O.R NO.

1 (C) individual Written Report

1. Adjust your Boost sensor

The boost pressure sensor measures the absolute pressure before the throttle valve.
The engine control unit uses its signal to calculate a correction value for the boost pressure. By
detecting the amount of boost and air density in the car's intake manifold, the car's electronic
control unit or ECU can determine how much fuel is needed in the car's combustion chamber so
that the air-fuel mixture is at its best. Proper air-fuel mixture is critical to engines since this
translates to better and more efficient power production. This not only makes the engine more
powerful, but also makes the engine run effectively, maximizing every drop of fuel.

When the manifold pressure is low (high vacuum) sensor voltage output is 0.25-1.8V at the
ECM. When the intake manifold pressure is high due to turbo boost, sensor voltage output is
2.0-4.7V. Pressure range is between 10kPa and 350kPa. The sensor receives a 5V reference
from the ECM. Sensor ground is also provides by the ECM. The ECM uses boost pressure
combined with intake air temerature to determine the volume of air entering the engine.

Order to verify functionality of the BPS

• Testing the supply voltage

Disconnect the plug from the sensor.

Turn on the ignition.

Set the multimeter to “DC voltage”.

Measure the supply voltage between pin C (3) and earth A (1). It should be approximately 5V.

If this value is not reached, the fault in the voltage supply must be located.

• Testing the output signal

Remove the pressure sensor from the intake manifold.

Connect the vacuum hand pump to the pressure sensor.

Turn on the ignition.

Set the multimeter to “DC voltage”.

Set the lower absolute pressure value P-low.

Test the lower output signal U-low between pin B (2) and earth A (1).

1
Set the upper absolute pressure value P-high.

Test the upper output signal U-high between pin B (2) and earth A (1).

• Fast verification of the BPS using an oscilloscope

Restore all connections to the BPS as during normal engine work.

Attach the ground lead of the oscilloscope to the chassis ground.

Connect the active oscilloscope test lead to the signal terminal of the BPS (usually in the
middle).

Start the engine and leave it idling.

Sharply press the throttle and then immediately release it. Note that voltage will not rise up to
its maximum when the car is not running. This is normal due to the low engine load.

You should watch DC output signal varying from 1.0V to 3.0V, which will change simultaneously
with the throttle position.

Possible failures in the BPS:

- Chaotic output signal

Chaotic output signal is, when the voltage signal changes randomly, drops to zero and
disappears.

This usually happens when an inefficient BPS is present. In this case the sensor must be
replaced.

- Missing of signal voltage

Check whether the supply voltage is applied (+5.0V).

Check the grounding for problems.

If the supply voltage and the grounding are correct, check the signal wire between the BPS and
the onboard controller.

If the supply voltage and/or grounding are not correct, check the integrity of the wires between
the sensor and the ECU.

If all wires of the sensor are correct, check all connections for the reference voltage and ground
of the onboard controller.

2
If they are correct under suspicion falls the controller.

- The BPS power supply or signal is equal to the car battery voltage.

Check for a short circuit to the positive terminal of the car battery.

• Other checks:

Check for excessive fuel in the vacuum hose or trap.

Check the vacuum hose for leaks and/or other damages.

Check for mechanical damaged parts of the engine, ignition system or in the fuel system,
causing low vacuum.

2. Diesel Fuel Injector Test (Mechanical)

The fuel injectors in your diesel engine are vital to the operation of your vehicle. When
they function properly, you enjoy a smooth-running vehicle that gives you all the power you
need for getting around and getting things done. When operating at peak performance, your
fuel injectors get you the fuel efficiency you expect from your vehicle and help keep your
engine’s emissions safe. In this article, we will teach you how to test your fuel injectors.

FIRST, TAKE A LOOK

Your approach will depend on the type of fuel injection in your vehicle. If you have a throttle
body injection (TBI) system, begin with these steps:

Remove the air filter housing.

Have someone else start the engine while you take a look.

Look at the fuel spraying from each injector.

If the fuel is partially atomized and spraying in a v-shaped pattern, that injector is fine.

If the fuel spray is broken or solid, the injector is clogged. You can try to unclog it with a fuel
cleaner additive or take it to your mechanic.

If there is no fuel spraying from the injector, it could be completely clogged, a bad injector or
something is wrong elsewhere like the fuel pump or fuel filter. If that’s the case, move to the
next steps.

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LISTEN CLOSELY—BUT CAREFULLY!

The next steps apply to a TBI system injector that is completely clogged or not functioning, as
well as vehicles that utilize electronic fuel injection (EFI) systems. This is where that long
screwdriver or metal rod comes in.

Start the engine and place the end of the screwdriver on a fuel injector.

Carefully lean your head toward the far end of the screwdriver or rod. Make sure you have your
safety gear on. If the injector is activating properly, you should be able to hear a clicking sound.

Repeat the screwdriver test on each injector and take note of each one that you can’t hear
clicking.

Turn off the engine and turn on the battery so the lights, radio, and other electronics are on but
not the engine.

Connect the clip of the automotive test light to the negative terminal of your vehicle’s battery.
Then take the pointed tip of the test light and touch it to the small bit of exposed wire on the
fuel injector connector. The test light should light up if the injector is functioning properly.

Repeat the test light procedure for each injector, taking note of each one that does not light up.

What You’ll Need to Test Your Fuel Injectors

The tools you’ll need to test your fuel injectors are relatively simple, and you probably have
most of them lying around in your house or garage. The list of items you’ll need to test fuel
injectors includes:

Work gloves for safety

Protective eyewear

Long screwdriver or metal rod (about one foot in length)

Automotive test light

Use Your Senses

When things aren’t right with your fuel injectors:

You lose power

Emissions get worse

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Your fuel efficiency tanks

This can be very frustrating, especially considering the thought you put into opting for a diesel
engine.

While the prospect of testing your own fuel injectors can seem intimidating if you’ve never
done it before, it’s actually a lot simpler than it seems. With our tips, you can quickly learn how
to test fuel injectors in only 30 minutes.

Those tools are helpful and we’re going to use them, but the most important tools in testing
fuel injectors are probably what you already carry around: your eyes and ears.

Knowing how to test fuel injectors is a fairly simple process that can help you diagnose any
problems with your fuel injection system. There can be times, though, when all of your injectors
pass the above tests and there still seems to be a problem with the system and your engine’s
performance. In these instances, there could be something wrong with a peripheral system, or
the injectors can appear alright but have something more subtle going on. In this case, you’ll
want to take your vehicle to a mechanic for further testing.

Sometimes, fuel injection or peripheral issues can be hard to diagnose. The tests you already
ran on your fuel injectors will help guide your mechanic’s diagnosis and save time while getting
to the heart of the matter.

Make a Plan of Action

If you test each fuel injector and find one or more not working, you now know which injectors
need to be cleaned or replaced. If you are comfortable removing them yourself, cleaning them
is relatively straightforward.

Once you have removed an injector, spray it with an undiluted fuel system, throttle system, or
carburetor cleaner to flush out any residue that is obstructing the injector. Once you have done
this with each of the suspect injectors, you can replace them and test them again.

How to Prevent Future Fuel Injector Problems

If your injectors are bad, they will need to be replaced. The key is to replace them with the best
fuel injectors you can buy, so you can get the reliable performance you need from your diesel
engine. Buy Dieselogic fuel injectors to ensure:

High engine performance

Fuel efficiency

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Cleaner emissions

Once you know how to test fuel injectors and have solved the problem, talk with your mechanic
about the possible underlying causes. There are many factors that can cause injectors to fail,
including major internal and external deposit buildups. Your mechanic can give you some tips
on how to prevent buildups, such as using a fuel system cleaner. You might not need to add a
system cleaner every time you fill up, but using it regularly can help keep your system clean and
free of deposits.

Dieselogic Fuel Injectors for Peak Performance

These tips will help you test your fuel injectors and keep the engine efficient and clean. Your
diesel vehicle will keep running the way you expect it to, so it won’t slow you down again. You
will also be able to prevent loss of engine performance and even avoid more significant damage
to your engine down the road.

Don’t mess around with inferior fuel injectors. Upgrade to Dieselogic fuel injectors for quality,
and so that you’re getting the power and efficiency you expect from your diesel engine.

3. Fuel injectors- How They work/ Science Garage

Fuel injector service is a must to preserve the performance of your vehicle. Fuel
injectors are located in the intake manifold and spray fuel through a tiny nozzle. The fuel
injector uses a special nozzle to spray the fuel as mist, instead of a strong jet stream. Just think
of the nozzle on the hose you use in your yard. You can change how the water flows out of your
nozzle. There can be jet stream, shower, mist, and many more settings. A fuel injector must
spray fuel as a mist because it’s easier for your engine to burn. When you step on your gas
pedal, your vehicle’s throttle valve (which is a valve that opens and lets air into your engine)
works in conjunction with your fuel injectors. When the throttle valve opens, your fuel injector
sprays fuel to mix with the air and then enters the engine’s combustion cylinders. Fuel injectors
can become dirty and clogged over time, which will lead to poor performance, bad gas mileage,
and even dirty exhaust emissions. A fuel injector can become clogged around its valve and
nozzle. The opening on a fuel injector’s nozzle is very minute; since a fuel injector’s nozzle must
spray a fine mist, any tiny build-up of fuel can affect the fuel injector’s performance. Build-up
can consist of wax, dirt, and other carbon deposits. Most build-up occurs from short trips,
meaning a vehicle that normally travels for only fifteen minutes; low-quality gasoline that does
not contain detergents also causes build-ups. Detergents can actually clean a fuel injector while
you are driving, but many refineries are removing the detergents from their fuel to sell gas at a
cheaper price.If a fuel injector is dirty or clogged, your engine won’t get the necessary flow of

6
fuel to mix with the air, which will lead to poor acceleration, engine performance, and gas
mileage.Fuel injection service can be done with leaving the fuel injector in the vehicle or taking
it out. Almost all of the time, fuel injection service can be done with the fuel injector still in the
car, unless it needs to be replaced. During a full fuel injection service, several things are done:
your fuel pump’s pressure and volume is checked; your pressure regulator is checked; your fuel
rail, which is the pipe that sends the fuel from your pump to your fuel injector, and fuel injector
screen is flushed; your fuel injectors are flushed and cleaned; your throttle valve and air
passages are flushed; and your engine’s computer is checked to make sure the air/fuel mixture
is correct and all of the sensors are working.

