1017 Annie Cardigan Sewing Instructions

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#1017 ANNIE

multi-sized pattern : XXS, XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL

The perfect cardigan with a wide hem band


and front patch pockets.
SKILL LEVEL - sewsewdefmag.com
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index

TABLE OF CONTENTS: PAGE

Cover. 1.

Table of Contents. 2.

Contact us. 2.
CONTACT US:
Measuring. 3

Sizing Chart. 4.

Printing the Pattern. 5. [email protected]


Taping the PDF Pages. 6.

Shopping/Fabrics . 7.

Pattern Info. 8.
Pattern Pieces. 9.

Working with Stretch. 10 - 11.

Fabric Requirements. 12.

Cutting Layouts. 12.

Sewing Instructions. 13- 16.

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measuring
SIZING CHART- Our patterns are designed to be “true-to-size”. There is not a lot of extra ease
loaded into the styles so please choose the size that is closest to your own body measurements. The
patterns can be altered to fit your size and shape. We would recommend that you make a test fitting
sample before cutting into your main fabric - similar weight fabric to your intended final garment is a must
for test fitting. Your test sample can be constructed from the main pattern pieces so you can fine tune for any
fit variances.

PATTERN XXS XS S M L XL 2XL


SIZE

equivalent to :

US 4 6 8 10 12-14 14-16 18-20

AUSTRALIAN/ 6 8 10 12 14-16 18-20 20-22


UK

EU 32 34 36 38 40-42 44-46 46-48

32” 34” 36” 38” 41” 44” 47”


Bust 80cms 85cms 90cms 95cms 102.5cms 110cms 117.5cms

24” 26” 28” 30” 33” 36” 39”


Natural Waist 60cms 65cms 70cms 75cms 82.5cms 90cms 97.5cms

34” 36” 38” 40” 43” 46” 49”


Full Hip 86cms 91cms 96cms 101cms 108.5cms 116cms 123.5cms
(20cms below waist)

1.

3.

Sizing your garment will be based on 3 main measurements.


1. Bust Circumference. Horizontal measurement at fullest part of the bust making sure the tape
measure is horizontal around the body.
2. Waist Circumference. Horizontal measurement at natural waist (your belly button is not your waist).
3. Hip Circumference. Horizontal measurement at fullest part of your hip line. Try different positions - 
abdomen, buttocks and high thighs and use the biggest measure.
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sizing

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Finished Garment Measurements (approx.)

PATTERN
XXS XS S M L XL 2XL
SIZE

33" 35" 37" 39" 41" 43" 45"


Bust Circumference 84 cms 89 cms 94 cms 99 cms 104 cms 109 cms 114 cms

32¼" 34¼" 36¼" 38¼" 40¼" 42¼ " 44¼"


Waist Circumference 82 cms 87 cms 92 cms 97 cms 102 cms 107 cms 112 cms

35½" 37½" 39½" 41½" 43½" 45½" 47½"


Hip Circumference 90 cms 95 cms 100 cms 105 cms 110 cms 115 cms 120 cms

22" 22½" 23" 23 ½" 24" 24½" 25"


Sleeve Length (including cuff) 56.8 cms 57.4 cms 58 cms 58.6 cms 59.2 cms 59.8 cms 60.4 cms

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printing info
PRINTING -
This pattern includes layers that allow you to choose the sizes that you wish to print on both the Print-
at-Home and A0 Copy Shop PDF. Please refer to the size chart given at the beginning of these
instructions as our garments are “true-to-size”.

In Adobe Reader, click on the layers icon which is on the left hand side of the black navigation bar.
Click on the eyeball to turn the size layers on or off.
If you are grading multiple sizes (please refer to the size chart), make sure to have displayed (turned on)
all the sizes you need. Or you can just print your single size if you are standard to the sizing chart. If you
are printing at a copy shop, be sure to specify which size/layers you want them to print.

Make sure before printing that your scaling is turned “off” in the printer’s dialogue box and that it is set
to scale at 100%. (Or page scaling should be set to none- each printer has a different dialogue box so
double check!!). Ensure that page “orientation” is also set to “Auto/portrait Landscape”.
Print out the pattern page that contains the calibration square - page 2.
Measure the square (5cms or 2”) to make sure that your pattern piece was printed to the correct size.
Page 6 details how many tiles for the Annie Cardigan and taping order.

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pattern tiles

TAPING THE ANNIE


CARDIGAN PATTERN
TOGETHER.

Cut off the borders as indicated.


You don’t have to cut off all
edges as we have provided a
“symbol” that shows which
edges to cut off.

Once all necessary edges are cut


you can then tape your pattern
together matching the light gray
circles and work in numerical
order. This is your template after
taping together. The template
consists of 29 pattern tiles.

Tiles run 1- 6 across the top of


the template and the
subsequent tiles run as shown in
the diagram. Please ensure that
you match up the circle symbol
when taping the edges.

