PLATE No. 1.

PLATE No. 2.
PLATE No. 3.
 DIRECTIONS.

Starting the Machine.

OBSERVE closer the threading of the machine

when received. See how the upper thread is
passed through the holes in the tension-bar and
the various eyelets; also, how the under thread is
passed from the bobbin in the shuttle. Having
placed the machine in the table, with the driving-
belt on both pulleys (1, Plate No. 1), work the
machine until the treadle motion becomes easy
and uniform. Place the centre of the foot (one
or both) directly over the treadle-rod (2-2, Plate
No. 1), so that both heel and toe may be used in
turning the machine. Start the machine by tak-
ing bold of the balance-wheel (3, Plate No. 1)
with the right hand, always turning from you, con-
 10
11
tinting the motion thus given to the feet by a
Uhread strainbe fronel, both eyelets in the lon
pressure of the lee and toe alternately. Do not
Attempt to sew until a regular motion is aequired. sion-bar, the thread iving straight and parallel
If it is difieult to get a regular motion at first, with the tension-bar, and back of the tension-bar
throw the belt off and operate the balance-wheel and its set-screw, and thence through the eyelet
only, until a perfectly even motion becomes easy on
thefront
eyeletofnear
the the
face-plate (9),
bottom of theand down through
face-plate (10) ;
and natural. Then replace the belt and operate
as before. Be careful that the presser-foot (4 thence through
(11), under the hole
the spring oninlower
the thread-controller
end of the face-
Plate No. 2) is raised up when running the ma- plate (12), and under the spring on lower end of
chine and not sewing. needle-bar (13), then through the eye of the
Setting the Needle. needle, from left to right. Then turn the tension-
bar from you once and a half or twice around,
Loosen the serew at the lower end of the needle. and fasten it by turning the set-screw on the top.
bar (5, Plate No. 2) by turning it towards you If wheel tension is used, pass the thread under
with the screw-driver. Hold the needle with the the spring between the two pins; then over and
thumb and finger (with the long groove to the around the wheel; them continue to thread as
left), and push the shank of the needle up into above directed.
the needle-bar as far as it will go, and then turn
the screw from you until the needle is firmly held;
pass the thread through the eye of the needle from
left to right. To sew very coarse cotton or linen
thread, the needle may be set a little lower, - say
one sixteenth of an inch. Threading the Shattle.
Threading the Machine.
Take the Shuttle between the thumb and finger
Place the spool on the spool-pin (6, Plate No. of the left hand, with the frame swung back to the
a standing on the top of the arm, to the right;
 12

right; place the bobbin in frame (see Fig. No. 1),

Fig. No. 2.
then back through the same slot in end of frame
(D, Fig. 2), then thread out through the slot in
shuttle (E, Fig. 2), and pull the frame down into
position by the thread, as shown in Fig. No. 3,

Fig. No. 3.
Flg. No. 1.
pulling the thread through about two inches.
The tension of the shuttle is regulated by turn-
ing with the shuttle screw-driver (see Fig. No. 4)
then pass the thread over the curved side and up
through the thread-slot in side of frame (see A.
Fig. 1), then through the thread-slot on the end of
frame (see B. Fig. 1), then under and arou
once between the disk and end of frame (see
Fig. 2),
 15
the nut
you on the end
as indicated by of
thethe frame.thus,
arrows, Turning
- from
bobbin in even, regular layers, like the ordinary
spool if possible, ° as careless, uneven, winding
renders good sewing impossible. Care should be
they should
taken, not onlynot
to be wound
wind too full,
the bobbing -just even
smoothly, but
with the brass ends of the bobbins.

increases the tension. To decrease it, turn in the Operating the Machire.
opposite direction. With the needle mised to its highest point,
To remove the shuttle from or place it in the place the work under the presser-foot (1, Plate
carrier, draw out the slides (20-20, Plate No. 2),
one or both. No. 2),
litter onthen drop the side
the opposite presser-foot by raising(17,
of the face-plate the
Plate No. 2). Never commence sewing until the
Spooling the Bobbin.
work is on the feed and the presser-foot dropped.
Take the thread from the eye of the needle, or Always start the machine by turning the balance-
else remove the shuttle from the carrier, to avoid wheel (3, Plate No. 1) from you.
tangling the threads, and raise the presser-foot
(1, Plate No. 2). Place the spooler (14, Plate
No. 2) in such a position, that, when the bobbin is Regulating the Tension.
placed in the spooler, the rubber ring (15, Plate When the tension is right, the two threads aro
No. 2) will be crowded on to the top of pulley or locked together and drawn to the centre of the
balance wheel (16, Plate No. 2). Wind the bob- fabric, as represented in Fig. 1,-
bin from the spool on top of the arm, or from
another spool put in its place. of the same size or
number; work the foot-treadle the same as when Fig
operating the machine, taking care to wind the
 16
17
ze the under thread is not sufliciently drawn up
to theleaving
sides, work to make
it as the stitch
represented alike
in Fig. 2, on bot downitthe
stich, willupper stitch.
be found go To
necessary to make
have thea tensions
perfect
of both threads as nearly alike as possible.

