Complete CBLM
Complete CBLM
Complete CBLM
LEARNING MATERIAL
Sector:
GARMENTS
Qualification:
DRESSMAKING NC II
Unit of Competency:
DRAFT AND CUT PATTERN FOR
CASUAL APPAREL
TCLASS
DRESSMAKING NC II
Date Developed: Issued by:
January 2023 TCLASS
COMPETENCY BASED
LEARNING MATERIAL Develop By:
Page 1 of 183
Alicia A. Pangan
HOW TO USE THIS MODULE
In this module you will be requiring some assistance from your trainer (as
instructed in the learning materials.
To proceed with the learning session you just have guide go through the Learning
Activity Sheet where in you will follow series of learning instructions towards
attaining the learning outcome.
This module covers the knowledge, skills and attitudes required in drafting
and cutting basic/block patterns for ladies casual apparel.
The lesson deals with the client’s job requirements in accordance with standard
operating procedure such as the preparation of garment design. It also includes
selection of designs and fabrics and incorporation of special needs of clients in the
design based on procedure, take clients body measurements. Drafting and cutting
pattern for casual apparel .
DRESSMAKING NC II
Date Developed: Issued by:
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Dressmaking
List of Competencies
DRESSMAKING NC II
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MODULE CONTENT
MODULE DESCRIPTOR
This unit covers the outcomes required in drafting cutting basic/block patterns
for casual apparel. It included the requirements for Planning garment designs, taking
body measurement, drafting basic/block pattern cutting final pattern.
LEARNING OUTCOMES:
At the end of this module you MUST be able to:
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
DRESSMAKING NC II
Date Developed: Issued by:
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7. Body measurements of clients is taken in sequence according to
job requirements and standards of body measurements
8. Body measurements is recorded in line in the company
9. Drafting pattern tools are selected in accordance
with job requirements
10. Basic/Block pattern is drafted using appropriate tools and
customer’s .
specifications
11. Drafted basic/block is checked for accuracy against
customer’s specifications
12. Block pattern is laid out in accordance with company
procedures.
13. Block pattern is manipulated in accordance with customer’s
specifications.
14. Final pattern is labeled, filed and secured as per standard
operating procedure
15. Tools for cutting patterns are selected in accordance with job
requirements.
16. .Pattern is cut in accordance with customer’s specifications.
DRESSMAKING NC II
Date Developed: Issued by:
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LEARNING OUTCOME NO. 3
Draft basic /block pattern
Contents:
Assessment Criteria
Conditions
● Pencil
● Tailor’s Chalk
● Pattern Paper
● Pencil
● Triangle
DRESSMAKING NC II
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● Hip Curve
● French Curve
● Procedure Manual
Assessment Method:
1. Demonstration
2. Interview
3. Written
DRESSMAKING NC II
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Learning Experiences
Learning Outcome 1
Draft and Cut Pattern for casual apparel
DRESSMAKING NC II
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Information Sheet 1.3-1
Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
.
1. Drafting pattern tools are selected in accordance with job
requirements.
2. Basic/Block pattern is drafted using appropriate tools and
customer’s
Specifications.
3.Drafted basic/block is checked for accuracy against customer’s
specifications .
The lesson deals with the drafting tools, drafting basic/block pattern
and checking of pattern in accordance with the job requirements and
customer’s specification.
Basic pattern is the “starting point” for Flat-Pattern Designing. It is a
simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for freedom of
movement. The basic pattern has five pieces: bodice front, bodice back, skirt
front, skirt back and sleeve. The basic pattern is sometimes called a
master or foundation pattern. The drafted pattern is referred to
as the block.
Words to Study
DRESSMAKING NC II
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A perfect fit requires perfect measurements of the body, pattern and
fabric. Accurate measuring tools are essential for accurate pattern drafting. Do
you still remember your tools in dressmaking? This lesson will refresh your
knowledge on the use of measuring devices. The skillful use of these devices
will help take body measurements and drafting of patterns with accuracy and
speed.
A. L-Square
Divides the garment into the desired measurement It perfects
squares and is useful in making straight lines and numbers. It
can also function like a tape measure. It has two arms
connected perpendicularly.
1. The longer arm is twenty-four (24) inches long.
2. The shorter arm is fourteen (14) inches long
1. In front of the longer arm, there are six (6) different columns. The
numbers found in every column are equal.
2. The six (6) column parts are:
a. 1/24
DRESSMAKING NC II
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b. 1/12
c. 1/6
d. 1/3
e. 2/3
f. By inch or the 24 inches column
3. At the back are numbers made from 1 to 24 inches. At the corner
of the L-Square is an aluminum that holds the two arms in a 90
degree angle. Both ends of the L-Square are secured with metal
sheets.
1. Starting from the corner of the short one we can observe the
following:
a. 1/32
b. 1/16
c. 1/8
d. 1/4
In other L-Square the shorter arm has 16th, 8th, 4th, ½ and by the
inches.
2. The back part of the arm contains a four-inch measurement.
The two arms are secured with a curved metal sheet on the
inner portion
DRESSMAKING NC II
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Uses. This tool is used in connecting and shaping curve
points.
Characteristics. The front part of the curve has a measure
of inches. At the back is a measure of centimetres. It is marked
every five centimetres.
C. French Curve
This is used to shape the depth of the neck hole and arm
hole of the pattern
D. Ruler
Ruler aids in connecting lines. They are graduated in inches and
centimeter
DRESSMAKING NC II
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which are commonly made of either wood or plastic.
E.Yardstick
This is used for general marking and for measuring
fabric grainline when laying out the pattern. It should
be made of smooth, shellacked hardwood or metal.
DRESSMAKING NC II
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\\
E. Tape Measure
It has the flexibility required to take body
measurements. Select a 60” (150 cm) long tape with
metal tips, made of a material that will not stretch. It
should be reversible, with numbers and markings
printed on both sides.
Uses. It is used in
taking body
measurements.
Fiberglass tape is
commonly used by
professional
dressmakers.
Characteristics.
The front has the
measurement of
150 centimeters and 60”
on the other side.
DRESSMAKING NC II
Date Developed: Issued by:
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● Skirt marker
a. Uses. This is a useful tool for measuring hems heights accurately. It
provides much quicker method of marking hems than when a
yardstick is used.
b. Characteristics. It comes in various types – pin markers, chalk
markers, and combination pin-chalk markers. The pin marker gives
more accurate marking. Chalk marks tend to be thick and do not
come out of some fabrics.
F. See-Through T-Square
Is used to locate cross grains, alter patterns and
square off straight edges.
Uses. It is specially designed to locate cross grains, alter
patterns and square off straight edges.
Characteristics. It is usually made of wood
Seam gauge
c. Uses. This measuring tool helps make quick, accurate
measurements for hems, buttonholes, scallops and pleats.
d. Characteristics. It is a small, 6” (15 cm) metal or plastic ruler
with a sliding marker.
DRESSMAKING NC II
Date Developed: Issued by:
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DRESSMAKING NC II
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Drafting Materials/ Marking Tools
DRESSMAKING NC II
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Self -check
Multiple choice : Choose the letter of the correct answer and write it in your quiz
notebook.
DRESSMAKING NC II
Date Developed: Issued by:
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Information sheet 1.3-1
Answer key
1.b
2.a
3.d
4.a
5.a
DRESSMAKING NC II
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Information Sheet 1.3-2
Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
.
1. Followed Salient Measure in drafting pattern
2. Prepared Individual Measurements Chart.
3 .Drafted basic/block is checked for accuracy against customer’s
specifications .
Kinds of Pattern
DRESSMAKING NC II
Date Developed: Issued by:
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Drafting the Basic Pattern
A. Drafting Tools:
● Tape measure
● L-square
LET US REMEMBER
DRESSMAKING NC II
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Self -check
Multiple choice : Choose the letter of the correct answer and write it in your quiz
notebook.
DRESSMAKING NC II
Date Developed: Issued by:
January 2023 TCLASS
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Information sheet 1.3-1
Answer key
1.b
2.a
3.d
4.a
5.a
DRESSMAKING NC II
Date Developed: Issued by:
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Information Sheet 1.3-2
Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
.
1. Followed Salient Measure in drafting pattern
2. Prepared Individual Measurements Chart.
3 .Drafted basic/block is checked for accuracy against customer’s
specifications .
