Janome 605 Sewing Machine Instruction Manual

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MODEL

605
Super Automatic Full Zigzag
This is the highest quality super automatic full zigzag sewing
machine which has the following superior features.
1. Zigzag width of 7 mm. (0.28 inch) will enhance the beauty
of zigzag patterns.
2. Super pattern elongator will give you a good few super pattern
variations.
3. Buttonhole device is built-in and a quantity of attatchments will
facilitate many practical sewing applications.
4. Free arm is ideal for stitching cuffs and sleeves, decorative
bands. and other tubular areas.
5. Chainstitching device will be found useful for many sewing jobs.
6. Rotary shutHle, which is free from thread jamming trouble,
will increase sewing speed and offer you quiet sewing.

I I-s0= Q I~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
CONTENTS
NAMES OF PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS ................. 4
24 PATTERN CAM S ..............................................6
TO USE SEW ING GUIDE ....... ..................................... .. 7
PRIMARY PREPARATION FOR SEWING ........................... 8.......8
TO ATTACH EXTENSION PLATE ...............................................8
TO USE SEW LIGHT 9...............
TO USE FOOT CONTROL ............. ........................... 9
CORRECT NEEDLE AND THREAD FOR CORRECT CLOTH ... 10
TO SEE IF NEEDLE IS BENT OR BLUNT........ -- ............ -- ...... 10
TO INSERT NEEDLE ... ............. ............. 11
TO WIND BOBBIN .............................................. 12
* To Adjust Bobbin Winding Device ......................... 13
TO INSERT BOBBIN INTO BOBBIN CASE ....................... ......... 14
TO INSERT BOBBIN CASE INTO MACHINE ............. ...... ...15
TO THREAD NEEDLE ............................................... 16
* Tilting Spool for Prevention of Thread Tangling .... .............. 16
TO DRAW UP LOWER THREAD ...........................-.......-....---. 18
TO SEW STRAIGHT SEAM ..... ......................................... 19
TO START TO SEW ................. ............. ................. 20
TO TURN CORNER ................................... 21
* To Adjust Pressure of Presser Bar to Cloth ........... ............... 21
TO FINISH SEAM. ..... .......................................... 22
* To Regulate Thread Tensions ..................... .... ... ...... 23
TO SEW TUBULAR AREAS ............. .................................. 24
APPLICATIONS OF FREE ARM FEATURE ........... ................. 25
TO SEW CHAIN STITCH SEAM.................... ......................... 28
TO INSERT CHAIN LOOPER ...................... ......... 29
TO THREAD FOR CHAINSTITCHING ...................................... 30
* To Regulate Thread Tension .............................................. 30
TO FINISH SEAM ... ... ........ ............... .......... .... ...31
TO LOCK THREAD ............. ............ .............. ........ 31
TO REMOVE SEAM ................. ......................... 32
CORRECTION OF SKIPPED STITCHES ............................ 32
TO CHANGE FROM CHAINSTITCHING TO LOCK
STITCHING .................................--........... 32
APPLICATIONS OF CHAINSTITCHING ..... .--- ................. 33
ZIGZAG SEWING ............................................... 34
Thread Tension for Zigzag Sewing ........ ............-.... 35
2
AUTOMATIC ZIGZAG PATTERN SEWING ............................... 36
SUPER PATTERN ELONGATOR ...... .......................... 37
TO CHANGE PATTERN CAMS ........................... ..... 38
TWIN NEEDLE SEWING ................................ 39
INSERT CAM PATTERNS ......... .......................40
PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS ...... .......................... 44
BUTTONHOLE SEWING. ................................ 44
To Adjust Buttonhole Stitches ................................ 46
CLOTH GUIDE ................................ 47
BUTTON SEWING ............................ 48
HEMMING ................................ 50
SEWING ON ZIP ................................ 52
QUILTING. ................................ 53
BLIND STITCH HEMMING ................................ 54
APPLIQUE ................................ 56
BRAID SEWING. ................................ 57
STRETCH MATERIAL SEWING ......... ....................... 58
MATTING or DRAWN STITCHES ................................ 59
FRINGING ............. 60
SCALLOPING .................. 62.............
PIN TUCKING ........... ........... ........ 64
SHELL TUCKING .................. 65
SMOCKING ................................ 66
FAGOTING. ........... ,.,.67
INTERFACING .. ........ 6.
LACE EDGING ......... 68
EMBROIDERING .................. 69
FILLING STITCH .. ............-. , , ,. 70
MULTIPLE STITCH ZIGZAG SEWING or TRICOT STITCH ... 71
TO KEEP YOUR MACHINE IN THE BEST CONDITION ..... -- ...72
TO OIL MACHINE.......... ...........----....................72
TO CLEAN FEED TEETH .................. ,.,. 74
TO DISMANTLE AND CLEAN SHUTTLE RACE-............ ......... 75
TO ADJUST MOTOR BELT TENSION ............................ ......... 78
UNSATISFACTORY CONDITIONS: CAUSES AND REMEDIES ..... 79

3
NAMES OF PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS

c mptfiment lid
. .caim

pi-~~'"

pl.19fs pl,s,. i-rtE r

!. pOttod
ba- I! I

press.I bar .
,,read cutte needl clamp

srew (thread
>2 screwSUitable height of
feed teeth is selctIed
Q
thumb
scf g uldes - willi this knob,

a,verage end
2..
ZIQC wymtra eed teeth
tzgfo
1 .. he.
liagte(r iI
4 \l cwSial
0,finishing
egto WQ,l
button s_wing
feed
tee erodery
needle plate needlehole darning
~
<~e~1l ~tec>ir och ~universal dial

needle Positions 4j
straight Stitch STRAIGHT ----
twin needle TWIN >'t~
soing
buttonhole sewing I *O 2.*3*2S
cam exchange OFF Lid opens.