Fig. 2.
tighten the upper thread by turning the tensions Lengthening and Shortening the Stitch.
har (7-7, Plate No. 2) from you; and if the upper To lengthen the stitch, pass the hand under the
thread is not drawn down enough, as represented
table and turn to the left the nut, or Stitch-Regu-
in Fig. 3,
lator, on the vertical screw in front and below the
machine (18, Plate No. 3). To shorten the stitch,
turn the Stitch-Regulator to the right.
Fig. 3.

then turn the tension-bar toward you, until the

upper and under threads are drawn into the work
alike on both sides; but should the tension be so Missing Stitches.
great as to break the upper thread, then the shut-
tle-tension must be lessened and the upper tension If the machine is properly adjusted there will
be no trouble; but should there, at any time, be
made to correspond. To tighten the under ten-
sion, turn the nut on the end of shuttle-frame skipped or long stitches at intervals, the occasion
from you: to loosen, turn the nut towards you, may be that the eve of the needle may be too
as explained under head of « Threading the Shut- small for the thread, or the point of the shuttle or
needle may be dull: if so, they can be polished
de," on page 11. The upper thread draws up
by a hone or needle-stone used in sharpening bat-
the lower stitch, while the under thread draws
 18
19
tered points of needles. The needle may be
tle, so thatsothe
crooked shuttle
as to standdoes
backnot
toocatch the the
far from loop: if
shut
Family sewine seldom calls for cotton coarse
used. Silk30;isNos.
than No. used50,
with
60,the
70,same facility
80, and 30 areas col
most!
so, epring the needle gently towards the shuttle.
ton. The size of thread to be used must corre
Breaking Threads. spond with size of needle.
When the machine breaks the upper thread, the
needle is too fine for the thread, or the tension is For No. 00 needle, use Nos. 100 to 150 cotton
For No. O needle, use Nos. 80 and 20 cotton.
too tight, or you may be using a large needle and For No. 1 needle, use Nos. 60 and 70 cotton.
thread with the fine throat-plate, the hole being For No. 2 needle, use Nos. 40 and 30 cotton.
so stall that the needle cannot pass through with. For No. 3 needle, use Nos. 30 and 36 cotton.
out cutting or chafing the thread against the sides.
Should the shuttle thread break, make less tension
For No. 4 needle, use Nos. 30 and 21 cotton.
When very coarse or linen thread is to be used,
on the shuttle.
set the needle one-sisteenth of an inch lower than
for ordinary sewing.
Removing the Work.
Raise the needle to the highest point; take hold Tightening the Band.
of the thread just forward of the tension-bar, and If the band becomes loose, so as to turn without
draw from the spool about three inches of slack driving the machine, it may be tightened by eut-
thread, then raise the presser-foot and with the ting off a piece where it is joined together, and
left hand draw the goods from the back side out fastening the ends again. The band should be
wards about three inches, then cut both threads. thrown off when the machine is not in use.

Size of Needle and Thread. Presser-foot.

Machine-sewing does not require so coarse a The Presser-foot, or part that presses on the
cloth when sewing (4, Plate No. 2), is regulated
thread as hand-sewing, every stitch being double,
 20
21
by the screw on top of the presser-bar (19, Plate wheel, C; the hole just behind the bobbin-winder,
No. 2), by turning down for heavy goods and up D, and between the spool-post and tension-bar
for very light goods. The Presser-foot is raised
br the little lever at the back of the face plate (17. E; also the hole where the gauge-screw fastens
Plate No. 2). To raise the foot, press the lever on, F; the needle-bar, G; the slot in controller,
down; to lower it, raise the lever up. El; the lifter of the presser-foot, back of the face-
plate, I; the shuttle-mce and face of shuttle (to
get at that, remove slide J. Then throw off' the
driving-belt, and turn the machine back on the
Plate Gauge. table, as represented in Plate No. 3. Oil the slot
The Plate Gauge (21, Plate No. 2) is attached in the cam K, the cam-roller L, the bearings of
the eccentric M, connecting shafts of shuttle-car-
by the screw (22) passing through the long slot. rier and feed N N, the bearings of the feed where
Place the gauge the same distance from the nee-
there is friction, especially the flat spring where it
de that it is desired that the line of stitching
bears against the bed-plate O, the piece that
should be from the edge of the fabric, and turn
moves the feed back and forth, P. The shuttle-
down the screw so as to secure it firmly in place.
driver race T T.
Keep the fabrie close up to the face of the gauge
while sewing.
It is very necessary that all the wearing parts be
frequently oiled. The shuttle-race (remove slide
J, Plate No. 1), the slide-slot in controller I (Plate
Cleaning and Olling the Machine. No. 1), the needle-bar G (Plate No. 1), and press-
When in constant use, all working parts of the er-bar, S, should be oiled very often when the ma-
machine should be well cleaned with cotton waste, chine is in constant use. Do not apply too muck
and then oiled with the best Sperm Oil wherever oil: a surplus is almost as objectionable as a
deficiency.
there is fiction, which is in the following places:
See Plate No. 1,- 'The bearings of the treadle,
A A; the pitman, B B; the two holes in fly-
 gin to run out of the hemmer, carry itto the RIGHT;
should
to the too much run into the hemner, carry the edge
LEFT.