4. Diesel Unit Injection

Purpose of Fuel Injection System

The performance of diesel engines is heavily influenced by their injection system design. In fact,
the most notable advances achieved in diesel engines resulted directly from superior fuel
injection system designs. While the main purpose of the system is to deliver fuel to the
cylinders of a diesel engine, it is how that fuel is delivered that makes the difference in engine
performance, emissions, and noise characteristics.

Unlike its spark-ignited engine counterpart, the diesel fuel injection system delivers fuel under
extremely high injection pressures. This implies that the system component designs and
materials should be selected to withstand higher stresses in order to perform for extended
durations that match the engine’s durability targets. Greater manufacturing precision and tight
tolerances are also required for the system to function efficiently. In addition to expensive
materials and manufacturing costs, diesel injection systems are characterized by more intricate
control requirements. All these features add up to a system whose cost may represent as much
as 30% of the total cost of the engine.

The main purpose of the fuel injection system is to deliver fuel into the cylinders of an engine.
In order for the engine to effectively make use of this fuel:

Fuel must be injected at the proper time, that is, the injection timing must be controlled and

The correct amount of fuel must be delivered to meet power requirement, that is, injection
metering must be controlled.

However, it is still not enough to deliver an accurately metered amount of fuel at the proper
time to achieve good combustion. Additional aspects are critical to ensure proper fuel injection
system performance including:

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Fuel atomization—ensuring that fuel atomizes into very small fuel particles is a primary design
objective for diesel fuel injection systems. Small droplets ensure that all the fuel has a chance to
vaporize and participate in the combustion process. Any remaining liquid droplets burn very
poorly or are exhausted out of the engine. While modern fuel injection systems are able to
produce fuel atomization characteristics far exceeding what is needed to ensure complete fuel
evaporation during most of the injection process, some injection system designs may have poor
atomization during some brief but critical periods of the injection phase. The end of the
injection process is one such critical period.

Bulk mixing—While fuel atomization and complete evaporation of fuel is critical, ensuring that
the evaporated fuel has sufficient oxygen during the combustion process is equally as important
to ensure high combustion efficiency and optimum engine performance. The oxygen is provided
by the intake air trapped in the cylinder and a sufficient amount must be entrained into the fuel
jet to completely mixed with the available fuel during the injection process and ensure
complete combustion.

Air utilization—Effective utilization of the air in the combustion chamber is closely tied to bulk
mixing and can be accomplished through a combination of fuel penetration into the dense air
that is compressed in the cylinder and dividing the total injected fuel into a number of jets. A
sufficient number of jets should be provided to entrain as much of available air as possible
while avoiding jet overlap and the production of fuel rich zones that are oxygen deficient.

The primary purposes of the diesel fuel injection system are graphically represented in Figure 1.

Definition of Terms

Many specialized concepts and terms are used to describe the components and the operation
of diesel fuel injection systems. Some of the more common of these include [Breitbach 2002]
[Bosch 2004]:

Nozzle refers to the part of the nozzle body/needle assembly which interfaces with the
combustion chamber of the engine. Terms like P-Type, M-Type, or S-Type nozzle refer to
stndardized dimensions of nozzle parameters, as per ISO specifications.

Nozzle holder or injector body refers to the part the nozzle is mounted on. In conventional
injection systems this part mainly served the nozzle mounting and nozzle needle spring
preloading function. In common rail systems, it contains the main functional parts: the servo-
hydraulic circuit and the hydraulic actuator (electromagnetic or piezoelectric).

Injector commonly refers to the nozzle holder and nozzle assembly.

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Start of injection (SOI) or injection timing is the time at which injection of fuel into the
combustion chamber begins. It is usually expressed in crank angle degrees (CAD) relative to TDC
of the compression stroke. In some cases, it is important to differentiate between the indicated
SOI and actual SOI. SOI is often indicated by an easily measured parameter such as the time
that an electronic trigger is sent to the injector or a signal from a needle lift sensor that
indicates when the injector needle valve starts to open. The point in the cycle where this occurs
is the indicated SOI. Due to the mechanical response of the injector, there can be a delay
between the indicated SOI and the actual SOI when fuel exits the injector nozzle into the
combustion chamber. The difference between the actual SOI and indicated SOI is the injector
lag.

Start of delivery. In some fuel systems, fuel injection is coordinated with the generation of high
pressure. In such systems, the start of delivery is the time when the high pressure pump starts
to deliver fuel to the injector. The difference between start of delivery and SOI is affected by
the length of time it takes for a pressure wave to travel between the pump and injector and is
influenced by the length of line between the high pressure pump and the injector and by the
speed of sound in the fuel. The difference between the start of delivery and SOI can be referred
to as injection delay.

End of injection (EOI) is the time in the cycle when fuel injection stops.

Injected fuel quantity is the amount of fuel delivered to an engine cylinder per power stroke. It
is often expressed in mm3/stroke or mg/stroke.

Injection duration is the period of time during which fuel enters the combustion chamber from
the injector. It is the difference between EOI and SOI and is related to injection quantity.

Injection pattern. The rate of injection of fuel often varies during the injection duration period.
Figure 2 shows three common rate shapes: boot, ramp and square. Opening rate and closing
rate refers to the gradients in the rate of injection during needle nozzle opening and closing
events, respectively.

Multiple injection events. While conventional fuel injection systems employ a single injection
event for every engine cycle, newer systems can use multiple injection events. Figure 3 defines
some of the common terms used to describe multiple injection events. It should be noted that
the terminology is not always consistent. The main injection event provides the bulk of the fuel
for the engine cycle. One or more injections before the main injection, pre-injections, provide a
small amount of fuel before the main injection event. Pre-injections can also be referred to as
pilot injection. Some refer to a pre-injection that occurs a relatively long time before the main
injection as a pilot and one that occurs a relatively short time before the main injection as a
pre-injection. Injections after the main injections, post-injections, can occur immediately after

9
the main injection (close post-injection) or a relatively long time after the main injection (late
post-injection). Post-injections are sometimes called after-injections. While there is
considerable variation in terminology, a close post-injection will be referred to as a post-
injection and a late post-injection as an after-injection. The term split injection is occasionally
used to refer to multiple injection strategies where a main injection is split into two smaller
injections of approximately equal size or into a smaller pre-injection followed by a main
injection. Unintended post-injections can occur in some fuel injection systems when the nozzle
momentarily re-opens after closing. These are sometimes referred to as secondary injections.

Injection pressure is not used consistently in the literature. It may refer to the mean pressure in
the hydraulic system for common rail systems, or to the maximum pressure during an injection
(peak injection pressure) in conventional systems.

Basic Fuel System Components Fuel Injection System Components

With a few exceptions, fuel systems can be broken down into two major component groups:

Low pressure side components—These components serve to safely and reliably deliver fuel
from the tank to the fuel injection system. Low pressure side components include the fuel tank,
fuel supply pump and the fuel filter.

High pressure side components—Components that create high pressures, meter and deliver the
fuel to the combustion chamber. They include the high pressure pump the fuel injector and fuel
injection nozzle. Some systems may also include an accumulator.

Fuel injection nozzles can be categorized as hole-type or throttling pintle type and as either a
closed or open. Closed nozzles can be actuated hydraulically using a simple spring-biased
mechanism or using servo control. Open nozzles as well as some newer closed nozzle injector
designs can be directly actuated.

Metering of the injected fuel amount is commonly carried out in either the high pressure pump
or the fuel injector. A number of different fuel metering approaches exist including: pressure
metered at a constant time interval (PT), time metered at a constant pressure (TP) and
time/stroke metered (TS).

Most fuel injection systems use electronics to control the opening and closing of the nozzle.
Electrical signals are converted into mechanical forces using some type of actuator. Commonly,
these actuators can be either electromagnetic solenoids or active materials such a piezoelectric
ceramics.

Basic fuel injection system components are discussed in a separate paper.

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5. Working of Diesel fuel and how nozzle spray
Design of the diesel fuel injector nozzle is critical to the performance and emissions of
modern diesel engines. Some of the important injector nozzle design parameters include details
of the injector seat, the injector sac and nozzle hole size and shape. These features not only
affect the combustion characteristics of the diesel engine, they can also affect the stability of
the emissions and performance over the lifetime of the engine and the mechanical durability of
the injector.

All nozzles must produce a fuel spray that meets the requirements of the performance and
emissions goals of the market for which the engine is produced regardless of details of the fuel
system design (i.e., regardless if the fuel system is of the common rail, unit injector, unit pump
or pump-line-nozzle type). Additionally, specific requirements for injection nozzles can also
depend on the fuel system type [Potz 2000]:

Common rail—nozzle operates under more demanding tribological conditions and must be
better designed to prevent leakage.

Unit injector/unit pump—pressure pulsing conditions create more demanding fatigue strength
requirements.

Pump-line-nozzle—hydraulic dead volume must be minimized.

6. Fuel injection cleaning in less than 5 minutes

The first cleaning method we wanted to test was Fuel Injector Cleaner. Also known as
injector cleaning additives. This type cleaner is poured into the fuel tank and mix with the fuel.
The injectors were reinstalled without cleaning them. The fuel tank was drained. A quality
brand name fuel injection cleaner was mixed to the exact manufacturers specification with 5
gallons of fresh fuel and then pored in the fuel tank. Cost for the injector cleaner was $12.50.
Within a couple of minutes after start-up it was noticed that the engine started to run a little
rougher.

This time the car would only produce 63 HP on the first dyno pull but could not complete a
second dyno pull because the engine bogged down and started to misfire badly. The AFR went
lean indicating an AFR of 17:1 and up.

11
Now the engine would not maintain idle and had to be kept alive by means of additional
throttle input.

The fuel injector were removed and flow tested. This time the injectors flowed 128, 162, 136
and 122. In addition, two of the injectors was now leaking.

Conclusion:

The injector cleaner loosen dirt in the fuel line and rail and partially clogged the injectors.

Injector cleaners might be inexpensive but be careful because their use can have disastrous
consequences.

Fuel Rail Induced Injector Cleaner

We re-installed the injectors without cleaning them. This time we used fuel rail induced high
pressure injector cleaner. Cost at a dealer or an auto repair shop for doing this procedure
would vary between $225.00 and $350.00. After the process the engine just managed to run
without additional input but as soon as the throttle was touched the engine would die. Starting
became hard and a fuel smell was noticeable during cranking.

Needless to say that strapping the car down on the dyno was a waste of time.

Injector flow testing revealed 142, 154, 146 and 128 but now all 4 injectors are leaking. We
noticed that two of the injectors now has damaged filter baskets. We removed the rest of the
damaged filter baskets from the injectors and proceeded to back flush them. Apart from the
normal dirt expected, filter basket material was present in the debris. We again leak tested the
two injectors that we back flushed. Flow went back up to 168 and 180 and this time they were
not leaking.