Kinds of Pattern
DRESSMAKING NC II
Date Developed: Issued by:
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5. Construction pattern – the intervening step between the block and the
final pattern. Designs are complicated, construction patterns are
sectioned.
6. Final pattern – provided with the necessary symbols that will guide
the cutter on how to lay out the pattern on the cloth. Symbols for darts,
seam allowances, grainline, center fold, and notches and other markers
are used
B. Drafting Tools:
● Tape measure
● L-square
● Hip curve
● French curve
● Transparent ruler
● Pencil
● Eraser
● Scissor
● sharpener
DRESSMAKING NC II
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C. Body Measurement Needed
Name: Date:
Girth measurements
(Horizontal measurements)
● Back figure
DRESSMAKING NC II
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D. Drafting the Back and Front Basic Pattern
DRESSMAKING NC II
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9B 19 8B 1
2
10B 22
21
3
20
4
11B
13B 8
12B
18B 5
14B
7
Back Bodice
● 1-8B ½ back neck or 2 ½ inches (6.5 cm) to 2.9 inches (7.5 cm).
Connect 8B to 2 with a French curve
● 1-9B = ½ shoulder + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Square down 9B
DRESSMAKING NC II
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● 8-12B = ¼ bust + 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 10B, 11B and 12B
with a French curve
● 8-13B = ½ bust point width
● 14B – 16B = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 16B-18B and 17B-18B.
● 14B - 17B = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 16B-18B and 17B-18B.
● 13B - 18B = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 16B-18B and 17B-18B.
● Connect 6 to 15B
● Fold 22 over 21
● Connect 8B to 10B
DRESSMAKING NC II
Date Developed: Issued by:
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Front Bodice
9B 19 8B
1
2 8F 9F
10B 22
21
10F
20 3
11B 4 11F
13B 8 12F
12B 13F
18B
B 5 22F
18F 19F
21F
20F
17B 16B 6
15B
16F 17F
15F
14B 7
45
14F
● 2-8F = ½ back neck or 6.5 to 7.5 cm
● 8 – 12F = ¼ bust + 1 inch (2.5 cm). Connect 10F, 11F, and 12F
with a French curve
● 5-13F = ½ bust point width
● 14F – 16F = ¾
14F – 17F = ¾ inch (2cm).
DRESSMAKING NC II
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● 13F – 18F =5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 16F-18F, 17F to 18F
● 13F – 22F = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 19F to 20F to 22F (side
dart)
● Fold 20F over 19F
● Connect 7F to 15F
● 12F – 15F with a dart closed = 12B – 15B of back bodice (side
length)
DRESSMAKING NC II
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13 10 12
7B 1
B B
1
2
3
6
11B
8B 4
9B 5
Back Skirt
● 1-7B = ¼ waist + 1.2 inches (3 cm)
DRESSMAKING NC II
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● 10B-13B = 5/8 inch (1.5 cm). Connect 12B and 13B to 11B
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9B 5 9F
14
DRESSMAKING NC II
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3
F.
DRESSMAKING NC II
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● 2-6 = ½ lower arm girth + 3/8 inch (1 cm)
● Connect 5 to 6 and 4 to 5
● 13 – center of 11 and 9
● Connect 10, 12, 13, and 5 for back sleeve cap line with a dotted
line
● Cut off in the dotted line for back sleeve pattern
● Open the sleeve and cut 5, 11, 8 to 10 for front sleeve pattern
Back Front
Sleeve Sleeve
DRESSMAKING NC II
Date Developed: Issued by:
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LET US REMEMBER
Multiple choice : Choose the letter of the correct answer and write it in your
quiz notebook.
1. Kinds of pattern made by drafting from the measurements which have been
carefully taken from an individual or from a model.
a. Block Pattern
b. Final Pattern
c. Commercial Pattern
d. All of the above
2. Kinds of pattern the intervening step between the block and the final pattern.
Design are complicated, construction patterns are sectioned.
a. Block Pattern
b. Final Pattern
c. Commercial pattern
d. Pattern Paper
3. In drafting foundation line of basic bodice 2- 5 measurement is?
a. Bust height
b. Bust
c. Bust point width
d. waist
4. In drafting foundation line of basic bodice the 2-7 measurement is?
a. Bust point height
b. Bust
c. Bust point width
d. Hips
5.In drafting the foundation line of basic skirt 1-2 is what measurement?
a. 1 cm
b. 2 cm
c. 3 cm
d. 4 cm
DRESSMAKING NC II
Date Developed: Issued by:
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Answer Key
Information sheet 1.3-2
1.a
2.c
3.a
4.c
5.a
DRESSMAKING NC II
Date Developed: Issued by:
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TASK SHEET 1.3-2
Title:
Drafting Basic/ Block Pattern
Performance Objective: Given the tools materials and devices, you should be able to
draft basic /block pattern(with your individual measurements)
draft them following safety standards and procedure.
Equipment :
Steps/Procedure:
1. Take body measurement accurately.
2. Prepare tools and materials in drafting Foundation Line of Pattern Drafting
3. Draft pattern based on the given measurements
4. Follow step by step procedure in drafting Foundation Line of pattern drafting
5. Connect lines by using the drafting tools.
6. Check lines and measurements of Foundation Line .
7. Check parts of pattern following the lines carefully.
Assessment Method:
Demonstration with oral questioning
DRESSMAKING NC II
Date Developed: Issued by:
January 2023 TCLASS
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Performance Criteria Checklist 1.3-2
CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you….
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Qualification:
DRESSMAKING NC II
Unit of Competency:
PREPARE AND CUT MATERIALS FOR
CASUAL APPAREL
TCLASS
Alicia Pangan
In this module you will be requiring some assistance from your trainer (as instructed in
the learning materials.
To proceed with the learning session you just have guide go through the Learning
Alicia Pangan
Activity Sheet where in you will follow series of learning instructions towards attaining the
learning outcome.
This module covers the knowledge, skills and attitudes required in preparing and cut
materials for ladies casual apparel.
The lesson deals with the client’s job requirements in accordance with standard operating
procedure such as the preparation of fabric before cutting. It also includes lay outing and
marking fabrics ,procedure in pressing and incorporation of special needs of clients in the
design based on procedure
List of Competencies
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Draft and cut pattern of Drafting and cutting pattern GRM743301
1.
casual apparel of casual apparel
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CERTIFICATE LEVEL
PREREQUISITE
:
:
NC II
LEARNING OUTCOMES:
LO 3. Cut materials
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
CONTENTS:
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● Preparation of the fabric before cutting
● Cutting table
● Procedure Manual
● Pins
● Pattern Paper
● Tailor’s chalk
● Basin
● Fabric
● Tape measure
● Marking tools
● Cutting toos
METHODOLOGY :
● Self-paced/Modular
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● Group Discussion
ASSESSMENT METHOD :
● Demonstration
● Interview
● Written
Learning Outcome 3
Fabric
Cutting equipment
Read information sheet 2.3-2 on preparation of fa
fabric before cutting
Cutting tools
Answer self check 2.3-2
Compare answer with answer key Follow Step and Procedure in pattern lay
out ,pinning ,marking and cutting
Read information
Sheet 2.3-2 on pattern lay out and marking
Complete your task as per Standard
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operation procedure (SOPs) and
Answer self check 2.3-2
company timeframe
Compare answer with answer key
Trainers evaluate your output as per
Perform task sheet 2.3-2 required CBT Standards is attained.
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Common Faults Found in Fabrics
✔ Yarn flaws - broken, missing, uneven, uncut wales
✔ Tears or cuts
Choosing Fabric
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sew with.
● Cotton Lawn
● Cotton Poplin
● Denim
● Gingham
● Linen
● Wool Tartan
● Worsted Wool
● Woven Wool
Knitted Fabrics
● Natural wool ● Double Knit
It is constructed with ● Cotton ● Interlock knit
loops rather than warp
and weft threads being ● Various blends ● Spandex
woven together.
● Sweatsuit Fabric
● Tricot
Special Fabrics
● Wool ● Boucle
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Special occasion wear. ● Silk ● Chiffon
Makes use of the most
luxurious and ● Taffeta
expensive fabrics
constructed in a ● Velvet
variety of ways. ● Threads of silk,
cotton or ● Lace
synthetic fiber
● Satin
● Nylon
● Tulle
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B.Straightening the end of fabrics
This process is to draw the thread or grain of the material of the uneven
crosswise or lengthwise edges to make it straight.
