could not be
moved any further, it has been reached the
bottom, please do not turn any more.

7
Winding the bobbin
It is important to carry out the threading correctly to get a quality sewing. Otherwise
several problems will occur.

1. Place the thread and spool holder onto


the spool pin. For better sewing quality,
choose a proper size of the spool holder
for the thread and attach it next to the
spool.
① Large spool holder
1 2 ② Small spool holder

2. Draw the thread from the spool and place


the thread in between the thread guide.

3. Wind the thread clockwise around the


tension discs.

4. Place the thread end through one of


1 the inner holes as illustrated and place
the empty bobbin on the bobbin winder
spindle. Then align the notch with bobbin
winder spindle spring.
① Notch
② Bobbin winder spindle spring
2

5. Push the bobbin to the right.

8
6. Hold the thread tail securely in one hand.
Step on the foot control or press the start/
stop button to start winding the bobbin.

7. After the bobbin has wound a few rounds,


stop the machine and cut the thread near
the hole of the bobbin. Continue filling
the bobbin until it is full. Once the bobbin
is full, it rotates slowly. Release the foot
control or press the start/stop button to
stop the machine, then push the bobbin
winder spindle to the left.

8. Cut the thread and then remove the


bobbin.
Note
When the bobbin winder spindle is pushed
to the right position, it’s in "bobbin winding"
mode and the machine is not allowed to
sew and the handwheel will not be able
to turn. To start sewing, push the bobbin
winder spindle back to the left.

Note
Use a bobbin that has been correctly
wound with thread, otherwise the needle
may break or the thread tension will be
incorrect.

9
Inserting the bobbin
n Attention
Turn the power switch to off ("O").

When inserting or removing the bobbin, the


needle and the presser foot must be fully
raised.
Open the bobbin cover by pushing the release
button to the right.
① Release button
Insert the bobbin in the bobbin case with
the thread running in a counter-clockwise
1 direction (arrow).

Pull the thread through the slit (A).

With a finger hold gently on top of the bobbin,


please follow the arrow markings and draw
the thread into the bobbin thread guide.

To cut off excessive thread, pull it to the cutter


at point (B).
Close the bobbin cover.

10
Threading the upper thread
It is important to carry out the threading correctly to get a quality sewing. Otherwise
several problems will occur.

ON n Attention
- Turn the power switch to off ("O").
- The needle threader can be with a 75/11
OFF through 100/16 home sewing machine
needle.
1. Raise the presser foot lifter.

2. Turn the handwheel towards you to bring


the needle and take-up lever to highest
position.

3. Place the thread and spool holder onto


the spool pin. For better sewing quality,
choose a proper size of the spool holder
for the thread and attach it next to to the
thread.
① Large spool holder
1 2 ② Small spool holder

11
4. Draw the thread from the spool and place
the thread in between the thread guide.

5. Guide the thread ahead and pull the


thread through the pre-tension spring as
illustrated.

6. Continue to guide the thread into the silver


discs to keep the thread in proper tension.

7. Pass the thread under the take-up spring


then pull it upwards as arrow marks
illustrated.

8. Pull the thread to the top then pass the


thread through the slotted eye of the
take-up lever. Guide the thread down
afterwards.

9. Pass the thread behind the flat, horizontal


thread guide. Use the needle threader to
thread the needle.

12
1 10. Lower the presser foot lifter. Raise the
2 needle to its hightest position by turning
the handwheel toward you until the mark
matched with the line on the machine.
① Mark
② Line on the machine

11. Lower the needle threader lever slowly


and draw the thread through the thread
guide as illustrated and then to the right.
① Lever
② Hook pin

12. The needle threader automatically turns


to the threading position and the hook pin
passes through the needle eye.
① Hook pin
② Needle

1
2

13. Take the thread in front of the needle and


make sure it is under the hook pin.
① Hook pin

14. Hold the thread loosely and release the


lever slowly. The hook turns and passes
the thread through the needle eye forming
a loop.
Pull the thread through the needle eye.

Note
Your machine is threaded and ready for
sewing, follow the instructions on "Starting
to sew" chapter to start sewing.

13
Bringing up the bobbin thread
When sewing gathering or smocking stitch, bring up the bobbin thread first as below
instruction.

Hold the upper thread with your left hand.