Conclusion:

The rail induced injection cleaning procedure damaged the filter baskets on some of the
injectors. Chunks of debris was forced past the filter baskets on some injectors and some
chunks was loosen from the pintle shafts. Those pieces was too big to pass through the pintle
and seat, and lodge itself between the pintle and seat causing the injector to leak. On the other
injectors debris and filter basket material lodge itself between the pintle seats. Exactly what we
told the dealer is happening when they perform their cleaning process.

DIY Injector Cleaning

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Not to side step the proponents of the DIY cleaning process we rigged up a 12 volt auto battery
with a push type on of switch, a syringe with carburetor cleaner and followed the procedure as
described in some of the YouTube videos. To make sure that we do a “thorough job” we
repeated the process 5 times per injector and then back to the flow bench. The results 172,
174, 180 and 174 cc/min. We saw a small improvement from the original flow test. It was minor
and not enough to warrant additional dyno time.

7. How to CLEAN injection Directly without Disassembly

You can also clean the injectors yourself with a few simple tools. First, remove the fuel
injectors from the engine and disassemble them. Then, soak the injectors in a cleaning solution
for a few hours. After that, use compressed air to blow out any remaining deposits.

To clean the fuel injectors yourself, you'll need a few tools:

A socket wrench

A screwdriver

Cleaning solution

Compressed air

Do-it-yourself cleaning is cheaper than other methods, but it's also more time-consuming. And
if you're not careful, you could damage the injectors. It's important to note that some
warranties may be voided if you attempt to clean the injectors yourself.

Cleaning the fuel injectors is an important part of maintaining your vehicle's engine. By keeping
the injectors clean, you can extend the life of the engine and improve its performance. With so
many different ways to clean fuel injectors, there's no excuse not to do it. Choose the method
that's right for you and keep your engine running smoothly.

8. How to test faulty injector/Diesel Engine/ TAGALOG

Testing fuel injectors is sometimes easier than you think, whether on a TBI (throttle
body injection) or an EFI (electronic fuel injection) system.

13
Tire Cupping: Wear Patterns, Causes, and Fixes

CRAIG MCCALLAWAY

Often, these injectors face common problems you can diagnose visually (TBI), or with the use of
some simple tools.

The modern fuel injection system works more efficiently and reliably than the previous
carburetor model. The system has better control over the air-fuel mixture under any driving
conditions. Occasionally, though, buildup from impurities in the fuel or mechanical or electrical
problems in the injector system may contribute to rough idle, misfires, harmful emissions, poor
engine performance, and poor fuel economy.

This guide can help you get those injectors back in shape by applying some simple tests you can
use for both TBI and EFI systems.

Testing TBI Injectors by Checking the Fuel Spray

Testing EFI Injectors by Listening

Testing the Injector Coil Using a Multimeter

Testing the Injector Controlling Circuit Using a Test Light

Testing the Injector Controlling Circuit Using a Noid Light

TBI SystemTBI System

Photo courtesy of dave_7 on Flickr.

Testing TBI Injectors By Inspecting the Fuel Spray

You can visually inspect the fuel spray on TBI system injectors. Fuel flow spray is readily
accessible, making it fast to check for potential problems.

Remove the cover of the air cleaner housing (where the air filter lives).

Ask an assistant to start (or crank the engine if it doesn't start).

Check the spray pattern coming out of the injector.

Fuel should come out partially atomized in an inverted V pattern. A single, solid spray or
irregular pattern means the injector needs cleaning or that an internal part is worn out or
broken.

14
You can try to fix an irregular fuel spray pattern by adding a quality cleaning fuel system
additive to the fuel tank. Or take your car to the service shop and have them clean the system.

On the other hand, if you don't see fuel coming out, there may be several reasons for this:

Blocked fuel injector

Bad injector

Injector not receiving power

Bad fuel pressure regulator

Fuel filter clogged

Bad fuel pump

To troubleshoot the injector, apply the tests described in the following section, "Testing EFI
Injectors."

Electronic Fuel Injection system components.Electronic Fuel Injection system

components.Photo courtesy of Albertas Agejevas on Flickr.

Testing EFI Injectors By Listening

Unlike injectors on throttle body fuel injection (TBI) systems, those used on an Electronic Fuel
Injection (EFI) configuration don't have their fuel spraying accessible for inspection. Sometimes,
the fuel rail assembly, which holds the injectors in place, offers little room to access the
injectors without removing the complete assembly. So it's hard to check the spraying pattern of
each injector without the proper equipment.

9. How to tell if you have a bad Diesel fuel injection pump.

The diesel injection pump is responsible for inducing high amounts of pressure to allow
your diesel fuel to be delivered by the diesel fuel injectors. The pump rotates in lockstep with
the engine so that the right amount of pressure can be delivered at the perfect time. A diesel
injection pump operates just like a traditional fuel injection pump (for non-diesel vehicles)
except that they are specifically designed for diesel fuel and diesel vehicles.

Signs of a bad diesel injection pump

Poor engine performance

15
Engine won’t start

Engine misfires

Difficulty starting the engine

Unusual amounts of smoke coming from exhaust

Diesel injection pump maintenance

If you notice any of the above signs, get your vehicle serviced by a car care professional right
away. These same engine issues may arise due to dirty fuel filters, bad glow plugs, poor injector
pump timing, poor fuel quality, or low engine compression, so your car care professional will
first inspect all of these components to ensure that the issue indeed lies with the diesel
injection pump. Once the issue is diagnosed, it is likely that the diesel injection pump will need
replacement.

10. Slipping clutch Diagnosis

A slipping clutch involves constant engagement and disengagement, preventing power
from reaching the wheels and stopping the car from moving.

Signs of a slipping clutch include unusual noises, a burning smell, difficulty changing gears, a
spongy clutch pedal, and poor acceleration.

Causes can include aggressive driving, old or poorly maintained vehicles and inadequate
servicing.

If your clutch is slipping, book a repair with a trusted garage as soon as possible.

Mechanic replacing old clutch

Whether you’re experiencing a sticky clutch pedal or strange rumbling noises from your
footwell, there’s a good chance you’re noticing that your clutch is on the way out. This article
takes you through everything there is to know about a slipping clutch, so you’re armed with the
knowledge to deal with it safely and efficiently.

What is a slipping clutch?

When you feel your clutch ‘slipping’, what’s really happening is it’s engaging and disengaging
constantly, meaning that no power is being delivered to the wheels and, of course, the car

16
won’t move forward. This is a common problem with manual vehicles and, as such, should be
checked every 60,000 miles or so.

How to tell if your clutch is slipping

If you’re concerned that your clutch might be slipping but you’re not entirely sure what the
telltale signs are, here are some of the key things to look out for:

Squeaky or unusual rumbling/gurgling noises when pressure is applied to the pedals

A burning smell when revving the engine

Difficulty changing gears

The clutch pedal sticking, vibrating or feeling spongy. If you’re unsure what we mean by a
spongy clutch pedal, the chances are you haven’t experienced it!

Poor acceleration, despite the fact you’re still able to rev your engine

Momentary loss of acceleration caused by the feeling of a clutch that’s slipping

11.How to Replace a clutch in your Car or truck (FULL DIY Guide)

A clutch replacement can be completed at home using car stands to raise the vehicle
and a trolley jack to remove the gearbox. A clutch alignment tool is highly recommended,
otherwise you could spend a great deal of time attempting to line up the clutch plate and input
shaft spline. It will take you approximately 5-6 hours to complete the job with the right clutch
tools.

Here's how to go about it.

NOTE: The vehicle used for this demonstration is a rear wheel drive Ford Falcon - your vehicle
may require different techniques to complete the change.

Items

Materials

Replacement Clutch

Clutch Alignment Tool

Brake & Clutch Fluid

17
Brake & Clutch Bleeder

Wheel Chocks

Tools

Various Screwdrivers

Socket Set

Breaker Bar

Trolley Jack

Jack Stands or Ramps

Steps

Disconnect Battery, Unbolt Shifter & Raising the Vehicle

First steps involve disconnecting the battery, unbolting the shifter within the cabin (two bolts),
and with the car off the ground, undoing the clutch cable from the fork lever within the dust
cover on the side of the gearbox. The clutch cable needs to be slackened by loosening the
adjustment nuts at the firewall in the engine bay

Disconnect Sensor Wires

Next, disconnect the sensor wires from the gearbox and loosen and then disconnect handbrake
cable so the gearbox can be removed.

Remove Tailshaft

The tailshaft has to come out, which is a straightforward removal of four nuts and bolt

Section off Exhaust

A section of the exhaust has to come out to help with access. Bolts located on the exhaust are
generally difficult to remove due to dirt, rust and the constant expanding and contracting of the
hot exhaust pipe. A penetrant, such as WD40, can help loosen difficult bolts

Remove Starter Motor & Bellhousing Bolts

With everything out of the way, remove the starter motor and begin removing the bellhousing
bolts. Some bolts may be difficult to access and require extra tools such as long extensions,
swivel joints and breaker bars.

18
Remove Gearbox

Next remove the gearbox.

If it is only you, then you could use a gearbox jack or similar, or if you are on the ground, then
you could also use a trolley jack. It really is a two person job, however.

Remove Pressure Plate

Remove the old pressure plate and flywheel. To keep the engine from rotating while removing
the flywheel bolts, use a large screwdriver slotted into the teeth and locked against the body.

Inspect Flywheel

A second-hand flywheel was purchased from a wreckers and machined up so it was ready to go.

Clean Bellhousing

Clean the inside of the bellhousing throughly

Fit Flywheel & Pressure Plate

Fit the new flywheel and pressure plate and tightened to the manufacturers specified torque.

A dab of locknut was used on all flywheel and pressure plate bolts

Note the use of the clutch alignment tool.

Refit Gearbox

Refitting the gearbox is largely a reverse process including reconnecting all the cables and wires

Clutch Cable Adjustments

Clutch cable is adjusted at the firewall by turning the two bolts (the second locks off against the
first). The clutch telemetry should find the friction point after about an inch of pedal
movement.

12. Clutch pedal Adjustment

When fitting a new clutch component, clutch adjustment maybe required. Many
technicians

19
believe the Hilux Pickups, Hilux Surfs & Land Cruisers have a hydraulic clutch system where
there is no clutch adjustment, this is incorrect.

They do have clutch adjustment and are adjustable; below we demonstrate how clutch

adjustment can be achieved.

