Printing

Printing is the process of applying color to fabric in definite patterns or designs to decorate them.
Resist printing:
In resist printing, the fabric is first printed in a design with a chemical that resists dye. The fabric
is then dyed. The resist chemistry will leave the fabric white or a lighter version of the base color
in the printed areas. Resist printing can be performed on cotton fabrics that will subsequently be
dyed with reactive, vat or naphthol dyes.
The most common resists can be used are wax, some type of paste made from starch or mud, or a
mechanical resist that manipulates the cloth such as tying or stitching.
History:
Resist dyeing has been very widely used in Asia, Africa, and Europe since ancient times. The
earliest extant pieces of resist-dyed fabric were found in Egypt, dating to the 4th century AD.
Cloths used for mummy wrappings were sometimes coated with wax, scratched with a sharp
stylus, and dyed with a mixture of blood and ashes. After dyeing, the cloth was washed in hot
water to remove the wax.
In Asia, this technique was practiced in China during the Tang dynasty (618–907 AD)
India and Japan in the Nara period (645–794 AD).
In Africa, it was originally practiced by the Yoruba people in Nigeria.
Types:
The best-known types of resist printing today include
• Batik
• tie-dye (shibori)
• ikat
Batik:
The word batik comes from Javanese word ‘’amba’’ which means ‘’to write’’ and ‘’titik ‘’which
means dot.
Batik is an Indonesian technique of wax-resist dyeing applied to the whole cloth. This technique
originated from the island of Java, Indonesia. Batik is made either by drawing dots and lines of
the resist with a spouted tool called a canting, or by printing the resist with a copper stamp called
a cap and and sometimes wax are applied with a brush. The applied wax resists dyes and
therefore allows the artisan to colour selectively by soaking the cloth in one colour, removing the
wax with boiling water, and repeating if multiple colours are desired.
History of batik:
Evidence of early examples of batik have been found in the Far East, Middle East, Central Asia
and India from over 2000 years ago. It is conceivable that these areas developed independently,
without the influence from trade or cultural exchanges.
Batik was practised in China as early as the Sui Dynasty (AD 581-618). These were silk batiks
and these have also been discovered in Nara, Japan in the form of screens and ascribed to the
Nara period (AD 710-794). It is probable that these were made by Chinese artists. They are
decorated with trees, animals, flute players, hunting scenes and stylized mountains.
No evidence of very old cotton batiks have been found in India but frescoes in the Ajunta caves
depict head wraps and garments which could well have been batiks. In Java and Bali temple
ruins contain figures whose garments are patterned in a manner suggestive of batik.
In Egypt linen and occasionally woollen fabrics have been excavated bearing white patterns on a
blue ground and are the oldest known and date from the 5th century A.D. They were made in
Egypt.
In central Africa resist dyeing using cassava and rice paste has existed for centuries in the
Yoruba tribe of Southern Nigeria and Senegal.
Process of batik:
Wax is used as a mean of color blocking in the coloring process. Every part of the fabric that
remains untouched by a certain color has to be covered with wax. There are also several sub-
processes like preparing the cloth, tracing the designs, stretching the cloth on the frame, waxing
the area of the cloth that does not need dyeing, preparing the dye, dipping the cloth in dye,
boiling the cloth to remove wax and washing the cloth in soap.

The more colors a batik fabric has, the more times it has been through the process of applying
wax, dyeing, and drying, then removing the wax. The process has to happen in a precise order
that will produce the pattern or figures that are desired. Additionally, the order of which colors to
apply also has to be followed.
BATIK PRODUCTION TECHNIQUES
It can generally be divided into 3 types:
a) Canting (t-janting or tulis) hand drawn batik:
Hand drawn batik is a traditional method of batik printing. It involves outlining the designs using
a canting, a metal pen tool filled with hot wax. Colors are then painted on the cloth and the
process of the waxing, dyeing and boiling will be followed till the desired result is obtained. The
process can take up to weeks depending on the intricacy of the pattern, which is why hand
painted batik is so highly valued.
b) Cap (block printing)
It involves the application of wax directly onto the cloth using soldered tin or copper
strips block impressed with certain designs. The block, or “chop”, is placed into hot wax and
then hand stamped onto the fabric. When the wax is dry the fabric is dyed. Then the wax is
removed and the pattern is visible.
c) Silk screening (screen printing)
Different screens are used according to the colors and patterns desired. The wax is applied onto
the cloth using these screens. This printing method is usually used in the mass production of
batik for commercial use.
Advantages and dis advantages:
The advantages of batik printing include that it is a unique and beautiful art form that allows for intricate
and detailed patterns. It is also a sustainable and eco-friendly process, as it uses natural dyes and can be
done by hand.
The dis advantages include that it can be time consuming and requires a lot of skills to create intricate
patterns. It can also be expensive, as high quality materials and dyes are needed. Additionally it can be
difficult to replicate the exact same pattern multiple times, which can make it challenging for mass
production.
SHIBORI :
Shibori is a Japanese Dyeing technique that involves folding, twisting or bunching fabric and then
binding it before dying it. The binding prevent the dye from reaching certain areas of the fabric resulting
in a pattern. Shibori can be done with a variety of natural and synthetic dyes and the patterns can range
from simple intricate. Shibori is often used to create unique and beautiful textiles, including clothing
scarves, and home décor.
History of shibori:
Shibori Dyeing has a long history in Japan dating back to the 8th century. The word Shibori comes from
the Japanese word ‘’ shiboru’’ which means to wring, squeeze or press. The technique was originally used
to decorate and embellished clothing and was often used by the lower classes who could not afford
expensive fabrics.
Over the time Shibori became more sophisticated, and Different techniques were developed to create
different patterns. In the EDO period 1603-1868 Shibori became a popular art form and was used to
decorate everything from kimonos to tapestries.
During the meiji period 1868 to 1912 Shibori became popular in Europe and America. Western designer
were inspired by the intricate patterns and unique textures of Shibori and began incorporating the
technique into their own designs.
Today. Shibori remains an important part of Japanese culture, and is still used to create beautiful and
unique textiles.