L..~~
A-~~~~ tw~,er atr ton
turn in 4 direction
setat centre,

turn in - direction

a 4 ~~01 2 3 4

ad change stitch length


1
P Os40thold thia k,nob
l i
~vrlt>
-~ndP4 * 0 1 3 5 7

so stitch length at -u-

.d change zigzag wIdth

2i92.g~~d,ttt,W,Itef.~
24 PATTERN CAMS
The 24 ihsert pattern cams will enable you
to sew beautiful decorative patterns. Also
they are useful in miany sewing applications.
TO USE SEWING GUIDE

The sewing guide will tell you how to set the


machine at a glance. See the desired pattern in
the lower square window and set the controls
according to the numbers shown in the round
windows. Also select the sewing foot according to
the diustration shown in the upper square window.

7
PRIMARY PREPARATION FOR SEWING

Before you begin to sew, learn primary preparation for


sewing, i.e., -CORRECT NEEDLE AND TIIREAD
FOR CORRECT CLOTIH", TO THREAD NEEDLE",
etc.

TO ATTACH EXTENSION PLATE


1. Turnt down tire extensio<n plhte
catch A rupport legs with the left hand
t -t 2. Slidc the extlension plate in carefully
, ,y,i to the rigit, allowing the cateh A to
cringage in thte corresponding hiole
r ;tt " pin Bt ~ in the free arm and thc pin B in the
hole at [ihe left crid of the free arm.

Turn down legs. Case


~ of spotsr ~awng
MS,
eacrt PO9 snai plate f1 s

8
TO USE SEWLIGHT
Sewight is connected directl v
to the maiin supplY lead of the
machine when the motol plug
is inserted inito the connector.
This results in the light acting
as a 55arning when the machille
i, coriecteld to the electiricit
suppl-.

To change the electric bulb, swing


open the face plate, Then the bulb
can be unscrewed,\
In the caseof bayonet type bulb, -ThY ½
remilove the bulb by slighitly pushing
it upward and twisting it antiPclock-
wise, and then place a new bulb by |
fitting the pins on the bulb against i
the slot, pushing upward and twisting
it clockwise,

TO USE FOOT CONTROL


Place the foot control in such a press brd run fast
position that your foot rests con>-
fortably on it. Press the foot control
while curning the balance wheel lo-
wards you with your right hand-.
You control the speed of Ithe machine
with tie foot control lisht pressure
gning low speed and harder pressure
higiler speed.

9
CORRECT NEEDLE AND THREAD FOR CORRECT CLOTH

Needles Cloth Size of Threads


No. 9 Thin} calico. silk, serge and No. 80-100 cotton thread or
muslin. fine silk thread.
Thin calico, cotton cloth, No 60-I10 cottok thread or
No. i crepe de Ch1ine, hlosierygrdinay
and s)il thread.
silk. orditiary sdk thread.
Ordinary cotton cloth, tliiik No. 40-60 cotton thiread or
No. 14 silk, thin woollen goods. ordinary silk thread.
towels and shinintig. riayslktrad

No. 16 TIick cotton cloth, serge and No. 30-60 cotton thread or
thin woollen goods. ordinary silk tliread.
Ordinary woollen goods No 06ctonlradf
No. I8 trousers, over-coats, thiick N.3-0cto hedo
calico) anid chiildren's clothkes, ordinary silk thiread.
Twini Calico, silk, serge, cottonl
Needle cloth anid thtini woollen No. 40-80 cotton thiread or
No. 14 goods. ordinary silk thread.
N.
1.. ..
SS 4 ersey tricot and all synthietic No. 50-100 nylon thiread, or
scarfed stretch materials. Not IhrSa sik or cottod,
necedlethed
Nl If god 1piality nirten/ted otton threacl, if abtc. to avoid

TO SEE IF NEEDLE IS BENT OR BLUNT

10
lass or tat piate
_ 'cL f
X \

10
TO INSERT NEEDLE
Iiisert the needle in the order
of 1, 2. 3, 4. and 5.

I. Raise thle needle and the take-up


lever both to thecir hiighiest poinit.
2. Loosen the needle clamip screw.
3, Tuirn the tlat sidle of the nieedle
to the hack,

4. hInsert the needlle as highi as it


will go until it hits pin.
5. 'lighiten thle needle clamp scewex

* if the needi. is not, dorrtly,


...... it ,,av reultA il, uPper thred breskinq,
a ment 11eedl, akipped Ititches aere cock,r, or d.rrtag to the eh.tti. hook
•If tse needle c ,..psce i, not slItigrt fml the needle ...ny f.1l out to
break titea,
TO WIND BOBBIN

1 Place a spool of thread on the pool pin on thc back of the arm. Pass tIhe
thread thirough the thread guides (A) and (B). Pass the end of the thread through
one of the holes in the bobbin (C). Then place (tic bobbin on the bobbin winder
spiidle with the notch of the bobbin againist the spring of the spindle.

Cut thread,

hread.

2. Depress the bobbin winder spindle so that the bobbin cngages the bobbin presser.
This disengages the stitching mechanism automatically.

3. Holding the end of the thircad, press the foot control to wind the thread a
little. rhen cut the free end of the thread.

4. Run the machine until the bobbin winder spindle stops tuming. Pull the
spindle towards you to the original position in order to connect the stitcling
mechanism. Then take out the bobbin from the spindle and cut thi thread.
Whlt4 runolog Tha machine, dO r> t l or t Porblbi winder sorte
12
* To Adjust Bobbin Winding Device