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info
SHOPPING LIST FABRIC
Please use the following only as a suggestion.
Depending on your skill level you should choose the
- Fabric and matching color thread.
appropriate weight fabric.
- 1 packet of Size 80 ball point sewing machine
Jersey with AT LEAST 25 % stretch across the width
needles (See additional information on Page 10)
of the fabric.
- Minimum of 3 x button = ¾" (2cms) diameter
Cottons, Poly-Cotton, Rayon-Cotton,
Bamboo-Cotton mixes.
Sweater/Jumper Knits and sweater/jumper knit
mixes.

SEAM ALLOWANCES are included. All main seams have ¼" (6mm) unless otherwise stated.
THIS WILL BE CLEARLY INDICATED AT EACH STEP METHOD.

STORING YOUR PATTERN - As this pattern is a multi-sized one it is best to trace off your size
with tissue or similar paper and leave the taped template intact. That way if you happen to have a
missing pattern piece or you need to make body size adjustments in the future you will still have the
master at hand. For storage of the master you could hang it up with bull-dog clips on a coat hanger in a
spare wardrobe or fold it flat and store in a large zip-lock bag.

TERMS OF USE
This pattern can be used to make garments for personal use only.
No part of this document may be sold or re-distributed in any form including digital and/or printed
form.
If your family and friends would like to have a copy of this pattern, please ask them to purchase their
own at www.sewsewdefmag.com

Why don’t you visit sewsewdefmag.com for more ideas, tips, tricks and tutorials.
We would love you to say HELLO !!!!
#annie.....#anniecardigan.....#sewsewdefmag..... @sewsewdefmag

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info
PRE-WASH YOUR FABRICS
Wash your fabrics as you would wash any similar garment. Your fabric must be washed/laundered prior
to cutting out your garment as this will circumvent any shrinkage that may occur in your fabric. If you are
not sure how your fabric will react please wash a test square first. If there is no change to the test square
fabric then it can be laundered successfully either by a gentle machine wash setting or by hand washing.

PATTERN SYMBOLS AND MEANINGS.


SIZE KEY
CUT ON FOLD

Cut on fold of Fabric

Cut on Straight Grain of Fabric


Parallel to the selvedge.
STRAIGHT GRAIN

XXS
Notch - match point to align two XS
pattern pieces together.
S
Lengthen or Shorten Line.
Pattern is cut along these lines to either shorten or add extra M
length.
Seam Allowances. L
Seam allowances will vary throughout the pattern. At each
sewing step the required seam allowances will be clearly XL
stated.

Sides of the Fabric. 2XL

RIGHT SIDE WRONG SIDE INTERFACING

Follow the relevant Size Key line for


your size as defined in this chart.

DEFINITIONS.
STAY STITCHING - a row of larger length machine stitches that prevents the garment edge from stretch-
ing while handling.
UNDER STITCHING - a row of machine stitching to keep the seam allowance “under” the garment. Made
by pressing seam allowance towards the facing and then stitching close to the edge (⅛") (2-3mm) of the
seam on the facing side on the top-side of the garment. Ensure that the seam allowance is caught on the
underside.
TOP STITCHING - A row of stitching very close to the edge of a seam or garment. It is also known as
edge-stitching - and hence the name - sew on the top-side of the garment.
WRST - With right sides of fabric together.
CF - Centre Front
CB - Centre Back © designerstitch.com
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pattern pieces

To make the Annie please use the relevant pattern pieces.


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1. Back - Cut 1 on Fold 6. Front Band - Cut 2


2. Front - Cut 2 7. Pocket - Cut 2
3. Sleeve - Cut 2
4. Sleeve Cuff - Cut 2
5. Lower Band - cut 1 Fold

3 5
1 2
4 7

6
SHOULDER POINT

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working with stretch fabrics


NEEDLES. PINS.

Ballpoint needles have Glass head pins are


a rounded tip which lovely and fine so are
pushes through the knit easy to pin through
fabric without spearing the knit fabric.
the fibers.

STRETCH STITCHES ON A DOMESTIC SEWING MACHINE.


Do not use a straight stitch - your seams will snap when stretched on the body!

BASIC ZIG-ZAG OR TRIPLE STITCH TRIPLE STEP STRAIGHT STITCH


STITCH A slow stitch to complete but ensures a strong
Use a setting of 3 width (approx.) and flexible stitch.

DOUBLE OVERLOCK STITCH STRETCH OVERLOCK


Allows a flexible stitch and best sewn Allows a flexible stitch and best sewn with an
with an overcasting foot. overcasting foot.
The above is a guide only. Please refer to your machine owners manual for detailed stitch selection.

SERGER/OVERLOCKER MACHINE.
A machine that utilizes 4 to 8 spools of thread that gives a sturdy flexible stretch stitch.
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working with stretch fabrics


WALKING FOOT.
The walking foot literally walks the fabric through your machine. With a set of top feed dogs
the walking foot allows for an even feed of your fabric and alleviates the top fabric from
"traveling" as you sew. This bar sits on top of the needle clamp/
screw bar and works with the motion of
the needle.