If your clutch pedal feels different it’s time for an adjustment at a minimum. If it’s loose,
spongy, sticking or vibrating, you may need more than an adjustment. Your clutch pedal should
operate smoothly and you should be able to feel the catch at about the same place each time
you change gears. If you notice anything strange underneath your foot, have your clutch pedal
and clutch inspected.

Grumbling or Squeaking

Your clutch shouldn’t make noise either. You might grind the gears the first few times you drive
the vehicle until you get used to the clutch feel, but after that, gear shifts should be silent from
the pedal and the clutch. Squeaking could just mean your pedal needs to be oiled; grumbling is
a sign your clutch needs more than oil. Either way, have the issue checked out to avoid
additional damage.

Poor Acceleration

If you can get your engine to rev but your car, truck or SUV doesn’t accelerate as it should, your
clutch is definitely going. The clutch engages the transmission gears, and if your vehicles revs
without acceleration, it means that the clutch has not engaged first gear, reverse or whatever
gear you have the transmission in. Don’t put getting this fixed as it can further damage your
transmission.

13. When your clutch pedal Just Fails to the floor

A clutch pedal that stays on the floor means that you have binding problems with the
linkage or release bearing. In this case, check that the springs in the linkage are not over-
stretched – they may need adjustment. You may also want to inspect the release bearing and
check that the pedal stop is in place.

Clutch Failure Symptom 5: Clutch Pedal Feels Loose or Spongey

If your clutch pedal feels loose or spongey, then check the release bearing or clutch fork for
damage. Frequently we find failure in the pressure-plate diaphragm spring in mechanical units.

20
If you have a hydraulic clutch release mechanism, check for:

Air in the hydraulic system

Low fluid in the reservoir

Leaking hose or pipe

Leaking connection

Master cylinder, center valve seal fault

Master cylinder, piston primary seal leak

pressure plate

Clutch Failure Symptom 6: Clutch Pedal is Hard to Engage

Every clutch requires some amount of input or force from the drive to fully depress and engage.
If you find yourself pressing excessively hard to engage the clutch, then you have a problem
with the release mechanism. In mechanical applications, this is a sticking or binding pedal
linkage, cable, cross shaft, or pivot ball. For hydraulic systems, this will be a blockage or worn
seals in your hydraulic system. In mechanical systems check the cable, linkage, clutch fork,
pressure plate, and throw-out bearing and see if everything is properly lubricated or worn out.

Clutch Failure Symptom 7: Transmission Makes A Grinding, Whirling, or Chirping Noise in

Neutral

Of all the clutch failure symptoms you may notice, this is the most difficult to determine. If your
car makes a grinding, whirling, or chirping sound when the transmission is in neutral, but the
noise goes away when you depress the clutch pedal, it’s possible that the noise is coming from
a worn-out input shaft bearing. It can be unclear whether the issue is caused by a faulty clutch
or bad transmission, so be sure to ask your Reno transmission repair shop if you begin
experiencing complications.

Clutch Failure Symptom 8: Grinding Occurs When Shifting Gears

If you hear grinding when shifting gears, that means the clutch disc remains engaged. The
transmission input shaft then keeps spinning even when you fully depress the clutch pedal.
Since the input shaft is still spinning, trying to shift gears when into reverse or otherwise will
cause your transmission to grind.

This grinding may point to any number of problems with the pressure plate, throw-out bearing,
or release mechanism. On a mechanical release system, the cable may be broken, frozen,

21
overstretched, or in need of adjustment. On a hydraulic system, grinding may indicate problems
with the clutch master cylinder, which could include low fluid, air in the system, or the internal
cylinder mechanism that needs replacement. Also, examine the clutch pedal assembly. The
pedal may have too much free travel and will need adjustment.

Clutch Failure Symptom 9: Can’t Get Transmission into Gear

Clutch problems may also prevent you from getting into or out of reverse or third gear. A stuck
gear may indicate problems with the linkage adjustment, a linkage malfunction, or a warped or
damaged clutch plate. On a hydraulic system, failure to get into gear may indicate problems
with the master or slave cylinder or both. Usually, this is accompanied by a change in the way
the clutch pedal feels: spongy, loose, or not catching as before. On a mechanical system, you
may be having problems with the clutch disc or pressure plate, release lever, release bearing,
shift lever assembly, or control cable.

14. How to fix sticking clutch in your (Master and slave Cylinder)
Is your clutch sticking when you press it? Does it depress normally, but then stick to the
floor or rise up again more slowly than usual?

If your clutch pedal isn’t working correctly, it’s important to have it checked out. Even if your
pedal only sticks sometimes or is just slowing down, it could be a sign of a problem that needs a
quick repair.

Your clutch sticking or working slowly is an important warning sign. If you ignore it, you could
risk clutch failure or turn a small problem into a bigger one.

What Does a Clutch Do?

In order to shift gears, a clutch disengages the motor for the short time it takes to get the
speeds (rpm) to match exactly. Its key mechanism is a high-friction pressure plate that’s
normally pressed tightly against the flywheel to transmit the engine’s power. When engaged
the clutch’s pressure plate pulls slightly away, allowing the engine to run independently of the
transmission and tire speeds.

Why Is it Sticking?

Your clutch pedal connects to its operating system via a cable. If the cable becomes stretched,
then it loses some of the tension it needs to work. And if the cable breaks, then the clutch loses
its connection and may stay down and fail to rise at all.

22
Most vehicles now days use a hydraulic system similar to brakes and power steering. You may
need fluid in this system.

Alternatively, you may have a problem in your linkage or cylinder system.

What Should I Do For My Clutch Sticking?

With numerous moving parts, clutches need periodic service and maintenance to avoid big
problems and increase the lifespan of your vehicle. If your clutch is sticking, take it to a
professional right away!

Clutch Sticking Repairs

For some vehicles, sticking may mean a clutch cable repair or adjustment. Hydraulic issues may
mean replacing seals and gaskets or perhaps replacing the master and/or slave cylinders. Other
common repairs include resurfacing or replacing the flywheel.

For the best reliability and lifetime, it’s often best to replace all components together. A “clutch
job” typically includes includes replacing the pressure plate, disk, and bearings (release, pilot,
and/or throw-out bearings). In some cases it may be more economical to replace the entire
assembly even though that’s essentially a full-day job.

Clutch Maintenance

No need to wait until there is a problem!

It typically takes about an hour for a clutch adjustment and inspection. This includes checking
and topping off the hydraulic fluid level. You can check the service schedule for your make and
model to determine when this should be done.

Just like other automotive fluids, clutch hydraulic fluid should also be replaced at longer
scheduled service intervals.

Why Pac Auto?

We’ve been servicing San Diego for more than 25 years. Our ASE-certified technicians and
master mechanics work with the latest diagnostic equipment.

15. How to fix a car that won’t go into gear (Clutch Master)
23
 Sometimes drivers face an issue where a car fails to go into gear. Assuming that it’s not
often, people who face this situation immediately conclude that it is a transmission problem.
However, there can be reasons other than a malfunctioning transmission system. It is
recommended to take your car to a service centre to get the problem professionally diagnosed
and resolved.

Below you will find some major reasons why a car won’t shift gears that may help you
determine that it’s the time to take your car to an auto service centre.

5 REASONS WHY YOUR CAR WON’T GO INTO GEAR

Read on to acquire knowledge about why your car gear is not working properly and what needs
to be checked and fixed:

TRANSMISSION FLUID ISSUES

The main reason the car won’t go into gear is that the level of car transmission fluid in the
vehicle is lower or higher than the required limit. If the level is low despite regular
maintenance, there may be a leak. Whereas, excessive transmission fluid may result in trouble
shifting gears and gear slippage.

Transmission fluid, therefore, is important to ensure that the car’s moving parts are properly
lubricated for functioning.

Similarly, dirty or burnt transmission fluid is also a reason the car won’t go into gear properly.

HOW TO FIX THIS ISSUE

To fix this issue, check the fluid and if found dirty, change the car transmission fluid. You can
check the transmission oil by its colour, smell and consistency. The colour of the oil becomes
blackish and it will start smelling like a burnt fluid. This will indicate that the fluid should be
changed immediately.

16.Defective clutch Release (throw out)bearing noise. The textbook perfect

failure
A large number of malfunctions in commercial vehicles can be traced to the influence of
defective release bearing systems. These malfunctions also include “capital” failures such as
burnt-out clutches or poor separating characteristics. As a result, it is extremely important to
precisely check the release system. There are not many maintenance jobs where concentrating
on a few details can have such a big effect and save major costs. Our workshop tips will help
you spot defective release bearing systems by means of a visual inspection.

24
Defective release bearing systems cause various symptoms. Three examples should serve to
explain the types of damage that can result from a faulty release bearing system:

SACHS release system

Fault in the release bearing system – wear:

If the bearing points of the guide sleeve (shown in this picture), the release fork, or the release
shaft are worn, this compromises the clutch's ease of movement – the worst case scenario is a
total failure.

Fault in the release bearing system – eccentricity:

If, as a result of worn components, the release bearing is defective and no longer guided
precisely, this also causes an eccentric movement of the diaphragm spring. This, in turn, leads
to considerable abrasion in the contact line (pitch) of the pressure plate. The axial position of
the diaphragm spring is modified as a consequence and results in an insufficient frictional
connection, making the clutch slip.

17. How a manual transmission and clutch work

A car transmission is one of the most important components of a vehicle. It’s what
moves the power from the engine to the wheels.

There are a variety of car transmissions. Some are automatic, while manual transmissions in
stick-shift cars require the driver to complete extra steps for the vehicle to operate effectively.
Where is a transmission in a car located? Typically, a transmission is mounted onto the chassis
of a vehicle in the front.

If you’ve wondered about how a transmission works, the process varies depending on the type
of transmission. Whatever type of transmission it is, the answer to what does a transmission do
is to enable the gear ratio between the drive wheels and engine to adjust as the car slows down
and speeds up.

When a vehicle is stopped, the transmission disconnects the engine from the drive wheels so
that the engine can keep idling when the wheels aren’t in motion. Transmissions also enable
quick acceleration from a stop and enable the engine to run more slowly to cut down on wear
while the vehicle is driving at consistent speeds.

How Does a Manual Transmission Work?

25
Manual transmissions have a clutch pedal and a shifter the driver uses to manually change
gears. These types of transmissions consist of a set of gears along a pair of shafts, called the
input and output shafts.

How does a manual transmission work? With a manual transmission, the driver has to select
the proper gear and engage or disengage the clutch. The transmission uses a flywheel, pressure
plate and clutch to engage and disengage the engine from the transmission.