Turn the handwheel towards you (counter-
clockwise) to lower the needle down below
the needle plate then raise it to bring the
bobbin thread up.

Gently pull on the upper thread to bring the


bobbin thread up through the needle plate
hole. The bobbin thread will come up in a
loop.

Pull both threads to the back under the


presser foot.

14
Replacing the needle
Change the needle regularly, especially when it shows signs of wear or if it causes
problems.

n Attention
Turn the power switch to off ("O") when
carrying out below operations!
Turn the handwheel toward you to raise the
1
needle then loosen the needle clamp screw to
remove the needle.
① Needle clamp screw

When inserting a new needle, keep the flat


2 side of the shaft to the back.
Push the needle into the clamp until it touches
the pin and stops. Then secure it by tightening
the needle clamp screw.
1 ① Flat side of the shaft
② Pin

Needles must be in perfect condition.

Problems can occur with:


1
① Bent needles
② Blunt needles
2
3 ③ Damaged points

15
Matching needle/fabric/thread

FABRICS THREAD NEEDLE SIZE

Light Thin cottons, voile, serge, Light-duty thread in cotton, 65/9 - 75/11
weight silk, muslin, Qiana, nylon, polyester or cotton
interlocks, cotton knits, wrapped polyester.
tricot, jerseys, crepes,
woven polyester, shirt &
blouse fabrics.

Medium Cotton, satin, kettleclote, Most threads sold are 80/12


weight sailcloth, double knits, medium size and suitable
lightweight woolens. for these fabrics and needle
sizes.
Medium Cotton duck, woolen, Use polyester threads on 90/14
weight heavier knits, terrycloth, synthetic materials and
denims. cotton on natural woven
fabrics for best results.

Heavy Canvas, woolens, outdoor Always use the same thread 100/16
weight tent and quilted fabrics, on top and bottom.
denims, upholstery material
(light to medium).

Note
- In general, fine threads and needles are used for sewing fine fabrics, thicker threads and
needles are used for sewing heavy fabrics.
- Always test thread and needle size on a small piece of fabric which will be used for actual
sewing.
- Use the same thread for needle and bobbin.
- Use a stabilizer or place a backing for fine or stretchy fabrics, and select the correct
presser foot.
- It is recommended that a 90/14 needle should be used when embroidering on heavyweight
fabrics or stabilizing products (for example, denim, puffy foam, etc.). A 75/11 needle may
bend or break, which could result in injury.
- For transparent nylon thread, always use needle 90/14 - 100/16. The same thread is
usually used for the bobbin thread and upper threading.

16
Changing the presser foot
n Attention
- Turn the power switch to off ("O").
- Always use the proper foot for the
selected stitch. The wrong foot can
cause the needle to break.

v Remove the presser foot


Raise the presser foot lifter. Press the back
1 lever to release the presser foot.
① Lever

v Attach the presser foot


Lower the presser foot lifter until the cut-out
meets the pin.
The presser foot will attach to the presser foot
holder automatically.
1
① Cut-out
② Pin
2

v Remove and insert the presser


1 foot holder
Raise the presser foot lifter. Align the presser
foot holder with the lower left side of the
presser bar. Hold the presser foot holder,
2
then tighten the screw using the enclosed
screwdriver.
① Presser foot bar
② Presser foot holder

v Insert the edge/quilting guide


1 Insert the edge/quilting guide in the slot as
illustrated. Adjust the needed width according
to your sewing applications.
① Slot
② Edge/quilting guide
2

17
To raise or drop the feed dogs
The drop feed lever can be seen on the base
at the back side of the sewing machine.
Sliding the drop feed lever to lower or raise
the feed dogs. When lever is in raised
position, the feed dog will arise automatically
when you are sewing.

① Drop feed lever


② Lowered position
③ Raised position
1

2 Note
When you finish the work, (e.g. button
sewing, free motion darning, embroidery
and monogramming), please move the drop
feed lever to raised position for general
sewing purpose.
3

18
Thread tension
Proper tension setting is important for sewing. There is no single tension setting
appropriate for all the stitch functions and fabrics.

Basic thread tension setting: "4".

Normal thread tension for straight stitch


1 sewing.
3 ① Upper thread
2 ② Bobbin thread
③ Surface
④ Wrong side
4

Thread tension is too loose for straight stitch


sewing. Turn the dial to the higher number.

