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NEEDLEWORK WITHOUT **
SPECIMENS "
{Frontispiece )
Blouse showing Finished Appearance and Decoration with

Feather- stitching.
NEEDLEWORK
WITHOUT "SPECIMENS"
THE MODERN BOOK OF SCHOOL
NEEDLEWORK
BY
ELLEN P. CLAYDON
n\
HEAD MISTRESS OF CHUCKERY COUNCIL SCHOOL, WALSALL AUTHOR
;
OF " HANDWORK AND NEEDLEWORK " AND JOINT AUTHOR

OF " KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS "
'
'
AND
C. A. CLAYDON
SEWING MISTRESS, TANTARRA STREET MIXED SCHOOL, WALSALL
"
JOINT AUTHOR OF " KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS
'
'
NEW YORK
E. P. DUTTON & COMPANY
681 FIFTH AVENUE
Printed by
Sir Isaac Pitman & Sons, Ltd., London
PREFACE.
As many books dealing exhaustively with needlework are already in existence,
some apology seems needed for the present work, or, at all events, some explanation
of the attitude towards the subject here adopted.
The preparation of the book has been undertaken partly in response to inquiries
for a se^\'ing-book on similar lines to Knitting without " Specimens," and partly
because the plan it suggests has been proved to have an inspiring effect on
needlework teaching.
Sewing is an occupation which has lately been the subject of much thoughtful
inquiry by teachers and educationists generally, and their investigations have
resulted in a desire to obtain from the subject more of living interest, of educational
value, and of practical utility.
The feeling has been steadily growing that a great deal of purposeless work, and
far too much time, labour, and material have been expended on working the isolated,
monotonous, and abstract exercises known as " Specimens." This dreary plan of
approaching the subject has not only failed to kindle that permanent interest in
needlework which alone is the proof of successful teaching, but it has often also
produced an actual distaste for the subject.
Further, the educational value of such a plan was almost negligible. The method
of teaching was in complete contradiction to the fact that a child " thinks in order
to do." The girl had no desired goal to reach, no inspiring motive such as the
construction of an article interesting to herself, and therefore the need for thought
was reduced to a minimum. The " Specimen " plan was in contradiction, moreover,
to the educational maxim that teaching should proceed from the concrete to the
abstract, for it ignored the concrete {i.e., the actual garment or article), which was
\vithin the sphere of the child's understanding and interest, and not only commenced,
but frequently ended with a long series of abstract exercises.
Again, the instinctive lines of a child's development (always a valuable guide)
lend no support to the plan of abstract exercises. If a little child is supplied with
seudng material, she does not cut out a strip and work a long line of hemming, but
begins right away with perfect self-confidence on a doll's bonnet, muff, or similar
article, which she sews together in a way of her own. This surely indicates the
most natural, and therefore the best, way of approaching the subject. In the
scheme of instruction suggested in this book, an attempt has been made to arrange
for the teaching of all varieties of stitches, by embodying them from the beginning
in actual useful articles and garments, cut out by the children themselves. Such a
plan satisfies the girl's instinct to do and construct, instead of thwarting it ; and in
working out her instinct, she not only becomes acquainted with materials, but has
to think out how she can overcome obstacles and difficulties. This is a valuable
educational phase of needlework, and in this connection it is well to remember
—
iv PREFACE.
that the best kind of needlework, Hkc tlic best of any other kind of handwork, is
that which demands the most thought. Apart from the actual outward skill in
cutting and stitching which the girl obtains (yet equally important) are the
readjustment of her mental outlook and her sense of increasing power.
The interest, moreover, which is brought into play when the girl is carrying out
an instinctive desire of her own, is a tremendous stimulus to sustained attention.
The knowledge, too, that the least carelessness may spoil her cherished article also
ensures continued attention, and it is impossible to over-estimate the lifelong value
of an established habit of concentration on work undertaken.
Again, girls who learn to cut out and make actual articles and garments from
the time they first begin needlework, will always feel at home with the subject,
and have an aptitude for cutting and sewing which no subsequent amount of adult
training could ever give them. Similarly, if the repairing of her own clothes is
taken throughout the course, from the sewing on of her buttons by the little seven-
year-old girl, to the adapting of cast-off garments by the senior pupils, appreciation
of neatness will be inculcated, and habits of thrift and tidiness formed, which will
not afterwards be easily lost.
The following are briefly the points to which consideration was given in planning
the work of the scheme
(1) Careful gradation in difficulty has been considered, so that the child's
self-confidence shall be preserved, while sufficient new work is introduced to call
forth effort.
(2) The time necessary completing an article has also been graded, so that
for
it increases gradually with the age of the child. A remote end does not appeal to
a little child, and therefore small articles have been suggested for the younger
children. Such articles can usually be cut out on the desks by the whole class at
one time, and mistakes are not so costly.
(3) The choice of articles has been guided by the development of a girl's instinctive
interests at each successive stage, from the doll's clothes and bed-clothes of the
small child, to the garments for the supply of social needs which give dignity to the
work of the older girl. This selection of articles vitally interesting to her has been
found to stimulate greatly the girl's out-of-door observations. She quickly observes
new stitches, designs, shapes, and fashions in shop-windows, in the playground,
and the street, and is delighted when she can adapt these to her own use.
(4) A considerable variety of material has been introduced, in order to give as
much experience as possible in qualities, widths, and prices. It should be noted
that the prices given can only be regarded as approximate, because even in normal
times they vary from district to district.
(5) The dictates of present fashions have been considered, and methods of
training in artistic appreciation and good taste have been suggested throughout.
(6) The use of the sewing machine has been introduced at as early a stage as
is found possible in the majority of schools.
(7) The educational aspect of Needlework in its connection with Arithmetic

and Drawing has been carefully dealt with in the plan of work suggested in the
" General Instructions," and also under each lesson.
PREFACE. V
(8) Repairing lessons have been arranged for girls of all ages. Suggestions
with regard to the various methods of conducting these are given under the
" General Instructions," and a description of suitable mending lessons also appears
under the work of each class.
The general method, briefly outlined above, and worked out in detail in the
lessons suggested for each class, of teaching sewing without " Specimen " practice,
has been adversely criticised by some teachers : they argue that the fineness and
regularity of the stitches will suffer, since, as the girls spend more time in measuring,
cutting, discussing materials and prices, mending, etc., they do not obtain the
immense amount of mechanical drill which was supplied under the old regime.
The reply to such arguments is well given in the recent Report on Needlework
Teaching by the Head Inspectress of Schools, in which she states :
" It is not the
first duty of the elementary school to turn out fine needlewomen. The sacrifice
of fine stitches is not too great a price to pay for freedom and common sense. A
small number of girls will still be fine needlewomen, because they have a special
taste for the Avork, but in the majority of public elementary schools needlework must
first of all be useful."
The writers would like to take this opportunity of acknowledging the great help
they have received from Mr. H. Bullock, Head Master of Tantarra Street Mixed
School, \Yalsall, who prepared the whole of the illustrative diagrams, and of
expressing their thanks and indebtedness to Miss E. R. Hambridge for the guidance
obtained from her Blackboard Diagram Drawing for Teachers of Needlecraft.
They are also much indebted to the kindness and courtesy of Mr. G. S. Hodson,
H.M.I., and ^liss Morris, H.M.I. for helpful practical suggestions with regard to
,
the guiding principles underlying the arrangement of the whole scheme.
E. P. CLAYDON.
C. A. CLAYDON.
CONTENTS.
PREFACE .........
.......
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS
PLAN OF LESSON
.......
REPAIRING LESSONS
. . . . . .
EMBROIDERY SILKS AND COTTONS OF BRITISH MANUFACTURE

.
LEADING TYPES OF EMBROIDERY THREADS

doll's BEDSTEAD MADE OF CARDBOARD ....
Standard I.
1.
2. QUILT FOR doll's BED .....
SMALL NEEDLE BOOK FOR CHILD'S OWN USE
....
3.
4.
doll's PERAMBULATOR COVER
FIRST SHEET FOR DOLL's BED ....
5.
6. BLANKET FOR DOLL's BED ....
PINCUSHION FOR CHILD'S OWN USE .
7.
8. PILLOW FOR doll's BED ....
MAKING UP OF KNITTED GARMENTS BY OVERSEWING
....
9.
10.
BOLSTER FOR DOLL's BED
MATTRESS FOR DOLL's BED ....
11.
12.
13.
doll's t.\ble-cloth .....
book-marker for child's own use
CASEMENT CURTAINS FOR DOLL's HOUSE .
14. SECOND SHEET FOR DOLL's BED

15.
16. —
FL.\G ST. George's cross
REPAIRING LESSONS.
....
HANDKERCHIEF FOR CHILD'S OWN USE
.....
Standard II.
1.
2.
dolls CUSHION COVER
doll's dutch bonnet
....
....
3. brush and comb BAG FOR CHILd'S OWN USE
4. NIGHTDRESS CASE FOR GIRL's OWN USE
5. SHOE B.\G
6. KNITTING B.-VG
7. FL.\G FRENCH TRICOLOUR
8. doll's PINAFORE
9. doll's princess PETTICOAT
10. doll's COMBINATIONS
11. RUSSIAN FLAG
12. doll's PETTIC0.\T WITHOUT BODICE
VII
Vlll CONTENTS.
PACE
13. DOLL NIGHTDRESS
S 60
14. doll's MAGYAR FROCK 63
15. kettle-holder 66
16. doll's stays 67
REPAIRING lessons 69
Standard III.
1.
2. child's feeder ......

fancy-work bag of fine canvas
.......
. 70
72
3.
4.
5.
baby's bib
....
boy's woodwork apron
sewing bag for girl's own use .
74
77
79
6. SMALL pleated APRON FOR A DOLL 81
.....
.
7. FANCY MAT FOR L.\MP OR FERN-POT . 83

8. MATCH-BOX HOLDER 85
9. FLANNELETTE PETTICOAT WITH DOUBLE BODICE 86
10. HANDKERCHIEF C.\SE OF CANVAS (LINED) . 89
11.
12. ....
SIMPLE COTT.\GE PINAFORE FOR GIRL's OWN WEAR
.....
SIMPLE SLIP-OVER PINAFORE
REPAIRING LESSONS
91
94
98
Standard
1. DUCHESSE SET .....
......
IV.
99
2.
3.
4.
GLOVE CASE
TOILET TIDY ......
SMALL APRON GATHERED INTO A BAND
101
103
104
5. HOLD- ALL OR WALL POCKET 105
6. EASY PINAFORE WITH SHOULDER-STRAPS . 107
7.
8.
9.
child's dutch BONNET
TABLE CENTRE
....
baby's simple frock with MAGYAR TOP
.....
109
114
117
10.
REPAIRING lessons ....
PETER PAN COLLAR FOR GIRL's OWN WEAR 118
122
Standard V.
1. BOOK-COVER OF JAVA CLOTH 124
2.
3. SCALLOPED MOB HAT ....
baby's SHORT FLANNEL PETTICOAT . 126
130
4.
5.
6(a).
baby's DRAWERS .....
WHITE PETTICOAT WITH BODICE FOR CHILD'S
FULL COOKING OR SEWING SLEEVES

133
136
138
6(b). fitted COOKING OR SEWING SLEEVES 139
......
.
7. HEM-STITCHED LAMP MAT 140

8. CHAIR BACK 143
9.
REPAIRING LESSONS ....
HEM-STITCHED HANDKERCHIEF CASE 145
148
Y
CONTENTS.
Standard VI.
PAGE
1. PINXUSHIOX COVER OF JAVA CLOTH 152
.....
.
2. girl's COOKERY OR LAUNDRY APRON 154

3. baby's stays 157
4. KNICKERS. (a) FOR YOUNGER SISTER OF 5 OR 6 158
(b) TO FIT THE MAKER . 163
5. SIDEBOARD CLOTH OR PIANO TOP 163
6. HEM-STITCHED NIGHTDRESS CASE 166
7. PRINCESS PETTICOAT FOR CHILD'S OWN WEAR 171
8. TUCKED CAMISOLE FOR GIRL's OWN WEAR 174
9. SEAMLESS CAMISOLE WITHOUT TUCKS, FOR GIRL'SS OWN WEAR 177
10. SIMPLE YOKELESS FROCK FOR GIRL's OWN WEAR R 179
.....
. . .
11. JAP.\NESE COSTUME FOR CHILDREN'S PLAYS 186

12. BREAD DOYLE
REPAIRING LESSONS .... 192
196
Standard VII.
1. NIGHTDRESS FOR GIRL's OWN WEAR 198

2. COMBINATIONS FOR GIRL's OWN WEAR 202
3. BLOUSE FOR GIRL's OWN WEAR 205
4. SERGE SKIRT FOR GIRL's OWN WEAR 212
5. SWIMMING DRESS FOR GIRL's OWN WEAR . 218
6. FANCY BAG FOR CROCHET-WORK 221
7.
8. TRAY CLOTH .......
DRILL TUNIC AND KNICKERS FOR GIRL's OWN WEAR 224
230
9.
REP.\IRING LESSONS .....
baby's PERAMBULATOR COVER 231
234
—
NEEDLEWORK WITHOUT
" SPECIMENS."
THE MODERN BOOK OF SCHOOL
NEEDLEWORK.
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS.
I. It will be observed that a very wide range of articles has been suggested for
each standard or class. It is unlikely that any one girl will make all the articles
described but the syllabus for each class should, as the recent report on the
;
teaching of Needlework suggests, provide a choice of garments. Each girl may

then select those which she requires (embodying the new points to be taught),
provided that she has not made the same articles or garments before. The report
adds :
" Varietv of work is good both for the teacher and the class. The tradition
that a child cannot be expected to make more than one garment per year is passing
away."
This wide choice of articles will be found particularly useful by teachers in small
schools, and in mixed schools where the necessity for grouping classes frequently
means that a child is kept in the same group for two years. In such a case, in spite
of some unavoidable repetition of stitches, variety is afforded, and interest
maintained, by the making of quite different articles in the second year.
Each teacher will, of course, be guided also by the interests and needs of her
own particular girls and district, and will find little difficulty in adding to the
suggested syllabus, or modifying it to suit her own requirements.
II. —
As ordinary sewing stitches and processes will probably already be well
known by any teacher using this book, no detailed instructions are given for these,
but the teacher is referred to some of the excellent books dealing with such points
which are already in existence.
All the decorative stitches, and new work not usually included in plain sewing,
are fully described.
III. —The garments have been graded, not only according to the difficulty of
the stitches and the time allowed for their completion (as pointed out in the Pre-
face), but also according to the difficulty of measuring, cutting, and shaping pre-
sented by each. A number of garments and articles have been included involving
the drawing of curves as well as the measurement and ruling of straight lines ; the
production of curves teaches the girl to rely on her eye and hand, instead of on a
ruler, and thus self-reliance is developed. It is best not to give her too much
guidance in the production of curves, as it is important to train her to depend upon
her eye in recognising a well-fitting garment.
—
IV. Whenever it is found possible, the girls should be allowed to bring their
11
12 NEEDLEWORK WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
own material for garments. This is advisable in the case of small articles in lower
standards, because it gives the children practice in pinning on their own paper
patterns and cutting out the garments in material. When the teacher has to
prepare pieces of school material for the whole class, she is often unable, from
the point of view of economy, to allow any margin on the material for the child
to cut away. In such cases, the practice obtained in cutting is limited to the
cutting out in paper of the article in question. (Throughout the book, in cases
where costs and quantities of materials are quoted for class requisition, the exact
size only of the articles has been allowed for, without margins.)
It is also highly advisable for older girls to bring their own material, because
it gives them practice in buying, and in judging the qualities, quantities, widths,
and prices suitable for special garments.
—
V. In the lower standards the articles and garments are small enough to be
cut out on the desks by the whole class at one time ; even in the case of the gar-
ments for higher standards, the instructions for cutting out have been so arranged
that the desks are utilised where possible.
—
VI. Every garment should be made to fit the child who makes it, or to fit
some particular child or doll, as the case may be. Even a very simple article,
such as a pincushion, should be cut to a particular size laid down, e.g., 4 in. by
4 in. This will train the children from the beginning to work to definite rules
for a definite end, and to fit each article for the use to which it will be put.
—
VII. Whenever dimensions are quoted in the text, it should be noted that
the selvedge measurement is invariably given first, e.g., 6 in. by 12 in. implies
that 6 in. is the length of the material down the selvedge way, and 12 in. is the
measurement across the weft way.
—
VIII. All necessary turnings are allowed for in the measurements. Dotted
lines indicate creases or folds, and shading shows waste material, or material to be
cut away when shaping the pattern.
—
IX. In most cases, except in the alternative patterns for dolls' garments in
Standard II, cutting out by measurement has been employed, in preference to
cutting out by the paper-folding method.
The latter method is, of course, very useful when the ability to produce a pat-
tern from memory is necessary, as the shaping can be more easily' remembered,
owing to the small number of actual measurements.
It is also useful in cases where patterns have to be adapted to fit different
figures, because alterations can easily be made by increasing or decreasing the
dimensions for the length and ^\ddth of the pattern before the creases are made.
This plan, however, has the disadvantage of occasionally producing inaccurate
and unsatisfactory results, as the proportions of the various parts of the body vary
with the age of the child.
On the whole, therefore, while its use is very convenient in some cases, the
folding method produces less accurate and well-fitting results than the measuring
method. Further, many patterns \vill not adapt themselves readily to being
shaped by the guidance of creases folded in paper.
Its use in this book, therefore, as previously stated, has been mainly restricted
to the cutting of dolls' garments. In the case of these garments, a pattern by
measurement is also given to fit a 16-in. doll of the dimensions given below. This
may be used when all the children in the class are required to make a garment
to fit a doll of the standard size, as it gives useful exercise in measurement in
inches, and the fit is more accurate. WTien, however, each child is allowed to make
—
PLAN OF LESSON. 13
a garment to fit her own doll, the folding method is easier, as it can be readily-
adapted to suit all sizes. Each child will then select a paper of the size best suited
to her own doll, and all can then proceed with the folding and shaping simul-
taneously. All the dolls' garments described in the book have been made to fit
a doll 16 in. high from head to foot. The width across the shoulders was 4 in.,
size round waist 8f in., length of arm 3 J in., skirt length 5 J in., and measurement
round head, as for a hat, 8 in.
—
X. It will be observed that the lessons, even for the youngest children, involve
simple measurement in inches. It is assumed that the children obtain some
practice in ruling straight lines and in measuring in inches in their Handwork or .
Practical Arithmetic Lessons.

—
XI. For carrying out the scheme of sewing suggested in this book, it will
be found helpful if each child, from Standard I upwards, is supplied with a record
book of her own for needlework diagrams and instructions. For this purpose
the most convenient books are those with alternate pages ruled in squares and
the opposite pages ruled in lines. In her book each girl should enter on the squared
side a dimensioned diagram of each garment or article made, and on the opposite
lined page a description of the method of making, together with a record of the
quantity and cost of material used. This description should be very shortly and
simply worded in the case of the younger children. After the paper pattern of
each garment has been drafted and employed for cutting out the article in material,
it should be secured in the diagram book opposite the description. If each girl
is allowed to carry her book from class to class up the school, she will possess, at
the end of her school course, a very useful collection of patterns and information
for purposes of reference.
—
XII. The cutting-out paper suggested for most purposes is the lined " exten-
sion " paper which is ruled in red lines J of an inch apart ;the direction of the
lines indicates the selvedge way of the material. Each quarter of a yard in width
is usually marked by a thickened or differently-coloured line.
PLAN OF LESSON.
The following general method of procedure is suggested for commencing each
new garment :
(1) Let the girls first examine a made-up article or garment, and discuss
the
kind, qualitv, and cost of the material employed. (Here the Needlework lesson
affords a very real and helpful kind of Practical Arithmetic it is necessary for
;
the girls to note variations in widths of materials and the most economical widths
to purchase for particular sizes and purposes. They should work out for themselves
also the quantity and cost of material needed for the garment.) Let them next
observe the method of making, noting particularly any new stitch introduced.
(2) They may now draw the pattern in their diagram books, entering
dimen-
sions. This drawing should be done after careful measurement by the children
of the size required to fit the child, the doll, the doll's bed, or doll's house, for
which the article is being made. (Rough sketches of the made-up garments, or
of the different parts of the pattern, may usefully precede the accurate drawing
in the record book, and an occasional drawing lesson can well be used for this
purpose.) The girls then enter details as to kind, quantity, and cost of material,,
with the method of making.
14 NEEDLEWORK WITHOUT SPECIMEXS.
(3) Each girl may next draft the pattern on lined paper and cut it out. She
may then pin her paper pattern on to the material, and cut out the article or
garment to be made. (After use, the paper pattern should be secured by each
girl in her record book, for future reference.)
(4) She may now'^ proceed to make up the article, doing all her own fixing.
The teacher should demonstrate new stitches when the need for this arises.
(a) It may be found necessary at this point for the children first to try the
stitches on material left over from the cutting of the garment, or on other waste
material. Such purposeful practising of stitches in their connection with a gar-
ment does not violate the general principle of teaching the stitches through some
concrete whole. For instance, a girl in Standard V may be making a white petti-
coat to fit herself. Most of the work consists in applying stitches already learned
to a garment of more difficult construction, and she proceeds with this satisfac-
torily and carefully until she reaches the button-holes. She has already learned
button-holing as a decorative stitch, but has not tried to produce a button-hole
on calico. This is a difficult operation to work correctly at the first attempt, and
naturally the girl hesitates to spoil all her previous work by making poor button-
holes. She then feels the necessity for trj-ing one or two on waste material first;
in such a case, the abstract exercise is not presented until the girl feels the real
need of it, and realises exactly the purpose for which she is practising the stitch.
{b) In the upper standards (V-VII), all work possible should be done by
machining, in order to avoid waste of time in sewing long seams and hems by
hand. In the scheme described in this book the use of the sewing-machine has
not been introauced till Standard VI, owing to the fact that few schools are
sufficiently well equipped with machines for the subject to be taught earlier.
(5) \^Tien the garment has been successfully and carefully made, each girl
may he allowed to decorate her ownx with simple embroidery from her own design.
The teacher has here a great opportunity of inculcating good taste, and training
the girls to appreciate the beauty of refined trimmings in preference to cheap or
coarse laces. By such trimmings of stitchery the girl realises how, by her own
handwork, she can beautify and individualise her ov\ti clothing and possessions.
Such decoration, however, should be allowed only when a girl has made her gar-
ment satisfactorily. It should be shaped and made as beautifully as possible
without decoration, and the girls should feel that good foundation work in a garment
is even better than beauty on it.
In the preparation of their designs, good examples should be placed before the
girls, if possible, for the purpose of stimulation rather than of direct imitation.
The dramng of designs for needlework garments may well be done in the draw-
ing lesson ; the se\\'ing of the girls will in this way be utilised to give life and
purpose to their drawing, and so the two subjects become mutually helpful.
—
[N.B. Adapting bought patterns should be taught in the upper standards.
If, as suggested throughout the course, the girls have been taught to test every
pattern dealt -with, and to adapt it, if necessary, to the measurements of the
intended wearer, little dif&culty will be experienced in dealing with the adapting
of bought patterns.]
Girls should be taught to group garments according to their similarity in shape
and methods of cutting out ; e.g., let them observe that the camisole is similar
in shape to the top of the combinations ; that the sleeves of the nightdress,
blouse, and girl's dress are similar; and that petticoat and skirt patterns can be
adapted each to cutting the other.
—
REPAIRING LESSONS. 15
REPAIRING LESSONS.
These, as stated in the Preface, should form part of the systematic instruction
from Standard I upwards. A descriptive list of suitable lessons in mending for
children of each age will be found at the end of the syllabus for each class.
It may frequently be found of practical value in mending lessons to depart
somewhat from standard methods. The originality of the girls is trained by
de\'ising methods of dealing with the wide variety of repairs often presented in a
mending lesson, and herein lies the chief educational value of such lessons. For
example, if a girl thinks it will be quicker and more effective to mend a rent by
seA^'ing it do\vn on to a piece of tape than by darning or patching, she should be
encouraged to test the method. Tape is indeed useful for mending in a variety
of ways, which are described in detail under the repairing lessons of the various
classes.
Again, frequently easier, when mending a garment, to hem a calico patch
it is
on than to oversew it on the right side in the generally-accepted method.
both sides
It will be found a helpful plan in connection with the repairing lessons to pro-
^^de each se\\4ng class in a school with a mending basket of its own, in which may
be kept a collection of pieces of material suitable for mending (some brought by
the and others supplied by the school), e.g., old linen, calico, flannel, print
girls
and lining for patching; buckram and wire for millinery; white, coloured, and
black cotton, odd pieces of lace, buttons of all sizes and descriptions, hooks and
eyes, press-studs, tape (white, black, and unbleached), wool for darning, etc.
The hooks and eyes may be slipped on safety pins, black on black, and white on
white, and the pins secured to the lining of the work-basket. This plan prevents
the hooks and eyes from locking together. Educational training is afforded by
allowing the girls to select from this varied collection the most suitable materials
for their purpose.
The materials brought for patching are better for practical purposes if not
new, as the strain on old fabric, when patched with new material, often produces
a further tear.
The \\Titers have found that the plan of supplying to the children at the cost
of the school, hooks and eyes, press-studs, buttons, etc., has to a great extent
overcome the difficulty, even in poor districts, of getting all children to bring gar-
ments for repairs. This ever-present difficulty may also be met to some extent
by sending the girls to examine the pinafores, hats, and coats of children in other
classes, and allowing them to carry out any repairs these may need. School
towels, dusters, and overcoats from the cloak-room can all be requisitioned for
the sewing on of tape loops, etc. In lower standards, when other mending is not
available, dolls' garments may be used for sewing on buttons, mending hems,
etc.
There are many methods of approaching mending lessons, and some of the
most satisfactory of these are briefly outlined below
(1) The lesson may be limited to one point only, viz., sewing on of buttons,
or se\ving on hooks and eyes, or patching, etc. The teacher then demonstrates
to the class the correct method of carrying out the process to be dealt with for
;
this step the help of blackboard diagrams is advisable, and in cases where actual
buttons, hooks and eyes, etc., are employed by the teacher, she should use the
very largest specimens obtainable. She next supplies the class from the mending
2— (815c)
—
16 NEEDLEWORK WIl HOLT SPECIMENS.
basket with any necessaries with uhicli they have come unprovided, and the
children commence work.
This plan is excellent when it can be followed, as each detail of mending receives
due attention in turn, and is taught to all the children. It also minimises the
teacher's difficulties of supervision.
It will rarely be found possible, however, except perhaps in the case of sewing
on buttons, to get all children in the class to bring the same typo of mending, or
to supply it to them from elsewhere.
(2) Another plan is to encourage all children to bring from home garments
needing any type of repairing (with the proviso that such garments must be per-
fectly clean). Each girl is next supplied with what she needs from the mending
basket, and commences her work. The teacher then calls the attention of the
whole class from time to time to the demonstration of new or special points which
crop up. The closest supervision is necessary. It will sometimes be found
advisable to let the girls finish at home repairs which have been commenced at
school.
(3) A useful departure in the mending lesson is to inspect all garments, or to
let each girl inspect her neighbour's garments, at the commencement of each
lesson, and to see that any defects are remedied either during the lesson or before
the next sewing lesson. This plan is very helpful from the point of view of
encouraging self-respect.
Suggestions with regard to the use of the sewing machine in connection with
lessons on adapting and repairing are given under the mending lessons of the two
top classes.
EMBROIDERY SILKS AND COTTONS OF BRITISH MANUFACTURE.

A descriptive list is given below of embroidery silks and threads manu-
factured by leading British firms. Included in this list are pure silk threads,
flax threads, and threads composed of a mixture of cotton and silk, or of cotton
only. Owdng to their high price, the pure silk threads are not suitable for general
school purposes, but may be effectively used in individual cases where girls purchase
their own decorative materials. For class use, the cheaper makes are recom-
mended, and the prices of embroidery threads quoted throughout the book allow
for the use of these only. The list of threads given below is by no means a com-
plete catalogue of the varieties manufactured by certain makers, some of the
makes having been omitted as unsuitable for school purposes. Further information
can alwa^^s be obtained by applving to the firms direct, or to their local agents. The
prices quoted below will be found to vary locally, and to fluctuate also wdth the
state of the market. Many retail firms are willing to quote lower prices to schools
ordering in considerable quantities. All makes can be obtained in a variety of
shades, except where otherwise stated. These dyes are fast colours, and will
bear wâshing with pure soap and warm water. Boiling should be avoided.
LEADING TYPES OF EMBROIDERY THREADS.

The embroidery threads manufactured by most makers can be classified under
the following types
Section A. Pure Silk Threads.
(1)
" —
Floss " Embroidery Silk. This is a rather loosely twisted silk, with a
very glossy appearance, and of a useful medium thickness.
SILKS AND COTTONS OF BRITISH MANUFACTURE. 17
(2) " Twisted " Crewel " Silk.

" or —
This is a closely twisted silk, which
works easily and inclined to " rub up " at the surface than a " Floss " silk.
is less
It is therefore suitable where a firn:i edge is required, as for example in scalloping.
(3)
" FiLO Floss." —
This is a very fine silk thread, the skeins of which are
arranged in loose twists, which can readily be separated into the fine strands.
It is thus possible to work with 1, 2, 3, or any suitable number of strands in the
needle at once, according to the thickness desired. This arrangement is, therefore,
both useful and economical.
Section B. Artificial Silk Threads.
These are manufactured from vegetable fibre, and have a very brilliant finish.
Thev are, however, rather brittle, and require careful washing they should on no ;
account be wrung.
The skeins are usually prepared in similar types to the pure silks described above.
Section C. Mercerised Cotton Threads.
These threads are cheaper and more generally useful for school purposes than
the pure silks.
(1) Balls of Twisted Mercerised Embroidery Thread. This class of —
thread has usually a firm silky finish, and is prepared by several manufacturers,
generally in 3 sizes according to thickness, and in a large variety of colours. It is
ver}' useful for embroidering on firm material, or for stitchery on Java Cloth or
Canvas.
(2) Filoselle. —
This type is a fine mercerised thread, the skeins of which are
arranged in loose twists, which can readily be subdivided into separate strands.
It is thus possible to work with 1, 2, 3, or any suitable number of strands in the
needle at once, according to the thickness desired. This arrangement is, therefore,
both useful and economical.
(3) Skeins of Coloured Mercerised Embroidery Thread. ^This make of ^ —
thread is of general utility for embroidery purposes and fancy stitches. It is
economical in use.
(4) Skeins of White Mercerised Embroidery Thread. This make of —
thread is usually onlv slightly twisted, and is prepared in a large variety of sizes,
being useful for everv type of white embroidery.
Section D. Flax Threads.
These are usually prepared in skeins which are described in detail under the
productions of J. Harris & Co. below, and under Liberty's " Otis " Thread.
Maker or Description.
Dealer.
Messrs. \Vin. ' Court " Em- l^d. per skein, or This is a floss embroidery silk
Briggs & Co.,, broidery Silk. 1/5 per doz. of the make described under (1),
Ltd., 34 Can- skeins. Section A above. This, and all
non St., Man- Briggs's embroidery threads, are
chester. produced in fast-boiling colours of
every imaginable shade.
County IJd. per skein, or This is a twisted or crewel

Crewel Silk. 1/5 per doz. silk. See under (2), Section A
skeins. above.
US NEEDLEWORK WITHOUT SPKCl.MENS.
Price. Description.
Messrs. Wm. '

H e d e 1) o " 2d. per hall. A make of embroidery thread
Briggs & Co., Pearl. described under (1), Section C
Ltd., 34 Can- above.
non St., Man-
chester. '
H e d c b o " h\. per skein. A very cheap Filoselle, of the make
Filoselle. described under (2), Section C
above.
" H e d e b o " Id. per .skein, or This is a firm, closely twisted silky
Embroidery lOJd. per doz. thread, made only in white. It is
Thread. , skeins. iheap, and of excellent quality,
being suitable for embroidery on
cotton or linen materials.
The Central Clark's Anchor Id. per skein. This make of embroidery thread
Agency, Ltd., " C o t o n a , !
is described under (3), Section C
Glasgow. Broder." above. It is produced in white
and a large variety of washing
shades. No. 18 in this make is a
medium size most suital>le for
school purposes.
Clark's Stran- Id. per skein. An embroidery cotton of the

ded Cotton. Filoselle type. As can easily be
it
subdivided, it is made in one size
only. See (2), Section C above.
Clark's Floss 2d. per skein. A class of embroidery
white
Embroidery I
cotton described above under (4)
Cotton. I
of Section C. No. 14 is a useful
! medium size. Higher numbers
than this are finer in make and
lower numbers thicker.
Clark's " Filo- Id. per ball, This is a mercerised thread of the
sheen." Filoselle type, made in one size
only (as can readily be sub-
it
divided), and in a variety of
washing shades. It is packed in
balls, and is useful for embroidery
and darning purposes.
Clark's " Fil 5d. to 7d. perball. This comes under Class (1) of
d'Ecosse." Section C, but is made in white
only, and in various sizes. No. 15
is a useful thickness for school
embroidery purposes.
^L\KER OR
Name. Price. Description.
Dealer.
The Central Coats's "Colon Id. per skein. This make of cotton is described
Agency, Ltd., Floche a Bro- above under (4) of Section C.
Glasgow. der." No. 8 is a useful medium size,
higher numbers than this being
finer in make and lower numbers
thicker.
The English Ardern 's Star 2d. per ball, or A class of silky embroidery cotton,
Sewing Cotton Svlko." 1/10 per doz. described under (1) of Section C
Co., Ltd., Man- balls. above. It is made in sizes 5, 8, and
chester. 12, No. 5 being the coarsest in
make and 12 the finest.
Ardern 's " Ha- 2d. per ball, or This is similar in make to "Star
zel " Embroi- 1/10 per doz. Sylko," but is stouter in size.
dery. balls.
Ardern's "Grove 2d. per ball, or This is a mercerised thread of the

Lustre." 1/10 per doz. Filoselle type, being readily divi-
balls. ded up into the required number
of threads for fine work. It is
packed in balls.
B a g 1 e y & 2d. per ball, or This is similar in make and thick-

Wright's 1/10 per doz. ness to Ardern's No. 5 "Star Sylko."
" Bright-Eve." balls. There is a finer make produced,
known as " Gem Bright-Eye."
Messrs. Vicars " BriUiante. Id. per skein. This is a twisted artificial silk thread
& Poirson , with a lustrous finish. Artificial
Ltd., 5 New- silks are described under Section B
gate St., Lon- above.
don, E.C.
"Lustrine" Filo. Id. per skein. A very cheap mercerised cotton of
the Filoselle type.
Twisted " Lus- Id. per skein. This is a type of mercerised embroi-
trine.' dery thread described under (3)
of Section C above.
Lustrine 2d. per ball. This class of embroidery thread is
Prisma." described under (1), Section C

above.
"
Lustrine Id. per ball. A very cheap mercerised thread,
Crochet. similar in make to " Lustrine
Prisma," but finer and less silky
in finish.
'
20 XEKDLEWDRK WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Maker or Name. Price. Description.

Dealer.
Messrs. J. May- '

Duchesse lid. per skein, or. This is a floss embroidery silk of
grove & Co., Cable Floss. more cheaply, in excellent <iuality. See (1), Section
Ltd., 51 & 52 i oz. packets, A above.
Alder sg ate each comprising
St., London, 16 skeins.
E.C.
Twisted Em- Do. do. .\ crewel silk of good quality. See
broidery Silk. under (2), Section A above.
Flannel E ni - Id. per skein, but A twisted silk, made in white

Iiroidery Silk. cheaper if bought and cream only. As its name
by the gro.ss. implies, it is especially suitable for
working on Hannel, and forms a
edge for .scalloping.
rtrrn
Filoselle. Id. per skein, but A very cheap mercerised Filoselle.

cheaper if or-
dered by the
gross.
Messrs. J. Pear- Mallard I Id. per skein, or A well-known rtoss silk. See (1),
sail & Co., 71- Floss. l/4i per doz. Section A above,
74 Little Bri- skeins.
tain, London,
E.C. Filo Floss. 2d. per skein, or This useful make is described under
l/8i per doz. (3), Section A above,
skeins.
'
Pamela Id. per skein, or A cheap twisted or crewel silk,
Crewel Silk. 10|d. per doz. described under (2), Section A
skeins. above.
Fibreena. Id. per skein. This is similar in make to Pearsall's

Filo Floss, but is an artificial silk.
See Section B above.
Filoselle. H-d. per skein, or A Filoselle of excellent quality.

I/4i per doz.
Messrs. Liberty Embroidery Hd. per skein, or- A floss embroidery silk of excellent
Co., East Floss. I 4i per doz. quaUty. This, and all Liberty's
India House, skeins. threads and silks, can be obtained
Regent St., in a very large variety,- of washing
London, W. shades. The tones and tints are
reproductions of the colours used
in the finest and most notable
examples of ancient embroidery,
^lost of the shades ^îll bear
exposure to light without fading.
Maker or Price. Description.

Dealer.
Messrs. Liberty Twisted Silk. lid. per skein, or This is a twisted or crewel silk.
& Co., East i/4^ per doz. ,
India House, |
skeins.
Regent Street, |
London, W. File Floss. Do. do. A description of this tj-pe of silk

is given under (3), Section A above.
"
'
Otis Linen Id. per skein. This is a flax thread, made in all
Thread. shades, and suitable for embroi-
dering linen and cotton materials.
Lister & Co., '

Tenax Floss Hd. per skein, or A floss embroidery silk, verj- reason-
Manningham Silk. two for 2W. able in price.
Mills, Brad-
ord. '
Tena.x: Filo Do. do. !
A description of Filo Floss is given
Floss. under (3), Section A above.
'
Stag " Em- 2|d. per ball. This isa substantial, closely- twisted
broidery Silk. silk, sold in balls and useful for
embroidery on firm material or on
canvas.
'
Sylvan " Em- Id. per .skein. This is an artificial silk thread,
broiderj- similar to those described under
(Medium). Section B above.
'
Sylvan Id. per skein. The skeins of this silk are arranged
Filo. similarly to the " Tenax " Filo
Floss described above, but consist
of artificial silk.
J. Harris & Co., "Cumbrian" IJd. per skein, or A floss silk of good quality.
Ltd., Derwcnt Embroidery l/4i per doz.
Mills, Cocker- Silk.
mouth, Cum
berland. Pure Flax Id. per skein, or This is made in white and a very
Embroidery lOd. per doz. wide range of washing shades. In
Thread. skeins, or 9/6 washing, however, it is necessary
per gross. to avoid boiling water and wring-
ing. The white thread is made in
15 different sizes Rope, B, C, D,
:
etc., to O, the " Rope

" being very
coarse,and the thickness of the
thread diminishing regularly from
B to O. The coloured threads are
made two thicknesses, viz.,
in
C and E, the sizes corresponding
with the C and E sizes of the white
thread.
22 NEEDLEWORK WITHOLT SPECIMENS.
DOLL'S BEDSTEAD MADE OF CARDBOARD.

All the doll's bed-clothes described under the Standard I Syllabus have been
made to fit a bedstead 7^long and 5i- in. wide.
in.
Figs. 1(a). \{b). and 1(c) show the sections of a bedstead of these dimensions,
such as can be easily made in school by the boys of Standard IV. Either thick or
thin card is suitable for its construction.
In the case of a mixed school, it is a good plan to let the boys in the higher
classes make bedsteads for Standard I girls in th<-ir handwork lessons. The boys
are thus provided with an educational handwork exercise to serve a useful social
Fig. 1(a). Base of Doll's Bedstead made of Cardboard.

DOLL'S BEDSTEAD MADE OF CARDBOARD. 23
purpose, and each little girl mil take a great pride in making the clothes to fit
her own bedstead.
Construction of Bedstead. —
Fig. 1(a) shows the base of the bedstead, made after
a simple box type, the dotted lines representing half-cuts. After these have been
made and the shaded portions at the sides cut away, both sides and ends can be
c.
Head o ~ Bed '
2i
Fig. l{b). Head of Doll's Bedstead made of Cardboard.
turned down. Secure together the corners AD, DE ; EG, GJ MH,

; HK ; and LC,
CB. [See Fig. 1 {a). ] If thick card is employed, corners may be joined by binding
A\-ith strips of paper. If thin card is used, flanges about J in. wide should be left
for securing the corners. Seccotine is the best adhesive to employ for the purpose.
Figs. \(b) and 1(c) show the head and foot of the bedstead. The shaded portions
\\ill be cut out to represent railings. The section ABCD in Fig. 1(6) will be secured
Fig. l{c). Foot of Doll's Bedstead made of Cardboard.

flat against the turned-down top end of the bedstead [ABCD in Fig. l{a) ]. and the
sectionJKHG in Fig. 1(c) will be attached to the bottom end [JKHG of Fig. l(rt) ].
Fig. 2 shows the completed model.
Fig. 2. Completed Doll's Bedstead.

STANDARD I.
Children of 7 to 8 Years of Age.
I. SMALL NEEDLEBOOK FOR CHILD'S OWN USE.

Running on canvas introduced for the decoration of the needlebook.
Running also employed for fastening in the flannel for needles.
Materials —
Employed for One Needlebook. A piece of single or double-thread
canvas 4 in. by 6 in. A piece of flannel 3 in. by 5 in. Embroiden* cotton in tAvo
colours. (See section on " Embroiderv- Cottons and Silks " in General Instructions.)
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Class of 50. —

IJ yds. of canvas, 26 in. wide,
at 6d. per yd. = 9d. 1 yd. flannel, 24 in. ^\•ide, at SJd. per yd. = 8-J-d. Coloured
embroiders' cotton = 4d. Total cost = Is. 9W., or a little less than id. each.
Drafting and Cutting Out.

{a) Diagram. —
Let each child make ruler drawings of the two sections of the
needlebook Tigs. 3{a) and 3{b) \ on a squared page of her diagram book, at the
same time entering dimensions. (Detailed suggestions are given above in the
General Instructions on the use of the diagram or record book and entries therein.)
Explain to children that the dotted lines represent the folds down the centre back
of the cover and of the flannel.
t-- b -- ->
n-
CA Ni V A S 1 6 C o V e: R
' o
.V
Fig. 3(a). Small Needlebook for Fig. 3(6). Small Needlebook,

Child's own use. Inside View.
(b) Cutting out in Paper. —

Supply each child with a piece of cutting-out
paper rather larger than the actual size required for the cutting out of the two
sections. On this paper let her make the necessary measurements, rule the lines,
and then cut out the two pieces of the required size. (It is here assumed that
—
26 NEEDLEWORK WlTHori SI'I'CIMEXS.
the children have learned how to measure in inches and to rule slrai^dit lines in
their Practical Arithmetic or Handwork lessons.)
(c)
—
Cutting Out in Material. (1) If children bring their own materials tor
the needlebook, let them now pin each section of the pattern on to its own
material
and cut out the two portions of the article. Show them how to place the 3-in.
edge of the pattern of the flannel along the selvedge way of the material. Teach
children to test for the selvedge way by
pulling the flannel in order to ascertain in
which direction it offers the greatest resist-
ance to the stretching.
(2) Ifschool material is employed, it will
probably be necessary for purposes of
economy for the teacher to supply the
children with pieces of material of the exact
size required, instead of allowing them a
small margin to cut away. In such a case,
the amount of actual practice in cutting-out
will be limited to cutting out in paper only.
For this reason children should be encour-
aged to bring their own materials for small
articles, so as to obtain practice in pinning
on a paper pattern and cutting out in
material.
Instructions for Makings

(a) Decoration of Cover. —
Double the
canvas into book form, thus producing the
fold down the centre of the back which is
Fig. 3(c) .
Needlebook indicated in Fig. 3(a) by a dotted line.
Child's own use. Decorate the front half of the cover by
running on it with one or more colours of
embroidery cotton. Some simple straight pattern, such as that shown in Fig.
3(c), may be employed. The outline should be kept some distance from the edges,
which will be afterwards frayed out to form a suitable finish.
{b) Insertion of Flannel. —
Make a fold down the centre of the flannel to
coincide with the fold in the canvas. Now open out both the canvas cover and
the flannel, and place the fold in the flannel exactlv over the fold in the canvas ;
this should project a little beyond the flannel at sides, top, and bottom. Run
the flannel securely to the cover down this fold to comolete the needlebook.
2. QUILT FOR DOLL'S BED.

Running used on single coarse material to form a design on the quilt.
Materials Employed for One Quilt.— -A piece of soft, loosely- woven material,
such as Saxon}- cloth or oatmeal cloth, measuring 10 in. by 7i in. This will pro-
vide a quilt of the correct size to fit a bed 7i in. by SJ in., such as that described
above. Embroidery cotton in two colours. (See section on " Embroidery Cottons
and Silks " in General Instritctions.)
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Class of 50. —3| yds. of Saxonv cloth, 30 in.
OUILT FOR DOLL'S BED. 27
wide, at 7^d. per yd. = 2s. 4Jd. Coloured embroidery cotton = 6d. Total cost
= 2s. 10 jd., or a little more than id. each.
{a) Diagram. —
Let each child make a ruler drawing of the quilt [Fig. 4(a)] in
her diagram book, at the same time entering dimensions. (If the doll's bed
employed is of a different size from the one above described, vary the dimensions
of the quilt proportionately, making any necessary alterations in the diagram.)
[b) Cutting out in Paper. Supply —
each child with a piece of cutting-out _ _ „
paper rather larger than the actual size re-

quired for the pattern of the quilt. On this
paper let her make the necessary measure-
ments, rule in the lines, and then cut out
the pattern.
(c) Cutting out in Material. (1) If —
children bring their own material for the
quilt, let them pin their patterns on to the
material and cut out the quilts. Show them
how to place the 10-in. edge of the pattern
along the selvedge way of the material.
Teach children to test for the selvedge way
by pulling the material to ascertain in which Fig. 4 (a).
direction it offers the greatest resistance to Ouilt for Doll's Bed.
the stretching. "^
(2) For cutting out the quilt in school material, see above under Needlebook.
^^^L -
\
W^ r ', '
^
^^^s 1
I ^?
B ; j
'
(
t 3>-
l|
1
'"'*'. 1
i
1
'n I
--,^;
'*' 1 <S
1
•
g
^^^g 1
;
^"^
H*^; '
1
^
^^Bb ! S
; s
j
^^Êf.ii
BHHil iH ,
Fig. 4{b). Completed Quilt for Doll's Bed.

28 N'EEDLi:\V()KK WllHUUT SPECI.MIIN'S.
Instructions for Making.

{a) Decoration. —
I'irst run on the quilt a border design in straif^ht lines,
using coloured embroidery cotton. Next work a design in running in the centre
of the quilt. The one shown in Fig. 4(b) was produced as follows. Fold the quilt
into halves each wav and crease the folds open out and fold next along the
;
diagonals of the rectangle, creasing these also. Again open out, and measure
from the centre point 2 in. along each of the creases, marking these measurements
by dots. Run along the eight lines as far as the dots to produce a star.
(b) Edges of Quilt. —
Fray out the edges of the quilt for a distance in of
about i in.
3. DOLL'S PERAMBULATOR COVER.

Running togethick oi" two eugics, .\nu aljô klxmng down hems introduced.
—
Materials Employed for One Cover. Two strips of sateen each 10 in. bj' 3 in.
of the same colour, and a third strip also measuring 10 in. by 3 in. of a contrasting
colour. White or coloured sewing cotton.
—
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Class of .">(>. 2 yds. 28 in. of sateen, 30 in.
wide, at 6|d. per yd. = h 1 vd. 14 in. of sateen, 30 in. wide, contrasting in
colour, at 6|d. per yd. = 9.\d. 1 reels of white or coloured sewing cotton
.} l^d. =
Total cost = 2s. fid., or a little more than Jd.
each.