The flywheel and pressure plate are connected to the engine. The clutch is sandwiched
between them and is splined to the transmission input shaft. The term “push in the clutch”
means to release the pressure plate, which disengages the clutch from the engine. Every time
you make a shift, you have to push in the clutch first.

The following are various types of manual transmissions.

Dual-Clutch

This transmission uses two clutches, which can be wet or dry. One clutch operates the even
gears (2, 4 and 6). The other clutch operates the odd gears (1, 3, 5 and reverse). Dual-clutch
transmissions were common in older cars and are still found in modern race cars. With today’s
dual-clutch automated manual transmissions, sometimes called a double-clutch transmission or
a twin-clutch transmission, a computer controls the clutch engagement and shifting, bridging
the gap between a manual and automatic transmission.

Unsynchronized

The first manual transmissions were unsynchronized, or “non-synchro.” They were also called
rock crushers because drivers would grind the gears together trying to get them to mesh.
Trucks used this type of transmission well into the early 1960s because these transmissions
were very strong.

Synchronized/Constant Mesh

Synchronized/constant mesh transmissions keep the cluster gear, drive gear and mainshaft
gears constantly moving. These types of transmission use pads to slow down the gears. This
eliminates the need for double-clutching action.

Automated

An automated transmission, sometimes referred to as an AMT, is a manual transmission with a

computer controlling the shifting and clutch. The AMT is used in heavy-duty trucks.

Single-Clutch

26
Single-clutch is a manual transmission with the computer controlling the shifting and clutch.
Shifting and clutch control can be electric, hydraulic or electrohydraulic. The popularity of
single-clutch transmissions started to fade as dual-clutches were able to handle increased
torque.

Preselector

A preselector was a manual transmission with a vacuum or hydraulic shift control that was
mostly used in the 1930s through the early 1950s. Some preselectors used bands and planetary
gears. Basically, whatever forward gear was selected, the next time the clutch was engaged, it
shifted to that gear.

Automatic Transmissions

How does an automatic transmission work? The main automatic vs. manual transmission
difference is that with an automatic transmission, the process that powers a manual
transmission happens within the transmission itself. Automatic transmissions typically don’t use
clutches. Instead, the automatic transmission relies on a torque converter to change gears.

The first automatic transmission, which was more like a semi-automatic transmission because it
still had a clutch, has been around in some form since the early 1900s. The first true automatic
transmission used in a production car was the Hydro-Matic, in a 1939 Oldsmobile for the 1940
model year. The inventor was Earl Avery Thompson.

Most large SUVs and trucks have traditional automatic transmissions. Here are some terms
commonly associated with automatic transmissions.

Direct-shift gearbox: A direct-shift gearbox, also called a DSG, has two clutches that disengage
alternately in changing gears. DSGs provide smooth acceleration and fast shifting.

Tiptronic: A tiptronic gearbox allows an automatic transmission to be shifted manually, via the
shifter and/or the steering wheel controls. The drawback is the computer will override/not
allow manual mode if the transmission is outside the set parameters.

Hydraulic: Hydraulic is the pressure/fluid inside an automatic transmission.

What about electric cars? Single-gear systems are used in electric vehicles. The power band of
an electric motor enables engineers to use compact single-speed transmissions to transfer
power to the drive wheels. This can be integrated with the motor or be a bolt-on.

CVT Transmissions

27
Continuously variable transmissions, called CVTs, are pulley-based transmissions that are
primarily used in small vehicles with small engines. CVTs have been used for years in snow
machines, ATVs and side-by-sides, to name a few. They’re also more recently popular in hybrid
vehicles.

The basic set-up is a primary small drive and a secondary large driven clutch, with a belt or
chain to connect the two. The belt or chain will sit low in the primary drive and sit high in the
secondary drive at a stop.

As you accelerate, the primary drive will contract, causing the belt or chain to walk up, while at
the same time the secondary will expand, causing the belt or chain to walk down.

18.How to diagnose a clutch problem

Sudden failure is most often caused by a broken or loose clutch cable, linkable or a
failed hydraulic master/slave cylinder. There can also be leaks in the hydraulic line or even the
disc could be contaminated with something like dirt or debris.

Gradual failure is the more common situation where your car has things like a stretched clutch
cable, a bent linkage or that master/slave cylinder is failing. You may even have low hydraulic
fluid or a broken transmission mount. Some of these problems might come up when you go for
your Worthing MOTs but most don’t.

Signs of a failure

A sudden failure is an all or nothing situation but with gradual failures, there are signs that can
indicate a problem. You might notice that the clutch sticks, feels spongy, vibrates or the pedal
is loose. There may be squeaking or grumbling noises when you press the pedal, or you might
be able to rev the engine but have poor acceleration.

Trouble changing gear and a ‘slipping’ clutch that causes a momentary loss of acceleration are
also signs of a problem and warrants a trip to your specialist in car repairs in West Sussex. They
can use car diagnostics to ensure the problem is the clutch and check other key areas such as
brakes, tyres and even windscreens as well.

19. Before replacing your car’s clutch check the master/ slave cylinder could
save Big
28
 hanging the slave cylinder is also recommended when replacing the clutch or removing
the transmission. Replacing the clutch in isolation may lead to the need for further costly
repairs shortly afterwards.

SACHS offers free service information to download on this and other topics.

Find related technical information

Clutch kit

Dirt deposits on the outside of the CSC piston guide can compromise the sealing lip – if the
piston returns to its non-extended position, it will pass over the particles. CSC defects are also
often the result of assembly errors: The clutch pedal may not be actuated when removing the
clutch and transmission with a closed hydraulic circuit – if this occurs, the CSC piston will be
pushed too far over. This can damage the piston sealing lip, which causes a loss of hydraulic
fluid and leads to clutch defects. Manual compression of the CSC also often causes damage to
the seals, just as with the application of lubricants: These make the seals swell up and cause
CSC failures.

Replacing the clutch release bearing

Filling and venting

How to replace the slave cylinder? The CSC may only be filled and vented when it is assembled
in the installation position: This means, it must be installed in the clutch bell housing on the
transmission according to the instructions – at the same time the clutch and transmission
should be completely flange-mounted to the engine again beforehand. Hydraulic fluid should
only be filled as specified by the manufacturer. Bleeding is carried out with the equipment on
hand. Even under pressure, the system may only be implemented when the concentric slave
cylinder is in the installation position.

20. Clutch plate fault- When a rattle is clutch plate springs and not a gear box
fault
In most circumstances, when you start the vehicle, it will feel like the engine is revving
and the "rpm" will increase. As a result, it appears that the gear change will be excessively
drastic. As a result, the vehicle would not stall as it would on a typical day.

4. Pulsating Clutch Pedal

29
The clutch pedal may pulsate when the spinning components of the vehicle's gearbox vibrate
and wobble. Check the pressure plate if possible. Aside from that, the release lever may need to
be adjusted, or the wrapped flywheels may have some troubles.

5. Overheating

As you may have discovered from engine overheating, excessive heat is not good for vehicles.
The clutch system is no different, and this is one of the leading reasons of clutch failure. When
it overheats, the various components are subjected to a lot of wear and tear. In essence, if the
clutch system is overheating, the pressure plate should be checked. After being exposed, there
is a greater possibility that this portion may begin to wear down.

6. Clutch Release Noise

Have you ever wondered what makes that unpleasant sound when you release the clutch? It's
possible that a malfunctioning pressure plate is at blame. If the pressure plate is in terrible
shape, you will hear a creaking sound when you apply pressure to the clutch pedal. If this does
not appear to be the case, you should inspect the clutch system's spring arrangement.

7. Vibration in the Transmission System

If the car's pressure plate appears to be loose or uneven, the clutch system will begin to vibrate.
When you discover anything like this, it's a good idea to take your vehicle to a mechanic to get
the problem rectified.

21. How to replace a clutch in your car or truck (Full DIY Guide)
Generally, replacing a clutch can take anywhere between 2 to 6 hours.

If you book in for the job, we recommend you should put a whole day aside just in case. Like
with any other repair job, the length of time taken varies due to a number of factors. Namely, if
the part is harder to access and remove in certain vehicles.

The process of how to replace a clutch

Step 1

30
The first part of the process is the removal of the old clutch. Firstly, the positive cable that goes
into your battery (at the negative battery terminal) is unhooked. The front end of your vehicle is
raised, your engine stabilised and most or all of the engine mounts undone. The driveshaft is
then taken off and the clutch linkage disengaged so that the cables are all now disconnected.

Step 2

The mechanic will also disconnect the speedometer cable at this point and unfasten the starter
motor from the engine housing. A jack will normally be placed under the transmission to place
a level of pressure underneath it.

Step 3

All bolts on the transmission are removed to release the transmission from its mount. Slide the
transmission out of place to gain access to the clutch. The bolts around the pressure plate are
removed, then the plate and clutch disc are removed.

Step 4

At this stage the mechanic will check that there has been no leakage before installing a new
seal. The crankshaft flange is then cleaned, the flywheel inserted, and a torque is used to secure
its place and tighten the bolts. The clutch disc, pressure plate and the release bearing are
inserted back into the vehicle.

Step 5

Following that, the mechanic will move the transaxle into the correct place, along with ensuring
the shaft goes into the appropriate opening on the clutch disc.

Step 6

Lastly, all the bolts that have been removed must be reinstalled and a test is performed to
confirm that the new clutch is working properly.

22.5 tips for replacing a clutch

31
 The clutch transmits power from the engine to the gearbox, allowing you to change
gears by isolating the engine.

Clutch replacement is one of the great car repair mysteries. We know it costs a lot, we know it's
kind of inevitable over time, but most of us have no idea what's actually involved in a full clutch
replacement. So today, we're going to help you find out.

Firstly, it's important to know that the way you drive your car will have a big impact on how
quickly your clutch wears down. Anything that increases the load or weight on the clutch will
affect its overall condition. 'Riding the clutch' is one example of this that you're probably
familiar with.

23. Clutch TECH Dual clutch Transmission Clutch Assembly Removal and
installation Guide
A Dual Clutch Transmission is essentially an automated manual gearbox with two
gearboxes running within the one housing, each with their own clutch. One Clutch is designed
to operate odd numbered gears and the other is designed to operate even numbered gears.

When the vehicle is in use, one gear is selected at a time to drive the vehicle; however, the
other clutch already has a gear preloaded and ready to engage as soon as the gear is required.
This makes the gearbox extremely fast and also helps to make the transmission smoother than
just a standard automatic transmission.

