Bulletin - L'ECOLE, School of Jewelry Arts - Sept-Dec. 2021

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The

Bulletin

N°4
September —
December
2021
A Word From Our President

Dear Students, Dear Friends,

We are pleased to present our new Simultaneously, in Hong Kong,


program which spotlights the subject the second permanent campus
of jewelry design. of L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts
is hosting the exhibition “Lacloche
Seldom studied and published, even Jewelers” from November 22nd
more rarely exhibited, jewelry design to April 6th. This exhibition, which
remains practically unknown to the was first presented in Paris in Fall 2019,
general public. Nevertheless, jewelry sheds light on the Maison Lacloche,
design plays an essential role, serving which was one of Paris’ celebrated
as the reference point for all those Maisons from the Belle Époque period
involved in the creation of a jewel. to the 1960s. Through jewelry,
clocks and vanity cases—the Lacloche
After having devoted a research specialty—as well as archival
project to this subject, L’ÉCOLE, documents, the retrospective
School of Jewelry Arts is pleased illustrates various trends, including
to announce, not only the creation the naturalism of Art Nouveau, and
of a new course on this topic, but also the penchant for the Far East during
the organization of an exhibition the Roaring Twenties, the modernism
in Paris, “Designing Jewels”, of Art Deco, and the charmingly
from October 14th 2021 to February 14th seductive creations of the 1950s.
2022, as well as the publication
of a book co-published with Norma. In addition, we will continue our
program of free online Conversations
open to all. From September to
December, 6 themes will be broadcast
live from our exhibitions in Paris and
Hong Kong, from the GemGenève fair
or from the Florae exhibition organized
by Van Cleef & Arpels. From the secret
language of flowers to Art Deco,
from the mysteries of jewelry design
to the art of precious boxes, our
talks will embark you on a journey
in the fascinating world of jewelry,
from the comfort of your home.

Enjoy your discovery and


see you soon at L’ÉCOLE, in Paris,
in Hong Kong or online!

Cover image:
Van Cleef & Arpels
Cascade Earring Design
Circa 1955 Marie Vallanet-Delhom
Van Cleef & Arpels Archives President of L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts
Table of Contents

COURSES,
WORKSHOPS
& TALKS
4 New Course:
Once Upon A Time There Was Jewelry Design
6 A Class in Images:
From Design to Mock-up
8 A Class in Images:
The Gouaché in High Jewelry 1 – The Light
10 A Class in Images:
The Gouaché in High Jewelry 2 – The Color
12 Month by Month, from September to December
22 The Complete Courses and Workshops List

EXHIBITION
28 Designing Jewels

ONLINE
32 Live Online Conversations Program

IN HONG KONG
35 “Lacloche Jewelers” Exhibition

PORTRAITS
38 Portrait of a Teacher: Marina Fulchiron, Jewelry Designer
41 Portrait of a Student: Zhao, Landscape Designer

Course From Design to Mock-up


New Course

ONCE UPON A TIME


THERE WAS
JEWELRY DESIGN AT THE ORIGIN OF THE JEWEL:
DESIGN, HISTORY, EVOLUTION AND TECHNIQUE

The first step in of the long process of creating a piece of jewelry, the jewelry
design is an ancient practice that dates back to the Renaissance. Rendered in
pencil, pen, or brush on various surfaces, such as paper, card, parchment, or tra-
cing paper, it gives rise to the final jewelry piece. This course is the fruit of an
important research project carried out over the period of one year by L’ÉCOLE,
School of Jewelry Arts. The research was done in archives, libraries, museums, Van Cleef & Arpels
Design of a necklace and its wearer
and inside the patrimonial collections of several great jewelry Maisons. circa 1920
Van Cleef & Arpels Archives
The unique and original content is revealed to you by a jewelry art historian © Van Cleef & Arpels SA
and a designer.

During this course, you will observe how ’’a simple drawing’’ gives life to a jewelry
creation. Who are the authors of jewelry drawings, the “designers”? What execu-
tion techniques do they rely upon? What are the uses of jewelry drawings over
time? In three sections, you will grasp the importance of beauty in jewelry design,
from the 15th century to today. The jewelry art history teacher will unveil works
that are as beautiful as they are remarkable.

The designer will give a contemporary point of view, relying upon her experience
as a designer and gouacheuse in several Maisons on the Place Vendôme. She will
show her tools and one of her sketchbooks.
You will then have the opportunity to handle the different types of materials
used over the centuries and to leaf through several illustrated catalogues of
gouachés, recently published by the Maisons in order to present their High
Jewelry collections.

René Lalique (1860-1945)


Design of “Peacock” tiara
circa 1900
Practical information Number of participants: Dates and registration: Van Cleef & Arpels
12 people maximum Jewelry Culture Fund
Duration: 4 hours
Professors: a jewelry art
historian and a designer
Van Cleef & Arpels
Language: French or
Design for a necklace
English circa 1920
Price: 200 € / participant Van Cleef & Arpels Archives
© Van Cleef & Arpels SA

4 The Bulletin of L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts 5 September – December 2021


A Class in Images

FROM DESIGN
TO MOCK-UP EXPLORE THE FIRST STEPS
1 2

IN CREATING A JEWEL

1 4 7
Once the design Sitting at the You will cut a butterfly
is finished, the process workbench in our out of metal, shape it
of creating a jewel Jewelry Workshop, and decorate it
begins with a “gouaché” you will then experience with rhinestones.
painted design, the mock-up maker’s
3 4
depicting its color, gestures while creating 8
shape, and volume in a pewter mock-up. You will then decorate
actual size. it with rhinestones,
5 which prefigure the
2 The work of location of the diamonds
You will understand the the mock-up maker for the final piece.
three stages which allow consists of interpreting
a jewel to be represented the gouaché to offer 9
in two dimensions: a three-dimensional At the end, you will leave
the drawing, the tracing, interpretation with the gouaché and
and the gouaché. of the final jewel. the pewter mock-up
Mock-ups are made made during the course!
3 of pewter, a metal 5 6
You will also be able that is more malleable
to paint the facets and therefore easier
of a diamond. to work than gold.

6
From a pewter plate,
you will be invited to
make your own mock-up
of a butterfly jewel.

Practical information Nomber of participants: Dates and registration:


12 people maximum
Duration: 4 hours
Professors: a designer,
a mock-up maker, 7
and an expert teacher
in jewelry savoir-faire
Language: French or
English
Price: 200€ / participant

6 The Bulletin of L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts 7 September – December 2021


A Class in Images

THE GOUACHÉ
IN HIGH
JEWELRY 1 –
THE LIGHT DEPICTING LIGHT ON A GOUACHÉ PAINTING,
THE FIRST STAGE IN CREATING
A HIGH JEWELRY PIECE

1 2
A “gouaché” is the first At L’ÉCOLE, After a presentation of
step in the creation School of Jewelry Arts, the gouaché technique,
of a High Jewelry piece: two classes are devoted you will experience
a painted design that to this technique the designer’s gestures 1 2
will act as a guide for all of High Jewelry design: while painting a white
the craftsmen involved “The Gouaché gold piece in the shape
— mock-up makers, in High Jewelry 1: of a bow.
jewelers, gemologists The Light”
and stone setters. and “The Gouaché 3
in High Jewelry 2: Using three different
A highly skilled The Color”. colors, you will learn how
technique, it consists to position light and
of depicting shadow, and then depict
three-dimensional them using gouaché.
volumes: although the
painted design is flat, 4
the jewel is a three- You will understand
dimensional object. the creative process
and become familiar
with this specific
4
High Jewelry
design technique.