0 correctly wound

~~~~S Lo-we r.'

L Loosen ~ screw

Loosen the screw, lower the bobbin winder thread guide


slightly.

Loosen the screw, raise the thread guide slightly.

After
A edjpsstrenl tighter io
rhe screw fhrmly reser Ine
tnread guide.

13
TO INSERT BOBBIN INTO BOBBIN CASE
1. Plate the bobbin into the
nbobbn fs ,hbobbin ease when the tliread is
wound.

1<

slot of the bobbin_cas.


3. Pull the thread under the tenI-
slot sion spring and thien into the
delivery eye. tDras about
four inches of thread througi
the delivery eye.)
XUf - r~~~hread
4. While the latch is held open.
the bobbin is retained in the
bobbin case and will not drop
-C---, \'\out,

+ - _ _ _

tension spning \ \ Hold latch open.


- - delivery eye latch

14
TO INSERT BOBBIN CASE INTO MACHINE
5, Ttirri the balance whed towar&
you tintil the needle bat i, at it,
liigliest point.

6. Open the shuttle cover loeards


y(w
a 5. efit, le ha,
ope. sh.ttl. Co.." A a its hlght point.

Unless the bobbi. ,.se i,


1.sehrod h th. sh.til. a.., th.
llobblh Cas. M11 dlop cot ard the
hef,dl. 'oft, u,

T1w bcklbio 1-1se ahd the sh U'th'


she.1,1 he kept ' J-.
it e,oit ih ",e
th,e.d b,eakihl, aho xha
hoi,v

7. llold tlic, bobbin caw by the


latcli. aild place it on the centre
pin willi tile bobbill case ringer in
tile noteli at tlyc top of the Slitittic -T- - - - - -
mce

h`leh
7

8. Release the latell ind press the bobbin casc iiito the Aluttle usitil the latell
catches oti the eciitre Iiin witli a click,
TO THREAD NEEDLE
(See next page.)

5~~~

Os

Pass the thread in the order from 1 to 8.

* Tilting Spool for Prevention


of Thread Tangling
& +-et------__
It is recommended that the spool
pin base is tilted to prevent the
thread Iorn tangling.

XI Pull the spool pin base off the


machine arm.
sp0Cl pi. base 2. Tilt the base downward until
the pin fits into the lower cut.

16
4 thrcd ens on regulator

/
spol 2 thread guide

a /
. 9 _ + = = 7 ~~~~~~~~thr7/k up )g

I thread
\ 3 thread g

h,dke p srig

5 hole In the .ketup bl,d h,e,


pmsth. pt ake up e.in
bentwe

3 threed hile holding th pool wth the right

I I di... ie right and pull It up,


f,onn d Y
W doing.
e tho th,esd wi authmatiellY
Ipss through end under the tension
_________ ~~~~guard,

thg,udiduide

/ >~~~~~~~~~~~~8
eve of

Pull, / , needle

Run the thread through left needle bar l I7


thread guide.
Drw about sIx inches of thread through
the eye of the needle.

17
TO DRAW UP LOWER THREAD
1 1loid the end of the upper
thread with your let hand.
Turn the balance wheel towards
you slowly until the needle
and the take-up lever move
down and up again, then stop

upper threadthe balance wheel.

{~~~~~<~ e thmadn

2. Pull the upper thread slowly,


thcii the lower thrcad will
be brought up from the needle
-hole in a loop.

\\upperthreadf

S Lower thread
pwil be brought up
In a loop.

3. PulI both ends of the threads


from under the pnvtscr foot
and place them away from
you.

tra 5r.d5.il
t,re
a:! 1

18

18
TO SEW STRAIGHT SEAM

* Sewing preparation:

It is so easy to sew straight seams


S l with this highly advanced machine.
Set the cam and dials as per the
diagram (left).

Select deSired stitch length

\ w 9,~~~~~~05
1 25

tj t

19
TO START TO SEW
r. Select the needle hole for straight
sewing by the folltowing methed.
First. pull the lever (A) to the left,
C Pusb. ;1_;1Toon depress the top of the needle plate
Ct _#needle plate. with your f-inger thus raise the
bottom hialf of the needle plate.
Then turn the plate, adjust the
hole (B) in the needle plate to the
pin (C), and push h5ack the lever
(A) to its place.
\\Pull levere
le ~~ ~ ~ ~ ~ t o1 Iot>9 4>bl

2 Turn the bialance wdeei towards


_s / d / ~~~~~~~you
slowly with your right liand
_ ~~~~~~to allow the needle to penetrate
hread tile point frorn which to start
upper
tread swing.

lower thr~t
low r thrriez Lower needle.

3 Lower the presser toot and start


sewing.

/ Tt H \ vi~~~~~~~~o;r> o,'IertA,,ia4u4lrb1s i
/ s t lt |\\iLower \~~~ t.<oa... e t2 tO
< hs
>.t:,ttb t;

upper
t 1- prsr foot
h rte

20
TO TURN CORNER
I. Stop sewing with the necdle in
the fabric and lift the presicr
loot.

presser

2. TuIn the fabric around the needle,


lower the presser foot and start
to sew again.

t
presser oot.

* To Adjust Pressure of Pressr Bar to Cloth


fhe pressure of the presser bar to the clotil should be adjusted according to
thickness of the cloth.
1.To release the pres-
sure, push down the
regulator ring (A).
2. I<or sewing very thin
cloth, push the topl
of the bar (B) lightly
to give tie wequired |Psh down ring. /Push down bi.
pressure to the cloth. A t
3. Ior sewing heavier I I_ _ iI i_ \ i
cloth, push it down
unrther to give inore * tufticiunt pressure ry cau i 5 o
pnssure It lth cloothl Si.Icitv In .ouldirig the frbri. 21
TO FINISH SEAM
L. At the end of a seai press
the reverse push button to
sew a few slitches for
reinforcement.

/A-Q> <Pressand hold,

* reverse sewing

2. Stop the machine when the


take-up lever ic al its highest
point Raise the presrer foot
and remove the fabric away
Raise presser to , from you
I j talseneedle
to its highest
position

I
3. Sever the thread with either
the thread cutter attached to
the presser bar or with a pair
of scissors, leaving about 6
thread cutert - inches of thread from the
- eye
__ of the needle

22
* To Regulate Thread Tensions
Correct tensions are important for the
good appearance of the stitches. If the
tensions are not correct, the result
will be inmperfect stitching. Adjust the
telisions by the following method.