There are two types of clutches that can be utilised in a dual clutch transmission, a dry and wet
clutch. The dry clutch uses no lubrication oil for the plates, whereas a wet clutch will use oil to
keep the system cool.

Dual Clutch Transmissions are being offered by many car manufacturers such as Audi,
Volkswagen, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Mercedes, Ferrari, Ford and BMW. This change in market
trends is due to the increased competition for faster and smoother transmissions as well as
increased efficiency.

ACS offer a variety of OE and Aftermarket Dual Clutch systems for various vehicles including the
necessary tooling for the installation of these clutches. Specialist training must be completed

32
before changing a clutch system in one of these transmissions, this can be arranged for
workshops looking to develop these skills.

24. Clutch Pedal free play

Most brake and clutch pedals should have just a little bit of free play, usually about a
centimeter, which is less than half an inch. If you feel that your free play is more generous than
this, or that you don't have any at all, you'll need to adjust your pedals.

There are two ways to test free play. With the car turned off, use one hand to move the pedal
up and down. You should be able to gauge if your play is too generous or too short. If not, take
a ruler and place one end against the floor and the other alongside the pedal. Lift the pedal to
the top of its range and note the measurement. Now, push the pedal just far enough for it to
make contact on the other side. This contact point is the point at which the pedal actually starts
to activate the braking system or the clutch, compared to the floppy up and down movement
you'll get in the area of the pedal—in other words, the free play. Subtract measurement two
from measurement one, and this is the amount of your free pushrod.

25. Clutch free play measured

Before you adjust the clutch pedal, you need to measure two values: the clutch pedal
free play and the clutch pedal travel. To measure these, use a ruler or tape measure, and have a
helper sit in the driver's seat and push the pedal lightly until they feel some resistance. This is
the clutch pedal free play. Then, have them push the pedal all the way down to the floor and
hold it there. This is the clutch pedal travel. Measure the distance from the top of the pedal to
the floor for both values to get an accurate reading.

Add your perspective

How to find the recommended clutch pedal free play and travel?

The recommended clutch pedal free play and travel vary depending on the make, model, and
year of your vehicle, as well as the type and size of your clutch. You can find these values in
your owner's manual, your service manual, or online sources. Alternatively, you can use some
general guidelines to estimate them. For example, a typical clutch pedal free play range is
between 0.5 and 1 inch, and a typical clutch pedal travel range is between 4 and 6 inches.
However, these are not exact values and may not suit your vehicle or your driving style.

33
Add your perspective

How to adjust the clutch pedal free play and travel?

To adjust the clutch pedal free play and travel, you need to locate and manipulate the clutch
pedal adjuster, which is a threaded rod or cable that connects the clutch pedal to the clutch
master cylinder. This adjuster is usually situated underneath the dashboard, close to the
firewall, and may require you to remove some panels or covers in order to access it. You will
also require a wrench or pliers to loosen or tighten the adjuster nut or locknut. To modify the
free play, loosen the adjuster nut or locknut and turn the adjuster rod or cable either clockwise
or counterclockwise until you reach the preferred free play. Turning clockwise will reduce free
play, while turning counterclockwise will increase it. You can measure with a ruler or tape
measure to ensure it is satisfactory. When done, tighten the adjuster nut or locknut to secure.
To adjust travel, loosen the adjuster nut or locknut and move the adjuster rod or cable either
up or down until you reach your desired travel. Moving up will reduce travel, while moving
down will increase it. Again, you can measure with a ruler or tape measure to ensure it is
satisfactory. When done, tighten the adjuster nut or locknut to secure.

26. Clutch Biting Point and Pedal Freeplay Adjustment

Many owner’s manuals list a free play spec as measured from the end of the clutch lever
to the grip, and it’s typically between 10 and 20 millimeters. I’m not a fan of that method,
however, because if you’ve installed aftermarket levers that are a different length, or you’ve
busted the ball off the end or otherwise “customized” your lever against the ground (as Zack
and I like to refer to it), then the factory spec is hard to apply.

Instead, I prefer to measure the gap between the back of the lever and the perch, which will be
consistent regardless of the lever length or style and should typically be between two and four
millimeters. Of course you can use a tape measure or ruler, but it just so happens that a nickel
is about two mm thick, so if you set the clearance using one or two of those, you’ll be good.

A service-manual illustration shows the manufacturer-recommended method for checking

clutch-lever free play. Suzuki image.

If the slack needs to be adjusted, loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster at the lever in to
increase slack or out to reduce slack, and make sure that when you snug it back down the
groove in the locknut and adjuster aren’t lined up. That’s so that the cable can’t jump out
accidentally, and I like to aim the groove toward the back of the bike (when possible) so water
and dirt are less likely to get in there.

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If you’re unable to get the right amount of slack using the barrel adjuster at the lever, or if the
adjuster is maxed out, you’ll need to move down to the secondary adjuster at the other end of
the cable. This assembly is used to make large-scale changes, so before you crack the lock nuts
free, spin the adjuster at the lever in most of the way to buy yourself more fine-tuning
adjustment down the road.

While it’s a good idea to maintain the factory slack figure, it’s okay to tweak the clearance to
make the clutch lever easier to reach or change the engagement point to where you want it. As
long as the clutch fully disengages when you pull the lever in and fully engages when it’s out,
then everything is working as it should.

Lubricating the clutch lever pivot on a motorcycle.

Clutch-feel problems can often be traced to a dry lever pivot or sticky control cable. Keep both
properly lubricated to ensure smooth operation. Photo by Spenser Robert.

While we’re talking about clutch function, don’t forget to grease the lever pivot and lube the
cable every so often to keep things moving smoothly. Take care of that, keep your cable
adjusted properly, avoid burnouts and drag racing, and your clutch will likely last for 20,000
miles or more.

27.Clutch master Cylinder Failure

If the clutch master cylinder fails entirely, you won’t be able to change gears at all. Even
if you’re at the point where it’s just difficult to shift, you don’t have as much control over the
vehicle, which can be dangerous—at this point it’s vital to see a mechanic.

What causes a clutch master cylinder to fail?

More often than not, a clutch master cylinder problem happens because the brake fluid is
leaking, which is why it’s important to regularly check the level in the reservoir and make sure it
sits at the full line. It’s a closed system, so it shouldn’t fluctuate. That said, you should have the
fluid replaced every 2-3 years as it does get old, and this isn’t part of a regular service.

If you do start to notice symptoms of failure, it’s best to bring it in as soon as possible for our
mechanics to check.

What to expect from a clutch master cylinder repair

If your clutch master cylinder needs replacing, it’ll probably take anywhere from an hour or so
to 3-4 hours depending on location and accessibility, meaning you shouldn’t be without your

35
car for more than a day. And sometimes it can just be a part that needs replacing, so you may
not need to replace the entire cylinder and the repair might not be too costly.

The important thing to remember with any car problems is the sooner you get them checked,
the more chance you have at protecting other components that would otherwise be damaged.

So, if you think your clutch master cylinder could use a little TLC, schedule an appointment with
your local mycar mechanic who’ll have you on the road in no time!

28. Clutch master repair

The clutch master cylinder or clutch pump is a component that allows us to manipulate
the clutch pedal correctly, always with less effort than we would need if this part were not
present in our vehicle.

Like other components of the clutch system, the clutch master cylinder can exhibit very
characteristic faults. It is therefore very important to be aware of all of them.

Depending on the vehicle model, repairing the clutch master cylinder is usually quite simple, as
well as inexpensive. On some car models all that is required is to purchase a new clutch master
cylinder kit, unscrew the clutch line, then remove the component retaining bracket, replace the
internal components and reassemble the clutch pump.

Here, we explain when it is necessary to repair the clutch pump of our vehicle or when to do
the clutch master cylinder replacement:

When the pedal is stuck

This first symptom occurs when the clutch pedal of our vehicle is depressed, the clutch pedal
goes down, but does not return to its initial position. If this happens, we cannot change gears,
so we will have to stop our car until we replace the clutch master cylinder with a new one.

Hardly any brake fluid

In the reservoir where the brake fluid is located, we can see some marks on the side that
indicate the amount we have in the reservoir. If the brake fluid is below the mark, it is
important to top it up. Depending on the vehicle model, one type of fluid or another will be
necessary.

36
But why does the brake fluid diminish? Over time, the clutch master cylinder or clutch pump
loses brake fluid due to a possible leak in the master or slave cylinder of the clutch system.

Gear shifting is too jerky

When the clutch master cylinder is damaged, but we can continue to drive, this may be due to
the fact that gear change is too abrupt during driving. As a result, the clutch may start to slip. It
is important to press the clutch pedal firmly and consciously, but not violently.

When the pedal is soft or spongy

If at any point in your driving you notice that the clutch pedal is lighter and easier to depress
than before, this is another symptom that indicates that the clutch pedal should be replaced.
This is because the clutch master cylinder has air in it, so the pedal starts to feel softer.

29. Brake and clutch Master

The brake master also has a larger bore than the clutch master. A clutch master will
never have a bore bigger than 5/8, but a brake master will start off with 1" and go up from
there. A swap to a dual set up would be safer if one end should fail you'll still have the other
with some form of brakes that will stop it. The clutch master cylinder structure consists of the
piston, cups, and springs, built within a

precision machined body. The primary cup, positioned on the leading side of the body,

functions to create hydraulic pressure when fluid is forced inside by the piston. Located on

the trailing side is the secondary cup, which guides the piston and prevents fluid from

leaking. When the clutch pedal is pressed, the primary cup is blocked away by the piston

from the oil spill port leading to the reservoir tank, pressure in the cylinder rises as the

fluid is fed through the pipeline. When the clutch pedal is released, the hydraulic pressure

and the force of the return spring pulls back the piston to relieve fluid back into the

reservoir. The clutch master cylinder is what provides the necessary force to control the

application of drivetrain power.

30. How to get bleed air out of a clutch master cylinder

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 Once you have all the tools handy, it is time to find the master and slave cylinder. Open
the hood and get to the driver’s side to fund the master cylinder. When you have located the
master cylinder suck out the old fluid and fill it with new fluid using the turkey baster. This is
helpful when you are performing routine maintenance.

When you are confused about which fluid to fill up, use your manual and get to know which
fluid is recommended.

Next, it is about locating the slave cylinder that you can find on the transmission. In most
vehicles, it can be found externally else check internally. Follow the hydraulic line from the
clutch master cylinder to locate the slave cylinder the easiest way.

brake fluid

Using brake fluid as recommended by the manufacturer (Photo Source: amazon)

Bleed the Slave Cylinder

In order to bleed the slave cylinder, you need to remove its valve using a line wrench. The rest
would be done by gravity. You should use a container or a pan under it to catch the fluid; let it
be open for two to three minutes.