Thread tension is too tight for straight stitch


sewing. Turn the dial to the lower number.

Normal thread tension for zig zag and


decorative sewing.
For all decorative sewing you will always
obtain a nicer stitch and less fabric puckering.
Correct thread tension is when a small
number of the upper thread appears on the
bottom side of fabric.

19
Sewing Basics
Operation functions

Start/stop button
Press the start/stop button to start machine
running. Press the start/stop button again to
stop machine.
This way you may operate the machine
without foot control.

Speed adjustment slider


The speed adjustment slider can control the
sewing speed. To increase the speed, slide
the lever to the right. To decrease the sewing
speed, slide the lever to the left.
The sewing speed can be adjusted without
foot controller.

Needle up and down


Tap the foot control to move the needle up
and down.

21
How to choose your pattern

To select a stitch, simply turn the pattern


selector dial.

n Attention
Please turn the dial in reverse direction
when it reaches " " or " " pattern.

For straight stitch, select pattern " " with the


pattern selector dial.
For zigzag stitch, select pattern " " with the
pattern selector dial. Adjust the stitch length
and stitch width according to the fabric being
used.
To obtain the other patterns, turn the stitch
length dial to "S1" or "S2", select the pattern
desired with pattern selector dial.
① Stitch width dial
② Stitch length dial
③ Stitch display
④ Pattern selector dial

22
Straight stitch
Using the all purpose foot.

v Adjusting the stitch length


Turn the stitch length dial, and the length of
the individual stitches will decrease as the dial
approaches "0". The length of the individual
stitches will increase as the dial approaches
"4".
Generally speaking, the thicker the fabric,
thread and needle, the longer the stitch
should be.

v Changing the needle position


The needle position for straight stitches can
be changed by adjusting the stitch width dial.
The "0" is the center and "7" is full left needle
position.

23
Zigzag stitch
Using the all purpose foot.

v Adjusting the stitch length


The density of zigzag stitches increase as the
setting of stitch length approaches "0".
Neat zig-zag stitches are usually achieved at
"2.5" or below.
Closed up zigzag stitches (close together) are
referred to as a satin stitch.

v Adjusting the stitch width


The width increases as you move stitch width
dial from "0-7".
The width can be reduced on any patterns.

24
Starting to sew
Make sure you follow the needle/fabric/thread combinations and use the suggested
presser foot before sewing.

1. Turn the power switch to on ("I").

2. Turn the handwheel towards you (counter-


clockwise) to bring the needle to highest
position.

3. Raise the presser foot lifter. Turn the


pattern selection dial to select a stitch

4. Place the fabric under the presser foot,


pass the thread under the presser foot,
and then pull out about 10cm of thread
toward the rear of the machine.
① 10cm
1

5. Turn the handwheel toward you (counter-


clockwise) to lower the needle into the
fabric at the beginning of the stitching.

6. Lower the presser foot lifter.

25
7. Slowly press down the foot control or long
press the start/stop button to start sewing.
Release the foot control or press the start/
stop button again to stop the machine.
Note
You can use reverse sewing for back
tacking and reinforcing seams by pressing
the reverse sewing lever. Please refer to
"Useful skills" chapter for more information.

8. Turn the handwheel toward you (counter-


clockwise) to raise the needle. Raise the
presser foot lifter and remove the fabric.

9. Guide both threads to the side of the face


1 plate and into the thread cutter. Pull the
threads down to cut them.
① Thread cutter

26
Useful skills
Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to
these tips when sewing your project.
The results depend on types of fabrics and stitches. Please use the same fabric of the project
and do a sewing test in advance.
For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread that are same as those used for your project
and check the thread tension and stitch length and width.
Since the results differ depending on types of stitching and layers of fabric sewn, perform the trial
sewing under the same conditions that will be used with your project.

v Reverse sewing
Reverse stitching is used to secure the
threads at the beginning and at the end of a
seam.
Press the reverse sewing lever and sew 4-5
stitches.
The machine will sew forward when the lever
is released.

v Sewing curves
Slightly change the sewing direction to sew
around the curve.

When sewing along a curve while using a


zigzag stitch, select a shorter stitch length in
order to obtain a finer stitch.