upper thread

i3 correct tnin
'- ~~~fabrk .

lower thread

,3 cA Vlo knobl

> 4 Weake.
t If the upper thiread lower
tension is too weak or enn

Strengthen 0
uppe, tension

t It the upper thread tensiorl is too


strong:
Weaker \\
ppr ter. _gthen
lowe 2

23
TO SEW TUBULAR AREAS

'rhe free arm feature of this machine is particularly


_r rJ suitable for sewing and darning tubular areas such as
sleeves, trousers, socks, etc.

* Sewing preparation:
Ditacli the cxtension plate as illust ratd.
Set the controls in the conventional i
mann-er

* Sewing procedure:
/Inwrt the mubular fabric in theIree arm.
lower the presser foot and commence
secwing. Guile Ihe cloth genily " ibh
:our halidI.

24
APPLICATIONS OF FREE ARM FEATURE

aXX~~

(~~~~~~~~ a )' U

In this section you will find illustrations of ideas where the free armi of
your inachine will be an aid to your sewing skill. 25
CONTINUED
CONTINUED I
I
7- -V K
(:1
I],U,

I
l

I
f)
0 1
l

I
26
n

1
1-\
l

1 Ik
11)

----- - "g.

! 1 11 ,0, 0
1l c
k

27
- - TO SEW CHAIN STITCH SEAM
*Sewing preparation:

Single-thread chansttching looks like re-


gular staight stitching on top, but is a
r
saries of interlocking loops on the under-
side of the fabric. Because the stitches
are formed by only upper thread, the
stitches unravel easily with just a pull on,
the thread end. Cliainstitclling will bth i
found useful in wide range for suci sewing
jobs as basting, embroidery, fastening re1
movable trimming such as collars and cuffs,
etc.

hanlooper

chain stitch foot hreve sodel


Cha;etirtichi,,g

use
~fl ..!9
Ns50
b sowwallei
oq.
tor tw~l

cotto_ a_d _f
Q
Si2i ire r8comft etd_

28
TO INSERT CHAIN LOOPER
1. Open the shuttle cover. Rais preswer ba. ltRaise needie.

tnshuflleshueo cver.

2. Remiove the bobbin case,

_mc0d ~ ~ F

llom Ll ...........

..........

7, ~~ ~ ~ 2
TO THREAD FOR CHAINSTITCHING

Thread the needle in the way in the order from I to 9 except open face
plate and pass thread from take-tip lever throuigh built-in chainstitch
thread guide (6).
Draw about 10 inchies of thread throuigh the eye of the needle before
you comnience sewing.
tA0W//

*To Regulate Thread Tension


week tensin. stron, tension

corrct tension

*Sewing procedurE.
Sew in the sane procedure as the straight stitch sewing. When you wish to have
the interlocking seams on the tip side of the fabric, sew the fabric witi it, reverse
30 side ouit.
TO FINISH SEAM
1Sto stitching at desired point.
Make sure tlhe take-up lever is in
its hliglhcst posi tio,.

2. Raisc the presser foot. With your


finger, pull the ihread forming
a loop between the thread tensioil
regulator and the take-up, lever. ~---<
P
Yass scissors undler the presser - /
tool so as to dras the loop down, Slacken needle
to the left of the lilot. Hold thread. g
the loop and cut the thread close
to the end of the stitching.

4, Remove the fabric from the


machine by pulling it st,aighl back,
away from you. This will cause
the thread end to pull throuyglh
the fabric to the underside and
fornn a Icmporary lock.
TO LOCK THREAD
It you wish to securc this \
temporary lock. Ibld the thread
end back over the chain and
fasten with hand stitching as / /
illustrated. '-
Cut thread and then remove ftahlc

Pull out thread.

Tie and lock thread.

31
TO REMOVE SEAM

Draw out thread.

1. Pick up the freed thread end from 2. With this free thread end the endr,
the top surface of the fabric with line of stitching can be removed by
a weam ripper or the like, a single pull.

CORRECTION OF
SKIPPED STITCHES
See the reverse side if there is no skipped
stitch. If you find any, it is recommend-
ed to remove the seam to the skipped Y )
point and proceed with sewing from that
point, or lock the seam by hand sewing
as illustrated.

TO CHANGE FROM CHAINSTITCHING TO LOCK STITCHING

I ,Unthread the chainstitch thread guide.


2. Remove the chain looper.
3 Insert the bobbin and bobbin case into the machine,
4. Replace the chain stitch foot with the regular presser foot.
L m aw>d Io.sp rhre,,t rVtt tte wi case iprI tttchto
320.IKE at >0r rn AsC'Ct >V?f Cr ar<

32
APPLICATIONS OF CHAINSTITCHING

, . __ i , I I f
i~~~~.

X~~~~S

tri-l seamns *or fitting)


lace, braid, frill, etc.

fatening removable trlmming


such as collan and cuffs

33
ZIGZAG SEWING

* Sewing preparation:
Zig,ag wwing is not difficult at all.
As you know, '-Practice makes perlect."
By changing zigzag width, stitcli length _jW2
and pattern cams, or by usinig super
pattem elongator. attractive embroidery
is createdd.

briq'an width L
more than 5

A variety of patterns can


\* >{ be secured by manually
changing either the zig-
zagwidth control or the
needle position to create
the (lesired pattern while
running the machine.
In ianual zigzag sewing,
use the basic zigzag caili
No. 0 and set the
buttonhole knobat "S"

34
selectlon of stitch length

0.5 1 2 ^i 4 iop

Pre the rigit anfd lft liniter


thetis side ise and set the rigzag Mvdti,
regulator lever at the desired rigzag s'idthi.

*Thread Tension
for Zigzag Sewing
o obtain better zigZag stiwhe. the
uipper tension stol eslightly wae
than in the case of straight sewing. The
upper tliread should slightly appearon
the reverse side of the material.

s 2lecti
n1 wdVh 5ozag

35
AUTOMATIC ZIGZAG PATTERN SEWING

* Sewing preparation: |2
The 24 Cams (and 4 optional extra carns)
will enable you to sew beautiful decora- rO | t
tive patterns. Also they are usefulin
manry sewing applications. 0 0
,i_

th lngoth 4- foNrPattern cams


N,9through No. 24, (S 2, S 3