[a) l)i.\GRAM. — Let each child make a ruler
drawing of Fig. 5 in her record book, at the
same time entering dimensions. (Vary the size
of the cover according to the size of the
perambulator to be fitted.)
[b) Cutting out in Paper. —
The pattern
of one strip of the cover only will be needed.
Supplv each child, therefore, with a piece of
cutting-out paper rather larger than is necessary
for the cutting out of one strip. On this paper
let her make the necessary measurements, rule
in the lines, and then cut out the pattern.
[c) Cutting out in Material. See —
instructions regarding the doll's quilt.
Fig. 5. Doll's Instructions for Making.
Perambulator Cover.
—
^Take two strips of contrasting
Seams.
place them with their right sides
colours,
facing each other, and run them together at a distance in from the raw edges
of nearly J in. Take the third strip, place it next to the strip contrasting with it
in colour, again letting right sides face, and run this second pair of edges together,
as in the case of the first pair. The two outside strips ^\'ill then be alike in colour,
while the strip of contrasting colour will lie betAveen them. Flatten down the
seams, and straighten the outside edges of the cover if necessary.
FIRST SHEET FOR DOLL'S BED. 29
—
Hem. -Turn down a fold along each of the selvedge sides |- in. in depth. Then
place similar folds along the shorter ends of the cover. Next, turn down a second
fold J in. in depth along each of the long sides, and then along each of the shorter
ends. Crease these folds very firmly, and tack them into position. Secure the
hems by running, taldng great care that the stitches go through aU thicknesses.
4. FIRST SHEET FOR DOLL'S BED.

Second exercise ix ruxxing down hems.
Materials Employed for One Sheet.Â piece of soft, loosely-woven calico, 10 in.
bv 8 in.Coloured sewing cotton.
31 yds. of calico, 36 in. wide, at 3|d. per yd. =
Is. I^d. 1 reel coloured sewing cotton = Id.
Total cost = Is. 2^., or not much more than
Jd. each.

(a) DiAGR.\M. — Let each child make a ruler
drawing of the sheet (Fig. 6) in her diagram book,
at the same time entering dimensions. (Vary the
size of the sheet if a bed of a different size from
the one described is employed.)
(b) CuTTixG OUT IN Paper. —
See instructions
regarding the doll's quilt above.
(c) Cutting out in M.aterial. —See instruc-
tions concerning the doll's quilt.
Instructions for Making. Fig. 6.

Turn down a fold along each of the selvedge
Sheet for Doll's Bed.
sides I" in. in depth. Then place similar folds
along the shorter ends of the sheet. Next turn down a second fold J in. in
depth along each of the long sides, and then along each of the shorter ends.
Crease these folds very firmly and tack them into position. Secure these hems by
running, taking great care that the stitches go through all thicknesses.
5. PINCUSHION FOR CHILD'S OWN USE.
Oversewing stitch on the flat introduced for decorating the cushion,

AND oversewing OF TWO EDGES TOGETHER FOR MAKING IT UP.
Materials Employed for One Pincushion. —
Two squares of double or single-
thread canvas, each measuring 4 in. by 4 in. Embroidery cotton. (See section
on " Embroidery Cottons and Silks " in General Instructions.)
2 yds. of canvas, 26 in. wide,
at 6d. per yd. = Is. Coloured embroidery cotton = 5d. Total cost = Is. 5d.,
or less than |d. each.
80 NEKDLEWORK WmiOl'T SPECIMENS.

(fl) Diagram. —
Let eacli child enter a diagram of one portion of ilie cover in
her record book, showing dimensions.
{b) Cutting out in Paper. —
The pattern of one portion of the cover only
will be needed, and a piece of paper should
be supplied to each child of a sufficient size
for cutting this. Let her rule the pattern
on this jjaper, and then cut it out.
(c) Cutting out in Material.— See
instructions for the doll's quilt. As at
this stage the children are not sufficiently
advanced to cut out in double material, let
them cut out each half of the pincushion-
cover separately.

—
Decoration. Decorate the square which
is form the top of the pincushion by
to
oversewing stitches worked on the flat, in
the manner shown in Fig. 7. This will
teach the children the method of in.serting
the needle for oversewing, and also the
correct slope of the stitch.
Fig. 7. Pincushion for Making up of Cushion. —Turn down
a single fold J in. deep round both squares.
own use.
Child's
Place the two squares with the turned-
down edges facing each other, and over-
sew them together along three sides. Stuff the cushion- cover with odd
ravellings, cuttings, frayings, bran, or chaff, and then sew up the remaining side.
6. BLANKET FOR DOLL'S BED.

Oversewing on single edge of flannel in imitation of blanket stitch.
Revision of running stitch to represent coloured stripes on
blanket.
Materials Employed for One Blanket. —
A piece- of flannel measuring 9 in. by
7 in. Embroidery cotton of three different colours. {See section on " Embroidery
Cottons and Silks " in General Instructions.)
—
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Class of oO. About 4| yds. of flannel, 24 in.
wide, at Sid. per yd. = 3s. OJd. Embroidery cotton of three colours = 6d.
Total cost = 3s. SJd., or a little less than Id. each.

(a) —
Diagram. Let each girl enter a diagram in her record book, showing the
size of the blanket. Vary the size of the blanket if a bed of a different size from
the one described above is emplo^-ed.
{b) Cutting out in Paper. ^Supply each child with a piece of cutting-out
MAKING UP OF KNITTED GARMENTS BY OVERSEWING. 31
paper rather larger than is necessary for cutting out the pattern of the blanket.
Let her rule the pattern on this paper, and then cut it out.
(c) —
Cutting out in INIaterial. See instructions for the doll's quilt.
D.V\\\\\V\uu\\\"u\"r!^
^\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\r1
Fig. 8. Blanket for Doll's Bed.

Oversewing. —Oversew with embroidery cotton right round the single edge
of the flannel.
Running. —Now work three rows of running, each of a different colour (e.g.,
red, blue, green), at each end of the flannel to represent the coloured stripes at
the ends of a blanket. (S;e Fig. 8.)
7. MAKING UP OF KNITTED GARMENTS BY OVERSEWING.

Useful .application of oversewing stitch.
Various small articles knitted in the lower standards require joining together
by oversewing. Examples of such articles are the iron-holder, child's purse,
doll's shpper, etc., which are described with instructions for making in the Authors'
Knitting witficynt " Specimens " (Pitman), the companion book to this work.
8. PILLOW FOR DOLL'S BED.

To teach oversewing on calico.
Materials Employed for One Pillow, A piece — of soft, loosely- woven calico,
4 in. square. White or coloured sewing cotton.
Qviantity
4d. per yd.
and Cost of Materials for Class of 50.
= 3d. 1 reel of sewing cotton = Id.
—Total
| yd. of calico,
cost =
36
4d.
in. wide, at

(a) Diagram. —
^Let each child enter a diagram of the pillow-case (Fig. 9) in
her record book, showing dimensions. (Vary the size of the pillow-case, if a bed
of a different size from the one described is employed.)
(b) Cutting out in Paper and Material. —
See instructions above for the
doll's quilt.
3—<8i5c)
First ascertain which is the selvedge way of the material by pulling the calico
in order to discover in which direction it offers the greatest resistance to the stretch-
ing. Turn down narrow single folds first along the selvedge sides, and then along
.&"-
P"o u O.
!iii-
Figs. 9 and 10. Pillow and Bolster for Doll's Bed.
the remaining edges. Next double the square so that the two selvedge edges lie
one upon the other. Tack together these edges and also those of one short end,
afterwards oversewing them. Pad the pillow by inserting at the open end ravell-
ings, frayings, small cuttings, or feathers. Tack the remaining edges together,
and oversew along.
9. BOLSTER FOR DOLLS BED.

Second exercise in oversewing on calico.
Materials —
Employed for One Bolster. A piece of soft, loosely-woven calico
measuring 6 by 3.V in. White or coloured sewing cotton.
in.
—
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Class of 50. 30 in. of calico, 36 in. wide, at
4d. per yd. = 3i-d. 1 reel of sewing cotton = Id. Total cost = 4|d.

See instructions above for the cutting out of the pillow-case. When pinning
the paper pattern on the material, see that the 6-in. measurement lies along the
selvedge way (see Fig. 10).

Make up and pad the bolster by the same method as that employed for the
pillow. Be careful in this case to double the calico so that the two long selvedge
edges meet.
10. MATTRESS FOR DOLL'S BED.

Third exercise in oversewing on calico or drill.
Materials Employed for One Mattress. —
Two pieces of calico, each measuring
8 in. by 6 in. Striped drill or galatea to represent ticking may be used in prefer-
ence, as this will enable the children to imitate more exactly the appearance oi
a full-sized mattress. WTiite or coloured sewing cotton.
4 yds. of calico, 36 in. wide, at
-
BOOK-MARKER FOR CHILD'S OWN USE. 33
4d. per yd. = Is. 4d. 1 reel of sewing cotton = Id. Total cost = Is. 5d., or a
little more than Jd. each ;
OR
4| yds. of striped drill or galatea at 6|d. per yd. = 2s. 6Jd. 1 reel of sewing cotton
= Id. Total cost- = 2s. 7id., or a little more than |d. each.

(a) Diagram. —
Let each child enter a diagram of «
'^
6" -
one portion only of the mattress-cover in her record

book, showing dimensions (see Fig. 11). Vary the
size of the mattress if a bed of a different size from the
one described is employed. Que HûF
(&) Cutting out ix Paper. —
The pattern of one
Or M»>TT REss Cover.
half only of the mattress will be needed, and a piece 5"
of paper should be supplied to each child of sufficient

size for cutting this. Let her rule the pattern on this
paper, and then cut it out.
(c) Cutting out in Material. See instructions —
above for the doll's quilt. As at this stage the children
are not sufficiently advanced to cut out in double
material, let them cut out each half of the mattress- p^^ jj Mattress
cover separately. ^^^ Doll's Bed.
Turn down single narrow folds round the edges of both rectangles, in each case
dealing u-ith the selvedge sides first. Place the two rectangles with the turned
do\\'n edges facing each other, and oversew them together along three sides. Pad
the mattress with ravellings, horsehair, straw, odd cuttings, flocks, or chaff, and
then sew up the fourth side.
II. BOOK-MARKER FOR CHILD'S OWN USE.
Hemming stitch on canvas taught to decorate book-marker. Further

practice in oversewing.
—
Materials Employed for One Book-marker. A strip of single or double-thread
canvas measuring 9 in. by 2 in. A strip of coloured sateen measuring 8 in. by
2 in. Coloured embroidery cotton. (See section on " Embroidery Cottons and
Silks " in General Instructions.)
1 yd. of canvas, 26 in. wide,
at 6d. per yd. 6d. = 32 in. of sateen, 30 in. wide, at 6-|d. per yd. 6d. =
Embroidery cotton 4d. =
Total cost =
Is. 4d., or a little more than |d. each.

ia) Diagram. —
^Let each girl enter diagrams of the two portions in her record
book, showing the size of each.
paper rather larger than is necessary for the cutting out of the two sections. On
this paper let her make the necessary measurements, rule the lines, and then cut
out the two pieces of the required size.
34 NEEDLEWOlUv WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
(c) —
Cutting out in Material. See instruction for the needlebook on page
25. In this case, however, the strips of both canvas and sateen should be cut
so that the long edges lie along the selvedge way of the material.

—
Decoration. Decorate the strip of canvas which is to form the top half of
the bojk-marker by hemming stitches worked on the flat in the manner shown
in p'ig. 12. This will teach the children the method ot inserting the needle for
hemming, and also the correct slope of the stitch.
Fig. 12. Book-marker for Child's own use.
Lining of Marker.—Turn down a single fold J in. in depth all round the
strip of sateen and along the two long sides of the strip of canvas. Place the
strips of canvas and sateen with the tnrned-down edges facing each other, leaving
an equal length of canvas projecting at each end of the sateen. (These projecting
ends wUbe about |- in. in length.) Tack the sateen into position on the canvas,
and oversew together the two long edges of both. Run the two short edges of the
sateen firmly down on to the canvas below them.
—
Ends of Marker. Lastly, fray out the projecting ends of the canvas to
form fringes.
12. DOLL'S TABLE-CLOTH.

Hemming on turned-down edge introduced, Revision of running stitch
for design.
Materials Employed for One Table-cloth. — A piece of soft material measuring
7 in. by 6 in.: loosely- woven casement cloth, sateen, and fine Saxony cloth are
suitable materials for the purpose. White or coloured sewing cotton, and
embroidery cotton to harmonize or contrast with the colour of the cloth. (See
section on " Embroidery Cottons and Silks " in General Instructions.)
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Class of 50. — IJ yds. of casement cloth,
50 in. wide, at lOd. per yd. = Is. OJd. 1 reel of sewing cotton = Id. Embroidery
cotton of one or more colours = 3d. Total cost = Is. 4Jd., or a httle more than
Jd. each.
. ;
CASEMENT CURTAINS FOR DOLL'S HOUSE. 35

[a) Diagram. —The dimensions above suggested will produce a cloth to fit a
table 5 in. by 4 in., thus allowing 2 in. on both length and breadth for the turning
of hems, and for the overhanging portion of the cloth. In the case of a table of
different size, make the length and width of the cloth each 2 in. greater than the
length and width of the table.
Let each child enter a diagram of the table-cloth in her record book, showing
the dimensions chosen.
: y, f\ '
^''i \A
':^
'
< ;
'\ '
i' '
!
^ '\
y(
,
'
>-. -- -^ - . .,,. - .,^ . . -^ — .^ . . -

'
^
.''!
H C H.
Fig. 13. Doll's Table-cloth, showing Design in Running Stitch.
(b) Cutting out in Paper and in Material. —See instructions given above
In this case, however, the 7
for the doll's quilt. in. edge of the pattern will lis
along the selvedge way of the material.

—
Hems. Turn down a fold | in. in depth, first along each of the long sides of
the cloth, and then along each of the shorter ends. Next turn down a second
fold I in. in depth along all sides, observing the same order of fixing. Tack these
hems into position and hem them down, oversewing up the open corners.
Decoration.—Decorate the corners or the borders of the cloth with a design
in running stitch. An easy design is suggested in Fig. 13. The long lines of
this design might be worked in one shade of embroidery cotton and the zigzag
lines in another.
13. CASEMENT CURTAINS FOR DOLL'S HOUSE.

Second exercise in hemming on turned-down edge. Revision of running
STITCH FOR border DESIGN.
Materials Employed for One Pair of Curtains. ^Two pieces of casement cloth, —
each measuring 5 in. by 3J in. White or coloured sewing cotton, and embroidery
cotton to harmonize or contrast with the colour of the curtains. (See section on
" Embroidery Cottons and Silks " in General Instntctions.)
1 yd. of casement cloth, 50 in.
wide, at lOd. per yd. = lOd. Embroidery cotton = 2d. Sewing cotton = Id.
Total cost = Is. Id., or about ^d. per child.
(a) Diagram. —
Let each child enter a diagram of the pattern of one curtain
in her record book, showing dimensions [see Fig. 14(a) ]. The dimensions above
suggested will produce curtains to fit a window measuring about 3 in. by 3 in.
If the window to be fitted differs from this in size, vary the dimensions of the
curtains proportionately.
(6) Cutting out in Paper. — The pattern of one curtain only will be needed,
and a piece of paper should be supplied to each child of a sufficient size for cutting
this. Let her rule the pattern on this paper and then cut it out.
Fig. 14(a). Casement Curtain for Fig. 14(6). Casement Curtain,

Doll's House. SHOWING Design in Running Stitch.
(c) —
Cutting out in Material. See the instructions in the case of the doll's
quilt. In this case, let the 5-in. measurement lie along the selvedge way of the
material. As at this stage the children are not sufficiently advanced to cut out
in double material, let them cut out each curtain separately.

—
Hems. Turn down hems about ^ in. in depth along the long edges of the
curtains. Make hems at the top and bottom about \ in. deep. Tack all the
hems firmly, and then hem them into position.
—
Decoration. Decorate the long front edges of the curtains by some such
simple design as that shown in Fig. 14(6). The design will be worked in running
stitch, using embroidery cotton.
Guide lines to enable children to produce this design may be drawn on the cur-
tains first with a ruler and lead pencil. Let them draw two vertical parallel
lines down each front edge, and then short horizontal lines at equal distances
SECOND SHEET FOR DOLL'S BED. 37
between these. The children can then pick out the Hnes along which they must
run to produce the pattern shown.
—
Drawing up Curtains. Run narrow tapes or thin wires through the top
hems of the curtains in order to suspend them from the windows.
14. SECOND SHEET FOR DOLL'S BED.

Hemming on finer material employed.
The material employed, the cost, and the method of cutting out will be the
same as that described in the case of first sheet for a doll's bed. In this case,
howe\er, the hems Avill be secured bv hemming stitch instead of running;.
15. HANDKERCHIEF FOR CHILD'S OWN USE.

Further practice in hemming on fine material. Working of child's
INITIALS in running STITCH.
—
Materials Employed for One Handkerchief. A 12-in. square of any suitabh,
fine white material, e.g., cambric, nainsook, or madapoUam. White sewing cotton
and red marking cotton.
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Class of 50 —
6 yds. of cambric, nainsook, or
madapoUam, 40 wide, at 7d. per yd. = 3s. 6d.
in.
1 reel of sewing cotton = Id. 1 reel of marking cotton
" f M
= Id. Total cost = 3s. 8d., or about Id. each.
The drawing of the diagram and the cutting out
in paper and material may be carried out as
described under the heading " Doll's Quilt " on
page 26.

—
Hems. Turn down and tack hems in the same
manner as described for the doll's table-cloth. Hem
neatly round, and oversew the open corners.
—
Marking Initials. The children should now
Fig. 15. Handkerchief
print their initials in pencil in one corner of the
handkerchiefs, after the teacher has demonstrated on FOR Child's own use.
the blackboard examples of clear printing. They
should then work over the lead pencil initials with coloured marking cotton
employing fine running stitches (see Fig. 15).
16. FLAG— ST. GEORGE'S CROSS.

Practice in hemming. Îore difficult placing involved.
Materials —
Employed for One Flag. A piece of soft white calico or sateen 9 in.
bv 5 in.,and two pieces of Turkey twill or red sateen 9 in. by 1 in. and 5 in. by
Tin. respectively. Sewing cotton. A stick of matchwood 12 in. long, and a
little Seccotine or other suitable adhesive.
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Class of 50. 2 yds. o£ calico, 36 in. wide, —
at 4d. per yd. = 8d. 28 in. of Turkey twill, 30 in. wide, at 8^d. per yd. = 7d.
Sewing cotton = Id. Matchwood and Seccotine = 9d. Total cost = 2s. Id., or
just ^d. each;
OR
2J yds. of white sateen, 30 in. wide, at 6d. per j^d. = Is. lid. 28 in. of red
.sateen, 30 in. wide, at 6d. per yd. = 4|d. Sewing cotton = Id. Matchwood and
Seccotine = 9d. Total cost = 2s. 4Jd., or a little more than id. each.

[a) Di.^GRAM. — Let each child make ruler drawings of the three sections of the
flagon a squared page of her diagram
f
book, at the same time entering dimen-
»( I
sions (see Fig. 16).

2" '.
(6) Cutting
out in" Paper. —
Supply each child with a piece of
cutting-out paper rather larger than is
1-
r
_i
R :
1
—£ :d
I
^
necessary for the cutting out of the
three sections. On this paper let her
make the necessary measurements,
i
rule the lines, and then cut out the
'
I
.-I-.,
pieces of the required size.

"L. .. . > \ . .4- «
(c) Cutting out in Material. —
Fig. 16. St. George's Cross. See instructions under Exercise 1
on page 25.
Sewing on of Cross. —^Turn
in a single fold all round each red strip on to the
wrong side, and tack the cross into its proper position on to the white ground
(see Fig. 16). Hem the cross on neatly. If any raw edges of the cross project
beyond the edges of the foundation, cut these off.
—
Hems. Tack hems J in. deep completely round the flag, and hem them neatly
down. Leave open the ends of one short hem for the purpose of inserting a stick,
and oversew up the other two corners. Supply each child with a 12-in. length of
matchwood, and let her smear this lightly A\'ith Seccotine for a distance of 4 in.
from one end. Let her insert this prepared end into the open hem, so that the
tip of the stick projects just bej'ond the opposite end of the hem.
[ N.B.
—
^The making of a St. Andrew's Cross is an additional exercise, involving
similar practice in placing and semng.]
STANDARD I REPAIRING LESSONS/

1. — Sewing on of Buttons.
At
this stage, the children will use only pierced linen buttons, or buttons of
other material {e.g., bone or pearl) having onty two holes.
' For method of conducting the lessons, see General Instructions.

STANDARD I REPAIRING LESSONS. 39
2. — Sewing on of Press-studs.
It is necessary to teach this early, as securing by press-studs is a useful and
easy method of fastening the small garments in knitting and sewing made in the
lower classes of the school.
3. —Repairing Hems.
This of course, be confined to very easy operations in mending hem5.
A%'ill,
A child may, for instance, sew up again the end of a hem which has come undone
on her own pinafore, her neighbour's, or one brought from home.
STANDARD II.
I. DOLL'S CUSHION COVER.

Chain stitch on canvas taught. Revision of oversewing for making up
OF COVER.
Materials Employed for One Cover. —Two 4-in.

"
squares of single-thread canvas.
"
Coloured embroidery cotton. (See section on Embroidery Cottons and Silks
in General Instyuctioiis.)
—
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Class of 50. 2 yds. of canvas, 24 in. wide,
at 6d. per yd. = Is. Embroidery cotton = 3d. Total cost = Is. 3d., or a little
more than Jd. each.

For drawing of diagram, and cutting out in paper and material, see instructions
for a pincushion (Ex. 5, St. I, on page 29).

—
Decoration. Decorate the square which is to form the top of the cushion by
a design in chain stitch similar to the one shown in Fig. 17. The method of
Fig. 17. Dotl's Cushion Cover, Fig. 18. Chain Stitch.

SHOWING Design in Chain Stitch.
working chain stitch is shown in Fig. 18. When inserting the needle for a stitch,
the loop of thread is held firmly under the left thumb at the point A, and is
released when the thread has been drawn through.
40
DOLL'S DUTCH BONNET. 41
Making up of Cushion. —
Turn down a single fold J in. deep round both
squares. Place the two squares with the turned-down edges facing each other.
Tack them in position along three sides, and oversew these sides together. Pad
the cushion -w-ith ra veilings, frayings, odd cuttings, or chaff, and then sew up the
remaining side.
2. DOLL'S DUTCH BONNET.

Practice in placing of deep hem and of chain stitch on finer material
FOR decorative PURPOSES.
—
Employed for One Bonnet. A piece of casement cloth or soft
Materials
zephyr 8 by 5i in. Sewing cotton and embroidery cotton. (See section on
in.
" Embroiderv Cottons and Silks " in General Instructions.)
1^ yds. of casement cloth,
50 in. wide, at 9|d. per yd. =ls. Id. Sewing cotton = Id. Embroidery cotton
= 1^-d. Total cost =^ Is. 3Jd., or a little more than ^d. each.
(«) Diagram. —
Let each child enter Fig. 19 in her record book, showing dimen-
sions. the doll to be fitted is of a different size from the one described under
(If
General Instructions, vary the dimensions of the bonnet proportionately.)
(6) Cutting out in Paper. —
Supply each child
with a piece of cutting-out paper rather larger than
the actual size required for the pattern of the bonnet.
On this paper let her rule the pattern and then cut
it out.
(c) Cutting out in Material. (1) If children—
bring their own material for the bonnet, let them
pin their patterns on and then cut out the bonnet.
Show them how to place the 8-in. edge of the
pattern along the selvedge way of the material.
(2) For cutting out the bonnet in school
material, see the instructions for a needlebook (Ex. Fig. 19.
1, St. I, on page 25). Doll's Dutch Bonnet.
—
Hems. ]Make hems about { in. deep along the two short edges AC and BD,
and along one selvedge edge AB. After hemming round these, make a hem | in.
deep along the second selvedge edge CD, turning clown this deep hem on to the
right side of the material. The deep hem will be folded back to form the flap or
turned-back portion at the front of the bonnet.
—
Decoration. Work a row of chain stitch on the turned-back hem, immedi-
ately above the hemming stitches. (See photograph of finished bonnet. Fig. 20.)
—
Joining up of Bonnet. Fold the oblong into halves so that the edge AC
lies over the edge BD. Oversew together the doubled edges formed by the two
halves of the line AB. This join will form the centre of the back of the bonnet.
It should now be drawn up by gathering up this centre line. The finished |>onnet
is shown in Fig. 20.
42 NEEDLKWOKK WITHOl'T SPECIMENS.
Fig. 20. Doll's Clothing •

Dutch Bonnet, Pinafore, Princess Petticoat,
Combinations, Petticoat without Bodice.
BRUSH AND COxMB BAG FOR CHILD'S OWN USE. 43
3. BRUSH AND COMB BAG FOR CHILD'S OWN USE.
Further practice in placing deep hems. Revision of chain stitch,

hemming, and oversewing.
Materials Employed for One Bag. —A piece of Saxony cloth, linen, crash, or
casement cloth, 28 in. by 10 in. Coloured embroidery cotton, white sewing cotton,
and 48 in. of tape. (For varieties of embroidery cotton, see section in General
Instructions.)
Cost.
[a) Using Saxony cloth, 30 in. wide, at 7d. per yd. —
Three bags can be
cut from a 28 in. length of the material. Cost of Saxony cloth for three bags =
5Jd. Embroidery cotton = Id. Sewing cotton and
tape = Id. Total cost = 7|d. for three, or 2Jd.
each.
(&) Using linen, 40 in. wide, at 2s. per yd.
—
Four bags can be cut from a 28 in. length of the
material. Cost of linen for four bags = Is. 6|-d.
Embroidery cotton = Hd. Sewing cotton and tape
= l|d. Total cost = Is. 9fd. for four, or about
5|d. each.
(c) Using casement cloth, 40 in. wide, at 9d.
per yd. —Four bags can becut from a 28 in. length
of the material. Cost of casement cloth for four
bags = 7d. Em.broidery cotton = l|d. Sewing
cotton and tape = 1^-d. Total cost = lOd. for four,
or 2Jd. each.

(fl) —
Diagram. Let each child enter a dimensioned
drawing of Fig. 21(a) in her record book.
(fe) —
Cutting out in Paper. Supply each child
with a piece of cutting-out paper rather larger than
the actual size required for the pattern of the bag.
On this paper let her draft the pattern, and then
cut it out. This paper pattern will probably not be
required except in the case of those children who
bring their material from home.
(c) —
Cutting out in Material. Supply a 28-in.
length of material to each group of three girls in the
Fig. 2l{a).
case of 30-in. wide material, and to each group of four
girls in the case of material 40 in. wide. Let them Brush and Comb Bag.
measure and mark off 10-in. distances along the top
and bottom of the material, and fold it by the help of these markings into
10-in. widths down the selvedge way. Let each girl in turn cut off her strip
along one of these folds.
Any child who brings her own material from home may pin on her paper
pattern, and cut the bag out in the usual manner.
44 NEEDLEWC^RK WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
—
Hems. Make hems about J in. deep down each of tlie long selvedge edges.
Make a hem If in. deep at each short end, as shown in l-'ig. 21(c). On each deep
hem work a line of running at a distance of \ in. above the hemming, to form
a runner through which tape will afterwards be passed to draw up the bag at
the top.
- 1 o '
^1
i«
4 J.
Fig. 21(6). Brush and Comb Bag. Fig. 21(c). Brush and Comb Bag.
Decoration. — Fold up the bottom half of the

strip on to the top half as shown
in Fig. 2\{b). On
the front half of this doubled material work a design in chain
stitch. This may
take the form of the girl's initials, which she may first write
on the bag in lead pencil and then work over.
—
Joining up of Bag. Again fold the work into bag form, and oversew the back
and front portions together along the lines BA and CD [i.e., up to the deep hem),
as shown in Fig. 21(c).
Draw-strings. ^Take two —
pieces of tape, each 24 in. in length, and by means
of a bodkin pass each of these through the two runners left for them at the foot
of the deep hems. Join each piece of tape into a ring. These tapes will form
loops for suspending the bag, and should be pulled out at opposite sides to draw-
up the top.
4. NIGHTDRESS CASE FOR GIRL'S OWN USE.

Alternative exercise to brush and comb bag, and introducing the same
POINTS.
Materials Employed for One Case. —A piece of Saxony cloth, linen, crash, or
casement cloth, 40 in. by 20 in.
Coloured embroidery cotton, and white se\\'ing
cotton. (For varieties of embroidery cotton, see section in General Ittstntctions.)
Cost.
(a) Using Saxony cloth, 30 in. wide, at 7|d. per yd. One bag can be —
made from a 40-in. length of the material. (As only 20 in. of the width is used,
the 10-in. width remaining may be used for a brush and comb bag to complete
NIGHTDRESS CASE FOR GIRL'S OWN USE. 45
the or for some other article.)

set, Cost of Saxony cloth = Sd..^ Embroidery
and cotton = Id. Total cost of one case = 6d.
se^\'ing
(6) Using linen, 40 in. wide, at 2s. per yd. —
One case can be made from a
20-in. length of the material. Cost of linen = Is. IJd. Embroidery and sewing
cotton = Id. Total cost of one case = Is. 2J^d.
(c) Using casement cloth, 40 in. wide, at 9d. per yd. —
One case can be
made from a 20-in. length of the material. Cost of casement cloth = 5d.
Embroidery- and se\ving cotton = Id. Total cost of one case = 6d.
i.^ --JL
Fig. 22(a). Nightdress Case. Fig. 22(&).

(a) Diagram. —Let each child enter a dimensioned drawing of Fig. 22 (a) in
her record book.
—
Cutting out in Paper. As with brush and comb bag in preceding exercise.
{b)
—
Cutting out in Material. (1) In the case of the Saxony cloth which is
(c)
30 in. ^\^de, use 20 in. (i.e., two-thirds of the width), and let the 40 in. lie along the
selvedge way of the material. The remaining third of the width may be profitably
used up in making other articles.
(2) In the case of the linen and casement cloth, use the entire width of the
material, and let the 20-in. measurement lie along the selvedge way,
* This gives the cost for f of a 40 in. length.
46 NEEDLEWORK WITJIOUT SPECIMENS.
[ N. B. —
The direction of the selvedge is immaterial in the case of a nightdress
case, as the amount of strain on the material in use varies little either way.
Economy in the use of the material, therefore, should be the guiding factor in
determining the direction of the selvedge.]
Hems. — Make hems about | in. deep down each long edge and along one short
edge. Make a hem 1| in. deep along the second short edge. Hem these, and
finish the corners neatly by oversewing.
—
Joining up of Case. Divide the resulting length into thirds, as shown in Fig.
22{i>). Fold the bottom third upwards till it lies exactly over the middle third,
leaving the top third to form a flap. Oversew together the edges of the case portion,
and fold down the flap over the front of the case.
Fig. 22(c). Nightdress Case.
—
Decoration. On the flap, work in chain stitch some such simple design and
wording as that shown in Fig. 22(c). Allow each girl to sketch her own design
on paper, and then, after any necessary suggestions or correction by the teacher,
on the case itself.
5. SHOE BAG.
French seam introduced. Practice in chain stitch for embroidery.
Materials Employed for One Bag. —
A piece of crash 32 in. by 12 in. J of a yd.
of narrow tape. 24 in. of wide tap^. Sewing cotton and coloured embroidery
cotton. (See section on " Embroidery Cottons and Silks " in General Instructions.)
Cost.
Three bags can be cut from a length of 32 crash 36 in. wide is employed.
in. if
The 32-in. measurement way of the material. Cost of
will lie along the selvedge
crash at 7|d. per yd. = 6fd. Tape = |d. Embroidery and se\ving cottons =
l|d. Total cost of three bags = 9d., i.e., 3d. each.
{a) Diagram. —Let each child enter a dimensioned drawing of Fig. 23 (fl) in
her record book.
—
Cutting out in Paper. See the instructions for Exercise 3 on page 43,
[h)
—
Cutting out in ]\'L^terial. Supply a 32-in. length of material to each
(c)
group of three girls. Let them measure and mark off 12-in. distances along the
top and bottom of the material, and fold it by the help of these markings into
SHOE BAG. 47
12-in. widths down the selvedge way. Let each girl in turn cut off her strip along
one of these folds.
Any child who brings her own material from home may pin her paper pattern
on to it, and cut out the bag in the usual manner.
Seams. —Fold up the bottom edge BC so that it lies exactly over the top edge
AD. Work a French seam down each side as follows Run the two edges together
:
on the right side, working the stitches about in. from the edge then cut off any
-|- ;
bits of fluff from the edges, and turn the work on to the wrong side. Press along
the join well, and do a second row of running on the wrong side at a distance of
Fig. 23(b).
Appearance of
Finished Bag.
Fig. 23(rt). Shoe Bag.

about I in. in from the joined edge. The distance in of this second row of running
should be such that no raw edges will be visible at the seams when the work is
turned on to the right side.
—
Hem and Runner at Top. Keeping the bag on the wrong side, make at
the open end a hem 1^ in. in depth [see Fig. 23(6) ]. Take the length of broad
tape, and make a narrow hem at each end of it. Next tack this piece of tape
round the top of the bag immediately below the hemming stitches, so that the
two ends of the tape meet at one of the seams. The two ends, however, must
be left unjoined for the purpose of inserting a draw-string. Secure this tape
neatly to the bag by running round the top and bottom edges. Next thread
the narrow piece of tape into a bodkin, pass it through the runner formed by the
wide piece of tape, and join the free ends together.
4— (815c;
48 NEEDLEWOKK WITFIOUT Sl'ECIMliNS.
—
Decokatiox. Let each child lay her bag flat, and write the word SHOES
on the front portion in large letters with a lead pencil. Let her then work over
her own lettering in chain stitch. Encourage alternative designs, however, by
individual children.
—
[ N. B. Alternative exercises to the shoe bag are linen bags, dinner bags, and
line and peg bags. For these employ crash, holland, calico. Saxony cloth, or
casement cloth, and adopt the same method of making as that described above
for the shoe bag.]
6. KNITTING BAG.
Second exercise ix Frexch seam. Revisiox of previous stitches.
Materials Employed for One Bag. —
A piece of casement cloth 20 in. by 12J in.
Sewing cotton and coloured embroidery cotton. (See section on "Embroidery
-iC
2.V - * * ^ '-
•*
'i*^Vm
2o"
lO" *J
Fig. 24(6).
Fig. 24(a).
KxiTTiXG Bag.
Cost.
Four bags can be cut from a 20-in. length of casement cloth, 50 in. wide. The
20-in.measurement will lie along the selvedge way of the material. Cost of
casement cloth at lOfd. per yd. = 6d. Sewing and embroidery cottons = 2d.
Total cost of four bags = 8d., i.e., 2d. each.
KNITTING BAG. 49

(a) Diagram. —Let children enter the diagrams shown in Figs. 24(a) and
24(6) in their record books, showing dimensions.
{b) Cutting out in Paper. —Supply each
girl with a piece of cutting-out
paper measuring 20 in. by 12| in. Let her obtain the line AB [see Fig. 24(a) ],
first
and cut down this. From the long strip obtained, let her cut off 14 in. for the
handle of the bag. Let her fold BD up to AC to get Fig. 24(6), and then obtain
Fig. 24(c). The Finished Knitting Bag.
the dotted guide lines by folding. Let her rule the lines EF and GH, and then
cut along these lines to produce the shaped top of the bag. The pattern may now
be opened out to its full length in readiness for placing on the material.
(c) —
Cutting out in ]Îaterial. Supply each set of four girls with a 20-in.
length of casement cloth 50 in. wide. Let them fold this into four equal portions
down the selvedge way, and cut down the folds. Each girl will thus be provided
with a piece of material 20 in. by 12^ in.
50 NEEDLEWORK WITHOrT SPECIMENS.
Let each girl first cut off the strip for the handle, pin tlie pattern on the
remaining piece of material, and cut out the bag.

—
Seams. Fold the bag into the position shown in Fig. 24(b). Make French
seams along FK and HJ as described for the shoe bag in the preceding exercise.
Keep the bag for the present on the wrong side.
—
Hems. Make narrow hems along FE, EG, and GH, and along the corre-
sponding edges of the other half of the bag.
Handle of Bag.- -Turn down a narrow fold completely round the strip for
the handle. Fold this strip into halves down its length, so that the folded edges
lie Tack these edges together, and then join them by oversewing.
face to face.
Attach the handle to the bag by oversewing one end of it to the middle of the
top edge of the front flap, and the other end to the corresponding edge of the back
flap [see Fig. 24(c) ].
Decoration. — Let
each child work an original design in chain stitch on the
front of the bag, after having first prepared this on paper under the teacher's
supervision. An example of a suitable design is shown in Fig. 24(c).
7. FLAG— FRENCH TRICOLOUR.

RUN-AND-FELL SEAM INTRODUCED.
—
Materials Employed for One Flag. -Three pieces of sateen blue, white, and red
;
respectively each 6 in. by 3 in. Sewing cotton.

; A
stick of matchwood 12 in.
long. A little Seccotine or other suitable adhesive. (Note that the blue should
be ultramarine, not navy as in the Eng-
lish Union Jack, and that the red should
. . 9".
tend to cerise rather than scarlet.)
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Class
of oO. —
30 in. each of blue, red, and
white sateen, 30 in. wide, at S^d. per
yd. = Is. 4:^. Sewing cotton = Id.
Blue:. White Red Matchwood and Seccotine — 9d. Total
cost = 2s. 2|d., or a little more than
Id. each.

(a) —
Diagram. Let each child make a
rulerdrawing of the flag in her record
book, showing dimensions as in Fig. 25.
Fig. 25. French Tricolour. (&) Cutting out in Paper. Supply—
each child with a piece of cutting-out
paper rather larger than the actual size required for the pattern of one strip. On
this paper let her rule the outline of the pattern, and then cut it out. This paper
pattern will probably not be required except in the case of those children who
bring their material from home. Its preparation is essential, however, because
in cases where the material distributed by the teacher is of the exact size required,
the children themselves obtain no practice in measuring and cutting unless they
prepare the pattern in paper.
DOLL'S PINAFORE. 51
(c) —
Cutting out in Material. (1) If children bring their own materials for
the flag, let them now pin their paper pattern on to each colour in turn, taking
care to place the 6-in. measurement the selvedge way, and then cut out the three
sections of the flag.
(2) If school material is emplojêd, it will probably be necessary for the teacher
to supply the children with pieces of material of the exact size required. With
regard to this point, see comment under " Cutting out in Material " (Ex. 1, St. I,
on page 26).

Seams. — Join together the three
of run-and-fell seams.
strips in the order shown in Fig. 25 by means
instructions
(Full for working such seams are given in
the books on Xeedlework by Miss Amy K. Smith and Miss A. Chamberlain,
published by Sir I. Pitman & Sons.)
—
Hems. If any uneven edges result after the joining of the seams, cut these
quite level. Tack hems \ in. deep completely round the flag, and hem them neatly
down. Leave open the ends of the short blue hem for the insertion of the stick,
and oversew up the other two corners.
—
Insertion of Stick. Supplv each child with a 12 in. length of matchwood,
and let her smear this lightly with Seccotine for a distance of 4 in. from one end.
Let her insert this prepared end into the open hem, so that the tip of the stick
projects just beyond the opposite end of the hem.
[ N.B.— A Belgian flag may also be cut out and made in the manner described
above, but with the following substitutions in colour black instead of blue,
:
yellow instead of white, and scarlet, tending to orange, in place of red.]
8. DOLL'S PINAFORE.
Second exercise in rux-and-fell seam. Revision of chain stitch for
decor.-\.tion.
Materials Employed for One Pinafore. —

A piece of casement cloth, zephyr, print,
or muslin 20 in. by 10 in. 25 in. of narrow tape. Sewing cotton and coloured
embroider V cotton. (See section on " Embroidery Cottons and Silks " in General
Instritctions.)
—
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Class of 50. 5| yds. of casement cloth, 50 in.
wide, at 8Jd. per vd. = 4s. 2i-d. Two knots of narrow tape at Is. 4d. per doz. =
2Jd. Coloured embroiden,^ cotton = 2|d. Sewing cotton = Id. Total cost =
4s. 9d., or a little more than Id. each.

(a) Diagram. — Let the children enter the diagram in their squared books,
showing dimensions. If the measuring method is to be used for drafting the
pattern, let them enter Fig. 26(a). If the folding method is adopted, the diagram
entered should be Fig. 26(6). A section of the General Instructions deals with
the principles which should guide the teacher in her selection of the method to
be adopted (see Sect. IX, page 12).
ih) Cutting out in Paper. —
(1) Measuring Me^/joi.— Supply each child with
a piece of cutting-out paper rather larger than the actual size required for the
front half of the pattern. On this let her draw a square 10 in. by 10 in., in which
52 NEEDLEWORK WITHOUT SPECLMENS.
Fig. 26(a). Doll's Pinafore (Measuring ^Method).
Fig. 26(6). Doll's Pinafore (Folding Method).

—
DOLL'S PRINCESS PETTICOAT. 53
to draw the front half of the pinafore. On this let her make the measurements
shown in Fig. 26(a), draw the outlines of the pattern, and cut away the shaded
portions.
(2) —
Folding Method. In this case let the child cut out the 10-in. square
immediately after drawing it. Let her then obtain the dotted guide-lines shown
in Fig. 26(5) by folding it into halves, quarters, and eighths each way. Let her
next draw in the outlines of the pattern b^r the aid of these folds, and cut out the
half pinafore in paper.
ic) Cutting out in ^Material. —
If casement cloth 50 in. wide is employed,
five pinafores can be cut from a length of 20 in. Supply each girl with a piece
of material of the requisite size, viz., 20 in. by 10 in. Let her fold this into halves
across the width, and place the doubled material on the desk with the fold at
the top. Let her then pin on the paper pattern, with the shoulder-lines lying
on the fold at the top, and cut out the garment in the double material.
Seams.—Make a run-and-fell seam up each side the pinafore. of
Hem —Make a hem round the bottom about J
at Foot. depth. in. in
Neck-curve and Armholes. — Keeping the pinafore on the wrong side, turn
down narrow folds round the neck-curve and armholes on to that sid;.
single,
Face these in with narrow tape in the following manner. Fix both edges of the
tape into position, tacking the outside edge to lie over the fold, and the inside
edge flat down on to the material below it. Oversew the outer edge into position,
and hem down the inner edge. It will be necessary to join the tape in both neck-
curve and armholes. Deal with the join as follows. In each case cut the tapes
\ in. longer than the curves to be faced. When the tape has been placed round,
this extra in. will form a projecting end.
-1 Turn under J in. of this to form a
fold, and hem the edge of this fold neatly down on to the commencing end of tape
which will underlie it.
—
Decoration. Ornament the neck-curve, armholes, and the bottom hem
with chain stitch. (See Fig. 20 for the finished article.)
9. DOLL'S PRINCESS PETTICOAT.

Third exercise in rux-and-fell seam. Sewing on of lace edging taught.
Materials Employed for One Petticoat. —Madapollam, 20 in. by 10 in. Sewing
cotton. 20 in. of narrow tape. J of a yd. of Valenciennes or imitation torchon
lace.
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Class of 50. 11 yds. of madapollam, 40 in.
wide, at 7Jd. per yd. = 4s. 8]:d. Three knots of narrow tape at Is. 4d. per doz.
= 4d. 37^ yds. of lace edging at |d. per yd. = Is. 6Jd. Sewing cotton = Id.
Total cost = 6s. 8d., or a Httle more than l|-d. each.

ia) Diagram. —
Let the children enter the diagram in their squared books,
pattern, let them enter Fig. 27(a). If the folding method is adopted, the diagram
entered should be Fig. 27(&). (A section in General Instructions deals with the
54 NEEDLEWoivK WIl HOIT SPECIMENS.
principles which should guide the teacher in her selection of the method to be
adopted.)
Proceed as in the case of the doll's pinafore in
the preceding exercise, but refer to Figs. 27(a) and 27(b).
(c) —
Cutting out in Material. If madapo'.lam 40 in wide is employed, four
pinafores can be cut from a length of 20 in., the latter measurement lying, of
lO"
Fig. 27(a). Doll's Princess Petticoat (^Measuring Method)
course, down the selvedge way of the material. Supply each girl with a piece
of material of the requisite size;viz., 20 in. by 10 in. Let her fold this into halves
across the width, and place the doubled material on the desk with the fold at
the top. Let her then pin on the paper pattern with the shoulder-lines placed
to the fold at the top, and cut out the garment in the double material.

Seams. —
Join the sides by run-and-fell seams.
Hems. — -INIake a hem round the bottom, J in. in depth. Finish the armlioles
with narrow hems. Make a narrow hem down each side of the back opening
DOLL'S COMBINATIONS. 55
(which should be about 4 in. in length), bringing this hem to a point at the bottom.
Let the right-hand hem overlap the left a little distance;, and neatly stitch it into
position. (The correct method of dealing with a back opening is too difficult at
this stage.)
—
F.vciXG OF Neck-curve. Turn down a single, narrow fold round the neck-
curve on to the wrong side, and face it with narrow tape. For doing this use the
method described when dealing with the doll's pinafore in the preceding exercise,
but leave equal ends of tape about 7 in. in length projecting at each end of the
Fig. 27 [b). Doll's Princess Petticoat (Folding Method).
neck-curve. Finish the end of each tape by a narrow hem, and use these
projecting tapes for fastening the petticoat.
fell seam.
—
Sewing on Lace. Join the strip of lace into a circle by means of a run-and-
Now oversew this lace round the edge of the bottom hem, putting in
a httle pleat occasionally to produce a slight fullness. If desired, lace may also
be sewn round the neck and sleeves, though this has not been allowed for in the
prices quoted above. The finished petticoat is shown among the doll's clothing
in Fig. 20.
10. DOLL'S COMBINATIONS.

Fourth e.xercise in run-and-fell seam. Method of sewing on press-studs
taught. Sewing on of lace edging.
Materials —
Employed for One Garment. A piece of madapollam 20 in. by 8 in.
9 of
in. narrow tape. 1 yd. of narrow Valenciennes or imitation torchon lace.
I yd. of narrow ribbon. Two press-studs. Sewing cotton.
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Class of 50.-5^ yds. of madapollam, 40 in.
wide, at 6^(1. per yd. — 3s. 3d. H
knots of narrow tape at Is. 4d. per doz. = 2d.
50 yds. narrow lace at id. per yd. '= 2s. Id. 25 yds. narrow ribbon at id. per yd.
= Is. Oid. Five cards of press-studs (each containing 20) = 5d. Sewing cotton
= l^d. Total cost ^ 7s. Id., or rather less than IJd. each.
J-" I"
4-|--->t--U--»
F"c^ L D.
^ g„ ^
Fig. 2S(fl). Doll's Combixatioxs
(Measurixg ^Method).