Practical information Nomber of participants: Dates and registration:


6 people maximum
Duration: 3 hours
Professors:
a jewelry designer and
a visual artist
Language: French or
English
Price: 200€ / participant

8 The Bulletin of L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts 9 September – December 2021


A Class in Images

THE GOUACHÉ
IN HIGH
JEWELRY 2 – 1

THE COLOR DEPICTING COLOR ON A GOUACHÉ SKETCH,


THE FIRST STAGE IN CREATING
A HIGH JEWELRY PIECE

1 2 4
In High Jewelry, After this first At the end of the class,
creations are adorned observation exercise, you will take home
with gems having you will experience your gouaché painting
a multitude of colors. the designer’s gestures as a souvenir. 2a 2b
For a better while painting
understanding of both a cabochon
the diversity of possible and a faceted stone.
shades, you will be
invited to identify the 3
color of different stones You will discover how
on a chromatic circle. color, combined with
the depiction of light,
enables the designer
to reproduce both
the color and shape
of stones until they
appear to come to life.
3

Practical information Nomber of participants: Dates and registration:


6 people maximum
Duration: 3 hours
Professors :
a jewelry designer and
a visual artist
Language: French or
English
Price: 200€ / participant

10 The Bulletin of L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts 11 September – December 2021


Schedule September — December 2021

COURSES, 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm


La fascination
du diamant 1 :
9:00 am — 11:00 am
Insolites bijoux Art
nouveau
9:00 am — 1:00 pm
L’art lapidaire 2 —
Initiation : taille d’une

WORKSHOPS
histoire et légendes — pierre de couleur
9:00 am — 1:00 pm —
Monday 20th La fascination du diamant 9:00 am — 1:00 pm

& TALKS
10:00 am — 12:30 pm 2 : science et gemmologie Recognize the Gemstones
The Engagement Ring : — —
A Love Story 9:00 am — 1:00 pm 2:30 pm — 5:00 pm
— Accéder à la création Un tour du monde du bijou
2:30 pm — 4:30 pm de Van Cleef & Arpels —
The Diamond’s Magic : — 2:30 pm — 5:30 pm
Symbols & Legends 2:30 pm — 4:30 pm The Gouaché in High
September — Introduction to Setting Jewelry 2 — The Color
2:30 pm — 4:30 pm — —
Trying Out the Jeweler’s 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm
The titles of courses, Tuesday 14th Thursday 16th Techniques Une histoire de la Wednesday 29th
workshops and talks 9:00 am — 1:00 pm 9:00 am — 1:00 pm — joaillerie, de Louis XIV 2:00 pm — 4:00 pm
are indicated in the language Du bijou français Du dessin à la maquette 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm à l’Art déco Workshop for ages
in which they will be given, à la laque japonaise — Or et Bijoux, — 6 to 8
in French or in English.
— 9:00 am — 1:00 pm de l’Antiquité aux princes 7:00 pm — 8:00 pm Couronnes et épées
This program might 9:00 am — 1:00 pm Il était une fois de la Renaissance Live Online Conversation —
change depending Le rubis, pierre ardente le dessin joaillier Le langage secret des fleurs 2:30 pm — 4:30 pm
on the health situation. et envoûtante — Tuesday 21st Workshop for ages
— 9:00 am — 1:00 pm 9:00 am — 11:00 am Thursday 23rd  12 to 16
9:00 am — 1:00 pm Reconnaître les pierres The Diamond: A 9:00 am — 12:00 pm Découvrir le monde
Courses
Live Online Conversations Once Upon A Time — Gemological Exception Le Gouaché en Haute des pierres
Workshops for young people There Was 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm — Joaillerie 1 – La lumière —
Jewelry Design Du projet en cire 9 :00 am — 1 :00 pm — 2:30 pm — 4:30 pm
— aux techniques de serti Le bijou et les émaux 9:00 am — 1:00 pm Workshop for ages
2:30 pm — 6:30 pm — grand feu Discover the Gemstones 12 to 16
Gold and Jewelry, 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm — — La maquette, première
from Antiquity to the Entrer dans l’univers 9:00 am — 1:00 pm 9:00 am — 1:00 pm vision d’un bijou
Renaissance Princes de Van Cleef & Arpels The Lapidary’s Art 1 – L’art lapidaire 1 – en volume
— Discovery: History Découverte : histoire —
5:00 pm — 7:30 pm Friday 17th and Techniques & gestes
Premiers pas en joaillerie 9:00 am — 1:00 pm — —
Amulettes et symboles 2:30 pm — 5:00 pm 10:00 am — 11:00 am
Wednesday 15th précieux Around the World Live Online Conversation
Course Trying your hand 9:00 am — 11:00 am — in Jewelry The Secret Language
at Japanese Urushi Lacquer — of Flowers
Trying your hand at 9:00 am — 1:00 pm
Japanese Urushi Lacque Ruby, a Fiery 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm —
— and Bewitching Stone A History of Jewelry, from 2:30 pm — 5:30 pm
Monday 13th 9:00 am — 1:00 pm — Louis XIV to Art Deco Le gouaché en Haute
10:00 am — 12:30 pm Découvrir les pierres 9:00 am — 1:00 pm — Joaillerie 2 – La couleur
Un amour de bijou : — Having access to 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm —
la bague de fiançailles 9:00 am — 1:00 pm Van Cleef & Arpels Jewelry and « Grand Feu » 7:00 pm — 8:00 pm
— Art Nouveau : creations Enameling Live Online Conversation
2:30 pm — 5:00 pm Astonishing Jewels – — The Secret Language
First Steps into Jewelry From School to Museum 2 :30 pm — 4 :30 pm Wednesday 22nd of Flowers
— — Pratique des techniques —
2:30 pm — 6:30 pm 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm joaillières Study Day: « Jeunes Friday 24th
Entering the Amulets and — chercheurs », 9:00 am — 12:00 pm
Van Cleef & Arpels Precious Symbols at the Paris Museum The Gouaché in High
Universe — of Decorative Arts Jewelry 1 — The Light Course From the Wax Project
— — — to The SettingTechniques