~~~~~~~and
±
[ S : S 4)

y rs ~hstitch
lengthY1betwveen '0.3-- and -0.
for ptsrn cams No. 1 through No 9
6° < 2 ~~~and(and S 11

v~~~~~~~~~ t r Km

36
SUPER PATTERN ELONGATOR
By tirning the super pattern elongator when sewing
with any pattern cam No. 9 through No. 24 (and
No. S-2 through No. 5-4), you can obtain lengthened
or shortened stitches, as in the diagram.

~~0

t7t ttt,PPr oD etblin Iy

H.e to p~qt40 tProugth 41 lot


th. t r
tht M'o bV
tXhtl,n 'Clomrga

tht arrow to tho. otomi cotrt


po._tion

37
TO CHANGE PATTERN CAMS

U t, m.. .. -o o U

icX'>in
oi

4, Push the can, compartment lid down with your finger.


Close the lid.
38 .1 Retiirn [hr needle position tetector knob, at -1- and the
buttonhole knob at -S-,
TWIN NEEDLE SEWING

(Colour(i n ~uiu
pattit r sw vt
a twin ed sn w
0 threado ntatgco

- use of an embroider-
vhoop will avod the
.' l~~~~~~~~oi
X
~~~puckering
~~~~~~~~~~~~fab of stretch
in twn need]e

S-1~ ~ ~ 1

ordinarythread guide 14

Nfe I) ~~~~
INSERT CAM PATTERNS

2 3

Single Needle ;

Twin Needle

Variation +
by . 4
Elongator
__

8 9 10

Single Needle

Twin Needle

Variation
by-
Elongator

40
, 4

CONTINUED
41
CONTINUED

16 7
15

Single Needle
jll4J#,
Twin Needle

Variation
by
Elan gate,

Single Needle J3S1 AJI


Twin Needle

Variation
by

42
18 1 ~~19 20 21

2o5250
At -

PATTERNS AND APPLICATIONS OF EXTRA CAMS


These four pattern ean sae op..nal extras.)
51 2 5354

T, ict Stitch Appli'ue Hem Ecging F-Iing Stitch

Si same s , ca NO, 1 8
to s 2, SS3r5e4,
, . S. t o 24

43
PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS
LBUTTONHOLE SEWING

* Sewing preparation.

Stitch length regularor:


This regulator should be set at the mark
indicating buttonhole sewing, as per the
conditions below:
zigzag width knob=
thick material - coarse stitch at 4 knob <

thin material - dense stitch 3 mm


width
h -
©

Zigzag width regulator: w m fl


In accordance wIth the size of the buton, w
selct the bar tack width and hold the zigzag _ i,
width lever by the limiter zigzag width knob
at 7
44
__ Sewing procedure:

Set the buttonhole knob in the


order shown in the illustrations
and then sew.
1. Bring the needle to the left side
of the needle hole A and lower the
presser foot. Sew slowly to

|2. Sw the bar tack about stitches


.
and stop the machinec whecn the
needle comes to the point C.

421> 3.Sew until the right row is as the


s.lmie size as the left one, stop the
namchine when the needle conies
to the point D and rak~e the needle.

4. Sew the hba tack about 5 stithlles.

I'n
CONTINUED

45
CONTINUED

~~~---~~n 5. Raise tile needle frontl the fabric, wit thle


Ž> itSdSst. zig,ag widthregtilator lever at -0- and sews
a few stitches to lock theCthread

6. Withi a seamn ripper or a biuttonhlole cu tter,


slit the but tonhole so as not to cait tlie bar
tacks~

To Adjut
Buttohole St tches A,< i»C~*~hCI r>

lfro slofth btuttonhole, rnak ajut met sflos

Trn the screw to the righit


fu Tartn the screw to the left.

46
CLOTH GUIDE
The cloth guide is used for stitching close to the edge
of the fabric, or to make a wide hem up to 1% inches
in a straight and uniform line

* Sewing procedure:
I Place the guide in the l,oles to the
riglit of the ncedle plate on the
bed of the machine and tighten h
he tIhumilb screw firmly. adjusting oles for cloth gulde
the guide to the desired position.

2. (uide the miatchinc with the cdge


of thle fabric touchinig thle guide I cloth guide
set screw
cloth tuide

47
(, ) X BUTTON SEWING
If you have many buttons to sew on, the following
method will save you much time. This method can
be used for sewing on hooks.

*Sewing preparation:

distance
.... . .... o
holes

* Sewing procedure:

L :.
L Set the zigzag wiuth regulator lever at ''O" Place a button on the fabric
with its holes in a horizontal line and hitn the balance wheel slowly tolwards
you witli your right hand, niaking sure the needle drops into the left hole of
the button. Lower the preser foot onto the but ton.

48
width beetwn

2. Ric h needle by turning the balance wheecl towards youi. Move the zig.zai
width regulator lever to the right, while still turning the balance wheel. See
that the needl.e drops into the righit hiole of the button. Fix the lever with
the zigzag width limiiter. Sew five or six stitchies.

3. Retujrn thec zigzag midthi lever to -O- and sew three or four stitches.
+ hen~ 4ewn 5 on ar b&,tttts of th,e same size,
it Is rootae 0 limi
flo, th Io~ .igz* r.R.I.tor
ejth both the limier knobs

*shoulj you wish to keep a laac ewe h


butter. and the fabric. place a ~ath "tck, right
und.trwatb the centre of the but hensein
and roeafter sewing,

* eraalso
Hoos ewn o. bythe sate roedre

49
HEMMING
You can turn and stitch a narrow hein in a single
_olcration if you use the hemmer foot.

* Sewing preparation:

* Sewing procedure:
I(erease a double i/8 itcih fold for abouit 2 _
inches alonig the edge of the fabric to bc hemlicmed. c

2. Place the otided edge under the fop 1 at a" i


aUlgte and turn Ilir balance w beel u 'ii the Up /
of tie needle ceitres on Ihe pinl from which
to start selving.

presser foot.

80In

50
I 'flien turri the Ltbric around to the
w,,ing posilion a, 'lloxin riglit.

4, Inwrt ific folded edge i.ito the


mouth of the foot-

5, L(ixer [lie foot, Wliile sewing, hold


the fabric irettilly iith riglit
lialid so thal it is evenly led ilito
ille illoutli of ill, licitillict ti)(ir,

Lo

-Y

51
a SEWING ON ZIP
The zipper foot is designed to improve stitches close
to a raised edge. Also the zipper foot is useful for
making corded seams and has many applications in
sewing hems,
* Sewing preparation: 0 IO

* Sewing procedure:

zipper fooQt zpper foot

wf ~tntX - I iS1r

1. To sew the left side of the 2, To sew the right side of the
zip, sot the zipper foot on zip, bring the foot to the
the left side of the needle and right side of the needle and
sew along the edge of the repeat the same procedure as
zip. with the left side.

52
QUILTING
Quilting attachments are convenient for quilting a mat
or the like, stuffed with cotton.
* Sewing preparation:

~~~~~~~l I
. t, th It,,
{>}~~~~~~~~
e h~. oa al.i<
I~~~~~~~~~~~t

1y4 I
I 11
1 ' te atahmn
t 'UT
Iffi.Y

2A_ ~~~~~~~~qWet. i! hr ra be

SeIng pr ue (A) -For lui .'mitnaralel


y li
r knes,

1.Adj2lus th poiin of teftllow


ipressrte foot,
p l i
use qitratcnet(
n. I
sotht tenedefllno
3. djut te cpedho
ata cetr 2. teFor nedl.shr
t;\istncefTon distantlo paalhtel5n
Tenadjuschit ito pressam
hoeo h ot n ihtntesrw lns s quilter attaclhment(2= =
).f

* Soingu«poeure: W [olong distn paralle lines,jjj-


(A)ifimy
I.Adjust the poito m foof ll us quleu' attachment (I
oTth pivse

sota thew
nelfsin to thewun
centr 2. Ior
lyshort distant parallel lns

hole or the foot, and tighten the screw lines, use quilter attachment(2).
3. Adjust the curved hook at a distance from the needle. Then adjust it to press
on the fabric and tighten the screw (B) flrmly. When sewing, the hook should
follow the pteceding line of stitching. 53
- BLIND STITCH HEMMING
istitehing provides a durable hem finish that is
a most invisible and comparable to hand sewing. It is
used for sewing on the. hems of curtains, trousers anid
_ ~~~~~~sleeves.
* Sewing preparation: _

W1 X~~~~~~1
4

54~~~~~~~~~~~4
* How to fold the fabric: 1/6ince

NO. 2

no, '- NO

*Sewing proeue

77r

Feed the fabric along the guide.


55
APPLIQUE
Zigzag sewing will give a better and clearer applique
stitch

* Sewing preparation:

*Sewing procedure:

I. Glue, or use Scotch tape the


applique into the rquired
position.
2 Place the miaterial under the
appliqu4
footfoot so that the edge of the
rpptiqu~ applique comes to the centre
Ppof the slot in the toot, and
wew along the edge:
appliquit

56
BRAID SEWING
By sewing on woollen yarn and Frenich embroidery
cotton with zigzag stitch using tile braider foot, you
will obtain a fancy pattern. W
* Sewing preparation:

Adjst the vidth of ti j>Aa


sttching to co ter
n.ttr id
Vou are ttViri(g

* Sewing procedure:
1. Insert the braid throuighi the tIhread guttle
spring on the braider loot,
2. As you lower the foot, lay tlhe braid in the
braid slot under the loot.
3. Then sew on the braidi.

slot
braider, foot sprin,

57
STRETCH MATERIAL SEWING
When sewing stretch materials like jersey ann tricot, the follow$ing
stretch stitch will prevent the thread from breaking when the material
is stretched. It will also give smooth Finish when you part the under
seam. This stitch will be specially effective when you need a
reinforced stitch such as darts, sleeves or any part or garment where
there is extra stress or pull on both stretch materials and ordinary
materials.
* Sewing preparation:

W_len
the z igzag
width is set ziag dt

14)~3

Use brat in th
assiow right illustra 9 _e

Sewing procdue

When the zigZng Wldl IS set e widtit rigzag


at O0" stitches will be tripled, gg 6
as shown in the right illustra7 I -

tifll. t II

* Sewing procedure:a'
* fiItsrret.n'sT tch canlSo tO<IIV Iw| ¢ ,

00ri>r'i.,s ;,,tr. olilf , I;Fer ll> ,t

Cr OpoIuti
l~ <l:I,UItiOl<: Wtwl:

Itr;Isiwi1 frmo srnrC.5


<0 sigzag width 0

Trilol stitCh is alst. ias#to Wr


4ririqinmo IF 60) slic mwotthioff 'i9f~
MATTING or DRAWN STITCHES
This stitching will give a tassel effect.

*Sewing preparation:

*Sewing proceure.
I. Remove soniic threads fromi 5
the fabric.
2. Sew bolt, sides of the Cross-pIy j-
by the triple straighit stitch.

llvo,j loov,h #ths, thraOf lin


co by Ithy, 11thOiywi nOik
~ou sIaIiqtoaer
a ,unoa

abe
youatnaa<o
In whtuo~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ 5
it FRINGING
Beautiful fringes for the waist line, blouse front.
edge of home-miade articles. such as apron, and
table cloth, are all made hy this method.
* Sewing preparation:

* Sewing procedure:
/1 Scw zigzag stlitches.

> !1 ,,, ,0,, ,,, ,, X, ....