(a) Diagram. — Let the children enter the diagrams in their squared books,
showdng dimensions. If the measuring method is to be used for drafting the
pattern, let them draw Fig. 28(a). If the folding method is adopted, the diagram
entered will be Fig. 28(fe). (A section in General Instructions deals with the
principles which should guide the teacher in her selection of the method to be
adopted.)
(1) Measuring Method. —
Supply each child with
a piece of cutting-out paper rather larger than the actual size required for the
front half of the pattern. On this let her draw a rectangle 10 in. by 8 in., on
which she will draft the front half of the combinations. On it let her make
the measurements shown in Fig. 28(rt), draw the outlines of the pattern, and cut
DOLL'S COMBINATIONS. 57
away the shaded portions. Notice that the Hne AC, which extends completely
down the centre of the length, represents a cut which will be made in the front
portion only of the garment, to form the front opening of the combinations. This
long cut need not be made, therefore, in the paper pattern. The thickened line
CB represents a cut which will be made in both front and back portions of the
material for the leg seams. The short cut may be made in the paper pattern also.
(2) Folding Method. — In this case let the children cut out the 10 in. by 8 in.
rectangle immediately after drawing it. Let them then obtain the dotted guide-
lines shown in Fig. 28(&), by folding into halves, quarters, and eighths each way.
Let them next draw in the outlines of
the pattern, and cut out as described in
the pre\'ious paragraph.
{c) Cutting out in Material. If —
madapoUam 40 in. mde be used, five
pairs of combinations can be cut from a
20-in. length of the material. The 20-in.
measurement will lie down the selvedge
way. Supply each girl with a piece of
material of the requisite size {viz., 20 in.
by 8 in.), and let her fold this into halves
across the width, and place the double ^^^' '
i
1- - -i
r l^îo"
material on the desk with the fold at the
top. Let her then pin on the paper
pattern, placing the shoulder-lines to this
fold, and cut out the garment in the
double material. Let her then cut up
the line CB through both thicknesses, and
continue the cut along the line BA up
the front half only of the combinations.

• - — -6"-
—
Seams and Hems. Join the sides by
means of run-and-fell seams. Make a ^^ô. 28(6). Doll's Combinations
narrow hem down the whole length of (Folding Method).
each side of the front opening. Make
narrow hems also up each side of the opening CB at the back, sloping these hems
to a point at B. Join together the inner seams of each leg by oversewing together
(on the wrong side) the edges of the narrow hems at the front and back as far up
as the point B. Make narrow hems round the bottoms of the legs and round
the armholes.
—
Facing of Xeck-curve. Face the neck-curve with narrow tape as described
in dealing with the doll's pinafore. In this case, however, turn under single folds
at the ends of the tape on either .side of the front opening leave these ends open
;
for the purpose of passing through the narrow ribbon for drawing up the neck.
—
Sewing on of Lace. Oversew the lace edging round the neck, the armholes,
and the bottoms of the legs.
—
Finishing of Garment. Draw up the bottom of each leg slightly, by gathering
it round at a distance up from the bottom of about |- in. Sew on the press-studs
at equal distances apart down the front, and insert the runner in the neck.
The finished combinations are shown am.ong the doll's clothing in Fig. 20.
II. RUSSIAN FLAG.
Sew-and-fell seam taught.

Materials Employed for One Flag. —
^Three pieces of sateen white, blue, and
;
red respectively, each 9 in. by 2 in. Sewing cotton. A stick of matchwood,

12 in. long. A little Seccotine or other suitable adhesive. (Note that the blue
should tend to a full roval in colour, and the red should tend to crimson.)
1 yd. each of white, blue, and red
sateen, 30 in. wide, at Hid. per yd. = Is. 7kl. Sewing cotton = Id. Matchwood
and Seccotine = 9d. Total cost = 2s. 5id., or a little more than id. each.
[a) Diagram. —
Let cacli child make a ruler drawing of the Hag in her record
book, showing dimensions (see Fig. 29).
(h) Cutting out in Paper. —
paper rather larger than the actual size required for the pattern of one strip. On
this paper let her rule in the outline of
Q the pattern, and then cut it out. This
paper pattern will probably not be re-
quired except in the case of those
children who bring their material from
home. Its preparation is essential,
however, because in cases where the
material distributed by the teacher is
of the exact size required, the children
themselves obtain no practice in measur-
ing and cutting unless they prepare the
pattern in paper.
(c) —
Cutting out in jNIaterial. (1)
children bring their own materials for
If
Fig. 29. Russi.\n F'lag. ^he tiag, let them now pin their paper
pattern on to each colour in turn, taking
care to place the 9-in. measurement the selvedge way, and then cut out the three
sections of the flag.
(2) If school material is emplo^êd, it will probably be necessary for the teacher
to supply the children with pieces of material of the exact size required.

Seams. — Join together the three
of sew-and-fell seams. (Full
strips in the order shown in Fig. 29 by means
instructions for working such seams are given in
the books on Needleworkby Miss Amy K. Smith and Miss A. Chamberlain, published
by SirPitman & Sons.)
I.
—
Hems. If uneven edges occur in the resulting rectangle, cut these quite level.
Tack hems J in. deep completely' round the flag, and hem them neatly down.
Leave open the ends of one short hem for the insertion of the stick, and oversew
up the other two corners.
—
Insertion of Stick. See the exercise based on the French Tricolour (Ex. 7
on page 50).
DOLL'S PETTICOAT WITHOUT BODICE. 59
12. DOLL'S PETTICOAT WITHOUT BODICE.

Second exercise in sew-and-fell seam. Revision of previous stitches.
Materials Employed for One Petticoat. —
Two pieces of soft calico, each 6 in. by
9 in. 20 in. of narrow tape. Embroidery cotton. (See section on " Embroidery
—
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Class of 50. 4 J yds. of calico, 36 in. wide, at
4|-d. per yd. = Is. 8|-d. Three knots of narrow tape at Is. 4d. per doz. knots = 4d.
Embroiden,- cotton = 2d. Sewing cotton = Id. Total cost = 2s. SJd., or a little
over id. each.
{a) Diagram. —
Let the children enter the diagram of the half-petticoat (see
Fig. 30) in their squared books, showing dimensions. (If the doll to be fitted is
of a different size from the one described in the General Instructions, vary the
dimensions of the petticoat proportionately.)
paper rather larger than the actual size required for the pattern of the half-petti-
coat. On this paper let her rule the pattern, and then cut it out. Point out to
the children that the dotted line AB
represents the placket hole, which
will be obtained by making a cut 3
^ _ ^..
^
' _
- •-- i
i..
^ j
in. long down the centre of the back

half of the material. This paper
pattern may not be required for the
cutting out. With regard to this, see
note under French Tricoloiiy, Ex. 7,
on page 50.
As each half -petticoat is 9 in. wide
and 6 in.
long, t^vo complete petticoats
can be cut from a width of material
36 in. wide and 6 in. in depth. Supply
each pair of girls with a piece of
material of this size. Let them divide „ „
ig.
this into halves down the selvedge
.
1 ,.,
way, each girl takmg one „ ^„„+-^^ .f^^
section for
^^
Doll s
-r, ,
Petticoat without Bodice.
her own petticoat. This she will again
di\-ide into halves for the two portions of the petticoat. Lastly, let her cut the
placket for the back in one of these portions.
If any child brings her own material from home and this is not of the exact
size required, let her pin her paper pattern on to the doubled material, taking
care that the 6-in. measurement lies along the selvedge way, and cut out the
petticoat.

Seams.— Join the sides by sew-and-fell seams.
—
Hems. Make a hem round the bottom in. in depth.
|- Make a narrow hem
down each side of the placket opening, bringing it to a point at the bottom. Let
the right-hand hem overlap the left a little distance, and neatly stitch it into
60 NEEDLEWORK WIIIKX' 1 SPECIMENS.
position. (The correct methiod of dealing with a placket (opening is too difficult
at this stage.) Make a hem round the top ^ in. in depth. Leave the ends open,
and pass the narrow tape through this hem to serve as a draw-string. Hem
each
end of the tape.
—
Decoration. Ornament the hem by a row of chain stitch.
The finished petticoat is shown among the doll's garments in Fig. 20.
13. DOLL'S NIGHTDRESS.

Third e.xercise in se\v-a.nu-i i.1.1. mam, a.nd in sewin'o on lace edging.
Materials Employed for One Nightdress. —A piece of madapollam 32 in. by
10 in. A piece of narrow tape, 14 in. long. 14 in. of narrow Valenciennes or of
imitation torchon lace, i vd. of narrow bcbe ribbon. Sewing cotton.
^ (. £ £ V £
Fig. 31(6j.
Doll's Nightdress
Sleeve
(Measuring
]Method).
Fig. 31 (fl).Doll's Nightdress.

(Measuring Method) .
A*. £?.— Cambric and nainsook are also suitable materials.^

[
—
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Class of 50. Hi yds. of raadapol'am, 40 in.
wide, atejd. per vd. = 6s. 4d. 2 J knots of tape at Is. 4d. per doz. = 3W. 25 yds.
of narrow ribbon at 4id. per doz. = 9id. 30 yds. of lace edging at id. per yd.
DOLL'S NIGHTDRESS. 61
= Is. 3d. Sewing cotton 2d. Total cost = 8s. lOd., or a little over 2d.
each.

[a] DiAGRAJi. —
Let the children enter the diagram in their squared books,
pattern, let them draw Figs. 31(a) and 31(6). If the folding method is adopted,
the diagrams entered will be Figs. 31(c) and 3l{d). (A paragraph in General
Instructions deals with the principles which should guide the teacher in her selection
of the method to be adopted.)
JA 1
>-
<l '
L.-.i.^'B I.
o ;
1
>r
—
; i :
]--
f
[ 1 1
-^ " " "
T" "
Fig. 31(d).
J- . .. .-.^
Doll's Nightdress
j
Sleeve
(Folding Method).
,j- — «
Fig. 31(c). Doll's Nightdress

(Folding Method).

(1) Measuring Method. Supply each child with —
a piece of cutting-out paper rather larger than the actual size required for cutting
the front half of the pattern and the pattern of one sleeve. On this let her draw
rectangles 14 in. by 10 in., and 4 in. by 4 in. respectively. On these let her make
the measurements shown in Figs. 31(a) and 31(&), draw in the outlines of the
pattern, and cut away the shaded portions.
(2) Folding Method. —
In this case let the children cut out both the large and
'
DOLL'S MAGYAR FROCK. 63
the small rectangles immediately after drawing them. Let them take the larger
one first, and obtain the dotted guide-lines shown in Fig. 31(c) by folding it into
halves, quarters, and eighths each way. Let them draw in the outlines of the
pattern A\-ith the aid of these folds, and cut out the half nightdress. Let them
similarly obtain the folds in the smaller rectangle shown in Fig. 31(^), draw in
the top curve of the sleeve, and cut out the pattern.
(c) —
Cutting out ix ]\L\terial. If material 40 in. wide is employed, four
nightdresses can be cut from a length of 32 in. Divide this into four equal por-
tions down its length, and supply each child with a piece 10 in. wide and 32 in.
long. Let the children measure down this length a distance of 4 in., and cut off
this 4-in. strip for the purpose of obtaining the sleeves. Let them fold the remain-
ing 28-in. length into halves across its width, and place the doubled material on
the desk \\ith the fold at the top. Let them pin on the paper pattern with the
shoulder-lines lying on the fold at the top, and cut out the garment in the double
material. The dotted line AB in Figs. 31(a) and 31(c) represents the back opening,
which is produced by making a cut 3 in. in depth down the centre of the back half.
From the strip reserved for the sleeves, let the children cut off two 4-in. squares.
Let them place these one upon another, pin on the paper pattern, and cut out
the two sleeves at once.
—
Seams. Join up the sleeves and the sides of the nightgown by means of
sew-and-fell seams.
—
Hems. Make a narrow hem round the bottom of each sleeve, and a rather
wider hem round the bottom of the nightdress. Make narrow hems down both
sides of the back opening, bringing them to a point at the bottom. Let the right-
hand hem overlap the left a little distance and neatly stitch it into position. (The
correct method of dealing with the back opening is too difficult at this stage.)
—
Facing at Neck. Turn do^vn a single, narrow fold round the neck on to
the wrong side, and face it with narrow tape as described in the case of the doll's
pinafore on page 53. Leave the ends of the tape open, and pass the narrow ribbon
through the runner thus formed for the purpose of drawing up the neck.
Ln'sertiox of Sleeves. —
Insert each sleeve by means of a French seam, keeping
the seam of the sleeve to the seam of the nightdress. The sleeve will be found
to fit in exactly without any fullness.
—
Finishing at Neck and Sleeves. Sew the narrow lace round the neck and
the bottom edges of the sleeves. Run round each sleeve about J in. above the
bottom edge, and draw up the thread a little, so that the sleeve is finished with
a frill.
The finished nightdress is shown among the doll's garments in Fig. 32.
14. DOLL'S MAGYAR FROCK.

Revision of French seam and previous stitches. " Snail trail " taught
FOR decoration.
Materials Employed for One Frock. —
A piece of casement cloth 22 in. by 14 in.
9 in. of narrow tape. yd. of narrow ribbon.
-J-
Sewing cotton and embroidery
cotton. (See section on " Embroidery Cottons and Silks " in General Instructions.)
J yd. of narrow Valenciennes or imitation
torchon lace.
rjv.S. — Print, zephyr, muslin, delaine, etc., are also suitable materials.]
5— (815c)
64 NEEDLEWORK W'lllKJUT SPECIMENS.

10} yds. of casement cloth,
42 in. 1 wide, at 7Jd. per yd. = 6s. 7Jd. Embroidery cotton or silk = 2d.
25 yds. cf lace edging at Jd. per yd. = Is. O.Jd. H
knots of narrow tape at
Is. 4d. per doz. = 2d. 25 yds. of narrow ribbon at 4kl. per doz. yds. = BJd.
Sewing cotton = lid. Total cost = 8s. lid., or a little more than 2d. each.
"^^^
14"-
Fig. 33(rt). Doll's Frock (Measuring Method).

(a) Diagram. — the children enter the diagram in their squared books,
^Let
showing dimensions. the measuring method is to be used for drafting the
If
pattern, let them enter Fig. 33 (a). If the folding method is adopted, the diagram
entered should be Fig. 33(6). (A paragraph in General Instructions deals with
the principles which should guide the teacher in her selection of the method to be
adopted.)
Proceed as described in the case of the doll's
pinafore on page 51, but refer to Figs. 33{a) and 33{^j).
If material 42 in. wide is employed, three
frocks can be cut from a complete width, 22 in. in length, the latter measurement
being, of course, down the selvedge way of the material. Supply each girl with
1 Forty inches is a more common width in casement cloths than 42 in., and can be
more easily obtained from retail firms. In the case of a 40-in. width being employed, let the
children cut the paper pattern of the size given, but, when cutting out in material, let them allow
the ends of the sleeves to project slightly over the edges of the material (which, in this case, will
be 13^ in. wide instead of 14 in.). The length of each sleeve will thus be diminished by ^ in. only,
and the remaining part of the frock will remain unaltered.
DOLL'S MAGYAR FROCK. 65
a piece of material of the requisite size, viz., 22 in. by 14 in. Let her then follow
the same plan as that adopted in cutting out the doll's pinafore mentioned above.
Fig. 33(6). Doll's Frock (Folding Method).

—
Sleeves. Make a narrow hem round the wrist of each sleeve.
—
Seams. Join the sides by means of French seams. (These seams are
described in the case of the shoe bag on page 47.)
fully
Hem. — -Make a hem round the bottom \ in. in depth.

—
Facing of Neck-curve. -Turn under a fold J in. deep at
each end of the tape for the neck, and face the neck-curve
with this tape as described for the doll's pinafore on page 53.
In this case, however, commence to sew on the tape at the
centre of the back of the neck. WTien it has been sewn com-
pletelv round, do not join the two folded ends together, but
leave them open for inserting the narrow ribbon to draw up
the neck.
FiNisHi.xG AT —
Xeck AND Sleeve. Sew the lace round the
neck and sleeves. Run round the bottom of each sleeve at a
distance of .\in. up from the edge of each hem. Draw up the
thread so as to form a frill at the bottom of each sleeve. Pass
the narrow ribbon through the runner at the neck after the
decoration described below has been carried out.
—
Decoration. \Vork a design in " snail trail " (which is a 34.
variation of chain stitch), on the hem, neck, and front of the
Trail.
frock. The details of working the stitch are shown in Fig. 34.
The finished frock is shown among the doll's garments in Fig. 32
15. KETTLE-HOLDER.
Cross stitch taught vor di^^îgn.
Materials Employed for One Holder. —

A 6i-in. square of double-thread canvas.
A 6|-in. square of sateen. A 5i-in. square of cotton-wool. Embroidery silk.
(See section on " Embroidery Cottons and Silks " in General Insiriictior,s.)
—
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Class of .»0. 2^ yds. of double-thread canvas,
27 in. wide, at lOd. per yd. -^ 2s. Id. 2^ yds. of sateen, abf)ut 30 in. wide, at
Fig. 35. Cross Stitch, Steps 1 and 2.
5Jd. per yd. = Is. IJd. Embroidery cotton or silk = 9d. 2% sheets of cotton-
wool at 2d. per sheet =5d. Total cost =
4s. 4|d., or a little more than Id. each.

For the diagram and cutting out, see instructions for a pincushion on page 30.
DOLL'S STAYS. 67

Decoration. —Demonstrate to the class the method of working cross stitch,
using coarse canvas and wool. The details of working the stitch are shown in
Fig. 35.
Let each child work on her canvas square an original design in cross stitch,
after having first prepared this on paper under the teacher's supervision. An
example of a suitable design is shown in Fig. 36. An inch margin of plain canvas
(undecorated) should be left all round the square.
^ •^»>Y*-»-»-v-*-»-«-»-sry»-«v »>>>->'»viiik iX't'f'K'tir* »» «
> 1»W.i
i :*>.M;Wtfc>i l |i iaffl lT
i»
ii i
i ill^JWMpii^
Fig. 36. Kettle-kolder.
Making up of Holder. —Turn down folds | in. in depth completely round

the square.s of canvas and sateen, in each case on to the wrong side of the material.
(The polished or glossy side of the sateen is the right side.) Place the squares
of canvas and sateen so that the wrong sides are face to face. Insert between
them the square of cotton-wool. Tack together the turned-in edges of the squares
of canvas and sateen, the cotton-wool between them thus forming the padding
of the holder. Oversew the double edges neatly together, and, lastly, sew a
curtain-ring strongly to one corner for suspending the holder.
i6. DOLL'S STAYS.

Quilting taught. Second exercise in sewing ok press-studs.
Materials Employed for One Garment. —
One piece of twilled calico, Turkey twill,
print, zephyr, casement cloth, or other suitable material, 11 in. by 4 in.; and one
68 NEEDLEWOl^K WirHOUT SPECIMENS.
piece 3 in. by 3 in. One piece of flannel, 11 in. by 3 in., for lining the stays.
Sewing cotton, and three press-studs.
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Class of .>0.— 1;^ yds. calico, etc., 36 in. wide,
at 6^d. per yd. = Is. ()]d. 2^ yds. flannel, 28 in. wide, at Is. per yd. = 2s. 6d.
12i doz. press-studs at 20 a Id. = 7.id. Sewing cotton = Id. Total cost =
4s. 31-d., or about Id. each.

Di.\GRAM.
(a) —Let children enter a dimensioned drawing of the g arment in
books, omitting the diamond pattern for the present (see Fig. 37
ir (If the
doll to be fitted is of a di fferent size from the one described i
Instructions, vary the dimensions of the garment proportionately.)
><--|" tt 4."-
Fig. 37. Doll's Stays.
(fe) —
Cutting out in Paper. Supply each child with a piece of cutting-out
paper rather larger than the actual size required for the pattern of the stays. On
this paper let her rule the patterns of the stays and shoulder-straps, and then
cut them out.
(c)Cutting out in Material. —
Supply each girl with the exact amount of
material described above as that for one garment. Let her place the portions of
calico and flannel (each measuring 11 in. by 4 in.) upon each other, pin on the
pattern of the stays, and cut out the stays and the flannel lining at once, though
this combined process requires very careful supervision. Let her divide the 3-in.
square of calico into halves down the selvedge way for the shoulder-straps.

—
Lining of Stays. Turn down a narrow fold on to the wrong side completely
round both stays and lining. Before joining the lining and stays together, tack
these turnings firmly down into place on each half separately, bestowing particular
care on tacking round the curves. Place the calico and flannel with the wrong
sides facing each other, tack together the folded edges, and then oversew neatly
round.
—
Quilting. Next draw with ruler and lead pencil, on the right side of the
stays, oblique lines crossing each other, as shown in Fig. 37. Run along all these
lines with white or coloured cotton, taking the stitches through both stays and
lining.
—
Shoulder-straps. Turn in a narrow fold completely round each shoulder-
strap. Double each strap into halves down the selvedge way, tack together the
STANDARD II REPAIRING LESSONS. 69
turned-in edges, and oversew them neatly together. Secure the straps into
position bv oversewing them to the shoulder ends of the front and backs.
—
Fasteners. Sew the press-studs down the back opening, placing them at
equal distances apart.
The finished stays are shown among the doll's garments in Fig. 32.
STANDARD II REPAIRING LESSONS-'

1. Revision.
All the repairs described under the Standard I Syllabus ; viz., sewing on of
buttons and press-studs, and repairing of hems.
2. Replacing of Hooks and Eyes.

At this stage the hooks and eyes will not be sewn on by the button-holing
method, as shown in Fig. 74, Standard IV ; but by means of over-casting stitches
placed closelv side bv side.
3. Easy Repairs to Seams which Require Attention.
At present, seams in cotton clothing only should be attempted these should ;
be confined, moreover, to the seams actually taught to the children in the making
of their garments, e.g., run-and-fell and sew-and-fell.
4. Sewing on Lace which has been Torn from Garments.

This should be confined to oversewing on lace, either plainly or slightly fulled.
The making of the doll's garments given in the Standard II Syllabus provides
for the teaching of this.
* For method of conducting the lessons, see General Instructions.

STANDARD III.
Children- of 9 to lU Years of Age.
I. FANCY WORK BAG OF FINE CANVAS.

Satin stitch taught for of.sign.
Materials and Cost for One Bag. —

Single-thread canvas, 24 in. by 9 in., at
'
6Jd. per yd. = lid. Sateen, ' 24 in. by 9 in., at 5ki. per yd. .= l^d. Embroidery
cotton or silk = Id. (See section on " Embroidery Cottons and Silks " in General
Instructions.) 1 doz. small bone rings at Id. per doz. = Id. 1 yd. silk cord
at Id. per yd. = Id. Total cost — 5f d. each bag.
If, however, as suggested in the instructions for
^^ 9': ^Q making, large cross stitches are made at equal distances
apart round the top, and the cord passed through
these, no rings will be needed, and the price of the bag
will be reduced bv Id.

[a] Di.\GKAM. — Let each child enter a dimensioned
diagram of the bag in her record book (see Fig. 38).
ih) Cutting out in Paper. — Supply each child with
a piece of cutting-out paper rather larger than the
actual size required for cutting out the pattern of the
bag. On this paper let her draft the pattern, and then cut
it out. This paper pattern will probably only be required
in the case of those children who bring their material
from home. Its preparation is essential, however, in
order to gi\e all children a certain amount of practice in
measuring and cutting.
(c) Cutting out in Material. — (1) Employing schoo
material. —Supply each girl with material of the requisite
size, viz., canvas 24 in. by 9 in., and sateen 24 in. by 9
in.
(2) Employing Material from Home. -Let the children—
pin their paper patterns on their canvas and sateen in turn,
P OQ and cut out the bag and its lining.
Fancy-work Bag. Instructions for Making.
—
Decoration. Take the length of canvas and fold BC
up to AD (see Fig. 38). On the front half work a design in satin stitch. This
stitch consists of straight stitches worked over and over, to lie quite closely
1 Use canvas 27 in. wide, and then nine bags can be cut from a length of 2 yds. Similarly,
nine linings can be cut from 2 yds. of sateen, any excess in the width of the sateen being applied
to some other purpose.
70
FANCY-WORK BAG OF FINE CANVAS. 71
together. The details of the stitch are shown in Fig. 40. Let each child first
sketch on paper her o^\^l design, and, after an^- necessary corrections have been
made, work it out on canvas. A suitable design is shown in Fig. 39.
—
Joining up of Bag. ^The canvas bag and its sateen lining will each be made
up separatelv. Down each long side of the canvas {i.e., down AB and DC) turn
Fig. 39.
Fancy-work Bag showing Appearance
OF Finished Article.
a single fold § in. in depth on to the wrong side. Now fold BC back again up to
AD, keeping the wrong side outermost. Oversew down the two side seams thus
formed. Turn down a single fold f in. in depth round the open top of the bag
on to the wrong side. Repeat the above process exactly in the case of the sateen
lining.
Turn the canvas bag on to the wrong side. Keeping the sateen bag on the
72 XEEDLi:\V()l<K WITHOIT SrKCl.MKXS.
wrong side, insert it in the canvas one, so that the side seams of each face
each
other, and the turned-down tops of each are also facing. Oversew together the
canvas and sateen bags round the top.
—
Drawing up of Bag. At a distance of IJ in. from the top of the bag, sew on
the rings at equal distances from each other. Cut the yard of cord into halves.
Pass each half through all the rings, and in each case sew together the two ends.
Draw out the loops of cord at opposite sides of the bag. thus closing up the top
and forming handles.
^J\B. Instead of rings, the children may make large cross stitches with the
embroidery cotton, at equal distances from each other round the tup of the bag,
through which to pass the cords for the handles.
Fig. 40.
Method of Working Satin Stitch.
2. CHILD'S FEEDER.
Sewing on tape-strings taught. Application of satin stitch for design.
Materials and Cost of Two Feeders. —

15 in. of casement cloth not less than
48 in. wide i at 9f d. per yd. = 4d. 48 in. of tape, J in. wide = Jd. Embroidery
cotton or silk = Id. (See section on " Embroidery Cottons and Silks " in General
Inslmctions.) Sewing cotton = Jd. Total cost of two feeders = 5Jd., i.e.,
2|d. each.
1 From this, four pieces of material, each 15 in. by 12 in., can be obtained, two being required
for each feeder to form a double thickness.
CHILD'S FEEDER. 73
Drafting and Cutting Out,

(a) Diagram. —
Let children enter in their record books the dimensioned
diagram shown in Fig. 4L
(6) Cutting otrT in Paper. —
Let each girl cut out from the paper supplied
to her a piece measuring 15 in. by 12 in. Let her fold this into halves down its
length, thus obtaining the crease AB. Let her next obtain points C, D, and E
bv measurement, draw in the neck-curve freehand, and then cut away the shaded
portion.
(c) Cutting out in Material. —Supply
each pair of girls with a complete
width of material 15 the material is 50 in. wide (the usual width
in. in length. If
of a ^îde caseinent cloth), let them first cut off the excessive width of 2 in. Let
them then divide the remaining 48-in. width into four equal parts down the selv-
edge way, each girl taking two parts and laying one upon another. Let each girl
then pin on her paper pattern and cut out the neck-curve in the double material.
—
Working of Design. A design should be worked on the top portion of the
feeder onlv, before the two pieces are joined together. Let each girl first draw
on paper her own design, which should be very simple and suitable for working
in satin stitch. After any necessary corrections have been made, let each girl
draw her design on the material \\ ith
lead pencil. A design including an
initial is shown in Fig. 42. Let her
now work over the outline in satin
stitch instructions
; for working
this are given under the preceding
exercise.
Making of Feeder. —Place the
tAvo pieces of material one upon the
other with the right sides facing.
Run and backstitch the edges
together at a distance in of |- in.,
except along the straight edges at
the bottom, which should be left
open for the present. Round this
open edge turn a single fold ^ in.
deep on to the wrong side. Now
turn the feeder inside out, so that
the right side is outermost. Flatten
the joined edges by pressing between
the fingers. First tack and then
oversew together the tiimed-in edges
at the bottom.
Sewing on of Tapes. Cut the —
24-in. length of tape into halves.
Sew on one of these pieces at each
side of the neck-curve, and make a A Child's Feeder.
narrow hem at the end of each.
(Full instructions for the sewing on of tapes are given in the Needlework books by
Miss Amy K. Smith and Miss A. Chamberlain, published by Sir I. Pitman & Sons.)
74 NE1"DI.F.\\()KK Wirnor'l' SPECIMENS.
Fig. 42. Child's Feeder, showing Appearan'ce oe Finished

.\rtici.e.
3. BABY'S BIB.
Second exercise in sewing on tape strings. New design in satin stitch.

—
Materials Employed for One Bib. Two pieces of casement or Saxony cloth,
each 10 in. by 8 in. ^ Two pieces of flannelette, each 9 in. by 7 in. 18 in. of tape
i in. wide. Embroidery cotton or silk. (See section on choice of " Embroidery
Cottons and Silks " in General Instructions.) Sewing cotton.
Materials and Cost of Ten Bibs. —
1 yd. 2 4 in. of casement cloth, 40 in. wide,
at 8fd. per yd. = 9fd. 1 yd. of flannelette, 36 in. wide, at 7Jd. per yd. — 7|d.
5 yds. of tape, h in. wide = Id. Embroidery cotton or silk = 4d. Sewing cotton
= ^d. Total cost = Is. lid., or 2-^d. each.
1 In the case of the pattern shown in Fig. 43(c), the pieces of casement cloth should be 10 in.
by 9 in., and the flannelette 9 in. by 8 in.
^ A little more casement cloth will be required if the pattern shown in Fig. 43(c) is selected.
Fig. 43(d). Baby's Bib —First Shape. Fig. 43(6). Baby's Bib —Second Shape.
->*:---2--->< 3t >
* 5
Fig. 43(c). Baby's Bib —Third Shape.
7fi XEEDI.EWOKK WniiOL'T SPECIMENS.
(a) Diagram. —Let children make a dimensioned drawing of the bib in their
record books. Figs. 43(a), 43(6), and 43(c) show three different shapes, any one
of which may be selected.
paper rather larger than the actual size required for cutting out the pattern. Let
her rule and cut out a rectangle of the required size for the pattern selected. She
will be helped by folding the guide creases indicated by the dotted lines, and
Fig. 44. Baby's Bib showing Finished Appearance.

employing when possible, to obtain the necessary measurements. The
these,
outline may
then be ruled or otherwise drawn, and the pattern cut out.
(c) —
Cutting out in Material. Supply each girl with the exact amount of
material described above as that for one bib. In ever^' case the 10-in.
measurement should lie down the selvedge way of the material.
(1) Covering of Bib. —
Let each girl place the two pieces of casement cloth one
upon the other, pin the paper pattern on the double material, and cut out the
bib.
BOY'S WOODWORK APRON. 77
(2) Inteyliniug of Bib. —

Let each girl rule lines round the paper pattern of
the bib at a uniform, distance of J in. from the outside edge, and cut along them
to remove the margin. Now let her place the two pieces of flannelette one upon
the other, pin the reduced pattern on to the double material, and cut out the
interlining.

—
Working of Design. M"ork a design on the top portion of the bib before
the pieces are joined together. Let each child first draw on paper a design suit-
able for satin stitch. After any necessary corrections have been made, let her
reproduce this design on the material in lead pencil. A simple design is shown
in Fig. 44, where the alternate triangles were worked in green and terra-cotta
respectively.
Îakixg of Bib. —Place
the double layer of flannelette upon the wrong side
of the lower portion of the bib,which will project beyond it for a distance of | in.
all the wav round. Tack the edges of the flannelette firmly to the material below
them. Turn down the whole of the projecting edges of the casement cloth (or
other material) on to the flannelette. Take the decorated upper portion of the
bib, and turn down folds on to the wrong side to correspond in depth with the
tumed-in edges of the lower portion. Place the two pieces of the bib together,
so that the turned-in edges face each other, and first tack and then oversew these
edges together all the way round, thus enclosing the padding of flannelette.
—
Sewing on Tapes. Cut the 18-in. length of tape into halves. Sew one of
these pieces at the end of each straight edge at the back of the neck. Make a
narrow hem at the end of each piece of tape.
4. BOY'S WOODWORK APRON.

Third exercise in sewing on of tapes. Machining of aprons to be done
by upper standard girls.
A. FIRST SIZE, FOR BOY OF 11 OR 12 YEARS.
Materials and Cost of One Apron. —
1 yd. dowlas, 24 in. wide, at 5|d. per yd.
= 5id. 70 in. of unbleached tape at 3Jd. per piece of 12Jd. yds. = Jd. Sewing
cotton and one large Unen button = |d. Total cost for one apron = 6^d.

(a) Di.\GRAM. —Let each child enter dimensioned drawings of Figs. 45{a) and
45(6) in her record book.
(&) —
Cutting out in Paper. No paper pattern will be required, as the
necessar\' measurements and folds can be made directly on the material.
Supply each child with a yard of dowlas,
24 in. wide. Let her obtain by measurement the points E, F, G, and H shown
in Fig. 45(a), and fold down the material to obtain the creases EF and GH, after-
wards opening out the work again. Let her fold down point A so that EA lies
along the line EF, and then fold down the point D so that GD Hes along GH [see
Fig. 45(6) . She will then see clearly how the finished shape of the apron is obtained.
Instructions for Making. (St. VI Girls.)
—
Machining Hems. Open out the material to its original shape, and make
hems at the top and bottom edges about f in. in depth. Machine along these,
draw both ends of cotton through to the wrong side and tie off neatly.
Again fold down the two top corners into place, as shown in Fig. 45(6). Tack
round EAJ and GDK, and either machine or hem these round.
—
Sewing on Tapes. The girls of Standard III may now sew on the tapes at
the waist and the right-hand side of the neck, using a length of 26 in. for eacli
aP 9"- . .--6" .--,

^,
\
E S
c
/
J'
36'
B<- -*c. b F C
Fig. 45 (rt). Fig. 45(6).

Boy's Woodwork Apron.
tape at the waist, and 18 in. for the neck. Make a narrow hem at the end of each
waist-tape.
At the loose end of the neck-tape, turn up a deep hem \\ in. in depth, and
oversew together the sides of this hem.
Cut a button-hole on this deep hem to correspond in size with the button
selected, and have this worked by an upper standard girl. Sew on the button
at the top left-hand corner of the bib.
B. SECOND SIZE, FOR BOY OF 13 OR 14 YEARS.

Employ dowlas 28 in. wide, and let the length of the apron be 38 in. to 40 in.,
according to the height of the intended wearer.
SEWING BAG FOR GIRL'S OWN USE. 79
Make the distance EG [Fig. 45(a)] 7 in., and the distances EA and GD e^ch
lOJ in.
The lengths of the tapes will require no alteration, and the apron may be made
up as described above.
The cost of the larger apron will be about 8d., owing to increased width and
length.
5. SEWING BAG FOR GIRL'S OWN USE.

Fourth exercise in sewing on of tapes. Satin stitch applied to the putting
ON OF girl's initials IN APPLIQUE^,
The bag described below may be used to tie up and store away each child's
work cleanly when not required it can further be used during the sewing lesson
;
Fig. 46(6). Open Sewing Bag.
Fig. 46(u). Sewing Bag.
Fig. 46(c). Closed Sewing Bag.

tied round the girl's waist to serve as an apron to protect the work from becoming
soiled.
Materials Employed for One Sewing Bag. —
A piece of crash, ^ 32 in. by 18 in.
A small portion of casement cloth or sateen for initials in applique. A 52-in.
* Other suitable, cheap, and strong materials are calico, print, galatea, holland, casement cloth,
etc. If any of these are employed, the dimensions of the sewing bag may be modified if necessary,
in order to cut the material to the best advantage.
6— (815c)
80 NEEDLEWORK WITHOUT SPECHNIENS.
length of tape, J in. wide. Sewing cotton, and embroidery cotton to harmonise
in colour with the apphque letters. (See section on " Embroidery Cottons and
Silks " in General Instrticlions.)
—
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Class of 50, 22]^ yds. of crash, 36 in. wide,
at 6Jd. per yd. = 12s. 6]d. 8 knots of tape at Is. 4d. per doz. knots = lO^d.
I yd. coloured casement cloth at 8^d. per yd. = 6|d. Embroidery cotton = 6d.
Sewing cotton = Id. Total cost =^ 14s. 6kl., or 3id. each.

(a) Diagram.— Let each child enter a dimensioned drawing of Fig. 46(a) in
her record book, and a sketch of Fig. 46(6) to show how it is obtained from Fig.
46 (fl)
(6) Cutting —
out in Paper. No paper pattern will be required, as the
necessary measurements and folds can be made directly on the material.
Fig. 47. Sewing Bag, showing Finished Appearance.
(c) —
Cutting out in Material. Supply each pair of girls with a complete
width of crash, 32 in. in length. Let them di\dde this into halves down the selv-
edge way, each taking one portion for her own bag. Let each child next obtain
the creases shown in Fig. 46(a) by folding, and open out her length of material
again. Let her then obtain the bag shape by folding the bottom edge AB up to
the top crease CD [see Fig. 46(&)]. The top portion CEFD \\'ill then be folded
down in the form of a flap over the bag portion [see Fig. 46(c) ].
SMALL PLEATED APRON FOR A DOLL. 81

—
Hems. Open out the material to its full length, and make hems about J in.
in depth completely round the bag, with the exception of the selvedge edge. Turn
down the long edge opposite the selvedge first. These hems may either be machined
by the upper standard girls or hemmed by Standard III as a revision exercise.
—
Making of Bag. Fold the bag into position as described above, and oversew
the double edges together.
—
Sewixg ox Tapes. Cut the 52-in. length of tape into halves, and sew these
on the top corners of the flap on to the wrong side of the material. Place them
so that they are continued horizontally with the top edge of the bag and can be
tied round the waist when the bag is worn b}^ the child.
—
Applying of Initials. Let each child sketch her own initials in plain block
letters on drawing paper. Examples of this kind of printing should be drawn
on the blackboard by the teacher. \\'hen the child has drawn them satisfactorily,
let her cut out her initials, pin them on to the casement cloth, which should be
of a colour contrasting with that of the bag, and cut them out in material. Next
let her tack these on to the centre of the turned-down flap, and fasten them on
by securing the edges to the material with satin stitch, using embroidery cotton
for the purpose (see Fig. 47).
6. SMALL PLEATED APRON FOR A DOLL.

Pleating taught. Further practice in the sewing on of tape strings.
Materials Employed for One Apron. —
A piece of casement cloth, cambric, print,
or other soft material 6 in. bv Hi- in. 16 in. of narrow tape. Sewing cotton.
—
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Class of 50. -2^^ yds. of casement cloth, 50 in.
wide, at lOfd. per vd. = Is. ll]d. 2| knots of tape at Is. 4d. per doz. knots =
3Jd. Sewing cotton = Id. Total cost = 2s. 3|d., or just over |d. each.
{a) Diagram. —
Let children make a dimensioned drawing of Fig. 48(a) in
their record books, entering also the dotted lines which show the method of pleat-
ing. In this pattern two kinds of creases are employed, the crest crease and the
furrow crease. The distinction between them is shown in Figs. 48(6) and 48(c).
Demonstrate to the children by folding a large piece of paper in front of them,
that the crest crease " stands up " like a ridge, while the " furrow crease " looks
like a groove or channel in the paper. The dotted line which stands for a crest
crease is crossed by short at right angles to its length, e.g., - - - -.
lines i i i
The dotted line which indicates a furrow crease has no cross-way markings, but
is simply a dotted line like those hitherto employed, e.g.,
paper sufficiently large for her to cut from it a rectangle 6 in. by 11^ in. On this
rectangular piece of paper let her first rule in the vertical line AB[see Fig. 48(a) ]
at a distance of 1^ in. from one end, and then cut off this l|-in. strip for the band.
On the 6 in. by 10 in. rectangle let her next obtain, by measuring, the position
of all the creases shown, and rule in lines to represent crest and furrow creases
as shown in the diagram. Let her now crease her paper firmly down the lines
she has ruled, making crest and furrow creases respectively as indicated by the
82 NEEDLEWORK WIIIIOUT SPECIMENS.
lines. She will then find that by tlie help of these creases she can arrange her
paper in pleats down the whole length, with crest creases uppermost turning out-
wards from the centre, and furrow creases underneath facing inwards. This
preliminary pleating in paper will be found a helpful preparation for pleating in
material.
(t) —
Cutting out in Material. Supply each set of four girls with a 46-in.
width of material 6 in. in depth. Let them divide this into four equal parts down
the selvedge way, so that each girl is provided with a portion 6 in. by 11^ in. Let
her first cut off the strip for the band. On the remaining portion let her make
«--«2!'--» v...i'w.i "-t<-iv- -iV-'<V«- --t:- -<--IV-»

t \Y-\ A
1
1
D
1
z
1 I
1
<
1
-
1 1 ;
CD
1
1
1
1 1
1
-
1 1
—
1
1
- B
* - - ~ >
1 i" -
Fig. 48(rt). Doll's Pleated Apron.
Crist CRtASE >^ c .« bc,~ C «i .6c.
Figs. 48(b) and 48(c). Pleating for Apron.
the measurements in preparation for pleating, as she did in the case of the paper
pattern. The folding of the material into pleats will now be left until the hems
have been made round the apron.
Hems. —Make hems down the of the apron about
sides J in. in depth, and
a deeper hem at the foot about in depth. | in.
Pleating. — Using the measurements previously marked off at the top of the
apron, fold the material into pleats in exactly the same way as in the case of the
paper pattern, and tack these pleats firmly into position.
—
Preparation of Band. Round the edges of the strip for the band, turn in
single narrow folds about ^ in. in depth, placing these along the selvedge edges
FANCY MAT FOR LAMP OR FERN-POT. 83
first. way to form a band. Tack

Fold this strip into halves along the selvedge
up the the folded corners, so that the back of the band
sides, leaving J in. free at
can be kept up out of the way while the front edge is tacked and sewn on.
Setting on of BAND.^Pin the front edge
of the band into position at the top of the
right side of the apron, making the band
overlap the edge of the apron for a distance
down of \ in. Tack the front of the band
into place, and hem it neatly on. On reaching
the corner, oversew the tacked-up end of the
band now reached, continuing to use the same
cotton. Next tack the wrong side of the
band into position, in such a way that it rests
on, but does not come below, the stitches
coming through from the right side. Take
great care to keep the edges of the pleats
quite flat. Hem along the wrong side and Fig. 48{d). Apron Completed.
sew up the second end of the band.
—
Sewing on of Tapes. Divide the 16-in. length of tape into halves, and sew
one portion at each end of the band, hemming the end of each neatly. A sketch
of the finished apron is shown in Fig. 48(!i).
7. FANCY MAT FOR LAMP OR FERN-POT.

Revision of cross stitch for design. Use of tape for " facing " the
turned-in edges.
—
N.B. Cross stitch may be applied to the working of initials, but it will be
found that these may be more easily and quite as effectively worked in chain
stitch. A very bold lettering can be produced by employing double rows of chain
stitch.
Materials Employed for One Mat. —
A piece of Java or oatmeal cloth y^-in. square.
Embroiderv cotton, and sewing cotton. 32 in. of tape ^ in. wide.
1
—
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Class of .50. 2|- yds. Java cloth, 30 in. wide,
at 7?d. per yd. = Is. 9Jd. Embroidery cotton in two shades = Is. Sewing
cotton = Jd. Five knots of tape, | in. wide, at Is. 4d. per doz. knots = 6fd.
Total cost = 3s. 4|d.,or a little less than Id. each.
Diagram. —-Let children enter a dimensioned drawing of the mat in their
record books.
—
Cutting out in Paper. No cutting out in paper will be necessary unless
children bring their own material from home.
—
Cutting out in Material. Supply each set of four girls with a complete
30-in. width of the material 71 in. long. Let them fold this into quarters down
the selvedge way, and cut the width into four equal sections, each girl taking one
of these.
' For varieties of Embroidery Cotton, see section on the subject in General Instructions.
84 NHEDLEWORK WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Facing Edges with Tape.—As Java cloth frays very quickly, it is as well
to face in the edges with the tape before working the design. Turn down a single,
narrow fold completely round the mat on to the
wrong side. Face the tape on to this turned-down
fold, and tack its outer edge exactly to meet the edge
of the mat. Before tacking the in.side edge to the
material below it, the tape must be folded at each
corner to form a pleat, which should lie along the
iliagonal of a square. {See AB, Fig. 49 (a), where the
underfold of the tape is indicated by the dotted line
BC.) After tacking the inside edge firmly into
position, oversew on the outer, and hem down the
inner edge. On reaching each corner, hem also along
the little pleat formed in the tape.
—
Decoration. Let children first sketch on paper
some simple design in straight lines suitable for cross
Fig. 49(a). Arrange- stitch. When the teacher has made any necessary
ment OF Mitred Corner
corrections to the designs, let the children work them
FOR Tape Facing.
out in two or more suitable colours on their mats. It
is ad\-isable for the crosses to cover at least two
threads of the Java cloth each wav, or the work will be so fine as to strain the
eyes of young children. A suitable design is shown in Fig.
49(6), in which
crosses of different sizes have been employed.
Fig. 49(b). Lamp Mat.

MATCH-BOX HOLDER. 85
8. MATCH-BOX HOLDER.
Herring-bone stitch on canvas taught for the design.
Materials Employed for One Holder. —
A 6-in. square of single-thread canvas
(not too fine) . A 6-in. square of sateen, 24 in. of ribbon, J in. wide. Embroidery
cotton (Varieties of Embroidery- Cotton
.
are described xinder General Instriiciions.)

Sewing cotton.
Quantity and Cost of Materials for
Class of 50. — 2^ yds. of single-thread
canvas, 24 in. wide, at 5|d. per yd. =
Is. Oid. If 5'ds. of sateen, 30 in. wide,
at 5fd. per yd. =9|d. 34 yds. of
ribbon at 9d. per doz. yds. =
2s. IJd.
Embroider\^ cotton =
6d. Sewing cotton
= ^d. Total cost =
4s. 6^d., or a little
more than Id. each.
Diagram and Cutting out in
—
Paper. See under preceding exercise,
but let children enter in their record
books, in this case, a dimensioned
dra\\ing of Fig. 50.
Cutting out in Material. (1) —
Supply each set of four girls with a
complete 24-in. width of canvas, 6 in. in
length. Let them divide this into Fig. 50. Match-box Holder.
quarters down the selvedge way, each
girl taking one section.
(2) Supply each set of five girls with a complete 30-in. width of sateen, 30 in.
in depth. Let them measure off 6-in. distances along the top and bottom edges
of this, obtain folds by means of these measurements, and cut along the folds.
Each girl will thus be provided with a 6-in. square of sateen.
—
Decoration by Herring-boning. Let each child work a straight row of
herring-boning along each side of the square of canvas, about 1 in. from the edge,
in order to learn the stitch. Next demonstrate to the class the method of turning
a corner. (Descriptions of herring-boning, with turning of corners, are given in
the books on Needlework by Miss Amy K. Smith and Miss A. Chamberlain, published
by Sir I. Pitman & Sons.)
Let each girl then work on the remainder of her canvas a square or rectangle
to introduce the working of the comer (see Fig. 51).
—
Making up of Holder. ^Turn down a single fold about | in. in depth round
both the sateen and the canvas on to the wrong side. Place the canvas upon
the sateen, so that the turned-in edges face each other. Tack these edges together,
and then oversew all the way round.
—
Sewing on Ribbons. Cut the 24-in. length of ribbon into halves. Take one
piece and fasten its ends A and C respectively, sewing the ends on in the same
manner as for attaching a tape. (See dotted lines in Fig. 50.) Attach the ends
of the other half at D and B in the same way. Diagonal loops of ribbon will thus
be formed from A to C antl from D to B. Secure the middle points of the loops
Fig. 51. Match-box Holder, showing Finished Appearance.
together, and suspend the match-box holder as shown in Fig. 51. The holder
here shown has been still further ornamented by sewing silk pompoms at each
corner and at the centre. These pompoms may be obtained in any colour at
2Jd. per dozen.
9. FLANNELETTE PETTICOAT WITH DOUBLE BODICE TO FIT

CHILD OF 3 OR 4 YEARS.
Herring-bone stitch on finer material. Placing of placket hole, and
making of eyelet holes taught. revision of pleating.
—
Materials and Cost of Two Petticoats. 28 in. of madapoUam, 40 in. wide, at
6|-d. per yd. =IJ yds. of flannelette, 32 in. wide, at 7|-d. per yd. = 9|d.
5Jd.
4 yds. of narrow tape = Jd. Coats's embroidery* cotton = Jd. Sewing cotton
= |d. 2J yds. of lace edging (imitation torchon) = l|d. Total cost = Is. 6d.,
or 9d. each.
FLANNELETTE PETTICOAT WITH DOUBLE BODICE. 87
From the madapoUam will be cut four pieces, each 28 in. by 10 in., two for
each bodice which is made in double material. The 28-in. measurement will, of
course, lie down the selvedge way.
Theflannelette will be divided into three portions, each 15 in. long and 32 in.
\\-ide.Divide one of these widths into halves down the selvedge way, and allow
one whole A\idth and one half width for the skirt of each petticoat. The total
< 2 8-
G c t J
;p K
9
Fig. 52(fl). Bodice Portion, showing Preliminary Folds.
Fig. 52(6). Bodice of Flannelette Petticoat.
width of each skirt will thus be 32 in. plus 16 in., or 48 in. ; and the length of each,
before the hem is turned up, will be 15 in.
<aj Diagram. —
Let each child enter dimensioned drawings of Figs. 52(a) and
52(6) in her record book. Let her also enter in figures the dimensions of the skirt.
This should be done after measuring the intended wearer. If any alteration in
length is found to be desirable, the entry in the book can be varied accordingly.
(b) Cutting out in Paper. — No pattern will be needed for the skirt, but a
complete paper pattern of the bodice must be drafted by each child. Proceed
as follows. Supply each girl with sufhcient cutting-out paper for her to cut from
it a rectangle 28 in. by 10 in. [see Fig. 52{a) ]. Let her fold this rectangle to obtain
the creases AB, CD, and EF, and then open out the paper again. Let her next
fold back the quarters GHDC and EFKJ, so that they lie under the two middle
sections of the paper. The two lines GH and JK, which form the centre of the
open back of the bodice, will now lie under the line AB. Let the child now make
the measurements shown in Fig. 52(6), draw in the outline of the pattern, and
cut along these lines through the double paper to obtain the pattern of the
complete bodice.
(c) — —
Cutting out in Mathri.ai.. (1) Bodice. Supply each pair of girls with
a complete width of madapollam 28 in. in length, and let them divide this into
halves down the selvedge way, so that each girl is provided with a piece 28 in.
by 20 in. Let each child fold this also into halves down the selvedge way, pro-
ducing doubled material 28 in. by 10 in. Let her lay this along the desk with
the 28-in. fold lying horizontally along the top. Let her open out the paper pat-
tern of the bodice to its full extent, pin it on to the double material, and cut out
the bodice.
—
(2) Shift. Supply each pair of girls with a 45-in. length (1| yds.) of flannelette,
32 in. wide. Let them divide tliis, by measuring and folding, into three lengths
of 15 in. each. Let them now divide one of these portions into halves down the
selvedge way. Each girl will then take one whole width and one half width for
the skirt of her petticoat.

