64 BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK

that the bow of the hull

BE RTH TOP
will be rounded rather TOP VIEW t PLYWOOD
_________________________________ 4 8 "
than pointed. Fasten to
the outer stem with glue
and six #10 x 21/2-in. fh PLYWOOD
screws, allowing it to ex- DETERMINE AT ASSEMBLY
ANGLE AFT
tend beyond the bottom ..tt 8 xl"SCREWS SIDE 13"
about 6 in. FLOOR BEAM
Two pieces are required
for the outer keel. Start-
LOWER
STEM
1
ing at the transom first END VIEW 8
BERTH SUPPORT 21•
fasten the 12-ft. length
of 3 /4 x 1 1 /2-in. stock with glue and #8 x 1 3 /4-in. fh 8' 0" FASTENS TO *2
screws spaced 6 in. apart. Then fill the gap BERTH SUPPORT
II I
between the outer stem and the 1 1 /2-in. wide
outer keel with the 7-ft. length of 3 /4 x 3 1 /2-in.
keel stock. Taper cut this piece from 11/2-in. 1 1 1 1 1
a 1 1 1 1 b BERTH SUPPORT
e
where it will join the aft outer keel to the
width of the outer stem, also bevel the end
CUT BERTH SIDES FROM
so that it will fit between the outer stem and PLYWOOD 3"X 4' X8'
stem knee. Steam this section of outer keel and a
ii
bend in place. Fasten with glue and #8 x 13/4-in. fh 24" .11 GRAIN
- a . I 41"
screws. Then fair the end of the outer stem
A" PLYWOOD 2 REQ. It
projecting beyond the bottom of the hull to a t: 1 .