60
2. Sew triple stitches on one edge
of the zigzag seam.

f 0or riplc A <lwtn9 turo IptJe 5

3. Tum the fabric inside out


Cut the stitches on the back
of the fabric with the seam
repper and pull out the severed
threads.

4. Turn the fabric over again and


draw out the upper stitches by
a thick needle or the back of Draw out
a seam ripper, the upper st
SCAL LOP ING
With pattern cam No. 9, various sizes of dainty
o n in ~~~scalloped edges are obtained. Scalloped edges are
used extensively as self trimming on blouses, dresses,
lingeries and chiildiren's clothes.
* Sewing preparation:

t~~~~~~~~ :(

62
* Sewing procedure:

- VIaic t op sides of the fabric V


together and stitlch scallops.

2. Trin the allowance to less Notch

/
than 1/8 inchi, notch the al- a>. ac.
lowance and clip togethier the
poinis between the scallops.

Trim allowanice

3. lurn to the right side, push


scallops out and press llatI

63
PIN TUCKING
Neat pin tucks are easily sewn by twin needle
sewing. They will add character to blouses and
children's clothes.
* Sewing preparation:

| Zigzag tucks are sewn /


by using cam No. 9 or 5 1.
How to set controls:

Stitch length regulator


knob -4 (for carp No.9)
0.5 1 (forS 1)S
Z)gzag wmdth regulator \
r lever =1-3
Needle position selector II
knob - TWIN
Sewing foot buttonhole foot

* Sewing procedure:

< iii t _______

1. Scw wcrc the pin tucks arc


rcquircl. twin needle I
2 Alter scw,ing, press tIIe lucks to
one side wilh)an iron.

64
SHELL TUCKING
By sewing with pattern cam No.# pretty shell tucks 9 g
are made. Shell tucks are useful for dresses and
fancy works.
* Sewing preparation:

*Sewing procedure:
1. lod the materkd on the bias,
2. Place the mna[rial under the p7t~er
toot as illustrated. Whien s'~wing
ensuie that the necedle does not penet. -___________________
rate the niateral at its left needle
position.

3. Unfold the miaterial and press the


tuck. to one side with an iron,

65
SMOCKING
Smocking is used on children's and ladies' dresses,

aprons and slip covers

* Sewing preparation:

I 1A~~SI

* Sewing procedure: | *ee


6 tension.|
about 3/8 inch

wvdrnse side
ofttsbrtc
s mokng upper thread

Sew straigh lines with a space of' about


318 inch between them. Draw up the
lower thread for desired alount.

2. Sew patteris on the smocking When


d
66 sewing is over, pull out the threads of
the straighit slitcha
FAGOTING
As an application of the automatic reverse feed
stitches, fagoting for a decorative effect on ladies' and
children's dresses is done as follows.
* Sewing preparation:

* Sewing procedure:

<~~~A X

Ptaco ~ ' '~ It is suggested to lightly


O PieCe of paper -4- glue the two pieces of
fabric on a piece of paper.
After sewing, remove the
paper.

67
INTERFACING

_LACE EDGING

* Sewing preparation: * Sewing preparation:

Pattern cams 10 14, 19, 20. Pattern cams 10-24,

* Sewing procedure: * Sewing procedure:

toot N

centre 1 ° 9
Lay the folded edge of the material B Against the side of the lace, put the
alonigside the material A. Where the folded edge of the material and sew.
materials meet, sew along this line.

68
EMBROIDERING
By using embroidery hoop, many designs and
monogrammings are achieved-

* Sewing preparation:

.'£'. 1=

L~~~~~~~~~~~~

\er presw foot.


* Sewing procedure:

IDraw your desired design on the 2. While moving the hoop slowly with
fabric with a pencil or tailor's clialk. the left hand following the design on
Stretchr the abric in an eniboidery the fabric, move the zigzag width
hoop. regulator Iever with the right hand to
change the width.

69
FILLING STITCH
By using patter.n camn S-4 (optionial extra), any designs
can be filled beautifully

* Sewing preparation:

optional extra S

* Sewing procedure:

h.op
hoop ,' ->

1 Draw your desired design oTt the fatric with a pencil or tailotrs chalk. Stretch
the fabric in art embroidery hoop.
2 First, sex on the line you draw\v with the iiggay widtli regulator at "0".

3 Thern inwrt pattern cam No. 5-4 (optional extra) and fill the design front the
70 oliter part to the inner part.
MULTIPLE STITCH ZIGZAG SEWING
or TRICOT STITCH
The multiple stitch iigzag sewing is well suited for
mending such as rents and tears and overcasting
worn edges. this is also ideal for the reinforcement
and application of elastic materials.
* Sewing preparation:

optional extra

Soloured
loor
acerf44d -
needle

* Sewing procediure:

< ~/ J9
l, t 14. pat . _

141.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~7

0~~~~> :: to rr&ol:n thtsetT.oma oril h


A,hnrewir pYossible.
nc> ase you Part Ihe
ulnderte
5to1i tIl setvirti

re neda
ret ur mF

71
TO KEEP YOUR MACHINE
IN THE BEST CONDITION

TO OIL MACHINE

To ensure easy and free running of the machine, it is necessary that


all moving parts be covered with a filim of oi.

In normal use, apply fine quality sewing machine oil to the points
indicated by the arrows in the figures once a week
In constant use, oil the machine every 7 to 10 hours. Oiling is particular-
ly necessary after the machine has been standing idle for some time.
After oiling, run the machine rapidly for a few minutes to allow the
oil to penetrate every part.

oiling points behind the face plate

oiling points on the needle plate

oiling point
esuret ta use sewing eciIntt oil of gOod puaiiTy
72
* to remove free arm cover oiling points under the free arm cover
L on.

~' 1-J - _ to_ remove


_ top cover

oiling points under the top cover


73
TO CLEAN FEED TEETH
feh Lint and loose threads ae liable to
Push hore Remove needle. collect on the feed teeth. Therefore.
it is necessary that the teeth be cleaned
needle latr. from time to time.