27
v Sewing corners
Stop the sewing machine when you reach a
corner.
Lower the needle into the fabric. Raise the
presser foot lifter. Use the needle as a pivot
and turn the fabric 90°.

Lower the presser foot lifter and resume


sewing.

v Sewing stretch fabrics


Baste the pieces of fabric together, and then
sew without stretching the fabric.
① Basting
1

v Sewing thin fabrics


When sewing thin fabrics, the stitches may
become misaligned or the fabric may not feed
correctly. If this occurs, place thin paper or
1
stabilizer material under the fabric and sew it
together with the fabric.
When you have finished sewing, tear off any
excess paper.
① Stabilizer material or paper

28
v Sewing heavy fabric
The black button on the right side of the
presser foot will lock the presser foot in a
horizontal position if you push it in before
lowering the presser foot.
This ensures even feeding at the beginning
of a seam and helps when sewing multiple
layers of fabrics such as sewing over seams
when hemming jeans.

When you reach the point of an increased


thickness, lower the needle and raise the
presser foot lifter. Press the toe of the foot
to the horizontal line and push in the black
button, then lower the foot and continue
sewing.
The black button releases automatically after
sewing few stitches.

You can place cardboard or thick fabric with


the same thickness at the back of the seam.
Or support the presser foot while feeding by
hand and sewing toward the folded side.
1 ① Cardboard or thick fabric

29
Utility Stitches
Stretch stitch
Use this stitch with knitted tricot or other stretchy fabrics. The stitch enables your seam to
stretch without breaking the thread.

Good for easy to ravel and knit fabrics.


1
It’s good for joining durable fabric such as
denims.
These stitches can also be used as a
decorative top stitches.
① Stretch stitch
② Straight stitch

Using the all purpose foot.

v Straight stretch stitch


Straight stretch stitch is used to add triple
reinforcement to stretch and hardwearing
seams.

Using the all purpose foot.

v Zigzag stretch stitch


Triple zigzag stretch stitch is suitable for firm
fabrics like denim, poplin, etc.

31
Sewing stretch fabrics and elastic tape
When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a piece of clothing, the finished
dimensions will be that of the stretched elastic tape. Therefore, it is necessary that a
suitable length of the elastic tape be used.

Using the all purpose foot.

2~3 3~7

Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of fabric


at a few points to make sure that the tape is
uniformly positioned on the fabric.
1
① Pin
② Elastic tape
③ Wrong side
2

Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while


stretching the tape so that it is the same
length as the fabric.
While pulling the fabric behind the presser
foot with your left hand, pull the fabric at the
pin nearest the front of the presser foot with
your right hand.

Note
When sewing, be sure that the needle does
not touch any pins, otherwise the needle
may bend or break.

32
Overcasting stitch
Sewing overcasting stitches along the edge of fabric to prevent it from fraying.

Using the all purpose foot.

2~3 3~7

Sewing the overcasting along the edge of the


1 fabric so that the needle drops over the edge
of the fabric on the right side.
① Needle drop point

33
Blind Hem
Secure the bottom of skirts and pants with a blind hem, this stitch will sew with invisible
stitch on the right side of the fabric.

Using the all purpose foot.

1~2 3~7 ① Blind hem for stretch fabrics


② Blind hem/lingerie for firm fabrics
Note
Please use the same fabric of the project
and do a sewing test in advance.

2 2 Fold the fabric as illustrated with the wrong


side up.
① Wrong side
② 5mm
1 1 ③ For heavy weight fabric
④ Overcasting stitch
⑤ For light/medium weight fabric
3 4 5

1 Place the fabric under the foot. Turn the


handwheel forwards until the needle swings
fully to the left. It should just pierce the fold of
the fabric.
① Needle drop point

1 2 Sew slowly, guiding the fabric carefully along


the edge of the guide.
Turn over the fabric.
① Wrong side
② Right side

34
1-Step buttonhole stitch
Buttonholes can be adapted to the size of the button.
For stretch fabric or thin fabric, it is recommended to use a stabilizer for a better
buttonhole sewing. Slightly reduce upper thread tension to produce better results.

Using the buttonhole foot.

5~7 Note
Please use the same fabric of the project
and do a sewing test in advance.

Mark the positions of the buttonhole on the


fabric.
The maximum buttonhole length is 3cm. (Total
of diameter + thickness of button.)
The size of the buttonhole is determined by
the button inserted in the button plate.