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lengthwise grain. Pressing may enlarge or shrink the fabrics.
Fabric is stronger, long lasting and drapes well when cut in lengthwise fold. It
should be grain perfect before cutting, shrinking and pressing to come up with a
perfect cut and fit.
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5 – 10 Woven Fabrics
● Calico
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● Chino
● Cotton
● Denim
● Linen
● Pressing
Before laying out the patterns be sure that you fold the fabric on its wrong
side.
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1. Prints are more visible and bright on the right side.
2. Right side has smooth and finished appearance.
3. Right side selvage is smoother than the wrong side.
4. Wrong side has loose thread ends.
5. Whole, silk and most nylons are folded or rolled with their right side in.
● Fabric Folds
1. Lengthwise centerfold
The fabric is folded lengthwise at the center with the selvage together.
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The hints in folding are the following:
● Pattern Layout
5. Fold the material on the right side with selvage folded together.
6. Lay out the largest pattern piece first on the wrong side of the
material.
7. Pin pattern piece in all the way around the edge.
8. Insert pins along the lengthwise grain.
9. Lay the small pattern pieces and pin them in vacant places.
10. Let the seam allowances touch each other whenever possible.
Mark the stitching lines before cutting.
Date Developed:
April 28,2014 Issued by:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC II March 10, 2020
PGT TCLASS Page 63 of 183
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PANGAN Revision # 01
Information Sheet 2.3-2
● Pinning
Pins used in dressmaking are made of steel or brass with a tin
coating.
Date Developed:
April 28,2014 Issued by:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC II March 10, 2020
PGT TCLASS Page 64 of 183
Developed by:
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PANGAN Revision # 01
Date Developed:
April 28,2014 Issued by:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC II March 10, 2020
PGT TCLASS Page 65 of 183
Developed by:
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PANGAN Revision # 01
● Pinning Pattern to the Cloth:
1. Be sure the pattern piece is placed on the straight grain by measuring the
grain from the fabric’s edge.
2. After measuring the grain line, smooth the tissue and place pins
diagonally towards the corners of the pattern.
3. Then place pins where necessary to keep the pattern pieces flat for
cutting.
Date Developed:
April 28,2014 Issued by:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC II March 10, 2020
PGT TCLASS Page 66 of 183
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
PANGAN Revision # 01
● Marking
In doing this marking details, we have to learn the various marking tolls
needed.
What to mark? All details should be marked; however, these are not
shown by notches or clips when long straight edges are left unmarked
stitching guide is used to keep seams even.
Construction details to be marked:
▪ Seam lines
▪ Fold lines
▪ Slash line
Date Developed:
April 28,2014 Issued by:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC II March 10, 2020
PGT TCLASS Page 67 of 183
Developed by:
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PANGAN Revision # 01
1. Tailor’s chalk
2. Wax chalk
removed by pressing.
3. Dressmaker’s pencil
4. Tracing wheel
pattern markings to the wrong side of the fabric. This is used with the
5. Dressmaker’s
carbon paper
paper is available in a
number of colors including white, red,and blue. It is used in marking all types
of fabric in combination with a tracing wheel. This work is best on plane, flat-
surfaced fabrics.
Date Developed:
April 28,2014 Issued by:
Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC II March 10, 2020
PGT TCLASS Page 68 of 183
Developed by:
ALICIA A.
PANGAN Revision # 01
This is felt-tip liquid marking pen. Marks may disappear after 48 hours,
Place the garment and the pattern piece on top of the tracing
1.
paper.
Mark straight lines using the tracing wheel. Get over lines only
2.
once.
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Marking darts and pocket location
●
For a good fitting, darts may be used in ladies blouse and skirts. Dart is a fold
in the fabric stitch wider at one end and tapering to the other end. It is used to
Mark the stitching lines and the line through the center
1.
known as fold line.
Mark a line at right angle to the point of the dart. Mark the
2.
centerline before marking the two side lines to prevent the pattern
from shifting.
How to mark
pocket location:
Mark
1.
pocket
location on
the wrong
side of the
fabric.
Transfer the markings to the right side by basting along the line
2.
by hand or machine.
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This marking must be shown at the right side of the fabric where
3.
the pocket is to be attached.
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ANSWER KEY 2.3-2
1. YES
2. YES
3. N0
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4. YES
5. NO
6. YES
7. YES
8. YES
9. YES
YES
10.
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Information Sheet 2.3-3
CUT MATERIALS
Learning Objectives After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
determine and study the different cutting tools, proper ways of using them
and following the set of standards for the accurate cutting of fabrics and
check the garment parts after cutting.
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Sharp cutting tools make clean cuts and well-defined notches. Furthermore,
and they do not damage fabric. On the other hand, dull tools slow the
cutting process, and make your hand and wrist tire easily. Sewing cutting
tools should not be used for other household task. Cutting tools must be
sharpened regularly and the joints are oiled occasionally for better use.
1. Bent-handled
dressmaker’s shears
These are made of quality steel and hold a sharp cutting edge. The blades
move easily and cut smoothly along the entire length and the points should
come together. Shears have the length of 7- 12 inches and are satisfactory
for most apparel fabrics.
2. Cutting scissors
a. Trimming scissor
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It is 3-4 inches long. It is used for trimmings, clipping threads and snipping
slashes.
b. Embroidery scissor
It has 4-5 inches finely tapered
blades. Both points are sharp for
use in working with fine details in
delicate fabrics and in embroidery
work.
c. Buttonhole scissor
This is intended for making buttonholes.
.Seam ripper
Hook quickly rips seams, opens
buttonholes and removes stitches. This
should be used carefully to avoid
piercing the fabric.
3. Thread clipper
It has spring action blades
which are used for snipping
threads.
4. Rotary cutter
It is an adaptation of the giant rotary
cutter used by the garment industry. It
works like a pizza cutter and can be
used by left or right-handed sewers.
The rotary cutter is available in
different sizes with different blades.
When using a rotary cutter, work on a
cutting mat to protect the blade and
the cutting surface.
5. Pinking shears /
scalloping
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shears
This is popular in zigzagging or
scalloped edge or for seam
finishes. This is used to finish
seams and raw edges or many
types of fabric. It cuts a ravel-
resistant edge. This is not
satisfactory for straight cutting.
6. Leather shears
These are used for cutting leather and suede. It has heavy serrated edge.
7. Stitch ripper
This is smaller than seam ripper, and it can cut stitches close to the fabric.
8. Electric shear
This is available in one- or-two-speed models. Some are battery
operated, while the others maybe plugged into an electric outlet for
operation.
CUTTING
also contributes to the final success of the garment. To avoid mistakes cut all
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Be sure to have an exclusive table for cutting in a suitable place. Get
1. Have everything handy. Gather all the equipment needed for the
cutting process.
2. Use a pair of sharp cutting shears with long even strokes.
3. Place one hand on the pattern close to the cutting line and hold before
cutting the fabric.
4. To cut out the piece, rest the cutting shear on the table so that the
fabric is slightly raised.
5. Cut first the large pieces, then the small ones.
6. Cut notches away from seam allowance. Notches help to match
sections during construction.
7. As you cut, walk around the table instead of pulling the materials.
8. Do not allow any parts of fabric to hang over the edge of a cutting
table. This is especially important in knitted fabrics.
9. Cut the entire garment at one time.
10.After cutting each part, put it aside. Do not remove the pins and
pattern, for you will need them in marking the fabric.
11.Collect and tie all scraps of cloth together for future use.
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Notes: When cutting, always start at the lower end of cloth or at your left
Regarding the sleeves, the ways may vary, depending on the style. You may
SELF CHECK
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Read and understand the items being described below. Choose the letter of
the correct answer and write it in your quiz notebook.