—
Bodice. Run together with an occasional backstitch the shoulder-pieces of
each half separately, at a depth of about j- in. Place the two halves of the bodice
to face each other, with the wrong side of the shoulder-seams outermost. Tack
the trwo halves together down the back and round the neck. Run and back-
stitch round these at a distance in of about } in. Turn down a single, narrow
fold round each armhole on to the wrong side. Turn the bodice on to the right
side, tack together the turned-down edges of the armholes, and oversew neatly
round these.
Skirt Seams. —Do run-and-herring-boned seams. Work these similarly to
run-and-fell seams, but substitute herring-boning for hemming, and turn no fold
under in the case of the edge to be sewn down. Before commencing the herring-
boning, flatten the seam carefully on the right side, and tack into position the
portion to be sewn down, taking care that there is no fullness whate\-er on the
right side.
—
Hem. Turn up a hem Hin. deep round the bottom on to the wrong side,
and herring-bone round this.
—
Placket Opening. Cut a placket hole 5 in. long at ^ in. to the left of the
centre of the complete width. On the right-hand side of this placket, make a
broad hem about f in. wide, and of uniform width throughout. On the left-hand
side make a narrow hem about f in. wide at the top, and tapering to a point at
the bottom. The hems will, of course, be turned on to the w^rong side of the
material, and single folds only will be required. Herring-bone them down into
place. Having the skirt on the right side, fold the broad hem over the narrow
one, and secure it in this position at the bottom of the placket by two parallel
.
HANDKERCHIEF CASE OF CANVAS. 89
and horizontal lines of chain stitch or back-stitching. Neaten the foot of the
placket on the wrong side by means of a straight strengthening tape.
—
Setting Skirt into Bodice. Arrange the fullness at the top of the skirt in
pleats, so that the length of the pleated waist-line of the skirt exactly corresponds
v^nth that of the waist-line of the bodice. Carefully mark the centre of the front
of the skirt and bodice, and arrange the pleats of each half of the skirt to turn
towards the back.
Turn in a single fold on to the wrong side along the waist-line of the bodice,
and tack the top layer of this on to the pleated edge of the skirt at a distance
down of ^ in. Hem on the front of the bodice, taking care that the stitches go
through all thicknesses of the pleats. Turn the work on to the wrong side, tack
down the under layer of the bodice on to the skirt, and hem it along so that the
hemming stitches on the wrong side are exactly over the hemming stitches showing
through from the right side.
—
Drawing up Neck and Waist. Work a second row of running round the
neck-cur\'e at a distance down of ^ in., and round the waist-line at a distance of
^ in. above the skirt, to form runners for draw-tapes. Now work eyelet holes
(employing overcasting for this purpose) at the neck and waist, making the holes
on the left-hand side on the top layer of the material, and those on the right-hand
side on the under layer, each at a distance in of \ in. from the edge. Now pass
draw-tapes through the runners at neck and waist, bringing these out through
the evelet holes. Make narrow hems at the ends of these tapes, which serve for
fastening the petticoat.
Decor.^tion.—Work chain stitch round the neck and armholes of the bodice,
and round the hem of the skirt. Use Coats's embroidery cotton for the purpose.
Oversew an edging of narrow imitation torchon lace round the neck-curve and
armholes.
10. HANDKERCHIEF CASE OF CANVAS (LINED).
Stem stitch taught for design. Revision of satin stitch.

—
Materials Employed for One Case. An 11 -in. square of double-thread canvas,
an 11-in. square of coloured sateen, embroidery cotton, i
sewing cotton, 24 in.
of narrow ribbon.
—
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Class of oO. 7J yds. of canvas, 27 in. wide,
at 6|d. per vd. = 4s. 2Jd. 11 yds. of sateen, 27 in. (or 30 in.) wide, at 5Jd. per
yd. = 3s. 7|d. Embroidery cotton = 8d. 34 yds. of ribbon at 7^d. per doz.
yds. =Is. 9J-d. Sewing cotton = Jd. Total cost = 10s. 3|d., or 2Jd. each.
Diagram. —Let each child enter in her record book a dimensioned drawingCD,of
Fig. 53(a), showing, however, only the outline and the dotted lines AB, BC,
and DA. lines shown represent the ornamentation.
The other The dotted lines
indicate the positions of the folds made on the square to produce Fig. 53(6).
—
Cutting out in Paper. Supply each child with sufficient lined extension paper
for her to cut from it an 11-in. square. Let her mark A, B, C, and D, the middle
* For varieties of Embroidery Cotton, see under section on the subject in General Instructions
-
:;i.).i>i.i.'.'. '
'i'l. '.'. 1
•I I '.!l.',
-.w Ih.vt il,.- . -IIP 1 '

-1
'' [
UU'l 1"1'U(il; in 1' ' '

' '
;
ii);a>-i lal
I 1. 1 1 ! , ^ . I .
:
"
I, : - M V I . . !
r;ii 11 i/irl :'.1'[1'. ; 'i ;•:' ' ;
Ham.

Di:coRAi"ioN- — -OriuiiuciU stern ^tit''
wliich ma\- be combined '.viri

chief case shown in Fig- 5o o v/h-rc ihc bio, ,
The icacri-r .shoina usini' '.oa:

worked in satin srirch- ,
thread and rug can\'as. the method or v.-ork

Fi«. 54.
the stitch and the method oi inserting the r
Lining of Case. Turn down a single i — ceeo
completelv round both the canvas and the Place
sateen, so that the turned-in edges lace eac Tack
and then oversew round.
Sewing on Ribbons. Di\ide the 24-in. — '.
itla 01 I
and sew one piece to each oi the corners m. e same

on the match-box holder described on page ;
Completion of Case. each comer — Fold tne a

paper partem. In order to lasten the case, rose:
ODDOsite comers in pairs ^see Fig. 53, o; _.
SIMPLE COTTAGE PINAFORE FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR. 91
Fig. 54. Method of Working Stem Stitch.
II. SIMPLE COTTAGE PINAFORE FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR

{i.e., to Fit Girl of lo Years).
Stem stitch on finer material introduced. New variation of chain stitch

taught.
Materials Employed for One Pinafore. —-A large piece of casement cloth, 30 in.
by 50 in. Two smaller pieces of casement cloth, each 5 in. by 12-| in. 2 yds.
of narrow tape. 2 yds. of narrow Valenciennes or imitation torchon lace.
Embroidery cotton or silk. (See section on " Embroidery Cottons and Silks " in
General [nstriicticns.) Sewing cotton.
Materials and Cost of Two Pinafores. —
1| yds, of casement cloth, 50 in. wide,
at Is. per yd. = Is. lOd. 4 yds. narrow lace at 5Jd. per doz. yds. = 2d. 4 yds.
narrow tape = ^d. Embroidery cotton or silk = Id. Sewing cotton = ^d.
Total cost = 2s. 2d., or Is. Id. each.
(a) Diagram.— Let children enter in their record books a dimensioned draw-
ing of Fig. 55(a), which represents one half of the pinafore. This should be done
after measuring the intended wearer. Any variation in length can be quite easily
92 NEEDLENN'URK W ITHOL'T SPECIMENS.
30"
Fig. 55{a). Cottage Pinafore for Child of 10.
made, and the entry in the book should be varied accordingly-. The length of
the armhole may remain the same for all cases, and any alteration may be made
in the length below this.
{b) Cutting —
out in Paper. No paper
pattern will be required for the shoulder-pieces.
Supply each child with cutting-out paper of a
sufficient size for her to cut from it a field
Sh O U L. D E R
measuring 30 in. by 25 in. Let each girl fold
her paper into halves down its length to obtain
the centre crease. Open it out again, and obtain
Hi" by measurement the points C, D, F, and G Tsee
Fig. 55(5). Shoulder Frill Fig. 55 [a)]. Let her then draw in the outline
for Cottage Pinafore. of the armhole curve, and cut out the armhole.
SIMPLE COTTAGE PINAFORE FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR. 9
(c) Cutting out in Matekial.— If, as suggested above, casement cloth 50 in.
wide is used, no under-arm seams will be necessary, as the whole pinafore will
be cut out of one ^^•idth. Supply to each pair of girls a complete width of material,
Fig. 56. Simple Cottage PiNAioki:,, showing Finished Appearance.
65 in. in length. From this let them cut off a piece 5 in. in depth completely
across the width. Let them divide this into four equal portions each 12| in. by
5 in. for the shoulder-pieces, two for each girl. Let them then divide the 60-in.
length remaining into two equal parts across the weft way. Each girl may then
fold her large piece of material into halves clown its length, and pin the pattern
on the folded material, so that the line AB is placed to the fold. Let her then
cut out the pinafore through the double material.
Instructions for Making,

As the two open edges at the back are selvedge edges, no hems will be required
along these.
—
Hem at Foot. Make a hem along the bottom about 1 in. in depth.
—
Armholes. Face each armhole with narrow tape. (See instructions for a
doll's pinafore on page 53.)
—
Shoulder Frills. Make a narrow hem along each short end and one long
side of each shoulder-piece. Sew one of these pieces across the top of each arm-
hole as follows. Oversew one short end of the frill to the curved edge CF [see
Fig. 55(a) ], and the other end of the same piece to the edge DG.
—
Hem .\t Top. Make a hem } in. in depth along the top of the whole pinafore,
including the top edges of the two shoulder-pieces. Pass a narrow tape a yard
long through the runner formed by the hem, draw up the top, and arrange' the
fulness as shown in Fig. 56. Hem the ends of the tape neatly.
—
Decoration. Decorate the hem at the foot of the pinifore and the lower
elge of each shoalder-frill by stem stitch, chain stitch, or a combination of both
of these. The decoration sho An in Fig. 56 consists of parallel rows of stem stitch,
with rows of broken cha'n stitch worked between.
SIMPLE SLIP-OVER PINAFORE TO FIT CHILD

12.
OF 4 TO 5 YEARS.
Second exercise in stem stitch on finer material. More difficult appli-
cation OF chain stitch for the daisies in the design. Revision of
run-and-fell seam.
Materials Employed for One —
Pinafore. Â piece of casement cloth, 50 in. long
and 25 in. wide. 1-| yds.narrow tape. Embroider^' cotton or silk. (See
of
section on " Embroiders- Cottons and Silks " in General Instructions.) Sewing
cotton.
Materials and Cost of Two Pinafores. 1 yd. —
14 in. of casement cloth, 50 in.
wide, at Is. per yd. = Is. 4Jd. 3J yds. of narrow tape = |d. Embroidery cotton
or silk =
Id. Sewing cotton id. =
Total cost of two pinafores =^ Is. 6fd., or
9|d. each.

(rt) —
Diagram. Let children enter in their record books a dimensioned drawing
of Fig. 57, which represents one-half of the front of the pinafore, or one quarter
of the whole pinafore. This entrv should be made after measuring the intended
wearer. Any variation in length can be quite easily made, and the entry in the
book varied accordingly. The size of the neck and of the armhole may remain
the same for all cases, and any alteration may be made in the length below the
armhole.
(&) Cutting out in Paper. — Supply
each girl with cutting-out paper of a
sufficient size for her to cut froma field 25 in. by 25 in. From this 25-in. square
it
the pattern of half the pinafore can be cut, i.e., the whole of the front. (This is
SIMPLE SLIP-OVER PINAFORE. 95
necessan', as it would prove too difficult an exercise for Standard III children to
cut through four thicknesses of the material.) Let her fold her paper into halves
in the direction which represents the selvedge way, and keep the fold in the paper
>^- 7,"-,.-.ô I,,
Fig. 57. Slip-over Pinafore for a Child of 4-5 Years.
on the left-hand side the folded paper is now of the same shape as the outline
:
of Fig. 57. On the doubled paper let her make the measurements and outlines
indicated in the diagram, and then cut away the shaded parts. Let her then
open out the pattern to its full width.
(c) —
Cutting out in Material. Supply each pair of girls with a complete
50-in. width of casement cloth, 50 in. in length. Let them divide this into halves
7— (815c)
96 NEEDLEWORK WITHOUT SPECIMEN'S.
down the selvedge way, so that each child is thus provided with a portion 50 in.
by 25 in. Let each girl fold her material into halves across its width, thus
Fig. 58. Simple Slip-over Pinafore for Child of 4-5 Years.
producing a double 25-in. square ^îth the fold at the top. Let her then pin her
paper pattern on the double material with the shoulder-hnes to the fold, and cut
out the pinafore.
SIMPLE SLIP-OVER PINAFORE. 97
——^lake a hem round the bottom

Seams. Join the sides bv run-and-fell seams.
Hem. or 2
1 in. in depth, as
in. foundis
necessan,- after the pinafore on the intended wearer.
fitting
Neck-curve and Armholes. —Face in the neck and armholes with narrow
tape. (See instructions for the doU's pinafore on page 53.)
Decoration. —Work a border of stem stitch round the neck and armholes.
Let children plan on paper for themselves a design for the front, and, after anv
necessan,- correction by the teacher, reproduce this design on the pinafore with
the lead pencil. In the case of the design shown on the pinafore in Fig. 58, the
stems are worked in stem stitch, and the daisies are produced by means of long
chain stitches [see Figs. 59(a), (b), {c), and {d) ]. Only use the method of marking
out the divisions on the daisy shown in these figures until such time as the children
have become proficient enough to judge distances with the eye.
(«)
id)
Figs. 59(a), {b), (c), {d). Daisy Formed from Long Chain Stitches.
—
STANDARD III REPAIRING LESSONS/
1. Revision.
All the repairs described under the work of the lower standards viz., sewing
;
on of press-studs, buttons, hooks-and-eyes repairing of hems and seams, and

;
sewing on of lace.
2. Renewing of Tape-strings on Defective Garments noticed in school, or brought
from home.
This exercise involves only the sewing on of tape in such positions as at the
end of a hem or band. Various articles and
garments in the above scheme for Standard
III, e.g., bibs, sewing bag, etc., provide for the
teaching of this.
;]. Sewing Tape Loops on Boys' or Girls' Schoo

Coats, where this has not already been
done.
Lw Each loop will require a piece of tape about
4 in. long. The loops mav be sewn on by
either of the following three methods
(a) Turn under a single fold at each end
of the tape. Place the tape loop flat on the
inside of the collar, and secure each end very
strongly with two parallel rows of stitching, as
Figs. 60, 61, 62.
shown in Fig. 60. Very strong cotton, thread,
Methods of SEv^rixG on Tape
or button-hole silk should be used for this, and
Loops for Coat. the joining on and fastening off must be done
ver^' firmly.
(6) single fold at each end of the tape, and mark off a square
Turn under a
as for a tie tape. Place the loop in position, tacking the two ends in place. Secure
each end by hemming round the three edges, and stitching along the inner line of
the square, as sho\vn in Fig. 61.
(c) Place on the tape as in the case of method (6) above, but backstitch right
round the square at each end, as shown in Fig. 62.
4. Sewing Elastic on Hats brought to school which need attention.
Secure the elastic in the same manner as for sewing a tape string at the end
of a hem or band.
^ For method of conducting the lessons, see General Instructions.

98
STANDARD IV.
I. DUCHESSE SET.
Loop stitch taught for producing a decorative edge.
N.B. —
The stitch may, if preferred, be worked as button-hole stitch, and
will then form an introduction to working button-holes (see Fig. 63).
Fig. 63. Buttox-hole Stitch.
—
Materials Employed for One Set. One piece of honeycomb cloth, measuring
43 in. by 12 in., one piece 13 in. by 10 in., and two pieces each Sin. by Sin.
Embroidery silk or cotton of a sufficiently thick texture to form a firm edge. (See
Materials and Cost of Two Sets. —
Two yds. of honeycomb cloth, 24 in. wide,
at lOd. per yd. =
Is. 8d. Embroidery thread =2d. Total cost of two sets =
Is. lOd., or lid. per .set.
99
100 XEEDLEWORK WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
—
Diagram. Let children draw in their record books Figs. 64(a), S4{b), and
(a)
64(c),showing the dimensions of the various pieces, but not, of course, attempting
to draw the loop stitch round, as there shown.
n frnrnvrf rn n rm m ii nim mr
r Sill BtfORC
i
VVoRKirslG,
-
4-5" X 12"
i
-
t
0. :.lJJ,UJ.JJuLiJoLLL?JoL!oUulJîot.luiJJuUJo)J,l.U.uC
Fig. 64(a).
Fig. 64(6). Fig. 64{b).

Fig. 64(c).
DucHESSE Set.
(6) Cutting —
out in Paper. No paper patterns will be required, unless
preparatory- practice in cutting and measuring is thought necessar\".
(c) —
Cutting out in Material. Supply to each pair of girls a 2-yd. length
of honeycomb cloth. Let them divide this into halves down its length, so that
each girl is provided \vith a piece 2 yds. long and 12 in. wide. Let each child
measure and cut off a piece 43 in. long for the large portion, and then measure
and cut off from the remaining length mats of the required dimensions.
It will be seen that the squared texture of the honeycomb cloth lends itself
admirably to the introduction of loop stitch, as the lines enable the children to
make the stitches of even size, and to arrange them at equal intervals without
trouble. Their attention can be thus concentrated on the method of forming
the new stitch (see Fig. 65).
GLOVE CASE 101
Fig. 65. Loop Stitch.
Work the loop stitch (or button-hole stitch) completely round each portion of
the duchesse set at a distance in from the edge of i in. After the sewing has
been completed, take each article in turn in the left hand with the right side upper-
most. Cut away with sharp scissors the in. margin of material, close up to the
-|-
stitches, which will now form the firm edge of each section. Be very careful not
to cut the threads of the stitches.
2. GLOVE CASE.
Graduated loop stitch taught for the design.
>^'B. —
As suggested under preceding exercise, the stitch may be worked as
for button-hohng, thus forming an introduction to the working of button-holes.
Materials Employed for One Case. —
One piece of Java cloth or oatmeal cloth
18 in. by 12 in. A piece of tape If yds. long. Embroidery silk or cotton. (See
section on "Embroidery Cottons and Silks" in General' Instructions.) Coarse
Saxony cloth or fine canvas are also suitable materials.
Materials and Cost of Two Cases. — I yd. of Java cloth (usually 27 in. wide) at
7|d. per yd. = 4d. 3^ yds. of tape, \ m. wide = Jd. Embroidery silk == id.
Total cost = 5d. for two, or 2^d. each.
<a) Diagra.m. — Let children make a dimensioned drawing of Fig. 66(a) in
their record books.
{b) Cutting out in Paper. —Supplj^ each girl with a piece of cutting-out
paper sufficiently large for her to cut from it a piece mea.suring 18 in. by 12 in.
Let her divide this into thirds by measurement, as shown in Fig. 66(a). Let her
then fold the bottom edge AB up to CD, producing Fig. 66(6), and the top edge
Fig. 66(b). Glove Case (Folded)
£jJI'l|Ml|n|IM|n|l'lllM|l'l|l'i[|±
Tni,iii,iiiiiii,iii,iii,iii,iiiiiii,irr7
Fig. 66 (fl). Glove Case
(Unfolded).
Fig. 66(c). Glove Case
(Decoration).
EF down to GH. The top third thus forms a front flap to the case. This cutting
and folding in paper is a useful preliminary exercise to cutting and folding in
material.
(c) Cutting out in Material. ^Supply to each pair of girls a complete width
of material | yd. long. This will probably be 27 in. wide, or 3 in. in excess of the
width required for two cases. Let them therefore first cut off a strip 3 in. wide
completely down the selvedge way. (This waste strip can be used for practice
purposes.) Let them now cut the remaining piece, w^hich is 24 in. wide, into
halves down the selvedge way, so that each girl now has a piece 12 in. wide and
18 in. long.
TOILET TIDY. 103

—
Facing with Tape. Completely round the rectangle, turn down a single
narrow fold on to the wrong side, and face with tape about J in. wide. This tape
may be machined down at each edge by upper standard girls, or may be done by
oversewing and hemming as previously described in the case of a fancy mat on
page 84, which also gives instructions for placing the tape at the corners.
Sewing up of CASE.^Fold up the bottom third as in the case of the paper
pattern. Oversew together the edges GC and HD.
—
Decoration. Fold down the top third, and on this work a design in gradu-
ated loop stitch (or button-hole stitch), using embroidery silk for the purpose.
A suitable design is shown in Fig. 66(c). As the threads in Java cloth are very
distinct, the lengths of the stitches can be increased or decreased by equal steps
^\•ithout difficulty.
X.B. —An alternative exercise to the above which might be used to give prac-
tice in similar stitches is a handkerchief case. The dimensions of two handkerchief
cases of different shapes are given on pages 89 and 145.
3. TOILET TIDY.
Second exercise in graduated loop stitch. Open chain stitch taught.

—
Materials Employed for One Tidy. ^Two 5|-in. squares of Java or oatmeal
cloth. 24 in, of narrow ribbon. Embroidery silk of a sufficiently thick texture
to produce a firm edge. (See section on " Embroidery Cottons and Silks " in
General histnictions.)
—
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Class of 50. 3^ yds. of Java cloth (usually
27 wide) at 7|d. per yd. = 2s. 4Jd.
in. 3 doz. yds. of ribbon at 7Jd. per doz.
yds. = Is. 10^. Embroidery silk == Is. 4d. Total cost = 5s. 7Jd., or about
IJd. each.

Diagra.m. —Let children enter in their record books a dimensioned drawing
of one of the squares.
—
Cutting out in Paper. No cutting out in paper will be necessary, unless
children bring their own material from home.
—
Cutting out in Material. Supply each pair of girls with a complete width
of material 5| in. long. Let them measure and cut off from this a width of 22 in.
(Any excess in width may be used for practice purposes.) Let them cut the
22 in. into halves down the selvedge way, each girl taking one portion. Let her
finally divide this into two 5i-in. squares.

—
Decoration. Deal with each square in the following manner. Work gradu-
ated loop stitch, (or button-hole stitch) already described on page 99, round the
square at a distance in of \ in. from the edge.
Next, at a distance in cf 1 in. from the edge, outline a square in open chain stitch.
104 NEEDLEWORK WITHOUT SFECIMKXS.
This a pretty variation of ordinary cliain stitch, and the details of woridng it
is
are shown in Fig. 67 {h).
—
Sewing up of Tidy. First cut off the \ in. margin of material close up to the
loop stitches, taking great care not to cut the threads of the twisted edge. Place
Fig. 67 (fe).
Open Chain Stitch.
Toilet Tidy.
the two squares upon each other with the wrong sides facing, and the right sides
outermost. Oversew the edges together along two adjacent sides [AB, BC in Fig.
67(«) ], employing rather fine silk for this purpose, so that the loop stitches are
not dragged out of position. Place the tidy with the pair of open corners upper-
most, as shown in Fig. 67 {a). Sew on the ribbon for suspending the tidy, attaching
it with a little bow on the outer side of each point.
4. SMALL APRON GATHERED INTO A BAND.

Gathering and setting into a band taught. Sewing on of tape strings
REVISED.
For quantity and cost of material, and cutting out in paper and material, see
the instructions for a doll's pleated apron on page 81. In this case the dimen-
sions will be the same, but no measuring or folding will be needed for pleating.
Hems. —Make hems down the sides of the apron -J-
in. in depth, and a deeper
hem at the foot about h in. in depth.
HOLD-ALL OR WALL POCKET. 105
Preparation of Band. — Round the edges of the strip for the band turn in
single, narrow folds about ^ in. in depth, placing those along the selvedge edges
first. Fold this strip into halves along the selvedge way to form a band. Tack
up the ends, leaving J in. free at the folded corners, so that the back of the band
can be kept up out of the way while its front edge is tacked and sewn on.
—
Gathering and Setting into Band. Before commencing to gather the top
edge of the apron, mark the centre by making a few stitches at a point about
J in. down from the top edge.
Gather along this edge at a distance down of a little more than | in., leaving
I in. plain at either end. The method of gathering, stroking, and setting into a
band is fully described in all books dealing with the technique of school
needlework (e.g., in Miss Amy
K. Smith's and Miss Chamberlain's books).
The oversewing of the first end of the band will be done immediately following
the sewing in of the gathers on the right side, the worker continuing to use the
same cotton similarly the oversewing of the second end will follow the setting
;
in of the gathers on the wrong side.

—
Fastenings. Cut the 16-in. length of tape into halves, and sew one portion
at each end of the band. Hem
neatly the ends of both pieces.
5. HOLD-ALL OR WALL POCKET.

Second exercise in gathers. Revision of snail-trail stitch for decoration.
Materials Employed for One Hold-all. —
An 1 1 -in. square of casement cloth, hol-
land, crash, or other suitable material, and a strip of the same material 7 in. by
3 in. Embroidery silk or cotton. (See section on " Embroidery Cottons and
Silks " in General Instructions.) Two small bone rings or brass curtain rings.
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Class of 50. 5^ yds. of casement cloth or —
holland, A2 in. ^ wide, at 10|-d. per yd. = 4s. 7;}-d. Embroidery cotton = 6d.
Sewing cotton = Id. S\ doz. rings at Id. per doz. = 8|d. Total cost — 5s. lOJd.,
or a little less than IJd. each.

ia) Diagr.\m. —
Let children enter dimen-
sioned drawings of Fig. 68 in their books.
[b) Cutting out in Paper. No paper —
patterns will be required, unless children
bring their own material from home.
ic) Cutting out in Material. If the —
material employed is 42 in. wide, three
pockets and bands may be cut from a full
width of material 11 in. long. Supply each
set of three girls with a piece of material of
this size, and let them divide it down the Hold-all or Wall
selvedge way into three equal portions, each Pocket.
of which will measure 11 in. by 14 in. From
her own portion let each girl then cut off down the selvedge way a strip 3 in.
wide, from which she can obtain the required length of 7 in. for the band.
• If difficult to obtain this width, the 40 in. width may be substituted ; but then the bands
must be 2J in., not 3 in. wide.

—
Hems. Make narrow hems about \ in. in width down both selvedge edges,
and along one weft edge of the 11-in. square.
—
Setting into Band. The raw edge left at the opposite weft end will be
gathered in readiness for setting into the band. Leave 1 in. plain at either end
of this edge. This gathering must be done on the ivrong side of the material, in
order to arrange the turned-up pocket with the right side uppermost. Set in
the gathers and sew on the band in the manner described for the doll's apron in
the preceding exercise.
—
Sewing into Pocket Form. Fold up the bottom hemmed edge, so that it
lies 5 in. below the lower edge of the band, thus forming a pocket. Secure it in
this position by oversewing together the double edges at both sides of the pocket.
—
Decoration. The snail-trail stitch (a variation of chain stitch which is fully des-
cribed in dealing with the doll's frock on page 65) is a suitable stitch for decorating
the band and the edge of the pocket. It may also be employed for dividing the
hold-all into two sections. Snail-trail stitch may be worked down the centre of
the pocket, taking care that the stitches go through two thicknesses, thus securing
the pocket to the material below it (see Fig. 69).
Fig. 69. Hold-all or Wall Pocket.
Attach a ring to each end of the top edge of the band for the purpose of sus
pending the pocket. If brass rings are employed, the appearance will be improved
by working over them in double crochet with embroidery or crochet cotton. This
was done in the case of the pocket shown in Fig. 69. If bone rings are employed,
it is unnecessary to cover them.
EASY PINAFORE WITH SHOULDER-STRAPS. 107
6. EASY PINAFORE WITH SHOULDER-STRAPS TO FIT CHILD

OF 3 OR 4 YEARS.
Third exercise in gathers. Making of loop and sewing on of button
TAUGHT. Application of open chain stitch for decorating bands.
Materials and Cost of One Pinafore. —
40 in. of zephyr, 26 in. wide, at 6|d. per
yd. = 7Jd. Small items, such as embroidery cotton, tape, button, and sewing
cotton = Id. Total cost = 8Jd. (For varieties of cotton see section on the
subject in General Instructions.)
(fl) —
Diagram. Let children enter dimensioned drawings of the pinafore and
bands in their record books [see Figs. 70 (a) and 70 (fe) ]. This should be done after
measuring the intended wearer. Any variation in length of the pinafore or the
lengths of the bands can be quite easily made, and the entry in the book should
be varied accordingly. When altering the length of the pinafore, let the
S Sm o w k o c n B *N 0. B A M08.
— -si-
Fig. 70(fl)
Fig. 70(6). Pinafore with Shoulder-straps for a Child of 4 Years.

108 NEEDLEWORK WITliOlT SPECIMENS.
armhole curve remain the same for all cases, and make any variation in the length
measured downwards from this. Point out to the children that the drawing
represents the front half of the pinafore.
(b) Cutting out in Paper. — It will not be necessary to cut out any of the
bands in paper, as these can be measured and cut directly from the material.
In readiness for cutting out the pinafore, supply each child with sufficient cutting-
out paper for her to cut from it a 20-in. square. On this let her draft the pattern,
afterwards cutting it out.
[c) —
Cutting out in Material. Supply each child with a 40-in. length of
zephyr. As only 20 in. of the width will be required for the pinafore, let her
cut off the surplus strip of 6 in. in width completely down the 40 in. length.
From this strip let her first cut off a complete length 3 in. wide, ami from this
3-in. strip let her measure and cut off the strips for the bands.
She should now double the large piece of materia! into halves across its width,
pin the pattern on this double material, keeping the fold at the top, and cut out
the pinafore. Cut along the fold at the top to separate the front half from the
back half, and then cut the back portion of the pinafore into halves down its
length, as the garment is opened all the wav down the back. Any waste materia!
left from cutting tlie pinafc^re will probably be found useful for practice purposes.
——Make a narrow hem

Seams. Join the sides by means of run-and-fell seams.
Hems. | in. wide down each side of the back. Make
a hem about 1 in. deep round the bottom.
J- The depth of this, however, may
be varied as desired.
Armholes. —Face each armhole with narrow tape. The method of doing
this is described in the case of the doll's pinafore on page 53.
—
Setting into Bands. Turn a narrow fold completely round the front band,
and each back band, with the exception of the selvedge edges. Fold each into
halves down its length, and tack up the ends, leaving them open for -} in. at each
of the lower corners. Gather the tops of the front and back, in every case leaving
1 in. plain next to the armhole. Set the gathers into the bands as described in
dealing with the small apron gathered into a band on page 81.
—
Shoulder-straps. -Turn a narrow fold completely round each shoulder-band
with the exception of actual selvedge edges. Fold each into halves down its
length, with the turned-in edges facing each
other, and oversew together these edges.
Attach the shoulder-straps to the front and
back of the armholes by means of small
oversew-and-fell seams. Oversewing alone is
not a sufficiently strong means of attachment.
—
Fastening of Pinafore. Fasten at the
back by means of a loop and button. Make
the loop at the edge of the right-hand back
band in the following manner. Employ
white or cream embroidery cotton, as a firm
edge can be more quickly made from this
than from ordinary sewing cotton. Join on
Fig. 71. Making of Loop for the cotton at A (see Fig. 71), which is about
Button. J in. above the centre point of the end of the
BABY'S SIMPLE FROCK WITH MAGYAR TOP. loy
band carry the thread down and attach at B, which is ^ in. below the point A. The
;
thread should be left sufficiently loose to form a loop, which will fit over the button
selected. Pass the needle between the folds of the band back again to A. Repeat
the above process until about four strands of equal length have been formed.
Completely cover these strands with loop stitch worked closely together, from
left to right. A description of this stitch is given in the case of the duchesse set
on page 101.
—
Decoration. Decorate the edges of the bands and the hem at the foot with
open chain stitch. This stitch is described under " Toilet Tidy " on page 104.
The neck and armholes of the pinafore may also be trimmed if desired with
Valenciennes or imitation torchon lace edging.
7. BABY'S SIMPLE FROCK WITH MAGYAR TOP.

(To Fit Child of i to 2 Years.)
Fourth exercise in gathers. French knotting introduced for decoration ;
sewing on of hooks and making of loops taught.

Materials Employed for One Frock. —
Two pieces of casement cloth 16 in. by
25 in., and one piece 24 in. by 14 in. IJ yds. of galloon trimming or insertion.
2J yds. of tape i in. wide. Four hooks and eyes. Sewing cotton and embroidery
cotton. (For choice of latter, see section in General Instructions.)
Materials and Cost of Three Frocks. —
2 yds. of casement cloth, 50 in. wide,
at Is. 3-2-d. per yd. = 2s. 7d. 3f yds. galloon trimming at 2d. per yd. = 7|d.
7 yds. of tape = Id. Embroidery cotton = Id. Small items, viz., hooks and
eyes, and sewing cotton = hd. Total cost =
3s. 5d., or Is. IJd. each.

(a) Diagram. —
Let children first enter dimensioned drawings of the sections
of the pattern in their record books [see Figs. 72{a) and 72(fe) ]. This should be
done after measuring the intended wearer. It will be a very easy matter to make
«•— lk'--« p.
Magyar Yoke
And Sleev es.
Selvedge Way
.. ,j^ TQ
Fig. 72(a). Magyar Yoke and Sleeves for

Baby's Frock.
any alteration in the length of the skirt portion. .\nv alteration in depth or width
of the Magyar top should be made by additions at the end of the sleeve and a,t
the bottom of the yoke. As a general rule the neck measurements will not nncd
variation. Any alteration made should
be duly entered in the record books.
[b] Cutting out in Paper. —
Supply each girl with sufficient cutting-
out paper for her to obtain from it a
piece measuring 12 in. by 14 in. (for
pattern of Magyar top), and a piece
16 in. by 12 J in. (for the pattern of a
half skirt). It wU
be seen that the
frock is made in Magyar style, with the
yoke and sleeves cut one piece.
in
(1) Magyar —
Top. Let each girl
fold her first paper into the form of
the rectangle ABCD, shown in Fig.
72(a), keeping the fold AB at the top,
and thus producing a rectangle of
double paper measuring 7 in. by 12 in.
From this she will be able to cut a
complete right half of the Magyar top.
Let her mark off all the measurements
shown in the diagram, draw the
outlines of the pattern, and cut away
the shaded portions. So far, the back
and front of the pattern have been
cut alike. It is necessary, however, to
Fig. 72(6). Skirt Portion for cut out a deeper neck opening on the
Baby's Frock. jront half of the pattern only. This
will be done by continuing the cutting
for the neck along the lines EF, FG.
—
(2) Skirt. ^To obtain the pattern of the half skirt, let each girl take her second
piece of paper, lay it in the position shown in Fig. 72(b), place on it the necessary
measurements and lines, and cut away the shaded portions.
{c) —
Cutting out in Material. Supply each set of three girls with a 2-yd.
length of material 50 in. wide. Let them first cut off from this three 16-in. lengths
to supply the skirt portions for the three frocks. From the remaining length of
24 in., let them cut oft three portions each 14 in. \\'ide for the three tops. Let
each girl take her piece for the top (measuring 24 in. by 14 in.), and fold it into
halves down the weft way ; that is, parallel with the 14-in. measurement. Let
her then pin on her opened-oiit pattern with the centre Unes of the front and back
yokes placed to the fold of the material. Let her then cut out the top in the
double material, afterwards cutting down the fold at the centre of the back of
the yoke.
Let each girl now take her larger piece of material, which is wide enough to cut
both the front and back breadths of the sldrt. As the material is double width,
each girl can quickly divide her portion into halves, one for the front and one
for the back, by cutting down the fold. It will be best for her to deal with the
cutting out of the front and back portions separately, in order to avoid the
—
BABY'S SIMPLE FROCK WITH MAGYAR TOP. Ill'
necessity for cutting through four thicknesses of material. In the case of each
portion, let her fold it into halves down its length, and, placing the line HJ of the
pattern to the fold, proceed with the cutting out.

In this garment, it will be found simplest to set on the top before sewing up
the seams. Before doing the gathering, work the placket hole in the back width
as follows
Placket. —Cut an opening 3-^- in. long at a distance of -| in. to the left of the
centre. Treat the placket as described in the case of the flannelette petticoat on
page 88, but place the hems as for hemming, and make the broad hem | in. wide,
and the narrow one i in. wide at the top.
—
Gathers. Gather along the tops of the front and back portions of the skirt,
lea\-ing 1 in. plain, in every case, next to the edges to be joined for the side seams.
Place the front and the two back halves of the yoke on to the gathered portions,
turning down a single fold along each edge of the back opening of the yoke. Set
in the gathers on the right side. As the yoke is o^" single material only, set the
gathers on the wrong side into a tape sufficiently wide to completely cover the
raw edges of the gathered portion. In the case of the back yoke, the broad tape
must be mitred at the corner, and carried up each side of the back opening to face
in these edges, as the width does not allow for the formation of hems on either
side of the back opening. For the present, secure the unattached edge of the
tape bv tacking. It will later on be fastened into position from the right side
bv French knots.
—
Seams. Keeping the garment on the right side, make continuous seams from
the bottom edge of the skirt to the ends of the sleeves. Since, in a seam of this
kind with a curve at the under-arm, a double seam would cause puckering at
the cur\-e, it is best to simply place the raw edges together, and join them strongly
on the wrong side by a row of running and backstitching at a distance in of J in.
from the edge. Bind the raw edges with tape, which may be machined on in
order to save time by girls in a higher standard.
—
Facing Neck and Sleeves with Trimming. Make a single turn on to the
right side of the material round the neck and the bottom edges of the sleeves.
Face \vith galloon trimming on the right side, first tacking this on carefully in
order to obtain a perfect fit at the mitred corners of the square neck. The tacking
of the galloon round the bottom edges of the sleeves will prove quite a simple
matter. Oversew the outer edge of the galloon to the folded edge of the material,,
and hem down its inside edge to the material below it.
—
Hem at Foot and Decoration. Tack a hem round the bottom of the frock
from 1 in. to 1^ in. deep, according to the length required for the intended wearer.
This hem can be fastened into position in a decorative manner by working
a series of French knots on the right side, taking the stitches through all thick-
nesses. Work each knot as follows. Suppose that the cotton comes through
the material at the point A [see Fig. 73(a)]. Put the point of the needle over
and behind the thread, and twist it over and under the cotton two, three, or four
times, according to the size of the knot required and the coarseness of the thread
used. The position of the needle for the first twist is shown in Fig. 73(«) and
the completed number of twists in Fig. 73(6).
Keeping the twists of thread as close as pcssible to the point where the needle
comes out, turn the point of the needle, insert it through the material as for a
8—<6i5CJ
112 NEEDLEWORK WlTliOl'T SPECIMENS.
backstitch about two threads behind the point where it came out [see Fig. 73{c) ],
and bring it out at the spot where the next knot is wanted (point B). The
distance between tiie knots is a matter of taste, and may vary from J in. to | in.
Fig. 73{a).
Method of Working French
Knots.
Figs. 73(6) and 73(c).

Method of Working French
Knots.
Now work French knots in a similar manner to secure the tape used for neaten-
ing the wrong side of the yoke and back opening. The tacking thread already
securing the tape in position ^^-ilI serve as a useful guide-line for working the knots
on the right side of the garment.
—
Fasteners. ^The little frock is fastened by means of four hooks and loops,
the former being sewn to the under edge of the right-haad side of the yoke, and
the latter worked on the upper side of the left-hand side of the yoke, at a distance
in of about | in. from the edge.
Sew each hook in position, as shown in Fig. 74. Employ loop stitch closely
worked for attaching the rings, and fix the back of the hook firmly into position
by a few stitches under the hump at the point A, and further stitches under the
top of the hook at point B.
Before working each loop, first determine its position opposite the head of
the hook. After attaching the cotton, bring the needle through on to the right
side. Insert the needle about J in. to the right of the point where it was last
brought out, and bring it out again at the starting place. Repeat this process
until four or five strands have been formed. (The number of strands necessary
depends on the texture of the thread used.) Make the strands of equal length;
Work over them with loop stitch as sho\vn in Fig. 75. The first and last of the
BABY'S SIMPLE FROCK WITH MAGYAR TOP. 113
loop stitches should be taken through the material to prevent the loop being dragged
out of position. Fasten off by passing the needle through on to the wrong side
of the material, and making one or two backstitches. If ordinary metal eyes,
or bar loops, are preferred to the worked loops, they will be attached by working
loop stitch round the curved ends, as shown for the curves at the foot of the hook
in Fig. 74.
The finished appearance of the frock is showm in Fig. 76.
Fig. 74. Sewing on Hook. Fig. 75. Making a Loop.
Fig. 76. Baby's Si.mple Frock with Magyar Yoke and Sleeves.
114 NEEDLEWOl^K WirHorT SPECIMENS.
8. CHILD'S DUTCH BONNET.
(To Fit Child of 6 to 8 Years.)
Heather stitch taught for design. Further practice in gathers.
Materials Employed for One Bonnet. —
A piece of casement cloth 17 in. by 11 in.
lor bonnet portion, two pieces, each 17 in. by 3 in., for strings, and two pieces,
each 4 in. by 3 in., for tabs. Embroidery silk or cotton and sewing cotton. (For
choice of the embroidery silk, see section on the subject in General Instniciions.)
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Two Bonnets. —
17 in. casement cloth, 40 in.
wide, at lO.Ul. per yd. = 5d. Embroidery cotton and sewing cotton = Id.
Total cost for two bonnets = 6d., or 3d. each.
(a) Diagram. —
Let children enter dimensioned drawings of the three sections
of the bonnet in their record books 'see Fips. 77(rt), (b), and (c) ]. This should be
Fig. 77(c).
Child's Dutch
Bonnet.
* 17- »
Figs. 77(a) and 77(&). Child's Dutch Bonnet.
done after measuring the intended wearer. Any variation in length or width
from the size described can be made without difficulty, and the new dimensions
decided upon should be entered in the record books.
No paper pattern will be required for the bonnet
and strings, as they are simple rectangles in shape, and can be measured and cut
off directly from the material. A paper pattern is necessary for cutting the tabs
for the back, and therefore each girl should be provided with sufficient paper for
her to cut from it a rectangle 4 in. by 3 in. Let her obtain, by folding, the dotted
line shown down the middle of the tab. Let her then open out her paper, make
CHILD'S DUTCH BONNET. 115
on it the necessary measurements, sketch in the outline, and cut away the shaded
portions, to produce the pattern of the tab.
(c) —
Cutting out in Material. Supply each pair of girls with a 40-in. width
of casement cloth 17 in. long. As this is double width, they can easily divide
it into t^vo equal portions by cutting down the fold. Let each girl take one
piece, and measure and cut off the requisite sizes for the bonnet and strings (one
piece 17 in. by 11. in., and two pieces 17 in. by 3 in.). She will have a strip 3 in.
wide remaining, from which she may cut off an 8-in. length for the tab and its lining.
Let her double her 8-in. strip into halves across its width, pin her pattern on to
the double material, and cut out both tabs simultaneously.
Hems. —Turn down a hem J in. deep on to the right side along AB [see Fig.
77(a) ]. Turn down hems, also J in. deep, along AC and BD, but on to the wrong
side of the material. Hem along all these.
Keeping the work on the right side, measure a distance of 3 in. down the edges
AC and BD, and mark the points E and F respectively. Make a fold across the
material from E to F, so as to turn back the front flap on to the right side.
Fig. 78. Design in Heather Stitch.
—
Decoration. Now work chain stitch with embroidery cotton completely
round the hems as follows. Commencing at the point D, work the stitch on
the right side as far as F. Now put the
needle through on to the other side of the
material, so that the working can be continued
on the top of the turned-back flap. Work
round the hem of the flap until the point E
is reached. Again put the needle through to
the right side of the material, and complete
the border of chain stitch on the right side
from E to C. Next work some suitable
design in heather stitch on the turned-back
flap (see Fig. 78). This stitch is a variation
of chain stitch, and the method of working it
is shown in Fig. 79, which shows stem stitch
worked for the centre of the spray, and a
series of chain stitches worked in imitation of
heather bells.
Each girl should prepare on paper her
Fig. 79. Method of \\'orking own border design. When thishas been
Heather Stitch. corrected, and she; is able to sketch it freely
and readily, let her draw it lightly in lead pencil on the border of the bonnet, and
work over it with embroidery cotton.
Gathering at Back.— Before gathering the back, mark the middle of the
hne CD [Fig. 77(a)]. Do not gather along the whole of this line, however, but
leave 1.^ in. plain at each end. After stroking the gathers carefully, place one of
the tabs [Fig. 77(c) ] on the right side in the following manner. Turn in a narrow
fold on to the wrong side completely round the tab. Place the point G of the
tab to the point C of the bonnet, the point H to the middle point of the gathered
portion (already marked), and the point K to the point D. After tacking round,
set in the gathers in the ordinary manner, regulating the fullness carefully. Turn
the bonnet on to the wrong side, place the second tab in position, and sew it on
exactly over the first.
—
Pleating at Sides. Fit the bonnet on to the intended wearer. It will be
found that one or two little pleats are required along the sides CE and DF, in
order to supply a little fullness and to secure a nice fit. Pin these little pleats
into position, putting them a little nearer to the front than to the back of the
bonnet. Oversew them into place along the bottom edge.
—
BoNxNET-STRiNGS. Make narrow hems about ^ in. deep completely round
both strings. Pin two small pleats into that end of each string which will be
attached to the bonnet. Place the strings into position at the front ends of the
Fig. 80. Finished Appearance of Child's Dutch Bonnet.