blend in with the outer keel. CUT OUT FOR I I , „ 1 2 /

- r SITTING ROOM
If you are going to fiber glass the hull, now, 6" 1 124-"R I 1
before any paint is applied, is the time to do it. - 1 1, NI_L
First fill all screw heads and cracks or voids at _____________________6%6"____
seams with Famowood and thoroughly sand the
stem, keel and planking. See Materials List for s t i f f e n t h e m i s y o u r n e x t s t e p . S t a r t i n g w i t h
amount of fiber glass and resinote required to the floor beam (Sec. B-B Fig. 9, page 59), cut
cover bottom of hull up to the waterline. Com - this member 12 ft. 2 in. long and rabbet the top
plete instructions for applying are supplied with long edges % x 3 /4 in. Bevel the aft end 15° to
the fiber glass when ordered from Herter's, Waseca, fit against the transom and place it in the hull
Minnesota. centered over the keel. Then mark and cut
If you are not going to cover the hull bottom notches 3 /8 in. deep in #2, 3 and 4 frames for
with fiber glass, apply two coats of Firzite to the floor beam.
the entire hull exterior. Follow this with two The space between the keel and floor beam
thinned coats of Kuhls Brushlast and for a final is filled with struts cut from 2 x 4 in. stock.
finish, two coats of Condon's Boatlife enamel. A Measure and fit these struts to fit snugly between
fiberglassed hull should also be painted using the the frames and drill a series of 1 in. holes through
same procedure and materials with the excep tion them spaced about 8 in. apart. Fasten the struts
of the two coats of Firzite. and floor beam in place with glue and 3 /4 x 3 /4
T ur ning the hull over, whi c h i s your ne xt in. triangular fillets ripped on a circular saw.
step, will require the help of 2 or 3 men besides Fasten fillets with 1 in. galv. nails, and floor beam
yourself. Perhaps the simplest way to do this with #8 x 1 3 /4 in. fh screws to frames and struts.
is to first jack up one side of the hull about The bottom battens (Sec. C-C Fig. 9 on page
4 ft. and then gradually eas e i t ove r wi th a 59) are built up in a similar fashion, only 1 /4 in.
rope fastened around the hull and snubbed plywood is used for struts. Carefully measure
around a tree or stake driven in the ground. and fit each strut between the frames. Be sure
Fasten the rope to C-clamps on the #2 and 3 they are seated in the 1 /4 in. grooves cut in the
frames on the far side of the hull. When you bottom battens and make them flush with the
have one side of the hull jacked up about 4 ft., tops of the lower frame members. Make short
2 or 3 men can push it over the balancing point struts extending forward of #2 frame to the
and gently lower it with the rope. center of the planking butt block. Cut eight
To keep the hull in an upright position once 3/4 x 3/4 in. strips 12 ft. long for longerons on each
y o u h a v e i t t u r n e d o v e r a s i n F i g . 1 6 b u i l d side of the batten struts. Notch the frames and
the storage cradle (Fig. 20). Then jack up the t r a n s o m a n d c u t h o l e s i n t h e b u l k h e a d s f o r
hull, slide the cradle underneath and lower the these longerons.
hull onto it. Use wedges between supports and To install the longerons, you will have to feed
hull where needed to keep it from rocking. Block the m thr ough the hol e s i n the bul khe ads by
up the keel in several places to keep it straight. bending them over the transom. Fasten the bat -
Be sure to cover the open top of the hull with te n s tr uts to the gr oove s i n the batte ns wi th
a tarpaulin when you are not working on glue and 3 /4 x 3 /4 in. triangular fillets nailed in
Building up the keel and bottom battens to place. Fasten the longerons to the struts and
 BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK 65
ix!, With the coamings in place, make the two
8x2"CARRIAGE BOLTS
4
3
/4 in. deck-fastener plates from scrap stock, by
HERE STRAP IRON
marking the curves directly from the sheer plate.
TRANSOM KNEE Fasten with glue and 1 1 /4 in. galv. nails. The
coamings can then be removed and set aside
until later.
Right now, before the fore decking is applied,
is a good time to install the rope storage bulk -
head and cabin berths shown in Figs. 2 and 9,
X6"CARRIAGE
"BOLT HERE pp. 54-55, 59. Make a cardboard pattern of the
bulkhead taking dimensions directly from the
hull. Then transfer the pattern outline to 3 /8 in.
plywood and cut to shape. Drill 1 in. holes in
bul khe a d a bout 4 i n. a pa rt for ve nt i l a t i on a nd
fasten to 1A deck beam and keel upright with
1 #8 x 1 in. fh screws.
9 Berth supports on the #1 and 2 frames are
already in place, so you need only make the
frames with glue and 1 1 /4 in. nails. one shown in Fig. 18. Place a straightedge di-
When making the transom knee (Fig. 19) heat
and bend the 1 /4 x 1 1 /2 in. strap iron and fit it in
SUPPORTS AT
place on the keel against the transom so that *1 AND *4 FRAMES
you are sure the angle of the bend is correct.
Then have the 3 /4 in. pipe welded in place and
bolt the knee to the transom and keel. While
you are working at the aft end of the hull, make
up two aft deck-beam knees (Fig. 17), and one
aft deck-beam (5A in Fig. 3, page 56). Notch the