12 The Bulletin of L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts 13 September – December 2021


Schedule September — December 2021

October
Monday 11th 9:00 am — 1:00 pm 2:30 pm — 4:30 pm Thursday 21st 7:00 pm — 8:00 pm
10:00 am — 12:30 pm  From French Jewels Le Diamant : Une 9:00 am — 11:00 am Live Online Conversation
Un amour de bijou : to Japanese Lacquer exception gemmologique Introduction to Gemology The Four Seasons
la bague de fiançailles — — — of the Jewelry Garden
— 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm 9:00 am — 12:00 pm
2:30 pm — 5:00 pm Du dessin à la maquette Or et Bijoux, Le gouaché en Haute Friday 22nd
First Steps into Jewelry — de l’Antiquité aux princes Joaillerie 1 – La lumière 9:00 am — 12:00 pm
— 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm de la Renaissance — The Gouaché
2:30 pm — 6:30 pm  Entering the 9:00 am — 1:00 pm in High Jewelry 1
Entrer dans l’univers Van Cleef & Arpels Tuesday 19th L’art lapidaire 1 – The Light
de Van Cleef & Arpel Universe 9:00 am — 1:00 pm Découverte : histoire —
— Fascinating Diamonds 2: & gestes 9:00 am — 1:00 pm
Tuesday 12th 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm Science and Gemology — L’art lapidaire 2 –
9:00 am — 11:00 am Il était une fois — 10:00 am — 11:00 am Initiation : taille d’une
Pratique de la laque le dessin joaillier 9:00 am — 1:00 pm Live Online Conversation pierre de couleur
japonaise Urushi Le bijou et les émaux The Four Seasons —
— Friday 15th grand feu of the Jewelry Garden 9:00 am — 1:00 pm
9:00 am — 1:00 pm 9:00 am — 1:00 pm — — Recognize the Gemstones
Le rubis, pierre ardente Amulettes et symboles 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm Course Introduction to Gemology 2:30 pm — 4:30 pm —
et envoûtante précieux The Lapidary’s Art 2 – Initiation au sertissage 2:30 pm — 5:00 pm
— — Initiation: — Un tour du monde
9:00 am — 1:00 pm 9:00 am — 1:00 pm Cutting a Colored Stone 2:00 pm — 4:00 pm 2:30 pm — 5:30 pm du bijou
Fascinating Diamonds 1: Ruby, a Fiery — Workshop for ages Le gouaché en Haute —
History and Legends and Bewitching Stone 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm 9 to 11 Joaillerie 2 – La couleur 2:30 pm — 5:30 pm
— — A History of Jewelry, from Crée ta pendule — The Gouaché
2:30 pm — 4:30 pm 9:00 am — 1:00 pm Louis XIV to Art Deco précieuse 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm in High Jewelry 2
Discover the technique Having access to — — Once Upon A Time There The Color
of the Mock-up in Jewelry Van Cleef & Arpels 2:30 pm — 5:00 pm 3:00 pm — 5:00 pm Was Jewelry Design —
— creations Around the World Workshop for ages —
2:30 pm — 6:30 pm — in Jewelry 12 to 16
Gold and Jewelry, 2:30 pm — 4:30 pm — Découvrir le monde
from Antiquity to the La Magie du Diamant  : 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm des pierres
Renaissance Princes Symboles & Légendes Jewelry and « Grand Feu » —
— — Enameling 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm
5:00 am — 7:30 pm 2:30 pm — 4:30 pm From the Wax Project
Premiers pas en joaillerie Pratique des techniques Wednesday 20th to the Setting Techniques
joaillières 9:00 am — 1:00 pm —
Wednesday 13th Insolites bijoux Art 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm
9:00 am — 11:00 pm Monday 18th nouveau : Une histoire de
Art Nouveau : 9:00 am — 1:00 pm de L’École au Musée la joaillerie, de Louis XIV
Astonishing Jewels The Lapidary’s Art 1 – — à l’Art déco
— Discovery: 9:00 am — 1:00 pm —
9:00 am — 1:00 pm History and Techniques Accéder à la création 7:00 pm — 8:00 pm
Découvrir les pierres — de Van Cleef & Arpels Live Online Conversation
— 10:30 am — 1:00 pm — Les quatre saisons
The Engagement Ring: 9:00 am — 1:00 pm du jardin joaillier
A Love Story Reconnaître les pierres —
— —
2:30 pm — 4:30 pm
Trying Out the Jeweler’s
Techniques
— Course From French Jewels to Japanese Lacquer

14 The Bulletin of L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts 15 September – December 2021


Schedule September — December 2021

November
Tuesday 2nd Friday 5th Monday 15th 2:30 pm — 4:30 pm Friday 19th Tuesday 23rd
10:00 am — 12:00 pm 10:00 am — 12:00 pm 10:00 am — 12:30 pm À la découverte de la 9:00 am — 1:00 pm 9:00 am — 11:00 am
Workshop for ages Workshop for ages Un amour de bijou : technique de la maquette Amulettes et symboles The Diamond:
6 to 8 6 to 8 la bague de fiançailles en joaillerie précieux Gemological Exception
Couronnes et épées Crée ton bijou — — — —
— — 2:30 pm — 5:00 pm 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm 9:00 am — 1:00 pm 9:00 am — 1:00 pm
10:00 am — 12:00 pm 12:00 pm – 1:00 pm First Steps into Jewelry Amulets and Precious Having access to Le bijou et les émaux
Workshop for ages Live Online Conversation — Symbols Van Cleef & Arpels grand feu
12 to 16 From Paris to the World: 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm — creations —
Découvrir le monde the Glory of Art Deco Entering the 7:00 pm — 8:00 pm — 9:00 am — 1:00 pm
des pierres — Van Cleef & Arpels Live Online Conversation 9:00 am — 1:00 pm The Lapidary’s Art 2 –
— 9:30 am — 4:30 pm Universe Les secrets du dessin Ruby, a Fiery Initiation:
2:00 pm — 4:00 pm Du Chef Cuisinier au joaillier and Bewitching Stone Cutting a Colored Stone
Workshop for ages Maître Joaillier : les Tuesday 16th — —
9 to 11 gestes de l’excellence, 9:00 am — 1:00 pm Thursday 18th 2:30 pm — 4:30 pm 2:30 pm — 5:00 pm
Crée ta pendule en partenariat avec Du bijou français 9:00 am — 1:00 pm Pratique des techniques Around the World in Jewelry
précieuse L’École Ritz Escoffier à la laque japonaise From Design to Mock-up joaillières —
— — — — — 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm
2:00 pm — 4:00 pm 5:00 pm — 6:00 pm 9:00 am — 1:00 pm 9:00 am — 1:00 pm 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm Jewelry and « Grand Feu »
Workshop for ages Live Online Conversation Le rubis, pierre ardente Reconnaître les pierres Il était une fois Enameling
12 to 16 From Paris to the World: et envoûtante — le dessin joaillier —
La maquette, première the Glory of Art Deco — 12:00 pm — 1:00 pm — 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm
vision d’un bijou 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm Live Online Conversation 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm A History of Jewelry, from
en volume Tuesday 9th Gold and Jewelry, The Secrets of Jewelry La fascination Louis XIV to Art déco
— 7:00 pm — 8:30 pm from Antiquity to Design du diamant 1 : —
7:00 pm — 8:30 pm Les bijoux d’artistes the Renaissance Princes — histoire et légendes 7:00 pm — 8:30 pm
Les bijoux d’artistes du modernisme — 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm Les bijoux d’artistes
de l’Art nouveau aux aux années 80 5:00 pm — 7:30 pm Du projet en cire aux Monday 22nd des années 90 aux
années 50 Premiers pas en joaillerie techniques de serti 9:00 am — 1:00 pm grands maîtres de l’art
Wednesday 10th — — The Lapidary’s Art 1 – contemporain
Thursday 4th 2:00 pm — 4:00 pm 7:00 pm — 8:30 pm 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm Discovery: —
2:00 pm — 4:00 pm Workshop for ages Les bijoux d’artistes Entrer dans l’univers History and Techniques
Workshop for ages 6 to 8 à travers la collection de Van Cleef & Arpels —
9 to 11 Crée ton bijou muséale de Diane Venet — 10:00 am — 12:30 pm
Fabrique ta boîte à trésors — 7:00 pm — 8:00 pm The Engagement Ring:
— 2:30 pm — 4:30 pm Wednesday 17th Live Online Conversation A Love Story
5:00 pm — 6:00 pm Workshop for ages 9:00 am — 11:00 am The Secrets of Jewelry —
Live Online Conversation 12 to 16 Introduction Design 2:30 pm — 4:30 pm
Paris, aux origines de l’Art Découvrir le monde à la gemmologie — The Diamond’s Magic:
déco dans le monde des pierres — Symbols & Legends
— — 9:00 am — 11:00 am —
2:30 pm — 4:30 pm Trying your hand at 2:30 pm — 4:30 pm
Workshop for ages Japanese Trying Out the Jeweler’s
12 to 16 Urushi Lacquer Techniques
La maquette, première — —
vision d’un bijou 9:00 am — 1:00 pm 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm
en volume Art Nouveau : Or et Bijoux,
— Astonishing Jewels – de l’Antiquité aux princes
From School to Museum de la Renaissance
— —