TABLE CENTRE. 117
bottom edge of the bonnet, and oversew them to this edge on the wrong side,
taking care to commence and fasten off very securely.
—
N.B. The finished appearance of the bonnet is shown in Fig. 80.
9. TABLE CENTRE.
Darning taught for easy ornamenial design.
Materials Employed for One Centre.— -A square of canvas, Java cloth, or oat-
meal cloth, 16 in. by 16 in. Embroidery silk of two shades. (See section on
" Embroidery Cottons and Silks " in General Instructions.) The centre shown
in Fig. 81 was made of Java cloth having a very open texture.
—
Cost. 16 in. of Java cloth, 18 in. wide, at 7^d. per yd. = 3Jd. Embroidery
silk = 2d. Total cost =5id.
Fig. 81. Table Centre introducing Darni>Ig Stitch.


(a) Diagram. — Let children enter a dimensioned drawing of the centre in
their record books.
(b) Cutting out in Paper. — It is improbable that a paper pattern will be
required.
(c) —
Cutting out in Material. Supply each girl with a width of material
16 in. long. All the cutting out required is the measuring off and removal of a
2-in. strip down the selvedge way in order to produce the 16-in. square. (The
width of the surplus strip to be removed will depend on the width of the material
employed.)
Hems.— Have a very narrow hem machined round the square by girls in a
higher standard.
Decoration. — After childrenhave had a short practice lesson in darning on
their strip of waste material, they will be able to attempt straight away some
such simple design in darning as that shown in Fig. 81.
The four corner designs inside the border introduce in a simple manner the
method of crossing a darn.
—
N.B. The above is a very long exercise, and, if preferred, darning as a decora-
tive stitch may be taught on a much smaller article. A
handkerchief case, a
pincushion cover, a lamp mat, or a box-holder will afford the practice required,
and patterns of all these are given elsewhere in the book.
10. PETER PAN COLLAR FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR.

Scalloping taught. Revision of the " daisy " form of chain stitch.
Materials Employed for One CoUar.Â 13-in. square of fine Saxony cloth.
"
Embroidery' silk of two colours. (See section on " Embroidery Cottons and Silks
under General Instructions.) A strip of muslin or madapoUam, 15 in. long and
1 in. wide, for neck band. Sewing cotton.
—
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Class of 50. 9-1 yds. of fine Saxony cloth,
27 in. wide, at lOd. per yd. = 7s. 8^d. Embroiders' silk or cotton = 2s. 6d.
30 in. of madapollam, 40 in. Avide, at 6|d. per yd. = 5|-d. Sewing cotton = ^d.
Total cost = 10s. 8Jd., or about 2id. each.
{a) Diagram. —Let each child enter in her record book a dimensioned drawing
of the half collarshown in Fig. 82. Point out that the line AB
represents a fold
across the diagonal of a square, and that only half the collar need be drafted and
cut out in paper.
[h] Cutting out in Paper. —
Supply each pair of girls with sufficient paper
for them to cut from it a 13-in. square let them fold the square into halves
;
diagonally and cut down the fold. Each girl may now take one triangle, and
place it on the desk in the position of ABC in Fig. 82. Let her then make on
this all the measurements given in Fig. 82, sketch in the outline of the collar,
and cut away the shaded portions.
(c) —
Cutting out in Material. Supply each pair of girls with a width of
material 13 in. deep, and from it let them each cut off a 13-in. square. Let each
PETER PAN COLLAR FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR. 119
girlnow fold her square into halves diagonally. Let her pin the paper pattern
on to the double material wdth the centre back placed to the fold, and cut out
the collar.
Fig. 82. Peter Pan Collar.

Drawing of Scallops. —Let each girl line, parallel with the edge and
draw a
at a distance in from it round the collar except for the neck-
of ^ in., completely
cur\'e (see line AB, Fig. 83J|. Let her then draw a second hne | in. in from the
first lineand parallel with it (line CD in Fig. 83).
Fig. 83. Method of Drawing Scallops.
The scallops will bedrawn to fill the space between these lines, and will thu.s
be ^ in. in depth, with their outermost curves ^ in. in from the raw edge of the
collar. This |-in. margin is left to allow for the unavoidable fraying which takes
place at the edge while the work is in progress, and to enable the sewer to grasp
the work more easily. The scallops can be etfectively marked out by placing a
halfpenny and penny successively in the positions shown in Fig. 83. Taking the
halfpenny first, place it with its circumference to the outer line AD, and draw
round that portion of it which falls between the two parallel lines. (The dotted
lines in Fig. 83 have been inserted to show the positions in which the halfpenny
and penny respectively are placed for the drawing of the scallops.) Secondly,
place the penny in such a position that its circumference meets the circumference
of the halfpenu}' on the line CD, and again draw round the portion falling within
the lines.
Repeat this process right round the edge to be scalloped.
—
Working of Scallops. The scallops will be worked in loop stitch with one
shade of embroidery silk. (The working of the stitch is fully described in dealing
with the duchesse set on page 101.) Warn the girls to form the stitches quite
close together, and to draw the knots tightly in order to form a firm edge. They
must grade the lengths of the stitches carefully, so as to jiisf enclose the lead-pencil
outlines of the curves, taking especial care with the very short stitches occurring
near the points of the scallops.
Work a daisy with long chain stitches in each curve of the scalloping as des-
cribed in the case of a simple slip-over pinafore on page 97. In the case of the
collar shown in Fig. 84, the edge was worked with green embroidery thread, and
the daisies with golden yellow. A special point should be made by the teacher
of the choice of suitable colours of embroidery silk to either harmonise or contrast
artisticallywith each other.
Now awav with sharp scissors the margin of material round the scallops
cut
close up to the stitches, which should form a firm edge round each curve. Be
very careful not to cut the threads of the stitches.
—
Setting Neck-curve into Band. The neck-curve is placed into a narrow
band which will form a neat finish, and also be useful as a means of fastening the
collar into any dress or blouse. Proceed as follows. Place the right side of the
strip for band to the right side of the neck-curve, leaving an equal length pro-
jecting at either end. Tack the edge of the strip to the edge of the neck-curve
(compare Fig. 92, St. V), and run and backstitch the collar and neck-band together
at a distance down of about i in. Turn up the strip and flatten the join. Turn
down a narrow single fold on to the wrong side of the neck-band along the long
free edge and each short end. Double the band into halves along the selvedge
way, so that the turned-in edge falls just upon the running stitches showing through
from the right side. Tack it down into this position, and neatly hem along, joining
the two open ends by oversewing.
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STANDARD IV REPAIRING LESSONS/
1. Revision.
AH the repairs described under lower standards ; viz., sewing on of buttons,
press-studs, and hooks and eyes repairing of hems
; and seams, sewing on of lace,
tape-strings, elastic, and flat tape loops.
2. Sewing Tape Loops on Dusters, Towels, etc., in Use in School.

A tape loop on a towel is usually sewn in the middle of the short side. A
piece of tape about (S in. long and h in. wide is a convenient size. Fold the length
of tape into halves, as shown in Fig. 85. Oversew together the two selvedge
Fig. 85. Sewing a Tape Loop o.n' a Towel. (Step \.)
"fl
Fig. S6. Sewing a Tape Loop on a Towel. (Step 2.)
edges of the tape at the opposite end to the fold for a distance of almost 1 in.
Flatten out the join, producing a loop of the form shown in Fig. 86. The joined
ends form one broader width of tape, which is sewn on exactly as for a tape-string,
the upper end A of the oversewn join being placed at the edge of the hem of the
towel, as in Fig. 86.
^ For method of conducting the lessons, see Genera! Instructions.
122
STANDARD IV REPAIRING LESSONS. 123
8. Darning Thin Places in Socks, Stockings, Vests, etc.

Old stockings or woollen garments may be cut up for preliminary practice^
In selecting the woollen thread for darning, teach the girls to choose wool which
will match the garment most nearly in regard to texture and colour. It is a
common fault to attempt to darn a thin place with wool too thick for the pur-
pose the result of this is frequently to pull the garment into a hole. The darning
;
should be done on the wrong side, and running with the length of the stocking or
vest, etc. A darn for a thin place is not, as a rule, crossed by threads worked
weft way.
4. Lengthening Pinafores, Petticoats, or Cotton Dresses by the addition of a False
Hem.
A garment with a deep hem at the foot can be lengthened in this way by exactly
the depth of the hem. Unpick the hem, and flatten out the bottom of the gar-
ment if possible, press out the creases caused by the folds of the hem with a
;
hot iron. Cut the false piece about J in. Avider than the depth of the hem, thus
providing that the hemming down of the false piece shall not fall on the crease
that originally formed the bottom edge of the garment. This is advisable, as
the lower edge of a garment often becomes rubbed and weakened. It will prob-
ably be found necessary^ to join the false pieces together in order to produce a
sufficient length to go right round the bottom edge of the garment. The method
of doing this is described in the case of the Japanese kimono on page 188. When
a sufficient length has been obtained, run the edge of the false piece to the edge
of the garment on the right side. Turn under the false piece on to the wrong
side of the garment, so that the join is just out of sight when seen from the right
side. Turn under the inner hem of the false piece and hem down. In the case
of a frock, the hemming stitches showing through from the wrong side, and also
the crease which originally formed the bottom edge of the frock, may be covered
over by parallel rows of chain stitching.
5. Mending and Patching of straight portions of Flannel Garments or of Blankets.
This will be done by means of herring-boned patches, which are fully describeil
in the books on Needlework by Miss Amy K. Smith and Miss A. Chamberlain,
published by Sir I. Pitman & Sons.
In all patching, be most careful that the selvedge way of the patch lies in the
same direction as the selvedge way of the garment.
6. Use of the best parts of long Window Curtains for making short ones.
Cut the pieces to the sizes required for the short curtains, make hems of a
suitable width at the top and bottom, and run a tape through the top hem for
drawing up the curtain. A better method of drawing up and supporting a short
curtain is by means of a wooden or brass rod. In this case, make the top hem
of a sufficient width to allow for the insertion of a rod.
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u> iiuiuatc tiic lucUr. ui i.Miii^ t^. uf , lu..- th- ^.^:r.

S7,,./i 1l.-:t h-r ti-:':!. rn'ra.'ir :
Ikt own bo.'k, and diui^-u:.i'.i! Lcr -k';l;h v , -mi^. L^-f '/.vn r.:':|air.:iu':tit. ,. Sh^'r ran.;,
renu-mbcr, wlica calLiilatiu-, t- uU-.v.- i..r th- tidv;kii-^. '.r th-: book, hr.rr.u.r.
eacli gu-l, alsv). tu aJa in. t^. b .tb l^n^rb and br-adtii, lu orrb;r V> allov.- 01 a | in.
1
turniui; all the \va\- ruinid, an>i t'^ pro-,;:- a lif;!-: -Mtra roornifi':.., %o iha*. lii.';
book will sliu in wuh.uui d.iriiculf.-.
Fig. 8/ Upened-out Book-cover. F:o. S: B00K--0VE>.
Cutting out in Paper. Supply each girl v/ith sufficient paper for her
ir) —
to cut out from it the pattern of her own book-cover. She may test this pattern
on her book before cutting out the cover in material.
Cutting out in Material. In cases where girls supply their ov/n material,
'X'\ —
thev mav now pin on the paper pattern, and cut out the co\-er. V\ here schoo;
material" is used, it will probably be found less v.-asteful for the girls to hand in
their dimensions to the teacher, after these have been checked, so that she or
one of the girls can cut out all the pieces to the best advantage.
124
BOOK-COVER OF JAVA CLOTH. 125

—
Facing in Edges. ^Turn down a fold J in. deep completely round the rec-
tangle. Face this with tape about ^ in. wide, which may be first tacked and then
machined on. (The machining may, if necessary, be done by a girl in a higher
standard.)
—
Decoratiox by Feather-stitching. Before commencing the feather-stitch-
ing, let each girl place the cover on her book, and mark the position of the folds
AB and HG. Ha\-ing done this, she will be better able to determine the position
of her rows of feather-stitching.
The teacher will first demonstrate the method of working each kind of feather-
stitching in turn fsee Figs. 88 and 89). She will find it necessary to pay special
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^m
^ne;-;-: 'v;:•:::::^::::::::::::-
Fig. 88. Feather-stitching (Simplest Variety).
-iftikliiMMl
Fig. 89. Feather-stitching (Second Variety),
attention to commencing, to joining on cotton while working, and to the method of
turning corners.
Let children apply each kind of feather-stitching in turn (as it is demonstrated)
to decorating the book-cover in some such way as that shown in Fig. 90.
Fig. 90. Finished Book-cover.
It will be seen that the second type of feather-stitching is improved by the

working of French knots in the spaces of the pattern.
Finishing of Cover.— Let each girl again fold down her work along the lines
AB and HG, thus producing the form shown in Fig. 87(&). The portions ABCD
and EFGH represent pockets, into which the covers of the book will be slipped
in turn. Oversew together the edges along AD, BC, EH, and FG.
N.B. —A handkerchief case, a glove case, a pincushion cover, a lamp mat,
a box holder, or a table centre afford alternative articles on which feather-stitching
may be taught. Patterns of all these are given elsewhere in the book.
2. BABY'S SHORT FLANNEL PETTICOAT.

Second exercise in scalloping. Feather-stitching on finer material
introduced. revision of herring-boning, pleating, and eyelet
HOLES.
Materials and Cost of One Petticoat. —
24 in. of fine flannel, 31 in. wide, at Is. 6d.
per yd. = Is. White or cream embroiderv silk = 2d. Small items, viz., If yds.
of narrow tape, 24 in. of wide tape, and a crossway strip of fine calico 17 in. by f in.
= Id. Total cost = Is. 3d. (See section on " Embroidery Cottons and Silks "
in General Instructions.)
BABY'S SHORT FLANNEL PETTICOAT. 127

(a) Diagram. —
Let each child enter in her record book dimensioned drawings
of Figs. 91 (fl), 91 (6), 91 (c). This should be done after measurement of the intended
wearer (if possible). Any alteration which is found desirable in the length of the
skirt can be quite easily made. Any alteration in the length of the bodice should
8--- -
--'* 2.5"
Fig. 91 (fl). Field from which entire Pattern of Petticoat is cut.
Fig. 91 (fe). Bodice portion of Petticoat showing Preliminary Folds.
be made in the distance below the armholes. It is inadvisable to alter the width
of the petticoat, because, as it is drawn up at waist and neck, it already allows
for considerable variation in the size of the wearer. It should be noted that, if
the length of the bodice is increased, wider flannel will be needed. In the case
of any alterations made, have the amended diagrams and dimensions entered in
the record books.
—
N. B. It should be noted, however, that babies' garments in general need
not be made an exact fit at the time, but of a good average size to allow for growing.
'y— (8150

It will not be necessary to cut a paper pattern
of the skirt. In readiness for cutting out the bodice, supply each child with
sufficient cutting-out paper for her to obtain from it a portion measuring 24 in.
by 8 in. Let her fold this portion to obtain the creases AB, CD, and EF, shown
in Fig. 91(6), and open the paper out again. Let her next fold back the quarters
GHDC and EFKJ, so that they lie under the two middle sections of the paper.
The two lines GHand JK, which form the centre of the open back of the bodice,
will now meet and lie under the line AB of Fig. 9\(b). Let her next make the
measurements and draw the lines shown in Fig. 91(c). She may then cut along
P^ 12.-
Fig. 91(c). Bodice of Baby's Flannel Petticoat with Backs folded under,
and meeting at thje dotted line ab.
these lines through the doubled paper, thus obtaining the pattern of the complete
bodice.
(c) —
Cutting out in Material. Supply each child with a 24-in. length of
flannel 31 in. wide. She will see from her drawing of Fig. 91(a) the method of
dividing up this material in order to obtain the strip for the bodice, and also the
two halves of the sldrt. Let her first cut off the 8-in. strip for the bodice. She
can then fold the remaining portion into halves across the weft way, and cut along
the fold to obtain the two widths of the skirt. (If a different plan of apportioning
the material is adopted, it should be remembered that a width and a half of flannel
30 in. to 32 in. Avide is suitable for the skirt, and approximates to that obtained by
the above method.)
Let each girl now open out her paper pattern of the bodice to its full extent,
pin it on to the strip of material allowed for the purpose, and cut out the bodice.

—
Shoulder Seams of Bodice. -Join the shoulders by means of run-and-herring-
boned seams, turning the fells towards the back.
—
Backs. Turn in a single fold ^ in. deep on to the wrong side down each back
edge of the bodice tack these hems into position, and herring-bone them down.
;
BABY'S SHORT FLANNEL PETTICOAT. 129
—
Armholes. Turn down a narrow, single fold on to the wrong side round each
armhole, and herring-bone this down.
—
Facing of Neck-curve. The method of cutting a crossway piece for this
purpose is described in dealing with a child's petticoat with bodice on page 134.
Take the crosswav strip which is to form the runner at the neck, and place it flatly
round the neck-cur\-e, with its right side facing the right side of the bodice. Leave
J in. projecting at one end of the neck-curve, and tack the edge of the strip to the
edge of the neck of the bodice (see Fig. 92). Half an inch should also be left pro-
jecting for turning in at the second end. Attach the strip to the flannel by means
Fig. 92. Tackixg Crossway Piece round Neck-curve.
of running with an occasional backstitch. The row of running should be about

^ in. down from the top edge. Now turn up the strip out of the way and flatten
the join. As the neck-curve is to be decorated with feather-stitching, the runner
will not be fastened down on to the wrong side for the present ;the feather-stitch-
ing can thus be worked on the single flannel without interfering with the runner.
^ôrk single feather-stitching with embroidery silk round the edges of the arm-
holes, and round the neck immediately below the line where the runner was
attached. Now turn in the projecting ends and the long raw edge of the runner,
flatten down the strip on to the wrong side of the flannel and hem it in position,
closing the tvvo open ends by oversewing.
—
Skirt Seams. Join the two halves of the skirt by means of run-and-herring-
boned seams, turning the fells towards the back.
—
Scalloping. Draw and work scallops round the bottom edge of the skirt as
described in the case of the Peter Pan collar on page 120, using embroidery silk
of a suitable texture for the purpose. Carefully cut round the outer curves of
the scallops.
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X.i^.— A baby s .1
scallopnia; lianne!.
3. SCALLOPED MOB HAT.

To Fit Child of 6 to 10 Years.
cloth, cambno, pr.nt,

Materials Employea lor
, .r- 1 •
r^^c. _H.t.--A
One t-T't- A ?.^.- ca=^îe"t
-iif=-<-e
^.^^^^^ ^^^^^ ir.,,ruor.,

G-'
Ij >^.. a-^- ---------

or zephyr, 2u m. square. \
Frrb-o^der-.- cotton and
about 1 - J-e. U -s. o: noc^ ô.^ ^^^^^c^ ^^-^^^^ caHe:nent '
^
^ cotton ana nooon v. ere empio.â..
cloth and bro.vn embroidery
Materials and Cost of Two Hats,-20
it.. - -enaen^cW., ^^£7:^;-^^ ^l^n^^
per vd. = Sid. 11 yds. 01 insemon at 1<^- P^Jf; ' ^- _-f^r""T^tai
C0..0.- - x.^- cost =-
= V^. Embroidery cotton ana sev,-g -. i -
Id. r>er yd.

Is. S^d.^ or 7fd. each.
SCALLOPED MOB HAT. 131

(a) Diagram. — Let children first reproduce Fig. 93 in their record books,
sho^\4ng dimensions. This Avill involve some knowledge of the properties of a
circle, and the use of compasses. It will be well, therefore, to give a preliminary
lesson on these points, so that the
girls are readily able to describe
circles of varving sizes. Let theni
use compasses for small circles,
and a drawing pin, pencil, and
string for circles too large to be
described -w-ith the ordinary school
compasses. (A detailed lesson on
this is given on page 43 of the
H
diuthoTs' andii'oyk and Xeedlework,
Pitman.) The circle entered in the
record book may be described with
compasses.
(b) Cutting out ix Paper. —
This step may be omitted, as the
pattern is simple. The describing
of a large circle on paper should,
however, be practised before the
cutting out in material is begun.
For this purpose, supply each girl
with a piece of cutting-out paper
20 in. square, a drawing pin, a lead
pencil, and a piece of .string not
less than 14 in. long. Let her Fig. 93. Scalloped Mob Hat.
ascertain the exact centre of
the square by drawing or creasing along the two diagonals and marking the point
of intersection. Let her tie one end of the string tightly round the lead pencil
near its point, and then measure from the pencil 10 in. along the string when
;
she has obtained this point, let her pass the drawing pin through it. Let her
now fix the pin in the middle of the paper, so that it will act as the centre of the
circle, and, stretching out the string to its fullest length, revolve the pencil, so
that she marks out a circle.
(c) —
Cutting out in Material. Supply each pair of girls with a width of
the material 20 in. long. Let them divide this into halves down the selvedge
way, so that each girl now has a piece of material 20 in. square. On this, she
may now describe circles of 10 in., 9^ in., 9 in., and 7 in. radius respectively, in
the manner described above, and then cut round the outermost circle. The
inmost circle, that of 7 in. radius, gives the position for placing on the insertion,
which is used as a runner for drawing up the hat to fit the head. The circles of
9 in. and 9^ in. radius are used as guide-lines for marking the scallops.
—
Scalloping. Draw and work the scallops as described in the case of the Peter
Pan collar on page 120. A special point should be made by the teacher of the
choice of a suitable colour in embroidery cotton to either harmonise or contrast
artisticallv with the colour of the material of which the hat is made. Cut round
the outer curves of tlie scallops. Work three French knots or some other simple
form of decoration in each scallop.
—
Fixing on a Runner of Insertion. Place the outer edge of the insertion to
lie on the lead-pencil outline of the circle of 7 in. radius, and tack this edge down
first, completely round the circle, till the two ends meet. Finish these ends with
narrow hems. Tack down the inside edge, making little pleats at intervals, so
Fig. 94. Scalloped Mob Hat, showing Apilarance

WHEN Drawn Up.
that the insertion lies quite flat. Secure both edges by means of running, with
an occasional backstitch. •
—
Drawing up of Hat. Pass the ribbon through the runner by means of a
tape needle, draw up the hat to fit the head of the intended wearer, and tie the
ribbon in a bow at the side. Finish the ends of the ribbon by cutting them
slantwise, or by making narrow hems.
The finished appearance of the hat is shown in Fig. 94.
WHITE PETTICOAT WITH BODICE FOR CHILD'S OWN WEAR. 133
4. WHITE PETTICOAT WITH BODICE FOR CHILD'S OWN WEAR

{i.e., to Fit a Girl of 11 to 12 Years).
Cutting and working of button-holes taught second type of feather-

;
stitching EMPLOYED introduction OF FALSE HEMS CUT ON THE CROSS.

;
—
N.B. Initial practice in button-holes may be given on worn garments, bands
needing repairs, strips to form the ends of knitted braces, see the authors' Knitting
without " Specimens " (Pitman), or strips to be afterwards sewn to the backs 01
petticoat-bodices for fastening purposes.
Materials Employed for One Petticoat. —
A width and a half of 40-in. wide mada-
poUam or casement cloth, 23 in. long, and a piece measuring 15 in. by 35 in. for
the bodice. If yds. of embroidery edging, from 1 in. to 3 in. in depth. IJ yds.
narrow tape for drawing up waist. 32 in. of wide tape for facing in the waist on
the wrong side. Half a skein of flax thread or embroidery cotton. Four
unpierced linen buttons.
—
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Two Petticoats. 2J yds. of madapoUam,
40 in. A\-ide, at SJd. per yd. = 2s. 3^ yds. of embroidery edging, at 2fd. per yd.
= 9M. One skein flax thread = Id. Small items, viz., tape, sewing cotton, and
buttons = Hd. Total cost = 3s., or Is. 6d. each.

{a) Diagram. — Let children enter a dimensioned drawing of Fig. 95 in their
record books. No drawing need be made of the skirt portion, but children should
make a note of the quantity of material required for this. The entries should be
made after measurement of the intended wearer. Any necessary alteration in
length may be made in the length of the skirt, or in the distance below the armhole
of the bodice.
As the skirt is a full one, the width will need no adapting to individual figures.
If any alteration is found desirable in the width of the bodice, let this be made along
the lines AB and CD, i.e., in the length of the neck-curves. The shoulder lines
and armhole cur\es will thus remain constant except in extraordinary cases.
The armhole curve can always be further hollowed if thought desirable when
fitted on the wearer after the joining up of the seams.
The pattern of a half-front and half-back only need
be cut (see Fig. 95). No pattern will be required for the skirt. Supply each girl
with a piece of cutting-out paper sufficiently large for her to obtain from it a por-
tion measuring 15 in. by 17:^ in. Let her make on this the measurements shown
in Fig. 95, draw in the outline of the pattern, and cut away the shaded portions.
(c) — —
Cutting out in Material. (1) Skirt. Supply each pair of girls with
three 24-in. lengths of madapollam. Let them divide one of these pieces into
halves down the selvedge way, so that each girl is provided with 1| widths for
her skirt.
(2) Bodice.— Supply each girl with a width of material 15 in. long, and let
her measure off from this a width of 35 in., and cut off the strip of surplus material.
She now has a piece for her bodice measuring 15 in. by 35 in. Let her fold this
into halves down the selvedge way, and pin on the pattern in the position shown
in Fig. 95, with the fold for the centre front at the right-hand side. She may
then cut out the bodice.
—

—
Skikt Seams. Join the two portions for the skirt by run-and-fell seams,
turning the fells back on to the complete width. The half-width will form tlie
front of the petticoat.
A.
< B _ s; - . .
-S c
m^W ?s
^S,
s
-* ^'
' 1. .^ I /
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2
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H
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2 J
u
a u O
r
i
O
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ft
o
-,
,Y-
Fig. 95. Bodice of White Petticoat for Girl of 11-12 Years.
—
Hem at Foot. Make a hem round the bottom about U- in. in depth. The
exact depth of the hem should be determined by measuring the petticoat against
the intended wearer, at the same time taking into consideration the depth of the
embroiderer to be used for trimming the foot of the petticoat.
—
Placket Opening. Cut a placket hole about 8 in. long (or one-third of the
complete length), at \ in. to the left of the centre of the complete width. Treat
this placket as described for a flannelette petticoat on page 86, but place
the hems as for hemming, instead of making single turnings only as when
herring-boning is employed.
—
Bodice Seams. Join the shoulders and sides by run-and-fell seams, in every
case turning the fells towards the back.
—
Facing of Neck and Armholes. Prepare strips of crossway material f in.
wide for facing the neck and armholes. A piece about 17 in. long -will be required
for the neck, and a piece about 16 in. long for each armhole. The follo\\-ing is a
good method of preparing the crossway pieces. By means of a long ruler or T-
square draw parallel lines, f in. apart, diagonally across a square of material,
and then cut along the lines (see Fig. 137, " Japanese Costume," on page 188).
.
WHITE PETTICOAT WITH BODICE FOR CHILD'S OWN WEAR. 135
Take the strip of crossway material which is to form the facing at the neck, and
place round the neck-curve, with its right side facing the right side of the bodice.
it
Leave i in. projecting at one end of the neck-curve, and tack the edge of the strip
to the edge of the neck of the bodice (see Fig. 92, " Baby's Flannel Petticoat,"
on page 129). Half an inch should also be left projecting for turning in at the
second end. Attach the strip to the bodice bv means of running with an occa-
sional backstitch. The row of running should be at a distance down of ^ in. from
the top edge. Now turn up the crossway piece and flatten the join. Turn in
the projecting ends and long, raw edges of the crossway strip, flatten down the
strip on to the ^^'Tong side of the bodice, and hem it in position, oversewing up
the open ends.
Treat the facing-in of the armholes in a similar manner.
Hems at Back.—Make a hem of from J in. to 1 in. in depth (as may be
required) do\\'n each side of the back of the bodice.
—
Setting Skirt ox to Bodice. Turn up a single fold J in. deep on to the
wrong side along the bottom edge of the bodice, and set the fullness of the skirt
into it by means of gathers. Leave about 6 in. plain at the centre of the front
width of the skirt. After sewing on the bodice on the right side, set the gathers
on the wrong side into a tape (or strip of material) sufficiently wide to cover the
raw edges attach this tape at both top and bottom edges by means of hemming.
;
Close the open ends by oversewing.

The following is an alternative method of attaching the skirt to the bodice.
First set the fullness of the skirt into an open band, the finished length of which
is equal to the distance round the bottom of the bodice. Insert the bodice between
the tr^vo open portions of the top of the band ;
place the right side of the bodice
to the right side of the front portion of the band, sew along securely by means of
running with an occasional backstitch, flatten the join, and hem the back of the
band down over the raw edges.
—
Decoration. Ornament the neck, armholes, and hem with feather-stitching,
using flax thread or Coats 's embroidery cotton. Employ either of the two varieties
of feather-stitching already learned (see Figs. 88 and 89). Sew the edging of
embroider\' round the foot of the petticoat by means of a run-and-fell seam. An
alternative plan is to let higher standard girls machine on the edging after it has
been placed and tacked into position.
—
Fasteners at Back. Draw up the waist with a tape, as described in the
case of the baby's flannel petticoat on page 130. The working of a button-hole
at the neck would prove too difficult for girls at this stage, owing to the thick-
nesses of the material caused by the facing in ; they may, therefore, work a loop
on the right-hand a simple pinafore with shoulder-straps
side, as described for
on page 108, Fig. 71. This loop should be made sufficientlj' large to fit over a
button }i in. in diameter.
Work three button-holes on the right-hand hem at equal intervals between
the neck and waist, cutting them in the direction of the length of the hem, and
about f in. long. Work these button-holes with two round ends. (Detailed
instructions for working button-holes of all kinds are given in the books on Needle-
work by Miss Amy K. Smith or Miss A. Chamberlain, published by Sir I. Pitman &
Sons.) Attach the buttons in po.sition on the left-hand side, using buttons about
J in. in diameter. A good method of sewing these on is by means of two
parallel rows of stitching. Any other recognised method may be employed if
preferred
BABY'S DRAWERS.
Use AND APPLICATION OF STRENGTHENING TAPE TAUGHT. PrACTICK IN
BUTTON-HOLES AND FEATHER-STITCHING.
Materials Employed for One Pair. —
One piece of flannelette or longcloth 25 in.
by 17 in., one piece lli in. bv 3 in. for front band, and one 12J in. by 3 in. for
back band. 1^ yds. of narrow imitation torchon edging. Embroidery cotton and
sewing cotton. (For varieties of embroidery cotton, see section in General
Instvuctioyis.)
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Six Pairs. 2\ yds. of flannelette or longcloth,
36 wide, at 74 d. per yd. = Is. 7.Id.
in. 7i yds. of lace edging at Id. per yd. =
7.|d. Embroidery thread and sewing cotton = 2d. Total cost = 2s. 5d., or
about 5d. per pair.

(a) Diagram.— Let children enter their record books a dimensioned drawing
in
of Fig. 96.
{b) Cutting out in Paper. — Supply each with girl cutting-out paper
sufficient
for her to obtain from it a piece measuring 25 in. by 17 in. Let her fold this into
Fig. 96(a). Drawers for Baby aged H lu 1 ^ lai ? old.
halves across its width, as shown in Fig. QQ{a), and place it on her desk or a cutting-
out table, keeping the fold at the bottom. Let her next make the necessary
measurements, draw in the outline of the pattern, and cut away the shaded por-
tions in the double paper. She will see that she has not yet cut along the lower
curved outline at the waist of the front portion. Before doing this, let her open
out her paper and cut along this line through the single paper only.
No paper pattern w411 be needed for the bands, as they can be measured and
cut off directly from the material.
BABY'S DRAWERS. 137
(c) Cutting out in Material. —A

length of 75 in. will cut six pairs, exclu-
sive of bands. From the remaining portion of the 2 J yds., the six pairs of bands
can be cut, and these may be dealt with last.
In readiness for cutting out the trunk portion, supply each pair of girls with
a \\-idth of material 25 in. long. Let them cut off from this any width in excess
of 34 in., and then di\dde the 34-in. width into halves down the selvedge way.
Each girl may now place her opened-out paper pattern on her length of material,
pin it into position, and cut out the garment in the single material.
For the cutting of the bands, it will be found convenient to cut six strips, each
3 in. \vide and 12J in. long, from the portion reserved for this purpose. As these
strips run -with the selvedge, they may be torn down. Supply each girl with two
strips, and from one of these let her cut off the surplus length of 1 in., to obtain
the 11 J in. length for her front band.

Seams. —
join the sides together for a distance of 3i in. up from the bottom
by means of run-and-fell seams.
—
Side Openings and Leg Curves. Turn down narrow hems round the side
openings, making these about ^ in. wide at the top, and letting them taper to a
point at the bottom, where they meet the seam.. Finish the lower point of each
side opening bv a strengthening tape. This will effectively neaten the opening,
and prevent it from tearing down. For this purpose, use tapes each about 3 J in.
in length, and | in. wide. The method of sewing on a strengthening tape is given
in the books on Needlework by Miss Amy K. Smith and Miss A. Chamberlain,
pubUshed bv Sir I. Pitman & Sons.
Make a hem } in. deep round each leg-curve. Fell down all hems unless the
garment is made of very bulky flannelette. In such a case, turn down single
folds and herring-bone.
—
Setting into Bands. ^The top edges
»- -1,^- ,
of both front and back are set into
bands. As the fu'lness is not sufficient
for the gathers to extend along the whole rR o N T Ban, D 2."
length, leave 3 in. ungathered at each

end of the front waist-line, and 4 in. at
each end of the back. The method of
setting in gathers is fully described in the
.I24"
section dealing with a small apron
gathered into a band on page 83.
Button-holes. —At each end of both B -"^ c -^ B A KJ D
front and back bands work a button-

i
hole J in. long, or J in. longer than the
diameter of the buttons on the little stays îg. 96(6). Bands for Baby's
to which they will be attached. Cut Drawers.
these button-holes parallel w4th the
length of the bands, and Avork each with a square inner end and a round
outer end.
In the centre of the front band, work a vertical button-hole with two round
ends.
—
Decoration. Work a row of single feather-stitching round each leg-curve,
and then sew the lace edging round, easing it on slightly. A very pretty finish
can be effected by using crochet edging made cither by Standard \' children them-
selves or by a higher class. A suitable pattern is described in Ex. 9, St.
girls in
VII, on page 202 of Knitting without " Speciitiens," published by Pitman. In this
case, narrow ribbon may be run through the beading at the top of the edging.
If the drawers are for a baby bo>-, vary the treatment as follows. Omit the
side seams, and put crossway false hems all down each side. Fasten the sides
by means of buttons and button-holes, placing the button-holes on the front hems
and the buttons on the back. Let the front waist-band be the longer, as the
garment is unfastened from the front.
6(a). full COOKING OR SEWING SLEEVES.

Second exercise in applying strengthening tapes. Revision of eyelet
holes, gathers, button-holing, and feather-stitching.
Materials Employed for One Sleeve. —
A piece of holland, casement cloth, or
apron hnen, 15 in. by 18 in., and a piece 8 in. by 3 in. 24 in. of narrow tape, and
sewing cotton.
Quantity and Cost of Materials for One Pair of Sleeves.
material at 8.U1. per yd. = 3.^d.
—
16 in. of 40-in. wide
Small items as tape and sewing cotton = Jd.
Total cost == 4d.
<?)•.
..,
1 1 L.
Mk- X ;
,
1
5
— 4----i-
^B -i -!
,
Fig. 97(c).
Cuff for full
Cooking or Sewing
Fig. 97(a). Fig. 97(6). Sleeve.
Full Cooking or Sewing Full Cooking or Sewing
Sleeve (Measuring Method) Sleeve (Folding Method).

(a) Diagram. —
Let each child enter in her record book a dimensioned drawing
of either Fig. 97 (a) or Fig. 97(6) according to method selected. If the pattern
by paper-folding is chosen, let her also indicate the creases by faintly dotted
lines.
FITTED COOKING OR SEWING SLEEVES. 139
(b) Cutting out in Paper.— Supply each girl with sufficient cutting-out paper
for her to cut from a portion measuring 15 in. by 8 in. Let her fold this into
it
halves as shown in Figs. 97 {a) and 97 (b), and place it on the desk with the fold
on her right-hand side. If the pattern by measurement is selected, let her obtain
the necessars^ points with her ruler, draw in the outline of the pattern, and cut
awav the shaded portion in the double paper. If the folding method is employed,
let tier obtain all guide-lines by folding, open out her paper, and, keeping the fold
at her right-hand side, mark all necessary points by the aid of the creases. Let
her then cut away the shaded portions in the doubled paper.
Supply each girl with a 16-in. length of the
40-in. wide material. Let her first cut off a strip 16 in. long and 3 in. wide, and
di\-ide this into halves to obtain the two cuffs. Let her fold the remaining portion
of material into halves down the selvedge way, and pin on her opened-out paper
pattern, placing the 15-in. measurement to lie down the selvedge way. As the
material is a little wider than the pattern, let any excess in width project at the
folded side, so that as large a piece as possible of the unused material shall be
left intact. She may now cut out the pair of sleeves at once, by cutting round
the pattern in the double material.

— Join each sleeve
Seams.
at the wrist.
b\^ means of a run-and-fell seam, leaving 3J in. open
Wrist Opening. — Finish this by means of narrow hems tapering to a point

at the seam. Neaten the opening by means of a strengthening tape. (See what
is said about side openings in the preceding exercise.)
—
Setting on Cuff. Tack up the band, and set the fullness at the wrist into
it by means of gathers. When gathering the wrist-line, leave 1 in. plain at each
end of it. A full description of the method of making the band and setting in the
gathers, is given under the heading " Small Gathered Apron " on page 83.
Runner at Top.— -Make a hem round the top of each sleeve, not more than
I in. in depth, through which to pass a tape for drawing up the sleeve and tying
it round the arm. ^lake two eyelet holes on the upper thickness of the hem, at
the centre of the back of the sleeve, through which the ends of the tape may be
parsed. Fasten the tape firmly at the seam by a few stitches, to prevent its being
drawn out. If preferred, elastic may be passed through the runner at the top as
a substitute for tape.
—
Button-hole and Button. In the case of each sleeve, make a button-hole
at the under end of the band (with a square inner and a round outer end), and
sew on a button to correspond at the opposite end of the band. If this is correctly
carried out, each sleeve will fasten from within outwards.
6(b). fitted cooking OR SEWING SLEEVES.

Method of drafting a shaped sleeve with elbow curve introduced.
Materials Employed for One Sleeve. —A piece of print, apron linen, or casement
by 15 in.
cloth, 12 in. Sewing cotton.
Quantity and Cost of Materials for One Pair of Sleeves. — 12 in. of 30-in. wide
material at TJd. per yd. = 2|d. Sewing cotton = ^d. Total cost = 2|d.
140 NEEDLEWORK WIIIIOUT SPECIMENS.

{a) Diagram. — Let children make a dimensioned drawing f)f Fig. 98 in their
record books.
(b) CuTTi.vG OUT IN Paper. —
.\s the two lialves of the
pattern exactly correspond, only one half -sleeve need be
cut out in paper. Supply each girl with a piece of paper
sufficiently large for her to obtain from it a piece measuring
12 in. by 7 J in. On this, let her mark off the dimensions
shown in Fig. 98, draw the outline of the pattern, and cut
away the shaded portions.
(c) —
Cutting out in Material. Supply each girl with
a 12-in. length of material 30 in. wide. Let her divide this
into halves down the selvedge way. Each sleeve may be
then cut out separately, to avoid cutting through four
thicknesses of material. Let her proceed as follows in the
case of each sleeve. Fold the material for one sleeve into
halves down the selvedge way, pin on the pattern in the
position shown in Fig. 98, and cut round the pattern in the
Fig. 98. Fitted double material.
Cooking or Instructions for Making.
Sewing Sleeve. —
Seams. Kun-and-fell, sew-and-fell, or French seams
may
be employed for joining the halves of each sleeve.
Hems.—Make hems i in. deep to finish the top and bottom edges of the
sleeve.
It will be observed that this pattern has the advantage of requiring no tape
strings. If it is found that the .sleeve is not sufficiently close-fitting to keep on
the arm without fastening, it may be secured to the dress sleeve below it, by means
of a small safety-pin at the upper edge.
7. HEM-STITCHED LAMP MAT.

Hem-stitching taught, and second variety of graduated loop stitch
introduced.
Materials Employed for One Mat. —A 9-in. square of fine canvas. Coloured
embroidery cotton. (See section on " Embroidery Cottons and Silks " in General
Instructions.)
4J yds. of fine single-thread
canvas at lO^d. per yd. = 3s. 8|d. Suitable embroidery cotton = lOd. Total
cost = 4s. Q\d.., or a little over Id. each.
(a) Diagram. —Let each child make a dimensioned drawing of the mat in her
record book.
(6) No paper pattern is needed.
—
Cutting out in Material. Very little practice in cutting is afforded by
(c)
this exercise, and it is difficult to arrange for individual work without waste of
material. It wU be as well, therefore, to allow two or three girls to prepare the
squares for the w'hole class, \vith the exception of those who bring their own
material from home. They must be verj- careful to cut the edges of the canvas
-
HEM-STITCHED LAMP MAT. 141
level to a thread, or the hems wll not be perfectly straight when the threads have
been drawn.
Hems and Hem-stitching. —
The hems all round are 1 in. in depth. As Jin.
is required for the turning in of the raw edge, measure in 1 J in. and mark this
first
off from each edge before commencing to draw the threads. These threads will
be drawn helow the portion left for the hem. In the mat shown in Fig. 99, the
Fig. 99. Hem-stitched Lamp Mat.
portion from which the threads were drawn measured about \ in. in width. First
turn down and tack the hems along two opposite edges, taking care that the folded
edge of the hem lies exactly along the top thread drawn. Next turn down and
tack the hems along the other two sides in the same way.
Hem-stitch completely round these hems, and across the corners in one of the
two following ways —
First Method. —
Fasten on as for ordinary hemming at the extreme right hand
of the work, with the cotton coming out about two threads above the edge of the
Fig. lOOi'aj. Fig. 100(6).

Hem-stitching (First Method).
hem. * Insert the needle between the open threads, exactly under the place
where the cotton is brought out, and, passing it from right to left horizontally,
take up upon it a group of about four threads and draw the cotton through [sec
Fig. 100(a) ]. The number of threads selected for a group must be adhered to
throughout. Put the needle back over the four threads into the same place as
before, and, passing it behind the four threads taken up, make a hemming stitch,
bringing the needle out about two threads above the edge of the fold, and directly
above the point where the needle was brought out from the horizontal stitch
[see Fig. 100(6) ]. The cotton should be drawn tightly enough to draw the threads
up into a cluster. Repeat from * to the end of the line of open threads.
—
Second Method. Join the cotton on as was described in the first method.
Hold the hem upside down, and, in this case, work from left to right, holding
the drawn threads at a tension over the forefinger of the left hand. * Place the
Fig. lOl(rt). Fig. 101(&).

Hem-stitching (Second Method).
needle behind a group of about four threads from right to left, just above the hem
[see Fig. 10 !(«)]. The number of threads selected for a group must be adhered
to throughout. Insert the needle in the same place as before, and take up a small
portion of the edge of the hem, as though working a hemming stitch upside down
[see Fig. 101(6)]. This will draw the group of
threads together into a cluster. Repeat from * to
the end of the line of open threads.
—
Inner Edges. Hem-stitch also round the
inner edges of the open portion [see Fig. 101(c) ].
This is necessary to strengthen the second edge,
and to prevent the long threads washing down
in wear.
Decoration in Loop Stitch. —
Work a design
in loop stitch inside the hem-stitched border.
The pattern shown in Fig. 99 consisted of groups
Fig. 101(c). Inner Border of three long stitches and three short stitches
Hem-stitched. w'orked alternately.
—
CHAIR BACK. 143
8. CHAIR BACK.
Second exercise in hem-stitching on coarse material. Design employing
OPEN LOOP stitch OR BUTTON-HOLING FOR EDGES OF LEAVES, AND DARNING
FOR FILLING IN LEAVES.
—
Materials Employed for One Chair Back. A piece of Java, oatmeal cloth, or
crash, 35 in. by 19 in. Embroidery silk or thread in five or six shades. (See
Cost. —
35 in. of Java cloth (probably about 24 in. wide) at 10|d. per yd. =
lOJd. Embroidery silk or thread = 4d. Total cost = Is. 2-|-d.
{a) Diagram. —
Let each child make a dimensioned drawing of the chair back
in her record book.
(6) No paper pattern is needed.
(c) —
Cutting out in Material. Supply each girl with a 35-in. length of
material with the ends cut perfectly level, and let her cut off from this a width
of the required size. She must be careful to keep her cutting level to a thread,
to ensure that the hems Anil be perfectly level after the drawing of the threads.
(The waste strip will be found useful for practice in the drawing of threads, placing
of hems, and Avorking the \-arious kinds of hem-stitching and drawn-thread work,
as these are introduced.)
—
Hems and Hem-stitchixg. The narrow hems down the sides are f in. wide,
and the deep hems at the ends \\ in. Deal with the long edges first. As J in. is
required for the first turning in of the raw edge, measure in and mark off 1 in.
from each edge, before commencing to draw the threads. These threads Avill be
draAvn below the 1-in. Avidth left for the hem. In the chair back shown in Fig. 102,
the portion from AA-hich the threads Avere drawn measured ^^ in. in width.
Before draAA-ing the threads for the deep hems at the ends, it will be found
necessan.' to measure in from each end a distance of 2f in. (This allows for the
first turning in of ^ DraAV out the threads as in the case of the long sides.
in.)
Turn doAvn and tack the hems completely down the long edges first, taking care
that the folded edge of the hem lies exactly along the top thread drawn.
Next turn doAA-n and tack the deep hems for the ends in the same way. Hem-
stitch completely round the hems and across the corners, using either of the methods
described under " Lamp Mat " in the preceding exercise. Hem-stitch also round
the inner edges of the open portion.
—
Working of Design. Let the girls now prepare on paper a floral design in
connection AA-ith their nature study Avork. After any necessary corrections by the
teacher have been made, this may be sketched directly on to the chair back. The
design shown in Fig. 102 AA-as Avorked in five shades of silk, viz., three shades of
green, one of crimson, and one of pink. It was based on the wild rose, and was
worked in the folloAving manner
Stem stitch AA'as employed for the edges of the border, the scrolls, and the
stems of the lea\'es and flowers. (The medium shade of green was used for this.)
Chain stitch AA-as employed for outlining the leaves. (A medium shade of green
again used.)
Darning was used for the filling in of the leaves. (For this the darkest shade
of green AA-as employed.)
:o — {815CI
HEM-STITCHED HANDKERCHIEF CASE. 145
Open feather-stitching was used for the veining of leaves. (Medium shade of
green.)
Opeyi loop stitch was used to represent the serrated edges of the leaves. (Palest
shade of green. "l
French knotting was used for the petals and stamens of the flowers, and for
the circles in the border. (The crimson silk was used for the petals, and pink for
the stamens. The crimson and pink were used alternately for the border circles.)
If the Java or oatmeal cloth is very open in texture, French knotting will be
too difficult to work, and some other suitable stitch {e.g., graduated open loop
stitch, or satin stitch) may be substituted for working the flowers.
—A
A'. B. table-centre is an alternative and shorter exercise which may be
employed to give practice in the above stitches. Suitable dimensions for this
are gi\en elsewhere in the book.
9. HEM-STITCHED HANDKERCHIEF CASE.