Pull the button holder plate to the back, and


place the button in it. Push back the button
holder plate against the button to hold it tight.
Attach the buttonhole foot.
The thread should be passed through the hole
in the presser foot, then be placed under the
foot.

Position the fabric under the presser foot so


that the centerline’s mark is aligning with the
center of the buttonhole foot.
① Starting point
Select the buttonhole stitch. Adjust the stitch
width and the stitch length to the desired width
and density.
1

35
Lower the buttonhole lever and gently push it
back.
① Buttonhole lever

Slightly hold the end of the upper thread and


start sewing. Pull two lines together.

Note
- Gently feed the fabric by hand.
- Before stopping, the machine will
automatically sew a reinforcement stitch
after the buttonhole is sewn.

Raise the presser foot lifter and cut the thread.


To sew over the same buttonhole, raise the
presser foot lifter (it will return to its original
position).
After sewing the buttonhole stitch, raise the
1 buttonhole lever as far as it will go.
① Buttonhole lever

Use the seam ripper to cut the center of


the buttonhole being careful not to cut any
stitches on either side. Use a pin as a stopper
at the bar tack so you do not cut too much.

Note
When cutting the buttonhole with the seam
ripper, do not place your hands in the
cutting direction, otherwise injuries may
result.

36
v Making a buttonhole on stretch
fabrics
When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabric,
hook heavy thread or cord under the
buttonhole foot.
Attach the buttonhole foot. Bring the two gimp
thread ends to the front of the foot and insert
them into the grooves, then tie them there
temporarily. Lower the presser foot lifter and
start sewing.
Set the stitch width to match the diameter of
the gimp thread.
Once sewing is completed, pull the gimp
thread gently to remove any slack. Cross the
gimp in front of the needle and thread gimp
ends into a large needle, pull to the wrong
side and knot ends before cutting excess.
① Wrong side
1
Note
It is suggested that you sew with a stabilizer
material under the fabric.

37
Button sewing
Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine. Buttons with 2 or 4 holes can be
attached.

Using the button sewing foot.

Move the drop feed lever to lower the feed


dogs.
① Lowered position

Put the work under the foot and place the


button in desired position, then lower the foot.
Select the straight stitch and sew a few
securing stitches.

Select the zig-zag stitch and adjust the stitch


width according to the distance between the
two holes of the button.
Turn the handwheel to check that the needle
goes cleanly into the left and right holes of the
button.
Slowly sew on the button with about 10
stitches. Select the straight stitch and sew a
few securing stitches.

For buttons with 4 holes, sew through the


front two holes first, push work forward and
then sew through the back two holes.

When you finish the work, move the drop feed


lever to raise the feed dogs.
① Raised position

38
Zipper insertion
This foot can be set to sew on each side of the zipper, the edge of the foot guides the
zipper to ensure straight placement.

Using the zipper foot.

1.5~3

n Attention
- Zipper foot should be used for sewing
straight stitches only. It is possible that
the needle could hit the presser foot and
break when sewing other stitches.
- When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.

5 3 v Inserting a centered zipper


Place the right sides of the fabric together.
Sew a bottom seam 2cm from the right edge
of the zipper bottom stop position. Sew few
reverse stitches for fixed. Increase the stitch
length to maximum, set the tension below 2
4 4 and baste the remaining length of the fabric.
Press open the seam allowance. Place the
1 1 zipper face down on the seam allowance with
the teeth against the seam line. Baste the
2 zipper tape in place.
① Wrong side
② 2cm
③ 5mm
④ Basting
⑤ Reverse stitches

Attach the zipper foot.


① Attach the right pin for sewing the left side
1 of the zipper.
② Attach the left pin for sewing the right side
of the zipper.
2

39
Stitching around the zipper. Remove the
basting and press.

5 3 v Inserting a side zipper


Place the right sides of the fabric together.
Sew a bottom seam 2cm from the right edge
of the zipper bottom stop position. Sew few
reverse stitches for fixed. Increase the stitch
length to maximum, set the tension below 2
4 and baste the remaining length of the fabric.
Fold back to the left the seam allowance. Turn
1 6 under the right the seam allowance to form a
3mm fold.
2
① Wrong side
② 2cm
③ 5mm
④ Basting
⑤ Reverse stitches
⑥ 3mm