16 The Bulletin of L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts 17 September – December 2021


Schedule September — December 2021

November December
Wednesday 24th Friday 26th Tuesday 30th Wednesday 1st Friday 3rd Tuesday 7th
9:00 am — 11:00 am 9:00 am — 12:00 pm 9:00 am — 11:00 pm 9:00 am — 11:00 am 9:00 am — 1:00 pm 9:00 am — 1:00 pm
Insolites bijoux The Gouaché in High Pratique de la laque Art Nouveau Amulettes et symboles The Lapidary’s Art 2 –
Art nouveau Jewelry 1 – The Light japonaise Urushi Astonishing Jewels précieux Initiation: Cutting
— — — — — a Colored Stone
9:00 am — 1:00 pm 9:00 am — 10:00 pm 9:00 am — 1:00 pm 9:00 am — 1:00 pm 9:00 am — 1:00 pm —
La fascination L’art lapidaire 2 – Le rubis, pierre ardente Découvrir les pierres Ruby, a Fiery 9:00 am — 1:00 pm
du diamant 2 : Initiation : taille d’une et envoûtante — and Bewitching Stone Fascinating Diamonds 2:
science et gemmologie pierre de couleur — 9:00 am — 1:00 pm — Science and Gemology
— — 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm From French Jewels 9:00 am — 1:00 pm —
9:00 am — 1:00 pm 9:00 am — 1:00 pm Gold and Jewelry, to Japanese Lacquer Having access to 9:00 am — 1:00 pm
Accéder à la création Recognize the Gemstones from Antiquity to — Van Cleef & Arpels Le bijou et les émaux
de Van Cleef & Arpels — the Renaissance Princes 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm creations grand feu
— 2:30 pm — 5:00 pm — Amulets and — —
2:30 pm — 4:30 pm Un tour du monde du bijou 5:00 pm — 7:30 pm Precious Symbols 2:30 pm — 4:30 pm 2:30 pm — 5:00 pm
Introduction to Setting — Premiers pas en joaillerie — La Magie du Diamant : Around the World
— 2:30 pm — 5:30 pm — 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm Symboles & Légendes in Jewelry
2:30 pm — 6:30 pm The Gouaché in High 7:00 pm — 8:30 pm Du dessin à la maquette — —
Une histoire de la joaillerie, Jewelry 2 – The Color Les bijoux d’artistes 2:30 pm — 4:30 pm 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm
de Louis XIV à l’Art déco sous l’angle des grandes Thursday 2nd Pratique des techniques A History of Jewelry,
Monday 29th collections : idéale 9:00 am — 11:00 am joaillières from Louis XIV
Thursday 25th 10:00 am — 12:30 pm (Clo Fleiss), baroque Discover the Technique to Art Deco
9:00 am — 12:00 pm Un amour de bijou : (Yves Gastou) of the Mock-up in Jewelry Monday 6th —
Le Gouaché en Haute la bague de fiançailles et organique (Solange — 9:00 am — 1:00 pm 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm
Joaillerie 1 – La lumière — Thierry de Saint-Rapt) 9:00 am — 1:00 pm The Lapidary’s Art 1 – Jewelry and « Grand Feu »
— 2:30 pm — 5:00 pm — Il était une fois Discovery : Enameling
9:00 am — 1:00 pm First Steps into Jewelry le dessin joaillier History and Techniques —
Discover the Gemstones — — —
— 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm 9:00 am — 1:00 pm 10:00 am — 12:30 pm
9:00 am — 1:00 pm Entering the Reconnaître les pierres The Engagement Ring:
L’art lapidaire 1 – Van Cleef & Arpels — A Love Story
Découverte : Universe 2:30 pm — 4:30 pm —
histoire & gestes — Initiation au sertissage 2:30 pm — 4:30 pm
— — Trying Out the Jeweler’s
2:30 pm — 5:30 pm 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm Techniques
Le Gouaché en Haute Entrer dans l’univers —
Joaillerie 2 – La couleur de Van Cleef & Arpels 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm
— — Fascinating Diamonds 1:
2:30 pm — 6:30 pm History and Legends
Once Upon A Time There —
Was Jewelry Design 2:30 pm — 6:30 pm
— Or et Bijoux,
de l’Antiquité aux princes
de la Renaissance

Course Introduction to Setting Course From Design to Mock-up

18 The Bulletin of L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts 19 September – December 2021


Schedule September — December 2021

December
Wednesday 8th Friday 10th 2:30 pm — 4:30 pm
9:00 am — 11:00 am 9:00 am — 12:00 pm Workshop for ages
Le Diamant : The Gouaché in High 12 to 16
Une exception Jewelry 1 – The Light La maquette, première
gemmologique — vision d’un bijou en volume
— 9:00 am — 10:00 pm
9:00 am — 1:00 pm L’art lapidaire 2 – Thursday 16th
Insolites bijoux Initiation : taille 1:00 pm — 2:00 pm
Art nouveau : d’une pierre de couleur LIVE guided tour
de L’École au Musée — Exhibition
— 9:00 am — 1:00 pm Lacloche Jewelers
9:00 am — 1:00 pm Recognize the Gemstones
Accéder à la création — Friday 17th
de Van Cleef & Arpels 2:30 pm — 5:00 pm 2:00 am — 3:00 am
— Un tour du monde (Paris time)
2:30 pm — 6:30 pm du bijou 9:00 am — 10:00 am
From the Wax Project to — (Hong Kong time)
the Setting Techniques 2:30 pm — 5:30 pm 8:00 pm — 9:00 pm
— The Gouaché in High (Thursday 16th,
2:30 pm — 6:30 pm Jewelry 2 – The Color New York time)
Une histoire de LIVE guided tour
la joaillerie, de Louis XIV Wednesday 15th Exhibition
à l’Art déco 2:00 pm — 4:00 pm Lacloche Jewelers
Workshop for ages
Thursday 9th 9 to 11 9:30 am — 16:30 pm
9:00 am — 11:00 am Fabrique ta boîte From the Chef to the
Introduction to Gemology à trésors Master Jeweler: Hands-On
— — Excellence, in Partnership
9:00 am — 12:00 pm 2:30 pm — 4:30 pm with the Ecole Ritz
Le Gouaché en Haute Workshop for ages Escoffier
Joaillerie 1 – La lumière 12 to 16 —
— Découvrir le monde
9:00 am — 1:00 pm des pierres
L’art lapidaire 1 – —
Découverte :
histoire & gestes