knees to clear the sheer clamps and fasten to 2X4" STOCK
the side planking 18 in. forward of the transom
as in (Fig. 2, pp. 54-55). Use three #8 x 1 1/2 in. fh
screws for each knee driven through the side 20 STORAGE CRADLE
planking from the outside. Then bolt the aft
deck beam to the forward side of the knees
with two 1 /4 x 2 in. carriage bolts at each end.
For the carlins, extending along the sheer from agonally across the supports on the #1 and 2
the transom to the #2 frame bulkhead (Fig. 9, frames and measure the distance from the top
page 59), rip two 12 ft. lengths of 3 /4 x 1 1 /4 in. of the lower stem to the bottom of the straight -
stock. Notch the forward ends 3 /8 x 36 in. as in edge. It should be 12 1 /2 in. If not, change the
Fig. 17 for the 3 /8 plywood sheer plates. When 12 1 /2 in. height distance on the support in Fig.
assembling to the hull, notch the top transom 18 to coincide. After making the support, fasten
frame piece 3 /4 in. deep, 6 in. from the side it to the top of the lower stem just forward of
planking to take the carlins flatwise (1 1/4 in. side the floor beam with a 2 1 /2 in. angle bracket.
horizontal). Also notch the aft deck beam and When laying out the shape of the 3 /8 in. ply -
#3 and 4 frames as dimensioned in Fig. 9. The wood be rt hs (Fi g. 18) i t woul d be wi s e t o fi rs t
notch in the #3 frame should only be 1 /4 in. cut one out of cardboard (the type that doors
deep. Nail a wedge tapering from 1 /2 in. to noth- a nd m a t t re s s e s a re s hi ppe d i n) a nd fi t i t i n t he
ing to the top of the bulkhead as in 19. Bolt a hull, making any cutouts and adjustments to
2x 2 in. cleat to the #2 frame bulkhead directly clear frame ribs etc. Then transfer the outline
above the end of the carlin with twe 1 /4 x 3 in. to the plywood and cut to shape. Before fasten -
carriage bolts and nail the carlin to it. Fasten ing berths in place, paint inside of hull that
the carlin at each frame notch with one #8 x will be covered by berths and underside of
11/2 in. fh screw. berths with two coats of primer followed by
W hen you have both carlins i n pl a c e , m a ke one coat of enamel. When dry, fasten berths in
two 3 /8 in. plywood sheer plates (Fig. 17) and pl a c e wi t h #8 x 1 i n. fh s c re ws .
fasten them to the carlins and 2 x 2 in. cleats With the forward cabin berths fastened in
on the bulkhead with glue and #8 x 1 in. fh place, continue painting the inside of the cabin.
screws. Now, make up two coamings as in Fig. Do not , howe ve r, pa i nt t he t op s urfa c e s of t he
17 and fit in place on the cockpit sides of the deck plates and beams because the decking must
carlins. Place a piece of 3 /8 in. plywood over be glued to these surfaces.
the aft deck beam to take the place of the Start installation of the decking at fore end of
decking when cutting the notch at the aft end hull by placing a 4x10 ft. sheet of 3 /8 in. plywood
of the coamings. Temporarily clamp the coam - on the deck beams with a 10 ft. edge centered on
i ngs in posi tion and then fa s t e n wi t h a fe w the deck batten as in Fig. 2. The plywood will
locating screws.
extend about 10 in. beyond the #2 bulkhead
frame when the fore edge is flush with the curved
66 BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK
out e r stem. Temporarily clam p t he s he e t down de c k be a m a nd fa s t e n wi t h t wo #8x1 3 / 4 i n. fh
and mark the underside along the sheer, outside screws at each joint. Aft deck and side decks are
of bulkhead and carlin gusset. The 10 in. pro - covered with 3 / 8 in. plywood. Utilize left-over and
jection becomes part of the side planking at the scrap pieces of 3 /8 in. plywood for this and ar-
curved sheer line. Remove the plywood and saw
to shape. Then replace it on the hull and fasten range so that the grain in top ply runs length-
wise of the hull at all places except at the curved
with glue and #8x1 1 /4 in fh screws spaced 3 in.
sheer plate where the plywood must be bent.
apart. Repeat the procedure on other side.
Having the grain crosswise here will facilitate
Now going to the aft end of the hull, install the
three aft deck battens as in Fig. 23. Notch the bending. Where it is necessary to splice the ply-
battens into the top transom frame piece and aft wood, fasten a 3 /4x3 in. butt block to the under-
side of the decking with glue and
#8x1 in. fh
screws. After the glue dries, plane
the edges of the decking flush and
round off the sharp corners with
coarse sandpaper if the decks are to
be covered with canvas as on the
original Sea Hawk. The decks, how-
ever, could be stained and varnished
if you prefer a natural wood finish.
Ten yards of 48 in. wide 6 oz. can-
vas or heavy-weight muslin will be
required to cover the decks. Cut the
canvas to fit over the decks allowing
1 in. overhang along the sheer and
cockpit edges for tacking in place.
Where canvas must be spliced, allow
Interior view of cockpit cabin looking forward. Pilot's seat is on 1 in. overlap. To fasten the canvas to
port (left) side of cabin. the decking, first apply a coat of
Kuhls canvas cement as it comes in
the can to the bare plywood decks.
Use the stub of a worn paint brush