Difference between tie-dye and shibori:

Tie and Dye involves folding twisting or crumpling fabric and then tying it with string or rubber bands to
create a pattern. Shibori involves folding twisting or bunching fabric and then binding it with string,
thread or clamps before dying. The binding prevent the dye from reaching certain areas of the fabric
creating a patterns. Shibori patterns are often more subtle and intricate than tie-dye patterns, and they can
include a wide variety of Shapes and Designs. Shibori is also typically done with natural dyes, while tie
and dye often uses synthetic dyes.
Process of shibori dyeing:
1. Prepare the fabric: Wash and dry the fabric to remove any sizing or dirt that might interfere
with the dyeing process.
2. Fold or twist the fabric: fold twist or bunch the fabric into the desired shape you can use a
variety of techniques such as folding the fabric in an accordion pattern or twisting it into a spiral.
3. Bind the fabric: Use string thread or clamps to bind the fabric. The binding will prevent the dye
from reaching certain areas of the fabric creating a pattern. You can bind the fabric in a variety of
ways to create different patterns
4. Prepare the dye: Mix the dye according to the manufacturer's instructions you can use a variety
of natural and synthetic dyes depending on the desired colour and effect.
5. Dye the fabric: Immerse the fabric in the dye, making sure that all of the exposed areas are
covered you can leave the fabric in the dye for as long as you like depending on the desired
colour intensity.
6. Rinse the fabric: Remove the fabric from the dye and bring it thoroughly in cold water to
remove any excess dye.
7. Remove the bindings: Carefully remove the bindings from the fabric the areas that were bound
will be lighter in colour than the rest of the fabric.
8. Dry the fabric: Hang the fabric to dry or tumble dry it on low heat that it once the fabric is dry
it's ready to use.
Types of shibori dye:
There are many different types of shibori dyeing techniques, each with its own unique pattern.
Some of the most common types of shibori include:

1. Kanoko Shibori: Also known as "tie-dye," this technique involves tying small knots in the fabric
before dyeing it.
2. Miura Shibori: This technique involves folding the fabric like an accordion and then binding it with
thread before dyeing it.
3. Kumo Shibori: This technique involves pleating the fabric and then binding it with thread to create a
spider-web-like pattern.
4. Arashi Shibori: This technique involves wrapping the fabric around a pole and then scrunching it
down before dyeing it, creating a diagonal, storm-like pattern.
5. Nui Shibori: This technique involves stitching the fabric before dyeing it, creating a more precise
pattern.
6. Itajime Shibori: This technique involves folding the fabric and then clamping it with wooden blocks
before dyeing it, creating a geometric pattern.
These are just a few examples of the many different types of shibori dyeing techniques. Each technique
can be used to create a unique and beautiful pattern.
Advantages and disadvantages of shibori dyeing:
Advantages of Shibori dyeing include

 unique and beautiful pattern: Shibori dyeing can create intricate and beautiful patterns that are
different every time
 Versatile: Shibori can be done on a variety of fabrics from cotton to Silk to linen.
 Eco-friendly: Shibori can be done with natural dyes which are better for the environment than
synthetic dyes.
Disadavntages of shibori dyeing include

 time consuming: shibori dyeing can be a time consuming process, especially if you want to
create intricate patterns.
 Messy: dyeing can be messy process, and it’s important to take precautions to protect your work
area and clothing.
 Inconsistent result: because shibori is a hand dyeing technique, the result can be inconsistent. It
can be difficult to achieve the exact same pattern twice.