2:30 pm — 5:30 pm
Le gouaché en Haute
Joaillerie 2 – La couleur

2:30 pm — 6:30 pm
Once Upon A Time There
Was Jewelry Design

Course Discover the Gemstones Course Jewelry and « Grand Feu » Enameling

20 The Bulletin of L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts 21 September – December 2021


List of Courses and Workshops

Introduction Art History of Jewelry


The courses, workshops Around the World First Steps Art Nouveau: A History Entering the
and conversations are given in Jewelry into Jewelry Astonishing Jewels of Jewelry, Van Cleef & Arpels
in French or English, please
— 2h30 / 100€ — — 2h30 / 100€ — — 2h / 100€ — from Louis XIV Universe
refer to the language indicated
for each proposed date. Tuesday 21st September, Monday 13th September, Wed. 22nd September,
to Art Deco — 4h / 200€ —
in English in English in French — 4h / 200€ — Monday 13th September,
This program might
Friday 24 September,
th
Tuesday 14 September,
th
Wed. 13 October,
th Tuesday 21st September, in English
change depending
on the health situation. in French in French in English in English Thursday 16th September,
Tuesday 19 October,
th
Monday 11 October,
th
Wed. 24 November,
th Wed. 22 September,
nd in French
in English in English in French in French Monday 11th October,
Friday 22nd October, Tuesday 12th October, Wed. 1st December, Tuesday 19th October, in French
in French in English in English in English Wed. 13th October,
Tuesday 23 November,
rd
Monday 15 November,
th Wed. 20th October, in English
in English in English Art Nouveau: in French Monday 15th November,
Friday 26th November, Tuesday 16th November, Astonishing Jewels: Tuesday 23rd November, in English
in French in French From School in English Thursday 18th November,
Tuesday 7 December,
th
Monday 29 November,
th to Museum Wed. 24th November, in French
in English in English — 4h / 200€ — in French Monday 29th November,
Friday 10th December, Tuesday 30th November, Wed. 15th September, Tuesday 7th December, in English
in French in French in English in English Thursday 2nd December,
Wed. 20 October,
th Wed. 8th December, in French
The Engagement in English in French
Ring: A Love Story Wed. 17th November, Once Upon
— 2h30 / 100€ — in English Amulets and A Time There Was
Course The Engagement Ring:
Monday 13th Septembre, Wed. 8th December, Precious Symbols Jewelry Design
A Love Story
In French in French — 4h / 200€ — — 4h / 200€ —
Monday 20th September, Wed. 15th September, Tuesday 14th September,
in English Gold and Jewelry, in English in English
Monday 11th October, from Antiquity Friday 17th September, Thursday 16th September,
in French to the Renaissance in French in French
Princes Friday 15th October, Wed. 13th October,
Monday 18th October,
in English — 4h / 200€ — in French in French
— 8 participants max. — Wed. 17th November, Thursday 21st October,
Monday 15th November,
in English Tuesday 14th September, in English in English
in English Friday 19th November, Friday 19th November,
Tuesday 22nd November,
in French Monday 20th September, in French in French
in French Wed. 1st December, Thursday 25th November,
Monday 29th November,
in English Tuesday 12th October, in English in English
in English Friday 3rd December, Thursday 2nd December,
Monday 6th December,
in English Monday 18th October, in French in French
in French Thursday 9th December,
Tuesday 16th November, in English
in English
Monday 22nd November, Course Cycle — Artists Jewelry
in French
Every Tuesday in November
Tuesday 30th November, from 7:00 pm to 8:30 pm
in English Registration to the entire cycle only,
Course A History of Jewelry, Monday 6th December, 250 € for 5 courses, in French
from Louis XIV to Art Deco in French

22 The Bulletin of L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts 23 September – December 2021


List of Courses and Workshops

The World of Gemstones Savoir-Faire


Introduction Discover Fascinating Trying Out Introduction The Gouaché
to Gemology the Gemstones Diamonds 2: Science the Jeweler’s to Setting in High Jewelry 2 –
— 2h / 100€ — — 4h / 200€ — and Gemology Techniques — 2h / 100€ — The Color
Thursday 21st October, Wed. 15th September, — 4h / 200€ — — 2h / 100€ — Wed. 22nd September, — 3h / 200€ —
in English in French — 6 participants max. — Friday 17th September, in English Thursday 23rd September,
Wed. 17th November, Thursday 23rd September, Wed. 22nd September, in French Thursday 21st October, in French
in French in English in French Monday 20th September, in French Friday 24th September,
Thursday 9 December,
th
Wed. 13 October,
th Tuesday 19th October, in English Wed. 24 November,
th in English
in English in French in English Friday 15th October, in French Thursday 21st October,
Thursday 25th November, Wed. 24th November, in French Thursday 2nd December, in French
The Diamond’s in English in French Monday 18th October, in French Friday 22nd October,
Magic: Symbols Wed. 1 December,
st Tuesday 7th December, in English in English
& Legends in French in English Friday 19th November, Trying your hand Thursday 25th November,
— 2h / 100€ — in French at Japanese in French
Friday 20th September, Ruby, a Fiery Monday 22nd November, Urushi Lacquer Friday 26th November,
Recognize in English in English
in English
the Gemstones and Bewitching — 2h / 100€ —
Friday 15th October, Stone Friday 3th December, Wed. 15th September, Thursday 9th December,
— 4h / 200€ — in French in French
in French — 4h / 200€ — in English
Thursday 16th September, Monday 6th December, Friday 10th December,
Monday 22nd November, Tuesday 14th September, Tuesday 12th October,
in French in English in English
in English in French in French
Friday 24th September,
Friday 3rd December, Friday 17th September, Wed. 17th November,
in English
in French in English Discover the in English From Design
Wed. 20th October, Technique of the Tuesday 30 November,
th to Mock-up
in French Tuesday 12th October,
The Diamond: in French
Mock-up in Jewelry in French — 4h / 200€ —
A gemological Friday 22 October,
th
— 2h / 100€ —
Friday 15 October,
th Thursday 16th September,
in English
exception in English Wed. 12 October,
th
The Gouaché in French
— 2h / 100€ — Thursday 18th November, in English in High Jewelry 1 –
Tuesday 16th November, Wed. 13th October,
in French
Tuesday 18th October in French Wed. 17th November, The Light in French
In French Friday 26th November, in French — 3h / 200€ —
Friday 19th November, Wed. 18th October,
in English
Tuesday 21 September,
st
in English Thursday 2nd December, — 5 participants max. — in English
in English Thursday 2nd December, in English
Tuesday 30th November, Thursday 23rd September, Wed. 1st December,
in French
Tuesday 23rd November, in French in French in French
in English Friday 10th December,
in English Friday 3rd December, Friday 24th September,
Wed. 8th December, in English in English
in French Thursday 21st October,
Fascinating in French
Diamonds 1: Friday 22nd October,
History and Legends in English
— 4h / 200€ —
Thursday 25th November,
— 6 participants max. —
in French
Friday 17th September,
Friday 26th November,
in French
in English
Tuesday 12th October
Thursday 9th December,
in English
in French
Friday 19th November,
Friday 10th December,
in French
in English
Monday 6th December,
in English Course Introduction to Gemology