1. Remove the needle and tde presser


foot. rhen pull the lever to
l7oot,
:: ~ release and remove the needle
eo pressero plate. (See page 20.)

2. Clean lint and loose threads in the


teed teeth with a brush. Also
clean the reverse side of the feed
teeth using cloth.

3. After cleaning, reset the needle


plate, presser foot and needle.

*ot ht ta¢dio5 thr-sin >tqa

tOO?,hrkttOtorot, thrtt i
74c> tato to 0100,; t<!, td
t,Žtth8 tef.oro too o!Mtte t.ans

74
TO DISMANTLE AND CLEAN SHUTTLE RACE
* To dismantle shuttle race:
1. Tum the balance wheel towards
you. rais the needle bar to its
highest point and then open the A
shuttle cover.

2. First take out the bibbin cas by


the latch.

3. Open the shuttle mce clasps


outward.

shunle race cl.sps

CONTINUED
CONTINUED

4. Then remove shutile race ring,

shuttle race ring

0 /~~

5S Remove the shuttle hook.

chunk hooi

* To clean shuttle race:


1. Clean the inside of the shuttle
ihook with a brush.
7 ///
2 While
\ t turning the balance wheel
towards you, clean the inside of

the race.

76 CONTINUED
3. Apply a few drops of oil after
cleaning.

Lint and loose threads in the


shuttle mey cause noise, the ma-
chinetorunheavily,andthelower
thread to break.

A :e~~to
D. net olto much. iq

* To assemble shuttde race: Assemble the shuttle race in the reverse order.
With tip of shuttle hook bobbin case finger
shuttle driver agalnst red mark on driver agalnst notch in
- , ~~~shuttfle race ring

1. Insert the shutUe hook intb the machine with its


tip against the red marking on the plastic shuttle
driver so that the bosses on the shuttle driver fit
into the slots in the shuttle hook.
2 Put the shuttle race ring on the shuttle race body
with its small guide pins against the holes in the
shuttle race body,
3. Hold the shuttle race ring with the shutte race
clasps.

77
TO ADJUST MOTOR BELT TENSION
When the motor runs idle or you change
the motor belt, regulate the belt tension
by the following method.
1. Loosen the belt covey set screw, and
remove the belt cover.

bet coveajf
Set Screw!

2 When the tension of the upper belt


is not conrect, loosen the adjusting
screw of the plastic large pulley and
pperE belt
E7 move the pulley up and down to
upper
bolt obtain the suitable tension,
aadjusting screw for
||the plastic pulley it is advisable to apply one or two
drops ol sewiny machme oil toS
the oiling points indicated by tre
atrov. once a veas.

oiling Oln
point point

plastic 3. When the tension of the lower belt is


pollev not corecet, loosen the motor holding
screws and adjust the belt tension by
.moving the motor to the right or the
-> ~~~~left.
. Inn i nThe bltt tension should not be
n7ther too tight nor too oose.

78
r UNSATISFACTORY CONDITIONS: CAUSES AND REMEDIES
Condition Cause Remedy
(See page)
*The machine 1. The machine is in need of oil. 72-73
does not run 2. Oil of inferior quality is used. Use good oil.
smoothly 3. Loose thread ha collected in the hook 75-77
and is noisy: mechanism.
4. Lint has collected on the feed teeth. 74
5. Something is wrong with the motor. Repair or
replace motor.
*The upper 1. The upper thread is not threaded correctly. 16 . 39
thread breaks: 2. The thread is not threaded corectly for 30
chainstitching.
3. The tension on upper thread is too tight. 23
4. The needle is bent or dull. Replace it.
5. The needle is incorrectly inserted. l
6. The eye of the needle is nicked. File it smooth
withi sand
paper, and
replace needle
plate if
necessary.
7. The fabric is not correctly removed after 22
sewing is over.
8. The thread is too heavy or light for the needle. 10
9. Chainstitch looper is not inserted corectly. 29
'The lower 1. The lower thread is incorrectly threaded in the 14
thread breaks: bobbin case.
2. The bobbin case tension is too strong. 23
3. Dust has collected in the shuttle hook and spring. 75-77
4. The thread is wound unevenly around the 13
bobbin.
*The needle 1. The needle is inconectly inserted. l
breaks: 2. The needle is bent. Replace it.
3. The needle clamp screw is loose. l
4. Tension of upper thread is too strong. 23
5. The fabric is not correctly removed after sewing 22
is over. 79
CONTINUED
CONTINUED
6. The needle is too fine for the cloth sewn. 10
7. The stitch length regulator knob or the zigzag Raise needle
width regulator lever is moved while the needle hbahest point
is in fabric, when you set
the machiine,
8. The needle position selector knob is not set at 39
TWIN in case of twin needle sewing.
9. The needle position selector knob is not set 28
at STRAIGHT in cas of chainstitch sewing.
10. Chainstitchi looper is not inserted correctly. 29
11. Incorrect presser foot is used for each sewing Use correct
application, presser foot.

*Skipped 1. The needle is incorrectly inserted in the needle It


stitches: bar.
2. The needle is bent. Replace it.
3. Tnc thread is not the correct size for the needle. 10
4. The upper thread is not threaded correctly. 16. 39. 30
* When a stitch skipps in chainstitching. be sure 32
to lock the skipped stitch.

*Sewn shrinks 1. Tnie thread tension is too strong. 23. 30


or puckers: 2. Thc thread is not threaded conectly. 16. 39. 30
3. The needle is too heavy for the fabric. 10
4. The stitch is too coarse for the material. 19
5. The thread is wound unevenly around the 13
bobbin.
* When sewing light fabric, use of paper lining
is recommended.

*Stitcling fomis 1. The tension of the upper thread is too weak. 23


loops: 2. The bobbin case tension spring is either too 23
strong or too weak.
3 The needle is the wrong size for the thread. 10

'The fabric 1. Lint has collected on or around the feed 74


is not feeding teeth.
smoothly: 2. The drop feed knob setting is inconect for 4
80 the fabric sewn.

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