1. When cutting the material, this is how notches should be cut from the
seam allowance.
a. downward
b. outward
c. sideward
d. upward
2. This is used when cutting the cloth in order to get clean and evenly cut
edges.
a. blade
b. cutting shears
c. embroidery scissors
d. pinking shears
3. It is a grain of fabric that runs along the selvage.
a. bias
b. crosswise
c. lengthwise
d. twirls
4. It is a cutting tool that gives an attractive zigzag edge to fabrics that do
not ravel.
a. baguio cut
b. pinking shears
c. shears
d. scissors
5. This is a characteristics of a lengthwise grain.
a. it has less stretch
b. it is stronger
c. the selvage is there
d. all of these
6. This type of scissors is only useful in working with fine details of delicate
fabrics.
a. buttonhole
b. embroidery
c. pinking
d. trimming
7. This is a term used in arranging the pattern pieces on the fabric.
a. to cut
b. to lay out
c. to mark
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d. to trace
8. It is the direction in which the thread of a fabric runs.
a. facing
b. grain
c. hem
d. interlining
9. This is how pattern pieces are arranged economically during lay out.
a. along the centerfold
b. along the selvage
c. apart
d. close to each other
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ANSWER KEY
1 B
2 B
3 C
4 B
5 D
6 D
7 B
8 D
9 B
10 D
11 D
12 D
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COMPETENCY-BASED
LEARNING MATERIAL
Sector:
GARMENTS
Qualification:
TAILORING NC II
Unit of Competency:
DRAFT AND CUT PATTERN
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HOW TO USE THIS COMPETENCY BASED LEARNING MATERIALS
WELCOME:
Which comprises the knowledge, skills and attitudes required for a TVET?
trainer to possess.
The module, SEW CASUAL APPAREL, contains training materials and activities
related to identifying learners requirements, preparing session plan preparing section basic
instructional materials and organizing learning and teaching activities for you to complete.
In this module, you are required to go through a series of learning activities in order to
complete each learning outcome. In each learning outcome are Information sheet, Self-
checks, Task sheet and Job sheet. Follow and perform the activities on your own. If you
have questions, do not hesitate to ask for assistance from your trainers.
REMEMBER TO:
● Read information sheet and complete the self-check. Suggested references are
included to supplement the materials provided in this module.
● Perform the Task sheets, Job sheets until you are confident that your output
conforms to the Performance Criteria Checklist that follow the sheets.
● Submit outputs of the Task Sheet and Job Sheet to your trainer for evaluation
and recording in the ACCOMPLISHMENT CHART. Outputs shall serve as your
portfolio during the Institutional Competency Evaluation. When you feel
confident that you have sufficient practice, ask you trainer to evaluate you. The
results of your assessment will be recorded in your Progress Chart and
Accomplishment Chart.
You must pass the Institutional Competency Evaluation for this Competency before
moving to another competency.
You need to complete this module before you can perform the module on SEW
CASUAL APPAREL
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DRESSMAKING NC-II
List of Competencies
GRM743303
3. Sew Casual apparel Sewing casual apparel
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MODULE CONTENT
LEARNING OUTCOMES:
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
1. Actual Performance
2. Oral questioning
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LEARNING OUTCOME NO. 3
Sew and Assemble Garment
Contents:
Assessment Criteria
Conditions
1. Training Centers,
2. Tools, Accessories and Supplies
Sewing Equipment
Assessment Method:
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7. Trainers Evaluation
Sew and Assemble Garment Parts
Fabric
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Evaluate performance using performance
criteria
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Information Sheet 3.3-1
Procedure in Assembling Garments
Learning Objectives:
This part of the course introduces the students to the skills. Required for converting
fabrics into a sewn garment. It is a very important skill that gives hands-on experience in
garment assembly.
Sewing is a creative and interesting skill. The knowledge of sewing give a confident
feeling when it is applied to the construction ofgarments. The earlier method of
sewing by hand is not applicable for allstages of garment making. Therefore,
considerable emphasis is given to machine sewing. There are several machines in
the market today, eachwith its own desirable features and advantages. Sewing
machines rangefrom most basic having only simple lock stitch to the electronic
machinesthat use advanced computer technology having various functions
forexample piping, binding, ruffling, pleating, darning, hemming and evenmaking
buttonholes and attaching fasteners.
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The neckline is the top edge of a garment that surrounds the neck.
Collar (clothing), the part of a garment that fastens around or frames the neck.
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• Set-in sleeve styles
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Some basic skirt styles are:
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Self- Check 3.3-1
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ANSWER KEY 3.3-1
1–4
● Collar
● Sleeve
● Skirt
● Neckline.
5–9
● Round
● Square
● v shape
● off shoulder
10 – 12
● buttons down
● turtle neck
● crew neck
13 – 15
● pleated
● a line
● wrap
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SEW ASSEMBLE GARMENTS PART
This module deals with the advantages of the unit method of construction, sewing and
assembling garment parts of blouse and skirt, as well as the types and steps in sewing seam
finishes, collars, sleeves, zippers and pockets.
All stitches straight and even, seam edges finished to prevent raveling, the fabric cut with the
grain, plaids, stripes, and large designs matched at the seams, points of strain reinforced,
interfacings used for proper shape, buttonholes appear sturdy and free of raveling.
The buttons and accessories suitable for garment are properly selected. The seam
allowances and hems wide enough for future adjustments. The hemming stitches
inconspicuous on the right side of the garments.
If you need help making these shapes, I recommend using a T-shirt you like
and adjusting the measurements to match the drawings below.
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It is always good to find ways and means in which we can do things easier and faster.
Remember, time is a very precious resource and it should be used fully and creatively. If you follow
these easy sewing techniques, you will not only finish your sewing projects on time, but you also
become more systematic and more organized. So, let’s get started. Go over these techniques and
make sure you apply them when you sew your blouse and skirt.
When sewing the vertical seams, start from the bottom to the top, sewing with the grain of
the fabric and using finger pinning. It’s a faster and a more economical method. Just follow the
procedure.
1. Match the seam edges together. Position the fabric under the presser foot and lock stitch
(sew 2 or 3 stitches with the stitch length set at 0). Start sewing from bottom to top.
2. Match the raw edges at the top end of the seam; hold the fabric together with your right
hand and pull the fabric taut. At the center of the seam, pinch the raw edges together with
your left hand and transfer to your right hand without letting go of the ends you already
pinched. From the center of the seam to the bottom (placed under the presser foot), match
raw edges and pinch together at 6-8” intervals always transferring the fabric to your right
hand.
A. Sewing a blouse
blouse.
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a. Stay-stitch neckline, shoulder, armhole and sides of the
blouse.
b. Sew darts.
4. Prepare collar.
B. Sewing a Skirt
8. Hem skirt.
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9. Press skirt.
There are seven main processes in the construction of a blouse. These are:
● Stay-stitching
● Sewing of darts
● Setting in sleeves
When sewing the blouse, follow in detail the directions in the unit method of construction
and study the different construction processes described in this module to serve as your guide.
1. Stay-stitching
Edges that are curved, like the neckline and the armholes, should not be stretched because
they might get out of shape.
Stitch with the grain, using average length of stitch 1 centimeter from the edge of
the blouse. These are done on necklines, shoulder lines, waist, armholes, hipline and the
sides.
2. Directional Stitching
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Seams that are joined together should follow the correct directional stitching. These are
done following the grain of the cloth so that the fabric will not stretch and ravel.
3. Darts
Darts are the stitched folds on the material; they taper at one end. They are used for
controlling fullness in order to fit the curved areas of the body. These darts are ordinarily used at the
side seams and waistline to control fullness of the bust, and at the waistline to control fullness over
the hips. Darts should be sewn before seams are joined together.
a. Mark a line across the point of the darts so that these will be of the same length.
b. Fold the fabric on the wrong side, on the center line of the dart. Mark stitching line
with pins.
c. Stitch darts, starting from the wide portion up to the pointed end. Tie or back stitch
to secure the threads.
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d. Detach the pins and press. Underarm darts should be pressed downwards, the waist
and shoulder darts towards the center.
4. Seams
Seams are used to attach two separate parts of the garment. The edges of the seams should
not be finished so that they will not ravel. Seams should be strong, flat, and inconspicuous. They
should have uniform width. They are usually made on the wrong side of the dress.
Seam edges are finished by using one of the following seam finishes:
a. Pinked finish . Use pinking shears on the seam’s edges. This gives a neat finish but it
should be used only on firm, closely woven fabrics which are not transparent.
b. Overcast finish. This is used on fabrics that ravel easily and where a flat finish is needed.
When making an overcast edge, trim the edges neatly and beautifully and make
overcastting stitches from right to left. Make slanting stitches on the edge of the seam 1
cm apart and 1 cm deep.