24 The Bulletin of L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts 25 September – December 2021


List of Courses and Workshops

Savoir-Faire Workshops for Young People


From the Wax The Lapidary’s Art 1 From the Chef to
Project to the – Discovery: History the Master Jeweler: Workshops
Setting Techniques and Techniques Hands-On Excellence, available
— 4h / 200€ — — 4h / 200€ — in Partnership with in French only Make Your Own
the Ritz Escoffier Crowns and Swords
Thursday 16th September, Tuesday 21st September, (from ages 6 to 8) Precious Clock
in French in English School 2h — 15 € (from ages 9 to 11)
— 1 day — Wed. 29th September
Wed. 20 October,
th
Thursday 23 September,
rd
Tuesday 2nd November Wed. 20th October
(from 9:30am to 4:30 pm) Tuesday 2nd November
in English in French
— 420€ —
Thursday 18th November, Monday 18th October,
Friday 5th November,
in French in English
in French
Wed. 8th December, Thursday 21st October,
Friday 17th December,
in English in French The Mock-up:
in English
Discovering
Monday 22nd November, First Sculptural Vision
From French the World of Gems
in English
(from ages 12 to 16) of the Jewel
Jewels to Japanese Thursday 25th November, Having access to (from ages 12 to 16)
Lacquer in French Van Cleef & Arpels Wed. 29th September
Monday 19th July
creations Wed. 20th October
— 4h / 200€ — Monday 6th December, Wed. 29th September
Tuesday 2nd November
in English — 4h / 350€ — Tuesday 2nd November
Tuesday 14th September, Wed. 10th November
Wed. 10th November
in French Thursday 9th December, Friday 17th September, Wed. 15th December
Wed. 15th December
in French In English
Wed. 13th October,
in English Wed. 22nd September,
The Lapidary’s Art 2 In French
Tuesday 16 November,
th

in French – Initiation: Cutting a Friday 15th October,


Wed. 1st December, Colored Stone In English Make Your Own
in English — 4h / 200€ — Wed. 20th October, Treasure Chest
In French (from ages 9 to 11)
Friday 24th September,
in French Friday 19 November,
th Course Make Your Own Treasure Chest Thursday 4th November
Jewelry and In English Wed. 15th December
« Grand Feu » Tuesday 19th October,
Enameling in English Wed. 24th November,
In French
— 4h / 200€ — Friday 22nd October,
in French Friday 3rd December,
Tuesday 21st September, In English
in French and in English Tuesday 23 November,
rd

in English Wed. 8th December,


Tuesday 19 October,
th
In French
in French and in English Friday 26th November, Create Your Jewel
in French (from ages 6 to 8)
Tuesday 23 November,
rd

in French and in English Tuesday 7th December, Friday 5th November


in English Course Make Your OwnTreasure Chest
Wed. 10th November
Tuesday 7th December,
in French and in English Friday 10 December,
th

in French

Practical information Dates and registration: Practical information Dates and registration:

26 The Bulletin of L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts 27 September – December 2021


Oct. 14th 2021 – Feb. 14th 2022

EXHIBITION
DESIGNING
JEWELS
Sometimes reduced to a few pencil lines thrown on a
sheet of paper, but often taking on the appearance of
a veritable work of art, rich in color and nuance,
drawings or designs of jewelry are unique in that they
touch us by their beauty, as much as they teach us
about the process of creating a piece of jewelry.

Little studied and published, even more rarely exhi-


bited, jewelry designs remain relatively unknown to
the general public. Nevertheless, the jewelry design
plays an essential role, serving as the reference point
for all those involved in the creation of a jewel. Since
the Renaissance, the drawing constitutes the first, and
indeed, one might say the primordial step, in that it
gives life to the idea, and allows the idea to be realized.

It is to this long neglected object—a technical tool


serving the artisans involved in the fabrication of the
jewelry but also a sensitive work—which L’ÉCOLE,
School of Jewelry Arts wishes to pay tribute, by
shining light on its history, technique, authors and
status. Following the launch in 2018 of a research
project into jewelry design and the development of a course on this unique sub-
ject, L’ÉCOLE is proud to organize the first exhibition devoted to this theme,
explored from a wide variety of perspectives. The selected works broadly cover
the 19th century, beginning in the 1760s and ending with the First World War,
and were executed by numerous artists and designers, either famous or ano-
nymous, illustrating a great diversity of techniques and uses. All come from the
Van Cleef & Arpels Jewelry Culture Fund, set up for research, presentation and
educational purposes.

By bringing the jewelry drawing out of the shadows for this exhibition, L’ÉCOLE,
School of Jewelry Arts is fulfilling its mission of sharing jewelry culture.

Practical information From October 14th, 2021 Free admission by


to February 14th, 2022 reservation only on www.
Tuesday to Saturday, lecolevancleefarpels.com
from 12:00 pm to 7:00 pm

René Lalique (1860-1945), Design of “Vestal Virgins” tiara

28 The Bulletin of L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts 29 Pencil, ink and gouache on vegetal paper B F K – Rives, circa 1900
Van Cleef & Arpels Jewelry Culture Fund
Exhibition Designing Jewels Art Book

Brédillard Studio - Hatot


Design of a
neoclassical-style châtelaine
Gouache on plastic material,
mounted on brown board,
circa 1911. Van Cleef & Arpels
Jewelry Culture Fund

“Designing Jewels” Book


The exhibition will be
accompanied by the publication
of a book co-published
by Norma and L’ÉCOLE,
School of Jewelry Arts.
Maison Mellerio-Borgnis
(1858-circa 1914)
Design of the front of a

“raindrop” bodice ornament
Reproduction [Original: The Authors:
Pencil, ink and gouache Guillaume Glorieux,
on tracing paper] circa 1865. Director of Education
Van Cleef & Arpels and Research at L’ÉCOLE,
Jewelry Culture Fund School of Jewelry Arts

Michaël Decrossas
René Lalique (1860-1945) & Stéphanie Desvaux,
Design of a “Maenad “exhibition curators:
and Sileni” bodice ornament Designing Jewels’’.
Pencil, ink and gouache
on vegetal paper B F K – Rives,
circa 1900. Van Cleef & Arpels —
Jewelry Culture Fund Format: 220 x 280 mm
Nomber of pages: 192
Nombre d’illustrations: approx. 130
Hardback cover
Language:
bilingual French-English edition
Price: €39
Publication date: Fall 2021

On left: Brédillard Studio - Hatot


Studio Brédillard - Hatot, Design of a pendant
Design of a châtelaine with chain
Pencil, ink and gouache on board, Gouache on board, circa 1911,
circa 1911. Van Cleef & Arpels Van Cleef & Arpels
Jewelry Culture Fund Jewelry Culture Fund

30 The Bulletin of L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts 31 September – December 2021


L’ÉCOLE’s Live Online Conversations

ONLINE
Our Conversations are broadcast live from Paris or Hong Kong, and given
October
The Four Seasons of the Jewelry Garden
With Pascal Garbe, Garden Specialist and Author
in French and English, with simultaneous interpretation in Cantonese & Paul Paradis, Art Historian, Specialist in
and Mandarin. Free Live Online Conversations, by registration. Decorative Arts and Jewelry, Teacher at L’ÉCOLE,
School of Jewelry Arts