Note: While bleeding the slave cylinder, keep an eye on the master cylinder. The fluid level in
the master cylinder should not go too low else, it will suck up the air. Tapping on the slave
cylinder will help you release any remaining air pockets.

Get to the slave cylinder and access the bleeder nipple. Close the bleeder valve and use the
aquarium tubing to the bleeder nipple. Place the end of this tubing in an empty bottle and top
off the master cylinder with brake fluid.

Now you need to pump the clutch pedal, and for this, you can take the help of a friend. Tell him
to pump the clutch pedal 10 to 15 times, and after that, tell them to hold the clutch pedal
completely down.

While the clutch pedal is still down, it is time to open the bleeder using the line wrench. This
would make the fluid exiting the slave cylinder. Close the bleeder valve when you see no more
air bubbles in the fluid; release the clutch pedal as well. You would need to have another
person as this operation can’t be done alone.

The Final Step

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Finally, it is time to test the clutch once the slave cylinder has been bled. Start your car and test
the clutch to verify its functioning. If you used the floor jack to raise the vehicle for the bleeding
process, you can lower the vehicle before testing the clutch.

Note: You should not release the clutch pedal while the bleeder is still open, else the air will
suck into the system.

If you feel the clutch getting stuck or any unusual behavior that was not there previously, it is
recommended to have a professional check. Also, if the pedal seems to be on the floor even
after you have released it, there is nothing to be worried about. Just tap it a few times, and it
should be working fine.

If the problem does not feel to be solved, let the mechanic determine what has gone wrong
with the clutch system and get it repaired. Though, in most cases, the mentioned steps do the
job, you can always rely on a certified mechanic else you can follow some maintenance tips by
the experts.

Bleeding the Clutch Using the Hand-Operated Vacuum Pump

If you are about to use a hand-operated vacuum pump for the bleeding process, then here are
the steps.

Get to the slave cylinder and by using the line wrench open the bleeder valve

When you do not have another person to do the job, and you have decided to use the vacuum
pump, attach the pump to the slave cylinder.

Use the vacuum pump and open the bladder to suck out the air bubbles from the slave cylinder.
Also, do keep an eye on the fluid level while sucking out the air.

When the air bubbles stop coming, you can close the bleeder valve.

At last, you can test the clutch as everything should be working now. If it doesn’t work, take
your car to a professional, as mentioned above.

31. Clutch pedal clearance

The correct clearance or play for the clutch pedal is approximately 3/4 inch. That is
when the clutch pedal is depressed there should be about 3/4 inch movement of the pedal
before it starts to disengage the clutch.

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As the clutch facings wear, this clearance or movement gradually grows less. Consequently it
should occasionally be checked. Under no circumstances should the car be driven without
clearance or play in the clutch pedal.

Adjusting Clutch Pedal Clearance

The adjustment is easily made by removing the steel pin, see “A,” Fig. 414, and turning the
release arm rod “B.” Screwing the rod in increases the clutch pedal movement. Screwing the
rod out decreases the movement. After making adjustment be sure to replace steel pin and
cotter key.

32. Clutch slave cylinder-How to replace and bleed purged air.

Many vehicles can develop release problems after a clutch change or replacement of the
hydraulic release system components; usually consisting of a clutch master cylinder, slave
cylinder and line. Conventional bleeding is usually done by opening the slave cylinder bleeder
valve and either gravity bleeding or pumping the clutch pedal while opening and closing the
slave bleeder valve.

Many vehicles can develop release problems after a clutch change or replacement of the
hydraulic release system components; usually consisting of a clutch master cylinder, slave
cylinder and line.

Conventional bleeding is usually done by opening the slave cylinder bleeder valve and either
gravity bleeding or pumping the clutch pedal while opening and closing the slave bleeder valve.

Many new slave cylinders do not have a bleeder valve and must be reverse bled by simply filling
the release system with hydraulic fluid and stroking the slave cylinder in and out several dozen
times (slave must be lower than the master). This will force trapped air up and out of the
vented master cylinder reservoir cap. Bleeder valve must be closed on slave cylinders that have
them.

Ford Explorer, Ranger and Aerostar can really be hard to bleed because of the mounting
position of the master cylinder. These applications respond very well to reverse bleeding if the
master is first removed from the fire wall and leveled.

An animated version of reverse bleeding is available at lukclutch.com that should clear up any
questions about reverse bleeding — especially those difficult Ford applications above.

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33. 8 Bad Slave Cylinder Symptoms, Causes and replacement cost
The clutch slave cylinder is the last component in the clutch hydraulic system. There are
a few possible locations for it, and it could be either inside or outside the transmission. In a
semi-hydraulic system, the slave cylinder is on the outside of the bell housing, releasing the
clutch plate via a release fork.

Typically, these systems mount the clutch slave cylinder with two bolts, making it pretty easy to
find, remove, and replace. However, in some systems, the clutch slave cylinder is inside the
transmission.

These systems require a bit more work to get to the clutch slave cylinder, as you’ll usually need
to remove the transmission to access the slave cylinder.

Slave Cylinder vs Master Cylinder

bad clutch master cylinder symptoms

Clutch master cylinder

While both the clutch slave cylinder and the clutch master cylinder are necessary to operate the
clutch, they are two completely different components that work hand-in-hand with each other
to hep your vehicle shift gears.

The master cylinder converts the mechanical pressure into hydraulic pressure to release the
clutch plate, while the slave cylinder provides the pressure to push the pressure plate back into
place when there’s no hydraulic pressure.

If either component starts to fail, you won’t be able to shift your vehicle properly, but they
actively work against each other to make it happen!

See Also: Brake Master Cylinder Replacement Cost

Bad Slave Cylinder Symptoms

While a slave cylinder isn’t a component you should need to replace all that often, if it’s starting
to fail, it will create some noticeable problems. If you notice any of the following symptoms, the
problem could definitely a faulty slave cylinder. The more symptoms you notice, the more likely
that’s the case.

#1 – Soft Clutch Pedal

clutch pedal vibrates

41
A soft clutch pedal is one of the most common signs of a faulty clutch slave cylinder. This makes
sense because if the cylinder starts to fail it won’t push back as hard to reengage the
transmission, and you’ll feel that in the clutch.

It’s also possible that you could feel a spongy or intermittent pressure on the clutch pedal
either when pressing or releasing the pedal.

See Also: What Does “Riding the Clutch” Mean?

#2 – Leaking/Low Fluid Level in Clutch Slave Cylinder

The clutch slave cylinder uses oil to keep everything well lubricated and moving the way it
should, and if the seals give out this fluid can leak out all over the place. If that happens it won’t
continue to work the way it should and you’ll need to replace it.

You might actively spot the leak, or you might notice that it’s low on oil. Since it’s a sealed
system, if it’s low on oil, there’s a leak somewhere and you need to replace it.

#3 – Difficulty Shifting Gears

hard to shift into gear

The clutch slave cylinder works in tandem with the master cylinder to help your vehicle shift
gears, so it makes sense that if either component starts to fail that you’ll start to have problems
when trying to shift gears.

Often with a faulty clutch slave cylinder, you’ll notice a problem when your vehicle is trying to
get into the next gear.

#4 – Contaminated Clutch Fluid

If your vehicle has dark or contaminated clutch fluid, there’s a problem with one of the seals
somewhere in the system.

The problem could be the seals around the clutch slave cylinder, or the problem could be with
the seals around the clutch master cylinder.

#5 – Squeaky Sound When Pressing the Clutch

riding clutch pedal

When you depress the clutch, everything should engage silently. If you’re starting to hear
grinding noises or a squeaking sound, it could mean a problem with the clutch slave cylinder.

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The slave cylinder can begin to make these noises if there’s a leak and it runs low on oil or if
components can no longer move the way they should without a little extra force.

#6 – Grinding Gears When Shifting

When the clutch slave cylinder is working the way it should, it provides enough pressure for the
transmission to quickly get into gear after you release the clutch pedal. The speed is important,
otherwise gears can start to grind and create more problems.

If you’re starting to hear grinding gears when you’re trying to shift, you’ll want to get to the
bottom of it right away because grinding gears can lead to more damage.

#7 – Clutch Pedal Sinks to the Floor

clutch pedal on floor

If the clutch slave cylinder isn’t working the way it should, it won’t reengage the clutch plate.
When this happens, nothing is pushing the clutch pedal back up into place, so you’ll often start
to see it sinking to the floor.

It depends on how quickly the clutch pedal will sink to the floor. Sometimes it will fall all at
once, while other times it will slowly fall to the floor.

See Also: How to Adjust a Clutch Pedal

#8 – Hard Clutch Pedal

While it’s more common to feel a soft clutch pedal than a hard one, it all depends on how the
clutch slave cylinder fails.

For instance, if the cylinder fails and stays stuck in the position where it’s pushing too hard to
keep the clutch plate depressed, you might struggle to disengage it. While this isn’t the most
likely way for the cylinder to fail, it can happen.

What Causes the Slave Cylinder to Fail?

Clutch slave cylinders don’t fail all that often, so if the one on your vehicle does fail, you’ll want
to figure out why. The most common reason a clutch slave cylinder fails is because of
contamination of the hydraulic fluid. Contaminated hydraulic fluid will cause the seals to fail,
and when that happens the clutch slave cylinder will leak.

Other potential causes of a clutch slave cylinder failure include foreign contaminants entering
the system and causing components to rust or fail in other ways. This can happen if the clutch
master cylinder has a faulty seal or if a hose allows contaminants into the system in other ways.

43
If the fluid stays clean and contaminants don’t enter the system, the clutch slave cylinder
usually won’t fail, even if it’s on an older vehicle!

Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement Cost

Best places to order parts? See: 19 Best Online Auto Parts Stores

clutch slave cylinder replacement cost

The cost to replace your vehicle’s clutch slave cylinder depends on whether the cylinder is
inside or outside the transmission. Most of the time they’re on the outside of the transmission,
and these are far less expensive to replace.

That’s because there’s usually only about an hour of labor with this job, compared to 8 to 16
hours of labor that goes into removing and reinstalling the bell housing.

But since most of the time, they’re on the outside of the bell housing you can usually expect to
spend between $200 and $250 for a professional mechanic to install a new clutch slave
cylinder. Of this cost, about $100 to $115 is for the part, and the rest is for the labor.