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c. Edge turned and stitched seam. This is a heavier finish than overcastting and pinking
seam finishes. This finish is suitable for lightweight fabrics. To make this finish, trim the
seams and turn under raw edges. Machine stitch or make running stitches on the edges.
d. Blanket stitch finish. This can be used instead of overcastting. The blanket stitch finish is
more attractive and more suitable to loosely woven fabrics.
In pinning the shoulder seams together, sometimes the back seam is bigger than the front
seam. This is necessary so that the extra width would fit over the curve of the shoulder. The neck
and armhole edges should be matched at the seam line. After pinning the edges, ease the back seam
to the front seam. Put pins on the center portion of the seam. Sew on the seamline and finish edge
with the appropriate seam finish.
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6. Interfacing
Interfacing is used on cuffs, collars, facings, and others in order to add body to these
portions. It makes collars stand up beautifully. Interfacing placed on the openings, strengthens
buttonholes. These interfacings are pinned on the wrong side of the garment and basted in place
near the seamline.
a. Interfacing for front facing extension – The interfacing is cut exactly like the front facing
extension. Cut the seam allowances of the interfacing and baste it on the extension.
Fold the seam allowances of the shoulder and the long raw edges of the front facing
extension under and stitch close to the fold.
b. Interfacing for collars – Interfacing is placed on collars to give them body. Use the collar
pattern in making it. Place the interfacing on the wrong side of the under collar and
baste. Trim the seam allowances of the interfacing. Cut the corners of the interfacing of
pointed collars in order to lessen bulk. Stitch the facing to the under collar.
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7. Preparing the Collar
Kinds of Collars
The four basic collar styles from which all others are adapted are peter pan,
mandarin, convertible, and shawl collars. The techniques used to attach collars vary with the
style and the weight of the fabric. Most collars are completed before being attached to the
garment. An exception to this is the shawl collar.
o Points, curves, and notches are exactly alike on both left and right sides of the garment.
o The ends of the collar do not extend beyond the center front or back unless specified
otherwise by the pattern.
o The collar lies smoothly with none of the under collar showing on the right side.
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c. To keep the under collar from showing on the finished garment, spread the collar open and
under stitch the under collar to the seam allowances as close to the seam line as possible. If
the outside edge of the collar is curved, the under stitching may be done the entire length of
the seam. If the collar has sharp points, under stitching cannot be continued all the way to
the corners.
d. If the collar has points, work them out to the tip by taking a small hand stitch in the point
and gently pulling both ends of the thread. Lift the corner into position (Figure 2). Pull the
seam slightly to the underside and press.
Note: On some fabrics the seam allowance around the outer edge of the curved collar may need to
be notched to avoid overlapping. This technique requires skill.
Figure 2
This collar may be joined to the neck edge with a bias facing. The collar will conceal the stitching on
the bias facing (Figure 3).
Figure 3
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To attach the Peter Pan collar:
a. Pin the completed collar to the right side of the garment, matching the center front, center
back, shoulder markings, and notches. The ends of the collar should follow the center line
above and below the neck seam line (Figure. 4)
Figure 4
d. Place a strip of bias over the collar, extending the bias about 1 inch beyond the facing edge
(Figure 5).
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Figure 5
e. Stitch on the seam line from the fold edge of one front facing around the neck to the
corresponding fold edge of the other facing.
f. Grade or trim the seam allowances to ¼ inch. Trim corners diagonally and clip the neckline
seam allowances. Trim out excess thickness at the shoulder seams.
g. Turn under the seam allowance on the outer edge of the bias. Turn the facing to the wrong
side of the bodice and press flat against the bodice.
h. Hem the bias facing edge to the bodice by hand or by machine.
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Mandarin Collar
The mandarin collar (Figure 6) is attached to the neck edge with a fitted facing so that no
stitching will show around the neck edge. The collar may be straight and have a fold at the top edge,
or it may be curved with a seam at the top edge. A slightly curved collar will fit more closely
around the neck than the straight collar.
Figure 6
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h. Turn the facing to the wrong side of the garment; work the seams and points to the edge,
and press.
i. Secure the fitted facing to the garment at the shoulder seams.
j.
Convertible Collar
The convertible or rolled collar (Figure 7) is versatile in that it may be worn open or closed.
In either position, the collar rolls up against the neck; therefore, no stitching should show on the
right side
Figure 7
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Figure 8
f. Pin the upper collar in place, with the ends of the collar following the center line marking
above and below the neckline seam. The ends of the collar from the point to the neckline
seam should be exactly the same length.
g. Fold the facing over the collar and garment, right sides together, and pin a place (Figure 9).
Figure 9
h. With the garment right side up, machine stitch on the seam line from the fold edge of the
front to the shoulder seam. Fasten threads. Repeat on the right bodice front.
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i. Trim and grade the front neckline seam allowances to ¼ inch and clip to the stay line. Trim
excess bulk from corners and seams in the front neckline.
j. Turn the front facing right side out. Work the tip of the front opening to the seam line and
press.
k. Clip the seam allowances to the seam line at the shoulder seam. Turn the seam allowances
into the collar across the back neckline (Figure 10).
Figure 10
l. Turn upper collar seam allowance under across the back of the neck. To keep the under
collar from showing, the seam allowance of the upper collar have to be decreased before
stitching it in place. Attach the facing to the garment along the shoulder seam.
Tie Collar
The tie collar (Figure 11) is made of a strip of bias or straight grain fabric long enough to tie
in a bow of the desired size.
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Figure 11
a. Turn the front facing back over the bodice, right sides together and machine stitch from the
front fold to the point indicated on the pattern, usually ¾to 1 inch from the center front (A in
Figure 12). Fasten threads securely.
b. Grade the seam allowances or trim to ¼ inch and clip to the seam line as needed. Cut
diagonally across the corner.
c. Slash the seam allowances to the stitching in a line even with the end of the collar (B in
Figure 12).
d. Turn the facing right side out, work the seam slightly to the underside, and press (C in Figure
12).
Figure 12
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e. Cut and attach the collar, following the pattern instructional sheet.
f. To make a tie collar without a pattern, cut a strip of garment fabric twice the desired width
plus two seam allowances (usually 3½ to 4 inches wide) and a length suitable for the collar
and bow.
g. Fit the unfolded collar to the bodice neckline, right sides together, matching center back. Pin
around the neck edge along the seam line.
h. Machine stitch the collar to the bodice and fasten threads securely.
i. Fold the collar and ties with right sides together. Stitch across the end and along the side of
each tie to the point where it meets the neckline seam. Secure the stitching at both ends
(Figure 13).
Figure 13
j. Clip the corners diagonally. Trim and grade the seam allowances of the ties and neckline
seams. Clip the neck seam allowances from the edge to the stay stitching so that they will
spread as needed.
k. Turn the ties right side out and work the seam to the edge. Press.
l. Turn the neck seam allowances into the tie collar. Turn under the collar seam allowance and
stitch in place so that none of the stitches show on the right side.
Shawl Collar
The shawl collar (Figure 14) differs from attached collars because it is an extension of the
garment front and not a separate piece. The garment fronts extend around the back of the neck and
become the underside of the finished collar. The facings become the upper side of the collar.
Interfacing may be attached to either the garment front or the facing.
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Figure 14
a. Mark the angle where the collar and the front shoulder seams meet. Using 20 to 25 stitches
per inch, stitch on this seam line (a in Figure 15).
b. With right sides together, stitch the center back seam of the under collar (b in Figure 15)
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Figure 15
Figure 16
h. With right sides together, stitch the neck edge of the collar to the bodice back neck, starting
and ending exactly at the reinforced corner. Tie threads securely.
i. Reinforce the angle on the facing in the same manner as the garment.
j. Place the garment facings right sides together and machine stitch the center back seam.
Press open and trim to ⅜ inch.
k. Finish the outer edge of the facing up to the shoulder seam (a in Figure 17), using a finish
suitable for the garment and fabric.
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l. With the right sides together, join the facing to the garment, matching the center back,
notches, and seam edges. Machine stitch the entire length from the lower front edge of one
side to the lower front edge of the other side (b in Figure 17).