New variation of hem-stitching on finer material taught. Method of
FILLING IN NARROW LEAVES BY HERRING-BONING INTRODUCED IN DESIGN.
Materials Employed for One Case. —
One piece of Saxony cloth or linen, 11 in.
square, and one piece 17 in. by 8i in. Embroidery silk or thread in four or five
shades. (See section on " Embroidery Cottons and Silks " in General Instructions.)
—
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Twelve Cases. 3} yds. of Saxony cloth, 27 in.
wide, at 7^d. per yd. = 2s. 44-d. Embroidery thread = 8d. Sewing cotton = |d.
Total cost = 3s. 0}d., or just over 3d. each.
(a) Diagram.— Let each child make in her record book dimensioned copies
of Figs. 103(fl) and 103(6). Point out that the dotted line in Fig. 103(&) represents
the fold which will form the bottom of the bag portion.
Fig. 103(a). Fig. 103(6).

Hem-stitched Handkerchief Case.
(b) No paper pattern will be needed.

(c) Cutting out in Material. — It will be found convenient to let the whole
class cut out the front flaps first. For this purpose, supply to each pair of girls
a width of material 11 in. deep. From this let them each cut off an 11-in. square.
(Each width thus supplies two girls.)
—

Next, have the longer portions for the bags cut as follows
Supply to each set of three girls a width of material 17 in. deep. From this,
let them each cut off a width 8J in. across, using the full 17 in. for the length of
this bag portion.
(a) Hems round Front Flap. —
The hems are to be 1^ in. deep, and \ in. is
required for the first turning in of the raw edge therefore, measure in and mark
;
off a distance of 2^- in. from each edge of the front flap before drawing the threads.
These threads will be drawn below the 2J in. width for the hem. In the handker-
chief case shown in Fig. 104, seven threads, which gave a width of ^'f, in., were
drawn along each side. Turn down and tack the hems along the selvedge edges
first, taking care that the folded edge of the hem lies exactly along the top thread
*ij*»«.'KiJlitfm'*i«viiiii(/uMH(j.i. ...Si !,.,. (.j^
Fig. 104. Finished Appearance of Handkerchief Case.
drawn. In order to avoid bulkiness in the corners, it is advisable to cut away

the unnecessary portions at the ends of this first pair of hems, before turning down
the second pair. (See Fig. 105, where the diagonally-shaded section shows the
portion of the top layer of the hem to be cut away. The horizontal and vertical
shading indicates the drawn threads.) Next fold down and tack the hems along
the remaining sides. Hem-stitch completely round the hems and across the comers,
as described in the case of the lamp mat on page 141 Vary the method of treating
.
the inside edge of the open portion, by working loop stitch between the groups,
instead of hem-stitching. (See Fig. 106, which represents the wrong side of the
work.) The details of working loop stitch are described in the case of the duchesse
HEM-STITCHED HANDKERCHIEF CASE. 147
set on page 101. The loop stitch is employed to strengthen the second edge, and
to prevent the long threads washing down in wear.
—
Design for Flap. Let children prepare a suitable design, on drawing paper,
based on their nature work, choosing a plant with simple, slender leaves, such as
will be suitable for outlining in stem stitch and filling in with herring-bone stitch.
"\Mien any necessary corrections have been made by the teacher, let each child
copy her drawing directly on to the material. The design shown in Fig. 104 was
based on the tulip. Five shades of embroidery silk were used for working it,
— ^two shades of green, two shades of pink, and crimson.
Hem,
llllBllllimrMiiiinrinTmimiTnii
PO «. T 1
O N
TO fO^>
S I OE H E,-
Fig. 105. Fig. 106.

Cutting awav Portion of Inner Edge worked with
Hem-stitched Corner. Loop Stitch.
Chain stitch was employed for outlining the leaves, using the darker shade of
green silk.
Herring-boning was employed for filling in the leaves with the lighter shade of
green.
Stem stitch was utilised for the stalks of the flowers, the lighter shade of green
being employed.
The outlines of the flower petals were worked in loop stitch, pale pink being
employed for the outer petals, and a deeper shade of pink for the inner. The
space between the inner and outer petals was filled in with French knots, crimson
silk being used for this.
Darning was employed to fill in the inner petal of the large centre flower, using
the paler shade of pink.
Bag Portion. Fold the — length of material into bag form, as indicated
17-in.
by the dotted Join the sides by French seams.
line [Fig. 103(6) ]. (See descrip-
tion of the shoe bag on page 47.) These may be machined, either by the Standard
V girls themselves, or by the children in a higher class. Make a hem round the
top f in. deep.
—
Sewing on of Flap. Oversew the top edge of the flap to the top of the back
edge of the bag on the wrong side.
—
[N.B. A glove case is an example of a suitable alternative article affording
practice in the above types of stitches. For dimensions and cutting out of this,
ses under Exercise 2, Standard IV.j
-
STANDARD V REPAIRING LESSONS/

1. Revision.
All the repairs described under lower classes viz., sewing on of buttons, press
;
studs, and hooks and eyes repairing of hems and seams

; sewing on of lace,
;
tape strings, elastic, and tape loops darning thin places, lengthening by false
;
hems, patching in liannel, and adapting long window curtains for short ones.
2. Sewing on Hooks and Eyes by means of Loop Stitch.
This is a more finished method of attaching hooks and eyes than the over-
casting method taught in Standard II. A full description of the process is given
in the case of the baby's frock on page 113.
3. Mending of Torn Plackets, Side Openings, and Wrist Openings, by strengthening

with tape, etc.
of employing tape for mending are suggested
Methods under the section in
General Instructions which deals with repairing le.s.sons.
4. Mending of torn Button-holes, and of holes
caused by the tearing away of Buttons.
The torn end of a button-hole may be mended
t-^/, -,
by means of a small piece of tape. Fold this
over the torn end, and hem it down on both
sides of the garment. A hole made by tearing
off a button can be mended by means of two
squares of tape, sewn one on to the right side
and one on to the wrong side of the garment.
To prevent the tearing of buttons from
children's garments, these maybe strengthened
when first made by sewing a square of tape
on the wrong side of the garment, below the
button, before sewing the latter on.
o. Strengthening Corners of Sheets by wide
tapes.
Such strengthening tapes should be put on
Fig. 107. Strengthening
THE Corner of a Sheet by new
sheets in order to prevent tearing at the
comers, caused by the pressure of the clothes
A Tape.
peg on washing day. The corners of the tapes
should be mitred, as shown in Fig. 107, where
the dotted line AB represents the under fold of the tape. Each corner will
require a piece of tape 9 in. or 10 in. long and f in. wide. The outer edge of the
tape should be secured to the edge of the sheet by oversewing, and the inner edges
hemmed down on to the sheet below it on the wrong side.
6. Darning Holes in Vests, Stockings, Woollen Under-bodices, Gloves, etc.
Old stockings or woollen garments may be cut up for preliminary practice.
Let the children at first commence with very small holes. In selecting the woollen
* For method of conducting the lessons, see General Instructions.
148
—
STANDARD V REPAIRING LESSONS. 149
thread for darning, teach girls to choose wool which will most nearly match the
garment udth regard to size and colour. A common fault is to attempt to darn
a hole with wool too thick for the texture of the article. This results in the tearing
away of the portion of the garment round the hole. Note also the following points
with regard to the darning
(a) As a rule, darn on the wrong side.
(6) Leave short loops at the ends of the rows, as long loops are unnecessary
and look untidy.
(c) See that no vertical rows of loops are missed in darnings or the strands
\Aill be too far apart and the hole not properly filled up.
(d) It is most important that the darn shall cover not only the hole, but also
a considerable margin round it. This will ensure the attachment of the darning
threads to a thoroughlv strong portion of the garment, and will prevent any break-
ing away of the material round the darn. This is a point which n'lany beginners
in darning fail to notice, and therefore its importance should be continually
impressed upon the girls during their mending lessons.
{e) It is not a good plan to arrange the ends of the rows in one straight line
right across the darn. Commence by taking up on the darning needle two or
three stitches only, and then gradually increase the length of the rows until they
are sufficiently long to more than cover the worn part ;after working a group of
rows of this length over the hole, decrease the length until the last row is of the
same length as the first.
(/) The correct holding of the work facilitates good darning. The girls should
be instructed to spread out the work well over the fingers of the left hand, so that
the garment shall not be drawn out of shape by the pulling up of the darning
threads. In the case of a hole too large to be spread out upon a child's hand,
the insertion of a circular piece of stiff cardboard under the hole will be found
helpful in keeping the work stretched out flat. Specially prepared, smooth, rounded
pieces of wood with handles attached are sold for the same purpose at a cost of
Id. each, and are known as " Mushroom Darners." Darning " eggs " of wood
are also employed for the purpose. If a wooden boot-tree is available, the stocking
foot may be placed on this for darning, as it not only spreads out the hole
satisfactorily, but also indicates clearly the position of any thin places.
ig) ^\^len preparing the hole for darning, clear the loosened loops by drawing
all the frayed ends of wool on to the wrong side of the garment. Keep the hole
as small as possible while doing this. It is not necessary to unravel the material
until the free loops are in parallel rows on opposite sides of the hole.
(h) Very large holes need special treatment. One way of dealing with these
is to put in an actual patch. Cut a piece of an old stocking similar in texture to
the one to be mended, and sew it over the mushroom darner. Slip the worn
stocking over it and neatly darn down the edges of the hole on to the patch. Turn
the stocking on to the wrong side, and cut away the raw edges of the patch right
up to the darning stitches.
A second plan is to place a piece of black tulle or net over the hole, and tack
it down on to the stocking on the wrong side. Then darn the hole, taking the
stitches through the tulle or net. The finished darn will have a compact and
neat appearance, as the stitches are in this way easily kept in place.
7. Putting fresh Cuffs on worn Blouses or Children's Overalls.

Remove the worn cuff by careful unpicking, and cut the lower edge of the
sleeve quite even, in readiness for re-gathering. Prepare and set in the cuff as
described in the case of full cooking sleeves on page 139, and attach suitable
fastenings.
8. Mending the torn ends of Cuffs, and the re-working of Button-holes or Loops.
Unpick the cuft at the worn end for quite an inch past the worn portion. Cut
off this defective part quite straight across the weft way or width of the band ;
this will leave free an unpicked portion of the band an inch long for the purpose
of joining the material for the new end. This new material will be of the same
width as the band, and sufficiently long to make up the latter to its original length.
Keeping the right side of the new material to the right side of the band, run and
backstitch together the new and old ends. Open out the join and flatten it. Turn
in the selvedge edges and end of the new portion of the band, and set into it the
unpicked section of the sleeve. Replace suitable fastenings.
9. Flat Patching of Flannelette, Stockingette, Calico, or Muslin Garments, where
no seams or gathers are involved.
The method adopted for patching flannelette depends upon the texture of the
material. If the flannelette is thick and flu fly, treat it as a flannel patch, in which
case the edges will not be turned under, and will be herring-boned. If the flannelette
is thin and liable to fray, treat it as a calico patch, employing hemming for both
the large and small squares. Note that in flannelette and all cotton materials
the smooth side is the right side.
A patch on woven material may be worked exactly like a flannel patch. Place
the stitches ver^' close together, in order to prevent the loops from running down.
Loop stitch, often called embroidery stitch, is sometimes used instead of
herring-boning. Use fine darning wool for working.
The following is a second method of patching woven material. First cut away
the worn part. Cut a portion of good material of a size and shape exactly to
fit the aperture. Button-hole the raw edges of the patch and of the hole with
wool of the same texture and colour as the material, so that the stitches will be
as invisible as possible. They must be taken fairly deep, however, so that a good
hold is ensured. Sew the knotted edge of the button-holing of the patch to the
button-holed edge of the hole by flat, over-sewing stitches. This must be carefully
done, so as not to drag the button-hole stitches in any way. A gusset to replace
the discoloured portion under the arm of a vest may be very satisfactorily
inserted by this method.
The generally-accepted method of applying a calico patch is to oversew it on
the right side and hem it on the wrong. It is frequently easier, however, owing
to the position of a patch on a garment, to hem it on both sides. This second
method has the advantage of lying flatter than the first method, and this is impor-
tant in some cases, e.g., in patching sheets. Note that the selvedge way of the
patch must lie in the same direction as the selvedge way of the garment. Drill,
holland, casement cloth, linen, and other strong cotton materials may be patched
in the same way as calico.
For fine material, such as muslin, nainsook, or cambric, place the patch on to
the wrong side of the garment and hem both outer and inner squares.
[N.B. —In preparing the material for ever\' patch, cut a piece large enough
to cover all the worn part, and to extend an inch or so beyond it in every
direction.]
STANDARD V REPAIRING LESSONS. 151
10. Making Iron-holders, or Kettle-holders, from scraps of cloth and old garments.
These may be either square or circular in shape. The padding may consist
of any kind of woollen material, e.g., good pieces of old stockings, placed one upon
another. The outer cover also should preferably be made of woollen material.
It is a good plan to insert, underneath the outer cover, a piece of soft leather, cut
from an old shoe or glove. This prevents the heat reaching the hand. All the
edges should first be tacked firmly together, and then bound round with broad
braid or tape, a loop of which should be formed at one side for hanging up the
holder. In the case of a souare holder, mitre the binding at the corners. If the
holder is round, arrange the edges of the binding flat in little pleats. Hem down
the binding on each side.
11. Use of old stockings for Floor Cloths, and, when rolled up tightly, for
Floor-polishers.
STANDARD VI.
I. PINCUSHION COVER OF JAVA CLOTH.

Two FL'RTHER VARIKTIi; )]• I EATllUK-binXHlNG TAL'GHT.
Materials Employed for One Cover. —
For the cover shown in Fig. 108, two 7-in.
squares of Java cloth were employed, and " O-So-Silkie " embroidery thread of
medium size. (See section on " Embroidery Cottons and Silks " in General
Inslniclio)Js.)
—
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Class of .')0. 6 J yds. of Java or oatmeal
"
cloth, 24 in. wide, at 7id. per yd. 4s. O^d. =
1| doz. balls of " 0-So-Silkie
(or other suitable embroiden*^ thread) at 2 for 3|d. 2s. 7^d. =
Total cost for 50
= 6s. 8jd., or a little less than 2d. each.
See instructions for the hem-stitched lamp mat on page 140. In this case,
however, provide each girl with two squares.
Fig. lUS. Pincushion Cover of Java Cloth.

152
PINCUSHION COVER OF JAVA CLOTH. 153

—
Decoration by Feather-stitching. The teacher will first show on the
demonstration frame the method of working the new types of feather-stitching in
Fig. 109. Feather-stitching (Third Variety)
Fig. 110. Feather-stitching (Fourth Variety).
turn, as required, pointing out that the sloping of the stitches produces a more
ornamental effect (see Figs. 109 and 110).
Let children nov/ apply the kinds of feather-stitching, as they are demonstrated,
to decorating each square for the cover in some such way as that shown in Fig!
108. (For first and second varieties, see page 125.)
Making up of Cover. —Place the two squares with the right sides facing each
other, and run and backstitch the edges together round three sides and one-half
of the fourth side at a distance in from the edge of \ in. This deep turning is
advisable, as Java cloth frays easily.
Turn the cover on to the right side, and stuff it with rovings of woollen material,
cuttings of waste material, bran, chaff, or other suitable stuffing. Turn in the
edges of the open half-side, and oversew them together, thus closing up the cushion.
—
Cord round Cushion. Make a crocheted chain of O-So-Silkie about 28 in.
long, using a coarse steel crochet-hook for the purpose. Work single stitch all
along this chain, to thicken it. (Detailed instructions for crochet are given in
Knitting without " Specimens," by the same authors and uniform with this volume.)
Oversew the thickened chain or cord round the edges of the cushion for
decorative purposes, making loops at the corners as shown in Fig. 108.
2. GIRL'S COOKING OR LAUNDRY APRON.

Machi.ning taught.
Materials and Cost of Two Aprons. —
3| yds. of material {e.g., apron linen or
other suitable strong material not less than 36 in. in width) at 8|d. per yd. =
2s. 8Jd. i doz. large unpierced linen buttons = id. White sewing cotton = |d.
Total cost of two = 2s. 9-}d., i.e., about lid. each.

{a) Diagram. —Let children enter in their record books dimensioned drawings
of the parts of the apron. The 24-in. length suggested for the skirt is one which
will fit a 12-year-old girl of average height. Each girl should measure the intended
wearer to ascertain the exact size required before entering and dimensioning the
diagram of the skirt.
viwKiiunjwum iiiiMuimi y .wrvn

'
Skirt' of a := r o n.
Fig. 111(a). Apron for a Girl 12 to 14 years old.

GIRL'S COOKING OR LAUNDRY APRON. 155

As the apron-skirt is quite straight except for
the slight hollowing at the waist, no paper pattern need be cut for this. Bands
and shoulder-straps can also be cut directly from the material. As the two halves
of the bib match exactly, only half the pattern of this need be cut in paper. It
A\nll be necessary, however, to cut the whole of the pocket. Both patterns can
be obtained from a portion of cutting-out paper measuring not less than 16 in. by
14 in. On this paper let each girl make the measurements for the pocket and
half -bib shown in Figs, lll(fc) and 111(c), draw in the outlines of the pattern, and
cut away the shaded portions.
Fig. 111(6). Fig. 111(c).

Bib for Apron. Pocket for Apron.

It will be found that the most economical
use can be made of the material by cutting out three aprons at the same time.
Supply each set of three girls with a piece of material 3f yds. long.
(1) From this, let them first measure and cut off three lengths, each 24 in.
long, for the three skirts. (If different skirt-lengths have been decided upon,
var^- the length distributed in proportion.)
(2) Let them next cut off a width 15 in. in length, and from this measure and
cut off three portions each 12 in. in width. From these portions let them cut out
the bibs, each girl pinning her paper pattern on to the piece doubled lengthwise.
(3) Let them now cut off a width 16 in. in length for the three pockets. Let
them measure and cut off for these the three portions, each 8 in. in width, and
cut out the pockets, after pinning on the patterns of the same.
(4) From the remaining length, let the girls measure and cut off the
waistbands and shoulder-straps for the three aprons.
Hem .\t Foot. —Along the bottom edge of the skirt portion, place and machine
a hem 1 in. in depth.
—
Pocket. Make and machine a narrow hem all round the pocket, except along
the narrow top edge, which will be inserted into the band. Arrange the pocket
to the right-hand side of the apron, so that the longer side is towards the centre
line of the skirt, and about 5 in. from it. Machine the pocket on quite straight,
so that the selvedge threads of both pocket and skirt run in the same direction.
156 NEEDLEWORK \VnH()l'T SPECIMENS.
The raw edge left at the top of the pocket should lie exactly over the raw edge of
the waist-line of the apron, and will be gathered and set into the band at the same
time as the skirt of the apron.
—
Setting Skikt into Band. Mark the half of the front waist and gather along.
After stroking the gathers, loosen them (Jut to a length of about 20 in., set into
the band, and machine along. Close the ends of the waistband also by machining.
Bib.— Place and machine a narrow hem round the bib, with the exception of
the edge to be attached to the waist and the two shoulder edges. This waist part
will be sewn to the upper part of the band. The raw edges of the bib should be
placed to the back part of the fold of the band, about I in. from the folded edge.
Place the centre of the bib to the centre of the band, and ease or pleat the bib
WA 1
s T Bam o •
Smooloer I.
S T R A PS •y.
Fig. lll(fl'). Band and Shoulder-straps.
Co o' 6-n.
Cmo or B < t
Figs. 112(a), {b), {c). Attachment of Shoulder-straps.

slightly in setting on, so that it measures about 4i in. across. Machine the band
close to the fold on the righv side, so as to secure the bib. Turn under the raw
edges and hem to the back of the band, taking care that the hemming stitches
shall not show through on the right side.
—
Shoulder-straps. ^Turn in a narrow fold round each shoulder-strap, with the
exception of one short edge. Fold each strap into halves along its length, and
machine the folds together. The end of each strap which has not been turned in
and machined will be attached to a shoulder end of the bib by means of a machined
counter-hem. To do this, turn a narrow fold down on to the wrong side at the
shoulder ends of the bib [see Fig. 112(&) ], and a narrow fold on to the right side
at the ends of the straps to be attached to the bib [see Fig. 112(fl)J. Place the
turned-in edges of the bib to lie upon the folded-up edges of the straps, so as to
form counter-hems about 4- in. in width [336 Fig. 112(c) 1.
,
BABY'S STAYS. 157
—
BuTTOXs AND BuTTON-HOLES. ^Work a button-hole on the right-hand side of
the band, about 1 in. long, and put a button to correspond on the left-hand side.
Determine the position of the button by fitting the apron to the intended wearer,
in order to ascertain the most convenient waist-size.
The shoulder-straps are arranged to cross over the back, and to fasten with
a button and button-hole under the bib in front, so that, when putting on the
apron, the straps must be fastened before the waistband. Work a button-hole
(cut A\-ith the selvedge) at the end of the left-hand shoulder-strap (as on the wearer)
and place a button to correspond at the end of the right-hand strap. The button
should be so placed that the straps fit comfortably over the shoulders when
fastened.
[X.B. — Practice in machining can also be gained in the making of boys' wood-
work aprons, dusters, tea-cloths, towels, etc. The pattern of a boy's woodwork
apron is given on page 78.]
3 BABY'S STAYS.
Practice in machining for quilting, and in machining on Prussian binding.
Materials and Cost of One Garment.— 7 in. of jean or drill (about 27 in. wide)
at Is. 0|d. per yd. = 2id. 7 in. of Welsh flannel at Is. 3^. per yd. = 3d. 2J yds.
of Prussian binding at 1 per yd. = 2|d. Small items, e.g., 1 yd. of tape, J in.
wide, sewing cotton, two buttons, etc. = Id. Total cost = 9^-d.
...li"... -IJ"-.
J
of
T Ui
Q
to
Q 1
-I 2 ,
D < 5i
CO 1
I I
in
Fig. 113. Stays for Baby aged IJ years.

(a) Di.'^GRAM. —
Let children make in their record books a dimensioned drawing
of Fig. 113. The suggested width of 23 in. is a suitable average size for a child
of 1 In the case of a child who differs considerably from the average
to 2 years.
necessary to increase or diminish the width only. If possible, the measure-
size, it is
ment of the intended wearer should be taken before entering the diagram in the
books.
Supply each girl with a piece of paper sufficiently
large for her to cut from it a field 7 in. by 11 1 in. On this, let her draft the pat-
tern of half the stays as shown in Fig. 113, and cut away the shaded portions.
As the shoulder-straps are perfectly straight, no paper pattern will be required
for them.
(c) Cutting out in Material. —-Supply to each girl a width of jean and a width
of flannel each 7 in. in length. Let her measure and cut off from each of these
the 23-in. width required for the stays. Let her fold this width into halves down
the selvedge way (taking the jean first), place the centre front of the paper pattern
to the fold, pin the pattern in position, and cut out the stays. Let her cut out
the flannel lining in a similar manner. From the remaining portions of jean and
flannel, let her measure and cut off strips of the dimensions required for the
shoulder-straps.
—
Machining of Stays. ^Tack the layer of jean quite flat upon the flannel lining.
(An interlining of canvas, calico, or wadding may be inserted between the jean
and flannel if desired.)
Work parallel rows of machining at right angles
to the length of the stays, as this affords good
practice in machining, and is much easier than
quilting. Any girls who have had considerable
practice in machining may be allowed to quilt
them, using the quilter of the machine.
Binding of Stays and Straps. Bind the —
stays all round with Prussian binding, first having
folded the binding, edge to edge, right side out.
When placing the edges to be bound inside the
binding, be careful to push them right up into the
crease. Stretch the binding well to prevent it from
puckering. Turn the corners by means of pleats.
After tacking securely, machine on the binding.
Fig. 114. The shoulder-straps, like the stag's, mav consist
Method of Attaching Tape of jean with a lining of flannel. Bind right round
IN Baby's Stays. these straps with Prussian binding in the manner
previously described.
—
Attachment of Straps. Attach the straps strongly at the backs of the
shoulders by double rows of machining, and secure them at the front by means
of buttons and button-holes. Work a button-hole (selvedge way) at the front
end of each strap. Fit the stays on the intended wearer, in order to ascertain
the exact positions in which to sew on the buttons at the ends of the front arm-
holes. This method of attaching the straps at the front by means of buttons and
button-holes is a good one, because the position of the button can be altered as
the child grows.
—
Sewing on Tapes at Back. Divide 1 yd. of tape into six lengths of 6 in.
each. These tapes will be sewn, three on each side of the back. They are sewn
on at the edges on the right-hand side in the ordinary manner. On the left-hand
side they are placed 2 in. in from the edge, and stitched on in the manner shown
in Fig. 114.
4. KNICKERS, (a) for YOUNGER SISTER OF 5 TO 6 YEARS,

to FIT THE MAKER
(b)
{i.e., a Girl of 12 to 13 Years).

Second method of dealing with side opening introduced. One of the
new types of feather-stitching applied for decorating bands.
Sewing on of frills taught.
—
KNICKERS. 159
{A) KNICKERS FOR CHILD OF 5 TO 6 YEARS.

—
Materials and Cost of Three Pairs. 2f yds. of material ^ at 7Jd. per yd. =
Is. 3 yds. of knitted or crocheted lace edging, costing about Id. per yd. to
8d.
produce = 3d. Jskeinof embroidery cotton or flax thread = M. Sewing cotton =
|d. Total cost of three pairs = 2s., or 8d. per pair.

{a) Diagram. —
Let each child enter a dimensioned drawing of Fig. 115 in her
record book. This should be done after measurement of the intended wearer.
As the pattern of the knickers is a full one, the width will need no adapting to
individual figures. Any increase or decrease in length may be made according to
circumstances in either or both of the 11 -in. and 5-in. measurements shown in
Fig. 115 (a). As the knee-band dimensions given produce quite close-fitting bands,
it wiU be inexpedient to reduce these lengths even for a very slim child. Many
people nowadays prefer much looser bands than those here shown, and individual
taste should be considered in this matter when possible.
Supply each child with a piece of paper sufficiently
large for her to obtain from it a field measuring 16 in. by 25 in. On this field,
let her make the measurements shown in Fig. 115(7), draw in the outline of the
pattern, and cut away the shaded portions.
(c) —
32 in. in length. Let her first cut off a strip 4 in. in width completely down the
selvedge way. From this let her cut off two lengths of 13 in. and 14 in. respec-
tively for the front and back waistbands. Let her next cut off a strip 2 in. in width,
and from it obtain two leg-bands each 12J in. (or more) in length.
Let each girl now fold the material (which must not be less than 25 in. in width)
into halves across the weft way, keeping the fold at the top. Let her pin on her
pattern, and cut the knickers in the double material. It should be remembered
that if the material is wider than the pattern, any excess in width should be left
projecting from one side only.

Se.\ms. —
Join the leg-curves by machined seams. The fells should pair and
turn towards the back. Next put the two legs together for the complete garment
by joining back to back of each leg and front to front. This will be done by the
same method as has been used for the legs. This seam must be so arranged that
the tvvo leg-seams exactly meet and appear continuous. In this case, however,
it is immaterial which way the fell falls.
—
Knee Bands. Gather the fullness of the knee, leaving about li in. plain on
each side of the seam. Prepare each knee band as follows. Turn in a fold ^ in.
deep along each weft edge of the band on to the wrong side. Place together the
right sides of the band, and join the two ends by oversewing them together on the
wrong side. Flatten the join. Turn down a fold ^ in. deep along each selvedge
edge of the band on to the wrong side. Place these edges together to form a
folded band, and firmly crease the fold thus obtained. Tack along this top folded
edge, to prevent the band from twisting when being set on. Stroke the gathers
and set them into the band, placing the join of the band to the leg-seam.
' Flannelette, calico, or longcloth are suitable materials, and should be not less than 31 in. in
width.
II (815c)
Hi-
^
fo
KNICKERS. 161
—
Side Openings. Arrange these in either of the two following ways. (1) Treat
each side opening as a placket in the manner described for a flannelette petticoat
on page 88, but placing the hems as for hemming, instead of making single turn-
ings only as when herring-boning is employed. In each case make the wide hem
on the back half of the opening, so that the back wraps over the front.
(2) Employ false hems, which may be put on as follows. Take a piece of
material 2h in. wide and i in. longer than the cut at the side. This will be attached
to the front edge of the opening ;
place the right side of the strip to the right
side of the garment, placing together the raw edges of the strip and of the front
half of the opening, and letting any extra length come at the bottom. Run the
edges together. Turn down the opposite Ions; edge of the strip, and then fold it
under on to the wrong side. Hem it into position on to the running stitches below.
Turn in the raw edges at the bottom, and oversew the folds together. This false
hem, therefore, projects from the front half of the opening, thus adding to its
width.
For the back false hem, take a strip of material | in. wide and J in. longer
than the opening. Run this on to the back edge of the opening, as described for
the front false hem. Turn in the raw edges, fold the strip under, and hem it down
to the back of the garment, so that no part of the false hem shows on the right
side. Attach the foot of the back false hem by sewing it down by two rows of
stitching on to the bottom edge of the flap projecting from the front hem. Strengthen
the opening on the wrong side by hemming the bottom edge of the front flap strongly
down on to the material beneath it.
—
Waistbands. Prepare
the front and back bands
for the setting in of the
gathers at the waist, re-
membering that the back W*IST»*NO.
band is the longer. Gather
the front and back of the
garment at the waist,
leaving 1 in. plain in ever}?^
case next to the side
opening. Set these gathers
into the bands.
BuTTO.v-HOLES. —Work
button-holes on the bands.
exactly as described for
the baby's drawers on
page 137.
Decoration. — Round
Fig. 115( ). Waistbands of Knickers.
the middle of each knee-
band, work one row of
feather-stitching. Use the simpler of the new methods learned in decorating a
pincushion in Standard VI. If lace, knitted or crocheted by the girl herself,
is employed for decoiation, have each portion made | yd. long, and then joined
into a ring.
(Instructions for working a pretty knitted lace edging are given on page 170
of Knitting without " Specimens," the companion book to this work, published by
Sir I. Pitman & Sons, and instructions for three varieties of crocheted lace edging
are given on pages 202 and 203 of the same book.)
Place the seam of the lace to the seam of the band, and oversew it round on
the wrong side. As a little extra length has been allowed for frilling, case it on
slightly, carefully regulating the fullness.
Imitation torchon lace edging, which can be bought at Id. per yd., may be
used if preferred, instead of the knitted or crocheted edging. If the knickers are
made of flannelette or flannel, a pretty edging for the knee-bands can be produced
by scalloping strips of the material for the purpose.
—
[,Y.jB. The above pattern may readily be adapted for making serge knickers
or bloomers for a child of 5 or 6 years. The length of the leg should be slightly
increased, and the knees drawn up with elastic, or finished with a fitted band
fastened by means of a button and button-hole. (The method of drawing up the
knees with elastic is described in the case of drill knickers on page 230.)]
Fig. 116(a). Knickers for Girl of 12 Years.

SIDEBOARD CLOTH OR PIANO TOP. 163
{B) KNICKERS FOR GIRL OF 12 TO 13 YEARS.

Materials and Cost of Three Pairs. —
4i yds. of material ^ at 7 Jd. per yd. = 2s. 7id.
4 yds. of knitted or crocheted lace edging (l^ yds. for each pair) costing about
Id. per yd. to produce = 4d. 1 skein of embroidery cotton or flax thread = Id.
Se\\-ing cotton = W. Total cost for three pairs = 3s. 0|d., or Is. Oid. per pair.
Fig. 116(6). Waistband for Knickers.
*
- ' - ---
L t o 3 » - o Leo 8 - - »
Fig. 116(c). Leg-bands for Knickers.
Drafting, Cutting Out, and Making Up.

Follow a similar plan to that described above under " Knickers for Child of
5 to 6 years," but see Figs. 116(a), {b), and (c).
—
IN.B. For method of adapting this pattern for making serge knickers or
bloomers, see above under " Knickers for Child of 5 to 6 years."]
SIDEBOARD CLOTH OR PIANO TOP.

Trellis pattern in hem-stitching taught. Introduction to drawn-thread
WORK BY means OF SATIN-STITCH DRAWN UP IN CLUSTERS.
Materials Employed for One Cloth. —
A piece of cheese-cloth or other suitable
coarse material, measuring 58| in. by 17 in. Embroidery thread of a suitable
texture in two colours. (See section on " Embroidery Cottons and Silks " in
General Instnictions.)
Cost of Two Cloths. —
58 1 in. of cheese-cloth, 36 in. wide, at 9d. per yd. =
Is. 22 d. Two colours of embroidery thread = 5d. Total cost = Is. 7,Jd. for
two, or about lOd. each.
^ Flannelette, calico, or longcloth are all suitable materials, and should be not less than 1 yd.
in width.
o
z
tt
-ii'-
5' c
Deep H e M.
ISV
SIDEBOARD CLOTH OR PIANO TOP. 165

(a) Diagram.—Let children enter a dimensioned diagram of the cloth in their
record books (see Fig. 17). This should be done after measurement of the actual
]
sideboard or piano to be fitted whenever this is found possible. Any necessary

variation in length or wddth from the dimensions here suggested should then be
made, and the amended dimensions entered in the record book.
(&) No paper pattern is necessary.
(c) Cutting out in ]\Iaterial. —
Supply to each pair of girls a width of material
58J in. long. Let each girl cut off a length 17 in. wide and 58^ in. long, i:e., the
full length of the piece supplied. The narrow 2-in. strip remaining will be found
useful for practice purposes.
Hems and Hem-stitching. —The hems are to be \\ in. deep, and J in. is required
for the first turning in of the raw edge therefore measure and mark off from each
;
edge a distance of 3|- in. before drawing the threads. These threads should be
draANTi heloiv the portion left for the hem. In the sideboard cloth shown in Fig.
117, the portion froni which the threads were drawn measured J in. in width.
Arrange these hems for working, as described in the case of a handkerchief case
on page 146. Hem-stitch round the hems and across the corners as follows.
Round the edge of the hem itself work hem-stitch in the usual manner. An even
number of threads must be selected for each group. When working round the
inner edge of the drawn threads, however, subdivide the clusters by taking half
the threads of one cluster and half the threads of the next cluster together, thus
producing the trellis-like appearance (see Fig. 118).
Fig. 118. Trellis Pattern Fig. 1 19. Method of Drawing

OF Hem-stitching. UP Satin Stitch in Clusters.
First Row —
of Chain Stitch. At a distance of in. in from each hem, work
J-
a row of chain stitch or

open chain stitch right round the cloth (see " Toilet Tidy,"
on page 103).
Satin Stitch
stitch,
—
drawn up in Clusters. At a distance in of \ in. from the chain
work satin stitch I in. deep completely round the cloth. Draw this satin
stitch up in clusters, in the manner shown in Fig. 119. Hold the thread coming
from the work under the thumb at a tension at A, while the needle is placed under
the cluster of threads in the position indicated. Then remove the thumb and
draw the thread up into a knot, thus fixing the cluster in the centre. Work in
this manner completely round the satin-stitch border. (This process is sometimes
called " Faggoting.") Four or five threads may go to each cluster instead of three
if preferred.
Second Row of Chain Stitch. Measure in — ^ in. from the satin stitch, and
work a second row of chain stitch or open chain stitch (sec Fig. 117).
6. HEM-STITCHED NIGHTDRESS CASE.

Trellis form of hem-stitching employed on finer material. Simple pattern
IN drawn-thread work taught. Simple crochet pattern taught for
lace edging.
Materials and Cost of One Case. (a) — —
Using Saxony Cloth. 42^ in. of Saxony
cloth, 30 in. wide, at 7.Vd. per yd. = 9d. Coats's white embroidery cotton and
sewing cotton — Id. 2 yds. of crocheted lace edging, costing about Id. per yd.
to produce = 2d. Total cost = Is.
(&)
—
Using Linen 40 in. wide.- 29 in. of linen, 40 in. wide, at Is. \\\d. per yd.
= Is. 7d. Other items as above = 3d. Total cost = Is. lOd.
[a) Diagram. — Let children enter in their record books dimensioned drawings
of the two parts of the nightdress case [see Figs. 120(a) and 120(6) ].
Fig. 120(rt). Hem-stitched Fig. 120(6). Hem-stitched

Nightdress Case. Nightdress Case.

This step may be omitted, as it is quite a simple
matter to measure and cut off the portions directly from the material.
(c) —
Cutting out in Material. (1) Supply to each girl a width of Saxony
cloth 42| in. in length. A length of 19J in. will be used for the bag portion, the
HEM-STITCHED NIGHTDRESS CASE. 167
19 J in. lying down the selvedge way, and the 29 in. across the weft way of the
material. From the remaining length of 23 in. cut off a piece 18 in. wide for the
flap. The 23 in. will lie along the selvedge way of the material, and the 18 in.
across the weft way. A
piece of material 23 in. by 12 in. will thus be unused,
and can be employed for practice puiposes.
(2) If linen is used, supply to each girl a 29-in. length of linen 40 in. wide.
Let her cut off from this a ^^-idth of 19J in. for the bag portion. (It will be noticed
that the 29 in. measurement now hes with the selvedge, instead of weft way as
in the case made of Saxony cloth. The variation is advisable in order to use the
material to the best advantage.) From the remaining portion let her cut off a
piece 23 in. long and 18 in. wide for the front flap.
Hems RorxD Front —
Flap. The hems are to be If in. deep, and ^ in. is
required for the turning in of the raw edge
first therefore measure and mark off
;
from each edge a distance of 3|- in. before drawing the threads. These threads
are to tie drawn below the portion left for the hem. In the nightdress case here
described, a width of \ in. was allowed for the drawing of the threads.
Place the hems as described in dealing with the handkerchief case on page
145, noting particularly the method of cutting away the material at the comers.
Hem-stitch round these hems, employing the trellis pattern described in the case
of the sideboard cloth.
—
Drawn-thre..\d Work. The threads for this may now be drawn. Proceed
as follows. From each side of the rectangle ABCD, formed by the inner edges of
the hem-stitching, measure in a distance of IJ in., and at this distance in, draw
-191.
!+•
..|i-..
^ .;:im-.-:LL-!:Al>iiiibiril!lii!ll!aM
Fig. 120(c). Front Flap, showing Hem and Spacing for

DRAWN-THREAD WORK ON NIGHTDRESS CaSE.
168 XEEDLEWUKK WlTHOlT Sl'ECl.MEXS.
the rectangle EFGH with its edges parallel to the hem-stitching. Deal with each
corner of this rectangle in the following way. Mark off from the corner } in. along
each of the adjoining sides, as shown by the thickened lines in Fig. 12U(c). Take
a pair of sharplv-pointed scissors, insert the under point at the corner, and cut
cleanlv along each j -in. measurement in turn. Now draw out all threads, the ends
of which have been left free by the cutting [see Fig. 120(f) ]. The cut edges should
be neatened by button-hole stitch, which will, of course, be worked on the right
side (see Fig. 121). Commence the drawn-thread work bv working hem-stitch
rouncl both edges of the drawn-thread portion on the wrong siile ;
group three
or four threads together in a cluster.
;#i>
Fig. 121. ^Method of Working a Spider-web Cor.ver.
Turn the work on to the right side, and commence to work with the embroider^'
cotton. The clusters formed bv the hem-stitching must now be dra\\'n up together
in groups of four, by means of knots or " faggoting." as described in the case of
the sideboard cloth in the exercise preceding this. The knotting should be done
along the middle line of the drawn thread portion (see Fig. 122). An end of thread
at least 6 in. long should be left at both beginning and end of this line of knotting.
The working of the next step produces the appearance of a series of rosettes
(see Fig. 122). Join on the cotton at the right-hand side of the work, lea\-ing an
end at least 6 in. long, and bind each cluster ^^-ith a knot, arranging the knots
in semicircular form on either side of the middle line. \Vhen the first four knots
have been worked, and the middle Hne is reached, complete the semicircle by
making a knot on this middle thread midway between two " faggots."
HEM-STITCHED NIGHTDRESS CASE. 169
StiU proceeding towards the left, work a semicircle similar to the first below
the middle Une (see Fig. 122), again making a knot on the middle thread when
m'*
'
\i '
_ '«r*,-,*A-??..
! iSJt.
'—>«! 4'--' --?•>
Fig. 122. Method of Working " Rosettes " ix Drawx-thread Work.
this is reached Continue to work these alternate semicircles until the end of the
side is reached. WTien the last knot has been formed, cut the thread, lea\-ing an
end at least 6 in. long. ^ .u ^ v workmg
.
ofx
,
Turn the work the other way up, so that the pomt where the Ime
i i
last
now at the right-hand side, and
terminated is
proceed to work another line of alternate semi-
circles in exactly the same way as
before this ;
time, knot round the sets of clusters not already

worked. Again leave an end of thread G in. long
after the last knot has been made.
Work rosettes in the way above described
along all four sides of the drawn-thread
rectangle.
Deal with the comers as follows. Ends of
embroidery cotton have been left projecting at
A, B, C, D, E, and F, shown in Fig. 123.
These
threads must'now be attached to the opposite
button-holed edges by carrying A across to A', B
and F to Fig. 123. Method of
to B C to C D to D E to E
, , , ,
After F' .
Securixg Threads to
the first thread has been carried across, knot every
succeeding thread to the centre point of this.
form the fouxdation
Threads are also needed across the diagonals of OF A Spider-web
CORXER.
the square. To produce these, join on the thread
PRINCESS PETTICOAT FOR CHILD'S OWN WEAR. 171
at G, knot it at the centre point, and carry it across to G', where it must be
securely attached. Carry a diagonal thread similarly from H
to H'.
Commence the working of the " spider " by darning the end of cotton through
the knot at the centre of the square. Then work a series of backstitches round
the centre point to form a spiral, in every case taking the stitch back over one
thread (see Fig. 121). Continue this process until the spider's web is of the desired
size.
—
Making up of Bag. ^Take the portion which will form the bag, fold it into
halves as indicated by the dotted line in Fig. 120(fl), and join up the sides by
machined French seams. Machine a hem about h in. deep completely round the
open top of the bag, turning the hem on to the wrong side.
Oversew the top edge of the flap to the top back edge of the bag.
—
Sewing on Lace. For the nightdress case shown in Fig. 124, crocheted lace
edging worked by the girl herself was employed. (The instructions for this pat-
tern and for two other easy varieties of crocheted lace edging are given on pages
202 and 203 of Knitting without " Specimens," the companion book to this work,
published by Sir I. Pitman & Sons.)
Sew the lace round the front flap, taking care to allow a sufficient amount of
fullness at each corner.
7. PRINCESS PETTICOAT FOR CHILD'S OWN WEAR

{i.e., for Girl of 12 to 13 Years).
New method of dealing with back opening taught application of new

;
type of feather-stitching attaching of lace frill by means of

;
simple feather-stitching.
Materials and Cost of One Petticoat. —
2^ yds. of calico, 30 in. wide, at 6|d. per
yd. = Is. l|d., (two pieces, each 38 in. by 30 in., are required). 2^ yds. of Valen-
ciennes or torchon lace about 5 in. wide, at 4^d. per yd. = 1 l-^d. 1 J
yds. of narrow
Valenciennes or imitation torchon edging = l|d. 1 skein of embroidery
cotton = Id. Small items, viz., four small unpierced linen buttons, and sewing
cotton = |d. Total cost = 2s. 4Jd.
(a) DiAGRA.M. —
Let the girls enter in their record books dimensioned drawings
and 125(fe). This should be done after measurement of the intended
of Figs. 125((2)
wearer. If any alteration in length is found desirable, the 38-in. measurement
may be increased or decreased without varying any other dimensions.
In the case of an alteration in the width of the bodice portion, let the increase
or decrease be made in the length of the neck-curves, i.e., at the centre front or
centre back. The shoulder-lines and armhole curves will thus remain constant,
except in extraordinary cases. If the neck curves are increased in length, arrange
for a runner at the neck, so that the petticoat can be drawn up to the size required.
The armhole curve can always be further hollowed, if thought desirable, when
fitted on the wearer after the joining up of the seams.
An alteration to the width of the foot of the skirt can easily be carried out
by using material wider than 30 in., and increasing the slope of the under-arm
seams, other dimensions remaining the same.
172 NEEDLEWORK WITHOL'T SPECIMENS.
-31-- -»-ll t-2.i'* * -4^---.»--9i"
Fig. 125(fl).
Princess Petticoat.
—
Cutting out in Paper. It will be necessary to cut out only the patterns
(6)
of a half-back and a half-front in paper. Supply each girl with sufficient cutting-
out paper for her to obtain from it two pieces, each 38 in. by 15 in. Taking the
piece for the half-front first, let her make on it all the necessary measurements,
draw in the outline of the pattern, and cut away the shaded portions. Let her
deal similarly with the piece for the half-back.
PRINCESS PETTICOAT FOR CHILD'S OWN WEAR. 173
(c) Cutting out in Material. ^Supply each girl with 2^ yds. of calico, 30 in.
wide. Let her divide this length into halves across its width.
She may then proceed to cut out the front as follows. Fold one piece of material
into halves down the selvedge way. Pin the pattern on the material, placing
the line for the centre front to the fold. Cut out the front through the double
material. Deal with the back in a similar way, but cut down the centre of the
back for |- of its length to form a back opening.
Let each girl put her waste material carefully on one side, as she will require
it later for the cutting of crossway strips to face the armholes and neck-curve.

—
Seams. Place the seams as for run-and-fell, and machine them down.
—
Hem at Foot. ^Machine a hem about 1|- in. deep round the bottom.
—
Back Opening. At the foot of the back opening make small snips at right
angles to the slit. Down each side machine a hem in. in width throughout its
i-
length. Cut across the under-fold of the left-hand hem to make the opening set
flatly, \\rap the right-hand hem over the left, and stitch into position, making
the stitches above the cut edges. Neaten with tape on the wrong side.
—
Facing of Neck and Arm-curves. For the method of cutting and attaching
the crossway pieces for the neck, see the case of a girl's petticoat with bodice on
page 135. In this case, however, substitute machining for the stitches there
described.
^Îethod of Fastening. —
Work four button-holes on the right-hand side of
the back opening at equal distances apart. As the petticoat hangs looseW, the
button-holes may be cut parallel with the edge of the hem. If a wide hem is
Fig. 126. Method of attaching Lace Frill by Feather-stitching.

employed, they may, if preferred, be cut horizontally ncyoss the hem. In the
former case the button-holes may be worked with tvv(j round corners, and in the
latter with a square inner corner. Sew on unpierced linen buttons to correspond
with the button-holes in the manner described under " C.irl's Petticoat with
Bodice " on page 135.
Df,cor.\tio.\'.— Feather-stitch round the neck and armholes, using either of
the kinds of feather-stitching taught in the case ol a pincushion on page 153 (s3e
Figs. 109 and 110).
Oversew the lace edging round the neck and armholes, easing it on sufficiently
to give slight fullness. Join the deep lace for the frill round the bottom mto cir-
cular form by means of a run-and-fell seam. Divide the foot of the skirt into halves
and quarters at a distance up of 5 in. (or the depth of the frill), and mark each
division by a few stitches. ^lark the halves and quarters of the frill, and draw
it up to the size required to fit round the skirt. Pin the frill into position on the
skirt at the required distance up, regulating the fullness carefully b\- means of the
divisions previously marked. After tacking the frill firmly into place, feather-
stitch the gathered edge on to the skirt below, using a simple type of feather-stitch-
ing ;take the top stitch in each case into the calico only immediately above the
frill, and the bottom stitch through both the frill and the calico. This method of
attachment forms a decorative heading to the frill (see Fig. 126).
8. TUCKED CAMISOLE FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR

{i.e., for Girl of 12 to 13 Years),
Placing and running of tucks introduced. Further practice in

button-holixg and feather-stitching.
Materials and Cost of One Camisole. —
19 in. of madapollam, 42 in. wide, at
8|d. per yd. = 4Jd. H
yds. of embroider^' edging at 2|d. per yd. = 4|:d. Small
items, e.g., tape, embroidery cotton, sewing cotton, buttons, etc. = Id. Total
cost = lOd.