If your vehicle’s clutch slave cylinder is inside the transmission, you’ll need to multiply the
shop’s hourly rate by 8 or 16, then add $100 to $115 for the part.

Auto repair rates can vary quite a bit, typically in the range of $75-$150 per hour. So if you take
a shop that charges $100/hour, you’d be looking at somewhere between $900 to $1,700 to
replace a clutch slave cylinder that’s located inside the transmission.

34. Hydraulic operation of clutch Working principle of hydraulic clutch. What is

master cylinder
During disengagement, the clutch is in a state where the engine and transmission are
not interlocked. This separation is essential for facilitating smooth gear changes. The
disengagement sequence initiates when the driver depresses the clutch pedal.

The clutch pedal is directly linked to the master cylinder. This master cylinder's role is to
compress the fluid stored in its reservoir to high pressure through a piston mechanism.

High-pressure fluid from the master cylinder is transferred to the slave cylinder via the
hydraulic pipe.

The pressurised fluid in the slave cylinder pushes out the push piston rod contained within it.

44
The push piston rod actuates the clutch release fork, which is connected to the clutch shaft,
initiating movement.

The clutch release bearing is connected to the center of the diaphragm spring. The diaphragm
spring can contract and expand its surface against the pressure plate.

As the release fork pushes the release bearing, it causes the middle of the diaphragm spring to
pull the pressure plate away.

The pressure plate's movement results in the splined sleeves retracting and the pressure on the
clutch plate being released. This disengagement disrupts the frictional linkage between the
clutch plate and the flywheel.

The disruption of frictional contact halts the power flow since power transfer relies on friction.
This interruption permits the seamless changing of gears.

Know about types of gears.

Engagement:

Engagement signifies the state where power flows between the engine and transmission,
typically following a gear change when the driver releases the clutch pedal.

Releasing the clutch pedal initiates a release of pressure within the hydraulic cylinders.

The release of pressure allows the clutch fork, bearing, and diaphragm spring to return to their
original positions.

As the diaphragm spring moves back to its original position, the splined sleeves also return to
their original positions, bringing the pressure plate into contact with the clutch plate.

The pressure plate exerts pressure on the clutch plate, resulting in friction. This friction enables
both plates to rotate in unison with the flywheel at the same speed, allowing for power flow
between the engine and the transmission.

35. Hydraulic Clutch system ½ manual Transmission

The hydraulic clutch release systems are based on the same principle as hydraulic
brakes. The hydraulic system consists of a transmitter (clutch master cylinder) a hose and a
receiver. The clutch master cylinder is connected to a plastic or a metal tank filled with
hydraulic fluid. The tank is either common between the clutch and the brake master cylinders

45
or separate.The receiver, depending on the application, can be a clutch release cylinder (semi-
hydraulic system) or a concentric slave cylinder (full hydraulic system).

Why hydraulics?

The mechanical clutch release system consists of a release bearing that is operated by a fork.
The fork is attached to a clutch cable operated by the driver’s foot via the clutch pedal. Cars
have become lighter and more compact. Car manufacturers demand reduced pedal load linked
to comfort reason.

Hydraulic systems become mandatory in such cases as they also provide benefits compared to
the manual system, increasing efficiency of the actuation with less space required. For these
reasons, one vehicle out of two is equipped with a hydraulic system today.

Benefits of hydraulic technology:

more flexible and reliable compared to cable systems

enable an optimal and constant pedal effort

used material is much lighter -up to 70% reduction of weight compared to the standard clutch
system command - as well as much more compact.

The hydraulic systems benefits lead the car markers to implement that technology on OE
projects - one vehicle out of two is equipped with a hydraulic system today.

36. Hydraulic Clutch system 2 / 2 manual Transmission

Mechanical clutches (or cable-actuated clutches) use a cable to move the clutch disc.
They preceded hydraulic clutch systems and were commonly used on cars up until the 1990s.
Today, it’s very rare to see a car with a mechanical clutch, though they’re often used on
motorcycles.

How Does a Mechanical Clutch Work?

A mechanical clutch is a pretty simple system. A steel cable connects the clutch pedal directly to
the clutch assembly. Pressing (or actuating) the pedal moves the cable. This moves the clutch
fork, which actuates the clutch throwout bearing. This then disengages the clutch plate.

Diagram of Mechanical Clutch System

46
The lack of hydraulic assistance often makes a mechanical clutch’s pedal weight feel heavier.
Even those who grew up driving modern manual transmission cars may find that mechanical
clutch cars take some getting used to. The direct connection of a mechanical clutch means the
driver will typically feel more engagement when shifting.

WHAT IS A HYDRAULIC CLUTCH?

A hydraulic clutch uses hydraulic fluid instead of a cable to move the clutch disc. It relies on
reservoir cylinders to control pressure in relation to how the clutch pedal is depressed. Most
cars made from the ‘90s onward have hydraulic clutches.

How Does a Hydraulic Clutch Work?

A hydraulic clutch uses fluid to actuate a hydraulic piston. This fluid-filled tube looks sort of like
the hydraulics you’d see on a hood strut or screen door.

The piston then engages or disengages the clutch through a series of connections. The hydraulic
fluid is often called “clutch fluid.” However, it is actually the same as brake fluid. It’s stored in
the clutch master cylinder.

The clutch master cylinder converts the pressing of the clutch pedal into hydraulic pressure.
This power is then transferred to the clutch slave cylinder. A rod extends from the slave
cylinder, actuating the clutch fork. The clutch fork then moves the clutch release bearing. This,
in turn, releases the clutch pressure plate, disengaging the clutch.

Diagram of Hydraulic Clutch System

HYDRAULIC VS MECHANICAL CLUTCH COMPARISON

Before looking at the conversion process, let’s see how hydraulic and mechanical clutches
differ. The advantages of a modern hydraulic system make the switch worth it for some drivers.
Easier, smoother clutch pedal travel is a major benefit of upgrading to a hydraulic clutch.
Cruising can be more enjoyable when you don’t have to work a stiff, rougher-feeling clutch.

However, some purists favor keeping things original with the older cable-actuated
configuration. If you enjoy the vintage feel and old-fashioned engagement of a manual clutch,
it's best to leave it as-is.

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37. Understanding the Hydraulic clutch-Actuation system
The process takes place in reverse on releasing the pedal. With a hydraulic clutch
actuation system, so-called "Peak Torque Limiters (PTL)" prevent the occurrence of torque
peaks and excessively rapid clutch engagement. A frequency modulator ensures that the
vibration caused by the crankshaft does not affect the pedal.

DESIGN OF HYDRAULIC CLUTCH ACTUATOR

A hydraulic clutch actuation system consists of the following components:

Pedal

Clutch master cylinder

Clutch pipe

Clutch slave cylinder or CSC

Clutch master cylinder

In addition to their basic function, modern clutch master cylinders have to be designed for a
variety of extra tasks. The following functions must be implemented to enhance safety, comfort
and response:

Cruise control system

Starting lock

Electric parking brake

Torque adjustment

Automatic stop-start

These extra tasks have to be reconciled with the demand for a further reduction in both the
space required and the weight involved whilst guaranteeing quick and easy installation.

The clutch master cylinder is directly linked to the pedal. The piston inside it moves when force
is applied to the pedal. The piston translates the force exerted by the driver into a mechanical
command and passes it on to the clutch slave cylinder or CSC by way of the clutch pipe.

Clutch pipe

48
The clutch pipe links the pedal and the gearbox and so may also possibly transmit vibration.
Such interference must be eliminated in order to give the driver a reliable feeling for the correct
pressure point and to ensure comfortable operation of the pedal.

The clutch pipe is filled with hydraulic fluid. It conveys the pedal pressure exerted by the driver
and absorbed by the clutch master cylinder to a clutch slave cylinder or a CSC. These
components react to increasing pressure by disengaging the clutch and decreasing pressure by
engaging the clutch.

Clutch slave cylinder

Inevitable clutch wear must never affect reliable operation of the CSC or clutch slave cylinder
and compensation therefore has to be provided. The clutch slave cylinder must be of compact
lihtweight design whilst at the same time ensuring top performance and efficiency.

The clutch slave cylinder absorbs the pressure from the clutch pipe and transmits it to the
release lever. This is implemented by the hydraulic fluid moving a piston forwards or
backwards. The clutch is disengaged or engaged depending on the direction of motion.

The CSC performs the same task as the clutch slave cylinder by directly transmitting force to the
diaphragm spring tongues of the clutch.

Safety

Proper operation of the clutch actuation system is absolutely essential to be able to drive a
vehicle with manual gearbox. Total reliability and a long service life must therefore be
guaranteed. From the point of view of the driver, a reliable feeling for the correct pressure
point is crucial. The important factors for car manufacturers and their suppliers are a slim
design, quick and easy installation and the increasing use of resource-preserving and recyclable
materials.

38. Clutch Hydraulic Release System . Showing the difference between semi and
fully hydraulic

system.
Today, clutch components have to meet a multitude of requirements that have a
significant influence on the comfort behavior of the vehicle – whether soft starting, fast shifting,
more smooth running or less noise. Besides the clutch, the clutch actuation system plays a

49
decisive role in determining the driving experience. Because: The clutch must be easy to
operate so that the power flow can be safely metered or interrupted at any time.

From mechanical to hydraulic clutch actuation

Until the 80s, mechanical operation of clutches was standard. The pedal force generated by the
driver was transmitted from the clutch pedal to a lever mechanism in the clutch bell via a clutch
cable pull. The clutch was then operated via the lever and a release bearing. Today, the spread
of these systems is low due to inconvenient technology.

Semi- and fully hydraulic clutch systems

Today modern clutches are increasingly equipped with a hydraulic clutch actuation. A
distinction is made between two systems: Semi- and full hydraulics. In both systems a hydraulic
draw frame replaces the mechanical cable pull. It consists of a master cylinder on the pedal, a
line and a slave cylinder. Whereas in the semi-hydraulic system the clutch slave cylinder
absorbs the pressure coming from the clutch line and transfers it to the release lever, in the
fully hydraulic system this function is performed by a concentric slave cylinder. It is placed in
the gearbox bell, so that the hydraulic cylinder encloses the input shaft.

The release system is subject to wear

Concentric slave cylinders or slave cylinders are usually mounted in or on the clutch bell – this is
where heat, dust, abrasion, moisture or oil mist affect the components. In the course of time
and with increasing mileage, this leads to increased wear on the hydraulic system. In order to
avoid consequential damage and unnecessary complaints, it is therefore recommended to
replace central release or slave cylinder directly during clutch repair.

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