Figure 17
m. Trim interfacing close to the seam line. Press seam open. Trim and grade seam allowances.
n. Understitch the outer edge of the under collar across the back (a in Figure 18). Understitch
the facing to the seam allowances, starting slightly below the top button marking (b in Figure
18).
o. Turn the facing to the wrong side of the garment, working the seam slightly to the
underside. At the point where the facing becomes the upper collar, the seam should be on
the edge (c in Figure 18).
p. Press.
q. Clip the facing diagonally at the angle formed by the neck edge and the shoulder. Turn under
the seam allowance along the shoulder seam and neck edge (d in Figure 17). Stitch the
facing to the garment, making certain that the stitches do not show on the right side.
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Figure 18
a. Pin the side or underarm seams together. Be sure to match seam allowances of the front
and back blouses. Check to see that the front and back blouses are joined together and not
the two front or two back parts.
b. Stitch the seams. Press open and finish the seams with the appropriate seam finish.
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Setting in the Sleeves
Set-In Sleeves
In a set-in sleeve, the cap fullness is eased into the armhole of the garment. The sleeve may
be long, short, or three-quarter length and finished with or without a cuff.
The sleeves should be carefully fitted to check the location of the elbow darts and the sleeve
length. After the sleeves are fitted, they should be completely finished before they are permanently
stitched into the armhole.
a. Using an ease stitch, sew on the seam line around the cap of the sleeve between the
notches. The weight of the fabric will determine the number of stitches per inch. A second
row of stitches may be helpful to those who are inexperienced in fabric manipulation or if
the fabric is difficult to control. If a second row of stitches is needed, it is placed in the seam
allowance about ⅛ inch from the seam line.
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Stitching sleeve cap to ease fullness
a. Pull up the ease threads from both sides to shape the sleeve cap. Hold the sleeve cap over
the fingers and note its shape and the position of the grain. Adjust the ease so that it is
distributed evenly and smoothly and the grain is in the correct position.
Note: Sleeves of heavier fabrics will fit into the armholes more smoothly if the excess
fullness is shrunk out of the seam allowances. To shrink out fullness, place the sleeve
cap over a pressing cushion. With a steam iron or with a damp cloth and dry iron,
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steam the seam allowance. Continue steaming until the fabric shrinks to the desired
shape. Do not shrink the sleeve cap itself, only the seam allowance.
b. Make necessary alterations in the length of the shoulder seam or the size of the armhole
before the sleeve is stitched into the armhole.
c. With right sides together, fit the sleeve into the armhole.
● Match the top of the sleeve to the shoulder line and the sleeve seam to the garment
seam. Pin.
● Match the notches and marks between notches and shoulder, and pin. There is ease
all around the sleeve, including the underarm area. Accurate matching of the notches
keeps this ease where it belongs. (Caution: Do not allow underarm ease to go up into
the sleeve cap area.)
● Curve the armhole seam over the hands with the fingers against the blouse and the
sleeve seam up. Use the thumbs to distribute the ease and smooth out puckers.
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f. Stitch the armhole seam. Starting at one to the notches, stitch under the arm and around
the cap to the starting place. To strengthen the seam, continue stitching to make a double
row of stitches under the arm between the notches.
g. If necessary for comfort, the armhole seam allowance may be trimmed to ¼ inch between
the notches at the underarm.
h. If the fabric ravels, overcast the armhole seam edges together.
i. Turn the seam allowances into the sleeve, but do not press. If shoulder pads are to be used,
fasten them in place at this time.
The blouse is usually hemmed by slip stitching. Slip stitches made on the hemline should not
be seen on the right side of the dress. Neat and invisible slip stitches on a dress add to the nice and
neat appearance of the garment.
In hemming the blouse, turn up the hem on the hemline mark, pin a press the folded edge.
Mark the hem width and cut the extra material. Finish the hem by turning the raw edge under ¼ inch
and stitch on the fold.
Make slip stitches by taking a small stitch on the blouse. Then take another stitch on the fold
opposite where the thread comes out of the garment. Repeat the procedure until the hemline of the
blouse is finished.
The side seams of the skirt are joined together by following the steps described below:
a. Put the right sides of the material together. Pin the edges and sew on the seam line.
b. Finish the seams with appropriate finish. You can use one of the following methods.
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2) Sew on the edge of the seam and pink the edges.
3) Turn the raw edges and machine stitch ½ cm from the edge.
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Zipper
Types
of Zipper:
a. Conventional zipper
This is closed at one end and is sewn into a seam that is stitched to the zipper
placket (the space into which the zipper is fitted).
b. Separating zipper
This is open at both ends and is sewn into a seam that will open completely.
c. Invisible zipper
This is constructed in such a way that it disappears into a seam; like conventional zipper,
an invisible zipper has one closed end.
All the zippers consist of either a chain of metal or plastic teeth or a synthetic filament
formed into ladder or coil sewn to fabric tapes. Since metal and nylon zippers are about equal in
strength and performance, the choice is largely a matter or personal preference.
Nylon zippers are lighter in weight and usually more flexible than metal zippers and are
available in more colors.
Metal zippers come in heavy-duty forms which are suitable for jeans and work clothes.
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Zippers are opened and closed by means of slider with a handle like tab that moves it up and
down. Top and bottom stops keep the slider from running off the zipper.
Zippers are usually used on the side, front and back plackets of skirts, dresses, shorts, or
pants. The placket is usually one cm longer than the zipper.
Zippers are very good fasteners. They may be bought in different colors and length. Zippers
from clothes which are to be discarded can be removed and used again.
The open seam method is used in attaching the zipper. Here, the zipper is hidden inside the
skirt placket and only a single row of machine stitching is seen on the garment.
In the open-seam method, the zipper is attached by doing the following procedure:
a. Press the skirt placket. Make ½ cm fold on the left side of the placket.
b. Turn the skirt on the wrong side and hand baste the zipper to the placket. Use a zipper foot
in machine stitching the edge of the placket. Sew as close to the zipper’s teeth as possible.
c. Turn the skirt on the right side. Pin or baste the right portion of the zipper placket. Sew the
zipper starting ½ cm at the end of the zipper. Continue stitching up the waistline. Make the
end stitches by double stitching at the waistline.
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d. Remove baste stitches or pins on the placket.
Pockets
Pockets usually are part of the garment design and may be both functional and decorative. It
is a piece of cloth stitched to a garment that serves as a small pouch or bag for carrying small items.
It can be patched, inserted into a well or finished as per a bound buttonhole or welt. Since in-seam
pockets do not show from the outside of the garment, they may be added to a skirt or a dress
without affecting the design of the garment. They are not suitable for sheer fabrics or straight skirts
where bulk will be noticeable. The addition of patch pockets will affect the design and must be
planned very carefully.
In-Seam Pockets
The in-seam pocket may be made of two pieces of garment or lining fabric, or it may be cut
as an extension of the skirt sections.
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To make in-seam pockets:
a. Mark the desired location for the pocket opening on both the front and back sections of the
garment. An opening of 6 inches or more is needed.
b. For each pocket, cut 2 pieces of lining or garment fabric 3 or 4 inches longer than the desired
opening and 6 to 8 inches wide. Cut on the lengthwise grain, or follow the garment grainline.
With right sides together, cut the pocket in a modified oval.
c. With right sides together, pin or baste one pocket section to the garment seam. Machine
stitch ½ inch from the cut edge.
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f. Pre
ss the seam on
the back
garment
section toward the
pocket.
g. Match and pin the
pocket sections
and skirt
seams.
h. Machine
stitch the seams
from the bottom
of the garment to
the lower end of the pocket opening. With the machine needle in the fabric, raise the
presser foot and turn the garment. Lower the presser foot and continue stitching around the
pocket.
i. To press the skirt seam open below the pocket, clip the back seam allowance to the seam
line at point
j. When the pocket is cut as an extension of the skirt, follow the above procedure, beginning
with step 7.
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Attaching the Waistband
The waistband is usually cut when the fabric for the skirt is cut. Use the same pattern in
cutting the interfacing. The length of the band should be equal to the waist measurement plus the
allowance for the overlap and for the seam allowance. After attaching the zipper, the waistband
should now be attached to the skirt.
c.
Match and pin the right side of the skirt to the right side of the waistband.
d. Hand baste the waistband and then check if it fits. Stitch on the seamline.
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e. Turn the seam allowance inside the waistband and baste in place.
f. Slip stitch the folded edge and machine stitch around the waistband.