(a) Diagram. —
Let the girls enter in their record books dimensioned drawings
of Figs. 127(fl) and 127(&). This should be done after measuring the intended
wearer. Any variation in length or width froin the standard si/e can be quite
easily made, and the entries in the books varied accordingly. In the case of an
alteration in width, let the increase or decrease be made at the centre line of the
back and front. Any alteration in length should be made in the distance below
the armhole. If found desirable, the armhole curve can always be further hollowed
when the camisole is fitted on the wearer after the joining up of the seams.
(&) Cutting out in Paper. —
Supply each girl with a piece of paper large
enough for her to obtain from it a field of 19 in. by 20 1 in. On this, let her draft
the patterns of the half-front and half-back, and cut away the shaded portions.
(c) —
Cutting out in Material. Supply each girl with a complete width of
madapollam 19 in. long. Let her cut off from this widths of 26 in. and 15 in.
respectively for the fronts and back. Let her fold each of these portions into
halves down the selvedge way. She maj^ now pin on the paper patterns, in each
case putting the straight edge of the pattern to the fold in the material. Let her
TUCKED CAMISOLE FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR. 175
now cut out the fronts and back, in the case of the former cutting down the centre
fold afterwards, to separate the two half-fronts.

Fronts. — These have been cut sufficiently wide to allow of three tucks, each
I in. in width, on either side of the front hems, which are | in. wide.
Fig. 12/(a).Back of Fig. 127

(6). Front of
Tucked Camisole. Tucked Camisole.
First turn down and machine the hems. Next tack the three tucks down each
side of the centre front, separating them by spaces of the same width {viz., \ in.),
and arranging them to face inwards. Run or machine them as far as the waist.
—
Seams. Machine the under arm and shoulder seams, placing as for run-and-
fell seams, with the fells turning towards the back.
Hem —
at Basque. Machine a narrow hem round the lower edge of the camisole.
—
Waist. Fix a length of tape not less than f in. wide flatly on the wrong side
at the waist-line, and machine each edge into position across the entire bodice.
Insert a draw-string into eyelet holes, which must be made at a distance of f in.
from the front edges, on the upper part in the case of the left-hand side, and on
the under part in that of the right-hand side. Stitch the draw-string into position
at the centre of the back to prevent it from slipping.
12-(8I5C)
176 NEEDLEWORK WnilOl'l Sl'ECIMEXS.
An alternative method of treating the waist is to machine a straight strip of
embroidery, 1 in. wide when prepared, over the waist-Hne on tlie riglit side of the
camisole as far as the hemming stitches of the front hems ; insert a ribbon to
draw the garment up to the waist size.
—
Neck and Armholes. Face the neck and armlioies with crossway pieces.
(For method of doing this, see under "Girl's Petticoat with Bodice "'on page
135.) The embroidery for the neck and armholes should be machined into posi-
tion at the same time as the crossway facing, by inserting its raw edge between
the crossway piece and the right side of the camisole and machining the three
edges together. When the crossway piece is flattened down into position, the
embroidery will remain standing up at the edges of the neck and armholes. In
the case of the neck, insert a tape or ribbon through the runner formed by the
crossway piece and draw up the neck slightly, bringing the draw-string out through
eyelet holes, as described for the waist. Decorate the neck and armholes with
feather-stitching. In the case of the neck, the feather-stitching must be done
before the crossway piece is attached, so as not to interfere with the pulling up
of the draw-string. The front of the camisole may also be ornamented with
vertical rows of feather-stitching suitably placed (see Fig. 128).
Fig. 128. Tucked Camisole, showing Finished Appearance.

SEA.AILESS CAMISOLE WITHOUT TUCKS FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR. 177
An alternative method of treating the neck is to machine a straight strip of

embroidery suitable for inserting ribbon on to the right side of the neck-curve,
and then to draw up the neck by narrow ribbon.
—
Buttons and Button-holes. Âs the bodice is rather loose-fitting, work
three or four vertical button-holes with round ends down the right-hand front
hem at equal distances between the neck and waist sew buttons to match on
;
the left-hand hem.
9. SEAMLESS CAMISOLE WITHOUT TUCKS, FOR GIRL'S

OWN WEAR
[i.e., for Girl of 12 to 13 Years).
Working of button-holes on the cross introduced.

Materials and Cost of One Camisole. —
21 in. of madapollam, 42 in. wide, at
8|d. per vd. = 5|-d. \\ yds. of embroidery edging at 2.fd. per yd. = 4Jd. Small
items, e.g., tape, embroidery cotton, sewing cotton, buttons, etc. = Id. Total
cost - ibid.
{a) Diagraji. —Let the girls enter in their record books a dimensioned drawing
of Fig. 129.
(6) Cutting out ix Paper. —Supply each girl with a piece of cutting-out
paper large enough for her to obtain from it a field measuring 21 in. by 18 in. On
this, let her draft the pattern of the half-camisole, and cut away the shaded portions.
(c) —
Cutting out in Material. Supply each girl with a complete width of
madapollam 21 in. in length. From this, let her cut off the required width of
36 in. She may then fold this into halves down the selvedge way, place the
straight edge of the pattern (representing the centre back of the camisole) to the
fold, pin on the pattern, and cut out the garment in the double material. From
the remaining material, crossway pieces shduld be cut for facing the fronts, neck-
curve, and armholes. The strips lor the fronts may be IJ in. wide, and those for
the neck-curve and armholes f in. wide.
—
Shoulders. ^^lachine the shoulder-seams, using the run-and-fell method of
placing these, and letting the fells turn towards the back.
—
False Hems and Trimming. Face the fronts, neck, and armholes with cross-
way pieces. The widths of these have been given above under " Cutting out."
The method of dealing with these crossway pieces, and the embroidery edging for
the neck and armholes, is fully described under " Tucked Camisole " in the
preceding exercise.
—
Hem at Wâist. Machine a hem \ in. deep completely along the lower edge
of the camisole. This hem will be drawn up by means of a draw-string which
should be passed through eyelet holes, as described in the preceding exercise.
—
Buttons and Button-holes. As the bodice is rather loose-fitting, work
three or four vertical button-holes with round ends down the right-hand front
hem at equal distances between the neck and waist sew buttons to match ;
178 NEEDLEWORK WlTHOl'T SPECIMENS.
on the left-hand hem. The button -holes in this case will present considerable
difficulty, as they have to be cut on crossway material, and consequently stretch
out of place very easily. In order to prevent the slit from fraying and to give
Fig. 129. Seamless Camisole without Tucks for Girl's Own Wear.
added firmness, the edges of the button-hole should be " stranded " before work-
ing. step of this process is shown in Fig. 130(a).
The first Pass the needle between
the folds of the material and bring it out at A, j\ in. to the left of the cut. Put
in the needle at B and bring it out at C, taking the needle right under the material
while doing so. Insert the needle again at D and bring it out at A. Continue this
process until two sets of strands have been formed. When completing the second
SIMPLE YOKELESS FROCK FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR. 179
round, bring the needle out just above the sUt, as shown in Fig. 130(6). Now pro-
ceed to work the button-hole as usual, making the stitches sufficiently deep to
completely cover the strands.
ff o
Fig. 130(a). Method of : Fig. 130(6). Method oi-

Straxdixg a Button-hole. Stranding a Button-hole.
—
Ornamentation. Decorate neck, armholes, and fronts with feather-stitching,
using any of the varieties learned.
\_X.B. — Measurements and instructions for this type of garment for a woman
are given in Chapter XXI of Miss Amy K. Smith's Cutting Out for Student Teachers
(Pitman)."
10. SIMPLE YOKELESS FROCK FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR

{i.e., for Girl of i2 to 13 Years).
First method of setting in sleeves introduced, and revision of decorative

STITCHES for DESIGN.
Materials Employed. — Dress linen, casement cloth, or serge, 42 in. wide. Nearly
3 be required.
3^ds. will
Forty inches is a more usual width than 42 in. for cotton dress materials. It
is equally suitable for this pattern, the only difference being that the side-seams
\v\\\ slope out rather less than in Fig. 135, and the dress will be slightly narrower
at the foot.
Cost of One Frock using
Serge. —
3 yds. serge, 42 in. wide, at Is. 8d. per yd.
= 5s. 3J of Prussian binding at Id. per yd.
\-ds. 3^-d. 1 ball of embroi- =
dery silk 2d. =(For varieties of Embroidery Silk, see section in General Instruc-
tions.) Small items, e.g., lining for collar, press-studs, sewing cotton, etc. 3d. =
Total cost =
5s. 8Jd.
—
N.B. ^The cost may be reduced by 3|d. if the seams are overcast, instead of
being bound with Prussian binding.
If the frock is required for summer wear, casement cloth at lOJd. per yd. will
be a suitable material, and the cost will then amount to about 3s. Id.
180 NEEDLEWOl^K WlTHOrT SPECIMENS.
-&^ ««.-2i «* - -
4V
2o"
Fig. 131 (h).
Simple Yokeles.s Frock for Girl 12 to 13 Years.

»

(fl) Diagram. —Let the girls enter in their record books dimensioned drawings
of Figs. 131(a), (b), and (d). This should be done after measuring the intended
{c),
wearer to ascertain whether any variation will be needed in the length and width.
In the case of an alteration in width, let the increase or decrease be made at
the centre lines of the back and front.
* -9" —
W R S T
B A M D.
.4.'"--^
Fig. 131 (i^). Pocket and

Wristband for Simple
YoKELESs Frock.
Fi3. 131(c). Sleeve for Simple

YoKELEss Frock.
Any alteration in length can be made in the length measurement below the
arm hole.
Supply each girl with a piece of cutting-out
paper large enough for her to obtain from it a piece 43 in. by 34 in., and a second
piece 20 in. by 19 in. From the former, let her cut two portions, measuring respec-
tively 43 in. by 20 in., and 42 in. by 14 in. Taking each of these in turn, she may
now draft out first the pattern of the half-front, and secondly that of the half-back,
On the pattern of the right half-front, let her draw the dotted vertical line
indicated in Fig. 131(6). She can then fold back along this dotted line to obtain
the pattern of the left half-front when cutting out in material.
Let each girl now take the portion of paper measuring 20 in. by 19 in., and
on it draft the pattern of the sleeve, which may then be cut out.
The pattern of the pocket may be drafted on some of the waste paper cut
away from the front or back patterns.
The turn-down collar suggested for the dress is similar to the " Peter Pan "
182 NEEDLEWORK WITHOUT Sl'ECLMICNS.
collar,described on page 118. If the girl has already drafted this pattern and
kept in her record book, it need not be prepared again now.
it
As the waistband and wristbands are perfectly straight, paper patterns of
these will not be necessary.
VVaist Belt
Fig. 1;J1(('). W aisthei.t for Simplf. "S'okf.i.kss I'^rock.
(c) Cutting out in Materi.m.. — Fronts. —Cut oft a complete width of material
43 in. in length. From this cut off a width of 20 in. for the right half-front. Pin
on the pattern, and cut out this half of the front first.
Now fold back the pattern along the vertical dotted line previously drawn,
thus producing the pattern for the left half-front. Pin this pattern on the remaining
portion of the 43 in. length of material apportioned for the fronts. Let any excess
in width of material project at the side of the pattern next the seam. Cut out
the left half-front. From the material remaining over from the fronts, cut a
strip 35 in. by 5 in. for the waistband.
—
Back. Next take a complete width of material 42 in. in length. Fold back
a width of 14 in. down the seh-edge way of the material, thus producing a length
of doubled material 42 in. long and 14 in. wide, with the excessive width of 14 in.
of single material projecting at one side. Pin the pattern on to the double material,
with the straight line of the centre back to the fold. Cut out the back.
Pocket, Waislhand, and Collar. —
There will be no difficult}'' in cutting these
from the spare piece of material remaining from the back.
Sleeves. —
Fold the remaining length of material down the selvedge way, so as
to produce a doubled width of 19 in., leaving any excessive width at one side.
Pin the sleeve pattern on to the doubled material, so that a pair of sleeves is cut
out simultaneouslv.
—
Seams. Machine the side, shoulder, and sleeve seams, using French seams in
the case of cotton material. Tack from the armhole downwards in the case of the
side-seams. When dealing -with the sleeve-seams, be most careful to arrange the
seams to pair for the right and left arms. Note the difference in the curves for
the top part (large curve) and under side (hollowed curve).
If the dress is made of serge or other thick material, make a simple skirt-seam
as follows. Machine the two edges together on the wrong side at a distance in of
h in., and flatten out the seam as shown in Fig. 1.32. Bind each of the opened-
out edges with Prussian binding, first having folded the binding edge to edge,
right side out throughout its length. This folding mav be done b}^ means of press-
ing between the fingers, or under a warm iron if one can be conveniently obtained.
When placing the edges to be bound inside the binding, be careful to push them
right up into the crease. Stretch the binding well to prevent it from puckering.
After tacking it carefully into position, machine on the binding firmly.
S I a e S . O £
Fig. 132. Method of Binding the Qpened-ouv Edges of Seam with

Prussian Binding.
A cheaper ^va^• of neatening the raw edges of the seam is (1) to overcast them,
or (2)to pink them out (see Fig. 133).
Flatten out the finished seam on the wrong side by using a hot iron over a
damp cloth.
Hems down Fronts. —Machine hems 1 in. wide down both right and left fronts.
Hem at Foot. — Place a hem about 2 in. deep round the bottom of the dress.
Fig. 133. Method of Overcasting or Pinking out the Edges of an

Opened-out Seam.
184 NEEDLKWOKK WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
making small ]:)leatsat intervals to dispose of the extra fullness caused by the
outward slope of the seams. Machine this hem down and Hatten it by means of
pressing with a hot iron over a damp cloth, exerting extra pressure over the pleats.
(If the pre.ssing cannot be conveniently carried out, omit this process in the case
of a cotton dress.)
—
Finishing at Neck. If the collar is to be made of the same material as the
dress, it should be attached to the neck-band of the dress. If, however, a separate
washing collar is preferred, it may be drafted and made exactly as described under
" Peter Pan Collar " on page 118. In the latter case, the neck of the dress will
simply be finished with a narrow band, inside which the washing collar can be
lightly tacked. Any lace or other suitable turned-down collar may be worn with
the dress if found convenient.
If the collar is to be of the same material as the dress, supply it with a lining
according to the pattern given for the •' Peter Pan " collar ; cut it h in. less at
each side of the front, however, as no margin will be required for scallops.
Machine the lining and the collar together on the wrong side (or on the right
side, if preferred, after turning in edges), leaving the neck-curve open for the pre-
sent. Turn the collar on to the right side, and flatten with an iron. Arrange
round the neck-curve of the dress an open band, made from a strip of material
about 2 in. wide and 15 in. long, which has been cut into halves along its length.
(The exact length necessarv should be determined by measuring the intended
wearer.) Insert the neck-curve of the collar between the open edges of the top
of the band. When placing the collar into the band, see that the centre point of
the collar is placed to the centre of the back of the dress. Machine the join firmly.
side.
—
Sleeves. Join each cuff into a circular form by machining on the wrong
Gather the wrist of the sleeve for insertion into the cufT, leaving 1 in. plain
on either side of the seam. Fold each cul^ into halves along its length, turn in
the raw edges and place it in position, with the seam of the cuff to the seam of
the sleeve. Machine on the cuff. Before placing in the sleeves, fit the dress on
the intended wearer, in order to hollow the arm-curves further, if necessary.
Gather the top of the left sleeve as follows. Commencing on the under-arm or
hollowed curve, about 8 in. from the seam, gather round the top of the sleeve to
wthin 3 in. of the seam. In the case of the right sleeve, commence on the upper
curve at 3 in. from the seam, and gather round till within 8 in. of the seam on
the under curve.
To place in the sleeves, turn the dress on to the wrong side, and put the sleeve
into the armhole so that the right side of the sleeve touches the right side of the
dress. Place the seam of the sleeve about 2 in. in front of the under-arm seam
of the dress. Take special care that the right sleeve is fitted into the right arm-
hole, and the left into the left. To test this, notice that w^hen a sleeve is held right
side out and the right way up, the large curve \\'ill be to the wearer's right hand
in a right-arm sleeve, and to her left hand in a left-arm sleeve. Regulate the
fullness of the sleeve to fit round the shoulder-curve. Machine the sleeve in at a
distance of about | in. from the edge, and neaten the raw edges by binding round
Avith tape or Prussian binding.
—
Belt. -Turn in a narrow fold about J in. deep right round the belt. Double
the belt into halves down the selvedge way, and machine together the tumed-in
edges except at one end. This end should be pointed to form a pretty finish to
the overlapping end of the belt.
—
Decoration. Work a decorative design down the hem of the right, front of
SBIPLE YOKELESS FROCK FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR. 185
the dress. A suitable design in chain stitch and

French knots is shown in Fig. 134. A similar
design may be worked round the waist band,
cuffs, and collar, or these may be more simply
ornamented by a row of French knots. A Fig. 134. Suggested Design
dress ornamented with the design suggested FOR Decoration.
above is shown in Fig. 135.
Fig. 135. Finish i. AJ<ANXE f;F TilF, p-ROCK,

186 NEEDLE\V()J<K W'llHOri SI'IX IMi:.\'S.
An alternati\'e plan for decorating the ilress is to trim witii fancy buttons
and piping of a contrasting colour.
—
Fastenings. Before attaching the fastenings, machine the right half-front
clown on to the left for a distance up from the bottom of about 16 in.
The simplest method of fastening the portion of the front left open, is by means
of press-studs, (.\bout six will be required.)
Attach a tape loop to each sleeve for the purpose of hanging up the dress when
not in wear.
II. JAPANESE COSTUME FOR CHILDREN'S PLAYS.

(To Fit a Girl from ii to 14.)
Method of employing crosswav pieces for decoration introduced. This

EXERCISE affords MUCH PRACTICE IN MACHINING.
(.n rSIXG M.VrEklAl. so in. WIDE.

—
Materials and Cost. 2k yds. of figured muslin, 50 in. wide, at ll|d. per yd.
= 2s. 5.Vd. 60 in. of sateen (to blend in colour with the muslin) at 6d. per yd.
= lOd. Small items, i.e., cotton, press-studs, hooks and eyes = Id. Total cost
= 3s. 4^d.
—
[N.B. A pattern suitable for cutting the costume in the more brilliantly-
coloured Japanese art muslin is given on page 191.]
{a) Diagram. —
Let the girls first enter Figs. 136(rt) and 136(6) in books, showing
dimensions. This should be done after measuring the intended wearer from the
shoulder almost to the ankles, to ascertain whether any variation in length will
be needed.
(&) Cutting out in Paper. —
large for her to obtain from it a field measuring 45 in. by 25 in., i.e., the field
ABCD, on which she can draft the pattern of the half-front. Let her cut away
the shaded parts except the neck portion. This will be cut away later, after the
cutting of the main part of the garment in material.
No paper pattern of the half-back \\-ill be required, as it is identical with that
of the half-front, with the exception of the slope for the front opening.
(c) —
Cutting out in Material. Supply each girl with 2-|- yds. of figured muslin.
50 in. wide. As this is double A\-idth material, it a\t,11 alread}^ be folded into halves
down the selvedge way, and this fold should be retained. Each girl may then
fold this length into halves across its width to produce the fold for the shoulder.
Pin the pattern on the fourfold material so that the line AB is placed to the
shoulder-fold at the top, and the line BD to the lengthwise fold of the material.
Cut through the four thicknesses along the Unes EF and FG. Now take off the
paper pattern, and on it cut along the line HJ to produce the neck-opening at
the front.
Next open out the garment to its full length as shown in the diagram again ;
pin on the pattern, this time on to the front portion onty, and cut out the neck-
opening, which is represented in the diagram as JH, HB. Separate the fronts by
cutting along the fold from the hem up to the front neck.
JAPANESE COSTUME FOR CHILDREN'S PLAYS. 187
s ASH r o R
WA 1 e T.
li
L o O P L o O P
For r o n
B O vv . B O s/v.
-- u\
-• .«
Fig. 136(6). Method of Cutting

Sash and Bow.
Fig. 136(a). Japanese Costume

FOR Children's Plays. First
Pattern, using Figured Muslin
50 IN. WIDE.
188 NEEDLEWORK WITIiOUT SPEflMIiXS.
—
Cutting Out of Sash and Facings. Supply each girl with 60 in. of sateen,
30 in. wide. From this let her cut off a length of 30 in. From this piece let her
measure off two widths of 12 in. each, as shown in Fig. 136(6), and cut these off.
One strip will be used for the waist portion of the sash, and the other for the loops
of the bow. A 6-in. strip of the 30-in. length .still remains. A portion of this
about 7 in. long may be used for the centre knot of the bow.
The remaining 30-in. length should be divided up into crossway pieces 3 in.
wide for facing the costume. The method of dividing up the square is shown in
Fig. 137. The lines there indicated may be measured and marked in lead directly
on to the sateen with the aid of a long ruler or T-square.
Fig. 137. Method of Cuttin'g Fig. 138. IMethod of Joining

Crossway Pieces for Facings. Crossway Facings.
—
Seams. Employ inachined French seams for joining the continuous
under-arm and sleeve edges.
—
Hem. ^Machine a hem about J in. in width down the straight portion of the
left front.
Facings. —^Turn a narrow, single fold on to the right side round the right-hand
front, foot, neck, and sleeve edges, preparatory^ to finishing these parts with facings
of sateen. It will be necessar^r to join together a number of the crossway strips
(which have already been cut) in order to obtain sufficient continuous length for
the facings for the right-hand front and foot. It may also be necessary to make
joins in the pieces used for the sleeves. Much care must be exercised in carrying
out this step if the finished effect is to be good. Each join must be made along
two corresponding oblique edges, AB and CD, as shown in Fig. 138. The edges
will be machined together on the wrong side of the material, and then opened
out and pressed as in Fig. 138. They should, however, be tacked together
before the stitching is attempted, and opened out to test whether the long edges
of the adjoining pieces are in a continuous straight line. Any alteration found
necessary can then be made before the machining is done.
Now turn a narrow fold on to the wrong side down the long edges of the strip,
and, commencing from the fold at the shoulder, place the strip in position
down the right front and along the foot of the costume. (In the case of the
Japanese costume shown in Fig. 139, a little extra length was allowed, and the
Fig. Japanese Costume for Children's Plays.
foot was finished with a hem instead of by means of facing.) Now, commencing
at the left shoulder-fold, place a strip down the left side of the front opening as
far as point J. A separate strip may then be placed across the back of the neck
from shoulder to shoulder, and neatly joined to the strips down each side of the
front opening, so that there is now a continuous length of facing round the neck
and fronts. Lastly, place the facing round the bottom of each sleeve, joining
neatly at the seams. Machine down all these facings at both outer and inner
edges.
—
Sash. Machine a narrow hem along each selvedge edge of the sash and the
strip for the bow. The two short ends of the strip for the sash should also be
turned under and machined.
Deal with the strip for the bow as follows. Fold in the two ends of the strip
so that they overlap eacli other slightly at the dotted line [see Fig. 136(6) ]. Gather
along this dotted line through the three tliicknesses, and draw up to a suitable
size, say about 3 in. Next machine a narrow hem completely round the strip
reserved for the centre knot of the bow. Place this strip round the gathered
centre of the bow-, joining the two ends neatly together at the back.
Pleat each end of the sash to the same width as the centre of the bow (i.e.,
about 3 in.), and attach the bow neatly to one of these pleated ends. Attach
hooks and eyes for fastening the sash.
—
Fastenings. The front may be fastened by means of press-studs. Fit the
costume on to the intended wearer to ascertain the exact position in which to
place these. Three or four only will be required, the lowest one being placed
just above the knee. Press-studs may also be used to secure the top of each bow
in a raised position at the back.
(B) ISINO MATERIAL 27 in. WIDE.

Materials and Cost. —3
J yds. of Japanese art muslin, 27 in. wide, at 7|d. per
yd. = 2s. 3-]d. 60 sateen, 30 in. wide, at 6d. per yd. = lOd.
in. of Small items,
i.e., cotton, press-studs, hooks and eyes = Id. Total cost = 3s. 2^d.
This pattern differs from the one above described in having the sleeves cut
separately from the main portion.
(a) Diagram. —
Let girls first copy Figs. 140(fl) and 140(6) into their record
books shoAving the dimensions. This should be done after measuring the intended
wearer from the shoulder almost to the ankles to ascertain whether anj^ variation
in length is necessary.
(b) Cutting out in Paper. — —
Main Portion. Supply each girl with sufficient
cutting-out paper for her to obtain from it pieces measuring 45 in. by 27 in., and
36 in. by 13 J in. On the first of these let her draft the pattern of the fronts shown
on the field PDHR
in Fig. I40{a), and cut away the shaded portion for the neck,
leaving the line ST uncut for the present.
Sleeve. —
On the smaller piece of paper let her draft the pattern of one sleeve
only, and cut away the shaded portions.
No paper pattern will be required for the sash or facings.
(c) —
Cutting out in Material. Supply each girl with 3i yds. of material.
Let her divide it into lengths of 2| yds. and 1 yd. respectively, the former for the
trunk portion, and the latter for the sleeves.
—
Main Portion. As the back of the garment simply consists of IJ yds. of 21 -in.
wide material, it will require no cutting. Keeping the material opened out to its
full length, place the paper pattern, therefore, on that half only which is to form
-ir'
Back
Right s let
H A i_ r H /K lT
Front r R O
Fig. 140(a). Japanese Costume for Children's Plays.

Second Pattern, using Japanese Art Muslin 27 in. wide.
For Sateen Sash and Facings see Figs. 136 ib), 137, and 138.
13— (815c)
the front of the garment. The Unc PR
will, theref<jrc, lie exactly across the centre
of the entire length of material. Pin on the pattern, cut up the line ST through
both paper and material, and also cut round the neck-curve.
—
Sleeve. Double the remaining piece of material, which is 1 yd. in length, into
halves down the selvedge way. Place the line KIM to the fold [sec Fig. 140(6) ],
pin on the pattern, and cut out the two sleeves. Separate the sleeves by cutting
down the line KM.
R I G M T LEFT
Sleeve Sleeve
Fig. 140(6). Sleeve for Japanese Costume.

Seams. —Machine up the sleeve-seams, joining JK to LM, and KO to MN
[see Fig. 140(6) ]. Employ French seams for this. Machine up the side-seams
as far as the sleeve-openings, joining to DC, and AB
to EF HG
[see Fig. 140(a) ].
Next machine in each sleeve, keeping the seam of the sleeve to the seam of
the costume. Again employ French seams.
—
Facings, Sash, and Fastenings. Deal with these exactly as described under
preceding exercise.
12. BREAD DOYLEY.

" Wheat-ear " stitch taught. Revision of Scalloping.
Materials Employed for One Doyley. —A
piece of fine Saxony cloth, or other
suitable material, 13 in. square. (The size of the square should, of course, vary
with the size of the trencher for which the doyley is intended.) Green and gold
embroidery cotton of a suitable texture.
BREAD DOYLEY. 193
—
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Four Doyleys. 26 in. of Saxony cloth (usually
about 30 in. wide) at lid. per yd. = 8d. Embroidery silk = 6d. (For varieties
of embroidery silk, see section in General Instructions.) Total cost for four =
Is. 2d., or 3Jd. each.

[a) Diagram. —
Let each girl first make a dimensioned drawing of Fig. 141 in
her record book. This should be done after measurement of the bread trencher
for which the doylev is intended. Each girl may then make any alteration found
necessary- and enter the revised dimensions in her record book.
Fig. 141. Bread Doyley.
It is assumed that thegirls have already had practice in drawing circles and
in the use of compasses in lower-standard exercises, e.g., in making a scalloped
mob hat in Standard V. (A detailed lesson on the construction of circles is given
on page 43 of the authors' Handwork and Needlework, published by Sir I. Pitman &
Sons.)
(h) Cutting out in Paper. —
If the girls are proficient in constructing circles,
omit this step, as it is advisable that the circles should be described straight away
on the material.
(c) —
Cutting out i.v Material. Supply each pair of girls with a width of the
material 13 in. long. If the material is more than 26 in. wide, let them cut off
any excess in width, and then divide the remainder into two 13-in. squares. Let
each girl now describe on her own square one circle of 6| in. radius, another of
6 in. radius, and a third of 5J in. radius. The two smaller circles are required to
act as guide-lines for making the scallops. Let each girl now cut round the
outermost circle.

—
Scalloping. First draw and work the scallops. A full description of the
method of doing this is given in the case of the " Peter Pan " collar on page 118.
Let the girls use green embroidery cotton for this purpose.
Fig. 142. Bread Doyley, showing Wheat-ear Design and Scallops.
Design. —Thedesign shown in Fig. 142, based on the wheat-ear and blade,
is suitable for the purpose forwhich the doyley ^^^[ll be used. Each girl should,
however, first draw out her own design on paper, and submit it to the teacher
for criticism. \\Tien she is able to produce this readily on paper, she may sketch
it straight away on material and proceed to work it as follows. Use gold embroidery
cotton for the ears, and green for the blades and stalks. Work the outlines of the
long, narrow leaves in chain stitch, and it will be found that no other filling-in
will be required. The stalks should be worked in stem stitch.
The stitch for working the wheat-ears themselves is a variation of chain stitch.
BREAD DOYLE Y. 195
It consists of an ordinary chain stitch with a long diagonal stitch worked on each
side into the bottom of the loop of the chain. Fig. 143 shows clearly the method
of working.
Fig. 143. Method of making Wheat-ear Stitch,

STANDARD VI REPAIRING LESSONS.
1. Revision.
Any of the Repairing Lessons described inukr previous standards.
2. Flat Patching of Print Garments where no Seams or Gathers are involved.
Select a piece of material for the patch large enoiigii to cover ail the worn
part, and to extend an inch or so beyond it in each tlirectifjn. Take care that
the pattern on the patch matches the pattern on the worn part of the garment.
Turn down on to the wrong side a fold of ^ in. all round the patch.
Place the patch in position on the right side of the garment, pinning first the
two selvedge edges, secondly, the two weft-way edges, and then tacking them.
Oversew on, holding the patch towards the worker, and using cotton of a colour
to correspond with the leading colour in the print. Flatten out the join thoroughly.
Turn to the wrong side, and cut away the worn material to within i in. of
the oversewing stitches, so that the cut edges lie exactly over the turned-in raw
edges of the patch.
Secure these edges together by loop stitch. This method is adopted in order
to avoid having two sets of stitches visible on the right side. Overcasting may
be used insteail of loop stitcli wlicrc speed is desired.
3. Patching Flannelette, Calico, Muslin, and Print Garments, with special attention
to patching a portion where a Seam occurs, or a portion set into Gathers,
e.g., Under-arm Patches, or Knee-patches.
(a) A Patch adjoining a Seam. —
When a patch is needed near a seam, first
notice the kind of seam emploved in making the garment, as this must be recon-
structed in the new material forming the patch or patches. Unpick the seam
for an inch or so beyond the worn material. Keep the garment wrong side out
except in the case of a garment made of print or dress material.
Pin on the patch or patches over the worn material, taking care not to turn
down the sides of the patch next the seam. If the seam is curved, see that the
edge of the patch projects beyond the seam in order to allow for shaping the curve
in the new^ material. Tack on the patch, paying particular attention to the holding
of the work, as the correct management of this facilitates fiat tacking. Sew on
the patch in the manner best suited to the material. It will be necessary to sew
round three sides only of the patch, as the fourth will be joined into the seam.
Carefully remove the worn part to within | in. of the first sewing stitches,
taking care to cut away the worn material entirely at the section of the garment
adjoining the seam.
Turn in the raw edges along the three sides to be worked (except in the case
of a herring-boned patch), and oversew- or hem round these three sides ;hemming
is much better in the case of muslin or thin material. When the garment is of
print or dress material, sew it on the right side of the garment and overcast it on
the wrong.
Shape the edge of the patch or patches adjoining the seam, so that the curve
IS continuous with the raw edges of the opened-out seam.
Finish the mending by reconstructing a seam similar to the original one.
{b) A Patch on a Portion set into Gathers. —
Unpick the band for a dis-
tance extending for an inch or so each side of the worn pari;. Place and sew on
the patch exactly as in the case of a patch adjoining a seam. Only three sides
^ For method of conducting the lessons, see General Instructions.
196
—
STANDARD VI REPAIRING LESSONS. 197
of the patch A\-ill, therefore, be sewn on the fourth side being left free for gathering
;
into the band. Carefully remove the worn part to within J in. of the sewing
stitches, taking care to cut away the worn part entirely at that portion of the
work to be set into the band. Now complete the sewing of the right side of the
patch, cut its edges level with the raw edges of the garment, gather the fourth
side, and set it into the band.
4. Patching the Worn Corner of a Sheet or Apron.
Undo the hems at the corner of the sheet or apron for a distance of 1 in. or
2 in. beyond the worn portion in the case of each hem.
Flatten out the hems as well as possible between the fingers or under an iron.
Choose a piece of material for the patch sufficiently large to more than cover the
worn part, and to extend right to the raw edges of the flattened-out hems.
Turn in a narrow fold along the two inside edges of this patch, tack it into
position on the \\-Tong side, and hem it on.
Cut away the worn material to Avithin J in. of the sewing stitches on the wrong
side, taking care to cut awa^^ the worn part entirely along the two sides which
form the corner of the sheet or apron.
Turn under and hem, on the right side, the two inside edges of the patch.
Turn down hems along the two free edges of the patch to continue exactly
the hems along the sides of the sheet or apron, and sew these down.
5.Darning Combinations and other Woollen Garments presenting more difficulty
than those in Standard V.
In mending finely woven garments, it is often necessary to modify the accepted
method of darning, on account of the fineness and structure of the stockingette or
woven material.
6. Darning and Mending of Lace or Muslin Curtains.
The chief points to remember are
(a) Not to draw the curtain out of shape in any way ;
(b)to make the dam as inconspicuous as possible ;
(c) to arrange the darning threads as far as possible so as not to break the
continuity of the pattern of the curtain.
In the case of lace curtains, select cotton of the same thickness as the threads
of the lace.
Holes in curtains should be lightly drawn together before the curtains are
washed. The actual darning should be done when they are " rough-dry." The
subsequent ironing will then flatten out the work.
7. Mending with the Aid of a Sewing-machine.
The following are examples of such mendings
(a) ^Making one good towel from two thin ones, by laying one upon the other,
and machining the edges together.
(b) Cutting out the best pieces from worn garments and machining them
round to form dusters. Machining strips of waste material together for the same
purpose. Smooth cotton material is the most suitable for the purpose.
(c) Cutting the best pieces from old table-cloths, and machining them round
to form serviettes, tray-cloths, or sideboard cloths. Narrow crochet edgings may
be sewn round the tray-cloths and sideboard cloths.
(d) Utilising the best parts of worn sheets for making pillow and bolster-covers
to go under the slips. The sound parts of old sheets may also be used as
dust-sheets to go over furniture.
STANDARD VII,
AND More Advanxed Pupils, i.e., Girls of 13 to 15 Years.
I. NIGHTDRESS FOR GIRLS OWN WEAR.

Method of dealing with front opening, and second method of setting in
SLEEVES TAUGHT. SETTING OF SHAPED COLLAR INTO NECK-BAND. NeVV
crochet EDGING TAUGHT FOR DECOR.\TION.
—
Materials and Cost. 3J^ yds. of madapollam, 40 in. wide, at 8|d. per yd. =
2s.5Jd. One ball crochet cotton (No. 24) = 2d. Small items, e.g., sewing cotton,
embroidery cotton, buttons, etc. = 1^. Total cost = 2s. 8^d.

{a) Di.\GRAM. —
Let the girls enter Figs. 144(a), (6), (c), and {d) in books, showing
dimensions. This should be done after measuring the intended wearer. Any
variation in length or width from the standard size can be quite easily made, and
the entry in the books varied accordingly. In the case of an alteration in width,
let the increase or decrease be made at the centre line of the back and front. The
alteration in length can be made in the distance below the armhole.
Supply each girl with sufficient cutting-out paper
for her to obtain from it fields of the following dimensions : 50 in. by 20 in. for
the pattern of the half -front ;50 in. by 17 in. for the half-back ; 20 in. by 16 in.
for the sleeve and 8i in. by 10 in. for the turned-down collar. No paper pattern
;
will be required for the wristbands, or collar-band. Let her draft out the patterns
of the various parts on the fields provided for them, and cut away the shaded
portions.
(c) —
Cutting out in Material. Supply each girl with a length of madapollam
40 wide, and 3\ yds. long.
in.
(1) Front. —Let her first cut off from this a length of 50 in. for the front of
the garment. As this is double-width material, it will already be folded into
halves down the selvedge wav, and this fold should be retained. Pin the paper
on to the double material with the Hne ABplaced to the fold, and cut out the
front. Starting from the neck-cur\-e, cut down the centre fold for a length of
16 in. or 17 in. for the front opening.
(2) Back. —
Let her cut off a second length of 50 in. for the back. In this
case, the complete width will not be required for the cutting of the backs them-
selves. Fold back a width of 17 in. downa the selvedge way of the material, thus
producing a length of doubled material 50 in. long and 17 in. wide, with the exces-
sive width of 6 in. projecting at one side. Pin the pattern of the half-back on to
the double material, with the hne CD to the fold. Cut out the back.
(3) Tiirned-dovini Collar. —From the large piece left over from the cutting-out
of the back, cut a piece of madapollam 17 in. bv 10 in. Fold this into halves across
the weft way, keeping the fold at the top. Pin the pattern of the collar on to
198
C.-i_^ - - - - 4- i' - -
Fig. 144(6).
Nightdress for Girl of 12 to 13 Years.
200 NEEDLEWORK WITHOrT SPECIMENS.
the double material with the line EF placed to the fold at the top, and cut out
the collar.
(4) Sleeves. —
Take the 20-in. length remaining, and open it out to its full width.
Fold back a width of 16 in. down the selvedge way of the material, thus producing
a length of doubled material 20 in. long and 16 in. wide, with the excessive width
of 8 in. of single material projecting at one side. Pin the sleeve pattern on to the
double material, and cut out the sleeve.
Ha LFCoLL^R
«- - - 9"- - - -,
\^\ R 1 5 ^
5 * f^' D .
Fig. 144(c). Sleeve of Nightdress Half-collar and

Fig. 144(^).
FOR Girl of 12 to 13 Years. Wristband for Nightdress.
(5) Wristband, Collar-band, and False Hems for Front. The wristbands and —
false pieces for the front may
be cut from the strip left over from the cutting of
the sleeves. (The dimensions of the false pieces are given below under " Instruc-
tions for Making.") The two crossway pieces for the collar-band, each 15 in.
long and 1 in. may be obtained from the material left over from
wide, cutting the
front. The neck-bands may be cut selvedge way, if preferred.
—
Seams. Machine the side, shoulder, and sleeve-seams, placing these by the
run-and-fell method. In placing the sleeve-seams, be most careful to arrange
the sleeves to pair for the right and left arms. Note the difference in the curves
for the top (large curve) and for the under side (hollowed curve).
—
Hem. Machine a hem round the bottom about 1 in. in depth.
—
Front Opening. This has already been cut exactly in the middle of the
front. Two strips of material are required for the false hems, one for the left-
hand side (that is, the wearer's left) 1 in. wide, and J in. longer than the opening,
NIGHTDRESS FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR. 201
and one for the right-hand side, 2 in. wide and 1| in. longer than the opening.
Deal Avith the left-hand side of the opening as follows. Place the right side of the
false hem to the right side of the material, and machine the two thicknesses together
along a line about J in. in from the edge of the opening. Turn the false hem on
to the Avrong side of the garment, and machine it down exactly as for a facing.
Cut off the lower free end of the false piece level with the end of the
opening.
Now apply the wide false piece to the right-hand side of the opening as on the
wearer. Place the right side of the strip to the wrong side of the garment, with
the edges even, allowing the \\ in. extra length at the bottom of the opening, and
machine the edges together. Turn the fold on to the right side in such a way that
the join is left just out of sight under the folded edge. Fold under the long raw
edge of the strap, and tack the turned-in edge flat down on to the garment, as
far as the lower end of the opening. Arrange the centre of the bottom part in
the form of a point. Cut away some of the material of the turning of the strip
near the point to prevent the work being too bulky. Tack the point to the gar-
ment. Feather-stitch down the two long edges, and round the point of the mitred
strap.
Cut across the under or left-hand side of the opening at the bottom of the
false hem as far as the hemming stitches. This will leave the lower end of the
opening sufficiently free for the upper piece to wrap over the under one for 1 in.
The under false hem, therefore, now lies below the middle third of the upper one.
Complete the opening by sewing the under part of the upper false hem to the top
part of the under false hem at a \ in. above the cut edges, and without allowing
the stitches to show through on the right side. Neaten the wrong side by means
of a piece of tape about 1^ in. long, turned in at each end and hemmed down over
the raw edges.
—
Finishing at Neck. Place the turned-down collarbetween the two crossway
pieces which will form the neck-band, as follows. Lay the right side of one strip
upon the right side of the collar with its edges to the raw edge of the collar, and
the right side of the other strip upon the wrong side of the edge of the collar, in a
similar way. Begin all the fixing from the middle point at the back of the collar.
There will be about \ in. of neck-band projecting at each end of the turned-down
collar. ^Machine the three edges together without puckering.
Gather each side of the front neck-curve from the false hem to within 1 in.
of the shoulder-seam. Pin the middle of the neck-band to the middle of the back
of the neck-curve, placing the right side of the band to the right side of the gar-
ment, and tack the edge of the band to the edge of the neck-curve, leaving \ in.
of the band projecting at each side of the front opening. Machine the tacked
edges together. Fold down the lining portion of the neck-band, and turn under
the raw edge. Tuck it down so that the folded edge lies exactly over the line
of machining showing through from the right side. Hem it down without the
stitches showing through. Turn in the ends of the band, and oversew them
neatly.
Sleeves. —Gather the wrist of the sleeve in readiness for insertion into the
cuff, allowing 1| in. on either side of the seam. Join each wristband into
plain
a round by machining the raw edges together on the wrong side. Fold each cuff
into halves along its length, and turn under the raw edges. Place the seam of
the Avristband to the seam of the sleeve, hem the wristband across the part of the
material left plain, and set in the gathers of the remaining portion. Finish the
202 NEEDLEWORK WITHOl'T SPECIMENS.
wrong side of the band in the usual way. Tlie wristbands may be machined on
if preferred.
When setting in the sleeves, be careful to choose the correct sleeve for the
armhole when a sleeve is held right side out and the right way up, the large curve
;
will be to the wearer's right hand in a right-arm sleeve, and to the wearer's left
hand in a left-arm sleeve.
Before gathering the top of the sleeve, ascertain how much material has to be
disposed of by gathering, and gather twice as much. When setting in the sleeve,
arrange these gathers equally on each side of the shoulder-line. Set in the j^leeve
by a maclained run-and-fell seam, being careful to place the sleeve-seam about
1 1 in. in front of the under-arm seam.
The arm-curve of the nightdress itself should form the fell to arrange for ;
this, place the edge of the sleeve below the arm-curve of the garment. Machine
all round the curve, including the gathered portion turn in the raw edges of the
;
arm-curve, and machine this turned-in edge down on to the sleeve. It is advisable
to adopt this method in the case of a gathered sleeve, as it makes the setting-in
of the gathers neat and secure.
—
Fastenings. The neck-band will be fastened by means of a loop and button,
as it is a difficult place for working a button-hole. (Instructions for working a
loop are given in the case of a pinafore for child of 3 or 4 vears on page 108.) Two
button-holes should be worked on the right-hand false hem, evenly placed between
the neck and the bottom of the front opening. These button-holes should be
about f in. in length, cut vertically, and worked with square or round ends.
Buttons to correspond will be placed on the left-hand false hem.
—
Decoration. Decorate the wristbands and turned-down collar with feather-
stitching. Sew crocheted lace edging round the edge of the turned-down collar,
and the wristbands. Detailed instructions for suitable patterns are given on
pages 202 and 203 of Knitting without " Specimens," pubhshed by Pitman, the
companion book to this work.
Imitation torchon lace, which can be bought at Id. per yd., may be used if
preferred. Another edging, and one which wears extremely well, is Cash's Coventry
frilling. One of the " ruffled " edgings {i.e., an edging gathered into a narrow
feather-stitched band) will be found verj^ suitable for the purpose, and can be
obtained at 2id. or 3d. per yd.
2. COMBINATIONS FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR

More difficult cutting and placing involved, and further application of

PREVIOUS stitches.
—
Materials and Cost of One Pair. 2J 3-ds. of flannelette, calico, or longcloth,
not less than 34 in. wide, at 7Jd. per yd. = Is. 5d. 2|- yds. of crocheted lace
edging costing about Id. per yd. to produce = 2|-d. h skein of flax thread or
embroidery cotton, at Id. per skein = |d. J doz. Hnen buttons a.t Id.
per doz. = |d. Tape for neck and for neatening back = ;^d. Total cost of one
pair = Is. 9d.
{a) Diagram. —Let the children enter Fig. 145 {a) in books, sho\\-ing dimensions.
Fig. 145 (a). Combinations for a Girl of 13 to 14 Years.
This should be done after measurement of the intended wearer to see wlicther
any variation from the standard size is necessary.
Any increase or decrease in length may be made in the leg portion.
To adapt the ivUlth of the garment to fit a particular figure, make an increase
or decrease of the required amount on each side of the field, and then make a
corresponding alteration along the lines of the centre front and centre back when
drafting the pattern. All other measurements {e.g., for armhole and shoulder-
curves) may remain constant.
large for her to cut from it a field measuring 40 in. by 32 in. On this field let her
make the measurements shown in the diagram, draw in the outline of the pattern,
(c) —
80 in. in length. Let her fold this material into halves across the weft way, keeping
the fold at the top. Let her then pin on her pattern and cut out the combinations
in the double material. It should be remembered that, as the material is wider
than the pattern, any excess in width should be left projecting from one side only.
From the spare material thus left, the knee-bands should be cut. A suitable
if a more
size for each knee-band is 15 in. by 2 in., but they may be cut longer
loosely -fitting knee-band is preferred.
Knee: Band. Kf^JEE B/\ND

IS" '* '^
Fig. 145(6). Knee-bands for Combinations.

Seams and Knee-bands.— Make up the leg-seams and knees of the garment
as described under the making of girl's knickers, Exercise 4, Standard VI, on
page 159.
—
Facing of Leg Portions. ^Face the fronts and backs of the knickers portion
of the combinations along the curves AB
and CD, with crossway pieces cut 1 in.
wide.
Joining of Back.
run-and-fell seam.
— Join the backs of the bodice portion by a machined
Under- ARM and Shoulder Seams. —

^These should also be machined run-and-
fellseams with the fells turning towards the back of the garment. The under-arm
seams must taper towards their lower end.
—
Finishing of Neck and Armholes. Face the neck-curve with a crossway
piece, and insert a tape or ribbon for drawing up the neck, bringing the draw-
string out through eyelet holes as described in dealing with a flannelette petticoat
on page 89. Face the armholes also with crossway pieces.
—
Finishing at Back. Finish the back of the garment as follows. Gather along
the top of each of the pieces projecting at the waist, and lay one over the other.
Place over the gathered portion a strap of material to cover in the gathers and
COiMBINATIONS FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR. 205
to strengthen theback (see Fig. 146). Hem or machine this strap into position.
Neaten the wrong side of the gathers by hemming a broad tape over the raw edges.
—
Fastenings. Work about half-a-dozen button-holes with round ends, cutting
them lengthways on the right-hand front hem,
and sew buttons on the left-hand hem to
correspond with the button-holes.
Decoration. —-Work feather-stitching round
the armholes and knee-bands, using the double
feather-stitching taught in the instructions for
making a pincushion on page 153 (see Fig. 110).
If lace crocheted by the girl herself is employed
for decoration, let her make it in separate portions,
each one of the length requisite to fit the particular
part of the garment for which it is intended. A
suitable and easy pattern is described in Exercise
"
10, page 202 of Knitting without " Specimens
(Pitman), the companion book to this work. The
portions worked for the knee-bands should be
sufi&ciently long to allow of a little fullness when
they are oversewn on.
Imitation torchon lace, which can be bought at
Id. per yd., may be used if preferred. Another
edging, and one which wears extremely well, is
"
Cash's Coventry friUing. If one of the " ruffled
edgings is employed {i.e., an edging gathered Fig. 146.
into a narrow feather-stitched band), only 2^ yds. Method of dealing with
will be required. 2Jd. or 3d. per yd. is a fair
Fullness at the Back
price for this frilling. OF Combinations.
3. BLOUSE FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR

Method of setting on a yoke and inserting a waist-runner taught.