1958OUTBOARDMOTORCALCULATEDPERFORMANCEDATA
TWO-CYCLE MOTORS (continued
• from p. 62)
ccir
3
z1940 5
o1522
aaZ 68 4.25
w cc
1940 79
4.84
1420 80
1500 75 5
WESTERN AUTO 1250 77 5
WIZARD 52 HP 1400 67
1250 59 6.4
1500* 67 6.7
1400 66
65 5.9
1160
1160 59 6.7
1240 59
'Rpm at which Mercury 6.6
1064* 60
motors develop advertised 1124 42 6.5
hp is not announced by 1000 50 7.8
company; hence, these 1000 56
figures, taken from collateral 7.8
1050 56
1000 55 8
printed material, should 1180 7
51
not be viewed as conclusive. 1180 42 8.3
E oc 1164 50 10
C.) ijj 1164 36 10
a. c
Y oc.) cC • 10
n W X z 1000 36
cc -w -1 ZI-
10
a.s -j • acx
CC
'now 912 32
0 >- QZ
a_ x cc zu oz E o- c.) pc.) 2 912 33 8.4
Firestone................. 16E,4200 .00381 2.3437 2.3125 19.95 .802 83,790
Oliver...................... 16@4500 .00355 2.5 2.0312 19.9 .802 89,730
Scott-Atwater......... 16@4200 .00381 2.3437 2.3125 19.95 .802 83,790
Wizard.................... 15@4200 .00357 2.5 2.0312 19.9 .754 83,580
Buccaneer............... 12g4000 .00300 2.25 2.25 17.89 .67 71,560
Evinrude................. 10E44000 .00250 2.375 1.875 16.6 .60 66,400
Firestone................. 10@4200 .00238 2.1719 2.0 14.82 .675 62,240
Johnson .............. 10EL4000 .00250 2.375 1.875 16.6 .60 66,400
Mercury MK-10...... 10(u)4250* .00235* 2.3437 2.125 18.5 .54 78,625*
Scott-Atwater.......... 10@4200 .00238 2.1719 2.0 14.82 .675 62,240
Evinrude................. 7.5@4000 .00187 2.125 1.75 12.4 .604 49,600
Johnson.................. 7.5@4000 .00187 2.125 1.75 12.4 .604 49,600
Scott-Atwater.......... 7.5@4200 .00178 2.0 1.75 11.0 .68 46,200
Mercury MK-6........ 6@4250* .00141* 1.75 1.5 7.2 .83 30,600*
Oliver...................... 66 4500 .00136 2.0 1.5 9.42 .627 42,390
Evinrude................. 5.5@4000 .00137 1.9375 1.5 8.84 .622 35,360
Johnson.................. 5.5@4000 .00137 1.9375 1.5 8.84 .622 35,360
Wizard.................... 5.5E1.4200 .00131 2.0 1.5 9.42 .584 39,600
Buccaneer............... 5@4000 .00125 1.9375 1.5 8.84 .565 35,360
Firestone ............... 5@4200 .00119 1.6875 1.6718 7.48 .668 31,416
Scott-Atwater.......... 5@4200 .00119 1.6875 1.6718 7.48 .668 31,416
Firestone................. 3.6g4000 .00090 2.125 1.75 6.23 .578 24,920
Scott-Atwater.......... 3.60.4000 .00090 2.125 1.75 6.23 .578 24,920
Buccaneer............... 3@4000 .00075 2.125 1.5 5.32 .564 21,280
Evinrude................. 3@4000 .00075 1.5625 1.375 5.28 .565 21,120
Johnson.................. 3@4000 .00075 1.5625 1.375 5.28 .565 21,120
 BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK ' 07
or metal spreader—the type used for bulkhead and the lower edge to the
floor tile mastic. Then immediately top rail of the bottom battens with
spread the canvas over the cement, glue and 1 1 /4 in. galv. nails (Fig. 25).
and using a piece of plywood as a Fasten the smaller coaming side
spreader, rub the surface of the cloth pieces to the #3 frame bulkhead with
to impregnate it with the cement. the 13/4xl%
Work out all wrinkles and tack the
folded-down edges with Y4 in. cop- go' c•
per tacks. Thin the remaining cement
with turpentine or benzine to the
consistency of thin paint and apply
a coat to the canvas. Allow the decks
to dry or cure at least two weeks
before walking upon them. When
cured, apply 3 coats of thinned
paint of the desired color. After the
paint has dried, permanently fasten
the previously made coamings to
each