Hook-and-eyes are usually attached on portions of clothes where there is much strain, such
as in collars, waistbands, pants, belts, and cuffs of sleeves. There are two kinds of metal eyes used in
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openings. The straight eyes are used on edges that overlap, as on waistbands; while the round eyes
are used where edges are just meet, as on the back opening of collars.
Start sewing at the end of one ring of the straight eye. Use buttonhole stitches that are close
to each other around the ring. Sew on the other ring. The rings of the hook are sewn in the same
way as the rings of the eye.
The end of the hook is fastened to the garment with several overhand stitches.
A hem is made by folding the edge of the garment once or twice on the wrong side and
fastening it to the garment by hand hemming. Hems may be finished with blanket stitch, slip stitch,
or catch stitch. Hand hemming allows a garment to fall in softer lines. It is invisible, smooth and the
garment can be remodeled without leaving too many marks on the fabric.
Before hemming the skirt, put it on first. Close the zipper and get a partner to help you in
determining the length of the skirt. Proceed in making hem stitches on the skirt.
a. Put on the skirt. Let your partner help you in putting pins on the skirt. Stand up straight on a
table while your partner marks the hem of your skirt.
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b. Remove the skirt and see if the marks are straight. Fold the skirt on the marks and put pins
perpendicular to the edge of the folded skirt edge.
c. Baste skirt 1 centimeter (3/8 inch) from the folded edge. Mark the width of the hem.
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e. Turn the edge and stitch near the edge.
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TASK SHEET 3.3-1
Steps/Procedure:
performance evaluation
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Performance Criteria Checklist 3.3-1
CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you….
1. Determined the equipment needed
2. Prepared all the fabric according to their specification
3. Pressed the fabric according to their specification
4. Pinned the cut parts fabric according to the garments
designed and style.
parts are pin together in accordance with garment design or style
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Information Sheet 3.3-2
Procedure in applying accessories and accents
BUTTONS
Buttons should be selected carefully to suit both the weight andcolor of the fabric.
The advantages of using buttons as closures arenumerous. They are both functional and
decorative. They should be sewnsecurely by a strong matching thread in such a way that it
allows thebuttonholes to close under the button without puckering the fabric. The fabric on
which the button is attached should be reinforced to preventtearing or pulling under strain.
There are two types of buttons: Buttons with holes and shanktype buttons. The
latter are attached to the garment from the under side.Buttons may be made of fabric, bone,
glass, metal, plastic etc. On dressesbuttons covered with self-fabric may be used. If you
provide scraps offabric to well establish tailors, they get the buttons covered by a special
machine. Covering may be done by hand also.Buttons are placed centrally on the centre
front and centre backlines of the garment except in unusual cases. Sufficient buttons should
be spaced equally to ensure that the opening is neat without gaping between buttons. The
width of spacing varies according to the positionof opening, fabric weight and size of button.
Very few or many buttonscan spoil the appearance of the finished garment. On a shirt or
blousethe buttons must be placed to avoid gaping across the bust and on a waisted garment
a button must always be used at the waist, because thisis the stress point of the garment.
a. Sewing buttons with holesSew this type of button using double thread bringing the
needleup and down through the holes in the buttons with a pin kept over thebutton. After
working enough stitches, remove the pin, lift the buttons.
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FASTENERSsix times. Now fasten the thread on the wrong side. Buttons with fourholes may
be sewn in the shape of a cross, two parallel lines, a square oran arrow head (Fig. 8.3a).
b. Sewing fancy or shank buttons:Bring needle through fabric and shank and then back
throughfabric. Stitch through fabric and shank until button is secure Fastenthread on
underside (Fig. 8.3b).
Fig. 8.3 Sewing buttons with (a) holes and (b) shank
Fig. 8.3c Sewing press buttonsand form a shank by winding the thread tightly around the
strands about
Worked Buttonholes
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Ladies’ blouses are usually buttoned from right to left so the buttonholes should be made on
the right side of the blouse. Holes through which buttons pass through are called buttonholes. If a
blouse is buttoned down at the front, the buttonholes may be placed horizontally or vertically.
Horizontal buttonholes are made ½ cm outside the centerline while the vertical buttonholes are
made on the center line. The mark of the exact length of buttonholes should be ¼ cm to ½ cm longer
than the diameter of the button. Buttonholes should be cut crosswise or lengthwise, following the
thread of the material. Use pointed and sharp scissors when cutting the buttonholes.
Worked buttonholes are more beautiful than machine buttonholes. Machine made
buttonholes are easy to make and do not need patience and skill in making them. Practice is
required in making worked buttonhole. Worked buttonholes are not hard to make on strong and
closely woven materials. Horizontal buttonholes are squared with buttonhole stitches at both ends.
● spaced evenly;
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a. Mark the buttonholes.
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d. Make the buttonholes from right to left. Start at the side nearest you. Make a circle with
the thread at the point where the next buttonhole stitch is to be made. Hold the lower
edge of the circle with the thumb. Insert the needle under the cloth and pull the needle
upwards. Make several buttonhole stitches up to the end.
e. When the other edge is reached, start making the fan. Make about 5-7 stitches to make
the rays of the fan.
f. Continue making the buttonhole stitches up to the other end. Finish end of the
buttonhole by making two bar threads directly across the end. Work blanket stitches
closely over them. Fasten threads at the back.
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Attaching Fasteners
Buttons
Buttons are those with shank and those with 2 or 4 holes. They are used as fasteners or as
decorations. They should be attached well.
When attaching flat buttons with holes, follow the steps below:
a. Fasten thread on wrong side. Make a small stitch where the button is to be sewn.
b. Place a pin on top of the button and sew over it. A stem is placed so that there will be space
for fabric under the button when the garment is buttoned. Bring needle up through the
button, then to the other hole back to the fabric. Make several stitches.
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c. Remove pin. Insert needle in between the thread and fabric. Wind thread around to make a
stem or shank. Draw thread to the wrong side and fasten.
A button with a shank can be attached like a flat button, except that the needle is inserted
under the hole on the other side of the button. These buttons should not be sewn too closely to the
garment if these are to be used as fasteners.
Snaps
Snaps
are used
on places
where
a flat and invisible closing is needed. It is also used where there is little strain on the opening.
Place the ball part of the snap on the wrong side of the right portion of the blouse and mark
position with a pin. Sew the ball parts and place tailor’s chalk mark on the balls. Lap and put together
the two edges and press together so that the tailor’s chalk marks will be transferred to the other
side.
Sewing on Snaps
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b. Make overhand or buttonhole stitches on each hole.
c. Continue making the stitches on the four holes. Fasten thread on the wrong side.
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SELF-CHECK 3.3-2
Multiple choice: Choose the letter of the best answer. Write the letter of the choice of your
answer sheet.
1. What is a kind of small fasteners having less holding power than hook &eye?
A. buttons with hole
B. buttons
C. press buttons or snaps
D. buttonholer
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ANSWER KEY 3-1.1b
1. C
2. A
3. B
4. B
5. A
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TASK SHEET 3. 3-2
Supplies/Materials :Finish garment, threads, zipper , Hook and eye, button, lace,
threads
Steps/Procedure:
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design/style specifications
2. Accessories and accents position are marked and attached in
accordance with garment design/style specification
3. Accessories and accents are sewn by hand or machine in
accordance to garment design/style specifications
4. Finishing operations are performed in accordance with customer’s
specifications and company’s procedures.
Assessment Method:
Demonstration
Performance evaluation
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Date Revised:
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Performance Criteria Checklist 3.3-2
CRITERIA YES NO
Did you….
1. Checked the finishing touches are in
accordance with garments design/style
specifications
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4. Finishing operations are performed in
accordance with customer’s
specifications and company’s procedures
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INFORMATION SHEET 3.3-3
PROCEDURE IN PRESSING
Learning objectives
INTRODUCTION
A variety of tools and equipment are used for performing various
functions in pressing, etc. Knowledge about these tools will help us to choose
the right tool to complete a particular task in the process of garment
construction.
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PRESSING TOOLS
Iron:
This keep an automatic iron handy for pressing fabric beforecutting, during
construction and after the garment is completed.
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Steam Iron:
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Ironing Board:
It is used for hand pressing which is padded and of convenientheight. One
may use an ordinary table covered with sheet and blanketfor this purpose.