4 Attach the zipper foot. Attach the right pin for


sewing the left side of the zipper. Sew the
zipper to the piece of fabric with the extra
2 3mm, starting from the end of the zipper.
Stop the machine about 5cm from the top of
the zipper. Lowered the needle into the fabric,
raise the presser foot lifter, and then open the
zipper and continue sewing.
3
① 3mm
② The end of zipper
③ 5cm
1

④ Zipper

40
Turn the fabric right side out. Attach the left
pin for sewing the rightside of the zipper.

1 Stitch across the lower end and the right side


of the zipper.
① Lower end
Stop the machine about 5cm from the top of
the zipper. Remove the basting and open the
zipper. Stitch the remaining of the seam.

41
Satin stitch sewing
Use the satin stitch foot for satin stitching and sewing decorative stitches.

Using the satin stitch foot.

0.5~1 Note
When sewing very lightweight fabrics, it is
recommended that you use interfacing or
stabilizer on the wrong side of the fabric.

This foot has a groove on the underside


which allows dense stitching to pass freely
underneath.
To sew the satin or decorative stitch, you
may adjust the length and width of the stitch.
Experiment with fabric scraps until you get the
desired length and width.

Gathering
Ideal for clothing as well as home decor. It works best on thin to medium weight fabrics.

Using the all purpose foot.

4 Before sewing, please check the upper and


bobbin threads are already pulled out about
5cm to leave enough room for sewing. Please
refer to "Bringing up the bobbin thread "
chapter for more information.
Set the tension below 2. Sew a single row (or
many rows) of straight stitches.
1
Pull the bobbin threads and distribute the
gathers evenly. Secure the threads at the
other end.
① Bobbin thread

42
Smocking
The decorative stitch created by stitching or embroidering over gathers is called
"smocking". It is used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs. The smocking stitch adds
texture and elasticity to the fabric.

Using the satin stitch foot.

Increase the stitch length to maximum, set the


tension below 2 and basting lines 1cm across
1 the area to be smocked.
① 1cm
② Basting
2

Knot the threads along one edge.


Pull the bobbin threads and distribute the
gathers evenly. Secure the threads at the
1 other end.
① Bobbin thread

Reduce the tension if necessary and sew


decorative stitches between the straight
seams.

Pull out the basting.

43
Free motion darning, embroidery and
monogramming
v Preparation for embroidering
and monogramming
* Embroidery hoop is not included with the
machine.
Move the drop feed lever to lower the feed
dogs.
① Lowered position

Remove the presser foot and the presser foot


holder.
Draw the desired lettering or design on the
surface of the fabric.
Stretch the fabric between the embroidery
hoop as firmly as possible.
Place the fabric under the needle. Make sure
the presser foot bar is down to its lowest
position.
Turn the handwheel towards you to bring up
the bobbin thread through the fabric. Sew a
few securing stitches at the starting point.
Hold the hoop with thumb and forefinger of
both hands while pressing the material with
the middle and third finger and supporting the
outside of the hoop with your small finger.

n Attention
Keep fingers away from moving parts,
especially needles.

Note
When you finish the work, move the drop
feed lever to raise the feed dogs.
Raised position
1

44
v Darning
First sew around the edges of the hole to
secure the threads. Working from left to
right, sew over the hole in a constant and
continuous movement.
Turn the work by 1/4 and sew over the first
stitching moving the work slower over the hole
to separate the threads and not form big gaps
between the threads.

Note
Free motion darning is accomplished
without the sewing machine internal
feed system. Movement of the fabric is
controlled by the operator. It is necessary
to coordinate sewing speed and movement
of fabric.

v Embroidery
Stitch along the outline of the design by
moving the embroidery hoop. When sewing,
make sure to maintain a constant speed.

Fill in the design working from the outline


towards the inside. Keep the stitches close
together.
You will get longer stitches by moving the
hoop faster and shorter stitches by moving
the hoop slower.
Secure with reinforcement stitches at the end
of the design.

v Monogramming
Sew at constant speed, moving the
embroidery hoop slowly along the lettering.
When the letter is finished, secure with
reinforcement stitches at the end of the
design.

45
Quilting
Sandwich batting between the top and bottom layers of fabric is call "Quilting". The
top layer is usually formed by multiple geometrically shaped pieces of materials joined
together.