Revision of setting in sleeves by first method, and of attachment
OF shaped collar. Decorative stitches.
Materials and Cost.
{a) Using Material 40 ix. wide. — \\ yds. of casement cloth or nun's veiling,
40 in. wide, at Is. 2d. per yd. = Is. 9d. Embroidery cotton or
2d. (For silk =
varieties of Embroidery Cottons and Silks, see section in General Instructions.)
Small items, i.e., sewing cotton, buttons, and calico for lining yoke = 2d. Total
cost = 2s. Id.
(6) Using Material 30 in. wide. —
2 yds. of zephyr, print, or casement cloth,
30 in. wide, at 7|-d. per yd. = Is. 3|d. Embroidery cotton = 2d. Small items,
i.e., sewing cotton and buttons — l|d. Total cost = Is. 7d.
{a) Diagram. —
Let the girls enter Figs. 147(a), (&), (c), and {d) in their books,
showing dimensions. This should be done after measuring the intended wearer.
BLOUSE FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR. 207
Any vanation in length or width from the standard size can be quite easily made^
and the entry in the book varied accordingly.
-Ai -.
Fig. 147(c). Yoke for Blouse.
Fig. 147 (^). Sleeve for Blouse.
In the case of an alteration in width, the variation may be made in the width
of the yoke and the length of the collar-band only, as this blouse, being cut full,
allows of some expansion for a fuller figure without materially affecting the fit.
14—<8i5C)
Any alteration in length can be made bj'- increasing or decreasing the length
at the seams below the armhole.
If each girl is given a piece of cutting-out paper
39 in. by 33 in., she will be able to obtain from it fields for the half-front, the half-
back, the yoke, and the sleeve. No patterns will be required for the cuffs or for
the box pleat, as these, being quite straight, can be measured on the material
direct, and cut off. Let each girl draft the patterns of the various parts on the
fields apportioned for them, and cut them out. If the pattern of the " Peter Pan
"
collar has not already been drafted in Standard V, each girl must also prepare
a pattern, but, in this case, extra paper will be needed.
Wrist Band 4i
Fig. 147(f). Band and Front Fold for Blouse.

(c) Cutting out in Material. (1) — —
Using Material 40 in. wide. Supply each
girl with H yds. of material.
This length is Hin. greater than is actually required
for cutting out the blouse, but this extra length may be left on for the present,
in case of inaccuracies occurring in the cutting.
The exact method of arranging the pattern in order to obtain the blouse from
this amount of material is clearly sho\\-n on Fig. 148.
(2) —
Using Material 30 in. wide. Supply each girl with 2 yds. of material.
This length is J in. greater than is actually required for cutting out the blouse,
but this small margin is necessary to allow for slight inaccuracies in cutting. The
exact method of arranging the pattern in order to obtain the blouse from this
amount of material is clearly shown on Fig. 149.
—
Seams. Join the side and sleeve seams by machining, employing French
seams as the blouse hangs loosely.
—
Yoke. Turn under narrow folds along the bottom of the yoke and its lining.
Set the top of the back of the blouse between these, keeping it quite plain except
for two small pleats, facing each other at the centre, to use up any extra fullness.
Fix on the yokes by machining.
Gather along the shoulder-line of each front from the neck to within IJ in. of
the armhole. Turn under narrow folds along the shoulder edges of the yoke and
its lining, set in the fronts between these, and machine along.
—
Front Hems. Turn up a narrow fold on to the right side along the edge of
the right front. Turn under a narrow fold on to the wrong side along each selvedge
edge of the false piece which is to form the box pleat for the front. Place this
false piece to face on to the front of the blouse, so that the right-hand folded edge
of the false piece lies exactly over the turned-up edge of the front. Machine
ilY.,
Fig. 148. Method of Cutting Blouse from Material 1|- yds. long
and 40 in, wide.
long and
Fig 149. Method of Cutting Blouse from Material 2 yds.
30 in. wide.
—
these two folded edges together, and machine down the other long edge of the
false piece, to lie on the blouse beneath.
Machine a hem J in. deep down the edge of the left front.
—
Turned-down Collar. If the material is suitable, the collar may be scalloped,
and a design worked in each scallop as shown in the case of the " Peter Pan " collar
on page 118. If not, a narrow hem must be machined round all edges of the
collar, except the neck-curve. The collar may, however, be lined with the same
or a similar material, and the outer edges of both collar and lining machined to-
gether. This ^^^ll be found to set more firmly and evenly than the single collar.
A suggested decoration for this collar is described below under " Decoration."
—
Collar-band. Before attaching this to the neck, cut it into halves along its
length to allow for the insertion of the turned-down collar between its top edges.
Gather along the neck-curve of the wearer's left front from the shoulder-line
to ^^•ithin 1 in. of the edge. Gather along the neck-curve of the right front from
the false piece to the shoulder. The top of the false piece -will thus be left quite
plain. Set in the neck-curve between the lower edges of the collar-band, keeping
the voke portion of the curve quite plain. Allow an extra J in. of the length of
the collar-band for the right half to extend along the overlapping false piece at
the front. Insert the neck-curve of the turned-down collar between the open
edges of the top of the band, taking care when placing the collar into the band
that its centre point is placed to the centre of the back of the blouse. Machine
the coUar into position.
—
Sleeves. Set on the cuffs, and insert the sleeves in the manner described in
dealing with a girl's simple yokeless frock on page 184.
—
Bottom of Blouse. ^Machine a hem J in. deep along the bottom of the blouse,
and insert a tape to draw it up as described on page 177.
—
Fastenings. ^Make a horizontal button-hole at the right-hand end of the
neck-band at a distance of 1 in. in from the edge, with the round end nearest the
edge and the square end inside. Make four button-holes down the front, spacing
them equally bet^veen the neck and the bottom of the blouse. These should be
worked with two round corners, and should be cut vertically in the middle of
the false piece. Sew on pearl buttons to correspond with the button -holes, on
the left-hand end of the neck-band and
the left-hand hem of the blouse.
—
Decoration. If the collar is scalloped
like the " Peter Pan " collar already des-
cribed, a pretty variation in decoration is
afforded by a shamrock leaf worked in
each scallop. After a little practice on
drawing paper, it will be found that the
girls can sketch this readily on the ^ , „, ^ ^
material. The stem of the leaf may be ÎG^ 150. Suggested Design for
worked in stem stitch, the outline in chain Scalloped Blouse Collar.
stitch, and the veining in single feather-
stitch (sse Fig. 150). In this case, single feather-stitch or chain stitch may be
worked down either side of the box pleat and on each edge of the cuff.
If the collar has been finished by a narrow hem, or has been lined and machined
round the edges, the blouse may be decorated in either of the following ways
(1) Work feather-stitching in conjunction with knotting round the edges of
the collar, cuffs, and front fold (see Frontispiece).
—
(2) A line of French knots or of chain stitch may be worked round the edges
of the collar, cuffs, and front fold, and the two front corners of the collar further
ornamented by a small spray of leaves or flowers or
a conventional design. If the blouse is white, cream,
or of a pale neutral tint, a design based on the wild
rose supplies pretty colouring. Such a design is shown
in Fig. 151. The outline of the circle may be marked
round a halfpenny. The rose design is next drawn
in, and its outline worked in pale pink with graduated
button-hole stitch. The centre of the rose may be worked
in satin stitch with embroidery silk golden brown in
colour. The background of the rose may
be filled in
with satin stitch worked in a suitable shade of green. pj^ j^j
If this design is adopted, the other decorative stitches
Conventional Design
on the blouse should be in one of the three colours ^^j^ Corner of
employed in the design. Blouse Collar.
4. SERGE SKIRT FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR

{i.e., for Girl of 13 to 15 years).
Method of dealing with seams in thick material taught. Method of

treating placket and band introduced.
Materials and Cost of Two Skirts.— 2^ yds. of serge, 44 in. wide, at Is. lid. per
yd. = 4s. 9id. li yds. of waist-webbing at Id. per yd. = l^d. Small items,
e.g., Prussian binding for placket, press-studs, and cotton = 3d. Total cost =
5s. 2d., or 2s. 7d. for one skirt.

(a) Diagram. —Let
the girls enter the diagrams of the three sections of the
skirt in their books,showing dimensions (see Fig. 152). This should be done after
the waist and length measurement of each girl has been taken. Any variation
in waist measurement or length from the standard size can then be made as follows
(1) The length may be varied by increasing or decreasing the length of the field,
-without altering any other dimensions which affect the shape of the skirt. (The
length given in the diagram allows for a hem If in. deep at the foot of the skirt.
Each girl will therefore make the length given in her diagram equal to her own
skirt length plus 2 in.)
(2) The waist-measiirement. The pattern here shown is to fit a girl having
a waist-measurement of 26 in. As each seam will take up about 1 in. of the
Avidth, and there are four seams, the actual waist-length given in the diagram is
26 in. plus 4 in. =30 in. Each girl will therefore enter a waist-length on her
diagram equal to her own measurement plus 4 in. When, however, the waist-
length is thus varied, care must be taken to preserve the correct relationship
between the lengths of the waist-lines of the different gores.
Supply each girl with two pieces of paper, each
measuring at least 29 in. by 22 in. Greater length must be supplied if the girl
SERGE SKIRT FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR. 213
has added to the standard length in drawing her diagram. On one of these pieces
let her draft the pattern of the side gore, and on the other the patterns of the back
and front gores, and cut these out.
^-/"
.^^, /*
One
Side
CO R C
Fig. 152. Cloth or Serge Skirt for a Girl of 13 to 14 Years.

^The girls will work in pairs, as two skirts are
cut out at once. (The skirts cut out together will, of course, fit two girls of equal
size. Arrange the girls in pairs accordingly.) To each pair of girls supply an
87-in. length (or the length found to be required) of double-width material 44 in.
wide. Retain the fold in the material, as shown by the line AB of Fig. 153. This
figure shows the paper pattern of one complete skirt laid on the double-width
material. Therefore, by cutting through the double material, two skirts will be
obtained. (In order to place the complete paper pattern of a skirt on the material,
it wiU be necessary to use the side-gore patterns cut by both girls.) 'Note care-
fully that, in each case, the two side gores cut out simultaneously must be kept
together for the right and left gores of the same skirt, as the wrong sides of the
material in these face each other.
— —
Seams. (a) First Method. Pin all the gores together on the wrong side in
readiness for the seams, following the instructions as regards relative positions
shown in the diagram of the pattern. Commence the pinning at the waist in each
case. Leave, however, about 10 in. open at the top of the left-hand side of the
front gore for the placket. Tack the seams firmly, and work one line of machining
at J in. in from the edge as shown in Fig. 154, Step 1. The two front seams will
Fig. 153. Arrangement showing Method of Cutting Two Skirts
simultaneously.
turn towards the centre of the front gore, and the two back ones towards the
centre of the back gore. Cut away the under edge of each seam to half its depth ;
i.e., for J in., as shown in Fig. 154, Step 2. Turn under a narrow fold along the
projecting side of each seam, and tack and machine down on to the material, as
shown in Step 3. The finished appearance of a seam of this kind is shown in
Step 4. In the case of thick material,
it is advisable to bind the projecting
edge with Prussian binding instead of
turning it under before the second row
of machining is worked.
(&) Second Method. —
" Open -
stitched " seams may be employed if
preferred, and are worked as follows.
Machine the gores together by a single
row of machining at a distance of | in.
in from the edge, as shown under
Step 1 of First Method. Flatten out
the seams by pressing them under a
damp cloth, using a hot iron. An edge
will then project on cither side of the
machining, as shown in Fig. 155.
Bind each edge as shown at A, or Fig. 155. Open-stitched seam.
overcast it as shown at B. Machine
down each opened-out edge at a distance of ^ in. from the first machining, as
shown in Fig. 155.
—
Placket. Deal with the wearer's right-hand side of the placket first. Bind
the edge with Prussian binding. Fold under the edge for ^ in., thus continuing
the fold of the skirt-seam. Machine the fold down into position, letting the
machining continue the line of machining of the seam.
The under or left-hand side of the placket will be finished with a projecting
wrap. The piece of material used for this should be about 11 in. long and 2^ in,
wide. Turn down a narrow fold along each of the long edges of this strip, and
fold it into halves along its length. Insert the left-hand edge of the placket between
the open edges of this wrap for a distance in of J in. \\Tien placing on the wrap,
let it project for | in. below^ the bottom end of the opening. Machine the wrap
into position close to the folded edges, turn in the raw edges at the bottom end,
and sew up neatly. Fasten the placket by means of four or five press-studs, sewing-
the fasteners on the right-hand side on to the Prussian binding, and on the left-
hand side in such a position that the upper side of the placket fits exactly into
position and completely covers the false piece projecting from the left-hand
side.
Waist Webbing. —
To fit the waist measure shown in Fig. 152, 27 in. of doubled
webbing be required. Turn in the ends of the webbing, inserting the waist-
will
line of the skirt between the two edges of it, easing the skirt very slightly
while doing so, and machine on. Fasten the waistband with a strong hook
and eye.
Hem —
at Foot. Turn up a hem round the bottom about 2 in. deep, to make
the skirt of the required length, taking measurements from the waist downwards
at intervals all round the skirt, in order to ensure uniformity of length. In tacking
the hem, make small pleats at intervals in order to dispose of the extra fullness
SERGE SKIRT FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR. 217
caused by the outward slope of the seams. Machine round the hem, using two
rows of machining if desired. Flatten the hem by means of using a hot iron over
a damp cloth, exerting extra pressure over the pleats and seams. The finished
appearance of the skirt is shown in Fig. 156.
Fig. 156. Serge Skirt iok (jikl'.~. Ow:. \\i:,ak, showing Appearance on
Wearer.
5. SWIMMING DRESS FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR

{i.e.. for Girl of 13 to 14 Years).
More difficult drafting and cutting involved. Revision of machining on

crosswav pieces for facings.
Materials and Cost of Two Costumes. —
4 J yds. of Turkey twill or other material,
at least 32 in. wide, at 8^d. per yd. - 3s. 2d. i yd. of striped print, of colours
to blend with the twill, or of a contrasting colour, at 6|d. per yd. = 3Jt:l. Small
items, i.e., cotton, buttons, etc. = Id. Total cost of two costumes = 3s. 6Jd., or
Is. 9^d. each.
(a) Diagram. — Let the girls enter the diagram (Fig. 157) in their record books,
showing dimensions. This should be done after measurement of the intended
wearer to ascertain whether any variation from the standard size is necessary.
It is important to measure the intended wearer in the case of such a garment,
as girls at this age vary very much in height and figure. An increase in the width
may be made by increasing the 9-in. measurement along the shoulder-line AB,
and decreasing the 3i in. and 4-in. measurements from the outer edge of the field
to the neck. Any increase or decrease in length may be made in the leg portion,
and can be quite easily managed.
(6) Cutting out in Paper. —As the total 78-in. length of the pattern would
be difficult to deal with, supply each girl with two pieces of paper each 39 in. by
16 in, and let her cut out the patterns of the front and back halves separately.
(c) —
Cutting out in Material. Supply each girl with a length of material
78 in. long and 32 in. wide. Vary this amount if any alterations have been made
in the dimensions. Let her fold this into halves down the selvedge way, and pin
on the two portions of the pattern. In placing on the pattern, the shoulder-lines
of the back and front halves should be made to meet each other exactly, each
being placed to the fold AB (see Fig. 157). There will thus be no join on the
shoulder of the swimming costume when made up in the material. Let each girl
then cut out the pattern in the double material. It will be seen that the garment
is in two halves ; a complete right half, and a complete left half.
The false pieces of striped print for facing may next be cut. From h yd. of
material the facings for two costumes mav be obtained. Divide the | yd. of print
into halves down the selvedge way. Each half will measure 18 in. by 16 in.
(nearly), and will supply sufficient crossway pieces for facing one costume. Make
these crossway pieces 2 in. in width, and cut them as described under the facings
for the Japanese costume, noting, however, the variation in width.
—
Seams. Join the side seams and leg seams of each half separately, using
machined run-and-fell seams for the purpose.
Join the two halves together, beginning just below the waist-line of the front
{i.e., about 16 in. down from the neck), machine down the centre front seam, and
continue the seam up the centre back right to the neck. Again use the run-and-fell
method of placing the seam.
—
Preparation of False Pieces for Facing. It may be found necessary to
join some of the crossway pieces together, in order to obtain the lengths required.
Instructions for doing this are given in the case of a Japanese costume on page
188. (See Figs. 137 and 138.)
SWIMMING DRESS FOR GIRL'S OWN USE. 219
Front and Neck. —Deal with the wearer's left-hand

side of the front opening as described under the left-hand
side of front opening of a nightdress, i.e., face it undei
Avith a false piece 1 in. wide.
Deal with the wearer's right-hand side of the front
opening and with the neck as follows. Turn a narrow
fold on to the right side of the material completely u])
the side of the opening and round the neck. Take ;i
piece of the crossway material 1| in. longer than i
necessary to go up the right front and round the neck Halt
allowing for mitred corners. Turn under a narrow fold
on to the wTong side along each long edge of this crossway
Face this down on to the right side of the front
piece.
and tack it in position, leaving an end projecting foi
Bag k
IJ in. at the bottom of the front opening for forming
a pointed finish. WTien the neck is reached, arrang(
the turning in the form of a mitred corner, and continu*
to place the facing round the neck portion, making a
mitre at each angle of the neck. When the neck hai
been faced all round, cut off any extra length of th(
crosswav piece remaining, leaving only J in. at the end
which will be turned under and tacked down. Tacl
the inner edge of the crossway piece fiat to the garment,
round the neck and down the front. Arrange the
centre of the bottom end of the facing in the form of a
point. Cut away some of the material turned under to
form the point, to prevent the work being too bulky
Tack the pointed end to the garment. Machine th(
crossway piece to the garment completely round each
edge, including the point and the end at the left-hand /
side of the neck.
Finish off the bottom of the front opening as follows
Cut across the under or left-hand side of the opening
at the bottom of the false hem as far as the machining
stitches. This will leave the lower end of the opening
sufficiently free for the upper piece to lap over the undei
one a distance of 1 in. Complete the opening by sewing
the under part of the upper side of the opening to the
top part of the under false hem at ;^ in. above the cut
edges, and Avithout allowdng the stitches to show through
Fr ont
on the right side. Xeaten the wTong side by means oi
a piece of tape 1^ in. long, turned in at each end, and
hemmed down so as to cover the cut edges.
—
Facings of Sleeves and Legs. Place the facing
round each sleeve and round the bottom of each leg,
joining neatly at the seams. Machine down all these
facings at both outer and inner edges.
—
Fastenings. The front will be fastened by means
of four buttons and button-holes. The button-holes F 1S7. Swimming Dress
may be cut horizontally, and will present some difficulty, FOR A Girl 13 to 15 Years.
^20 NEEDLEWORK WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
as they are cut on the crossway material, and, consequently, the edges stretch
easily. In order to prevent the slit from fraying and to give added firmness,
the edges of the button-hole should be strandecl before working, in the manner
described under " Girl's Seamless Camisole " on page 179 [see Figs. 130(a) and
130(6)]. Small bone buttons are most suitable for use, as linen or metal ones
rust very easily.
The finished appearance of the swimming dress is shown in Fig. 15S.
Fig. 158. Swimming Dress showing

Appearance on Wearer.
FANCY BAG FOR CROCHET-WORK. 221
6. FANCY BAG FOR CROCHET-WORK.

Interlocked loop stitch taught for decoration, and bullion knots
introduced for drawing up the top.
Materials Employed. — A piece of Javacloth 15 in. by 7 in. Coloured embroidery
cotton or silk. (See section on " Embroidery Cottons and Silks " in General
Instructions.) 'V\Tiite se\ving cotton.
—
Quantity and Cost of Materials for Class of 50. 7J yds. Java cloth at 7Jd. per
yd.= 4s. 6Jd. Embroidery cotton or silk (for decoration and handles) = 2s. 9d.
Sewng cotton = Id. Total cost of 50 = 7s. 4id., or a little less than 2d. each.
(a) Diagram. —
Let the children first enter the diagram (Fig. 159) in books,
showing dimensions. Point out to them that the dotted line in the middle
represents the fold which will form the bottom of the bag.
(6) Cutting out in Material. —
Supply to each set of three girls a complete
w^dth of material 15 in. deep. From this let them each cut off a width 7 in. across,
using the full 15 in. for the length of the bag.
Fig. 159. Fancy Bag for Crochet-work.

Making up into Bag Form. —The making up may be done entirely by means
of machining. Join the sides by means of French seams, and make a hem ^ in.
in depth round the to of the bag.
—
Ill NEEDLEWORK WITHOUT SPECIMENS.

Decoration. —Theborder of interlocked loop stitch should be worked at a
distance of about J from each edge of the bag. A row of single loop stitch
in. in
is worked first, with the loops towards the outer edge of the bag. A second row
is then worked, each stitch being placed in the space between two stitches of the
previous row, and with the loops facing towards the centre of the bag (s-'c Figs.
160 and 161).
—
Bullion Knots used in Drawing up of Bag. Next let the girls work long
bulHon knots to form crosses (as seen in the photograph of the bag) for the draw-
strings to pass through. These are placed about \\ in. from the top of the bag,
and are worked as follows
Join on the embroidery cotton in the correct position for one end of the knot.
Next insert the point of the needle at the desired distance behind the point from
Fig. 160.
Method of Working Interlocked Loop Stitch.
FANCY BAG FOR CROCHET-WORK. 22a
Fig. Ibl.
Fancy Bag for Crochet-work.
15— (6150
—
224 NEEDLEWORK WITHOLT SPECIMENS.

which the cotton comes oat, and bring it out again at the f>oint of attachment
[see Fig. 162(a) Lea\-ing the needle p>artly drawn through, t^îst the cotton
'_.
from four to eight times round it, according to the length of the knot required
[see Fig. 162(6) \
Fig. 162(a). Method of Working a Bcixiox Knot (Position I).
Fig. 162(6). Method of Worki.ng a Bclliox Knot ^PosITIO.^ 11;.
Fig. 162(c). Method of Working a Bullion Knot (Position III .
Hold the twisted roll thus made between the left thumb and forefinger, and
carefnllv draw the needle through all the twists at once. Xow. still holding the roll
firmlv, put the needle back through the point A
to the wrong side of the material.
Take care to hold the knot firmly until the last possible moment, or some of the
TwisTS may become loosened and the shape of the knot spoilt. Fig. 162(c) shows
a comjdeted baDion knot. Both the interlocked loop stitch and buUion knots
^Knild be demonstrated on the frame by the teacher.
—
Draw-strings. Make each draw-string from the embroidery- cotton as follows.
With a medium steel crochet hook, crochet a chain 24 in. long. Work single stitch
ri^t along the rhain to thicken it. Pass each string under all the crosses formed
bv the knots, and sew the two ends of each together. Draw out the strings at
oppoate ades of the bag, thus closing up the top and forming handles.
7. DRILL TL'NIC AND KNICKERS FOR GIRLS OWN WEAR

'i.e., to Fit Girl of 13 to 14 Years .
Pleating tn serge rsTRODtrcED, and rsz of elastic for drawing xtp waist
and knees oe snickers. decoration of bands by interlocked loop
stitch.
Matfâtg and CosL 3i yds. ci serge, 42 in. wide, at Is. l<>i. per yd. = 65. 5d.
If vds. of elastic at lid. per yd. = 2|d. Small items, e.g., cotton, embroidery
cotton, press-studs, etc. = Ifd. Total cost =
6s. 9id. (For varieties of embroidery
cottons and siLks. see se~c- iz. General Insaruciions.)
DRILL TL'XIC AXD KXICKER5 FOR GIRL'S OV.'y \VEAR. 225
c
Fig. 163ifl). Drill Tunic for a Girl of 13-14 Years.
DRILL TUNIC AND KNICKERS FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR. 227

(a) Diagram. —Let the girls enter the diagrams [Figs. 163(fl) and 163(5) ] of
tunic and knickers in books, showing dimensions. This should be done after
measurement of the intended wearer to see whether any variation from the standard
size is necessary. It will probably be found that no variation in width will be
necessary in either tunic or knickers both are cut full, and allow of some expansion
;
in width to fit a fuller figure.

To vary the length in the case of the tunic, make any alteration in the length of
the slope below the armhole. In the case of the knickers, make the variation in
the leg portion.
{b) CuTTiXG OUT IN PAPER. —
Supply each girl with sufficient cutting-out paper
for her to obtain from it fields measuring 34 in. by 18 in. and 28 in. by 32 in. On
the first of these she will draft the pattern of the tunic portion, and on the second
the pattern of the knickers, afterwards cutting away the waste portions.
No paper pattern will be required for the waist-belt, or for the front, back, or
shoulder-straps of the tunic, as these are perfectly straight [see Figs. 164(a) and
164(6) ;.
TRIP FOR WA 1ST.
Fig. 164(a). Strip for Waist.
Front B ^ c f^
B A. N D .
B /V N D.
Fig. 164(6). Bands and Straps.
(c) —
Cutting out in Material. Supply each girl with 3|- yds. of serge 42 in.
in width. Open out the material to its full width and turn back a width of 18 in.,
so that a doubled layer of material 18 in. in width is obtained. Pin the tunic
pattern on the doubled material with the line BC [see Fig. 163(a)] placed to the fold,
and the line ABlevel with the cut edges at one end of the material. Cut round
the pattern through the double material to form the front half of the tunic. The
back half should next be cut out by means of the same pattern, and in an exactly
similar manner. This plan of cutting the front and back separately has been
adopted in order to avoid the necessity of cutting through four thicknesses of
material. An alternative plan is to cut out the pattern of the whole front or
back in paper, and then to cut out the back and front in material simultaneously.
Before cutting out the knickers, open out the material to its full width. Fold
up the bottom edge of the material for a distance of 28 in., so that the fold lies
across the weft wây, and this will produce a sufficient length of doubled material
to cut both legs of the knickers. Pin on the pattern, allowing anv excessive width
of the material to project at one side. Cut round the pattern in the double material.
Cut the waist-belt, the front and back bands, and shoulder-straps of the tunic
from the strip of material remaining. These may be measured and cut off directly
from the material.
{A ) Tunic.
—
Seams. Join the sides by means of machined French seams.
—
Hem at Foot. Place a hem about 2 in. deep round the bottom of the tunic,
making small pleats at intervals to dispose of any extra fullness caused by the
outward slope of the seams. Machine round the hem, and flatten it by means
of pressing with a hot iron over a damp cloth.
—
Pleating in readiness for Setting into Bands. Arrange the top edges of
both the front and back of the tunic into three box pleats, as shown in Fig. 165.
The difference between the two kinds of creases there indicated is fully des-
cribed under " Doll's Pleated Apron " on page 81. Tack the pleats down the
complete length of the tunic. The appearance of back and front when pleated
up is shown in Fig. 166. The tacking threads will be left in until the making of
the garment and the final pressing have been completed.
—
Armholes. Face in each armhole with a crossway piece of sateen, cut about
1 in. wide. Machine this fiat at both edges.
—
Setting into Bands. Turn under a narrow fold J in. deep completely round
the back and front bands. Set in the pleats betsveen the long selvedge edges of
these bands and machine them on, at the same time machining together the ends
of the bands.
—
Shoulder-straps. Turn in a narrow fold round each shoulder-strap about
^
^ in deep. Double each strap into halves down the selvedge way, and machine
the turned-in edges together. Secure the straps to the shoulder-ends of the front
and back bands by double row^s of maciiining.
—
Decoration. The bands and shoulder-straps mav be ornamented with inter-
locked loop stitch, as described for a crochet bag on page 222 (see Fig. 160).
Crimson or white embroiderv^ silk looks effective on a dark blue tunic.
(B) Knickers.
—
Seams of the Leg. Use machined French seams for these. If the material
is very thick, employ a flatter form of seam.
—
Joining of Legs. Cut level the ends of the seams to be joined, if this is found
to be necessary. Join the Itwo legs together all round from the front Avaist to the
back waist, taking care that the tw-o leg-seams lie exactly upon each other.
. . II
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-J*
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-t* H
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.l_l_,_,_l_l-,_l_,_l_,-l-,_l _l_, _l -I _,_,_l_l_l
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— I-I-, -I— —I— — I— I— — l-l — -I— l-l— — l-l-l —I—
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I _l _,_,_, -I — l-l— I— O
—
Waist and Knees. Machine a ^-in. hem on to the wrong side of the garment
round the waist and each knee. Elastic will be inserted in all these hems, the
exact length necessary for each portion being determined bv measurement of the
Fig. 168. Finished Appearance of Box Pleats.
intended wearer. For the insertion of this elastic, make one eyelet hole on the
under thickness of the hem of each knee, and at the waist. After inserting the
elastic, bring the two ends together. Join the elastic strongly into a ring, and
let the join pass out of sight under the hem.
8. TRAY CLOTH.
Further practice in hem-stitching and drawn-thread work. New crochet
pattern taught.
—
[N.B. -Instead of drawn-thread work, a design of the girl's own choice may
be worked with white embroidery cotton in each corner.]
Materials Employed for One Tray Cloth.—A piece of linen 22 in. by 16 in. Crochet
cotton, and embroidery cotton for drawn-thread work. (For varieties of
embroidery cotton, see section in General Instructions.)
BABY'S PERAMBULATOR COVER. 231
Materials and Cost of Three Cloths, —

22 in. of linen, 48 in. wide, at 3s. 6d. per
yd. = 2s. Ifd. One ball of crochet cotton = 2d. Small items, e.g., embroidery
cotton and sewing cotton = 2d. Total cost of three cloths = 2s. 5fd., i.e., lOd.
each.
(a) ExTRv IX Record Book. —
Let each girl enter in her book the dimensions
and the required depth of the hems.
of the tra}- cloth,
(b) Cutting Out. —
Supply each set of three girls with 22 in. of linen, 48 in.
wide, and let them divide this down the selvedge way into three portions, each
22 in. by 16 in. Each girl will then take one portion.
—
Hems. If the hems round the cloth are made IJ in. deep, a tray cloth will
be produced measuring 20 in. by 14 in. If hems of this depth are employed, the
threads for the hem-stitching should be drawn at a distance in from each edge of
3} in. Anv of the varieties of hem-stitching described under previous exercises,
(e.g., chair back, sideboard cloth, or the handkerchief case in Standard V), may be
selected for the purpose of securing the hems.
—
Drawx-thread Work. The cloth may be further ornamented by means of
drawn-thread work, an easy variety of which is fully described in dealing with
nightdress case on page 166. Different and more advanced patterns may be
obtained, if desired, from any of the special publications dealing with drawn-thread
work.
—
Crocheted Edgixg. 2 yds. 4 in. of such edging will be needed for each
cloth. A suitable varietv for the purpose is described under Exercise 11, page
203, of Knitting without • Specimens," the companion book to this work, published
by Pitman's. The length quoted above allows for sufficient fullness at the corners
to make the edging set well.
9. BABY'S PERAMBULATOR COVER.

Sewing ox of suitable applique design. Further practice in hem-stitching.
Dimensions for Cover. —Large section —37 in. by 27 in. Flap —9 in. by 23 in.
—
Choice of Materials. Linen, casement cloth, and Saxony cloth are suitable
materials to employ for the cover. Linen, however, may be found too expensive
for use in elementary schools. The material for the applique should be of case-
ment cloth, or some other suitable firm material which does not fray readily. Its
colour should contrast with that of the material employed for the cover e.g., if ;
green casement cloth is employed for the cover, the applique of ducks may be
cream in colour, the wings may be outlined in golden brown silk, and the water,
grass, and reeds in a shade of green paler than the cover itself. If the cover is
cream or white, the applique of ducks may be of a warm shade of brown, the wings
may be outlined in cream, the water worked in a soft shade of green or blue, and
the reeds in green.
Materials and Cost of One Cover (using Saxony or casement cloth). 46 in. of—
Saxony or casement cloth (27 in. to 30 in. wide) at 10|d. per yd. = Is. IJd. J yd.
of casement cloth of contrasting colour at lOfd. per yd. = 2|-d. Small items
(embroidery cotton and sewing cotton) = 2d. Total cost = Is. 6|d.
232 NEEDLEWORK WiriiOUT SI'ECIMENS.
linen at Is. lid. per yd. be employed, the cost of

If making a cover will be
about 2s. lOkl. (For varieties of Embroidery Cotton, see section in General
Instructions.)

—
Hem-stitching. Make a hem 1| in. deep completely round the large section
of the cover, and also round the flap, with the exception of one long side which
will be attached to the cover. For hems of the above depth, the threads should
be drawn at a distance in from the edge of 3] in. Any of the varieties of liem-
stitching described under previous exercises, e.g., the lamp mat, the handkercliicf
case on page 145, or the side-board cloth on page IH3, may be selected for .securing
the hems.
Fig. 167. Perambulator Cover.
—
Applique. Each girl should now, under the guidance of the teacher, prepare
sketches of suitable designs for the purpose. These should be of a nature to attract
a bab}^ e.g., such subjects as ducks, cats, and teddy bears are suitable, ^\^len
she has produced a satisfactory drawing, let her cut round the outlines of the
objects drawn, pin the paper patterns -on to the casement cloth, and cut out the
BABY'S PERAMBULATOR COVER. 233
applique in material. She may now tack the applique into position on the cover,
and fasten the different parts of it on by securing the edges to the material below
with satin stitch. For this purpose, let her use embroidery cotton of the same
shade as the applique design. (Refer to the sewing bag on page 80, Fig. 47.)
In the case of the cover of green casement cloth shown in Fig. 167, the applique
was of cream, the outline of the wings was worked in stem stitch, employing a
golden-brown shade of embroidery silk, and the water and grasses were also worked
in stem stitch, using green embroidery silk of a lighter shade than the cover.
Before working these lines for the water, reeds, and grasses, the lines indicating
the \\-ings should be lightly sketched on the ducks in lead pencil, and those repre-
senting grasses and reeds should be sketched on the darker surface with white
pastel.
—
Attachment of Flap. IMachine a very narrow hem along the long edge of
the flap which has not yet been turned in. Machine this flap on to the cover in
the position shown in Fig. 167, immediately below the hem-stitching of the top
hem, and with the two short ends lying exactly over the hem-stitching of the
long sides of the cover.
[ N. B.— A very pretty cover of the same shape and size may be made by employ-
ing white Saxony cloth, linen, or casement cloth, and substituting a design in
drawn-thread work for the applique design described above. A crocheted edging
worked by the girl herself forms a suitable finish to such a cover.]
STANDARD VII REPAIRING LESSONS.
1. Revision.
Any of the Repairing Lessons described under previous standards.
2. Darning thin places in Silk, Cloth, or Serge.

It is better to darn selvedge way, as the selvedge threads bear most of the
strain. Darn in the ordinary way, gauging the size of the stitches and the dis-
tances between the darning threads bv the eye, as it is not fea.sible to count the
threads in serge f)r in fine materials. No crossing will be required.
3. Darning tears in Silk, Cloth, or Serge.

The most effective way of rendering such a
darn invisible is to work it with ravellings of the
material of which the garment is made.
As a rule, proceed in the recognised manner
for darning a hedge-tear. This is usually worked
on the wrong side of the material, though in lined
dress skirts, etc., it is often better and more
convenient to darn on the right side.
In the case of a tear in firm material which
has become but little frayed, the tear may be
neatly and almost invisibly drawn together b\-
means of " fish-bone " stitch. The method of
doing this is shown in Fig. 168. This method is
less strong than darning, and should be used in Fig. 168. Fish-bone Stitch.
portions of garments incurring little strain.
4. Darning small holes in Dresses by means of placing a piece of the Same Material
under the Hole, and Darning over it with Ravellings of the material.
5. Patching Cloth or Serge Garments.

(a) When —
the Cloth is firm, and not likely to Fray. -In this case, a grafted
patch the best. Proceed as follows. First cut away the worn portion, keeping
is
the edges of the hole in straight lines running at right angles. Cut a piece of
cloth to fit the hole exactly. Tack a piece of stiff paper completely over the hole
on the right side of the garment. Turn the garment on to the wrong side, insert
the patch into the hole, and tack it down on to the paper. Join the edges of the
patch to the edges of the hole by fish-bone stitch (s3e Fig. 169). backwards Dam
and forwards over the joined edge, letting the darning stitches extend inwards
for I in. on to the patch, and outwards for the same distance on to the garment.
The darning should be done with raveUings of the material.
(6) When the Cloth or Serge is thinner, and inclined to Fray. Treat —
1 For method of conducting the lessons, see General Instructions.
234
STANDARD VII KEP AIRING LESSONS. 235
in the same way as for a print patch, putting the patch on the right side. If pre-
ferred, the turnings may be opened out fiat on the wrong side, the turnings at the
corners being cut away to prevent bulkiness.
.nnnnnnp!!;
. / ubliliuuviiip
I
\
N
V
^^w^\> >>>>>M
yxvvvvvvvvvv>\
Fig. 169. Method of Patching a Cloth Garment or a Table-cloth.

(c) A very flat method of putting on a dress patch by hand-stitching is des-
cribed on page 126 of Miss E. R. Hambridge's Blackboard Diagram Drawing for
Teachers of Needlecraft (Pitman).
6. Mending Kid Gloves.

For mending of gloves employ a proper glove needle, which is triangular in
the shank. For mending a tear or very small hole in a glove, work button-hole
stitch round the edges of the tear or hole. Catch together the knots forming the
edge of the button-hole stitches by means of oversewing. Employ silk for mending
which matches the glove in colour.
If the hole is too large to be filled up by this method, a piece of kid may be
put under it, and the edge of the hole button-holed down on to it.
When the seam of a machined glove has come undone, it may be stitched up
again so as to imitate the original machining stitches.
Another plan for drawing together a rent or seam which has come undone is
the application of " fish-bone " stitch, as described under " hedge-tear " darn
above.
7. Darning and Mending Table Linen.

(a) A Thin Place caused by Wear. —
Darn this along the selvedge way in
the ordinary manner, taking care that regular numbers of the threads are taken
up and left down. The size of these stitches can be gauged by the eye without
any counting of loops. Leave very short loops. Employ flax thread for the
darning of all table linen.
(6) A Cross or Diagonal Cut. —
The correct way of darning a cross-cut is
somewhat complicated. The method of arranging and working the darn is fully
described in Chapter XXXIX of Miss Amy K. Smith's Needlework for Studctil

Teachers (Pitman).
(c) A Hole —
caused by Wear. A simple metliod of repairing a iiole in tabk-
linen by means of a patch set on in the manner of an ordinary calico patch. A
is
more finished and less bulky way is by means of a grafted patch. In this case,
first cut away the worn portion, keeping the edges of the hole in straight lines
running at right angles. Cut a piece of damask exactly to fit the hole, and with
the pattern matching the portion around the Iiole as nearly as possible. Tack a
piece of stiff paper completely over the hole on the right side of the cloth. Turn
the cloth on to the wrong side, insert the patch in the hole, and tack it down on
to the paper. Join the edges of the patch to the edges around the hole by means
of fish-bone stitch (see Fig. 169, under '-Cloth Patch"). Darn backwards and for-
wards over the joined edge, letting the darning stitches extend inwards for \ in.
on to the patch, and outwards for the same distance on to the cloth.
8. Renovating the bottom of a Worn Skirt.

When the skirt has become worn (jr trayed at the foot, it may be renovated by
one of the three following methods, each of which, however, will have the effect
of slightly decreasing the length of the skirt.
{a) When
the turned-usder hem is in fairly good repair, and the edge
—
ONLY has become WORN. The alteration will be made in this case without undoing
the stitching-up of the hem. Cut through the worn fold right round the bottom
edge of the skirt. Turn under and tack a fold J in. in depth (or of sufficient depth
to ensure that all the worn part is turned up out of sight) along the outer of these
cut edges. Next turn in and tack a fold J in. deep along the underneath cut edge,
that is, the edge of the hem itself. The turned-in edge of the hem will now face
the turned-in edge of the foot of the skirt. The folded edge of the skirt will thus
project about J in. below the folded edge of the hem. Tack the edge of the hem
into position on to the fold of the skirt, and hem it lightly down, not letting the
stitches show through to the right side of the skirt. The fold will thus be just
out of sight on the under side of the skirt. Press the foot of the skirt with a hot
iron over a damp cloth.
(6) When
the turned-under hem has become worn aw'ay in parts, and
IS beyond repair. —
This frequently happens when the hem is rather long, and
has become rubbed against the boots.
Unpick the hem. Completely remove the inner turned-up portion of the hem
by cutting along the fold that originally formed the bottom edge of the skirt.
Cut a length of material on the cross of the same depth as the previous hem. Place
the lower edge of the right side of the fold flat down on to the bottom edge of the
skirt. Machine together the edges of the crossway piece and of the skirt. Cut
the crossway piece to the exact length required, and join the two ends. Turn
under the crossway strip so that the join is just out of sight on the wrong side of
the skirt. Turn in a J-in. fold along the upper edge of the crossway piece, and
tack it down on to the skirt, disposing of any surplus fullness by means of small
pleats. Secure the crossway piece into position by means of one or two rows of
machining.
(c) Another method applicable when the turned-under hem is in fairly
good repair. —Unpick the hem. Repair any damage to the worn edge by darning
on the wrong side with ravellings of material. Press out the fold under a damp
cloth. This will have the effect of smoothing out the darns and rendering them
STANDARD VII REPAIRING LESSONS. 237
as inconspicuous as possible. Turn the hem up afresh along a line a little above
the original fold, thus making the skirt slightly shorter. Machine the hem down,
and again press on the wrong side.
9. Turning of Skirts.
Completely unpick all parts of a skirt to be turned. Darn any thin places
with ravellings of the material, and remove any soils and grease-spots by sponging.
Press out the parts under a damp cloth to remove all folds and creases. Retack
the seams, reversing the side of each gore, and taking the greatest care to fit the
right seams together. Note that if the skirt consists of a front, back, and two
side gores, as in the girl's skirt described on page 213, the gore originally at the
right side of the front will be placed on the left, and vice versa. Machine the seams,
and arrange the hem at the foot, the placket, and the band as before.
10. Renovating and Adapting of Worn Garments of good material sent to the
School.
The following are examples of this type of work—
(a) Lengthening of petticoat by letting out tucks, or by means of a false hem
or frill stitched on.
{b) Replacing or mending torn pockets.
(c) Adapting of worn dress-skirts, of cotton or woollen material, for use as
petticoats.
(d) Using the best portions of over-skirts, cloaks, or mantles, for making cloth
knickers for children.
(e) Using the best portions of similar garments for making little boys' tunic
suits or knickers.
(/) Replacing the whole or the lower halves of the sleeves of night-dresses and
shirts, and the lower portions of the legs of knickers, combinations, etc. Renewing
the whole top of a chemise which has become very badly worn under the arms.
Replacing the whole of the front breadth of a skirt. Renewing the collars and
bands of various garments.
11. Turning Sheets Top to Bottom, and Sides to Middle, when the centre part has
become worn.
12. Swiss Darning.
This is a method of strengthening a thin place in woven material by covering
the loops of the original knitting with stitches which constitute an exact facsimile
of the web over which they are worked. As this is a rather difficult process,
it should be taught to the most advanced pupils only. Full descriptions of the
method of carrying out Swiss darning are given in Miss Smith's Needlework for
Student Teachers, and Miss Chamberlain's Practical Plain Needlework, published
by Sir I. Pitman & Sons.
13. Various methods of Millinery Renovation, and of Lining and Trimming Hats.
The lessons on this should include instruction on the washing and renovating
of straw and felt hats, and the careful washing and ironing of ribbon, lace, etc.,
for trimmings. Girls should be taught to preserve odd pieces of suitable silk,
sateen, or muslin, for renewing soiled or worn hat-linings.
Printed by Sir Isaac Pitman & Sons, Ltd., Bath, England.

R— (8i5C^
Claydon Ellen P./Needlework withou
3 1962 00079 0091

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Blouse showing Finished Appearance and Decoration with

OF " HANDWORK AND NEEDLEWORK " AND JOINT AUTHOR

(7) The educational aspect of Needlework in its connection with Arithmetic

the guiding principles underlying the arrangement of the whole scheme.

EMBROIDERY SILKS AND COTTONS OF BRITISH MANUFACTURE

LEADING TYPES OF EMBROIDERY THREADS

CASEMENT CURTAINS FOR DOLL's HOUSE .

14. SECOND SHEET FOR DOLL's BED

2. child's feeder ......

7. FANCY MAT FOR L.\MP OR FERN-POT . 83

FULL COOKING OR SEWING SLEEVES

7. HEM-STITCHED LAMP MAT 140

2. girl's COOKERY OR LAUNDRY APRON 154

11. JAP.\NESE COSTUME FOR CHILDREN'S PLAYS 186

1. NIGHTDRESS FOR GIRL's OWN WEAR 198

teaching of Needlework suggests, provide a choice of garments. Each girl may

Practical Arithmetic Lessons.

16 NEEDLEWORK WIl HOLT SPECIMENS.

EMBROIDERY SILKS AND COTTONS OF BRITISH MANUFACTURE.

LEADING TYPES OF EMBROIDERY THREADS.

(2) " Twisted " Crewel " Silk.

County IJd. per skein, or This is a twisted or crewel

Messrs. Wm. '

Clark's Stran- Id. per skein. An embroidery cotton of the

Ardern's "Grove 2d. per ball, or This is a mercerised thread of the

B a g 1 e y & 2d. per ball, or This is similar in make and thick-

Lustrine 2d. per ball. This class of embroidery thread is

Prisma." described under (1), Section C

20 XEKDLEWDRK WITHOUT SPECIMENS.

Maker or Name. Price. Description.

Messrs. J. May- '

Flannel E ni - Id. per skein, but A twisted silk, made in white

Filoselle. Id. per skein, but A very cheap mercerised Filoselle.

Fibreena. Id. per skein. This is similar in make to Pearsall's

Filoselle. H-d. per skein, or A Filoselle of excellent quality.

Maker or Price. Description.

London, W. File Floss. Do. do. A description of this tj-pe of silk

Lister & Co., '

etc., to O, the " Rope

DOLL'S BEDSTEAD MADE OF CARDBOARD.

Fig. 1(a). Base of Doll's Bedstead made of Cardboard.

Fig. l{b). Head of Doll's Bedstead made of Cardboard.

turned down. Secure together the corners AD, DE ; EG, GJ MH,

Fig. l{c). Foot of Doll's Bedstead made of Cardboard.

Fig. 2. Completed Doll's Bedstead.

Children of 7 to 8 Years of Age.

I. SMALL NEEDLEBOOK FOR CHILD'S OWN USE.

Quantity and Cost of Materials for Class of 50. —

Drafting and Cutting Out.

Fig. 3(a). Small Needlebook for Fig. 3(6). Small Needlebook,

(b) Cutting out in Paper. —

26 NEEDLEWORK WlTHori SI'I'CIMEXS.

Instructions for Makings

2. QUILT FOR DOLL'S BED.

paper rather larger than the actual size re-

Fig. 4{b). Completed Quilt for Doll's Bed.

Instructions for Making.