lemming (Narrow Hem).

Take the Presser-foot off, and fasten the hemmer
to the presser-bar, in place of the foot, in the
same manner that the foot was fastened. Be sure
that the hole (A) in the hemmer is directly over lemming (Wide Ilem).
the hole in the needle-plate. Fold (by band) the width of hem required,
Pass the edge of the cloth into the hemmer in turning onE fold only, adding about one-eighth of
the manner shown in the illustration, drawing it an inch, which will be turned under by the hem
through the hemmer as far as the needle-hole (any mer. Introduce the edge of the cloth in the same
sharp-pointed instrument, a needle for instance, way as for a narrow hem, and proceed in the same
can be used to do this, if necessary); raise the way, holding the goods in the right hand (in the
presser-bar while doing this. Then drop the manner shown in the illustration). Should the
presser-bar, and operate the machine as usual. edge of the cloth begin to run out, carry it to the
Hold the goods with the right hard, as shown in LEFT; should loo much run into the hermer, carry
the illustration. Should the edge of the goods be- the cdge to the RIGHT.
 26 27
illustration), and stitch it upon the goods as in through small tube or cord guide (1), drawing
ordinary sewing. Braid should be used the same
width of the slot in the braider. Attach
two the Corder
or three inches ofsothe
that thethrough
cord needle the
willguide.
pass

Gathering. through the centre of small hole (C) in cord-

presser or thick end of Corder. After the cloth
Run the machine slowly with a loose upper has been prepared, either by creasing or stitching
tension, leaving under tension same as in ordinary
sewing; make the stitch very long, and sew about
one-fourtb of an inch from the edge, then draw
) the otherplace
a seam, underthe
thecloth
cord-zuide, and the
one thickness whole
over and
under cord-presser. Press the cloth to the left as
the under thread. far as it will go, then let down the presser-foot,
and stitch as usual, keeping the goods well to the
right while sewing.

"Goodrich" Tucker. Price $3.00.

Corder. Price $2.00. Attached to the Tucker-wire is a small book
'Threail the corl through the eyelet at the end with an evelet; slip this over the needle and up
of the Corder (shown at A in illustration), thence to the bottom end of needle-bar (as shown at
 A in illustration). Put the gauge-screw through
the slots of gauge and Tucker (B), and turn near-
Ir down; and, after having adjusted all to the
desired width of tuck, turn the screw down
firmly.
The rule to take any width of tuck when you
wish to have the edge of tuck just meet the line
of stitching, is to place the gauge of the Tucker to
right of the needle just the width of the tuck
desired, and then move the creasing-blade of the
Tucker twice the width of tuck to left of the
needle. If n space between the tucks is desired,
move the creasing-blade just as much farther to
the left as you would have space between.
After having made the first luck, and folded the

next
placedone by the
it under thecrease
gauge,just
put made,
the edgeand having
of the said
first tuck under the small horisontal spur. This
prevents it from running upon the creasing-blade,
thus insuring a better crease in the cloth, because
only two thicknesses are passing over the creasing.
blade, instead of four, as in the case when the,
edge of the tuck just made is not put under. This
3 arrangement of the cloth in the Tucker assists very
much in guiding the cloth straight, and keeping it
• to the gange. Never run the machine with the
presser-foot up when the Tueker is attached.
 OU

place by the ordinary gaug

The pies of cloth which is to form the .
should pass through the baster, over A, and under
and C, and also under both parts of the Rufler.
The piece of cloth which is to form the binding
should pass over B and under C, and between the
plates of the Rufler. Turn the screw to the right
until the plates of the Rufller are so far apart that
cloth is gashered vory little, if any. Then, by
rning the screw to the left, regulate the gather-
ing as desired.

"Chaplen's". Binder. Price $3.00:

of up:
 Crandell's Rufller. Price $1.50.
The Ruftler should be so placed on the plate of
the machine that the needle may pass through
the centre of the hole (). The baster is, placed
over the Ruffler, as a guide for the slath, and both