side of the
cockpit.
Installation of the combination cockpit
storage cabinets and seats is your
next job. First lay out and cut two
cabinet sides (Fig. 24A). Then,
SIDEDECK

using one of the side pieces as a

pattern, lay out and cut two
cabinet coaming sides (Fig. 24B).
The pieces cut out for the door
openings can be used to make the
doors by facing them with a piece
of 3/4 in. mahogany plywood 1/2 in.
longer and wider than the cutouts as
in Fig. 24C.
Next, fasten the 3/4 in. seat-back
reinforcement pieces and other
3
/4x13/4 in. and 15/8x15/8 in. pieces to
the cabinet sides with glue and 1 1/4
in. galv. nails. Be sure to fasten the
pieces on opposite sides on each
one to make them pairs or right
and left hand. Install the cabinet
sides in the hull, fastening the
vertical edge to the #3 frame
 AFT DECK BATTENS AFT CABIN BEAM CABIN BATTENS

AFT DECK
TRIMPIECE COAMIN
G NOTCH CABIN BATTENS 2•
TED WATER LINE YELLOW

AFT

OUTE
TRAN

SIDEPL

SPRA

6"

II ___

RED
 68 BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK
3
in. cleats. Allow a / 8 in. gap between these coaming semble in position in the hull. Now, taking di -
side pieces and the coaming for the 3/ 8 in. mensions directly from the assembled cabinet
plywood cabin sides to be added later. To tem - sides in the hull, cut and fasten the cabinet top,
porarily secure the forward end of these cabinet shelf, seat and seat back pieces in place as shown in
sides, place a scrap piece of 3 / 8 in. plywood be- Fig. 24E.
twe e n the seat back projections a nd t he c oa m - To provide access to the lower part of the
ings, and nail the cabinet sides to the coamings cabinets cut openings in the #3 frame bulkheads as
(Fig. 24E). shown in Fig. 4, page 56. Use kitchen cabinet hinges
The cabinet fore bulkheads (Fig. 24D) are and latches on the doors. Cover the cab inet tops
next. The best way of determining the exact size with a plastic kitchen-sink top covering m a t e r i a l a n d
and shape to make these, is to mark and cut a u s e a l u m i n u m c o u n t e r e d g i n g around the tops.
cardboard pattern so that it exactly fits the fore The cockpit flooring is made up of six pieces of / 8 3

end of the cabinet. Then use the pattern as a in. plywood. Starting at the aft end of the cockpit,
template to mark the 1 /4 in. plywood bulkheads. measure and lay out two large pieces of plywood to
After cutting to shape, glue and nail the 3 /4 x1 5 /8 in. fit between the rabbet on the keel f l o o r b e a m
and 1 5 /8xl% in. cleats to the bulkheads and as- to the chines and from the
tCUTOUT FOR #5 transom to the aft
BULKHEAD FRAME
MAHOGANY end of the storage