Wednesday, October 20th, in French
September at 7:00 pm (Paris time)
at 1:00 am (Hong Kong time on Thursday 21st)
at 1:00 pm (New York time)
The Secret Language of Flowers Thursday, October 21st , in English
With Paul Paradis, Art Historian, Specialist with simultaneous interpretation available
in Decorative Arts and Jewelry, Teacher in Cantonese and Mandarin
at L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts at 10:00 am (Paris time)
& Gislain Aucremanne, Art Historian, antique at 4:00 pm (Hong Kong time)
jewelry Specialist and Conferences Project Van Cleef & Arpels at 4:00 am (New York time)
Orchid clip, 1927
Manager at L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts Thursday, October 21st, in English
Van Cleef & Arpels Collection,
— Patrick Gries at 7:00 pm (Paris time)
Wednesday, September 22nd, in French © Van Cleef & Arpels SA at 1:00 am (Hong Kong time on Friday 22nd)
at 7:00 pm (Paris time) at 1:00 pm (New York time)
at 1:00 am (Hong Kong time on Thursday 23rd) —
at 1:00 pm (New York time) This online Conversation will be broadcast live from
Thursday, September 23rd, in English the FLORAE exhibition, organized by Van Cleef & Arpels
with simultaneous interpretation available with Mika Ninagawa, at the Hôtel d’Evreux, Place
in Cantonese and Mandarin Vendôme (from September 10th to November 14th, 2021).
at 10:00 am (Paris time)
at 4:00 pm (Hong Kong time)
at 4:00 am (New York time)
November
Thursday, September 23rd, in English
at 7:00 pm (Paris time) From Paris to the world:
at 1:00 am (Hong Kong time on Friday 24th) the Glory of Art Deco
at 1:00 pm (New York time) With Inezita Gay-Eckel, Jewelry Historian
— and Teacher at L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts
Van Cleef & Arpels This online Conversation will be broadcast live from & Gislain Aucremanne, Art Historian, antique
Chrysanthemum clip, 1937 jewelry Specialist and Conferences Project Manager
Van Cleef & Arpels Collection,
the FLORAE exhibition, organized by Van Cleef & Arpels
Patrick Gries with Mika Ninagawa, at the Hôtel d’Evreux, Place Vendôme at L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts
© Van Cleef & Arpels SA (from September 10th to November 14th, 2021). —
Thursday, November 4th, in French
Lacloche at 5:00 pm (Paris time)
Cigarette case, at 12:00 am (Hong Kong time)
gold and enamel, 1925. at 12:00 pm (New York time)
Made by the Langlois workshop.
LA Collection Privée. Friday, November 5th, in English
David Fraga Photography. with simultaneous interpretation available
in Cantonese and Mandarin
at 12:00 pm (Paris time),
at 7:00 pm (Hong Kong time)
at 7:00 am (New York time)
Friday, November 5th, in English
at 5:00 pm (Paris time),
at 12:00 am (Hong Kong time)
at 12:00 pm (New York time)

This online Conversation will be broadcast live from
the GemGenève fair.

32 The Bulletin of L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts 33 September – December 2021


L’ÉCOLE’s Live Online Conversations L’ÉCOLE Asia Pacific

November
LACLOCHE
EXHIBITION
The Secrets of Jewelry Design
With Marina Fulchiron, Jewelry Designer
and Teacher at L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts

TRAVELS TO
& Inezita Gay-Eckel, Jewelry Historian
and Teacher at L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts

Wednesday, November 17th, in French

HONG KONG!
at 7:00 pm (Paris time)
at 2:00 am (Hong Kong time on Thursday 18th)
at 1:00 pm (New York time)
Thursday, November 18th, in English
René Lalique (1860-1945)
Design of a “Hortensias” tiara with simultaneous interpretation available
Pencil, ink and gouache in Cantonese and Mandarin The Maison Lacloche was one of Paris’ celebrated jewelry houses from the Belle
on vegetal paper, B F K – Rives at 12:00 pm (Paris time) Époque period to the 1960s.
Van Cleef & Arpels
at 7:00 pm (Hong Kong time) Established on the rue de la Paix in 1901, it also had boutiques in Madrid and
Jewelry Culture Fund
at 6:00 am (New York time) London, as well as branches in Nice, Biarritz, San Sebastián, Cannes and Deauville.
Thursday, November 18th, in English Lacloche Frères, and later Jacques Lacloche, created jewelry for royalty: Queen
at 7:00 pm (Paris time) Victoria of Spain, Edward VII of England, the kings of Greece and Siam, as well as
at 2:00 am (Hong Kong time on Friday 19th) for aristocratic figures such as the Duchess of Westminster, and even Hollywood
at 1:00 pm (New York time) stars like Grace Kelly.
— After a first presentation at L’ÉCOLE in Paris in Fall 2019, the exhibition “Lacloche
This online Conversation will be broadcast live from Jewelers” now travels to L’ÉCOLE Asia Pacific in Hong Kong.
the “Designing Jewels” exhibition at L’ÉCOLE in Paris. Through jewelry, clocks and vanity cases—the Lacloche specialty—as well as archi-
val documents, the retrospective will illustrate various trends, including the
naturalism of Art Nouveau and the penchant for the Far East during the Roaring
December Twenties, the modernism of Art Deco, and the charmingly seductive creations
of the 1950s.

LIVE Guided Tour of the


“Lacloche Jewelers” Exhibition Discover 5 Key Pieces
of the Exhibition:
With Nicolas Luchsinger, President of
Van Cleef & Arpels Asia Pacific, Director
Ladies pendant-watch in sculpted
of the Heritage Collection
rock crystal, gold, platinum, pearls,
& an Art Historian and Teacher from
diamonds, miniature painted
L’ÉCOLE Asia Pacific
on alabaster, signed Paillet, dial

covered with facetted amethysts,
Lacloche Thursday, December 16th , in English
movement by Vacheron Constantin.
Bracelet with buff-top rubies, with simultaneous interpretation available
diamonds, onyx, platinum Made by the Verger workshop for
in French, Cantonese and Mandarin
LA Collection Privée Lacloche Frères. 1908. Vacheron
© 2019 Christie’s Images at 12:00 pm (Paris time),
Constantin Heritage.
Limited. at 7:00 pm (Hong Kong time)
In addition to the refined beauty
at 6:00 am (New York time)
of the setting, one can appreciate
Friday, December 17th, in English
the charming neoclassical style
at 2:00 am (Paris time),
typical of the Belle Époque which
at 9:00 am (Hong Kong time)
miniaturist Fernand Paillet named
at 8:00 pm (on Thursday 16th, New York time)
“Nymphe lutinée par les amours”

(Nymph teased by Cupids).
This online Guided Tour will be broadcast live
from the “Lacloche Jewelers” Exhibition
at L’ÉCOLE Asia-Pacific in Hong Kong

34 The Bulletin of L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts 35 September – December 2021


L’ÉCOLE Asia Pacific

“Japanese Lady and Tree” cigarette Bracelet in gold, enamel, carved rubies,
case in gold and enamel, signed made in 1938 by the Verger workshop
Lacloche Frères Paris. 1925. Made for Jacques Lacloche. Private Collection.
by the atelier Langlois. LA Collection Photo Benjamin Chelly.
Privée. Photo David Fraga. Each link of this bracelet, mounted on a spring,
During the Roaring Twenties, is articulated. The bracelet is a fine example
the world of fashion and accessories of the jeweler’s technical mastery. This inventive
displayed a penchant for the Far and elegant model was highly successful before
East. While Lacloche’s designers the war. Jacques Lacloche also made a version
were influenced by China, they were of it set with carved emeralds and sapphires.
more likely to find the inspiration
for their decorative motifs in
Japanese works of art, whose
poetry they especially appreciated.
Boxes, cigarette cases and vanity
cases were the jeweler’s specialty.