7 1/2 INCHES (18.5cms)


Feed dogs that "walk" over the fabric
for an even feed.

6 INCHES (15cms)
TWIN NEEDLE.
Using 2 spools of thread on your sewing machine a
twin-needle stitch allows for a seam that has elasticity.
The needles come in a variety of sizes.

FABRIC STRETCH GUIDE.


Please use this guide to determine the
stretch ratio of your knit fabric. The
recommendation of best fabric for this
tee is 25% stretch. Fold your fabric in
1/2 and place 2 pins 6"(15cms) apart.
Stretch the fabric (not overstretching)
to the 7 1/2"(18.25cms) and measure
on the guide line.

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fabric req's
Using the following Fabric Requirements chart.
This is only to be used as a guide. It is HIGHLY recommended that once you have your pattern pieces ready
you use a piece of fabric from your stash and lay out your pattern using the layout guide. If you lay your pat-
tern pieces you WILL be able to calculate your yardage/ meterage as less than indicated in the charts.

Fabric Requirements ( Yards/Metres)


Additional fabric may be required for directional/one way print designs

ANNIE CARDIGAN
SIZE XXS XS S M L XL 2XL
150cms / 60” 1 ⅝ yds 1 ⅝ yds 1 ¾ yds 1 ¾ yds 2 yds 2 yds 2 yds
1.50m 1.50m 1.60 m 1.60 m 1.80 m 1.80 m 1.80 m

150cms / 60”

SELVEDGE
6
7 Cutting Layout for Sizes XXS - XS.
3
Fold the fabric in half so selvedges meet.
2 Cut all pattern pieces.
5 Please note: Pattern pieces 4 and 5 can be cut from a contrast
1 4 ribbing or related knit.

FOLDLINE

SELVEDGE Cutting Layout Sizes S to 2XL.


6
Fold the fabric in half so selvedges meet.
7 4 Cut all pattern pieces.
2
Please note: Pattern pieces 4 and 5 can be cut from a contrast
3 5 ribbing or related knit.

1
FOLDLINE

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sewing instructions
Please ensure all pattern markings are transferred Step 3 - Side Seams
to wrong side of fabric. (Seam Allow ¼" (6mm))
Ensure notches are also marked.
WRST pin sides seams/sleeve seams as one
continuous step. Stitch. Press seams towards back.
ANNIE CARDIGAN
Step 1 - Shoulder Seams
(Seam Allow ¼" (6mm))

WRST pin front and back shoulders. Stitch. Press.

Step 4 - Lower Band


(Seam Allow ¼" (6mm))

With wrong side together fold lower band in ½ length


ways. Pin to hold. WRST pin lower band to bottom
Step 2 - Sleeve to Armhole edge of cardigan transferring pins as you go. You may
(Seam Allow ¼" (6mm)) have to stretch the lower band slightly. Stitch. Press.
WRST pin sleeve to match armhole ensuring notches
are matched. Stitch. Complete both sleeves. Press.

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sewing instructions
Step 5- Front Band to Body Step 7- Sleeve Cuff to Sleeve
(Seam Allow ¼" (6mm)) (Seam Allow ¼" (6mm))

WRST pin and stitch bands togther at end where WRST insert sleeves into cuffs. Pin cuffs to cut edges
shoulder notch is indicated. WRST fold front band in ½ of sleeve edges stretching cuffs to match sleeve. Pin in
length ways. Pin lower edges of band and stitch across place. Stitch. Press.
each end. Turn to right sides. Pin entire length of band
and baste to hold. Press.
Pin front band to front edge of body matching
shoulder notches indicated on pattern to shoulder
seams. Continue pinning band around back neck
ensuring you stretch this band area to match back
neck. You may have to snap the basting stitch to allow
band to stretch.

Step 8- Front Pocket


(Seam Allow ⅜" (1cm))

WRST fold pocket edge over at fold line and stitch.

Step 6- Sleeve Cuff Preparation Step 9- Front Pocket cont'


(Seam Allow ¼" (6mm)) (Seam Allow ⅜" (1cm))

WRST pin sleeve cuff in ½ width ways and pin. Stitch. Fold out pocket facing to wrong side. Turn pocket
Turn to right sides. With wrong sides together fold edge ⅜" (1cms) and pin in place. Press. Top-stitch
sleeve cuff in half length ways. Pin and baste to hold. pocket facing edge only from correct side.

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sewing instructions
Step 10- Front Pocket cont'
Place on front body and pin in place. Top-stitch edge
of pocket.

CONTACT US.

[email protected]
Step 11 - Hemming.

The edge seams of the bands can be top stitched or


twin needled depending on the stretch factor of your
chosen fabric.

For button placement try your cardigan on and mark


desired button and buttonhole position.

Press and enjoy wearing your new Annie Cardigan!


Well Done!
#annie...#anniecardigan....
#sewsewdefmag..... @sewsewdefmag

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sewing instructions

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