Using the all purpose foot with edge/quilting


guide.

3~4

v Using the edge/quilting guide


Attach the edge/quilting guide in the presser
foot holder as illustrated and set the space as
you desire.

Sew the first row and move over the fabric


to sew successive rows with the guide riding
along the previous row of stitching.

Using the all purpose foot.

1~3

2 v Joining the pieces of the fabric


Place the two pieces of fabric with the right
side together and sew with the straight stitch.
Join the pieces of fabric with a seam
allowance of 5mm.
Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned
1 1 with the edge of the fabric.
① Wrong side
② 5mm

46
Using the all purpose foot or satin stitch foot.

v Patchwork stitching
Place the two fabrics, right sides together and
sew using a straight stitch.
Open the seam allowance and press it flat.
① Wrong side
1 1

Working on the right side of the fabric, place


the center of the presser foot on the seam line
of the joined fabrics and stitch over the seam.

47
Applique
You can create and applique by cutting a different piece of fabric into a shape and using it
as a decoration.

Using the all purpose foot.

0.5~1 3~7

Cut out the applique design and baste it on


1 the fabric. Sew slowly around the edge of the
design.
① Basting
Trim the excess material outside the stitching.
Make sure not to cut any stitches. Remove
the basting.

Fagoting
Stitching across an open seam is called "fagoting". It is used on blouses and children's
clothing. This stitch is more decorative when thicker thread is used.

Using the all purpose foot.

1 Separate the folded edges of the fabric pieces


with a gap of 4mm and baste them onto a
2
piece of thin paper or water-soluble stabilizer
sheet.
① 4mm
3
② Thin paper or water-soluble stabilizer
③ Basting

Align the center of the presser foot with the


center of the two pieces of fabric and begin
sewing.
After sewing, remove the stabilizer and
basting.

48
Scallop stitch
The wave-shaped repeating stitch, that looks like shells, is called "scalloping". It is used
to decorate the collar of blouses and the edges of knitting projects.

Using the satin stitch foot or all purpose foot.

0.5~1

v Scallop edging
Stitch along the edge of the fabric, making
sure not to sew directly on the edge of the
fabric.
For better results, apply spray starch onto the
fabric and press with a hot iron before it is
sewn.
Trim the fabric close to the stitching taking
care not to cut the stitches.

Using the all purpose foot.

2~3 3~7

v Shell tuck stitching


Use a lightweight fabric (tricot, for example).
Fold the fabric along the bias.
When the needle swings to the right, allow
the needle to just clear the folded edge of the
fabric.

After stitching, open the fabric and iron press


the tucks flat to one side.

49
Maintenance and
Trouble shooting
Maintenance
n Attention
Disconnect the power cord from the
wall socket before carrying out any
maintenance, otherwise injury or electrical
shock may result.

v Clean the machine surface


If the surface of the sewing machine is dirty,
lightly soak a cloth in mild detergent, squeeze
it out firmly and then wipe the surface. After
cleaning it once in this way, wipe the surface
again with a dry cloth.
Do not use any organic solvents or detergents

v Clean the hook


If lint and bits of thread accumulate in the
2 hook, this will interfere with the smooth
operation of the machine. Check regularly
2 and clean the stitching mechanism when
3 necessary.
Remove the needle, presser foot and presser
foot holder.
1 Remove the bobbin cover and bobbin.
Remove the screws on the needle plate then
remove the needle plate.
① Bobbin cover
② Screws
③ Needle plate

Clean the feed dogs and bobbin case with


a brush. And also use a soft and dry cloth to
clean them.

51
Trouble shooting guide
Before calling for service, check below trouble shooting guides in advance, if problem still
exist, please contact nearest dealer or local service center.