Cuff bracelet in white and yellow gold,


silver and cabochon coral, signed J. Lacloche,
Cannes, 1937. LA Collection Privée.
© Photo Luc Pâris
The stones, mounted on two removable clips,
are interchangeable. Depending on the
wearer’s mood or their outfit, this bracelet cuff
could be adorned with jade, topaz or turquoise
cabochons. Made by Lucien Girard. This is
an example of the bold modernity for which
Jacques Lacloche had a particular fondness.
Bracelet with buff-top rubies, diamonds, onyx, platinum.
LA Collection Privée. © 2019 Christie’s Images Limited.
This bracelet was displayed on the stand of Lacloche Frères
Practical information From November 22nd 2021 To book your visit or to
at the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial
to April 6th 2022 discover the exhibition
Arts in Paris in 1925. The family who purchased this item of jewelry Free admission digitally, visit our website:
on this occasion kept it in their possession until a recent auction. by reservation www.lecolevancleefarpels.
We can admire the mastery of the jeweler: buff-top cabochon rubies L’ÉCOLE Asia Pacific, com/hk/en
(with the pavilion facetted to provide the stone with greater School of Jewelry Arts
brilliance and to reflect the light), the open, articulated mount, K11 MUSEA, Hong Kong
and the millegrain diamond setting.

36 The Bulletin of L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts 37 September – December 2021


Portrait of a Teacher

MARINA
Which courses do you teach?
Do you have a favorite course? I teach the course “Having Access to
Van Cleef & Arpels Creations” which details how Van Cleef & Arpels creative

FULCHIRON
teams design a collection and what their inspirations are.
Since 2019, I have also had the pleasure of participating in the creation
of a new course “Once Upon a Time There Was Jewelry Design” in partnership
with Inezita Gay-Eckel, jewelry historian, and Guillaume Glorieux,
JEWELRY DESIGNER Director of Teaching and Research at L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts.
It is a very rich and ambitious course; it draws on unpublished research
on jewelry design from the 15th century to the present day.
In this class, with Inezita, we play the role of detectives to explore this art
full of mysteries and anonymous artists, while revealing its origins, techniques,
and evolution.
It is also an opportunity to admire previously unpublished designs from
the Van Cleef & Arpels Jewelry Culture Fund. I hope that everyone who comes
to this class will leave with a new perspective on this major art form.

Your next project or the project


you dream of working on? I often work on several projects simultaneously;
jewelry design is the core of my activity as a freelance designer for jewelry
Maisons and professionals.
I am also continuing to research unpublished jewelry designs in preparation
for a Conversation to be given at L’ÉCOLE this fall that will discuss the creative
process and reveal more mysteries.
I’m excited to collaborate as a team on new projects and bring my expertise
and creative vision to the table.
My current wish would be to create new pieces, to travel and to experience
other cultures in order to promote the influence of the jewelry arts in the world.

A word about your professional career?


How did you enter the jewelry world? Before becoming a jewelry designer,
I started with the arts. I studied illustration, engraving and commercial art
at the École Supérieure Estienne.
It was during my last internship that I wished to discover a new artistic
discipline. That’s why I looked for and entered into an internship in jewelry
design at the jeweler Mathon. It was love at first sight! This job brought
together everything I liked to do: creating, drawing, imagining in three
dimensions and finally designing a feminine and precious object.
I fell in love with it hence at the end of the internship I was hired and trained
in this wonderful profession.

When and how did you become a teacher


at L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts? I heard about the reputation
of L’École when I was a designer of high jewelry at Boucheron. I often traveled
to create special orders for foreign clients. I already shared the values of
L’ÉCOLE: the meeting of cultures, openness to the world, expertise in jewelry
design and gems.
A side note: the windows of the drawing studio overlooked Place Vendôme
and the Hôtel de Ségur where L’ÉCOLE is located. I was in awe of the richness René Lalique (1860-1945)
of the program offered and was very attracted by the opportunity to pass “Peacock” bodice ornament.
Circa 1898-1900 Gold, opals,
on my knowledge. diamonds and enamel
So very naturally I introduced myself to L’ÉCOLE in 2019 when I became Calouste Gulbenkian Museum,
a freelance designer to collaborate together. Lisbon. Photo Carlos Azevedo

38 The Bulletin of L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts 39 September – December 2021


Portrait of a Teacher Portrait of a Student

ZHAO
And to finish, could you tell us about
your favorite jewelry design? I would like to tell you about the one who surely
inspired me to do this job: René Lalique.
I first discovered Lalique’s designs during an exhibition at the Paris Museum
of Decorative Arts in 1992. I was dazzled by the composition, the lively pencil LANDSCAPE DESIGNER
line, the colors of the opals, the translucent enamels and the precious
materials. At that time, I was a student of color illustration and I had before
my eyes a drawing, a work of art, a remarkable illustration, a jewelry design!
Here is the design of a Lalique corsage ornament representing a majestic
peacock that perfectly illustrates the mastery of jewelry design: a clever mix
of beauty and innovation with soft lines, with an asymmetrical composition
typical of Art Nouveau.
But what I particularly like about his designs is that they seem to come alive,
his line is quick and precise. Lalique put his energy and genius into each
of his creations.
This is one of the many artists we will discover together in the next
“Once Upon a Time There Was Jewelry Design” class!

How did you discover L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts? I knew about
L’ÉCOLE from the beginning, just after its creation in 2012 in a rather
roundabout way. While I was living in Paris, a Chinese friend living in China first
told me about L’ÉCOLE created by Van Cleef & Arpels. At the time he wanted
to follow courses at L’ÉCOLE and needed information. That’s how my contact
with L’ÉCOLE started.

Which courses did you take, and which one did you prefer? I have taken
almost all the courses at L’ÉCOLE, whether it be history of jewelry, gemology,
or savoir-faire.
My favorite courses are the history of jewelry courses, regardless of the period,
the course “Having Access to Van Cleef & Arpels Creations" and the course
“Jewelry and Grand Feu Enameling”.

What have the different courses you have taken brought you?
The history of jewelry courses allowed me to discover the different styles
according to historical periods, while the savoir-faire courses helped me
to discover the process of creation and realization of a piece of high jewelry.
And of course, I also had some great encounters during the classes
with the teachers and participants!

Has your experience at L’ÉCOLE changed your taste or your way


René Lalique (1860-1945)
of looking at jewelry? Yes, of course! Thanks to the different courses I have
Design for “Peacock” taken at L’ÉCOLE, I now know how to look at a piece of jewelry, through the
bodice ornament stones it is composed of, the metal structure, the stone setting, the creation…
Circa 1898-1900. What interests me the most is to be able to observe antique jewelry,
Calouste Gulbenkian
Museum, Lisbon
which is what L’ÉCOLE provides through its courses and exhibitions!

40 The Bulletin of L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts 41 September – December 2021


Notes
Ce Bulletin a été achevé d’imprimer en septembre 2021
sur les presses de l’imprimeur Manufacture d’Histoires Deux-Ponts,
5 rue des Condamines, 38320 Bresson
© L’École Van Cleef & Arpels 22 Place Vendôme 75001 Paris
SASU au capital de 3.000.000  € – RCS Paris B 433 901 485
L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts
31, rue Daniel Casanova, Paris 1er
+33 (0)1 70 70 38 40
@lecolevancleefarpels
#lecolevancleefarpels

lecolevancleefarpels.com

The mission of L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts is to share the culture


of jewelry with a large and varied audience, both in France and abroad.
By offering hands-on à la carte classes taught by passionate experts,
videos and books, talks and exhibitions, L’ÉCOLE welcomes
the public to learn about the savoir faire of jewelry-making techniques,
the world of precious stones, and the history of jewelry.
There are no prerequisites for education or skills. All our students
need is a desire to learn.

L’ÉCOLE was established in 2012 with the support of Van Cleef & Arpels.

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Courses — Conversations — Exhibitions

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