DETERMINED
FROM
1 PLYWOOD
SEAT-BACK
REINFORC
MENT 3"
cabinets. Nail 3 /4x3/4
i n. c l e a t s a l ong t he
ASSEMBLED STOCK, chines (Fig. 25), and t h e
CABINET # 3 f r a m e b u l k head to
FASTEN TO
?.,, PLYWOOD
" NEAR
SIDE,IPLYWOOD,2-REG support the floor. The
24 CUT FROM sic SIDE
-
. _________34f,
SIDES CABINET COAMING other four pieces of
-
OVERLAP ALL
HELMSMAN'S T Y P I C A L C ' A R O U N D CABINET
I RIGHT - LEFT flooring are much
SEAT PLYWOOD DOOR BOTTOM V I E W I:x16 FASTENED smaller. Two of them
2 REQ. TO FAR END
extend from the forward
8
I VFASTEN TO FAR
SEAT-BACK SIDE
REINFORCE- ends of the pi e c e s
MENT r ASSEMBLE THIS END
T O -
- # 3 1 ,. you j us t l a i d to the cabin bulkhead and
STOCK, x
FASTEN TO FRAME ----------------------------------A_ between the keel 3 1 " and
LKHEAD
FAR SIDE ,,J?, E X 1- !CLEATS, s t o r a g e c a b i n e t s . The other
xl-ZFASTEN CUTOUT FASTEN TO FAR two pieces c o v e r t h e a r e a i n
STOVE FOR SIDE AND HULL f r o n t o f a n d b e l o w the cabinet
2 TO FAR SIDE SIDE
COMPARTMENT. SIDE PLANKING
31" CUT OUT BATTEN seats. Install 3/4x 3/4 in. cleats where
OPENING AND
-§ FASTEN
FO R BOTTOM needed to support the
5 5" BATTEN
TO FAR SIDE
DOOR floor boards.
0 0 GOES TO —"- Paint the top and
SIDE OF 1.
1-
THIS DOOR BOAT undersides (4
of t h e flooring with two
OPENS AT
BOTTOM "X^ VIEW
coats of primer followed
SHELF 35"\ SEAT CABINET FORE BULKHEAD ,IPLYW by one coat of deck
HERE END VIEW MAKE CARDBOARD PATTERN TO enamel. So that the floor
BOTTOM EDGE FLOOR LINE r VENT
DETERMINED " x " DIMENSIONS
A

C A B I N E T S i D E , ; P L Y W 2 RED. HOLES
can be removed if
INSERT PIECE T PLYWOOD
I RIGHT-I LEFT #3 FRAME
CABINET BULKHEAD
necessary, fasten with
3" COAMING TOP #8x1 1 /4 in. fh screws spaced about 6 in. apart.
SCRAP BETWEEN SEAT SIDE AND SEAT
COAMING AS TEMPORARY BACK Also floor the area just inside the cabin door with
SPACER
FOR CABIN
two small pieces of plywood on each side of the
SIDE keel.
The cockpit cabin is the next item of assembly.
SHELF Lay out and cut the cabin sides (Fig. 27) to shape
first. Then temporarily clamp them in position
on the hull. Place a straightedge and level across
the top edges of the cabin sides to make certain
one side is not higher than the other. Since it
would be almost impossible to hold the distance
between the cabin sides to an exact dimension on
CLAMP every boat built, measure the distance be tween
SIDE the cabin sides you have just clamped in position
BATTEN
and make the windshield frame (Fig. 27) to suit
your particular boat. Cut the top and bot tom frame
CARLIN members from a single piece of lum ber as in Fig.
CHINE
27A by tilting the bandsaw table 35°. Fit the
CABINET bottom member to the fore decking with a spoke
FLOOR
SUPPORTS SIDE shave.
CABINET-
E FORE BULKHEAD FLOOR BAT CABINET FLOOR