Problem Cause Correction Reference

1. The machine is not threaded 1. Rethread the upper thread. 11


correctly.
2. The thread tension is too tight. 2. Reduce the thread tension (to 19
lower number).
3. The thread is too thick for the 3. Select a larger needle size.
Upper needle. 16
thread
breaks 4. The needle is not inserted 4. Remove and reinsert the
correctly. needle (flat side towards the 15
back).
5. The thread is wound around 5. Remove the reel and wind up 8
the spool holder pin. the thread onto the reel.
6. The needle is damaged. 6. Insert a new needle. 15
1. The bobbin case is not inserted 1. Remove and reinsert the
Bobbin correctly. bobbin case and pull on the 10
thread thread.
breaks 2. The bobbin case is threaded 2. Check both bobbin and bobbin 10
wrong. case if on the correct position.
1. The needle is not inserted 1. Remove and reinsert the
correctly. needle (flat side towards the 15
back).
2. The needle is damaged. 2. Insert a new needle. 15
Skipped 3. The wrong size needle has 3. Choose a needle to suit the
stitches 16
been used. thread.
4. The presser foot is not attached 4. Check and attach it correctly. 17
correctly.
5. The machine is not threaded 5. Rethread the upper thread. 11
correctly.
1. The needle is damaged. 1. Insert a new needle. 15
2. The needle is not correctly 2. Insert the needle correctly (flat 15
inserted. side towards the back).
3. Wrong needle size for the 3. Choose a needle to suit the 16
fabric. thread and fabric.
4. The wrong presser foot is 4. Select the correct presser foot.
Needle -
attached.
breaks
5. The needle clamp screw is 5. Use the screwdriver to tighten 15
loose. the screw.
6. The presser foot is not 6. Attach appropriate presser foot
appropriate for the type of for the type of stitch that you -
stitch that you sew. sew.
7. The upper thread tension too 7. Loosen the upper thread 19
tight. tension.

52
Problem Cause Correction Reference

1. The machine is not correctly 1. Check the threading and 11


threaded. rethread.
2. The bobbin case is not 2. Thread the bobbin case as
Loose 10
threaded correctly. illustrated.
stitches
3. Needle/fabric/thread 3. The needle size must suit the
combination is wrong. fabric and thread. 16

4. The thread tension is wrong. 4. Correct the thread tension. 19


1. The needle is too thick for the 1. Select a correct needle size. 16
fabric.
Seam gather
or pucker 2. The stitch length is wrong. 2. Adjust the stitch length. 23
3. The thread tension is too tight. 3. Loosen the thread tension. 19
1. The needle thread tension is 1. Loosen the thread tension. 19
too tight.
2. The needle thread is not 2. Rethread the machine. 11
threaded correctly.
Seam 3. The needle is too heavy for the 3. Choose a needle to suit the 16
puckering fabric being sewn. thread and fabric.
4. The stitch length is too long for 4. Adjust the stitch length shorter. 23
the fabric.
5. Sewing on thin fabric. 5. Sew with a stabilizer material 28
under the fabric.
1. The presser foot is not suited 1. Select the correct foot. -
stitches are for the stitch.
distorted 2. The needle thread tension is 2. Loosen the thread tension. 19
too tight.
1. Thread is caught in the hook. Remove the upper thread and
Thread has bobbin case, turn the handwheel
51
jammed 2. The feed dogs are packed with backwards and forwards and
lint. remove the thread remnants.
1. Fluff or oil have collected on 1. Clean the hook and feed dog. 51
the hook or needle bar.
2. The needle is damaged. 2. Insert a new needle. 15
The machine
is noisy 3. Thread is caught in the hook. Remove the upper thread and
bobbin case, turn the handwheel
51
4. The feed dogs are packed with backwards and forwards and
lint. remove the thread remands.

1. Poor quality thread. 1. Select a better quality thread. 16


2. The bobbin case is threaded 2. Remove the bobbin case and
Uneven uncorrect. the thread and reinsert them 10
stitches, correctly.
uneven feed
3. Fabric has been pulled on. 3. Do not pull on the fabric while
sewing, let it be taken up by -
the machine.

53
Problem Cause Correction Reference

1. The machine is not turned on. 1. Turn on the machine. 4


The sewing
machine 2. The presser foot lifter is raised. 2. Lower the presser foot lifter. 7
doesn't
operate 3. The machine is not plugged in. 3. Connect the power cord to the 4
electric outlet.

54
Do not dispose of electrical appliances as unsorted municipal waste, use separate collection
facilities.
Contact your local government for information regarding the collection systems available.
If electrical appliances are disposed of in landfills or dumps, hazardous substances can leak
into the groundwater and get into the food chain, damaging your health and well-being.
When replacing old appliances with new ones, the retailer is legally obligated to take back your
old appliance for disposal at least for free of charge.

QD80AE(EN)

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