Sleeve Board:
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This is a well-padded miniature of a full-sized ironing boardand is used to
press sleeves and hard-to-reach small details (Fig. 2k).
It has a tapered end on one side and a round end on the other side.
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Pressing collar machine
This machine is use for pressing collar it makes pressing collar more easy and
made the appearance of the pointed edge of the collar is in exact shape
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Press cloth:
Fabric used for press cloth should be colorfast and should be washed or boiled
to remove all sizing.
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This 2 types of pressing machine mostly used in garments industry.
That might develop a shine.
• Pressing rules:
• use proper setting for fabric type to prevent scorching or melting
• test on underside if not certain of proper temperature
• iron along the lengthwise grain of fabric to keep from stretching
garment out of shape
• use a pressing cloth on wool, velvet or any other fabric that might
develop a shine
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SELF CHECK 3.3-3
MULTIPLE CHOICE:
Choose the letter of the best answer. White the letter of your choice on your answer
sheet.
1. This is the automatic handy in pressing fabric.
a. sleeve board
b.ironing board
c.iron
d.steam iron
2. This tools has an adjustable temperature control.
a.steam iron
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b.iron
c.ironing board
d.pressing
3. This is used for hand pressing which is padded and convenient height.
a. iron
b.ironing board
c.pressing
d.steam iron
4. This is well padded miniature pressing.
a. sleeve board
b.ironing board
c.pressing
d.iron
5. This machine use for pressing collar
a. sleeve board
b.ironing board
c.pressing collar machine
d.iron
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ANSWER KEY 3.3-3
1. C
2. A
3. B
4. A
5. C
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6. A
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TASK SHEET 3.3-3
Supplies/Materials : fabric
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Steps/Procedure:
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Performance Criteria Checklist 3.3-3
CRITERIA
YES NO
Did you….
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3. Understand the procedure in pressing
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Sector:
GARMENTS
Qualification:
DRESSMAKING NC II
Unit of Competency:
DRAFT AND CUT PATTERN FOR
CASUAL APPAREL
TCLASS
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Date Developed:
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Date Revised:
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March 10, 2020
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HOW TO USE THIS MODULE
This learning material is designed to you in learning at your own pace. To start
with, talk with your trainer and agree on how you will both organize the training for
this module. Most probably your trainer will also be your supervisor or manager.
He/she is there to support you and guide you the correct way to do things. From time
to time you will be required to practice and demonstrate the skills that you’ve learn
In this module you will be requiring some assistance from your trainer (as
instructed in the learning materials.
To proceed with the learning session you just have guide go through the Learning
Activity Sheet where in you will follow series of learning instructions towards
attaining the learning outcome.
This module covers the knowledge, skills and attitudes required in drafting
and cutting basic/block patterns for ladies casual apparel.
The lesson deals with the client’s job requirements in accordance with standard
operating procedure such as the preparation of garment design. It also includes
selection of designs and fabrics and incorporation of special needs of clients in the
design based on procedure. Applying finishing touches for casual apparel .
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Date Developed:
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Date Revised:
DRESSMAKING NC
March 10, 2020
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Dressmaking
List of Competencies
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No. Unit of Competency Module Title
Code
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UNIT OF COMPETENCY : APPLY FINISHING
TOUCHES ON CASUAL
APPAREL
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NOMINAL DURATION : 40 Hours
CERTIFICATE LEVEL : NC II
PREREQUISITE :
LEARNING OUTCOMES :
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LO 1. Apply finishing touches
ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:
1. Finishing touches are checked in accordance with garments
design/style specifications
2. Accessories and accents position are marked and attached in
accordance with garment design/style specification
3. Garment is checked for loose threads, missing buttons and
attachments
4. Bodice hems allowances and sleeves are folded and pinned in
accordance with customer’s specifications
5. Hemline allowances are sewn in accordance with the given
stitch/seam specifications
6. Accessories and accents are sewn by hand or machine in
accordance to garment design/style specifications
7. Finishing operations are performed in accordance with customer’s
specifications and company’s procedures.
CONTENT:
● Types and functions of finishing touches
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● Procedure in pressing
CONDITIONS:
● Needles
● Cut fabrics
● Pins
● Testing fabrics
● Threads
● Cutting table
● Tailors chalk/pencil
● Cutting tool
● Tape measure
● Steam Iron
● Cutting shears
● Ironing board
● Specification sheet
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Date Revised:
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March 10, 2020
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● Model/dress form
● Seam ripper
● Sleeve board/ham
● Testing fabric
● Garment sample
METHODOLOGY :
● Self-paced/Modular
● Group Discussion
ASSESSMENT METHOD:
● Written Test
● Actual performance
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Learning Outcome
Date Developed:
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Date Revised:
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Accessories and accent
Answer self check 4.1-3
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Kinds of Fastener
Information sheet 4.1-1
There are four types of fastener which are commonly used. They are
buttons, snaps, zippers and hook-and-eyes.
Buttons
1. Square
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2. Parallel
3. Cross
4. Arrow head
5. Common way
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2. Place a pin on a top of the button and
sew over it. A stem is placed so that
there will be space for the fabric under
the button when the garment is
buttoned. Bring needle up through the
button then to the other hole back to
the fabric. Make several stitches.
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Snaps
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Steps to Follow in Attaching Snap Fastener
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3. Continue making stitches on the four
Worked Buttonholes
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the diameter of the button. Buttonholes should be cut crosswise or
lengthwise following are thread of the material. Use sharp and pointed
scissors when cutting the buttonholes. Horizontal buttonholes are made by
making a fan at one end and a bar at the other end while vertical
buttonholes are squared with buttonholes stitches at both ends.
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Worked buttonholes should be:
● spared evenly
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a. Mark the buttonholes.
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d. Make buttonholes from right to left.
Start at the side nearest you. Make a
circle with the thread at the point
where next buttonholes stitch is to be
made. Hold the lower edge of the circle
with the thumb. Insert the needle
under the cloth and pull the needle
upwards. Make several buttonholes
stitches up to the end.
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f. Continue making the buttonhole
stitches up to the other end. Finish end
of the buttonhole by making 2 bar
threads directly across the end. Work
blanket stitches closely over them.
Fasten thread at t
Hook-and-Eye
Hook-and-eye is used to
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Self Check
I. Multiple Choice: Read and understand the items below. Choose the best
answer that will identify the item being described. Write
the letter of your answer in your quiz notebook.
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1. There are four types of fastener. Which of the following is the most
commonly used?
a. button
b. hook-and-eye
c. snap
d. zipper
a. arrow head
b. common way
c. cross
d. parallel
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b. bars on both ends
d. spared evenly
ANSWERS KEY
1.
2.
3.
4.
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a
b
a
a
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Information Sheet 4.1
PRESSING
form
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March 10, 2020
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Final finishing process
●
The purpose of pressing is to make the fabric smooth or to give it a
●
form,such as turnup or form
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Date Revised:
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March 10, 2020
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General Pressing Techniques
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● Regulate the iron temperature as directed on the permanent
care label, or on the dial setting for the fabric. If you are unsure
about the fiber content, begin by testing it with low temperature
setting.
● If you are working on the thin fabrics or doing slow work, as in
shrinking or pressing gathers, keep the iron temperature
slightly lower than for heavier fabrics.
● Line and cotton require considerable moisture or eliminating
wrinkle and should be pressed until dry for smooth finish.
● Wool requires moisture in pressing to prevent damage to the
fibers – dry heat maker them brittle.
● Thick materials need more pressure.
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● Press embroidery, brand buttons, and such rough textures from
the wrong side over the soft pad.
● Press collars, lapels, cuff, belts, and pocket first on the wrong
side. Then finish them on the right side very lightly over a press
cloth.
● Avoid lengthwise creases in sleeves or lapels.
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5. Press the top parts of long garment before the lower part, blouse
before skirt, skirt top before lower part of the skirt.
6. Collar is usually the last because its position next to the face is
so important.
7. Hang the garment on a well padded hanger to dry completely,
without crowding.
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Date Revised:
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March 10, 2020
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Templates for Inventory of Training Resources
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Photographs 25 pcs. Met TR Req.
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As per TR As per Remarks
● Tools
Inventory
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As per TR As per Remarks
● Equipment
Inventory
Note: In the remarks section, remarks may include for repair, for replenishment, for
reproduction, for maintenance etc.
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March 10, 2020
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